Nope. Make the SSD into #1 boot device, install Wondows and you are ready to go.
After Samsung left HDD market, I have been hearing that the Samsung HDDs are just rebadge Seagate HDDs.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Infinite Justice
Member
its official the division was bought by Seagate
http://www.pcworld.com/businesscent..._seagate_acquisition_of_samsung_hdd_unit.html
but they seemingly still had the Samsung only branding until recently?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152181
And I just posted! This feels great, after 4 hours of work
I thought I had fucked something up, the fans on the fractal case and the macho are absolutely silent I couldn't tell if they were on at the orientation I have the case atm, and I got a "CPU fan error" message, but everything seems to be working; though in the asus bios the meter for the CPU fan is red. I also have a red led for "boot device" which I assume is because I have no bootable media in it atm. Going to mount W8 on my USB and see what happens
I thought I had fucked something up, the fans on the fractal case and the macho are absolutely silent I couldn't tell if they were on at the orientation I have the case atm, and I got a "CPU fan error" message, but everything seems to be working; though in the asus bios the meter for the CPU fan is red. I also have a red led for "boot device" which I assume is because I have no bootable media in it atm. Going to mount W8 on my USB and see what happens
faceless007
Member
To be accurate, though, he might have some annoyances when trying to access the files on his old HDD or if he wants to delete the old Windows install for example. I had this problem and had to manually take ownership of a bunch of things before I could move or delete them.
Yeah that's what I thought. So essentially buying a Seagate HDD is pretty much the same as buying a Samsung HDD, and in fact Samsung branded HDDs will disappear eventually and everything will be called Seagate. Did i get that right?
MisterNoisy
Member
Is the Macho plugged into the CPU fan header on the motherboard or somewhere else? Usually you get that error in the BIOS when there's nothing attached.
I have a Phenom X4 820 and I am looking at upgrading my PC. I bought an AM3+ MB before Bulldozer was out. I'm trying to figure out if it's worth putting an FX-8150 in or am I unlikely to notice an increase in system/multitasking speed? I mainly use it for gaming and web surfing.
It was just a flag in the bios to error if the cpu fan was below 600rpm so I set it to 300.
shungokusatsu
Member
One of my GTX 690's got back ordered, but I did at least get one today 
Couldn't find EVGA cards anywhere, so I folded and went with ASUS (not that there's much of a difference).
Quick pic of the rig:
Couldn't find EVGA cards anywhere, so I folded and went with ASUS (not that there's much of a difference).
Quick pic of the rig:
Thanks to everyone who replied to my earlier questions.
After some trouble upgrading my old PC, I've decided to go all the way and just build a new one. I've read the OP, but would appreciate some help in narrowing down what to buy. So far I have a 6870, an Ultra LSP 600w power supply, hard drive, and all accessories. What I still need is a case, motherboard, processor and ram (I think?). My requirement are to be able to play Diablo 3 in 1080p at medium/high settings, and to keep cost at a minimum.
Any recommendations on what to buy? Again, thanks in advance!
After some trouble upgrading my old PC, I've decided to go all the way and just build a new one. I've read the OP, but would appreciate some help in narrowing down what to buy. So far I have a 6870, an Ultra LSP 600w power supply, hard drive, and all accessories. What I still need is a case, motherboard, processor and ram (I think?). My requirement are to be able to play Diablo 3 in 1080p at medium/high settings, and to keep cost at a minimum.
Any recommendations on what to buy? Again, thanks in advance!
Costcosaurus
Banned
Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm going to go with the Radeon HD 7850.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131464
Looks like a sexy beast to me.
Sounds like you don't have a female fan connector on your motherboard's CPU FAN header. Its just a warning though, you can even disable it if you want (which I do on all of mine).
You're going to love it. I've loaded up every game I care about, and its all 120fps/120hz. Two is bordering on stupid levels unless you have a ton of spare cash and want to top benchmark charts, or have 3 120hz monitors.One of my GTX 690's got back ordered, but I did at least get one today
Couldn't find EVGA cards anywhere, so I folded and went with ASUS (not that there's much of a difference).
