• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

Status
Not open for further replies.

coopolon

Member
Hmm, something is very wrong with my 5870.

Recently the HDMI cable I use to connect it to my 50 inch Samsung Plasma went bad and I replaced it today.

Now, when I set the resolution to 1080p, the computer thinks everything is okay, but the TV says there is no signal. I tried routing it through my receiver, and again the computer thinks everything is okay but nothing is showing up on the screen. The receiver has a little red light for video signal coming in, and that flashes on and off a few times before staying off.

What is interesting is when I set the resolution to 720p it shows up okay on the TV (directly into the TV or via the receiver, both work.) In addition, 1080p24 and 1080i also work. But no other common resolutions work - like 1280x1024, 800x600, etc.

I uninstalled the drivers (I was on 12.4), reinstalled, didn't fix anything. Then I uninstalled and ran driversweeper. Interestingly, with no display adapter drivers installed, the TV received 800x600 as well as 1280x1024 signals (I couldn't test 1080p without a driver.) But both of these are resolutions that don't work when the drivers are installed. I then installed 12.2 and it has the same problems.

Edit: When installing both 12.4 and 12.2 after installation it said some warnings had come up. This has never happened before. It links to a log for the install and I went to it and I couldn't find any warnings either time.

The obvious suggestion is something is wrong with the new cable, but the fact that 800x600 and 1280x1024 work without drivers but don't work with drivers make me think it's not a cable problem.

Edit 2: To double check the cord I plugged it into my secondary monitor, an IPS236 which is an LCD monitor, not a plasma HDTV, but on there I get 1080p just fine. So there's something wrong with how the driver and my TV are communicating and I don't know how to fix it.
 

ccbfan

Member
Can someone explain 12V+ rails.

I know the CPU and the GPU uses mostly power from the 12V+ rails. How about other things? Things like HHD, SSD, DVD-Drives, Fans, USB and other PCI-E devices like Wireless cards.

I've been using Power calculation websites and they always go by total wattage. Have I done my calculations completely wrong.

Bought a cx430 after seeing that my desired build of

i5 3570K (like OC like to 4.2 Ghz)
AsRock z77 Pro 4
Cooler MAster 212+
Corsair Vengence 8GB
Samsung 830 128 GB
Zalmon Z9
Samsung DVD -RW
Some 7850 Card
Some 1-2 TB Harddrive.

Couldn't get past 300 Watts on load on this and with a 430 Watt PS that's under 70 percent use which is great for efficiency

But if all this stuff uses Rail Watts. That cw430 only has 28*12 = 336. Thats almost 90 percent usage, that's too close for comfort.


Also NewEgg is so much faster than other sites thats I'm spoiled.

I bought a CoolerMaster 212+ from another site last week and its not suppose to be here until Thursday. Holding off on my computer build until this arrives since I want a clean CPU for the heatsink.
 

K' Dash

Member
So, I was reading about the MoBo I bought and it supports someting called Virtu MVP, so I went to youtube and Lucids page and it seems too good to be true, is there a catch to use that ? is somebody here using it? or is it bullshit?
 
Having some major problems here guys.

Windows now refuses to boot on either of my HDD's. Blue screens as soon as it hits "starting Windows" screen.

So I go to re-install it. 98% of the time, after clicking anything to boot from CD, it sits on a black screen and the other 2%, once I get past the "Select your language screen" it tells me "A required CD/DVD driver device driver is missing. If you have a floppy Disk, please insert it now".

I love computers but god-damn I hate them.
 
My Corsair HX650 is modular has 2 PCI-E connectors on it, and comes with 2 cables that each have 2 PCI-E plugs. My graphics card (Gigabyte GTX 670) needs 2 PCI-E power plugs. Is it OK to just use one of the cables and connect both connectors on the same cable, or is it better to use both cables and plug both into the PSU? There's only one 12V rail so I imagine it's all the same either way, right?
 

MooMoo

Member
I almost always use screws paired with rubber washers, since it makes them easier to remove them for cleaning or replacement later. The only exception would be for Xigmatek CPU coolers, which pretty much force you to use the slotted rubber pins.
Okay, so can anyone explain to me how those rubber pins work? I'm kind of in a weird situation and don't openly have access to a drill to put these screws in and no matter how I look at it, these rubber pins are just not secure at all.
 

