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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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What's a good way to get a nice deal on a monitor?

I would like something 23-24", 2-5ms response time, decent brand name.

The 24" Asus monitor that I have is currently on sale at Newegg for $190 with free shipping:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236153

I'm pretty happy with it. 2ms response time, and I haven't noticed any of the ghosting that some reviews mention. My biggest complaint would be the backlight bleeding, but that's basically unavoidable with today's LCDs and it is only apparent on a completely black screen.
 

1-D_FTW

Member
The 24" Asus monitor that I have is currently on sale at Newegg for $190 with free shipping:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236153

I'm pretty happy with it. 2ms response time, and I haven't noticed any of the ghosting that some reviews mention. My biggest complaint would be the backlight bleeding, but that's basically unavoidable with today's LCDs and it is only apparent on a completely black screen.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236049

I've got a similar one. Purposely went with the CFL backlight when I purchased it. It's a good monitor. They definitely have negative ghosting though. In something like Beat Hazard, you can definitely notice it when things become super chaotic (or at least I can, I'm sure many won't). But for an LCD monitor, it's definitely very good with motion (and probably the best you're going to get unless you buy a 120hz TN monitor).
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
Zzzz

Gaf.

Youtube clips pause and lag when I move my mouse across the video. Wat?
The faster and more I move it ( i.e just jerking the mouse across the screen very fast ) the more the clip lags and if I do it fast enough the clip kinda stops temporarily. Sound is not affected at all.

Any idea?

Using chrome, latest flash, cpu is a 2600k.
 

longdi

Banned
crucial m4 128gb is $158 at amazon...no reason not to get one...this fits right between the speed of sandforce drives, the stability of intel and it damn cheap!
 

Heppell

Banned
hey guys i know theres a tech thread in OT but i would rather ask help here since its more active.

About a day ago i said i couldnt connect to the internet after i done a clean install, well i can connect to the internet but only by a D-Link/wireless.

i was wondering if anyone knows hoew i can by an ethernet cable?

Help would be appreciated!!!
 

1-D_FTW

Member
hey guys i know theres a tech thread in OT but i would rather ask help here since its more active.

About a day ago i said i couldnt connect to the internet after i done a clean install, well i can connect to the internet but only by a D-Link/wireless.

i was wondering if anyone knows hoew i can by an ethernet cable?

Help would be appreciated!!!

You can buy an ethernet cable anywhere. Office Depot, Walmart, Best Buy, Radioshack, Amazon, Monoprice.com, etc. It's almost more difficult finding stores that don't sell those cables.

Are you sure the clean install didn't wipe your ethernet drivers? Google the name of your motherboard and download the latest drivers for it. The odds of an ethernet cable dying the very instant your re-installed Windows is pretty astronomical.
 

DSmalls84

Member
I am hooking up a pc to my hdtv and was wondering if there are any good wireless gaming keyboard/mouse combos? I haven't seen any, so at the moment I'm planning to get a logitech g110 keyboard and plug my g9x into that. At least then I will only have 1 usb cable.
 
crucial m4 128gb is $158 at amazon...no reason not to get one...this fits right between the speed of sandforce drives, the stability of intel and it damn cheap!

Really thinking hard about getting this. I have a $50 Amazon gift card. I'd be replacing a Vertex 2 90 GB so my performance would more than double and I'd keep the Vertex 2 to put into my laptop or maybe just use as a spare games drive...

I'd eventually get another M4 128 to run RAID 0.
 

clav

Member
Really thinking hard about getting this. I have a $50 Amazon gift card. I'd be replacing a Vertex 2 90 GB so my performance would more than double and I'd keep the Vertex 2 to put into my laptop or maybe just use as a spare games drive...

I'd eventually get another M4 128 to run RAID 0.

Sold out on Amazon for now.


hey guys i know theres a tech thread in OT but i would rather ask help here since its more active.

About a day ago i said i couldnt connect to the internet after i done a clean install, well i can connect to the internet but only by a D-Link/wireless.

i was wondering if anyone knows hoew i can by an ethernet cable?

Help would be appreciated!!!

If the ethernet port lights are flashing on the back of the computer when the Ethernet cable is plugged in, then you don't need new cables.

You need drivers.

What motherboard is it? If it's a retail computer, tell us the computer model number.

