Oh shit. I forgot about that. I had the firmware downloaded but never did anything. I'll try that after I get home from work.
It's not showing up on the bios though. Can it still be updated?
-
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
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Oh shit. I forgot about that. I had the firmware downloaded but never did anything. I'll try that after I get home from work.
It's not showing up on the bios though. Can it still be updated?
Only click the spoiler if you want.
No
D: why? I know the number crunching isn't as good as the i5 (for rendering video projects)
but it should be relatively equal for gaming yes?
Garou
Member
I'm not sure, set your Sata-Ports to IDE compatibility-mode in the BIOS, deactivate any ACPI, boot from the updater-disc and hope for the best. Otherwise, isn't that drive covered by Crucial-warranty?
legacyzero
Banned
So I'm downloading drivers for my build for tomorrow night and I have some questions.
The Newegg HowTo is telling me that I only need 4 types of drivers for my MOBO:
-Chipset
-Lan
-Audio
-USB
Yet, the Asus site has alot more than that. Will I need to download all of those too?
The Newegg HowTo is telling me that I only need 4 types of drivers for my MOBO:
-Chipset
-Lan
-Audio
-USB
Yet, the Asus site has alot more than that. Will I need to download all of those too?
Infinite Justice
Member
Only click the spoiler if you want.
No
due to the flow going on here i think its time for this i guess
Shining Sunshine
Banned
http://techreport.com/review/23246/inside-the-second-gaming-performance-with-today-cpus
http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/203?vs=288
First one is a long read but worth it to understand CPUs impact on games.
In short the 1100T will cause higher frame latency (therefore lower fps) than the 2500k.
Hi guys - hoping someone here might be able to help me out with some PC trouble I've been having recently (if this isn't the right thread, then could someone point me to where I can ask).
I've recently, during certain games, started experiencing black screen crashes, where I'll be playing a game and, at some random time, it'll suddenly go to a black screen, as if the monitor has gone into power saving mode, though I'll still be able to hear the audio through my speakers. The only way to get out of this is to then perform a hard reset of the PC.
I've searched around on Google and a lot of posts seem to point to this being a PSU issue. I currently run a 700w PSU, an i7-920 and have a GTX295 2GB but not really sure if this is enough (I'm a bit of a PC spec newbie!). Do you think that upgrading the PSU to an 850w one would alleviate the issue or could it be something completely different causing all of my woes? I've tried under clocking the card (not sure if this makes a difference) which didn't work for me, and it doesn't appear to be overheating. I've tried using all kinds of different drivers for it too.
The thing is, some games will run fine for hours and hours (BF3 / Burnout Paradise / Assassin's Creed) yet some will crash after a few minutes (Guild Wars 2 / Portal 2 / Trine(!)).
Any advice would be great - I'm completely at a loss as to where else to turn to try and solve the issue!
I've recently, during certain games, started experiencing black screen crashes, where I'll be playing a game and, at some random time, it'll suddenly go to a black screen, as if the monitor has gone into power saving mode, though I'll still be able to hear the audio through my speakers. The only way to get out of this is to then perform a hard reset of the PC.
I've searched around on Google and a lot of posts seem to point to this being a PSU issue. I currently run a 700w PSU, an i7-920 and have a GTX295 2GB but not really sure if this is enough (I'm a bit of a PC spec newbie!). Do you think that upgrading the PSU to an 850w one would alleviate the issue or could it be something completely different causing all of my woes? I've tried under clocking the card (not sure if this makes a difference) which didn't work for me, and it doesn't appear to be overheating. I've tried using all kinds of different drivers for it too.
The thing is, some games will run fine for hours and hours (BF3 / Burnout Paradise / Assassin's Creed) yet some will crash after a few minutes (Guild Wars 2 / Portal 2 / Trine(!)).
Any advice would be great - I'm completely at a loss as to where else to turn to try and solve the issue!
MagicWithEarvin
Member
Grrrr, I need a better PSU with longer cables. My Thermaltake TR2's cables aren't long enough to take advantage of my Antec 1100's rubberized backside panel for cable routing.
so i should take the AMD mobo and processor back to frys and buy a new board?
My i5 is still ok. But should I upgrade to an i7 since I have to get a new board?
brotkasten
Member
legacyzero
Banned
From my research (I barely knew anything about it myself, initially) from GAF and various other sites, Intel is basically 2 steps ahead of AMD in most if not all categories. I've NEVER had anybody on GAF EVER recommend AMD over Intel.