MrBig

Member
So, I was reading about the MoBo I bought and it supports someting called Virtu MVP, so I went to youtube and Lucids page and it seems too good to be true, is there a catch to use that ? is somebody here using it? or is it bullshit?

The only part that's really practical about it is that it ties the GPU and iGPU together (useful for running displays off the mobo in addition to the GPU), nothing else really matters.
 

MisterNoisy

Member
Okay, so can anyone explain to me how those rubber pins work? I'm kind of in a weird situation and don't openly have access to a drill to put these screws in and no matter how I look at it, these rubber pins are just not secure at all.

You line up the holes on the fan frame with the fan mount holes on the case and then pull the pin through far enough so that the conical section is completely through the fan frame. Hopefully this terrible image helps:

lKIZk.png
 

MooMoo

Member
You line up the holes on the fan frame with the fan mount holes on the case and then pull the pin through far enough so that the conical section is completely through the fan frame. Hopefully this terrible image helps:
Thanks, that picture makes perfect sense but it seems like no matter how hard I push the fan never sits securely. I'll have to go nab a screw and do the extra fan stuff another day.

Edit: Also having issues getting the SSD to fit properly for the Bitfenix Shinobi Window. The adapter case just isn't sliding in and snapping right.
 

n0n44m

Member
My Corsair HX650 is modular has 2 PCI-E connectors on it, and comes with 2 cables that each have 2 PCI-E plugs. My graphics card (Gigabyte GTX 670) needs 2 PCI-E power plugs. Is it OK to just use one of the cables and connect both connectors on the same cable, or is it better to use both cables and plug both into the PSU? There's only one 12V rail so I imagine it's all the same either way, right?

yeah just 1 cable is fine, the other is for SLI/CF setups
 

MrBig

Member
Just tried out adaptive v-sync with my 9600m from the new nvidia whql drivers, works really well and no stuttering/tearing.
 

JonCha

Member
Followed the Maximum PC guide to sorting out my USB for installing Windows, which is done. Turn on machine, says to press any key for boot device and nothing happens.
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Just tried out adaptive v-sync with my 9600m from the new nvidia whql drivers, works really well and no stuttering/tearing.

Between this and running my new 120hz monitor, it's time for me to finally uninstall D3D. I honestly play most of my games in 3D now (LOVE IT), so I'm forced to run v-sync anyways. But I love it's there for 2D.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Okay, so can anyone explain to me how those rubber pins work? I'm kind of in a weird situation and don't openly have access to a drill to put these screws in and no matter how I look at it, these rubber pins are just not secure at all.
You don't need a drill, a screwdriver is fine. Just screwed in 7 of those yesterday.
Between this and running my new 120hz monitor, it's time for me to finally uninstall D3D. I honestly play most of my games in 3D now (LOVE IT), so I'm forced to run v-sync anyways. But I love it's there for 2D.
Why would you use it on a 120hz monitor? I never ever see screen tearing now.
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Why would you use it on a 120hz monitor? I never ever see screen tearing now.

I actually haven't used D3D with it (only got the monitor 10 days ago). But I've kept it installed for "Break in Case of Emergency". But even that's unnecessary now, so it's gone from the hard drive.
 

tigerin

Member
Not at all. Check the builds in the OP. Even the cheapest $500 ones will run everything. It is just a matter of how high you crank settings. And even at the lowest settings, frankly, the games look way better than PS3 or 360 games. People just get caught up in the idea of having the top of the line/best bench marks.

yea, i read the op and thought it's not bad to build a pc then i googled it to find the answer is different. but it good to hear that i don't need atleast 900 dollars to play pc games.

okay, so i added all the parts to my carts on amazon(i have prime) and it came out to about $850 dollars. it's not really out of my budget range but i rather spend less on it(i still need to buy monitor, keyboard, and mouse.) i remembered you told me i can downgrade my rams and graphics if the prices were too high. what should i replace or downgrade to keep my cost low while sustain the ability to play most games at a comfortable performance(framerates, textures, resolutions, etc.?)
 

