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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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Anyone know what I should do here to improve performance of my 3570k + 660 ti?

D8C07487-C957-4867-9A34-02C984A04537-1721-000001F7C3015F23.jpg
 

metalshade

Member
Hi guys, been a while since I posted.
Thanks for helping me out with my first ever build, it is all great except for one thing.
After struggling with my Blu-ray playback stuttering for ages, I think the best thing for me to do is to just rip my Blu-rays to my HDD and play them back from there.
Question is, I have no idea how to do that...are there any decent free programs that let you do such a thing?
I already have VLC for the playback, I just need a free program to do the ripping.
(I also need to be able to have subtitles, my hearing is quite bad.)
I have a full version of DVD catalyst, but I dont believe that can rip Blu-rays.
Once I have that sorted, I will be able to relax a bit, this has been bugging me for ages, and because something is not functioning properly, I find it hard to just enjoy the rest of my PC.
Hope you guys can help, but I know this is not technically a hardware question.
 

longdi

Banned
Anyone know what I should do here to improve performance of my 3570k + 660 ti?

D8C07487-C957-4867-9A34-02C984A04537-1721-000001F7C3015F23.jpg

turn ai overclock to manual
up cpu turbo multiplier to 43x
up memory frequency to 1600
change/leave voltage as offset
voltage offset set as -0.0005v
set memory voltage to 1.5v.
go to digi vrm and change all LLC settings you see to 'regular'.

should be good.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
How does newegg usaully do on black friday? Is it worth waiting if I was building a pc?
Online stuff for black friday / cyber monday has felt lackluster. You should be able to snatch up some ok parts for cheap though, but probably not exactly what you want.
Anyone know what I should do here to improve performance of my 3570k + 660 ti?

D8C07487-C957-4867-9A34-02C984A04537-1721-000001F7C3015F23.jpg
See overclocking in OP
Hi guys, been a while since I posted.
Thanks for helping me out with my first ever build, it is all great except for one thing.
After struggling with my Blu-ray playback stuttering for ages, I think the best thing for me to do is to just rip my Blu-rays to my HDD and play them back from there.
Question is, I have no idea how to do that...are there any decent free programs that let you do such a thing?
I already have VLC for the playback, I just need a free program to do the ripping.
(I also need to be able to have subtitles, my hearing is quite bad.)
I have a full version of DVD catalyst, but I dont believe that can rip Blu-rays.
Once I have that sorted, I will be able to relax a bit, this has been bugging me for ages, and because something is not functioning properly, I find it hard to just enjoy the rest of my PC.
Hope you guys can help, but I know this is not technically a hardware question.
Have you tried a dedicated blu-ray software player yet?
I don't know.
 

metalshade

Member
Online stuff for black friday / cyber monday has felt lackluster. You should be able to snatch up some ok parts for cheap though, but probably not exactly what you want.

See overclocking in OP

Have you tried a dedicated blu-ray software player yet?
I don't know.

Cyberlink PowerDVD 10 came with my drive when I bought it, so I have that installed, but it is really awful software.
I tried the trial for another software, that had exactly the same problem, but I am certain that there is no hardware fault, so I am really stuck, so ripping seems to be my only answer.
 

Ceebs

Member
Hi guys, been a while since I posted.
Thanks for helping me out with my first ever build, it is all great except for one thing.
After struggling with my Blu-ray playback stuttering for ages, I think the best thing for me to do is to just rip my Blu-rays to my HDD and play them back from there.
Question is, I have no idea how to do that...are there any decent free programs that let you do such a thing?
I already have VLC for the playback, I just need a free program to do the ripping.
(I also need to be able to have subtitles, my hearing is quite bad.)
I have a full version of DVD catalyst, but I dont believe that can rip Blu-rays.
Once I have that sorted, I will be able to relax a bit, this has been bugging me for ages, and because something is not functioning properly, I find it hard to just enjoy the rest of my PC.
Hope you guys can help, but I know this is not technically a hardware question.

I use MakeMKV to rip the raw video into an MKV. You would have to convert from there unless you do not mind 20-30 gig video files.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
imo the storage hard drives should be changed. the samsung drives are rebranded seagate drives now and the 2TB F4 is a seagate green which is one of the worst storage drives out there. im not sure how the F3 is, that will depend on which seagate drive is inside.
Ah shit that's right you (I think) reminded me of that. Just Seagate and WD holding hands and price fixing now. At least SSDs are seeing innovation and competition.

The F3 seems to be this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148840
Which is $80.

The only thing remotely in the price range at 1TB to consider is the new 1TB platter Blue from WD @ $85: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236339&Tpk=WD10EZEX
Problem is insanely long seek times at the edge (even just averaging 20ms on 7200rpm?!!?), but it is quiet and has got some smart firmware and sick starting read speeds.

Next step up I see is a 1TB WD Black for $110.