Zzzz

Gaf.

Youtube clips pause and lag when I move my mouse across the video. Wat?
The faster and more I move it ( i.e just jerking the mouse across the screen very fast ) the more the clip lags and if I do it fast enough the clip kinda stops temporarily. Sound is not affected at all.

Any idea?

Using chrome, latest flash, cpu is a 2600k.

Must be that GPU acceleration enabled from Flash. Update your Flash player if you haven't for a while and your graphics card drivers.

If you use Google Chrome, uninstall the Flash programs in Add/Remove Programs because Chrome updates its own Flash automatically. If Flash for Firefox/Opera is installed, somehow Google likes to default to that.

To check if Google Chrome is using its own Flash, navigate to: chrome://plugins. Scroll to Flash and disable any Flash plugin not related to Chrome. Usually Chrome's version number will correspond the Flash version (e.g. C:\Users\User Name\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\Application\18.0.1025.11\gcswf32.dll)
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
Must be that GPU acceleration enabled from Flash. Update your Flash player if you haven't for a while and your graphics card drivers.

If you use Google Chrome, uninstall the Flash programs in Add/Remove Programs because Chrome updates its own Flash automatically. If Flash for Firefox/Opera is installed, somehow Google likes to default to that.

To check if Google Chrome is using its own Flash, navigate to: chrome://plugins. Scroll to Flash and disable any Flash plugin not related to Chrome. Usually Chrome's version number will correspond the Flash version (e.g. C:\Users\User Name\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\Application\18.0.1025.11\gcswf32.dll)

I'm using chrome, I don't have an instance of "Flash" software in add/remove programs so I'm guessing chrome is using its own? Though going to chrome://plugins it say "Flash (2 files)" one of them is disabled. Don't really know the best course of action right now.

edit : also this thing only seem to happen like 50% of the time, some times my mouse doesn't affect the playback others it does.
 

Sethos

Banned
I'm using chrome, I don't have an instance of "Flash" software in add/remove programs so I'm guessing chrome is using its own? Though going to chrome://plugins it say "Flash (2 files)" one of them is disabled. Don't really know the best course of action right now.

If you're using the public stable release, try opting into the Beta channel. If you already are, try re-installing your video drivers ( Nvidia? ) and tick the clear settings box during it.

All sounds odd, just suggesting the brute force options.
 

clav

Member
I'm using chrome, I don't have an instance of "Flash" software in add/remove programs so I'm guessing chrome is using its own? Though going to chrome://plugins it say "Flash (2 files)" one of them is disabled. Don't really know the best course of action right now.

edit : also this thing only seem to happen like 50% of the time, some times my mouse doesn't affect the playback others it does.
You can disable GPU acceleration in flash videos all together if it's that problematic. I've only had to do this on laptops that no longer receive driver updates.

Load up a Youtube video.

Right-click -> Settings.

Go to the farthest left tab icon (Computer monitor with a play button icon).

Uncheck the "Enable hardware acceleration" box.
 

artist

Banned
Hazaro might have to update the budget config soon :p

The Cape Verde chip features 1.5 billion 28nm transistors, with a die sized at a tiny ~130mm2. Cape Verde will be the cheapest of GCN chips in the Southern Islands family, with 10 CU. This equates to 640 SP and 40 TMU. Cape Verde features 16 ROP and a 128-bit memory interface. However, thanks to increased efficiency with GCN and an immense 1 GHz clock, the HD 7770 manages to come close to VLIW-5 based HD 6850 in leaked benchmarks, while being clearly faster than the likes of HD 6790 or GTX 550 Ti. HD 7770 consumes a meagre 80W, well below HD 6850 or even HD 5770/6770.

HD 7750 features 8 active CUs or 512 SP. Core clocks are down to 800 MHz for a theoretical SP throughput of 819 Gflops - only 65% of HD 7770. However, the memory clocks are retained at 4.5 GHz and both HD 7750 and HD 7770 feature 1GB GDDR5 with a memory bandwidth of 72 GB/s. HD 7750 should offer HD 6770 / GTX 550 Ti level of performance but will do so only consuming 55W - which will surely make it the fastest GPU not requiring a PCI-e power connector.