Archurro

Member
Hey PCGAF, can anyone help me? I'm helping a friend build a PC, and everything is seemingly put together. The problem is when we try to turn it on, the light flashes and then turns off. The fan turns on for a second too, but then turns off. Also, no display is showing up. One last note, whether the PSU is turned on or not, it does the same thing when it's plugged in. Anyone know whats wrong?
 

K' Dash

Member
yea, i read the op and thought it's not bad to build a pc then i googled it to find the answer is different. but it good to hear that i don't need atleast 900 dollars to play pc games.

okay, so i added all the parts to my carts on amazon(i have prime) and it came out to about $850 dollars. it's not really out of my budget range but i rather spend less on it(i still need to buy monitor, keyboard, and mouse.) i remembered you told me i can downgrade my rams and graphics if the prices were too high. what should i replace or downgrade to keep my cost low while sustain the ability to play most games at a comfortable performance(framerates, textures, resolutions, etc.?)

You could put a list of everything you have in your cart, with price, of course, it'll be easier to help you.
 

daviyoung

Banned
Hey PCGAF, can anyone help me? I'm helping a friend build a PC, and everything is seemingly put together. The problem is when we try to turn it on, the light flashes and then turns off. The fan turns on for a second too, but then turns off. Also, no display is showing up. One last note, whether the PSU is turned on or not, it does the same thing when it's plugged in. Anyone know whats wrong?

Which LED on the motherboard flashes? I'm going to assume it's the VGA one and you haven't plugged your GPU into the PSU correctly. I've got no idea why anything would turn on with the PSU off though.
 

Archurro

Member
Which LED on the motherboard flashes? I'm going to assume it's the VGA one and you haven't plugged your GPU into the PSU correctly. I've got no idea why anything would turn on with the PSU off though.

Oh I'm an idiot, I didn't plug the GPU into the PSU. Do I need to use all the pins connectors to power it or can I use just one 6 or 8 pin connector?
 

tigerin

Member
You could put a list of everything you have in your cart, with price, of course, it'll be eaier to help you.

sorry. here is the list with price:

$205 cpu-Intel I5 2500k $205

$100 motherboard-Biostar TZ77B Motherboard $100

$30 ram-Corsair Vengeance Blue 8 GB (2X4 GB) PC3-12800 1600mHz DDR3 240-Pin SDRAM Dual Channel Memory Kit CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B $30

$300 graphic-EVGA GeForce GTX 570 HD Superclocked 1280 MB GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 2DVI/HDMI/Display Port SLI Ready Graphics Card, 012-P3-1573-KR $300

$75 storage-Western Digital Caviar Blue 500 GB SATA III 7200 RPM 16 MB Cache Bulk/OEM Desktop Hard Drive - WD5000AAKX

$38 power supply-Antec VP-450 450 Watt Energy Star Certified Power Supply $38

$40 case-NZXT Technologies Source 210 Computer Case (Black) $40

$21 optical drive-Asus 24xDVD-RW Serial ATA Internal OEM Drive DRW-24B1ST (Black)Budget: Price Range + Country $21
 

K' Dash

Member
sorry. here is the list with price:

$205 cpu-Intel I5 2500k $205

$100 motherboard-Biostar TZ77B Motherboard $100

$30 ram-Corsair Vengeance Blue 8 GB (2X4 GB) PC3-12800 1600mHz DDR3 240-Pin SDRAM Dual Channel Memory Kit CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B $30

$300 graphic-EVGA GeForce GTX 570 HD Superclocked 1280 MB GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 2DVI/HDMI/Display Port SLI Ready Graphics Card, 012-P3-1573-KR $300

$75 storage-Western Digital Caviar Blue 500 GB SATA III 7200 RPM 16 MB Cache Bulk/OEM Desktop Hard Drive - WD5000AAKX

$38 power supply-Antec VP-450 450 Watt Energy Star Certified Power Supply $38

$40 case-NZXT Technologies Source 210 Computer Case (Black) $40

$21 optical drive-Asus 24xDVD-RW Serial ATA Internal OEM Drive DRW-24B1ST (Black)Budget: Price Range + Country $21


I'd say that if you're really short of money, buy a cheaper graphics card, maybe a 6870 for half the price.