Do you have any drives to recommend before I do some more research tomorrow?
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Was so pleased with my i3 2120's performance, I couldn't pull the trigger last week on Compusa's (Brick & Mortar) deal of the i7 2600k for 229.99.

Now this week they're advertising the i5 2500k for 149.99 and the i7 3770k for 259.99. Not sure my resolve will last another week. Obviously the i5 is really cheap and the i7 is not only just 77 watts, but the latency readings in Techreport's analysis are best of class.
 

longdi

Banned
Was so pleased with my i3 2120's performance, I couldn't pull the trigger last week on Compusa's (Brick & Mortar) deal of the i7 2600k for 229.99.

Now this week they're advertising the i5 2500k for 149.99 and the i7 3770k for 259.99. Not sure my resolve will last another week. Obviously the i5 is really cheap and the i7 is not only just 77 watts, but the latency readings in Techreport's analysis are best of class.

i will buy that for $260! great price.
the $150 i5 is also a rocker for games, but if you want to max out, i will buy i7 3770k! honestly it isnt $110 better but $260 is a good price.
dual cores can struggle with bf3 64p games
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Yeah. I've been reading some reviews on that 3770k. So it seems like as long as you don't touch the voltage (which is awful to do), you can hit around 4.4 or 4.5Ghz and the power consumption increase is very slight over stock settings (again, just don't touch voltage). It sounds like a champ. And I wouldn't have to even think about an upgrade until either my motherboard or CPU died.
 

Stubo

Member
turn ai overclock to manual
up cpu turbo multiplier to 43x
up memory frequency to 1600
change/leave voltage as offset
voltage offset set as -0.0005v
set memory voltage to 1.5v.
go to digi vrm and change all LLC settings you see to 'regular'.

should be good.
Edit: I've got my 3570k set to 4.2Ghz now, I left AI Overclock on Auto, hopefully it won't change anything back on its own.

Ran Prime 95 for over 15 minutes and none of the cores have gone above 70 degrees on a hot day, this should stay comfortably cool for my tastes :)
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Yeah. I've been reading some reviews on that 3770k. So it seems like as long as you don't touch the voltage (which is awful to do), you can hit around 4.4 or 4.5Ghz and the power consumption increase is very slight over stock settings (again, just don't touch voltage). It sounds like a champ. And I wouldn't have to even think about an upgrade until either my motherboard or CPU died.
Worthwhile upgrade imo. I personally took a 2600K used at $230, since I couldn't get in on one of those sales. Cruising at 4.3Ghz real nicely atm.
 

Cindres

Vied for a tag related to cocks, so here it is.
The Samsung spin point f3 I have on my new rig makes noise. Is this at all normal? I mean it just sounds like it's working but from experience all HDD noises are bad...
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Cyberlink PowerDVD 10 came with my drive when I bought it, so I have that installed, but it is really awful software.
I tried the trial for another software, that had exactly the same problem, but I am certain that there is no hardware fault, so I am really stuck, so ripping seems to be my only answer.

What refresh rate are you playing back at? You'll get stuttering if you play back at 60Hz due to pull down. You want 1080p/24 if connecting to a TV that'll accept it, or a multiple of it. If you rip the bluray and play it back you might not get rid of the stuttering

It's still a good idea if you have space, simply for convenience. I did that for my DVDs and finally have a laptop with a bluray drive so I can start playing with MakeMKV etc
 
Hey guys here is my current rig:

AMD 1055t watercooled and overclocked to 4.3 GHz
4 GB DDR3 ram
600 PSU

I need a new graphics card. I was thinking of a GTX 680 but it's kinda expensive in Canada ATM, what's the difference between a GTX 670 and 680 anyway? I will be playings games at 1080p. Is GTX 670 a better buy for me?

So now its between GTx 680 and a 7970. I want to future proof my system and be able to run Ps4 and xbox next titles.
 
Why a 680 over a 670? The performance gains are minimal for a fairly significant outlay.

To be honest, I havenèt checked the benchmarks at all. I am really busy these days, thats why I am asking you for help :)

Whatès from with a 7970 though, I like that it has more v ram.
 

Thraktor

Member
Now tharkotar is saying a ATI 7000 series card is a better buy because it has an extra gig of Vram....who to believe? I want to futureproof my system a bit, is 7970 the best option?

Well, I don't know if the extra gig of RAM will make that much if a difference in the long run, my point was more about the bandwidth limitation on the 660ti (which isn't the case on the 670).
 

Bear

Member
I just replaced my PSU after my last one died, and none of my USB ports work anymore. I'm assuming that my motherboard was damaged by my last PSU, but I was wondering if there are any options I should consider before replacing it.

Everything else seems to be fine, it has no problems booting to desktop, but I can't do anything after that since all my kb/m use USB.
 

kharma45

Member
they both retail for the same price. give me a definitive answer please! And keep in mind I have a 600w PSU and a 1055t :/

600w is plenty for both, and your OCd 1055t won't bottleneck either.

