Felix Lighter
Member
For gaming, you get better bang for your buck with the i5. Hyper threading isn't going to come into play 99% of the time. You save $100 for virtually the same performance.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
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For gaming, you get better bang for your buck with the i5. Hyper threading isn't going to come into play 99% of the time. You save $100 for virtually the same performance.
mhayze
Member
The 2500k is cheaper. I was lucky enough to catch a local Microcenter sale and got my 2600k at a price that's lower than the current 2500k price, but other than that (or the intel retail employee promotions), there is probably a better value proposition for the 2500k.
mhayze
Member
ChiefofCitadelSecurity
Member
Are the Core 2 quads still decent for gaming? I was thinking of buying one for my HP.
I have the old socket 775 and those seem to be the best thing ever for it.
I have the old socket 775 and those seem to be the best thing ever for it.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
I swear there was a show off your keyboard thread from a while ago. It might have even been named keyboard porn or something similar. Having a hard time picking out a keyboard and mouse, the two most important parts.
Damn sexy. I want, but I probably can't afford it.·feist·;34836198 said:More Xigmatek Gigas mATX case:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=33615998&postcount=252
XIGMATEK GIGAS Micro ATX Case Review
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0CihK5uFKY
Xigmatek Gigas Cube Gehäuse - Caseking TV
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Royt7P5QWRE
edit:
Price tag?
More cost effective to buy a 2500K and motherboard.
Not worth paying $300 for a Core 2 Quad.
Naked Snake
Member
Why do you need 16gb ram for gaming?
ShirAhava
Plays with kids toys, in the adult gaming world
I have a Q6600 in my HP and it still holds up(a beast if you overclock) they are around $150 these days
ChiefofCitadelSecurity
Member
Sweet, thanks
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
I really wouldn't recommend it. They're alright these days if you can OC it pretty high, but it's likely you won't be able to in an OEM PC. And even then C2Qs are showing their age in CPU heavy games.
You're much, much better off saving for a while and building something newer rather than investing in a 5 year old (!) part.
Spectros64
Neo Member
For a PC that will have two hdds, 1 for windows and 1 for other stuff, what do i have to do to make sure that things downloaded after windows will go on hdd #2? will i have to set my documents up with drive #2?
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Like downloads from your browser? Most browsers have an option where you can select a location for downloads.
Spectros64
Neo Member
for when I save something to my documents, will that prompt me for what drive? or do i have to set all my personal files to drive #2 ahead of time?
I've only ever used a laptop with 1 hard drive.
ideally, i just want windows, drivers and steam stuff on drive 1 and all else on drive 2, but am not sure whether keeping other stuff on drive 2 will be a problem
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
For saving files and whatnot, you just need to set up your libraries the way you want them. Make directories for documents/music/videos/etc on the second HDD and add those to the respective libraries, then remove the original ones from C:.
For installing programs, the best thing to do is just manually set installation directories to a program files folder on the second drive with each program. You can set up Windows to use that as the default program installation path, but I've heard issues can come up if you do that.
You can also use Symlink Creator to put things on the second drive physically but they'll still appear on C: from in Windows. But unless you're using an SSD and want to move some heavily rewritten directory there's really no reason to do that.
Hey GAF, thanks to reading this thread I am about to build my new PC today! So far this is what I have:
Intel i5-2500K
MSI Z68A-GD65 (G3) THIS WAS 139.99 AT MICROCENTER WITH A $30 REBATE YMMV?
Galaxy GTX 460 1GB GC
Kingston Hyper X 16GB 4x4 DDR3-1600 RAM
Coolermaster HAF 912 Mid Tower ATX Case Black
OCZ ModXStream 500w Modular PSU from my other PC
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64BIT
Patriot Pyro 2.5''Sata 3 60GB SSD
Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200rpm Drive
How is this GAF? Is there anything I need to change? Good build??? I might get a different video card next week though..
Intel i5-2500K
MSI Z68A-GD65 (G3) THIS WAS 139.99 AT MICROCENTER WITH A $30 REBATE YMMV?
