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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
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tonychestnut
Neo Member
First post ever! Only fitting to have it in the PC build thread since I just completed my first build. I recently got a Crucial M4 128gb for $150. My build is already complete, with Windows 7 installed onto a hard drive with files and programs as well. Should I just do complete re install of windows on the SSD or can I keep my current files and programs on the hard drive and transfer over the OS to the SSD? Is this even possible?
BoobPhysics101
Banned
I caught the PC performance virus. All subroutines have been altered.
Can love bloom on the battlefield?
Looks like I'll have to fork out ~$150 for each of my next 2 or 3 2TB drives.
I appreciate you guys for sure. I can see how it would be annoying at times as well, but I couldn't have done it without this thread. I have an extra copy of LC guardian of light if any of you would like it.
I do have a question though. As I've messed with oc'ing through trial and lots of error, is it true that 42 works fine without changing the voltage? I went in to my p8z67 and just changed the multiplier to 44. It worked pretty well, but crashes were more frequent, even randomly when web browsing.
I went back to 42 and it never really crashes, so I'm assuming that I need to adjust the voltage? It might be best that leave it as is though...How high can you go with water cooling? I was thinking of doing that when the 680 comes out. What is the latest guess on when that is coming out?
I do have a question though. As I've messed with oc'ing through trial and lots of error, is it true that 42 works fine without changing the voltage? I went in to my p8z67 and just changed the multiplier to 44. It worked pretty well, but crashes were more frequent, even randomly when web browsing.
I went back to 42 and it never really crashes, so I'm assuming that I need to adjust the voltage? It might be best that leave it as is though...How high can you go with water cooling? I was thinking of doing that when the 680 comes out. What is the latest guess on when that is coming out?
Anyone using a Zalman fan or have any impressions on the ZALMAN CNPS 7500?
I'm thinking about grabbing one of these since my stock AMD fan is way too loud. Does the job of course...but could stand to have something better/quieter when at full load. Looking for a heatsink for a Phenom II X4 955 thats both quiet yet effective in cooling.
EDIT: Actually looking back at the OP and checking current prices, the Cooler Master 212+ seems to be 10 dollars cheaper and possibly a better buy.
I'm thinking about grabbing one of these since my stock AMD fan is way too loud. Does the job of course...but could stand to have something better/quieter when at full load. Looking for a heatsink for a Phenom II X4 955 thats both quiet yet effective in cooling.
EDIT: Actually looking back at the OP and checking current prices, the Cooler Master 212+ seems to be 10 dollars cheaper and possibly a better buy.
Want to post in support of the EVGA GTX 570 2.5gb model. It's pretty cheap and the extra vram has come in more handy than I thought it would, especially with games like GTAIV and Rage.
Considering the GTX580 1.5gb is a hundred bucks more, I'd recommend the 2.5gig 570 over it for sure.
Considering the GTX580 1.5gb is a hundred bucks more, I'd recommend the 2.5gig 570 over it for sure.
You can clone your HDD to your SSD and go from there. Or clean install, either is fine.
4.2Ghz is a general clock that does well. The clunk guide in the OP is good, but add 0.05V to it's listed voltages. Generally 1.25V-1.3V for 4.4Ghz. Offset is best. Fixed works fine.
Zalman makes awful CPU coolers that are expensive and cut you. For that price you can get a 212 or 212 evo and even replace the fan. Make sure it will fit in your case.
It's not a given that running at 42 requires no voltage increase. If it stable for you, that's great. Make sure to run a stress test program, like Prime95, to be relatively sure.
If it crashes at higher speeds, the cpu probably means to need to increase the voltage. It's probably most easy to set voltage to 1.35V, and then, change the multiplier until computer crash. Afterward, decrease speed and run some test. Once it's stable, you can try decreasing the voltage until to get the perfect numbers for speed and voltage. If 1.35V too high for you, just repeat above with lower number, under 1.30V fairly safe number long term.
Initially when I built my PC I set "Optimized defaults" in BIOS and didn't bother checking anything else, after 2½ years the PC had frozen maybe once every month. Last night I checked the RAM values and they were 9-9-9-24, but the specifications for my RAM says 7-7-7-20. Do you think this is the cause of the freezes? which brings me to:
I'm going to OC my Phenom II X4 955 3,2 to 3,8, adjusting only the multiplier and Vcore. Do I need to manually set my RAM values for this?
I'm going to OC my Phenom II X4 955 3,2 to 3,8, adjusting only the multiplier and Vcore. Do I need to manually set my RAM values for this?
This has to be the best place to ask before I lose my tiny mind:
About this time last year I was having some serious issues with my PC - it started with all kinds of BSOD - particularly Memory Management and Paging errors - which I was led to believe were RAM related. The only thing, looking back, that I can remember changing on my PC was installing Motionjoy drivers.