Quick pic of the rig:
Not really, but I can give you some pointers.
#1 - Have something that consistently reads core clock levels. The overclocking tools mean very little for where you set it at. Get EVGA OC Scanner for reading it.
#2 - Core clock > memory. Try to boost the former at the expense of the latter.
#3 - Only apply consistent voltage if you're having trouble staying crash free during the initial load increase.
#4 - Whatever happens, it will start to automatically scale back at 70 C. I had a higher overclock (as in core mhz) with a lower target setting and lower voltage than I did with higher voltage and a higher target setting. Finding that sweet spot is a total bitch, but I also didnt realize this while I was overclocking.
In fact, most of the reports I've seen, people are just assuming that the card is hitting the target clock speed and saying 'I overclocked to X", which is probably not true. Heat is the total enemy right now with these cards. Can't wait to get my 690 under water.
Get one of the combos that you can afford from the OP. 2500K is best, but you should be fine with an i3 for what you're looking for. Just don't expect it to do much outside of play current gen games well and general usage well, which is totally fine for 95% of gamers.
DeVeAn
Member
Oh great! So what about Drivers and Steam and Games. Will I have to re-install to ssd or can I drag the games over?
shungokusatsu
Member
Got confirmation my pump housing arrives tomorrow, which should be the last bit I need before leak testing. Still need to sleeve the white LEDs that go in the waterblock, but that should only take an hour.
The tubing will be the same shade of green once the pump is operational and I can get my fluid in there.
The tubing will be the same shade of green once the pump is operational and I can get my fluid in there.
Yeah, I had around 17000 with my max 690 OC and a really conservative 4.2 on my 3820.
shungokusatsu
Member
Diggin' the white cables and components. The green GTX glow goes perfectly with your mboard colors.
Seraphinianus
Banned
Built a new rig yesterday and everything is perfect except a weird audio issue: I can't get it to mute my monitor speakers when I plug in my headphones through the front jack. Followed a couple guides with just about every combination of Realtek manager settings + windows device settings possible, but I've been at it for a few hours and can't get it right.
I have the "Enchanced" rig in the OP-- so Biostar TZ77B, HAF912 case, but with a GTX 570 instead. Maybe someone else has dealt with this?
My audio output is via HDMI from the GTX 570 to my Asus VH242.
No configuration of settings in the Realtek manager or the windows 7 sound options (playback, recording tabs with default device/communication device settings) seems to get this to work. I have to manually switch between my headphones (under "Speakers") and the HDMI source (listed as my monitor.) I can't get it to play to my monitor, then switch to my headphones when I plug them in the front.
aside from that, this shit is awesome!
I have the "Enchanced" rig in the OP-- so Biostar TZ77B, HAF912 case, but with a GTX 570 instead. Maybe someone else has dealt with this?
My audio output is via HDMI from the GTX 570 to my Asus VH242.
No configuration of settings in the Realtek manager or the windows 7 sound options (playback, recording tabs with default device/communication device settings) seems to get this to work. I have to manually switch between my headphones (under "Speakers") and the HDMI source (listed as my monitor.) I can't get it to play to my monitor, then switch to my headphones when I plug them in the front.
aside from that, this shit is awesome!
FoxMcCloudDS
Member
Can anyone tell me which of these drivers on this list is for my "chipset". Also, should I download all of these drivers for my mobo?
http://www.asrock.com/mb/download.asp?Model=Z77 Pro4&o=Win764
http://www.asrock.com/mb/download.asp?Model=Z77 Pro4&o=Win764
For me, it automatically pops up a little window saying "you just plugged something in, what is it?" and I choose headphones.
Seraphinianus
Banned
I think I just "fixed" it. In games, it switches just fine. But I was testing it with VLC, which seems to require restarting the video to switch?!
Finished building my first PC 2 weeks ago based on the "Excellent" build in the OP and I wanted to thank Hazaro for his awesome guide.
Assembling the PC wasn't hard but was kind of stressful as this was my first time. Had a supremely anti-climactic moment when I finally closed the side panel of my Shinobi case and screwed on the final screws. I was standing triumphant over my brand new PC, pushed the power button and absolutely nothing happened. Turns out 1 of the stand offs wasn't being used and was causing a short circuit.
