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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Thanks for that! I was trying to think of a board that had macro keys, and that's the only one that I hadn't heard anything bad about. Will keep in mind for sure.
Just the regular 560? The 560Ti is a much better card if you're wanting to go nVidia.
SiegfriedFM
Member
Maybe, but it's also 35% more expensive. I need to draw the line somewhere.
It's a huge difference in performance, and worth every penny. 560 will be one of those middling upgrades that will leave you wanting in a year.
DrBaalzamon
Member
I cannot agree more. If anything, just wait and save for the 560ti or higher. You will be glad you did in the long run.
If you can't afford to spend more money then a 6870 should be available for the same price roughly and again is a better card than the regular 560.
That too.
SiegfriedFM
Member
The 6870 is about $15 cheaper, but someone said it needs a "molex -> pcie-adapter", whatever that is. My friends recommended the 560 but admittedly they prefer Nvidia. If you're saying the Radeon card is better at that price, I guess I'll go for that.
It has a speed of 900 MHz versus 830 MHz for the Nvidia, is that what makes it faster? I don't want to mess with overclocking, I want my stuff to be stable for years.
With that said, as for the drive I think I'm gonna go with an Intel 330 120GB drive, roughly $30 more expensive than a similar drive in another brand but that one had lots of complaints about BSODs. After replacing my motherboard (and CPU+RAM) last fall because of BSODs galore I don't ever want to see one again.
It has a speed of 900 MHz versus 830 MHz for the Nvidia, is that what makes it faster? I don't want to mess with overclocking, I want my stuff to be stable for years.
With that said, as for the drive I think I'm gonna go with an Intel 330 120GB drive, roughly $30 more expensive than a similar drive in another brand but that one had lots of complaints about BSODs. After replacing my motherboard (and CPU+RAM) last fall because of BSODs galore I don't ever want to see one again.
If your friends recommended the Geforce 560, then they don't know what they're talking about. Geforce 560 Ti or better for Nvidia.
HD6870 is best for its money in its class.
As for the SSD, have you looked at the Crucial M4 or Samsung 830?
SiegfriedFM
Member
Samsung is a bit more expensive. Cheapest M4 is about the same as the Intel, but has only 175 MB write speed. Seems a bit low compared to the others.
Try here for the non top version if those are still out of stock everywhere as well. I got mine from them. Says they will get 10 tomorrow. I was focussed on the Top version as well but got sick of waiting and was advised to change to the normal version and just OC it yourself. Works great and cheaper.
If you care about fan noise then that one is the one to get. Under heavy load after a few hours I still don't hear it and stays cool. It's amazing.
e: Also here. They even have them in Stock. (quick search around shops still shows they are 'tough' to get) I buy from those stores only and never had any problems. Always next day arrival. I prefer Komplett by far though.
That's strange, I thought the Intel would be the most expensive with the Samsung and M4 being around the same price.
All the prices keep fluctuating on them. I got my Samsung for 126 on Monday, back to 150 now.
endresults
Member
I ordered the parts for my dream PC a few days ago and they're all set to arrive today...except for the fucking case. I emptied out an old ATX case I had in storage, cleaned it up, and got it ready to use as a temporary until the case arrived on Monday. I wake up this morning and check the UPS tracking number and see this:
UPS be trollin'.
UPS be trollin'.
Hah! Union Gap. I'm right over the mountains from you in Oly. Went to Central for a year, so of course went over to Yakima often to buy electronic toys.
Grats on the case, good luck with the build.
*edit*
To be clear, I meant "funny how small forum worlds can be".
You ever head over to PDXLAN?
Grats on the case, good luck with the build.
*edit*
To be clear, I meant "funny how small forum worlds can be".
You ever head over to PDXLAN?
Thanks for the input! I might just go for the non-top version. That version definitely seems to be readily available. I'll probably wait until early next week to see how things develop with the TOP version.
@Carecrow: How much did you overclock your GPU? Do you have a good overclocking guide available?