Galaxy GTX 460 1GB GC
Kingston Hyper X 16GB 4x4 DDR3-1600 RAM
Coolermaster HAF 912 Mid Tower ATX Case Black
OCZ ModXStream 500w Modular PSU from my other PC
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64BIT
Patriot Pyro 2.5''Sata 3 60GB SSD
Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200rpm Drive
How is this GAF? Is there anything I need to change? Good build??? I might get a different video card next week though..
~€110, so with the usual 1:1, roughly $110. Otherwise, it could be ~$130-150, depending. Fair price considering the spec, and higher grade aluminum in relation to a comparable Lian Li, for instance.
Looks fine. Make sure to have the latest firmware for your SSD before you install. If you mean changing your GPU choice, ok. If it's an additional GPU, why bother? Just use the on-board video for now.
***Whoops this was left blank.
HDtach or crystal disk mark. Should be around 120MB/s R/W I think? You can look that up.
Ehhhhh, it's ok if you were eying that case and liquid cooling I guess? It's just upselling you more expensive parts you don't need.
You can get the same gaming performance for $380 less with better value parts.
Your HP can't overclock put you can look up the pad mod to get it to 3.0Ghz
If you won't do that I wouldn't get one.
No reason to spend the extra $$$ on Win7 ultimate unless you really need to have the encryption feature. And it may cause upgrade issues down the road. I had Vista Ultimate that I got free from Bing rewards on one of my computers and when I went to upgrade it to Win7 there was no supported upgrade path to any version other than ultimate of Win7 which I didn't have or want to buy. I had to hack the registry to get it to do an upgrade to Win7 premium.
Quicksilver4648
Member
I am thinking about getting my first SSD, the Corsair Force GT CSSD-F120GBGT-BK. Is this a good drive? Apparently there were some issues at one point but that has been fixed with firmware updates.
Also, is the SSD market going to be changing soon? Meaning: If I bought this SSD today would there be some major upgrade to newer model SSDs in a couple of months that would completely dominate mine performance wise.
Also, is the SSD market going to be changing soon? Meaning: If I bought this SSD today would there be some major upgrade to newer model SSDs in a couple of months that would completely dominate mine performance wise.
tripskylark
Neo Member
Alright so I decided to redo everything. Can I improve on anything? http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=13463029
I'm iffy about about the 570 and if I do something about the 570, I'd be able to invest more in the 500r.
I'm iffy about about the 570 and if I do something about the 570, I'd be able to invest more in the 500r.
M4 or Samsung 830 would be my choices. I am still wary of Sandforce.
You should be wary, the GTX 570 is not in my list for good reason, it's bad value atm. 560Ti 448 / 6950 / 6970 / 7950 instead.
Samsung 830 for a 64GB drive
Do you really need a $100 watercooler? A $25 CM 212 will get you to 4.4Ghz no problem.
I would go for it if you need a SSD now. OCZ drives were cheap and destroyed Sandforce's image, so some people may be hesitant in recommending that SSD chip.
Otherwise, rumors have it that SSD prices should be dropping to a sweet spot in a few months.
Is anyone using a GTX260 core 216 superclocked? It's the one you receive when you RMA with EVGA. I'm having serious overheating problems with it when I play games. I forgot the exact temperature but I touched it after my PC crashed and it was burning hot.
I google'd and it seems this is a recurring problem. Most people seem to have claimed it's just dust but I just received the card less than a month ago so it's still pretty clean.
Also, I wasn't having any problems at all like last week. I thought it might have been the new nvidia driver I installed but I reverted back to the previous one and it's still crashing.
Any tips? Or is the video card faulty?
I google'd and it seems this is a recurring problem. Most people seem to have claimed it's just dust but I just received the card less than a month ago so it's still pretty clean.
Also, I wasn't having any problems at all like last week. I thought it might have been the new nvidia driver I installed but I reverted back to the previous one and it's still crashing.
Any tips? Or is the video card faulty?
2500k all the way, just get any good brand Z68. They all OC relatively well. I recommend Asus.
A 2500k at STOCK clocks (3.3 Ghz) will utterly decimate a 3.5 Ghz Phenom II. See here: http://www.anandtech.com/show/4083/...core-i7-2600k-i5-2500k-core-i3-2100-tested/20
The gap only grows further once the 2500k is pushed (easily) to 4.5+ Ghz.