Since, I've bought Battlefield 3 and Witcher 2 as they seem to be the best looking games right now and my mind was blown. Even going back to my older games the image quality and framerate you can get is going to make playing on my laptop or even PS3 difficult.
Outside of games everything is just so fast. I can play Football Manager while browsing the internet and transfering files to my external HDD and everything still runs smoothly.
Right now the only time I've caused a slowdown was editing a sheet I copy pasted from Excel to Microsoft Word... As long as I can run the newer games on High settings, I think I can cope with that.
Assembling the PC wasn't hard but was kind of stressful as this was my first time. Had a supremely anti-climactic moment when I finally closed the side panel of my Shinobi case and screwed on the final screws. I was standing triumphant over my brand new PC, pushed the power button and absolutely nothing happened. Turns out 1 of the stand offs wasn't being used and was causing a short circuit.
Since, I've bought Battlefield 3 and Witcher 2 as they seem to be the best looking games right now and my mind was blown. Even going back to my older games the image quality and framerate you can get is going to make playing on my laptop or even PS3 difficult.
Outside of games everything is just so fast. I can play Football Manager while browsing the internet and transfering files to my external HDD and everything still runs smoothly.
Right now the only time I've caused a slowdown was editing a sheet I copy pasted from Excel to Microsoft Word... As long as I can run the newer games on High settings, I think I can cope with that.
MisterNoisy
Member
I'm pretty sure it's the 'INF driver' and 'Intel Management Engine driver', and assuming you have a video card, you can skip the VGA driver.
FoxMcCloudDS
Member
Awesome. Thank you! I am downloading the drivers for my new build (should get everything by Friday), and figure this would save me some time.
Thanks!
Sweet, glad it worked!
Not a super well known fact, but an overclocked 7970 actually beats an overclocked 680. It's kinda underclocked at stock, but maybe AMD is afraid of making it a 480 compared to the 680.
demigod
Member
Why didnt you pony up $23 for a 128gb crucial?
How much did you pay? I'd go with a 670 gtx.
I dont know why so many people are buying 560 ti and 570s when the 7850 is cheaper and better. High end go with nvidia, mid range go with AMD.
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
Hey guys, this is the build I am about to pull the trigger on. I will start ordering these parts tomorrow if you guys don't have any last-minute comments for me. I plan to OC the CPU to ~4.4GHz, so I just want to make sure that everything will work well together and that I'm not overlooking anything. I have a monitor that I will use, and I plan to use Denon D2000 headphones in lieu of a sound system.
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Biostar TZ77XE3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
RAM: G.Skill Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory
Hard Drive: Samsung Spinpoint F4 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive
Graphics: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card
Sound: Asus Xonar DG
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power: Corsair 650W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit)
Keyboard: Logitech K200 Wired Standard Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech G9x Wired Laser Mouse
Total: ~$1,360
Anything I should know before I start dropping wads of cash on this build?
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Biostar TZ77XE3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
RAM: G.Skill Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory
Hard Drive: Samsung Spinpoint F4 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive
Graphics: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card
Sound: Asus Xonar DG
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power: Corsair 650W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit)
Keyboard: Logitech K200 Wired Standard Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech G9x Wired Laser Mouse
Total: ~$1,360
Anything I should know before I start dropping wads of cash on this build?
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
EVGA no good? Alright I'll look into those two brands.
Edit: The reason I chose that EVGA card in particular is because it comes somewhat overclocked (core clock is 1.01 GHz) for the same price.
Edit: The reason I chose that EVGA card in particular is because it comes somewhat overclocked (core clock is 1.01 GHz) for the same price.
Really common, no worries. Glad you are enjoying it
Everything in $150-$250 is imo a worse value than it should be. 660 can't come soon enough.
People often have strong brand preferences or bad experiences that easily sway a $20 difference of $/FPS.
