Look at hybrids?
Might as well stick to traditional if you're paying for hybrids. The only thing you get on hybrids is fast start-up speed. Unless you have a setup that requires you to reboot often, there's no point.
Look at hybrids?
What's wrong with dual HD setups?
Also, could always RAID0 some 90GB drives, those seem to go on sale fairly often.
Could also take advantage of the Z68 chipset and use the 40GB SSD to cache your oft used stuff. Everything happens in the background, so it's pretty painless.
So what's the best nVidia driver version to use with a 560Ti 448? Got my card in today, and installed the latest beta drivers (295.51), but it seems to screw up the aspect ratio in SWTOR. In the interest of not downloading and then installing/trying/uninstalling every version, anyone have any experience with what's supposed to a "proper" working one?
PC GAF, bless me with your wisdom! I'm building a new PC and I require your assistance.
I have a PC from 2 years back that I need to upgrade. I am currently running an AMD Phenom II X4 945 on a Gigabyte motherboard. I want to upgrade to a Core i-5 so I need a new mobo, graphics card, RAM and all that jazz. To save a bit of money, I'm hoping to be able to use the same PSU, HD, SSD and case that I currently have. Going off the OP, the 'Excellent-Best Overall' build is the one I want and I was wondering if I can get some feedback on whether or not I can get away with reusing my case and my PSU specifically. My SSD and HD should be fine either way.
My Current Specs
- CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 945
- RAM: G Skill 4GB 240-Pin DDR2
- Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-MA790FX-UD5P
- GPU: Radeon HD 4890 1GB 256-bit
Budget: $900-1000 including taxes
Main Use
- Gaming: 3
- 3D Work: 5
- Video Editing: 2
- General Usage (1080p Playback would be great): 4
Resolution:: My current monitor goes up to 1920x1080 and I'm fine with that. I may be able to afford a second monitor, so dual monitor support would be nice.
Games I must be able to play:: I don't really have the time anymore, but I'd love to be able to play:
That's about it and none of those are necessities. The 3D work would be better.
- Starcraft 2 maxed out online. Can't do this right now.
- Crysis 1 and 2 maxed
- The Witcher 2 maxed
Reused parts
Hard Drive: Western Digital 640GB
SSD: OCZ Vertex 2 120GB
DVD/CD Drive: Sony Optiarc
PSU: SeaSonic M12D 750W
Case: Antec P183 ATX Mid Tower
As I said, I'm not sure that I can reuse the case or the PSU with Haz's build, but I'd like to be able to.
Thoughts?
I'm assuming that there would be no issues with the CD/DVD drive, HD and SSD too, correct?For any single GPU setup, that case and PSU are fine.
I'm assuming that there would be no issues with the CD/DVD drive, HD and SSD too, correct?
You're super cool.Nope, it's good to go.
Waiting is usually always better unless you find good deals on a PSU/case/memory etc.
It's waiting for new CPUs and GPUs mainly as those make the most jumps.
If you are talking about D3 that is launching in Q2 so it's possible there could be new mid range cards out.
So just look for deals on 1.5V DDR3, a good PSU, and a nice case you like.
I can wait on my GPU as you suggested.Just grab the Excellent main parts.
The 2500K will actually help a lot in all the titles you listed.
If possible wait for AMD's mid range GPUs or Kepler on your 4890... Maybe buy used if you feel comfortable, something like a 560Ti or 6950.
GPU value isn't bad now, just it could be decently in not took long.
Yeah, just stick something in the fans and go nuts.My PC is dusty and hasn't been opened for months, maybe even a year and I want to clean out the PSU.
I got a little compressed air here but it makes a hell of a mess.
Would just securing the fans and vacuuming it out be ok?
I would give the 290.53 drivers a shot. I haven't played star wars, but they've been rock solid for me in all my games.
Ninite if you haven't already gone through everything.ITS ALIVE!!!!!
Pics later on today. I'm still installing everything.
I'd get a 128GB M4 or 830.Trying to decide on an ssd that is around $100-150. Are either of these two ssds any good?
Kingston SSDNow V200 128GB
or
OCZ Vertex Plus 120GB
Or would it be better going with a Crucial M4 64GB which is for $100. I'd kinda like having the extra space though.
Do you know how good the 830 is compatibility wise with Sata II (3 Gb/s)? I want to buy one for my brother, but his pc only supports Sata II. I know the M4 should be compatible with his system(his motherboard specifically), but I like how the 830 comes with a total transfer kit.Ninite if you haven't already gone through everything.
I'd get a 128GB M4 or 830.
Those drives are much cheaper for a reason. Slower older drives and not supported as well, higher failure rates, etc.
If you don't need one now, just wait to buy.
I just wanted to double check . . .Just grab the Excellent main parts.
The 2500K will actually help a lot in all the titles you listed.
If possible wait for AMD's mid range GPUs or Kepler on your 4890... Maybe buy used if you feel comfortable, something like a 560Ti or 6950.
GPU value isn't bad now, just it could be decently in not took long.
My PC is dusty and hasn't been opened for months, maybe even a year and I want to clean out the PSU.
I got a little compressed air here but it makes a hell of a mess.
Would just securing the fans and vacuuming it out be ok?
I just wanted to double check . . .
You're saying that my 4890 will work with the i5 and, say, this ASUS Z68 board? If so, I have no problems holding off on purchasing a GPU for a little while.
Why is the i5 2500k sold out on Amazon? Is the other chip coming this soon?
Get your FUD out of here. Drivers are equal between the two, AMD is just slow on crossfire profiles. But, you can create custom ones now anyway.
Maybe. What I heard (from Sapphire rep) is that AMD specifically held back the stock clocks on the inital release to set a lower bar for Nvidia with plans to have drastically increased stock clocks later on while dropping prices.
So, yes. Gonna get stomped by 680.
I'm about to get the 2120 and a 6870 when my tax refund clears the bank. I'm not really worried about it tbh. I already know It's not top of the line, but it will let me play most anything at good settings for awhile. That's all I can ask for really for 750 including a monitor.Damn you people for making me look at the 2120's performance. I could get an ASUS P8H61-M and 2120 for 200 dollars. And I could sell my current CPU on ebay for about 150 bucks profit. That means for about 100 dollars I could replace the CPU, motherboard, and RAM. That's tempting. Especially since it would allow me to hold out for new architecture from Intel (next gen beyond Ivy) and when I did upgrade, I'd have a killer, low power system for a HTPC system. I need to think about this. I just worry that with the next set of GPUs, the benchmarks won't be so friendly to the 2120.
Hey guys, I could really use some help right now. I'm trying to make the transition between AMD to Nvidia at the moment and AMD is making that pretty difficult.
I have the new card that I want to install, but right now I'm having a problem uninstalling the AMD drivers. I still have the AMD card in my PC, but when I go to uninstall all the software it fucks my desktop's colours and contrast beyond all recognition to where I have to set myself into high contrast and take screengrabs of the CCC install screens and adjust their levels in Photoshop to see what I'm doing. My colours normalize the moment I reinstall them, but I want to be rid of this already.
What do I do?
Maybe. What I heard (from Sapphire rep) is that AMD specifically held back the stock clocks on the inital release to set a lower bar for Nvidia with plans to have drastically increased stock clocks later on while dropping prices.
So, yes. Gonna get stomped by 680.
Try Driver Sweeper.
That's because there was some conflict between Guru3D, and the Driver Sweeper dev. some time ago.I thought drive sweeper was no longer supported because the developer started putting ads or something in the software? I seem to remember trying to find a copy to download and being unable to find it. Anyone?
You should always reapply TIM when your cooler, and CPU are separated. Obviously, clean both surfaces first.Hey, I have a question about thermal paste.
I have an stock i2500 with the pre-applied thermal paste and CPU fan.
However, my PC fell over (don't ask how), Leaving the CPU fan unattached to the CPU. I simply re-installed it, and thankfully everything else was OK.
So, does this mean I have to reapply some thermal paste? My temps vary between 30-40C when idle which seems higher than before, but I can't be sure.
That did it. What accursed software. Now to see how things are on the green side.Try Driver Sweeper.
·feist·;35133817 said:You should always reapply TIM when your cooler, and CPU are separated. Obviously, clean both surfaces first.
If you don't have some extra paste on hand you can get to it when you get to it, not urgent.Ah, I thought so. Thanks.
After a couple of years of gaming with SLI I can genuinely say that I've found my first game where I got severe microstuttering exclusively due to SLI ( obviously not the first time I've had problems but the first time I've been bothered to the point of actively trying to troubleshoot the issue).
Played some Dead Island with all the tweaks and patches and got a sense that something wasn't right, slowly moving or turning the camera would result in a little "jitter" that pulled me out of it. Almost like a sped up lagspike, it was so bad I had to turn off SLI and voila it worked flawlessly without.
I'm fortunate enough not to notice, when it exists, this dual gpu micro stuttering in mild cases but if more games would act like the way Dead Island acted I'd never ever keep with it.
ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Kingston HyperX Grey Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Desktop Memory
Combo for 148.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Combo...tion&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-cables-_-na-_-na
Bad idea? The RAM supposedly runs at 1.5v. Any opinions on that board? It looks nice.
As I've been looking around some today, it really does seem like the mobos are a lot more limited today than they used to be. So many crummy reviews. Used to be companies that had gold reputations in that space. And I'm in no mood to spend 200 bucks on one. If that's the case, I'll let my current system ride till my board dies.
EDIT: Nevermind. After reading all those DOA reviews, I think I'll just wait for something decent to pop up on Amazon. Don't want to deal with Newegg's lousy return service.
@Corky
You try altering the SLI profile to the alternate frame rendering? Generally fixes it for me.
That looked like a good combo to me, I have an Asrock mobo and Kingston HyperX memory and both work great. I wouldn't let bad reviews on motherboards scare you away, personally I think a good number of them are the result of installer errors rather than actual DOA hardware. Building a system has never been more accessible and there are more people than ever doing it. I've been building systems since the 286 days and have ordered hundreds of components over the years and can't recall a single piece of DOA hardware, and I tend to buy the cheaper stuff. I have had some mobos that appeared to be DOA only to find out the mobo was shorting out against the case, or I didn't have the CPU or memory properly installed, etc.