Anyone have experience with these closed loop coolers? I have a Corsair H60 attached to my Asus P8Z77-V LX motherboard and I cannot control the pump speed. It runs at a constant 4200 RPM.
I've been reading in a few places that at 4200 RPM the H60 is actually being heated up, or at least causing cooling to be less efficient. Anyone know how accurate that is? Supposedly the sweet spot is around 3800 RPM.
On that note, does anyone have an NZXT Sentry Mesh? Does it do its simple job well enough (better yet is anyone currently trying what I plan on attempting)? I've been considering getting one to control the H60's pump.
I've been reading in a few places that at 4200 RPM the H60 is actually being heated up, or at least causing cooling to be less efficient. Anyone know how accurate that is? Supposedly the sweet spot is around 3800 RPM.
On that note, does anyone have an NZXT Sentry Mesh? Does it do its simple job well enough (better yet is anyone currently trying what I plan on attempting)? I've been considering getting one to control the H60's pump.
undercoverb0ss
Member
Swapped my 6950s for a GTX690 this week.
LOVE THE 690
LOVE THE 690
Any thoughts on this build? I don't really plan on overclocking or anything. I just want to spend under 3k
COOLER MASTER HAF X RC-942-KKN1 Black Steel/ Plastic ATX Full Tower Computer Case
Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000 BX80623I72600K
1x ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
EVGA 02G-P4-2680-KR GeForce GTX 680 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
COOLER MASTER Silent Pro Gold Series RSA00-80GAD3-US 1000W ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.92
or Since GAF recommends lower wattage(Corsair AX850 is $60 more)
COOLER MASTER Silent Pro Gold Series RS800-80GAD3-US 800W ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS
SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC256D/AM 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) Desktop Upgrade Kit
4x CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9
2x SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
LITE-ON Blu-ray Burner with 3D Playback SATA iHBS212-08 LightScribe Support
ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible with latest Intel 2011/1366/1155 and AMD FM1/AM3+
Thx
COOLER MASTER HAF X RC-942-KKN1 Black Steel/ Plastic ATX Full Tower Computer Case
Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000 BX80623I72600K
1x ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
EVGA 02G-P4-2680-KR GeForce GTX 680 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
COOLER MASTER Silent Pro Gold Series RSA00-80GAD3-US 1000W ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.92
or Since GAF recommends lower wattage(Corsair AX850 is $60 more)
COOLER MASTER Silent Pro Gold Series RS800-80GAD3-US 800W ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS
SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC256D/AM 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) Desktop Upgrade Kit
4x CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9
2x SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
LITE-ON Blu-ray Burner with 3D Playback SATA iHBS212-08 LightScribe Support
ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible with latest Intel 2011/1366/1155 and AMD FM1/AM3+
Thx
1) Yes, tons.
2) Flow rate doesn't really affect temperatures that much, and the idea that the pump would actually heat the water sounds like anecdotal positing at its best. I say shenanigans until there's some hard proof.
3) Yeah, used one on a 600T build with the H100 to try and troubleshoot persistent bubbles that wouldn't escape. Worked well. BitFenix Hydra Pro is a good choice too for about the same price.
*edited for grammar, in case my 9th grade english teacher happens to read GAF.
1000w power supply is too much for a 680 go with a 750w. Not sure if you need the two disc drives, won't the blu ray burner burn DVDs as well? Any reason your going for 2x1tb drives instead of one 2tb?
I may upgrade to SLI at some point. I wasn't sure what the power requirement would be for that. I was going to do a RAID with the two hard drives.
I usually like to have two disc drives in my system especially since the DVD burner is only $16
Looks like you're planning on this for editing as much as gaming, is this correct?
Things like a blu-ray drive plus a dvd burner seem like major overkill to me unless the above is true. Same with the 2600K.
For two 680s, a good 750W or 850W will be plenty. Get one from the OP.
