IB runs a bit hotter, 74C is just fine.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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IB runs a bit hotter, 74C is just fine.
Just finished building two PC's over the last few days, one for my 15 year old brother and one for me, with NO problems whatsoever. Well, the speakers I bought for my computer have a known feedback issue but I got them for really cheap knowing that I was taking a chance on them. Will have to RMA but I have a headset to use until then anyways.
The only thing I'm a little worried about is the nVidia driver keeps "crashing and recovering" while he is on the Windows desktop. I was thinking the card might need an RMA but he has gamed 12+ hours on it and I've ran the Furmark tests for 2 hours and had no issues. It only happens while he's using the desktop, so I'm hoping it's just a driver issue. I've done a bit of googling and there seems to be a few people having the same issue with the newest drivers and the same card that he has (560ti).
Otherwise, a great success!
The only thing I'm a little worried about is the nVidia driver keeps "crashing and recovering" while he is on the Windows desktop. I was thinking the card might need an RMA but he has gamed 12+ hours on it and I've ran the Furmark tests for 2 hours and had no issues. It only happens while he's using the desktop, so I'm hoping it's just a driver issue. I've done a bit of googling and there seems to be a few people having the same issue with the newest drivers and the same card that he has (560ti).
Otherwise, a great success!
Mine is at 4.4GHz, 1.27v and runs between 73 and 80. Looks good to me
EternalGamer
Banned
I would say no. The 6870 will be able to handle most of your games at max settings at that resolution (depending on other bottlenecks).
EternalGamer
Banned
Looks good to me. Personally, I would try to cut corners somewhere (case, harddrive, or eliminating wi-fi card) to get it up to a quadcore for more longevity. Dual cores are going to have a tough time of it a year or two from now, especially when the new console generation hits.
How necessary is Wifi for a desktop? A little elbow grease to run some cables or move around a router might be a better solution. You can also find much cheaper usb wifi's that work fine for around $15. I can personally vouch for them.
In short, anywhere you can squeeze an extra $30 or $40 bucks--eliminating wifi, a cheaper case or cheaper harddrive etc.--to get to a quadcore Sandy Bridge would probably be worth it in the long haul.
Like this i5 processor with this motherboard, for example, for a total of $189. Yeah it's ultimately $45 more than your current set up but it's a pretty big difference in terms of power longevity in my opinion.
HP_Wuvcraft
Banned
Old motherboard got fried, replacing it with an Intel mobo. Going to get here tomorrow. I just built this damn thing, and already one of my most expensive pieces breaks.
Am I safe with the same PSU or do you GAFs think I should get a new one?
Am I safe with the same PSU or do you GAFs think I should get a new one?
Thanks a lot for the advice.
I'm trying to keep it as budget as possible, and I have a $20 combo with the case and PSU in there, so I can't really cut any more there. Same with the HDD. My friend needs the wireless card (not tech savy at all), so that's not an option either. I think I'm going to still go with this set up. Thanks for your input though, nevertheless.
Costcosaurus
Banned
Better safe than sorry, so I would get a new one.
I payed $300 bucks for it from a fellow GAFer. Could have saved up a little more and bought a 670 but oh well. It was for a good cause.
Also, since it's been years since I've messed around with PC builds, is there one central place where I can download drivers/updates? Or do I have to go to each manufacturer's site to get them?
TheThunder
Member
Do we have a separate thread for monitor recommendations or do we just use this one ?
I need a new monitor that is:
-1080p
-24" or bigger
-Not interested in either 3D or 120Hz
-Would prefer PQ and better colors over super fast response time, of course it still has to be responsive and not noticeably laggy while gaming.
My price range is open.
I need a new monitor that is:
-1080p
-24" or bigger
-Not interested in either 3D or 120Hz
-Would prefer PQ and better colors over super fast response time, of course it still has to be responsive and not noticeably laggy while gaming.
My price range is open.
I've only read about 4.5+ on high volts with a ton of heat.
The good part about Ivy is 4.2 = SB 4.4Ghz, the bad part is it runs really hot and doesn't seem to want to go much above that. I'm conservative and seeing people dump 1.27V+ running at 80C load on a new 22nm chip makes me iffy.
Even the load savings iirc are minimal due to how IB handles voltage and there's no idle benefit TMK.
Like this!Mine is at 4.4GHz, 1.27v and runs between 73 and 80. Looks good to me
HP_Wuvcraft
Banned
Then new I shall have.
