Yeah. It's $220 after MIR, and then I had a $40 GC that I paid $20 for from the Google Wallet deal a while back.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
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Yeah. It's $220 after MIR, and then I had a $40 GC that I paid $20 for from the Google Wallet deal a while back.
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=41337&promoid=1146
NCIX has the Coolermaster 212 Plus on for $19.99 today only. There is also a manufacturers rebate on the page that will get another $5 off making it 14.99.
NCIX has the Coolermaster 212 Plus on for $19.99 today only. There is also a manufacturers rebate on the page that will get another $5 off making it 14.99.
Hey guys I just built my PC a couple days ago and I am already having heat issues? Right now the core temps are at between 46C and 56C. I seriously don't think it should be that high 
this is an i5-2500k with a Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 board... if there is anything else I need to post let me know :/ but I need help asap.. please??
Also for some odd reason my Windows 7 SP 1 won't install either ugh even with the hotfix..
this is an i5-2500k with a Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 board... if there is anything else I need to post let me know :/ but I need help asap.. please??Also for some odd reason my Windows 7 SP 1 won't install either ugh even with the hotfix..
fushi
Member
GAF, I have a question. Or rather a problem I need solving.
I have a PC and a receiver sitting across the room, out of reach. I used to have it next to my PC and twist the volume knob whenever I needed to, disregarding Windows' internal Volume settings completely. Now I need an alternative to that, some sort of knob-based solution that would deal with the digital volume settings inside Windows in an analogue manner.
I was thinking that there would be some sort of front panel solution for this, something I could tuck into my 5 1/4" bay and be done with it, but... I couldn't find anything. The only thing close enough was this Powermate thingie:
Anything else you guys know that would fit my needs? A decent keyboard with a volume knob, for example?
I have a PC and a receiver sitting across the room, out of reach. I used to have it next to my PC and twist the volume knob whenever I needed to, disregarding Windows' internal Volume settings completely. Now I need an alternative to that, some sort of knob-based solution that would deal with the digital volume settings inside Windows in an analogue manner.
I was thinking that there would be some sort of front panel solution for this, something I could tuck into my 5 1/4" bay and be done with it, but... I couldn't find anything. The only thing close enough was this Powermate thingie:
Anything else you guys know that would fit my needs? A decent keyboard with a volume knob, for example?
Celcius
°Temp. member
Hey guys I just built my PC a couple days ago and I am already having heat issues? Right now the core temps are at between 46C and 56C. I seriously don't think it should be that high
Also for some odd reason my Windows 7 SP 1 won't install either ugh even with the hotfix..
Are you using the stock intel heatsink?
Noooooooooooooo!! God what have I done??? When I first connected my new computer to the Internet it worked fine, but I cleaned installed my computer and it won't connect to the internet because it says it doesn't recononised my modem and it says I need to install software for the modem but my modem is like 10 years old and I don't have any of it's CDs... I'm so fucked..I'm posting from my iPod, if you needed to know.
You could give us that name and model of said modem, someone would probably be able to find some drivers you can use. Also, what OS are you on now.
It's called the Motorola surfboard cable modem model SB5100 it was quite popular back in the day, but I'm from Australia so I don't know how popular it was overseas if that matters at all. Would I have 2 download it from another computer and transfer it, I guess? Oh and it W7 home premium
Read this on another forum;
"I have the Motorola SB5101 that would use the same Vista driver for yours at Motorola for a 32-bit OS. However, they recommend in the readme file that for a 64-bit OS, you should connect the modem using ethernet instead of USB. This way you will not need to install any driver for the modem."
That's the 101 model, can you do the same?
Also, can't you hook up that iPod to the PC and use that as a 'modem to surf the web while finding the drivers or is that iPhone only?
I have the sb5100 and I connect it with a Ethernet into my router, I guess I have to get the drivers
I'll just download from my laptop, probably much easier
Hey guys I just built my PC a couple days ago and I am already having heat issues? Right now the core temps are at between 46C and 56C. I seriously don't think it should be that high
Also for some odd reason my Windows 7 SP 1 won't install either ugh even with the hotfix..