Yeah, I would be using it for Maya, Photoshop, video editing etc as well as gaming/general use. I don't mind a little overkill as long as it stays inside my price range. I've considered professional level video cards but they've always seemed like a waste to me in practice considering the price spike.
You could certainly get two 680 on a 750w supply, they have a TDP of 195w each, and you say your not interested in overclocking anything so it should be fine. Everything else looks great.
Might want to take a gander at the X79 platofrm and a 3930K instead.
Basically, take the extravagant build in the OP. Reduce video card to a GTX670, PSU to an AX650/750 or X650/750, swap ram for two kits of this, and possibly a different motherboard like the Biostar Tpower X79, ASRock Extreme 4/7 X79, or Gigabyte X79 UD3. If you need more detail than that, like links and whatnot, lemme know.
X79 platform is exactly intended for lots of multimedia work.
I'll check that out and do a build. Thanks both for the recommendations.
What's your case situation? When was the last time you cleaned the card? How about the case?
And yeah, that is too hot.
KoruptData
Member
Best way to clean a videocard to take it out and use compessed air?
Azzurri
Gold Member
I don't think it's dirty, I just think it's defected, it's been doing this since I've bought it.
DodgyGeezerFella
Member
Well spank my ass and call me charlie.....
Basically, i have always not bothered upgrading my CPU, literally been using the same ol X4 640 for all these years and thought its always the GPU (mostly) that matters, today i finally got myself an I5 2500K, so far i like whats changes.
Black Ops no longer stutters at all, plays just like every other Call of Duty now (Not that it gets excused, i still think they fucked it up when MW2 and 3 ran silky smooth before)
Crysis seems to maintain a steady frame rate, no more big drops in action heavy physical areas.
Mass Effect 3, used to have the odd dip here and there, no longer, 60+ all the way.
Next game to try will be GTA IV to see the impact it has on that, and then some BF3.
Im happy
Basically, i have always not bothered upgrading my CPU, literally been using the same ol X4 640 for all these years and thought its always the GPU (mostly) that matters, today i finally got myself an I5 2500K, so far i like whats changes.
Black Ops no longer stutters at all, plays just like every other Call of Duty now (Not that it gets excused, i still think they fucked it up when MW2 and 3 ran silky smooth before)
Crysis seems to maintain a steady frame rate, no more big drops in action heavy physical areas.
Mass Effect 3, used to have the odd dip here and there, no longer, 60+ all the way.
Next game to try will be GTA IV to see the impact it has on that, and then some BF3.
Im happy
I'm about to buy my first powerful gaming PC. I'm currently in college, so I want to get the best deal possible. My father (who knows a lot about PC) said that it's better to buy one whole instead of building it. He says there will be a lot of driver issues and many things won't work with one another. Is this true?
Your father doesn't know what he's talking about.
Really the only driver that I had to download, except for all the mobo extras, is for the SATA controller. Windows grabs everything for you. Building it is the easiest and funnest part, it's just sifting through all the crap to find the stuff you want before you build that can be a pain.
Figure out your budget, check the op for an idea of what you'll be looking for and then post here and people will help you.
Thanks, I thought this was the case because I never heard anyone complain about any driver issues before. I think my dad is just dated on information, he used to build PC's back in '95, so...
Messing around in my nightly Googletrot reading up on component bits, I just stumbled across something I'm rather ashamed not to have noticed prior to clicking a 'purchase' button.
I have an Asus HD 7970 DirectCUII (non-OC'ed) videocard sat in the corner of the room, patiently awaiting a build that's scheduled for late August.
Turns out, according to the internet at least, that the Asus 7970s are voltage locked or something, neutering their overclockabilityness (technical term). Can this be confirmed/denied? If true, am I right in assuming that the card will be stuck at stock settings of 925MHz, without the option to fiddle with buttons and hit numbers akin to the OC/TOP cards registering figures at 1000+MHz?
I don't know whether to treat this as a tragedy or not. I mean, the card's likely to be a monster regardless as far as I could ever tell, but I'm nevertheless a little perturbed that the option of flicking alien switches and fiddling with scary risk/reward settings might be denied to me.