Some people would advice you to NOT buy a caviar blue HDD and change it for a black one.
 
Ok, I hooked up the GPU to the PSU, still giving the same problem. The fans also start in the case, PSU, and GPU.

I bet you missed another cable... go through it very carefully. Heatsink and everything is on properly?

Probably something simple you're overlooking. Or if you take a pic we might be able to see something.
 
I'd say that if you're really short of money, buy a cheaper graphics card, maybe a 6870 for half the price.

Some people would advice you to NOT buy a caviar blue HDD and change it for a black one.

I agree completely with this advice. The good thing about the 6870s is that he could always add a second later to Crossfire. I'm running Crossfired 6870s and it works great. Frankly you only need one to max out most games. He could also go with a cheaper GeForce option and SLI them later. Either way, buy one good card now and save some cash and consider adding a second later a year or two down the line when they are cheaper. That seems like a very viable option to me.

Here is a Radeon 6870 on Amazon Prime for $170 ($159 after rebate). That knocks almost $150 off his total price and he will still have a great card which he can upgrade to a second later and end up with an even more powerful PC than that 570.
 

MisterNoisy

Member
sorry. here is the list with price:

$205 cpu-Intel I5 2500k $205

$100 motherboard-Biostar TZ77B Motherboard $100

$30 ram-Corsair Vengeance Blue 8 GB (2X4 GB) PC3-12800 1600mHz DDR3 240-Pin SDRAM Dual Channel Memory Kit CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B $30

$300 graphic-EVGA GeForce GTX 570 HD Superclocked 1280 MB GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 2DVI/HDMI/Display Port SLI Ready Graphics Card, 012-P3-1573-KR $300

$75 storage-Western Digital Caviar Blue 500 GB SATA III 7200 RPM 16 MB Cache Bulk/OEM Desktop Hard Drive - WD5000AAKX

$38 power supply-Antec VP-450 450 Watt Energy Star Certified Power Supply $38

$40 case-NZXT Technologies Source 210 Computer Case (Black) $40

$21 optical drive-Asus 24xDVD-RW Serial ATA Internal OEM Drive DRW-24B1ST (Black)Budget: Price Range + Country $21

I'd say that if you're really short of money, buy a cheaper graphics card, maybe a 6870 for half the price.

Some people would advice you to NOT buy a caviar blue HDD and change it for a black one.

The 448-core 560ti is probably better bang for buck than the 570 if you want to stick with nVidia - the ASUS 3-slot one is $250 after MiR right now.

I couldn't say about the HDD, since I've generally only bought WD Cav Blacks or Spinpoint F3s. I'd ordinarily pick an F3 over the Cav Blue, but I'm not sure what's happening there since the Seagate deal.

I would strongly recommend a better PSU, though - the Neo ECO 520W ($60) or 620W ($70) would be my recommendations at the 'well under $100' price point, just because the specs are right and I've had such good experiences with them.
 

tigerin

Member
I'd say that if you're really short of money, buy a cheaper graphics card, maybe a 6870 for half the price.

Some people would advice you to NOT buy a caviar blue HDD and change it for a black one.

this one?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C8RTTU/?tag=neogaf0e-20

and if this the caviar black you're talking about?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036Q7MV0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

this one is not much more expensive than the 500gb and 750 gbs i saw on there.

also, why caviar black and not blue? and what is the downside of the cheaper radeon graphic card over the $300 geforce one?
 

JonCha

Member
Great. Spammed F8 loading up Windows, chose setup which I didn't want. Forced closed Mac, and now Bootcamp isn't loading. Great! That's tomorrow evening wasted.

What a ball ache.
 
this one?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C8RTTU/?tag=neogaf0e-20

and if this the caviar black you're talking about?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036Q7MV0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

this one is not much more expensive than the 500gb and 750 gbs i saw on there.

also, why caviar black and not blue? and what is the downside of the cheaper radeon graphic card over the $300 geforce one?

