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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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What's a good affordable 2TB now? I went to buy a Samsung F4 and found out it's out of stock. He told me it's because Seagate bought Samsung's HD division and any new orders are just from Seagate.

Caviar Blacks and Greens are out of the question. There aren't any 2TB Blues.

edit: I saw a listing for a 2TB Samsung R54/32M, which I think is the HD204UI. Are F4s the same as F4EGs?

edit2: Apparently, they're just rebadged Seagate drives. Eurgh.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
OK guys, I'm in a pinch. I'd like to get some of those shopping done before 15th when I'll have to pay tax to amazon.

Long story short, it has been YEARS since I had to pay for parts for PC. And this time around, instead of trying to get stuff for free at work. I've decided to go completely retail and get stuff that probably don't have bugs like what I have been using.

Why am I doing this upgrade? I have recently bought a 2560x1440 korean IPS monitor and I think my old setup can no longer hold up to this new beast. I think, heck might as well as get a full rework on my PC.

Here's what I need (with what I want to buy in parentheses):
CPU (I5 3570K, 215$ on amazon)
MOBO (ASRock Z77 Pro4, 110$ on newegg)
Memory (G.Skill Ripjaws X series 2x8gb, 95$ on newegg)
GPU (GTX670 gigabyte windforce oc model most likely, 400$ on amazon)
SO all of the add together is about 820 dollars. It's already a bit more than what I want to spend but this should be a pretty sweet box!

Is there any suggestion on change of parts that would significantly improve? Maybe the memory or the mobo choice isn't good enough? Any bottle neck? (I already have 2 ssds, might even consider raiding them lol) Power supply and case isn't a problem either.

Thanks!
Just get the 30nm Green Samsung 2x4GB kit for RAM.
What's a good affordable 2TB now? I went to buy a Samsung F4 and found out it's out of stock. He told me it's because Seagate bought Samsung's HD division and any new orders are just from Seagate.

Caviar Blacks and Greens are out of the question. There aren't any 2TB Blues.

edit: I saw a listing for a 2TB Samsung R54/32M, which I think is the HD204UI. Are F4s the same as F4EGs?

edit2: Apparently, they're just rebadged Seagate drives. Eurgh.
It's all shit right now. Same thing I looked at.

For what you can buy TODAY you are completely screwed. Only other option is a Seagate or a Hitachi. Both of which aren't reviewed great. The Hitachi at least has a 3 yr warranty. Seagate has 1.

Or buy two 1TB Blues I listed in the OP and bet if they are good or not. 1TB single platter is nice though.
If you can find a 2TB Red you can get that and turn off TLER for desktop use.
 

Lucis

Member
Just get the 30nm Green Samsung 2x4GB kit for RAM.

I dont think 8gb is enough for me. The PC will not be just for gaming and I am looking for future upgrades to 32g and possible ramdisk for stuff I do on the side.

The samsung 20nm green kit does look pretty cheap and great in performance though.
 
Oh crap, just scored a deal for a slightly used 2TB Caviar Black for $100. Picking it up after work. Lots of good feedback and no negative since 2007 so it's all looking good.

Awesome for me because he told me some other guy was gonna get it the next day.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I dont think 8gb is enough for me. The PC will not be just for gaming and I am looking for future upgrades to 32g and possible ramdisk for stuff I do on the side.

The samsung 20nm green kit does look pretty cheap and great in performance though.
Ah, didn't catch the 8GB sticks. Yeah the Samsung stuff clocks to 2133/2333 so it's nice.
Oh crap, just scored a deal for a slightly used 2TB Caviar Black for $100. Picking it up after work. Lots of good feedback and no negative since 2007 so it's all looking good.

Awesome for me because he told me some other guy was gonna get it the next day.
Good deal. Just know it's loud :)
So, the new GTX660 cards are out now. Thinking about getting this card to replace my aging GTX460 (two years old, heh). What does GAF think about that card?
Good card. I can't go back to a blower fan on a GPU though, too loud for me.
http://www.ebuyer.com/395662-msi-ge...-dvi-hdmi-pci-e-graphics-card-n660-tf-2gd5-oc
is what I'd take over it.
 