It should be facing down IF there is a vent/hole below it so that the fan can suck up cool air from the bottom of the case. If there is no vent/hole, it should be facing up.
looking at these benches... from a pure budget gaming standpoint, the i3 2100 is the best cpu
Months behind schedule, controller rumors, and so on.
Intel 520 SSD
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=27496492&postcount=15089
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=33200138&postcount=19063
LSI SandForce SF-2281 controller + 25nm synchronous Flash IMFT.
So, yeah... months later I still say Samsung 830, Crucial M4, along with Intel 520 (CS/reliability?), and Corsair Force GT (warranty/CS) high up on the SandForce end of the spectrum. Or, others based on product/company reliability, quality, pricing, etc.
Intel 520 SSD
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=27496492&postcount=15089
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=33200138&postcount=19063
LSI SandForce SF-2281 controller + 25nm synchronous Flash IMFT.
Read (Lecture)/Write (Ecriture)
Read (Lecture)/Write (Ecriture)
Read (Lecture)/Write (Ecriture)
49 KB average
So, yeah... months later I still say Samsung 830, Crucial M4, along with Intel 520 (CS/reliability?), and Corsair Force GT (warranty/CS) high up on the SandForce end of the spectrum. Or, others based on product/company reliability, quality, pricing, etc.
Hey GAF, can I get some help troubleshooting some problem I'm having?
It's occasionally happened with Dota2 where I will load into the map and then my PC will turn off. Sometimes entirely, just last one I think fans were will spinning (didn't pop open and look). I also happened the first time I ran the Seperable Subsurface Scattering demo (I made it just maybe 30 sec past the intro). Haven't really played anything else long-term enough to cause a problem except for HAWX and Skyrim.
Have 12.1 Catalyst drivers and MSI Afterburner running but no software that can force a shutdown as far as I can tell. When running Dota2 I barely break a sweat. Hell, if I run Tribes: Ascend my activity will jump up and I'll be at 70C GPU temp or so but nothing bad happens.
Is there a way to stress my system somehow to see what's up? It seems inconsistent with what I expect is a shutdown from overheating. I checked the fans and the air coming out is rather cool. CPU doesn't really go past 45-50C either.
I can only think it might be PSU related? I have a 500W power supply from Ultra. I have something like 26A on the +12V rail. I actually recently upgraded to a Phenom II x4 955BE (it technically isn't supported by my mobo, at least the non-OEM stepping/version isn't) and also an HD6870. I guessed it was more than enough power (TDP of my processor is 125W and the 6870 is something like 150-ish?) Kinda want to know what the problem is so if I need to I can replace it/upgrade some more parts or whatnot. So basically for the last month I was problem free but now this has happened a few times over the past week or so.
It's occasionally happened with Dota2 where I will load into the map and then my PC will turn off. Sometimes entirely, just last one I think fans were will spinning (didn't pop open and look). I also happened the first time I ran the Seperable Subsurface Scattering demo (I made it just maybe 30 sec past the intro). Haven't really played anything else long-term enough to cause a problem except for HAWX and Skyrim.
Have 12.1 Catalyst drivers and MSI Afterburner running but no software that can force a shutdown as far as I can tell. When running Dota2 I barely break a sweat. Hell, if I run Tribes: Ascend my activity will jump up and I'll be at 70C GPU temp or so but nothing bad happens.
Is there a way to stress my system somehow to see what's up? It seems inconsistent with what I expect is a shutdown from overheating. I checked the fans and the air coming out is rather cool. CPU doesn't really go past 45-50C either.
I can only think it might be PSU related? I have a 500W power supply from Ultra. I have something like 26A on the +12V rail. I actually recently upgraded to a Phenom II x4 955BE (it technically isn't supported by my mobo, at least the non-OEM stepping/version isn't) and also an HD6870. I guessed it was more than enough power (TDP of my processor is 125W and the 6870 is something like 150-ish?) Kinda want to know what the problem is so if I need to I can replace it/upgrade some more parts or whatnot. So basically for the last month I was problem free but now this has happened a few times over the past week or so.
AwesomeSauce
MagsMoonshine
I have an old XFX GTX260 core 216, my temps for the gpu go fairly hot when i leave the fan speed to auto.
Now, I manually set the fan speed in Inspector before i play any game, I usually boost it to about 65-70% fan speed. The noise isn't annoying because i game with headphones, but if i were you, adjust the fan speed to a % where the fan noise doesn't bother you.