Those temps are fine. Below 70C you're golden.
Still on my monitor buying nightmare crusade... are there any reasons why I SHOULD NOT buy one of these?
Dell UltraSharp U2412M
Reviews seem very good generally.
have two and absolutely love them!!
fushi
Member
Based on this thread I recommended this to a friend who 1) plays games and 2) does a lot of digital painting and the like. She absolutely loves it.Still on my monitor buying nightmare crusade... are there any reasons why I SHOULD NOT buy one of these?
Dell UltraSharp U2412M
Reviews seem very good generally.
Very interesting, will look into this.
Edit: The Veris Elite seems to be exactly what I am looking... strange how I could not find something like that via google. Thanks!
http://store.antec.com/Product/accessory-veris_media/veris-elite/0-761345-30125-1.aspx
faceless007
Member
Still on my monitor buying nightmare crusade... are there any reasons why I SHOULD NOT buy one of these?
Dell UltraSharp U2412M
Reviews seem very good generally.
Got one a few months ago. Pretty awesome so far, but I just use it for games and web browsing.
Yeah, really can't tolerate the noise, super annoying late, its running fine at around 40 idle, and 60-70 under load, but man it sounds like a vaccum, Id wait, but dunno when they are supposed to come in lol
After multiple updates, my 5750s' display drivers keep resetting. My computer generally recovers from the error, but has blue screened on occasion, and that's the last thing I need while working in Photoshop. I typically switch between nVidia and ATI when I update, so I'm looking for an nVidia card this time around. At around $150, what am I looking at for a quiet card? I was thinking of something from EVGA, since I hear they have a decent warranty. Whoever I go with, a little screamer of a card is out of the question.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
Go grab a GTX 550 Ti if that's the budget.
Generally stock coolers are very poor with the exception of the MSI Twin Frozr cards. You want to see how big the fan is as most of the time, manufacturers just slap on a large aluminum block with a very small fan to left center of the card. A small fan requires higher RPMs to push more air; therefore that high rpm causes noise and whine that many people do not like. A bigger fan can push more air at slower RPMs; therefore slower action induces quieter operating performance.
edit: I forgot to ask. What are you currently using for the power supply?
What's the case you're currently using?
Aftermarket GPU coolers can be very large.
The smallest one I can think that will fit would be the Zalman VF900-CU ($40 USD) although cooling performance is subpar. Quiet though.
If your case allows it, I would use the Arctic Cooling Accelero S1 (requires bending the heatpipe and adding 120mm fans) or XTREME Plus ($50 USD, supposedly fits all GTX 4XX cards). You do need a lot of room to use either of these heatsinks though.
Is there anything installed underneath the current graphics card right now?
Also, who manufactured your GTX 460? Although cards can have the same model number, manufacturers can play around with the design and orientation of capacitors and other transistors to fit heatsink on there. I'll need to check if those heatsinks fit.
edit: This thread will be handy: http://www.overclock.net/t/827886/gtx-460-560-560-ti-aftermarket-air-cooler-non-reference-list
I had just found the Elite as well, looks like it's deactivated on Newegg. But I'm not sure from the description is whether it only works in Media center apps or whether it works as a general volume control.
Is this a good or bad time to buy an SSD? I had an SSD in my last pc, an OCZ Vertex 2 to be precise and I loved it to death. For some horrible reason I decided that an SSD was out of my budget for this one.
But I can't take it anymore, I miss having my OS on an SSD. So yeah, is it a good/bad time buying one now?
But I can't take it anymore, I miss having my OS on an SSD. So yeah, is it a good/bad time buying one now?
Rumor has it a significant price drop will occur for SSDs in the next two months.
It's a rumor, so take it as a grain of salt. If you just want to jump in now go ahead.