Hi guy's got a few questions about a build I'm working on. My idea is to make a good HTPC/mini gaming rig for when I'm kicked to the couch. I want to go mITX with a evga 650sc. I'm having a real hard time finding the right case/psu/mobo combo I need to make this a reality. Any help would be appreciated.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Hi guy's got a few questions about a build I'm working on. My idea is to make a good HTPC/mini gaming rig for when I'm kicked to the couch. I want to go mITX with a evga 650sc. I'm having a real hard time finding the right case/psu/mobo combo I need to make this a reality. Any help would be appreciated.
Does anything in the past 1-3 pages catch your eye? ;)
 

Xdrive05

Member
Gaf, how "safe" is it to upgrade a motherboard, CPU and RAM on the same Windows 7 installation and same SSD/HDD setup? Can I do that without losing my Windows activation? And would there be any major software or drivers issues going from an AMD system to a new Intel system?

I ask because I spent a lot of time getting my Windows set up properly for the SSD, all the updates, etc., and I'd rather not do all of that over again with my new builld if possible.

Thanks in advance! :)
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Gaf, how "safe" is it to upgrade a motherboard, CPU and RAM on the same Windows 7 installation and same SSD/HDD setup? Can I do that without losing my Windows activation? And would there be any major software or drivers issues going from an AMD system to a new Intel system?

I ask because I spent a lot of time getting my Windows set up properly for the SSD, all the updates, etc., and I'd rather not do all of that over again with my new builld if possible.

Thanks in advance! :)
This isn't my strong suit, but I think the Windows OEM copy is tied to your motherboard chipset. If you bought retail you should be ok, but might need to call to verify again.
 

Xdrive05

Member
This isn't my strong suit, but I think the Windows OEM copy is tied to your motherboard chipset. If you bought retail you should be ok, but might need to call to verify again.

I bought mine from a campus bookstore for $30 iirc. I know I have already used it about a half dozen times over the last 3 or 4 years (always let me activate), so I bet my key limit is up, or very close to it. Last time I used it was 3 weeks ago.

Well, I should bite the bullet and hope it let's me get one more activation out of this disc. Thanks much for the info.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I bought mine from a campus bookstore for $30 iirc. I know I have already used it about a half dozen times over the last 3 or 4 years (always let me activate), so I bet my key limit is up, or very close to it. Last time I used it was 3 weeks ago.

Well, I should bite the bullet and hope it let's me get one more activation out of this disc. Thanks much for the info.
Should be ok then I hope. Try an upgrade install then upgrade that install if that option is there.
 

1-D_FTW

Member
This isn't my strong suit, but I think the Windows OEM copy is tied to your motherboard chipset. If you bought retail you should be ok, but might need to call to verify again.

They go by a point system. Once you get past a certain point level, you get the invalidation bit. The thing about the motherboard is, onboard LAN change is like 4 points. So that's why motherboard changes are such triggers.


I bought mine from a campus bookstore for $30 iirc. I know I have already used it about a half dozen times over the last 3 or 4 years (always let me activate), so I bet my key limit is up, or very close to it. Last time I used it was 3 weeks ago.

Well, I should bite the bullet and hope it let's me get one more activation out of this disc. Thanks much for the info.

You're going to have an issue with a motherboard change unless it's replaced with an identical item. But it's really not an issue. Just call up the number, enter in the 54 digit code that appears on your screen, re-enter a new 54 code number they read back, and when they ask how many computers it's been installed on, say 1. The whole thing is automated and considering it's MS, shockingly painless.
 

Xdrive05

Member
They go by a point system. Once you get past a certain point level, you get the invalidation bit. The thing about the motherboard is, onboard LAN change is like 4 points. So that's why motherboard changes are such triggers.




You're going to have an issue with a motherboard change unless it's replaced with an identical item. But it's really not an issue. Just call up the number, enter in the 54 digit code that appears on your screen, re-enter a new 54 code number they read back, and when they ask how many computers it's been installed on, say 1. The whole thing is automated and considering it's MS, shockingly painless.

Okay, sounds safe enough. So then how about software or drivers issues going from AMD to Intel? Is that something to be worried about?
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Okay, sounds safe enough. So then how about software or drivers issues going from AMD to Intel? Is that something to be worried about?