My curent build has an AMD in it, and when coming to GAF for what I should do, Intel was pretty unanimous. So I ended up going with the 3570K.
So yes.
MagicWithEarvin
Member
Does anybody know of any good pre-built systems at the moment? My budget is about £800/900. Was tempted to get an X51 but size has never really been an issue for me (oh matron) and unfortunately they don't sell the same specs for the same price in a big (and therefore cooler and easier to upgrade) case.
Was quite tempted just to steal Jexhius's build from a few pages back and order the same parts, haven't build a machine for 10 years and to be honest I don't really have the time and patience anymore for it.
Thanks!
Was quite tempted just to steal Jexhius's build from a few pages back and order the same parts, haven't build a machine for 10 years and to be honest I don't really have the time and patience anymore for it.
Thanks!
What would be a good pairing for the i5?
They don't have any p8z68's (only refurbished).
They had p8z77 pro...
Or should I get a sabertooth x79 with an i7? Or should i wait to get a new CPU when i9's or whatever come out?
Having had a look at the pre-built, I can't really justify the mark-up - so here is my variation on Jexhius build. I'm trying to source everything from Amazon as I get free shipping. So I switched case as the fan requires > 200m clearance, and picked variations on PSU/RAM (based on the rather awesome op).
Antec Eleven Hundred Gaming PC Tower Case (Nine Expansions Slots, XL-ATX, Standard ATX, MicroATX, Mini-ITX, No PSU Included)
£91.36
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU-Kühler (120mm)
£24.99
Sapphire 11200-07-20G Graphics Card (2GB, HD7850, GDDR5)
£169.99
Antec BP550 PLUS GB
£55.36
Intel 3rd Generation Core i5-3570K CPU (4 x 3.40GHz, Ivy Bridge, Socket 1155, 6Mb L3 Cache, Intel Turbo Boost Technology 2.0)
£173.63
Asus P8Z77-V LX Motherboard (Socket 1155, 32GB DDR3 Support, ATX, Intel Z77 Express, USB 3.0, CrossFireX Support, Dual Intelligent Processors 3)
£87.47
Samsung F3 HD103SJ 1TB internal Hard Drive SATAII 32MB Cache 7200RPM
£63.90
Corsair CML8GX3M2A1600C9 LP Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Memory Module Kit
£37.93
I guess my first question is will this even work? and second question is - any improvements?
Thanks in advance.
Antec Eleven Hundred Gaming PC Tower Case (Nine Expansions Slots, XL-ATX, Standard ATX, MicroATX, Mini-ITX, No PSU Included)
£91.36
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU-Kühler (120mm)
£24.99
Sapphire 11200-07-20G Graphics Card (2GB, HD7850, GDDR5)
£169.99
Antec BP550 PLUS GB
£55.36
Intel 3rd Generation Core i5-3570K CPU (4 x 3.40GHz, Ivy Bridge, Socket 1155, 6Mb L3 Cache, Intel Turbo Boost Technology 2.0)
£173.63
Asus P8Z77-V LX Motherboard (Socket 1155, 32GB DDR3 Support, ATX, Intel Z77 Express, USB 3.0, CrossFireX Support, Dual Intelligent Processors 3)
£87.47
Samsung F3 HD103SJ 1TB internal Hard Drive SATAII 32MB Cache 7200RPM
£63.90
Corsair CML8GX3M2A1600C9 LP Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Memory Module Kit
£37.93
I guess my first question is will this even work? and second question is - any improvements?
Thanks in advance.
MagicWithEarvin
Member
Is that normal for my GPU? I'm kinda scared. Well, that's when I alt-tabbed from Sleeping Dogs with the high res texture pack and all.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
I had a giant monolithic tv capture my imagination yesterday while I was at Costco.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0076LY7NM/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Is the refresh really 120hz or is it some weird motion interpolation thing? I know everyone always says that TVs that are marketed as 120hz aren't truly that fast. I mean whatever I can't afford it anyway just genuinely curious. It was so majestic.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0076LY7NM/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Is the refresh really 120hz or is it some weird motion interpolation thing? I know everyone always says that TVs that are marketed as 120hz aren't truly that fast. I mean whatever I can't afford it anyway just genuinely curious. It was so majestic.