For me it'd be the 7970, something like this http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102982 which gets good reviews from what I read, although a 670 for the same money isn't going to be a bad card and you'll get Borderlands 2 free http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125423

Whichever you go for I'd make sure it's a non-reference one to have the best chance of getting a good overclock. The more you pay the better the cooler, that Sapphire one is the cheapest custom cooled ones I saw, there is an HIS one for CA$400.
 

Branson

Member
So, I think my SSD just died. It's a Crucial M4 60gb and when I boot the computer I get a black screen after the bios menu startup and a blinking curser. Not a huge deal since it was running windows only but it doesn't show up in the bios either. So...that's probably whats wrong right?
 

longdi

Banned
Edit: I've got my 3570k set to 4.2Ghz now, I left AI Overclock on Auto, hopefully it won't change anything back on its own.

Ran Prime 95 for over 15 minutes and none of the cores have gone above 70 degrees on a hot day, this should stay comfortably cool for my tastes :)

leaving things on auto runs the chance of giving too much voltage when not needed.
3570k a 4.2ghz should not require more than 1.18~1.21v on the vcore and 1.5v on the 1600mhz memory.
 

cametall

Member
If going with the 660 ti, EVGA.
If going with the 7950, XFX (lifetime warranty).

The obsessive research I did before buying my HD 7950 pushed me away from XFX and ASUS for the 7950.

The XFX didn't have the best cooling system and there are ASUS 7950s floating around with poor heatsink to GPU contact causing poor overclocks or bad cards in general.

I ended up stuck between the Gigabyte, Sapphire OC/Vapor, and HIS IceQ.

I went with the Sapphire Vapor-X, but almost went with the HIS for the excellent cooling system. The OC'd Sapphires seem to have better "binned" GPUs and PCB. The OC version is on a 7970 PCB IIRC and the Vapor-X is on a custom 7950 PCB.
 

XAL

Member
So i had a ASUS P8Z68-V PRO with a i5 2500K (mobo got fried) so I upgraded to a ASUS Crosshair V with an AMD Phenom 2 6core 1100T Black.


This was an upgrade yes?

D:
 
600w is plenty for both, and your OCd 1055t won't bottleneck either.

For me it'd be the 7970, something like this http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102982 which gets good reviews from what I read, although a 670 for the same money isn't going to be a bad card and you'll get Borderlands 2 free http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125423

Whichever you go for I'd make sure it's a non-reference one to have the best chance of getting a good overclock. The more you pay the better the cooler, that Sapphire one is the cheapest custom cooled ones I saw, there is an HIS one for CA$400.

thanks for the help!
 

Branson

Member
So, I think my SSD just died. It's a Crucial M4 60gb and when I boot the computer I get a black screen after the bios menu startup and a blinking curser. Not a huge deal since it was running windows only but it doesn't show up in the bios either. So...that's probably whats wrong right?


Any help guys? Sorry. Just a bit frustrated. Spending like $300 next week on a head unit install for my car I'm hoping this is just a faulty SSD that I can replace.
 
Any help guys? Sorry. Just a bit frustrated. Spending like $300 next week on a head unit install for my car I'm hoping this is just a faulty SSD that I can replace.

If you haven't already, try some simple stuff like connecting it to a different SATA port and/or using a different cable. Test if it is a Windows issue by booting from the installation DVD or a USB drive. You should also try to find another computer to test the drive on. That would prove for certain whether it is a drive issue.

If it isn't showing in the BIOS, that probably means the drive is bad. Troubleshooting is the only way to be sure!
 

Branson

Member
If you haven't already, try some simple stuff like connecting it to a different SATA port and/or using a different cable. Test if it is a Windows issue by booting from the installation DVD or a USB drive. You should also try to find another computer to test the drive on. That would prove for certain whether it is a drive issue.

If it isn't showing in the BIOS, that probably means the drive is bad. Troubleshooting is the only way to be sure!

Thanks. All of this shit just hit at once, car radio went out, SSD seems bad, power steering on my car is acting up, what else can break this year for me? Ugh
Lol
 

Garou

Member
Any help guys? Sorry. Just a bit frustrated. Spending like $300 next week on a head unit install for my car I'm hoping this is just a faulty SSD that I can replace.

Did you have the latest firmware installed? There was a bug that made the drives unable to boot after a certain amount of startups. In that case just download the updater on a different PC, burn the file to disc and update through that, then everything should be back to normal.
 

Stubo

Member
leaving things on auto runs the chance of giving too much voltage when not needed.
3570k a 4.2ghz should not require more than 1.18~1.21v on the vcore and 1.5v on the 1600mhz memory.
The only thing I'm unsure about is that if I set voltages manually will they be applied constantly, or will they rise and fall with the clock as they do at the moment?

Edit: I have the offset set to -0.05V if that makes any difference, it's running fine between 1.15 and 1.2v at the moment.
 
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