No. Although I would certainly do a clean install of Windows on the new machine. W7 is pretty amazing at its ability to function from an old install on new hardware, but I certainly wouldn't trust it. Do a clean install and any and all problems will be avoided.
 

kafiend

Member
My original post here - http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=42097701&postcount=19169

tl;dr - 660 ti unstable unless underclocked.


Try upping the voltage a bit.

Thanks for that. It did help although the card remained unstable to a lower amount.

TBH, I was unhappy that a relatively expensive card would arrive semi-broken and required fiddling with to its speed detriment to become usable.
I was hoping (though not wanting) that someone here might have experienced something similar and say its broke send it back or point out that it was another PC component likely at fault.

Its going back to be replaced and I'll report back when the new one arrives and say if its working fine or just the same :/
 

Xdrive05

Member
No. Although I would certainly do a clean install of Windows on the new machine. W7 is pretty amazing at its ability to function from an old install on new hardware, but I certainly wouldn't trust it. Do a clean install and any and all problems will be avoided.

Thanks again. Should do it by next weekend. I'll report back if any windows activation issues so the forum can know to watch out for it.
 

Exuro

Member
Alright I think this SSD is the one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ref=pe_173920_25808360_pe_b1/?ASIN=B0077CR60Q#productPromotions

Can get it for about $80 flat. Thoughts?

EDIT: Actually I guess that one is just the drive right? I would need a bracket dealio to screw it in right? There any plain jane ones cauze that particular model has a 8 dollar coupon.

EDIT2: Nevermind I happen to have a 2.5-3.5 bracket thing from my case. Those are pretty universal right? I've got plenty of screws for it.
 

Ledsen

Member
Alright I think this SSD is the one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ref=pe_173920_25808360_pe_b1/?ASIN=B0077CR60Q#productPromotions

Can get it for about $80 flat. Thoughts?

EDIT: Actually I guess that one is just the drive right? I would need a bracket dealio to screw it in right? There any plain jane ones cauze that particular model has a 8 dollar coupon.

EDIT2: Nevermind I happen to have a 2.5-3.5 bracket thing from my case. Those are pretty universal right? I've got plenty of screws for it.

You don't need to fasten it, it doesn't move or heat up. I just taped mine so it wouldn't slide out when i moved the case :)
 

Exuro

Member
You don't need to fasten it, it doesn't move or heat up. I just taped mine so it wouldn't slide out when i moved the case :)
That's good. I don't need anything else with it right? It'll work like a hdd where I just plug it in, start up my machine with an iso and install it on there?
 

Violater

Member

hooray future proofing!
The card is going to hang over the length of the MB I think though.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=13-131-614&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=true&SelectedRating=&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&chkPurchaseMark=on&Keywords=%28keywords%29&Page=2#scrollFullInfo

Yea Its a pretty old system

Additionally I need to get another front intake fan for the case though wish I could get a quiet one with a filter.
 

scogoth

Member
hooray future proofing!
The card is going to hang over the length of the MB I think though.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=13-131-614&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=true&SelectedRating=&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&chkPurchaseMark=on&Keywords=%28keywords%29&Page=2#scrollFullInfo

Yea Its a pretty old system

Additionally I need to get another front intake fan for the case though wish I could get a quiet one with a filter.

Not that old! I have the same board with two 680s and they hang way over the end.
 

IMACOMPUTA

Member
Hi guys..

So i've never crossfired anything before.

Right now i have a sapphire TOXIC 6950 unlocked to a 6970.

If i want to crossfire do i need another sapphire TOXIC 6950 unlocked to a 6970? Or how does that all work?
 

t-ramp

Member
Or any other 6950 unlocked to 6970, right?
Sure.

Got my motherboard yesterday... It's a refurbished Asus P8P67 Pro, so hopefully it behaves. Haven't had a chance to test it yet. I'm kind of planning on making an assembly video for extra credit for a class, so I probably will set up a YouTube account... just bought t-ramp.net as well, so I might put some stuff there.
 

t-ramp

Member
What if i got another 6950 and couldn't unlock the shaders? Would that be a problem?
6950s and 6970s should CrossFire fine anyway, so it shouldn't matter. The 6970 might run at the 6950's level, so a slight loss in performance, although I'm not sure how that works with shaders.
 