Swap your 7850 to the OC version of the Sapphire, it's cheaper http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008HV63F0/
You could swap to the MSI or Gigabyte versions for their better warranty and RMA service but with Amazon that's about £10-15 more than the Sapphire one I linked
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007MUJI86/
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007LBIGKC/
Other than that I wouldn't change much else.
Anton668
Member
My son put together a list on Newegg. Its for Gaming/school/autocad.
any suggestions/complaints/comments?
(dont worry bout 2 cases, 1 is for me)
any suggestions/complaints/comments?
(dont worry bout 2 cases, 1 is for me)
COOLER MASTER COSMOS II RC-1200-KKN1 Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
Model #:RC-1200-KKN1
Item #:N82E16811119252
Return Policy:Standard Return Policy
In Stock
$349.99 -$50.00 Instant $299.99
Corsair Graphite Series 600T CC600TM Mid-Tower Gaming Case
Model #:CC600TM
Item #:N82E16811139007
Return Policy:Standard Return Policy
In Stock
Mail in Rebate Card
$169.99 -$10.00 Instant $159.99
ASUS P8Z77-V PRO LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Model #8Z77-V PRO
Item #:N82E16813131819
Return Policy:Standard Return Policy
In Stock
$234.99 -$27.00 Instant $207.99
EVGA 02G-P4-2670-KR GeForce GTX 670 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Model #:02G-P4-2670-KR
Item #:N82E16814130782
Return Policy:VGA Standard Return Policy
In Stock
$399.99 -$20.00 Instant $379.99
CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC ...
Model #:CP-9020031-NA
Item #:N82E16817139010
Return Policy:Standard Return Policy
In Stock
Mail in Rebate Card
$169.99 -$25.00 Instant $144.99
Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I73770K
Model #:BX80637I73770K
Item #:N82E16819116501
Return Policy:CPU Replacement Only Return Policy
In Stock
$329.99 $329.99
CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9
Model #:CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9
Item #:N82E16820233143
Return Policy:Memory Standard Return Policy
In Stock
$89.99 $89.99
Corsair Force Series GT CSSD-F120GBGT-BK 2.5" 120GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Model #:CSSD-F120GBGT-BK
Item #:N82E16820233191
Return Policy:Limited Replacement Only Return Policy
In Stock
$149.99 -$30.00 Instant $119.99
Western Digital Caviar Black WD2002FAEX 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Model #:WD2002FAEX
Item #:N82E16822136792
Return Policy:Standard Return Policy
In Stock
$199.99 -$20.00 Instant $179.99
Subtotal: $1,912.91
legacyzero
Banned
Trying to find a decent monitor is killing me.
-2ms
-at least 1080
-no more than $200
Any recommendations?
-2ms
-at least 1080
-no more than $200
Any recommendations?
You could easily save over $300 on that and have a slightly better build.
Case: Fractal R4 $110
MOBO: Asus Z77-V Pro $208
GPU: GB GTX 670 $400
PSU: Seasonic M12II 620w $90
SSD: Samsung 830 128gb $100
CPU: 3770k $330
RAM: Samsung 30nm 8gb $45x2
HDD: Samsung F4 2tb $120
Total: $1448 vs $1753 with his choices
Throw in a Hyper 212+ if OCing is being considered. Might as well since you're getting a 3770k.
MagicWithEarvin
Member
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236174
That's what I got recently and it's very nice. Slim bezel, matte finish. It was $159.99 shipped on Labor Day, but it seems to go on sale at $159.99 some times.
RibbedHero
Member
I see people are talking about their 3570K overclocks and wanted some further input on mine.
At 4.4Ghz after 2 hours of Prime95 stress testing, I'm getting:
Temps look great to me, and the voltages seem good too. Offset is currently +0.020 and Load-Line Calibration is set at High (50%). Fan is running at 80% at those temperatures, is that too aggressive a fan curve?
I'm currently using a P8Z77-V PREMIUM and a Hyper 212 Evo. Thinking of pushing to 4.5-4.6Ghz but I heard that IB gets very hot under 4.5+. Should I go for what seems to be a marginal difference in performance for a large increase in temps? If so, increase offset and LLC or just offset?