Or this if you want to save even a bit more: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047ZGIUK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

$119 after rebate.
 

Archurro

Member
I bet you missed another cable... go through it very carefully. Heatsink and everything is on properly?

Probably something simple you're overlooking. Or if you take a pic we might be able to see something.

Ok, we're probably just going to go through each thing the PSU is connected to and unplug/replug. Is it possible that anything is defective/dead?
Here's a pic too(Sorry for crappy quality):
zM6Q8.jpg
 
this one?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C8RTTU/?tag=neogaf0e-20

and if this the caviar black you're talking about?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036Q7MV0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

this one is not much more expensive than the 500gb and 750 gbs i saw on there.

also, why caviar black and not blue? and what is the downside of the cheaper radeon graphic card over the $300 geforce one?

For current gaming the Radeon will probably max out almost everything the market with your other specs. However it does use a bit more energy. It isn't as powerful as the 570 (obviously) but that is really only a problem a good ways down the line, at least a year or two. For right now, both will run pretty much everything with all the bells and whistles. And at that point in the future when this is no longer true, you can make the decision to add a second card Radeon 6870 or just start running stuff at lower settings. If you add a second card, you will be head to head with the 570's power when/if you need it.
 

tigerin

Member
I agree completely with this advice. The good thing about the 6870s is that he could always add a second later to Crossfire. I'm running Crossfired 6870s and it works great. Frankly you only need one to max out most games. He could also go with a cheaper GeForce option and SLI them later. Either way, buy one good card now and save some cash and consider adding a second later a year or two down the line when they are cheaper. That seems like a very viable option to me.

Here is a Radeon 6870 on Amazon Prime for $170 ($159 after rebate). That knocks almost $150 off his total price and he will still have a great card which he can upgrade to a second later and end up with an even more powerful PC than that 570.

so the crossfire is just aonther name for the radeon graphic card you mentioned? and i didn't know you can add an extra graphic card on top of that. kool.....

The 448-core 560ti is probably better bang for buck than the 570 if you want to stick with nVidia - the ASUS 3-slot one is $250 after MiR right now.

I couldn't say about the HDD, since I've generally only bought WD Cav Blacks or Spinpoint F3s. I'd ordinarily pick an F3 over the Cav Blue, but I'm not sure what's happening there since the Seagate deal.

I would strongly recommend a better PSU, though - the Neo ECO 520W ($60) or 620W ($70) would be my recommendations at the 'well under $100' price point, just because the specs are right and I've had such good experiences with them.

i think i'll stick to the radeon graphic card the other guys recommended since i don't any preference and it seems much cheaper. thanks for the suggestions tho.

and about the psu, are there any alternative to that on amazon cause i couldn't find it on there. i prefer amazon cause i got prime and newegg charge shipping.
 
so the crossfire is just aonther name for the radeon graphic card you mentioned? and i didn't know you can add an extra graphic card on top of that. kool.....



i think i'll stick to the radeon graphic card the other guys recommended since i don't any preference and it seems much cheaper. thanks for the suggestions tho.

and about the psu, are there any alternative to that on amazon cause i couldn't find it on there. i prefer amazon cause i got prime and newegg charge shipping.

Crossfire is when you put two Radeon cards in one system. It's basically just the marketing name for putting two cards together (two Geforce cards together are called running in "SLI" mode but it's the same concept). What I"m saying is that the 6870 will run pretty much everything right now very well with your other specs. But down the line if you want to upgrade you could add a second one (called "CrossFire") and then be just as powerful if not slightly more powerful than the 570.

My current PC (an alienware) has two 6870s in it, for example. Though when Witcher 2 game came out, it didn't support both (they had to update the drivers to support two cards a couple of weeks after launch). But even when it was only depending on one 6870 it still ran the game with everything at max settings except ubersampling at above 50fps and I have an older processor than that build you have there. So what I"m saying is that one 6870 is definitely good enough to run most games at max settings today. When that no longer is the case, you can always consider adding a second one later or just stop being OCed about having everything maxed out. :)
 

tigerin

Member
Or this if you want to save even a bit more: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047ZGIUK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

$119 after rebate.

damn, that's not a bad price. are there any differences to the other radeon card before?