I do not trust the Geek Squad anymore. This is the second time that I have gone to them with the same computer. Once for a faulty memory card and now for my cold boot problem. They sent me home telling me it was the PSU. When I hooked up the new PSU I just bought, same cold boot problem. They told me "we hooked up a new PSU and it booted up fine". Now I have to wonder if they turned the computer off as soon as it booted up, because it did boot up just fine for me, too.... then it shut off and started doing the same old, same old.
Mine idles at 1.15v, 1.6ghz 30c. Load 1.24v 4.4ghz 74c.
Rather thorough performance comparison.
The temp curve on IB is a lot more harsh. I was in the lower 60s and upper 50s at load when I test 4.0. Didn't have to manually touch voltage for 4.4, it runs at low 70s. 4.5 had spikes up to the upper 80s.
It's been stable after 4 hours or so of prime95 and it is absolutely silent with my macho and stock fractal case fans, that is what is important to me, as long as the CPU is safe.
4.2 ghz does nothing to the IB temps on load.
I tested mine on stock voltage at 4.2 ghz (4.2-4.4 is about the max most people get on it on stock voltage) and the temps didn't go past low 60 C. I'm using a Cooler Master 212+.
Not really confident enough to play with the voltages and clock higher than that though. (That's why I went for the lowest max range of stock voltage OC) So can't tell you results from that.
From what I've read low overclock is great on the 3570K even better than the 2500K. Its when you go past the wall that ib completely craps the bed. Most new sb though can't even reach where ib craps the bed.
Source?
Just built a system for a friend last weekend. 2500K @ 4.8ghz. Totally anecdotal, I know, but I'm just wondering where this is coming from.
Your friend doesn't need to be tech savvy to stick a USB wi fi card in the right slot. He wasn't kidding around when he said that dual-core is going to be weaksauce soon enough. You're essentially purchasing a $500 console.
Not sure if anybody has mentioned or asked (and if they have, sorry) but how come there are only now two Fractal R3s on NewEgg?
Finally picked up a real case fan and I dunno if it's actually performing better than the stock fan (by lowering my temps by 3-4 C...maybe it's the AC but even then it wasn't that low) but a tad surprising. Certainly need to pick up a few more.
Finally picked up a real case fan and I dunno if it's actually performing better than the stock fan (by lowering my temps by 3-4 C...maybe it's the AC but even then it wasn't that low) but a tad surprising. Certainly need to pick up a few more.
EternalGamer
Banned
I don't know how far away he is from the router, but you can get a decent USB WIfi dongle for as little as $10 (-$15 from what he's currently paying). He also would be fine with an Antec 450w Power Supply for $37 (-$13). His RAM is also $5 cheaper than it was.
I think you'd even be better going with a sub $100 graphics card because you'll be living with that processor a lot longer and a dual core is a significant bottleneck. Like this 6770, which is still a pretty comparable good card for $85 after rebate. My brother has one and it still runs most games at fairly high settings. It is generally considered as good if not slightly better than the 550ti he currently has planned from what I've seen in benchmarks. Some games it performs slightly worse than the 550Ti, but it's fairly close. Most importantly, however, it's $35 cheaper after rebate.
If you just make those minor changes he's at $68 cheaper that could be put toward a better processor with really sacrificing any performance on other parts. If he found a slightly cheaper case, he'd easily end up with $80 more.
Dual cores are great for mobile and low power laptops. But they will get crushed once the next console generation arrives next year.
No idea, I noticed the black one was gone when I ordered my silver front.
Where'd you put the fan? The side panel has the biggest effect in a 3-fan set-up according to this (but not by much, as you noticed)
I read it a few time when I was deciding between the 2500K and the 3570K from anandtech and overclock. Might be anecdotal too.
Basically they said its very rare (like less than 10 percent) to get to 5.0 ghz on a 2500K chip. These are called golden chips. Some are saying its even rarer now.
While a 3570K doesn't hit the wall until past 4.6. Which is comparable to a 4.8-4.9 ghz 2500K.
So the max for 90+ percent of 2500K can be OC is really the same as the wall for the IB 3570K. You can go past the wall though.
Low OC like to 4.2 ghz and no voltage increase the 3570K destroys the 2500K.
My Anecdotal evidence is that you'll get about 200Mhz more with SNB than IVB. However the improved efficiency of IVB helps to offset that somewhat. Overall, no matter which chip you choose you are going to basically get the same overall performance either way. It will be so close it will have no real effect. I ended up picking up IVB just for the benefits of native USB3 and PCIE3 along with the other little things. Also from what I've read when overclocking both chips will consume approximately the same power as a result of the higher temps on IVB creating higher leakage. I also bought an IVB bridge because it ended up being a bit cheaper than SNB due to a price beat.
Thanks for a nice comparison thread.