At 4.4Ghz after 2 hours of Prime95 stress testing, I'm getting:
Temps look great to me, and the voltages seem good too. Offset is currently +0.020 and Load-Line Calibration is set at High (50%). Fan is running at 80% at those temperatures, is that too aggressive a fan curve?
I'm currently using a P8Z77-V PREMIUM and a Hyper 212 Evo. Thinking of pushing to 4.5-4.6Ghz but I heard that IB gets very hot under 4.5+. Should I go for what seems to be a marginal difference in performance for a large increase in temps? If so, increase offset and LLC or just offset?
legacyzero
Banned
I think I was looking at that originally. Seems a lot of people were complaining of a cheap and wobbly stand. Not too big of a problem for me.
There was this one too:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236049
Anton668
Member
yeah, forgot bout them samsung memory. good catch.
and the case...... school grant money burning a hole in his pocket. hes not trying to save a buck, its.... his precious.....
and the reason we didnt go with samsung drives was I thought the vote was still out on them since they got bought out.
aside from all that, all should work well and suit his needs?
That bulky case just seems like a gaudy waste to me but if he likes it and has extra money sure. The R4 is an amazing case, though
The Samsung SSD is certainly better respected than the Intel drive for reliability. Samsung's HDD division, which is the division that was bought out, is still producing the same HDDs, but with a sticker on them that says Seagate. The gigabyte 670 offers better cooling performance and is quieter. The 620w PSU is modular and provides more power than he needs for possible future upgrades. It'll all work flawlessly. I'd recommend using the saved money to get a D14 for cooling, as well as some case fans.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Late last year I built a new pc and it was rock stable. I could run p95 & linX all day and logged tons of hours happily gaming.
Then back in late april, I:
Swapped my psu from a Corsair HX 850 to a Seasonic X-750
Sold my 3gb gtx 580 and used the HD3000 in my cpu
Swapped my case from a Corsair 650D to a 550D
However, I missed gaming on my pc so I bought a used EVGA GTX 280 SC to get me through the summer. Of course, when I put the gtx 280 in, I did the usual stuff: disable igpu in bios, set primary boot display to pci-e, uninstall intel igpu drivers and then install nvidia drivers. On my case I've got the front door wide open (nothing in front of the fans) with the side and top covers removed so that temps are great.
Rarely (maybe once every two weeks), while playing Team Fortress 2, the screen would go black and I'd have to restart the pc manually. It was so rare, I didn't really think much of it at the time and every time it would happen I'd just change to a different gfx driver to see if that would fix it. Then I started back playing BF3 and was occasionally having the same issue. Finally fed up, I decided that I wanted to solve this issue before October when I plan to upgrade my case & videocard (I'd prefer to know what's wrong before I start back upgrading). Last week I re-installed windows thinking that the issue was fixed, but today while playing BF3 I got a brief grey screen and then it went to the black screen where I have to manually restart the system.
My system is still rock stable with prime 95 & linx, my psu voltages look normal (12v rail shows 12.2v in the bios though), Unigine Heaven ran fine all night long, and system temps seem fine, so I'm thinking that the old videocard is the culprit. I do sometimes notice the occasional flickering texture in BF3, but it seems to be in the same map location every time and I think it's the game's engine trying to overlap textures or something. I've tried various beta and official nvidia drivers. When I open the windows event-viewer after a crash, it just says event-id 41, kernel-power (which probably happened when I pressed the restart button during the black screen). OCCT's gpu test doesn't seem to detect any artifacts though. Any ideas?
edit: specs:
Intel 2600k @ 4.5ghz | Noctua NH-D14 | Asus P8Z68V-Pro GEN3 | 8GB G.Skill Ripjaws X | Intel 160GB 320 Series ssd | EVGA GTX 280 SC | Seasonic X-750 | Corsair 550D | X-Fi Titanium HD | Samsung SH-222BB | Win 7 Pro 64-bit
Then back in late april, I:
Swapped my psu from a Corsair HX 850 to a Seasonic X-750
Sold my 3gb gtx 580 and used the HD3000 in my cpu
Swapped my case from a Corsair 650D to a 550D
However, I missed gaming on my pc so I bought a used EVGA GTX 280 SC to get me through the summer. Of course, when I put the gtx 280 in, I did the usual stuff: disable igpu in bios, set primary boot display to pci-e, uninstall intel igpu drivers and then install nvidia drivers. On my case I've got the front door wide open (nothing in front of the fans) with the side and top covers removed so that temps are great.