I have an Asus HD 7970 DirectCUII (non-OC'ed) videocard sat in the corner of the room, patiently awaiting a build that's scheduled for late August.
Turns out, according to the internet at least, that the Asus 7970s are voltage locked or something, neutering their overclockabilityness (technical term). Can this be confirmed/denied? If true, am I right in assuming that the card will be stuck at stock settings of 925MHz, without the option to fiddle with buttons and hit numbers akin to the OC/TOP cards registering figures at 1000+MHz?
I don't know whether to treat this as a tragedy or not. I mean, the card's likely to be a monster regardless as far as I could ever tell, but I'm nevertheless a little perturbed that the option of flicking alien switches and fiddling with scary risk/reward settings might be denied to me.
Sounds like it. You can either try and reseat the heatsink or RMA it. Did you buy it from a person who registered it or from a store?
I don't know what source you have that says this, but I have not heard of such things. A friend of mine actually got a ~1275mhz clock out of his DCII 7970 on air. Pretty sweet card.
"AMD quad core won't bottleneck anything/is fine" crowd please read this. I had the same experience.Well spank my ass and call me charlie.....
Basically, i have always not bothered upgrading my CPU, literally been using the same ol X4 640 for all these years and thought its always the GPU (mostly) that matters, today i finally got myself an I5 2500K, so far i like whats changes.
Black Ops no longer stutters at all, plays just like every other Call of Duty now (Not that it gets excused, i still think they fucked it up when MW2 and 3 ran silky smooth before)
Crysis seems to maintain a steady frame rate, no more big drops in action heavy physical areas.
Mass Effect 3, used to have the odd dip here and there, no longer, 60+ all the way.
Next game to try will be GTA IV to see the impact it has on that, and then some BF3.
Im happy
new build is up and running, but there is a bit of a story on how it got this way.
So I ordered my parts + case on Newegg on Monday. The case showed up today (Bitfenix Raider) at 7PM and I was eager to get building.
I tear into it and am opening up the case to check it out and I find this:
Front Panel:
Top Panel:
Well fuck. So I call up Newegg and just start the process of a refund, because fuck waiting another 2 weeks for a replacement case.
Once that is done I head out towards Microcenter and grab a Fractal Arc Midi (Probably should have done this in the first place)
As a reminder I am north of Atlanta and the Microcenter is pretty much where all the northbound traffic from the city and anywhere around it merges.
So I leave Microcenter and find myself sitting in the famous Atlanta traffic for 2 hours on my way home.
After that everything goes swimingly.
I have a few dangling fan wires I will clean up later. I am tired of dealing with this thing atm.
Ran Prime95 for a bit and these are the load temps I am getting on a 3570K @ stock settings. These look alright?
PS. That massive Noctua cooler is DEAD SILENT. I can't hear a thing from it. Super impressive.
So I ordered my parts + case on Newegg on Monday. The case showed up today (Bitfenix Raider) at 7PM and I was eager to get building.
I tear into it and am opening up the case to check it out and I find this:
Front Panel:
Top Panel:
Well fuck. So I call up Newegg and just start the process of a refund, because fuck waiting another 2 weeks for a replacement case.
Once that is done I head out towards Microcenter and grab a Fractal Arc Midi (Probably should have done this in the first place)
As a reminder I am north of Atlanta and the Microcenter is pretty much where all the northbound traffic from the city and anywhere around it merges.
So I leave Microcenter and find myself sitting in the famous Atlanta traffic for 2 hours on my way home.
After that everything goes swimingly.
I have a few dangling fan wires I will clean up later. I am tired of dealing with this thing atm.
Ran Prime95 for a bit and these are the load temps I am getting on a 3570K @ stock settings. These look alright?
PS. That massive Noctua cooler is DEAD SILENT. I can't hear a thing from it. Super impressive.