Nah I'm not in that of a hurry, for now it's just a luxury upgrade.
Care to point to an article/forum post or explain why that would be?
Samsung 830 drives are priced really nice, especially the 256GB variety. Currently $340 (after coupon) at NewEgg shipped. I have owned one since launch (October) in my MacBook Pro and I just bought two more for my gaming PC. Great reliability/value/performance.
If I were you I would not wait. Once you use an SSD you can never go back to HDD.
Two things:
1. OCZ showed off TLC NAND drives set to debut sometime soon. Although TLC NAND is used in flash drives these days, bringing it to the SSD will create a low-tier market, and overall push the market SSD prices down. What's significant about TLC NAND is it will allow manufacturers to put more memory per density; thus will reduce production cost. Savings can be passed down to customers.
2. Last year, various manufacturers showcased the 20nm NAND MLC process. This means higher yields in SSD chips, which means lower production costs.
Again, just speculation. Grain of salt.
If you have to have a SSD, then go for one.
shindoku21
Member
Hey guys. I built a computer around late Oct 2011. There are times when it constantly freezes, 90% of the time when I'm watching Youtube or streaming (flash) and 10% randomly. Sometimes I could go 1-2 days without it freezing, though. I would get an error that the display driver failed and has restored. I bought my graphics card in Dec so I could finally play some games and I thought it may be the integrated graphics causing the problem. Problem still occurs. (video of what happens http://youtu.be/_C4aA0H7eW0 . Note the date... it still happens =[ )
Mobo: Asus P8Z68-V PRO
CPU: Intel i5 2500k 3.3GHz
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB
PSU: OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W
Video Card: Galaxy GeForce GTX 560Ti
Case: Lancool PC-K58
Storage: Samsung 1TB HDD
I've gone through plenty of solutions via Google/forums and none have worked. I ran MemTest and passed. I put my PSU in my brother's PC and his computer still worked fine (I think I should test this further. I only tested it for ~4hrs and I didn't test his PSU in my PC). I've reformatted my HDD and restarted my BIOS.
My initial thought was the PSU but now I'm leaning towards either the mobo or processor. I can play games fine, surprisingly, but risk freezing if I play flash. GAF, do you have any idea what's going on with my computer?
Mobo: Asus P8Z68-V PRO
CPU: Intel i5 2500k 3.3GHz
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB
PSU: OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W
Video Card: Galaxy GeForce GTX 560Ti
Case: Lancool PC-K58
Storage: Samsung 1TB HDD
I've gone through plenty of solutions via Google/forums and none have worked. I ran MemTest and passed. I put my PSU in my brother's PC and his computer still worked fine (I think I should test this further. I only tested it for ~4hrs and I didn't test his PSU in my PC). I've reformatted my HDD and restarted my BIOS.
My initial thought was the PSU but now I'm leaning towards either the mobo or processor. I can play games fine, surprisingly, but risk freezing if I play flash. GAF, do you have any idea what's going on with my computer?
KK thanks. I have 4 already so I'm set just wanted to keep up with the latest.
fushi
Member
http://www.soundgraph.com/ultrabay-feature-en/
This is the original product the Antec one is based one. Might have more luck going with that one.
I've got a galaxy 460, yeah my case would allow it, got a huge cooler master scout, might just go with the extreme plus, seems to be the best
Yeah I have my eyes on the 830, still not sure if I should jump in yet.
Worth it. Every penny. Saving a small bit of money possibly maybe 2 months down the line is such a silly thing to wait on. Just grab the next good deal you see come up on a Force GT/Samsung XXX/Crucial.
Now that my gaming is literally confined to T:A and the occasional Dota 2, I've moved entirely away from mechanical HDD's outside of recording T:A games, as well as hosting media on the file server.
Feels good man, really good. 90GB used to be my go-to, but I really like 120/128GB now. Just the right amount of space to cram your currently played games on to, while still having breathing room.