Both HD 7770 and HD 7750 are expected to be reasonably priced - at €115/$129 and €90-100/$99-$110 respetively. If these prices are held in retail and AMD can maintain supply, the HD 7700 is sure to become a popular option for gamers on a budget

Read more: http://vr-zone.com/articles/report-amd-radeon-hd-7750-7770-specifications/14829.html#ixzz1m0Yo6gIx
 

clav

Member
HD 7750 should offer HD 6770 / GTX 550 Ti level of performance but will do so only consuming 55W - which will surely make it the fastest GPU not requiring a PCI-e power connector.

Yay for eco gaming.
 
Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E
joYid.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/silver-arrow-sb-e-the4muya.jpg

Product introduction: Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E
(Translated excerpt from press release)

With the Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E, the inventor of the twin tower design presents the latest evolution of the legendary series of coolers.

After the memorable today Thermalright IFX-14 and the silver arrow processors of the Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E as the new flagship of the legendary cooler manufacturer launched runs just in time for the introduction of the Intel LGA 2011. Of course, the high-quality cooler for all current processors is suitable and will comes with universal mounting material for Intel LGA 775 / 1366/1156/1155 / 2011/AM3/AM3 +/ FM1 CPUs and AMD AM2 / AM2 +.
2kd3z.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/silver-arrow-sb-e-theubugw.jpg

The Silver Arrow SB-E differs from its predecessor model in various points.

The changes at a glance:

  • The Silver Arrow SB-E now has eight 6 mm heatpipes, instead of four 8 mm heatpipes [on standard Silver Arrow]
  • The fan assembly consists of a TY 141 (140 mm) and a TY 150 (150 mm) fan (formerly two TY 140 fan)
  • Both fans are now double ball-bearings in the interest of a high service life
  • The heat sink has been further optimized and adapted to the shape of the fan
  • The universal mounting kit specifically optimized for the Silver Arrow SB-E is brand new.
  • The fan clips are now inside which almost excludes "collisions" with high memory modules (heatspreaders)
Swfzq.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/silver-arrow-sb-e-theviud8.jpg

Its strengths in particular on 6- and 8-core.
WLyb3.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/silver-arrow-sb-e-thehiuzi.jpg
 

clav

Member
That sounds like an awesome card. I bet it overclocks like a beast too. 1.3 Ghz core OC's and nice RAM OC's? Should easily hit 6870/GTX 560 Ti speeds with a decent OC.

Not sure if you can say that for the HD 7750.

OC on cards without power connectors can be limited.
 

FourDoor

Member
Well I just wanted to say thanks and now wish me luck as I finally start to put together my rig based on everyone's recommendations here.

I ended up with an i7-2600k, Asus Z68 Pro/Gen3, Corsair H100, Corsair 16GB Vengeance, Crucial 256gb M4, Corsair AX1200, all stuffed in an NZXT Phantom case:

PhantomFourDoor1Small.jpg

(No AX1200 since that just arrived yesterday)

I really didn't want to go with blue on the inside but it's slowly starting to grow on me

PhantomFourDoor2Small.jpg


The GPU is on hold for the next gen nvidia cards but at least hopefully by this weekend, I can at least fire her up!
 
I could use some help. I REALLY need some more storage on my computer asap so I want to get a new (internal) hard drive. Problem is my mobo is old (2006) and I am pretty sure it uses SATA 2 connections (I'm not entirely sure how to check though). My question is will SATA 3 Hdds work with a SATA 2 connection? If not, what is a good SATA 2 Hdd? I'm looking for between 1-2TBs.
 
I could use some help. I REALLY need some more storage on my computer asap so I want to get a new (internal) hard drive. Problem is my mobo is old (2006) and I am pretty sure it uses SATA 2 connections (I'm not entirely sure how to check though). My question is will SATA 3 Hdds work with a SATA 2 connection? If not, what is a good SATA 2 Hdd? I'm looking for between 1-2TBs.
Yes, and until hybrid HDDs become faster and/or more prevalent, SATA II will be more than enough for any 7200rpm, or lower, standard HDD.
 

Mully

Member
Can anyone give me a hand with an issue I'm having with a BF2 mod called Project Reality?

I've been playing the mod since July when I built my PC, since I've installed it I've had the same issue with a bunch of servers. I join the server, get into a squad, and then suddenly get Punkbuster booted about 10 minutes in due to an MD5 Tool Mistmatch error. I've tried asking the devs on the RealityMod forums and basically wasn't given any help.