4.4Ghz I'd look into getting a 2500K instead. It should be easier to work with an OC around that range tmk.Hey guys, this is the build I am about to pull the trigger on. I will start ordering these parts tomorrow if you guys don't have any last-minute comments for me. I plan to OC the CPU to ~4.4GHz, so I just want to make sure that everything will work well together and that I'm not overlooking anything. I have a monitor that I will use, and I plan to use Denon D2000 headphones in lieu of a sound system.
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
Anything I should know before I start dropping wads of cash on this build?
eVGA is fine, it's just that it offers nothing extra in way of the card and you buy it for the warranty. I'd much prefer a giant quiet heatsink and a PCB closer to a 680 for $0 more.
Software overclocking will take you literally two clicks to get it faster. Don't bother buying faster unless it's for a longer warranty.
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
Oh, interesting. Alright I'll look into that, thanks. I assume the cooling and PSU I have picked out will handle a 4.4GHz OC just fine?
Ah, that I did not know. Alright I'll look into Asus and Gigabyte then.
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
Where did you get the Asus 670 top? I'm looking online and I can't find it anywhere, and the version on Newegg is sold out.
Ivy Bridge/3570K has better performance as a set clockspeed than the 2500k. If you could get the 3570k to 4GHz you'd be set. You're better off going with the newer part unless you find a really good deal on the 2500k.
What did those that recently did an install of W8 on their new builds find for drivers? I'm locked out of the Asus mobo drivers because their installers have version checks, and the only W8 driver I could find on intel's site is for the iGPU. I mainly just need the Z77 chipset driver
e: and I'm having a very odd problem on GAF, Firefox and IE seem to be loading the .css file instead of the .html/.php, so I can't access anything on gaf from that computer.
e: and I'm having a very odd problem on GAF, Firefox and IE seem to be loading the .css file instead of the .html/.php, so I can't access anything on gaf from that computer.
Newegg last friday.
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
So you're saying a 3570K at 4GHz would perform better than a 2500K at 4.4GHz? The difference between the 2 is ~$20 so I guess it wouldn't be worth springing for the older part just to get a 0.4GHz improvement in performance.
if the difference is only $20 definitely go for the 3570k. You can get them up to ~4.5/.6 that beats a 2500k at ~4.8. Then there's benefits like lower power consumption and PCIe 3.0. All he was pointing out is that you can do a more conservative clock increase and get the same performance as the standard OC for a 2500k.
Performance isn't measured in Hz.
This explains it better than I did, yeah.
gutterboy44
Member
You want to change those Gren HDDs for Black ones, I don't know about that 560 PSU, if you want to SLI in the future I think you'll need a bit more juice, also, is that machine for gaming? cause that's a lot of RAM you'll probably never use, apart from that, it's a beast
Thanks for the feedback. I was already considering putting the Blacks back in the build over the greens. Originally I had Blacks in but swapped out to greens thinking about knocking off a few bucks but I don't think it is worth it now. As for the PSU, I am def not going to do SLI since I will be running no higher than 1080p for the next few years. PSU's were actually the area I "read up on" the most since getting back into the PC building niche. It seems a high efficiency PSU closely rated to your needs is way better than just overshooting and getting a super high wattage lower efficiency PSU for less money. Even though that PSU is 560W it has been rated by end user tests to output as much as 700W reliably due to its quality. I am going for an efficient low noise build. Noctua fans are pricey but they seem to be lauded as incredibly quiet. As for the 16GB, I have run 8GB for 6 years and get to the high end fairly often as I do some Solidworks, CAD, CS5 and other software as well as running multiple shit at once. I figure it was so cheap might as well bump up the ram as well. That said, if I cut costs down to 8GB I think I will be ok as I am doing more gaming and less design related stuff of my PC these days.
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
Gotcha, thanks guys. Sorry for my noobishness; I haven't gamed on PC since Warcraft 3 lol.
...jeez, it's been almost 10 years. Where has the time gone.
...jeez, it's been almost 10 years. Where has the time gone.
patrickthehedgehog
Member
Selling my Mac Mini today to build a real PC. Still figuring out exactly what I want, but this thread has been a lot of help!
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