Now that my gaming is literally confined to T:A and the occasional Dota 2, I've moved entirely away from mechanical HDD's outside of recording T:A games, as well as hosting media on the file server.
Feels good man, really good. 90GB used to be my go-to, but I really like 120/128GB now. Just the right amount of space to cram your currently played games on to, while still having breathing room.
Hey guys, first time posting here.
I'm looking to buy a new video card and I was thinking of this one, it comes with 2 games I was going to buy so it seems like a good deal:
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500231
My current rig is :
Intel Core i5 2500K
Gigabyte Z68MA-D2H-B3
Kingston 8gb RAM
1TB HDD
OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W
Since the card requires 600 watt minimum, do you think that psu is good enough?
I'm looking to buy a new video card and I was thinking of this one, it comes with 2 games I was going to buy so it seems like a good deal:
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500231
My current rig is :
Intel Core i5 2500K
Gigabyte Z68MA-D2H-B3
Kingston 8gb RAM
1TB HDD
OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W
Since the card requires 600 watt minimum, do you think that psu is good enough?
Plenty.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ction-_-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16814162090
In case you're looking to save some money. 20 percent off with the coupon, plus comes with Batman and 20 MIR. So 220 after MIR.
Edit: Quick glance at reviews says it's not an over-clocker. Probably not worth saving the extra money unless you really wanna save that little extra.
Cool, thanks for the quick reply!
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Eh, they're probably BS'ing. All of the Fermi cards overclock great. Yes, some better than others, but out of 12 GTX 570's I've tested (and the 560 Ti 448 is almost exactly the same card), every single 570 did at least a 130-140 Mhz core OC, with a good 100 mhz OC on the RAM at the minimum.
Yup I am and I keep getting tempature errors on startup too :| I think I'll go with another heat sink then...
Is there a big difference between:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBUXI0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
and
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBUXHQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I don't want to buy the wrong one.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBUXI0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
and
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBUXHQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I don't want to buy the wrong one.
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Yes. Buy the 2500k. The 2500 cannot be overclocked. Make sure to get a P67 or Z68 motherboard to OC the 2500k.
Yes! The 2500K is multiplier unlocked which is an absolute necessity if you plan on overclocking. If you couldn't care less about overclocking then the vanilla 2500 should serve you well.
cartman414
Member
Cool.
Might we be seeing more synchronous and toggle NAND drives go for less then?
Agent Icebeezy
Welcome beautful toddler, Madison Elizabeth, to the horde!
Didn't wait, got a 3TB Samsung Barracuda HDD and 120GB Intel SSD today from Best Buy. My case and mobo came today.
Thank you!
Your Current Specs: Old, really old.
Budget: Around $900. Flexible.
Main Use: Gaming - 4, Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 4, General usage -5.
Monitor Resolution: 1600x900 over DVI, won't upgrade for probably another year or more.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Witcher 1/2, anything Bioware or Valve, emulate PS2/Wii games with frills.
Are reusing any parts?: Just an old sata II 1TB hard drive for media storage.
When will you build?: Next two weeks or so.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes.
Case: Cooler Master RC-692-KKN2 $70
Processor: Intel Core i5-2500K $225
PSU: OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W $73, rebate to $48
CPU Fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus $24
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3 $180
RAM: Corsair Vengeance Blu 8 GB 1600mHz CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B $50
GPU: Sapphire AMD Radeon HD 6850 $135, rebate to $120
Disc drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST $23
Boot/main drive: Crucial 128 GB m4 $170
I really want to source everything from Amazon for a variety of reasons, so please keep that in mind for recommendations.
I might be overspending on the motherboard, but I would like a quality part with enough options that it will last for a few years.
Is there anything wrong with setting the Hyper 212+ to vent out the top of the system? Planning to have two fans up there. Will the RAM and it's heatsinks cause problems that way? Should I look for some low profile RAM?
Would it be worth it to bump up to a HD 6870, even at 1600x900? Price is about $30 more.