For current gaming the Radeon will probably max out almost everything the market with your other specs. However it does use a bit more energy. It isn't as powerful as the 570 (obviously) but that is really only a problem a good ways down the line, at least a year or two. For right now, both will run pretty much everything with all the bells and whistles. And at that point in the future when this is no longer true, you can make the decision to add a second card Radeon 6870 or just start running stuff at lower settings. If you add a second card, you will be head to head with the 570's power when/if you need it.

that sounds like a good timespan. when you said it uses a bit more energy, you mean it takes longer to load, fans blow louder, system gets hotter, etc?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Ok, we're probably just going to go through each thing the PSU is connected to and unplug/replug. Is it possible that anything is defective/dead?
Here's a pic too(Sorry for crappy quality):
zM6Q8.jpg
4 pin power connector at the top left of the motherboard
 
damn, that's not a bad price. are there any differences to the other radeon card before?



that sounds like a good timespan. when you said it uses a bit more energy, you mean it takes longer to load, fans blow louder, system gets hotter, etc?

Yes the Radeon 6850 is the "little brother" to the 6870. The main difference is the clock speed. The architecture is the same. I have a buddy that has a 6850 and he can pretty much max out the vast majority of games with it, so it's still a pretty good option. It just depends on how much you want to spend.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Ok, we're probably just going to go through each thing the PSU is connected to and unplug/replug. Is it possible that anything is defective/dead?
Here's a pic too(Sorry for crappy quality):
zM6Q8.jpg
CPU connector (4 or 8 pin), should be on the top left of the mobo.

*edit*
Beat like an accommodating whore.
 

zulfate

Member
is there any really good micro atx motherboards? i want to build a LAN machine but i am not sure whats a good motherboard or if i do buy one am i being bottle necked with a gtx 560ti or maybe even a gtx 670?
 

mkenyon

Banned
is there any really good micro atx motherboards? i want to build a LAN machine but i am not sure whats a good motherboard or if i do buy one am i being bottle necked with a gtx 560ti or maybe even a gtx 670?
Maximus V Gene or Rampage IV Gene (prior SB/IB, latter Sandy-E)

*edit* I overlooked the bottleneck question, which is odd. Maximus V Gene is literally one of the best motherboards (IMO, *the* best for single video card), let alone good mATX board.

Lemme know if you get serious about it. mATX builds are my favorite, there's a ton of options out there as far as cases and total thermal design to make sure it's performing on or above par with bigger cases.

You can also look at the ASUS Z77 ITX board, which is just as capable as its bigger brothers thanks to some really unique design features.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
is there any really good micro atx motherboards? i want to build a LAN machine but i am not sure whats a good motherboard or if i do buy one am i being bottle necked with a gtx 560ti or maybe even a gtx 670?
A micro atx motherboard will not bottleneck you. The biostar in the op, and the asus gene are good choices.
 

tigerin

Member
Crossfire is when you put two Radeon cards in one system. It's basically just the marketing name for putting two cards together (two Geforce cards together are called running in "SLI" mode but it's the same concept). What I"m saying is that the 6870 will run pretty much everything right now very well with your other specs. But down the line if you want to upgrade you could add a second one (called "CrossFire") and then be just as powerful if not slightly more powerful than the 570.

My current PC (an alienware) has two 6870s in it, for example. Though when Witcher 2 game came out, it didn't support both (they had to update the drivers to support two cards a couple of weeks after launch). But even when it was only depending on one 6870 it still ran the game with everything at max settings except ubersampling at above 50fps and I have an older processor than that build you have there. So what I"m saying is that one 6870 is definitely good enough to run most games at max settings today. When that no longer is the case, you can always consider adding a second one later or just stop being OCed about having everything maxed out. :)

oh okay, now that clear things up.

yea, i just want to experience pc gaming while save money on the long run. having a beefy custom pc is not my main concern right now. if the pc can play most current and some of the early next gen console games(assuming that would be 2-3 years down the line and i would have to upgrade then i'm fine).

btw, is ubersampling a technical word for "test driving" the game to see if the pc can handle it?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom