Try spending more than 5 seconds making your posthttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021
Bought this and I have $800 max left to spend...
Someone finish the build please!!!
Try spending more than 5 seconds making your posthttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021
Bought this and I have $800 max left to spend...
Someone finish the build please!!!
Is there much difference between a I3-2100 and a 2120 other then 300 mhz and will that matter much. Also can I use a 500 watt psu with a 6870?
There used to be a substantial price difference between the two ($30). If you want to spend the little extra ($8 according to Amazon), it'll help a bit.
Which PSU are you talking about? I know the requirements for HD 6870 say a 500 watt, but what is most important is the amps it delivers on the 12V rail(s). 28 Amps for the HD6870 split between two power connectors.
Okay thanks, might as well get the 2120, it's not much more.
As for the PSU it's this one.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G0WPLK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
36 Amps split across two 12V rails.
Should work.
What else are you stuffing in the system?
http://amzn.com/w/S1NRIN2MWDYC
I think It's a pretty good build. Monitor kinda sucks, but it will do for now. I'm pushing what I want to spend with this, the HDD is what is killing me. I'll have to upgrade when they come down in price.
Yeah it's decent for $700 considering you're factoring a monitor and keyboard+mouse.
You probably can consider the Cooler Master HAF 912 if you're already going to pay that much for a case. Might as well get a decent one.
Thanks, Looked at it and added. The extra space for the GPU is most likely needed since the 6870 is huge. $735.16 for this gaming rig is pretty good. Should last me awhile, I plan on dropping a i5 at a later point.
Unless things have changed all 1155 boards should support Ivy with a BIOS update.The thing about the i5s and upgrade routes. So far, the only chipset motherboard that has been confirmed to have Ivy Bridge support is Z68 (unless someone can correct me here).
The thing about the i5s and upgrade routes. So far, the only chipset motherboard that has been confirmed to have Ivy Bridge support is Z68 (unless someone can correct me here).
The i5 2500 comes in two variants: K and non-K. Basically the K version indicates the multiplier is unlocked; thus people can overclock K chips. Stable overclocking is only available on the P67 and Z68 motherboards. If you do want to consider this route, be advised that you will have to pay more.
You can put an i5-2500 (non-K) version on a H61 motherboard although some people here may think that would be a waste since a K version is only $20 more.
What is your budget in this build?
Unless things have changed all 1155 boards should support Ivy with a BIOS update.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021
Bought this and I have $800 max left to spend...
Someone finish the build please!!!
My motherboard is the Asus P8P67 Pro and on October 6, 2011 there was a firmware update with the description of "1. Enable support for Next Gen 22nm Processor." I think it is safe to assume this is referring to Ivy Bridge.
I can't imagine D3 making use of more than 2 cores tbh, and a 3Ghz i3 should net you a good 60FPS on high. Ultra is just there to waste frames like SC II where it looks the same and halves your framerate.
Ah, so it's confirmed for the P67 boards then.
Looking at the H61 updates and all of them are titled "Support New CPUs." Were there any new Intel CPUs released back in September 2011?
Waiting is usually always better unless you find good deals on a PSU/case/memory etc.Oh thanks for clearing that up. Thanks for putting together these helpful charts btw. It makes things so much easier for a guy like me who's never done this before. As far as buying parts go, I have the list you made for the Standard build, is it now just a matter of waiting for some of these prices to drop and putting it all together piecemeal? Or would you guys recommend maybe waiting until I get closer to the release date? Again, I'm not in any rush to get this thing built and ready to go, I'm just really not familiar with computer hardware and how frequently they become replaced/get cheaper.
Last one was a i5 and a i3 in Feb of 11.
I can't imagine D3 making use of more than 2 cores tbh, and a 3Ghz i3 should net you a good 60FPS on high. Ultra is just there to waste frames like SC II where it looks the same and halves your framerate.
Have you tried wiping out all the drivers and reinstalling them? Might even be windows, because well It's windows and it likes to freak out randomly.I'm getting constant artifacts and crashing recently. Display driver crashes and restarts and just plain freezing. It usually occurs when I start a game up but it also occurs even when I'm just surfing the web or right when I bootup the computer (after Windows loads). Video card definitely borked? I checked temperatures and highest it's gone is ~65C.
Just tried that nope. Guess I'll be RMA'ing again.... Seems to be a recurring problem with this card according to google (GTX 260 core 216 superclocked)Have you tried wiping out all the drivers and reinstalling them? Might even be windows, because well It's windows and it likes to freak out randomly.
Hey guys need some help.
I have 1500 as a budget for a new Gaming Tower, anyone want to help by throwing something together? I can put it together myself if needed.
Check the OP, its still up to date
It must drive Hazaro nuts knowing that nobody reads the OP. 3/4 the questions have the answers right there.
Cool, are there any refreshes that are coming out or is it safe to buy?
ivy bridge cpu is coming in a few months, but that won't be a major upgrade from the current sandy bridge cpu's...just a smaller die. nvidia is expected to show something from their next-gen GPUs in the next month or so...AMD's are already out.
pretty safe time to buy unless you're interested in the newer nvidia cards.
Yeah, that is the price I paid Spring 2011. When my drive died in January 2012 I went to replace it only to be shocked that they are now being sold for $150. I said "screw it" and spent a little bit more and got an SSD. If I am going to pay that much for a new drive then I want something impressive to show for it.Is the price of the Samsung F3 listed in the OP before the 100% hike? I don't see these listed for near 60 bucks anywhere.
Yeah, that is the price I paid Spring 2011. When my drive died in January 2012 I went to replace it only to be shocked that they are now being sold for $150. I said "screw it" and spent a little bit more and got an SSD. If I am going to pay that much for a new drive then I want something impressive to show for it.
I have it on good authority that AMD is going to be doing two things when the next nvidia cards hit. #1, release high OC/binned models that will see huge stock performance increases. #2, aggressively cut prices to maintain their priceerformance argument.
Anyone happen to know of a good guide on getting 3D games/movies up and running on a 3D TV (a Panny plasma specifically)? I know I'll need custom drivers for my GTX 580 (since it's not a 120hz monitor) and some software/drivers from Nvidia for movies, but I'm not sure exactly what I need.
I have it on good authority that AMD is going to be doing two things when the next nvidia cards hit. #1, release high OC/binned models that will see huge stock performance increases. #2, aggressively cut prices to maintain their priceerformance argument.
Cool, are there any refreshes that are coming out or is it safe to buy?
Get your FUD out of here. Drivers are equal between the two, AMD is just slow on crossfire profiles. But, you can create custom ones now anyway.Amazing how neither of these things is "Improve their drivers".
Maybe. What I heard (from Sapphire rep) is that AMD specifically held back the stock clocks on the inital release to set a lower bar for Nvidia with plans to have drastically increased stock clocks later on while dropping prices.I read this as the GTX680 is going to kick the 7970s ass performance wise.
Anyone happen to know of a good guide on getting 3D games/movies up and running on a 3D TV (a Panny plasma specifically)? I know I'll need custom drivers for my GTX 580 (since it's not a 120hz monitor) and some software/drivers from Nvidia for movies, but I'm not sure what I need exactly.
I read this as the GTX680 is going to kick the 7970s ass performance wise.
http://www.nvidia.com/object/3dtv-play-overview.html
Check that out to get 3d vision up and running on TVs. And I would use the latest 295 drivers. You need to buy it but you don't need any 3d party drivers for Nvidia setups
I was under the impression that I'd need custom (non Nvidia) drivers to get 3D games running, since the TV can't accept 120hz. Is that not the case?
I'm in the deep end, trying to figure out frame packing, side-by-side 3D, etc I'm not sure if I need IZ3D or Tru3D or what.
Not bad. You can always buy whatever 120mm fans you want and put them on there to quiet it down more.How does everyone find the noise on the Coolermaster 212 Plus? I'll be going to it from a Zalman 9700.
Not bad. You can always buy whatever 120mm fans you want and put them on there to quiet it down more.
No. Unless there's a snafu with setup, it's an absolute breeze getting 3D Play working via HDMI.
As stated, you have to buy the 3D Play software for 40 dollars though (can download a 14 day free trial first).
Thanks, that is a lot easier than I figured it would be. What are the custom drivers for? Games that don't work with Nvidia 3D play?
Honestly, I have no idea. Maybe they're cracks that allow 3D Play to work without paying?
If a game doesn't work with 3D Play, in all likely-hood it's not working with anything.*
*OpenGL games not included. All the modern 3D software is DX only. So games like Doom 3 or Amnesia are a no go with any setup.
3D Play/Vision has fantastic support (even in a lot of games that aren't rated.) A game like Sonic and Sega Racing looks fantastic with no modifications, yet doesn't even have ratings/tweaks. It really is a one stop solution and requires nothing other than the 3D Play software.
I calculated that I need at least to have 180GB to go to a SSD.
Too bad prices are still in that premium range, and I don't like dual hard drive setups.
Thanks, that is a lot easier than I figured it would be. What are the custom drivers for? Games that don't work with Nvidia 3D play?