Sutton Dagger
Member
So I posted on here the other day, but now I'm literally ready to press the button on my first gaming PC. I'm in Aus so prices etc will reflect that. The online store is PCcasegear.
So the specific requirements I have are; quite, OC-able and great for gaming. With that in mind and with $1800 to spend, this is a rough build of what I'm looking at so far, but I would love some input/suggestions.
Case: Fractal Design Define R3 Black USB 3.0 $138.00 (I really like the minimalistic look of this case)
CPU: Intel Core i5 3570K $245.00 (I don't need an i7 cause I won't be video editing etc right?)
GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 670 DirectCU II $529.00 (Apparently the Asus card is quite and cool with some room for OC'ing?)
MOBO: ASUS P8Z77-V LK Motherboard $169.00 (don't really know anything about MOBO's, it was recommended to me. Is the Motherboard important in OC'ing the CPU/GPU?)
PSU: Corsair TX-650M Modular Power Supply $129.00 OR
Corsair HX-650 Power Supply $129.00 (What is the difference, is one preferable over the other, is the HX also modular, will this be enough power for this rig?)
RAM: G.Skill F3-14900CL9D-8GBXL 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 $65.00 (8GB is fine for gaming right?)
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB ST2000DM001 $119.00 (I was told to avoid the WD green lol)
SSD: Crucial M4 SSD 128GB $155.00 (Will be used for the OS and games, I can transfer the games I'm no longer playing to the HDD quite easily?)
CPU cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler - $39.00 (will be enough to keep the CPU cool at mediumish clocks? Say 4.2-4.3)
ODD: Pioneer DVR-219L DVDRW OEM $25.00 (May not even use it, but for the price I might as well).
What about wifi and Bluetooth support, any suggestions here?
Currently sitting at $1613 without wifi/BT or shipping.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
So the specific requirements I have are; quite, OC-able and great for gaming. With that in mind and with $1800 to spend, this is a rough build of what I'm looking at so far, but I would love some input/suggestions.
Case: Fractal Design Define R3 Black USB 3.0 $138.00 (I really like the minimalistic look of this case)
CPU: Intel Core i5 3570K $245.00 (I don't need an i7 cause I won't be video editing etc right?)
GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 670 DirectCU II $529.00 (Apparently the Asus card is quite and cool with some room for OC'ing?)
MOBO: ASUS P8Z77-V LK Motherboard $169.00 (don't really know anything about MOBO's, it was recommended to me. Is the Motherboard important in OC'ing the CPU/GPU?)
PSU: Corsair TX-650M Modular Power Supply $129.00 OR
Corsair HX-650 Power Supply $129.00 (What is the difference, is one preferable over the other, is the HX also modular, will this be enough power for this rig?)
RAM: G.Skill F3-14900CL9D-8GBXL 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 $65.00 (8GB is fine for gaming right?)
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB ST2000DM001 $119.00 (I was told to avoid the WD green lol)
SSD: Crucial M4 SSD 128GB $155.00 (Will be used for the OS and games, I can transfer the games I'm no longer playing to the HDD quite easily?)
CPU cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler - $39.00 (will be enough to keep the CPU cool at mediumish clocks? Say 4.2-4.3)
ODD: Pioneer DVR-219L DVDRW OEM $25.00 (May not even use it, but for the price I might as well).
What about wifi and Bluetooth support, any suggestions here?
Currently sitting at $1613 without wifi/BT or shipping.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Those are great temps under load. I've also got the same cooler and the thing is glorious.
The noise level alone was worth the 85 bucks. Gonna overclock and see how the temps look tomorrow.
What sort of temperatures should I be looking for if I get to around 4.5ghz?
Think about replacing the rest of your case fans with Noctuas.
Yeah, it is that awesome.
The Fractal ones that came with the case are pretty quiet, I don't think I need to go that crazy yet.
Just gave The Witcher 2 a test run now that I have something to actually push this display. Looks fantastic and runs smoothly. It's not 60FPS on Ultra, but I did not expect it at this res.
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