I just didn't like it costing more at the time.
Ah, that's right. I came to terms with Ivy because 4.2 did well and matched up.
I just didn't like it costing more at the time.
EternalGamer
Banned
Articles I read came to the same conclusion. That's why I recommended the 3570k to my brother over the 2500k. They also allude to the idea that there may be other significant performance advantages once games begin taking advantage of some of the features of Ivy's "minor" optimizations.
Nope, took out the fan in the back and just threw the one I got today in there. Didn't actually think about the side panel at all, and I was staring right at it.
Might be a mix of the AC (although temps were around 25-26 C...now 22-23 C) too.
Seraphinianus
Banned
Got my parts over the past week and finally got everything squared today. Time for diablo 3!
Thanks Hazaro for the builds list in the OP which made it quite easy to see my options, my enhanced + GTX 570 build is wonderful.
Thanks Hazaro for the builds list in the OP which made it quite easy to see my options, my enhanced + GTX 570 build is wonderful.
This is flat out wrong. I've never met a 2500K that didn't get to 5.0 under water, max volts I've seen one require is 1.46.
The wall is also really different. SB just doesn't post. Ivy seems luck of the draw on how well the TIM is applied between the top and the actual chip, and how well it handles the extra heat.
patrickthehedgehog
Member
I haven't decided on a graphics card or a case yet, but how does this look so far? I'm trying to stay close to $1k when it's all finished up. Any feedback or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
BackwardsSuggestions
Member
Is there a program I can use to see if my 570 is running as it should.
I had to get one replaced since my last one died, and I'm sure I'm having performance loss with this new one. I used to get Serious Sam at over 60FPS now it hovers around 40 with heavy stuttering.
Also, fuck screen tearing. Uch.
I had to get one replaced since my last one died, and I'm sure I'm having performance loss with this new one. I used to get Serious Sam at over 60FPS now it hovers around 40 with heavy stuttering.
Also, fuck screen tearing. Uch.
Looks fantastic. Outside of the PSU, I'd build almost the same thing if someone asked me for a gaming PC with that budget. What's your budget for case and video card?
Though I'm a bastard still for neglecting it, check out the race your pc thread. Lots of systems there to compare yours with. Link in the OP.
Anyone have any experience with Sager/Clevo laptops?
I've been considering buying a laptop for work so I don't need a gaming machine. I thought I'd give Sager a try but wasn't sure if I'd be just as well served to go with a Toshiba or Samsung. Sager tends to be a little cheaper for what you get.
I do understand they come with no OS.
Edit: I was looking at XoticPC because they supposedly have excellent customer service should something go wrong.
I've been considering buying a laptop for work so I don't need a gaming machine. I thought I'd give Sager a try but wasn't sure if I'd be just as well served to go with a Toshiba or Samsung. Sager tends to be a little cheaper for what you get.
I do understand they come with no OS.
Edit: I was looking at XoticPC because they supposedly have excellent customer service should something go wrong.
patrickthehedgehog
Member
> $200 for the video card. I don't want to spend $300 on it unless I'd be getting ripped off by not doing so. I'm looking to spend less than $150 on the case. I'm having a bit of trouble finding a case that is quiet, cool and not horribly ugly. Probably going to go to Fry's this weekend to look at them in real life.
I'm going with that solid state because I have tons of external drives. I'll probably throw a 1tb internal drive in eventually.
Oh, what PSU would you use and why? I was going to get one that was 550W, but a few people were telling me to get one that is a bit more powerful.
Fractal Arc Midi, Coolermaster 690II (or the black and white version), Corsair 400R/500R, or BitFenix Shinobi. Getting quiet + cool generally requires the use of aftermarket fans. Noiseblockers, BitFenix Spectre Pro 120s, Scythe Gentle Typhoons (for heatsinks) or Slipstreams for cases, low RPM Yate Loons, and Swiftech Helix are all really good options.
Arc Midi and 690II are simply fantastic designs, and destroy everything even $100 more expensive for what you can do with them. Shinobi is not quite as diverse, but if you like the aesthetic, it's hard to say no to that price. I like all of those more than the Corsair offerings.
Depends entirely on your chip.
Don't cock tease like that bro.
Sager would be who I'd buy a laptop from if I wanted something more full featured than an ASUS Ultrabook. Go ask in laptop GAF though, there will be more knowledgeable people there. Link in OP.
patrickthehedgehog
Member
I think I'm going to get the Arc Midi. Thanks for that recommendation. Why wouldn't you get that PSU that I listed? What would you get instead?