I've tried most of the simple solutions like re-installing Battlefield, PR mod, and Punkbuster. However, each of has done nothing for me. All other solutions seem very complicated to me and if anyone could give me helpful advice that'd be great. I love playing the mod, but hate having to play on the shittier servers because of this issue.
 

mkenyon

Banned
So, I fairly recently switched to a tenkeyless Leopold Cherry Red keyboard for gaming. Freaking amazing. Having your hands closer together makes a huge difference. Now that I've totally gotten used to them, the Cherry Reds are actually my switch of choice for everything. Well, Coolermaster just released the Quick Fire Rapid Cherry Red, only available through their store (Blue is already on the egg). From what I gather, it's basically a rebranded Filco Tenkeyless board. I got to handle one of the Browns at PAX, and they are indeed fantastically made. Thought I'd give you guys a heads up.

Coolermaster Store said:
Features
Red Steel Backplate
Mechanical CHERRY MX Red switches
Windows Keys disabled in GAME mode
Extra key-caps bundled (with keypuller)
Laser-marked keycaps
Anti Ghosting
NKRO in PS/2 mode
1000Hz/1ms response time in USB mode
Multimedia shortcuts
Rubber coated Keyboard surface
Removable braided USB cable with cable routing

4.jpg


Getting a Filco tenkeyless Cherry Red for $90 is a steal.
 

clav

Member
So, I fairly recently switched to a tenkeyless Leopold Cherry Red keyboard for gaming. Freaking amazing. Having your hands closer together makes a huge difference. Now that I've totally gotten used to them, the Cherry Reds are actually my switch of choice for everything. Well, Coolermaster just released the Quick Fire Rapid Cherry Red, only available through their store (Blue is already on the egg). From what I gather, it's basically a rebranded Filco Tenkeyless board. I got to handle one of the Browns at PAX, and they are indeed fantastically made. Thought I'd give you guys a heads up.



4.jpg


Getting a Filco tenkeyless Cherry Red for $90 is a steal.


How do the Cherry Reds compared to the Cherry Blues?
 

mhayze

Member
GAF, I have a question. Or rather a problem I need solving.

I have a PC and a receiver sitting across the room, out of reach. I used to have it next to my PC and twist the volume knob whenever I needed to, disregarding Windows' internal Volume settings completely. Now I need an alternative to that, some sort of knob-based solution that would deal with the digital volume settings inside Windows in an analogue manner.

I was thinking that there would be some sort of front panel solution for this, something I could tuck into my 5 1/4" bay and be done with it, but... I couldn't find anything. The only thing close enough was this Powermate thingie:

powermate.jpg


Anything else you guys know that would fit my needs? A decent keyboard with a volume knob, for example?

I'm a fan of rotary volume controls myself. The Corsair K60 (and K90, I think) mechanical keyboards have a rotary volume cylinder (but it's flat to the keyboard, like a treadmill roller). The Dell multimedia keyboards have a 'normal' rotary volume control, but that's a normal rubber dome keyboard rather than a mechanical keyboard.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
·feist·;35022694 said:
Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E
http://www.abload.de/img/silver-arrow-sb-e-the4muya.jpg

Product introduction: Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E
(Translated excerpt from press release)
lol
Well I just wanted to say thanks and now wish me luck as I finally start to put together my rig based on everyone's recommendations here.

I ended up with an i7-2600k, Asus Z68 Pro/Gen3, Corsair H100, Corsair 16GB Vengeance, Crucial 256gb M4, Corsair AX1200, all stuffed in an NZXT Phantom case:

(No AX1200 since that just arrived yesterday)

I really didn't want to go with blue on the inside but it's slowly starting to grow on me

The GPU is on hold for the next gen nvidia cards but at least hopefully by this weekend, I can at least fire her up!
What are you sticking in there that you need an AX1200?
would anyone recommend the astro a40 bxr 2011 headsets? I bought seberia v2 and i don't like the mic quality.
I've heard mixed things. Gaming headphones I'd look elsewhere at many new offerings. I'm pretty sure the amp is good, but you don't need that.
 

border

Member
My old Dell Inspiron seems dead, or close to it.