Anybody here have experience with the TRENDnet TEW-684UB.
Bought a linksys e4200 and I'm trying to find a wireless n adapter that supports the 5.0 ghz frequency to go along with it. I would really appreciate some wireless adapter suggestions. Thanks.
Bought a linksys e4200 and I'm trying to find a wireless n adapter that supports the 5.0 ghz frequency to go along with it. I would really appreciate some wireless adapter suggestions. Thanks.
Have there been any updates on the subject of hard drive prices returning to typical levels? My preferred local PC hardware store mentioned ~March, but that was months ago.
I have two 2TB HDDs that have barely 100GB free, both of which will likely be completely full by the end of the month.
Edit: I suppose I could spread any subsequent data cross the other two 2TB drives, but even then I'm only buying a bit of time.
I have two 2TB HDDs that have barely 100GB free, both of which will likely be completely full by the end of the month.
Edit: I suppose I could spread any subsequent data cross the other two 2TB drives, but even then I'm only buying a bit of time.
Psychotext
Member
Anywhere I can look at which are the best monitors available at the moment? One of mine has developed a backlight flicker which only really settles down an hour or so after turning on.
Probably going to be getting another couple at around 22" I guess. I'd prefer 16:10 but I know they're virtually all 16:9 now unfortunately.
Probably going to be getting another couple at around 22" I guess. I'd prefer 16:10 but I know they're virtually all 16:9 now unfortunately.
Spike Spiegel
Member
Guys, I'm having a problem with my new PC.
For two days now, whenever I wake the system up from its "hibernate" state I get a message telling me to insert boot media into the proper drive or press any key to try the default boot again. I reset and go into the BIOS; my HDD is still set as the first boot source to try. I force it to boot into the drive, and after a couple of resets it finally resumes my Windows session.
Is this hard drive borked?
For two days now, whenever I wake the system up from its "hibernate" state I get a message telling me to insert boot media into the proper drive or press any key to try the default boot again. I reset and go into the BIOS; my HDD is still set as the first boot source to try. I force it to boot into the drive, and after a couple of resets it finally resumes my Windows session.
Is this hard drive borked?
razgriz417
Member
My brother is finally upgrading his rig after 4 years. He's been running 2 8800 GT SLI for a while now but the new mobo he's getting only supports 1. Does anyone know how much of a performance hit he'll take by dropping down to 1 8800GT while waiting for a good deal on a 560 or 560 ti? He's mainly upgrading to play SWTOR. Is now a good time to upgrade his video card or should he wait til the Keplers drop and hope for price drops? He wants to spend under $200 for the video card. Thanks in advance guys!
*Original specs
e8400 c2d 2.4
8gb ddr2 800
2 x 8800gt
*new specs
i5 2500k
8gb ddr3 1600
1 8800gt (will be upgraded when we find a decent deal)
*Original specs
e8400 c2d 2.4
8gb ddr2 800
2 x 8800gt
*new specs
i5 2500k
8gb ddr3 1600
1 8800gt (will be upgraded when we find a decent deal)
I think you answered your own question.
Felix Lighter
Member
Thanks. I did end up running Crystal Disk Mark and from what I found it seems to be running fine. I'm not sure what my issue is but it seems like some .exe files take longer than usual to launch. I'll keep looking into it.
Do you have any SLI related issues? If not and you're happy with the performance, there really is not a reason to upgrade. You could probably OC your CPU to around 4.0Ghz relatively easily, if you want to get more out of what you already have.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
too much ram seems like a good problem to have
Felix Lighter
Member
I agree with this. Ram is so stupid cheap right now, you might as well get a boat load of it. If down the road something happens that disrupts the market, the price could skyrocket and if you suddenly find you need more for one reason or another, your stuck paying the higher cost.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
It's not a bad thing, but it's kind of wasted money since extra RAM isn't going to make anything faster.
I'd rather just go with 8GB (which I did) and by the time I need more, it will be time to build again anyway and DDR4 will be standard (unless it gets delayed).
I don't think anybody really knows at this point. It's probably going to be a while as prices slowly slide down and manufacturers enjoy the extra profits.