I was constantly crashing in games, constantly having to redownload and validate files on steam but somehow, somewhere, I fixed it. I've been trawling through old GAF threads looking for an answer but nothing as yet.
A year on - I'm having the same problems. Dustforce came out and I thought "this would be great with a control!" - and foolishly installed those drivers again. Countless BSOD, which after a complete reformat have, so far, stopped - but DOTA 2 is crashing, Skyrim is constantly crashing to desktop, I'm having to validate file after file on steam just to play games and whenever my PC loads up anything it sounds like it's going to die.
I've run CHKDSK, no errors, I've run the memory diagnostic on windows and it says "hardware fault detected." It's the exact same problem I had last year - I didn't tamper with any hardware to fix it though. Does anyone have any ideas at all? Registry stuff? BIOS stuff? I'll try anything.
About this time last year I was having some serious issues with my PC - it started with all kinds of BSOD - particularly Memory Management and Paging errors - which I was led to believe were RAM related. The only thing, looking back, that I can remember changing on my PC was installing Motionjoy drivers.
I was constantly crashing in games, constantly having to redownload and validate files on steam but somehow, somewhere, I fixed it. I've been trawling through old GAF threads looking for an answer but nothing as yet.
A year on - I'm having the same problems. Dustforce came out and I thought "this would be great with a control!" - and foolishly installed those drivers again. Countless BSOD, which after a complete reformat have, so far, stopped - but DOTA 2 is crashing, Skyrim is constantly crashing to desktop, I'm having to validate file after file on steam just to play games and whenever my PC loads up anything it sounds like it's going to die.
I've run CHKDSK, no errors, I've run the memory diagnostic on windows and it says "hardware fault detected." It's the exact same problem I had last year - I didn't tamper with any hardware to fix it though. Does anyone have any ideas at all? Registry stuff? BIOS stuff? I'll try anything.
Gunmonkey36
Member
Any more specifics on the hardware fault? That just seems really general. You should read the event log for the memory diagnostic: here is how and post it. In general though if you are getting a hardware fault it sounds like you will need new memory.
According to event viewer I haven't run the memory diagnostic tool that I just sat through - I suppose I could run it again and hope it does its thing.
Sourtreats
Member
I need some help. Today I finally got round to upgrading my machine from 32bit Win7 to 64bit. The only problem is that for some reason the ethernet port will not work since I did the fresh install. Windows driver install couldn't install the drivers automatically, when I downloaded the drivers off MSI and tried to install them I get a message "The Realtek Ethernet Controller Driver was not found. If Deep Sleep Mode is enabled Please Plug the Cable.". After googling the issue and finding an unsuccessful solution that required me to power down and remove my RAM for 10 minutes, I am still sitting here without a functional ethernet port.
I don't have the discs that came with the board with me while I'm at University. Any Gafers know how to fix my problem?
I don't have the discs that came with the board with me while I'm at University. Any Gafers know how to fix my problem?
What's the motherboard?
Sourtreats
Member
MSI P67A-GD53.
http://www.realtek.com/downloads/do...d=5&Level=5&Conn=4&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false
Grab the "Win7 and WinServer 2008 R2 Driver."
Open "Device Manager" and point the driver location to the "x64" folder after extracting it.
Erebus
Member
My almost 5-year old Samsung LCD monitor is about to die or so I think. In the last 4 days every time I turn on my PC, the screen will flash for a few minutes until the monitor warms up. Then everything is fine again.
I found a video on Youtube that depicts my problem perfectly (same monitor model too):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjjpmCcs8ho
What are some good affordable 1080p LCD/LED monitors these days, GAF?
I found a video on Youtube that depicts my problem perfectly (same monitor model too):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjjpmCcs8ho
What are some good affordable 1080p LCD/LED monitors these days, GAF?
Psychotext
Member
How strange, that's exactly what my Samsung monitor was doing just before it died a couple of days ago.
Big Chungus
Member
Hey guys, I have a question about PCI-E connectors and PSUs.
I'm replacing my 5770 with a 6950 and noticed that it requires 2 PCI-E cables to be connected to my PSU.
I've been using only one PCI-E connector for the past 2 years and lost my other one. I found a spare PCI-E connector from my other pc's PSU but it wont fit into the designated PCI-E input.
Can I plug the PCI-E connector into one of the other 6 pin inputs on the PSU or will that fry my video card?
Here's a diagram of my PSU, Red circle is the PCI-E input that has the cable already plugged in, Blue is where I could plug in the other PCI-E connector.