Rarely (maybe once every two weeks), while playing Team Fortress 2, the screen would go black and I'd have to restart the pc manually. It was so rare, I didn't really think much of it at the time and every time it would happen I'd just change to a different gfx driver to see if that would fix it. Then I started back playing BF3 and was occasionally having the same issue. Finally fed up, I decided that I wanted to solve this issue before October when I plan to upgrade my case & videocard (I'd prefer to know what's wrong before I start back upgrading). Last week I re-installed windows thinking that the issue was fixed, but today while playing BF3 I got a brief grey screen and then it went to the black screen where I have to manually restart the system.
My system is still rock stable with prime 95 & linx, my psu voltages look normal (12v rail shows 12.2v in the bios though), Unigine Heaven ran fine all night long, and system temps seem fine, so I'm thinking that the old videocard is the culprit. I do sometimes notice the occasional flickering texture in BF3, but it seems to be in the same map location every time and I think it's the game's engine trying to overlap textures or something. I've tried various beta and official nvidia drivers. When I open the windows event-viewer after a crash, it just says event-id 41, kernel-power (which probably happened when I pressed the restart button during the black screen). OCCT's gpu test doesn't seem to detect any artifacts though. Any ideas?
edit: specs:
Intel 2600k @ 4.5ghz | Noctua NH-D14 | Asus P8Z68V-Pro GEN3 | 8GB G.Skill Ripjaws X | Intel 160GB 320 Series ssd | EVGA GTX 280 SC | Seasonic X-750 | Corsair 550D | X-Fi Titanium HD | Samsung SH-222BB | Win 7 Pro 64-bit
Hey guys have a small issue:
I just brought my 120hz monitor back out for use as my secondary monitor. I tried BF3 on my main display (U3011) and kept Precision, CPU-Z, and real temp up on my secondary. In Precision I noticed that there was no base clock or boost clock marker and and the the GPUs were running at 705mhz. I thought that was odd so I restarted my computer and did the same setup as listed above. This time the markers were back. Load up BF3 and play as normal and see that the GPUs are running at the boost clock through the Precision overlay, except now my secondary monitor goes black. It's still on though (blue led on monitor indicating activity). I exit BF3 and secondary monitor and the monitoring programs come back up.
Pretty annoying and not sure what to do to fix this..
It's setup like this, plugged into the two DVI ports...
Edit: Disabling Aero may have done the trick.
I just brought my 120hz monitor back out for use as my secondary monitor. I tried BF3 on my main display (U3011) and kept Precision, CPU-Z, and real temp up on my secondary. In Precision I noticed that there was no base clock or boost clock marker and and the the GPUs were running at 705mhz. I thought that was odd so I restarted my computer and did the same setup as listed above. This time the markers were back. Load up BF3 and play as normal and see that the GPUs are running at the boost clock through the Precision overlay, except now my secondary monitor goes black. It's still on though (blue led on monitor indicating activity). I exit BF3 and secondary monitor and the monitoring programs come back up.
Pretty annoying and not sure what to do to fix this..
It's setup like this, plugged into the two DVI ports...
Edit: Disabling Aero may have done the trick.
I was told by someone that the Samsungs are no more and replaced by Seagate drives. At least on the 2TB F4 model.
I'm still looking at replacements, but it'll probably be something like:
WD Blue 500GB
WD Blue 1TB (New 1TB platter)
Hitachi 2TB
Jury's still out.
Sounds like a wonky card to me. Did you try downclocking the card by 15% seeing if you run into issues? Inspect the back of the card for damage as well.
I think only Dual Link DVI / DP can run true 120Hz at 1080.
Maybe 1.4a HDMI can do it or something, I'm not an expert on that stuff.
JustProgress
Member
Is that normal for my GPU? I'm kinda scared. Well, that's when I alt-tabbed from Sleeping Dogs with the high res texture pack and all.
What part normal? Everything looks fine to me. Temps are a tad high but its more your taste.