Heaven bench/OCCT for the GPU, Prime95/OCCT for the CPU. CPU should stay in the mid 50s or lower, GPU should be okay into the mid 80s. Don't know about that PSU, specs seem like it should be good enough but quality is also a factor.
Sounds like it could be a RAM or VRAM issue, might also want to run memtest, and I think there is some sort of utility for testing VRAM?
Thanks to the 2011 thread, I put together a nice PC back in September and have been enjoying comfy couch mode off my HDTV ever since. But there's one thing that is hard to do at distances greater than 6 feet: read tiny text.
I want to set up a second monitor for daily use (email, etc), consulting the internet during gaming, and games with tiny text like Civ5 or MMOs. I've never used two monitors before and am not interested in eyefinitying it or anything.
Can I run two independent displays simultaneously, like a movie out to my couch but normal gaming to a second monitor, with sounds going to the appropriate place?
More importantly, if I wanted to run a second monitor I'd like to have sound at that location-- presently, all video and sound is handled through HDMI out to my HDTV, and if I'm going to be using the desk-based monitor I'd probably leave the TV off or have a movie playing or something. What do you recommend as far as a reasonably-priced display around maybe 24" with sound or a sound solution? Newegg shows some displays with speakers but most warn that the speakers are kinda crappy.
My video card is an EVGA 570, with HDMI, DVI, and DisplayPort; the HDMI is already being used by my TV. I have a ROG Gene-Z mobo and no soundcard.
What do you think, GAF? Displayport out and live with the sound, or something else? What do you recommend for a display?
I want to set up a second monitor for daily use (email, etc), consulting the internet during gaming, and games with tiny text like Civ5 or MMOs. I've never used two monitors before and am not interested in eyefinitying it or anything.
Can I run two independent displays simultaneously, like a movie out to my couch but normal gaming to a second monitor, with sounds going to the appropriate place?
More importantly, if I wanted to run a second monitor I'd like to have sound at that location-- presently, all video and sound is handled through HDMI out to my HDTV, and if I'm going to be using the desk-based monitor I'd probably leave the TV off or have a movie playing or something. What do you recommend as far as a reasonably-priced display around maybe 24" with sound or a sound solution? Newegg shows some displays with speakers but most warn that the speakers are kinda crappy.
My video card is an EVGA 570, with HDMI, DVI, and DisplayPort; the HDMI is already being used by my TV. I have a ROG Gene-Z mobo and no soundcard.
What do you think, GAF? Displayport out and live with the sound, or something else? What do you recommend for a display?
I just realised I've no SATA ports free, so even if I could buy a 2TB drive for a reasonable price tomorrow, there'd be no room for it, haha.
I bought 8 gb more for a total of 16 gb just for modded skyrim.
Unless you're doing video encoding, running multiple virtual machines, photo or video processing, or want the best from benchmarks then no, there's no reason to get a 2600k over a 2500k.
BoobPhysics101
Banned
You're not very good at the whlle reading thing, are you? 2500k overclocks to 4.5-5Ghz no problem. At those speeds it stomps a 2100 into the ground. 2500k is worth the extra money because the performance/$ ratio is insane.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
Hmm, I'll keep that in mind. I gotta admit though, I kind of just like the idea of 16gigs of ram. It seems like so much. Its like a super computer.
Remarks like that are why members have taken issue with some of your posts, and pointed them out in the past. It isn't a matter of simply "being blunt" when you're insulting someone, particularly without provocation.
Not everyone here has the same level of tech knowledge, or experience. Sometimes, people may misinterpret information. All are reasons why these threads have been here for years now.
Also, when commenting on a person's comprehension skills in such a way, it's normally good to try and avoid having errors in your post.
The 2100 is a nice budget CPU for gaming. Factor in the electricity bill (65 Watts in 2100 vs. 95 Watts in 2500K) and retail price, and overall it's pretty good for economic rigs.
Money saved can be spent towards a SSD, a better power supply, or a better graphics card.
Consider the G530 if you're building a HTPC. Sucks that Intel killed overclocking potential capabilities with the budget CPUs on Sandybridge.
Money saved can be spent towards a SSD, a better power supply, or a better graphics card.
Consider the G530 if you're building a HTPC. Sucks that Intel killed overclocking potential capabilities with the budget CPUs on Sandybridge.
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