I'm replacing my 5770 with a 6950 and noticed that it requires 2 PCI-E cables to be connected to my PSU.
I've been using only one PCI-E connector for the past 2 years and lost my other one. I found a spare PCI-E connector from my other pc's PSU but it wont fit into the designated PCI-E input.
Can I plug the PCI-E connector into one of the other 6 pin inputs on the PSU or will that fry my video card?
Here's a diagram of my PSU, Red circle is the PCI-E input that has the cable already plugged in, Blue is where I could plug in the other PCI-E connector.
Sourtreats
Member
Cheers, worked perfectly.
Hey guys, I have a question about PCI-E connectors and PSUs.
I'm replacing my 5770 with a 6950 and noticed that it requires 2 PCI-E cables to be connected to my PSU.
I've been using only one PCI-E connector for the past 2 years and lost my other one. I found a spare PCI-E connector from my other pc's PSU but it wont fit into the designated PCI-E input.
Can I plug the PCI-E connector into one of the other 6 pin inputs on the PSU or will that fry my video card?
Here's a diagram of my PSU, Red circle is the PCI-E input that has the cable already plugged in, Blue is where I could plug in the other PCI-E connector.
No, theres no pin out diagram for the 6 pin plugs on the PSU but it looks like its mostly 12v/5v/3.3v/GRD/GRD/GRD. The 8 pin plugs on the PSU are 12v/12v/12v/GRD/GRD/GRD/GRD/GRD. Your not going to get enough wattage of one pin of 12v to power your GPU.
Elaborate your issue. I have no idea what you're talking about.
You have a Playstation 2 controller that plugs into a box that converts PS2 input to USB.
Windows only recognizes one of the digital sticks.
What is this box called and what are the drivers you are currently using?
Windows just auto recognizes it as a generic USB joystick and uses whatever drivers it does to recognize it as such....tried using motionjoy, but it wouldnt recognize the controller for the drop down menu
EDIT: Dunno what the box is called off hand...one sec
Erebus
Member
How long until it died from the moment the issue first occurred?
Do you have 2 spare 4pin molex connectors for you power supply? If so you can use one of these adapters:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200106
A lot of video cards include them in the box for people with older power supplies that don't have the 6 pin pci-e connectors.
Big Chungus
Member
Thanks for the reply...I just ended up bending back that little notch/hook thing on my PCI-E connector and plugging it into the PCI-E input.
Just make sure your plugging into pins 234/678 not 123/567 (the right side of the 8 pins)
Psychotext
Member
Probably about a month. Maybe less.
tonychestnut
Neo Member
I have a weird problem with my 6950. I'm getting artifacts in 2D mode when it downclocks but it works perfectly fine when I'm stressing it or playing a game. If I start playing Skyrim, the artifacts slowly go away as it goes from 2D clocks to 3D clocks. In 2D mode it downclocks all the way to 250 core and 150 memory. I tried setting up a a higher clocked 2D profile in MSI Afterburner but the changes won't apply. Can anyone get the profiles to work in Afterburner?
Spectros64
Neo Member
I've just setup windows on my newly built pc and am just wondering...
I have a 250gb and 500gb hdd. 1 for windows/drivers/commonly used programs, the other for all else.
I installed windows and drivers on my 250gb hdd. and am wondering if I should bother to even put my documents and other links to link to my 500gb hdd.
how do you guys do it that have 2 hdds? what do you put on each one and how do you manage it, or should i not even bother to fiddle with it?
I have a 250gb and 500gb hdd. 1 for windows/drivers/commonly used programs, the other for all else.
I installed windows and drivers on my 250gb hdd. and am wondering if I should bother to even put my documents and other links to link to my 500gb hdd.
how do you guys do it that have 2 hdds? what do you put on each one and how do you manage it, or should i not even bother to fiddle with it?
Agent Icebeezy
Welcome beautful toddler, Madison Elizabeth, to the horde!
My PC purchasing has begun in earnest today. I am doing the enthusiat build and I bought the HD 7970 3GB from Amazon at rip off prices. I'm guessing since it is out of stock, they can get away with highway robbery, lol.
Laurentius
Member
Hey, does anybody know if the Microsoft Natural Ergonomic 4000 is decent for gaming at all?
I've heard it's a great ergonomic keyboard, and it obviously wouldn't be ideal for gaming, but I'm wondering if it's a terrible gaming keyboard or not...
I typed on one in Best Buy for a few minutes awhile ago, and it felt nice. Just out of curiosity, I set my hands on WASD, and that felt good, except for the CTRL key. It felt really awkward to reach the control key when on WASD. Might've just been the angle I was on.
It's on sale at NewEgg right now, so considering buying it.