Going to add another hard drive or two when prices recover, so I went with the SSD since I was paying the same amount anyway just for an eventual boot drive. $75+ for a 160GB seems like a raw deal.
Budget: Around $900. Flexible.
Main Use: Gaming - 4, Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 4, General usage -5.
Monitor Resolution: 1600x900 over DVI, won't upgrade for probably another year or more.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Witcher 1/2, anything Bioware or Valve, emulate PS2/Wii games with frills.
Are reusing any parts?: Just an old sata II 1TB hard drive for media storage.
When will you build?: Next two weeks or so.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes.
Case: Cooler Master RC-692-KKN2 $70
Processor: Intel Core i5-2500K $225
PSU: OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W $73, rebate to $48
CPU Fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus $24
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3 $180
RAM: Corsair Vengeance Blu 8 GB 1600mHz CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B $50
GPU: Sapphire AMD Radeon HD 6850 $135, rebate to $120
Disc drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST $23
Boot/main drive: Crucial 128 GB m4 $170
I really want to source everything from Amazon for a variety of reasons, so please keep that in mind for recommendations.
I might be overspending on the motherboard, but I would like a quality part with enough options that it will last for a few years.
Is there anything wrong with setting the Hyper 212+ to vent out the top of the system? Planning to have two fans up there. Will the RAM and it's heatsinks cause problems that way? Should I look for some low profile RAM?
Would it be worth it to bump up to a HD 6870, even at 1600x900? Price is about $30 more.
Going to add another hard drive or two when prices recover, so I went with the SSD since I was paying the same amount anyway just for an eventual boot drive. $75+ for a 160GB seems like a raw deal.
Hi all,
I have a silly general question. At some point in the next few months I will be upgrading my machine. It's been quite a few years; I was getting my masters degree and playing mainly on my consoles. I was thinking of making my new machine able to hook to both my monitors and my TV so I can relax on the couch when playing games and such.
How do people handle the whole keyboard/mouse situation when gaming though your PC on a TV? Bluetooth/wireless? Long ass wires? Is it better to double up cards in SLI/etc?
Is it even feesable and enjoyable?
I just ask to get my brain rolling as to how I want to handle this down the road. I hope to have a new rig in place for D3/GW2 and whatever else I choose to play outside of my consoles.
Thanks!
I have a silly general question. At some point in the next few months I will be upgrading my machine. It's been quite a few years; I was getting my masters degree and playing mainly on my consoles. I was thinking of making my new machine able to hook to both my monitors and my TV so I can relax on the couch when playing games and such.
How do people handle the whole keyboard/mouse situation when gaming though your PC on a TV? Bluetooth/wireless? Long ass wires? Is it better to double up cards in SLI/etc?
Is it even feesable and enjoyable?
I just ask to get my brain rolling as to how I want to handle this down the road. I hope to have a new rig in place for D3/GW2 and whatever else I choose to play outside of my consoles.
Thanks!
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
I think an upgrade to a 6870 would be worth it if you can fit that extra $30 in there.
In most cases, you'll have slightly better temps with exhaust going out the back, but really it just depends on how your airflow is. Shouldn't make a big difference.
Heatsinks on RAM are usually pointless. If anything you're better off without them, or with the smallest ones possible that way you won't have any clearance issues with coolers or something down the road.
As crazy as it might sound, controllers are usually recommended when you play games on the TV. Unless you're playing shooters, RTS, or other genres where the mouse really makes a difference, just use a 360 controller.
When you do want to use a mouse+keyboard, wireless is the way to go. They make trays and stuff for that to make it a little more comfortable to use, but I don't know anything about those.
And a single card is always better than SLI/CF, given the option. Don't bother with it on a couple midrange cards, just get one high end card. More consistent performance and no worries about compatibility, microstutter, etc.
Asus seems to be pretty highly recommended around here. I have this one and it's been pretty nice.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236079
- Status