When I hit the power button it illuminates and the fans start to spin, but almost immediately stop. On the motherboard there's an LCD illuminated, but I'm not sure if it was always like that because I never really opened the box with the power still attached.

Any advice? Or at least a diagnosis?
 

clav

Member
My old Dell Inspiron seems dead, or close to it.

When I hit the power button it illuminates and the fans start to spin, but almost immediately stop. On the motherboard there's an LCD illuminated, but I'm not sure if it was always like that because I never really opened the box with the power still attached.

Any advice? Or at least a diagnosis?

Seems like it. Someone gave me an ASUS laptop with those same symptoms. Tried everything.

I guess one thing you can try is pull out the battery and hold the power button for 30 seconds (no power cord attached either). Put the battery back and power it.

Otherwise, you're pretty much SOL unless you have SODIMM RAM sitting around to test.


Same actuation and force (45g) but there is no tactile feedback or clicky noise associated with. The only noise is from bottoming out the key.

Very smooth, feels like silk.

That sounds like cherry browns, so I suppose the actuation is 50g instead?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Do you have an recommendations?
I don't. I'd check out some ratings from newegg and Amazon and see how some fare, then pick on price/comfort/more in depth reviews.
My input would be for dedicated headphones (Say M50 or AD700's) + a Logitech USB mic or Zalman clip on.
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Micro Center has i5 2500k's for $180 right now:

http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0354589

Am I right in thinking this is easily as good as it gets price-wise for this processor? I'm looking to do a build in the next 2-3 months, and I'm tempted to scoop this up now since it's 5 minutes from my job.

Up to you. Ivy Bridge releases in 2 months. The i5-3570k (i5 2500k replacement) is supposed to release at 225. Could Microcenter run some sale at 200? Do you care that the chip is slightly faster and more efficient? For some people, it's worth a little more. If you're going to box the i5 for a couple months anyways, worth considering holding out.
 

Audioboxer

Member
Wanting some monitor help please,

Around the £130 is top budget. Ones I'm looking at

Acer S240HL - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005QVZ79C/

BenQ G2420HDBL - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002XNOJMC/

Acer UG5HE - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005DGENC2/

Samsung S24A300H - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0060KBY86/

I have some games usage on my PC, but viewing quality is top priority to me, I'd take a slightly slower refresh rate if picture quality was better. I can also get the Samsung for £103.99 from the Amazon warehouse, returns, but said to be immaculate.

Thanks
 

Sethos

Banned
Audίoboxer;35039499 said:
Wanting some monitor help please,

Around the £130 is top budget. Ones I'm looking at

Acer S240HL - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005QVZ79C/

BenQ G2420HDBL - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002XNOJMC/

Acer UG5HE - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005DGENC2/

Samsung S24A300H - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0060KBY86/

I have some games usage on my PC, but viewing quality is top priority to me, I'd take a slightly slower refresh rate if picture quality was better. I can also get the Samsung for £103.99 from the Amazon warehouse, returns, but said to be immaculate.

Thanks


I have no real experience with Acer and Samsung I just go by what everyone else are saying - They seem to make solid monitors that does good all-round. However I strongly suggest you don't go for that BenQ. I have that exact model sitting in my basement right now and I never really enjoyed it. It requires an incredible amount of tweaking out of the box to get decent colours and the brightness is all out of whack because of the LEDs. It also seems to add a sort of funny sharpening effect that the OSD settings won't fix. It just feels like a really cheap monitor. The thing doesn't even have HDMI.
 

Audioboxer

Member
I have no real experience with Acer and Samsung I just go by what everyone else are saying - They seem to make solid monitors that does good all-round. However I strongly suggest you don't go for that BenQ. I have that exact model sitting in my basement right now and I never really enjoyed it. It requires an incredible amount of tweaking out of the box to get decent colours and the brightness is all out of whack because of the LEDs. It also seems to add a sort of funny sharpening effect that the OSD settings won't fix. It just feels like a really cheap monitor. The thing doesn't even have HDMI.

Well it's good to scratch one off the list so quickly.

The 23" Dell Ultrasharp looks tasty - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005MHMFJA/

However it's going a bit over budget right now. Ideally I'd like a 24" monitor, but the price difference on the Dell 23 to 24 is quite large - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005LNDPPS/
 
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