I've heard it's a great ergonomic keyboard, and it obviously wouldn't be ideal for gaming, but I'm wondering if it's a terrible gaming keyboard or not...
I typed on one in Best Buy for a few minutes awhile ago, and it felt nice. Just out of curiosity, I set my hands on WASD, and that felt good, except for the CTRL key. It felt really awkward to reach the control key when on WASD. Might've just been the angle I was on.
It's on sale at NewEgg right now, so considering buying it.
You think thats bad? The GTX680 is rumoured to MSRP for $650
I had one. Was afraid of switching to a mechanical keyboard after becoming so accustomed to the 4000's layout as I used it for four years.
Don't regret purchasing a mechanical keyboard at all. In hindsight, the 4000 is a terrible keyboard for gaming. Keys start failing to respond and because of the ergonomic layout, it makes some games especially shooters difficult to play unless you have a controller.
Ideally, a mechanical keyboard with the 4000's layout would be the best typist keyboard ever, but it's not going to be at a practical price.
Laurentius
Member
Wish I had the money for a nice mechanical keyboard right now. =\
What about the ergonomic layout made games difficult for you?
Psychotext
Member
I desperately need a new ergonomic keyboard. I can't tell you how much I hate this shitty Logitech one I have. I loved my old Microsoft Natural Elite but I can't find a new replacement (and I got tired of refurbing my old ones).
I might just drop it and switch to mechanical... though going back would take a fair bit of retraining my hands I reckon.
I might just drop it and switch to mechanical... though going back would take a fair bit of retraining my hands I reckon.
Starcraft II stands out in my mind.
You have 1-2-3-4-5-6 on one side of the keyboard, and the 7-8-9-0 on the other. Basically, I could not use 7-8-9-0, especially during the heat of battle as my hand positioning would naturally rest on 1-2-3-4-5-6. The way 7-8-9-0 is positioned only makes sense to be used with the right hand, but with the right hand on the mouse all the time, that makes it nearly impossible to accomplish.
For a normal keyboard, the keys are not far apart, so I have access to all of those groupings.
I suppose a solution for that scenario is to remap the 7-8-9-0 groupings to keys with the left hand, but I didn't.
If you spend a lot of time on the computer typing and don't want to spend much, then I would get the 4000. Otherwise, if you're thinking it for gaming purposes, you might find it as an annoyance. After using a mechanical keyboard (Cherry MX Blues), I can't go back to a rubber membrane one unless I'm required (e.g. GRE testing).
If you go mechanical, be sure to buy a wrist rest for ergonomics. I bought one made out of neoprene because I've had a bad experience with gel-based ones. Plus, the neoprene ones keep wrists warm.
Laurentius
Member
I don't really play a lot of RTS games, so number I don't really use number keys above 5 in most games...still, I can see how that would be an annoyance. Did you have any trouble with CTRL in, say, FPS games? I could see it being hard to hit when using WASD...
Might go for it, since I'm doing a lot of coding currently and my hands are starting to hurt from my regular keyboard, and the Microsoft 4000 is cheap. Might degrade my gaming performance a bit, but maybe that'll be a motivation to work more on schoolwork than gaming for me. =p
Ah yeah. Then go for it if you don't have the funds for a mechanical keyboard. You only have one pair of wrists, so I would pay for safety and health now than later.
As for the CTRL key, it can be somewhat awkward, especially if you have large hands. Depends how important it is for you. I became accustomed of having a finger on it, so it didn't bother me. What bothered me was that the action of the keys (especially the space bar) deteriorated after a few years, and thus, the keys stopped responding to strokes. Also if you eat at your keyboard, the key prints can wear off really easily from oils.
If there's one thing I missed about that keyboard, it is the calculator button.
Laurentius
Member
Thanks for the advice! I think I'm gonna go for it...worst case scenario I can just go back to my current keyboard, and it's not a huge loss since it's only $24.00.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
I was running Intel Burn Test and I have a feeling these temps are a bit high under Maximum for an i5-2500k. Any input?
Keep in mind that I am using the Hyper 212+ cooler on it with AS5 paste.
Keep in mind that I am using the Hyper 212+ cooler on it with AS5 paste.
This is my current PSU.
When I upgrade to a 2500k, should I upgrade it, too? I'm also running an OC'd Radeon 6950.
When I upgrade to a 2500k, should I upgrade it, too? I'm also running an OC'd Radeon 6950.
You are fine. Intel Burn Test is serious business.I was running Intel Burn Test and I have a feeling these temps are a bit high under Maximum for an i5-2500k. Any input?
Keep in mind that I am using the Hyper 212+ cooler on it with AS5 paste.
Wattage is fine. 2500K is low power. I think single OC 6950 and OC 2500K load I draw <350W
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