AndyD

aka andydumi
I just remembered that I need a heat sink too, since my current heat sink will go with the old cpu/mobo combo to become a desktop for my girlfriend.

the front page suggests cool master 212+ evo. It should be sufficient for i3570k right?
I am assuming this is the one? ;) http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/?tag=neogaf0e-20

gonna get it before tax kicks in! lol

You can also get this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

$10 less and the consensus is that its just as good.
 

knitoe

Member
6950s and 6970s should CrossFire fine anyway, so it shouldn't matter. The 6970 might run at the 6950's level, so a slight loss in performance, although I'm not sure how that works with shaders.

Nope. No performance lost. CF setup are good at load balancing between different cards and speeds. So, in his case, the unlock 6950 could be rendering 55% while the locked 6950 45%.
 

Hoplatee

Member
Is it possible to use your GTX670 to only passthrough the audio to a receiver and not make it another monitor as well? (Onkyo TX-SR608) Everything works fine but it just assumes I would also want to use it as a second monitor which I don't want to do - only when I want to game because then I will use my TV. Sometimes it won't do that and other times I suddenly have 2 monitors when I don't want it.

I probably missed some easy box that I should tick somewhere but I can't figure it out. I would love to use it as my audio source since the stuff I have connected on the receiver is 150000 times better than my 2.1 set I have on my pc.
 

ink4n3

Member
Is it possible to use your GTX670 to only passthrough the audio to a receiver and not make it another monitor as well? (Onkyo TX-SR608) Everything works fine but it just assumes I would also want to use it as a second monitor which I don't want to do - only when I want to game because then I will use my TV. Sometimes it won't do that and other times I suddenly have 2 monitors when I don't want it.

I probably missed some easy box that I should tick somewhere but I can't figure it out. I would love to use it as my audio source since the stuff I have connected on the receiver is 150000 times better than my 2.1 set I have on my pc.

Wait what? Why are you using your video card to pass audio? Hook up your receiver to your optical out.
 

Hoplatee

Member
for sound, go into playback devices, and right click the audio source you want, and set as default. For the monitor setting, go to display settings, and choose which monitor you want as primary
yEgFQ.jpg

hope this helps :)

Thanks. Will try it out later when I am able to check it out. I will slap myself if it just was as simple as this. :p

Wait what? Why are you using your video card to pass audio? Hook up your receiver to your optical out.

I only had terrible experiences that way with my old PC and a proper audio card. And sometimes I do want to have my receiver/tv act as second monitor for gaming. I just want it to be >always< audio and 80% of the time not as second monitor. Really annoying when I suddenly have two desktops.
 

Jawmuncher

Member
Your Current Specs: New Computer
Budget: 0-1000 USA (Price Range Flexible since my needs might not be obtainable at that price point)
Main Use: Light Gaming-1, Gaming-5, Emulation (PS2/Wii)-5, Video Editing-5, HD Streaming-2, 3D work-0, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)-2.
Monitor Resolution: Whatever is recommended for TV set up
SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Is Crysis 2 on High still the benchmark?
Looking to reuse any parts?:NO
When will you build?: Dec 2012 to Jan 2013
Will you be overclocking?: NO
Case: Would like a Horizontal case for all of this if possible (Want to hook it up to the TV along with the Game Systems.

Sadly this is about as much as I can supply.
I've been looking at this thread for awhile now, and just can't by myself figure out what would work best especially with emualtion in mind. However building the PC wouldn't be a issue since i'll be having help from friends in that regard. Also No SSD for me.

I'd appreciate any help on this project. Since getting a new PC which to me can feel more like a game console is something I've wanted to do for awhile.
 
Hey fellow gaffers i need some advice :)

My current system is a Laptop from 2009 with following specs:

Intel Core 2 Duo 2,1GHz
Nvidia Geforce GT 120M
4GB DDR2 Ram
Windows 7 Professional 32 Bit

With this system i cant play GW2 on low settings at 1368x720 at 15 FPS and DOTA 2 at the same Resolution at 25-35 FPS.

Today i got a PC (for free) with the following specs:

AMD Dual Core with 2,6GHz (dont know the real Name of the CPU yet)
Nvidia Geforce 8800GTS
6GB DDR2 Ram
Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit

How much do you think will this PC improves the gaming experience for GW2 and DOTA 2 at the same Resolution? I have no idea how good or bad that PC is, i just now that canyourunit says i have the recommended specs for the games. Thanks in advance :)
 
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