Dell U3011 + GTX 690
I couldn't let yall have all the fun
this is what we call the 2012 Beast Refresh
MisterNoisy
Member
Great case! I'd also select a different PSU, and there are somewhat better offerings at that price point, IMO - the XFX Core 650W, the NZXT Hale82 650W and the Corsair TX650V2 are all good options right in that neighborhood, with the NZXT being modular to boot. I've been using NZXT HALE90s for my own PCs, but they're a bit pricey.
Seasonic X or Coolermaster AX. I know the one you listed is well reviewed and recommended. I'm just really dead set on buying the best possible PSU and totally removing that from possible issues in my setup. Both can be found regularly on sale in the $90-100 range.
*EDIT***
Meant Corsair AX, not Coolermaster.
Let me know if you need help paying for it. Just RMA'd my MSI 580 LE. Hoping that all goes well and I get it back, or they just send me a 680 TFII. If the latter doesn't happen (not likely to) then I will definitely buy one off of you.Dell U3011 + GTX 690
I couldn't let yall have all the fun
this is what we call the 2012 Beast Refresh
*EDIT***
Meant Corsair AX, not Coolermaster.
HP_Wuvcraft
Banned
What's a good program to test my mobo to see if it is working properly?
There isn't. There's a host of programs that test different aspects of your motherboard by proxy. You can take a look at a motherboard review and they'll run through quite a few. It's not direct like "test this motherboard piece", more like "test file transfer rates, which in a way tests your SATA controller".
Latest.
Oh yeah I completely we talked about that. Get at me via PM and we can talk. What was the problem with the 580 LE?
Some of my parts have been coming in, so I've been reviewing some of the building video guides in the OP to prepare. You guys have any tips for the actual building part? Is it bad to build on a carpet? Can I build on a glass table while standing on a carpet? I guess I'll just stick to the kitchen. Also should I get a grounded wrist strap? I don't want to mess anything up. D:
Hey guys I just started getting a weird issue today with my PC and was wondering if any of you had any idea of what the problem might be. As of this morning my PC seems to have started freezing whenever I get to the Windows login screen when I start the computer. Either I get the actual login screen but it's frozen, I get a black screen with the cursor showing but frozen, or just a black screen with nothing else. Sometimes there appears to be some sort of artifact on the screen (a horizontal line that goes part of the way across the screen). This happens roughly 80% of the time, the other 20% I am able to get into Windows although once it froze a minute or so after I logged in.
My temperatures look to be good, my motherboard isn't showing any errors and I don't know what would be causing it. I can't think of any changes that have been made since yesterday. I installed a new graphics card and video drivers about a week ago or so but I haven't had any issues with them before. Any help would be great!
Edit: I'm running Windows 7 if that matters. Also I should maybe note that it seems I can get into safe mode fine, although I've only tried twice.
My temperatures look to be good, my motherboard isn't showing any errors and I don't know what would be causing it. I can't think of any changes that have been made since yesterday. I installed a new graphics card and video drivers about a week ago or so but I haven't had any issues with them before. Any help would be great!
Edit: I'm running Windows 7 if that matters. Also I should maybe note that it seems I can get into safe mode fine, although I've only tried twice.
Sounds like video card issue, either bad card, PSU not providing enough juice and/or drivers. Try uninstalling and reinstalling the drivers. What video card and PSU?
mambadragon
Banned
I did a step up from my EVGA GTX 560 Ti 448 to a GTX 670, and the 670 is having all sorts of artifacting problems so I'm setting up an RMA. The only card I have around is an 8400GS which can barely run Diablo 3 on minimum settings.
On the positive side, my LG 246WP-BN monitor stopped powering up, but this is a known problem and all you have to do is replace some capacitors on the power supply (and there's a Youtube video of how to take the monitor apart). I did this and saved my monitor and saved me from having to spend ~$300 on a new non-TN 24" monitor.
On the positive side, my LG 246WP-BN monitor stopped powering up, but this is a known problem and all you have to do is replace some capacitors on the power supply (and there's a Youtube video of how to take the monitor apart). I did this and saved my monitor and saved me from having to spend ~$300 on a new non-TN 24" monitor
.PNY GeForce GTX 580 video card and Antec TruePower 750 W PSU. I had originally bought the PSU for a GeForce 560 Ti but 750 W should still be enough for a 580 no? It's been working fine for the last week until now.
HP_Wuvcraft
Banned
I just, for shits and giggles, moved my RAM around, and the computer stayed on longer than before (with the "bad" PSU). I'm going to plug everything, read the owner;s manual for a bit, and see what is what.
I'm sure I have the Gigabyte Cold Boot Bug, but if my computer stays on long enough to find and download a fix, that's worth it.
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