JustProgress
Member
Hey guys have a small issue:
I just brought my 120hz monitor back out for use as my secondary monitor. I tried BF3 on my main display (U3011) and kept Precision, CPU-Z, and real temp up on my secondary. In Precision I noticed that there was no base clock or boost clock marker and and the the GPUs were running at 705mhz. I thought that was odd so I restarted my computer and did the same setup as listed above. This time the markers were back. Load up BF3 and play as normal and see that the GPUs are running at the boost clock through the Precision overlay, except now my secondary monitor goes black. It's still on though (blue led on monitor indicating activity). I exit BF3 and secondary monitor and the monitoring programs come back up.
Pretty annoying and not sure what to do to fix this..
It's setup like this, plugged into the two DVI ports...
Wow, I'm really surprised nVidia hasn't fixed this. Maybe it isn't fixable. Anyways, when you have 2 monitors plugged in, the cards never downclock to their lowest 2D state which makes them run at like half (at least one runs at half clocks). You need to look up nVidia Inspector's Multi Display Power Saver. It's a huge pain in the ass, but you need to manually add each program you want to run at full clocks and everything else is forced to be at 2d.
MagicWithEarvin
Member
I was just worried that my GPU shot up from 30 to 78c in about 20 minutes of play with Sleeping Dogs. Reading around, that seems normal with a GPU-intensive game such as SD with the high res texture pack. I upped the fan curve to 50% after that.
JustProgress
Member
Yeah, I set my fan curve to near exponential. The fans gun but it never gets super hot. A trade-off really, but your card isn't going to get ruined unless its 90+
MagicWithEarvin
Member
Yeah, it's all worth it if games will look that good @_@
As long as I'm hovering just about at 75c-78c I'm not going to worry. What are some other games that will make my GPU work hard, play hard?
As long as I'm hovering just about at 75c-78c I'm not going to worry. What are some other games that will make my GPU work hard, play hard?
JustProgress
Member
I have SLI 580 so it's probably gunna run hotter than yours but Witcher 2, Crysis at Enthusiast, Stalker Pripyat for some reason, GTA IV with mods, Saints Row 3 in DX11 max, Max Payne at max, off the top my head.
Screaming Fist
Member
This is the monitor I am getting for my build:
ViewSonic VX2453mh-LED Black 23.6" http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824116479
After the reset the cards run at their normal boost clocks i.e. 1045mhz when gaming. The card appears to be downclocking fine -- right now it's at 324mhz and that's with the Broncos/Steelers game on the second screen and me typing on my main.
Also looks like disabling Aero may have fixed the issue I had with the second monitor going dark.
MagicWithEarvin
Member
What is everyone's take on "page file" for Windows 7? I've got 8GB of RAM, but I'm reading differing opinions on setting a page file for optimum performance.
My expert opinion is: Yo leave that shit on
Sometimes 8GB isn't enough and Windows 7/8 loves to store random shit (preload) in your RAM.
Grab an SSD when you can
MagicWithEarvin
Member
Thanks dawg.
Let me ask you something else: why is Starcraft II running like crap for me, even just at High settings with V-Sync off? There has to be some stuff I messed up in the BIOS (3570k OC'd to 4.2GHz, EVGA 660ti).
Let me ask you something else: why is Starcraft II running like crap for me, even just at High settings with V-Sync off? There has to be some stuff I messed up in the BIOS (3570k OC'd to 4.2GHz, EVGA 660ti).
Make sure you turn off some shader or lighting thing from Very High / High to Medium.
It completely kills performance on some maps. I forgot what it is. Hopefully that does it.
Crucial SSD's are Amazon's Gold Box Deal of the Day. (128GB = $79.99, 256GB = $164.99, 512GB = $349.99)
Incredible deals. And unfortunately, I'm flat broke until Friday.
Incredible deals. And unfortunately, I'm flat broke until Friday.
MagicWithEarvin
Member
Crucial SSD's are Amazon's Gold Box Deal of the Day.
Incredible deals. And unfortunately, I'm flat broke until Friday.
I might jump on that 128GB and move my Windows 7 on it.
Crucial SSD's are Amazon's Gold Box Deal of the Day. (128GB = $79.99, 256GB = $164.99, 512GB = $349.99)
Incredible deals. And unfortunately, I'm flat broke until Friday.
Those are great prices. I nabbed an M4 256GB for $179.99 from Amazon about 2 weeks ago and I thought I got a good deal then.
legacyzero
Banned
YESS! Just waiting on UPS with the final box that's out for delivery.
- Status