I H8 Memes
Member
Look forward to seeing your builds. One of the great things about PC gaming is that when you build a new pc or make a major upgrade every game feels new again.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
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Look forward to seeing your builds. One of the great things about PC gaming is that when you build a new pc or make a major upgrade every game feels new again.
faceless007
Member
So many people buying now? Am I the only one waiting for Ivy Bridge & Kepler?
I just applied for a new credit card, I get $300 back after spending $500. Hello free GPU.
I just applied for a new credit card, I get $300 back after spending $500. Hello free GPU.
GhostRidah
Member
Hey guys I need some upgrade help, my ati 4870 sounds like its about to die, the fan is super loud, what is a minimal upgrade cheap card?
I don't have plans to go hardcore until I build my new comp at the end of the year, I just need something as good or slightly better for a really good price.
I don't have plans to go hardcore until I build my new comp at the end of the year, I just need something as good or slightly better for a really good price.
AMD 7750
Well it depends on the price. Take a look at some benchmarks:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5541/amd-radeon-hd-7750-radeon-hd-7770-ghz-edition-review
http://www.anandtech.com/bench/GPU12/372
Ivy Bridge seems geared towards mobile improvements (lower power, less heat, faster GPU).
Haswell in early 2013 will be Intels next major revision. Probably will be considerably faster, though I'm skeptical they can iterate as much as Sandy did.
GhostRidah
Member
That looks pretty good, would it bottleneck my intel core 2 quad q660?
You need a Windows specific 360 controller. Normal ones won't work.
And is it me or is anyone else noticing SSD prices (specifically Crucial M4) fluctuating up and down every 20 minutes? I finally lock down my grand total, then I come back 20 minutes later and it's changed because the SSD is suddenly $20 more than it was the last time I checked my shopping cart.
Not anymore than it does now. In many areas the card performs about the same as the 4870.
EphemeralDream
Member
Nope, a regular 360 controller will work fine and should be auto-detected in Windows 7 and such.
Wireless 360 controllers require a USB dongle which I'm not experienced with.
soundahfekz
Member
Just bought a new hd 6850 and it seems like it's DOA? No fans spinning, no power seems to be getting to the card at all. put the 7600gt back in and it works fine. Is there anything I can check or test to figure out what the issue may be?
My PSU is 400w, but even under load all components in my system shouldnt be exceeding around 270w. Just reformatted, no overclocks currently. I plan on upgrading to a bigger PSU before doing anything intensive like gaming, but shouldn't the fans at least spin and the card display?
My PSU is 400w, but even under load all components in my system shouldnt be exceeding around 270w. Just reformatted, no overclocks currently. I plan on upgrading to a bigger PSU before doing anything intensive like gaming, but shouldn't the fans at least spin and the card display?
Planning on making a new system but I want to know if it is worth biting the bullet now on an i5 2500k system or waiting for Ivybridge. Is the upgrade going to be significant or should I just build now? Also I would assume prices would drop for current hardware so would it be better to wait in general for Ivybridge?
I do a lot of 3D modeling and use UDK, CryEngine, Photoshop etc just so you know what I need it for.
Price range would be around <£200 for a CPU btw. Don't want to wait for new hardware if it's going to be way outside my budget.
@soundahfekz 400w seems like it's on the low side. I'm not 100% sure but don't most cards require at least 500w?
I do a lot of 3D modeling and use UDK, CryEngine, Photoshop etc just so you know what I need it for.
Price range would be around <£200 for a CPU btw. Don't want to wait for new hardware if it's going to be way outside my budget.
@soundahfekz 400w seems like it's on the low side. I'm not 100% sure but don't most cards require at least 500w?
Tell us more about the PSU (i.e. model number). What's important is how many amps it outputs on the 12V rail.
Did you forget to plug in the PCI-e power?
I H8 Memes
Member
I stand corrected then. I see the question alot, most people try to use their play and charge kit to plug in to their PC's with no effect.
6870 best value and a good upgrade.
USB works fine. Wireless you need a special one (so I've heard)
It seems like it is a 10-15% speed boost per clock, so nothing amazing. OC ability unknown. Power draw will be lower. Could be 20% faster with a Ghz bump. 2500K will not disappoint.
It costs more right now and an onboard GPU helps with trouble shooting on a Z68 board.
Second line in the OP takes you to the Benching thread which has a guide section
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/36609-p55-overclocking-guide-beginners.html
faceless007
Member
Play and charge is just a power connection, not data. The controller is exactly the same.
I feel this is a stupid question, regardless of the answer.
I just purchased a GTX 570 of eBay and posted my GTX 285 immediately afterwards. Someone purchased my old card with the Buy It Now option (within an hour) and I'll still be waiting on the new card to arrive for a while between shipping away the old one.
I'm wondering, because they're both Nvidia cards (EVGA branded) will I need to uninstall the previous drivers before shipping away the card, or will it be possible to swap out using the same drivers?
I'm pretty sure I need to remove the drivers regardless, to ensure a clean installation, but I'm wondering if I could skip that step.
Thank you.
-Noob
I just purchased a GTX 570 of eBay and posted my GTX 285 immediately afterwards. Someone purchased my old card with the Buy It Now option (within an hour) and I'll still be waiting on the new card to arrive for a while between shipping away the old one.
I'm wondering, because they're both Nvidia cards (EVGA branded) will I need to uninstall the previous drivers before shipping away the card, or will it be possible to swap out using the same drivers?
I'm pretty sure I need to remove the drivers regardless, to ensure a clean installation, but I'm wondering if I could skip that step.
Thank you.
-Noob
Just install the new nVidia drivers on top.
Awesome. Hope your build goes smoothly.
Thanks, It should. I've been building PC's since I was about 13. I'm not so great on cleaning up the cables, but my g/f is a neat freak and already said she would do that for me lol.
demigod
Member
lol, I bet you didn't plug the pci-e connector in!
That's too awesome. Congrats man.
Sounds good thanks.
Just another question, regarding the motherboard for an i5 2500k. I see there are multiple "chipsets". Is there a huge difference between them? I see some of the prices are crazy like £200+ where as others are cheaper. Why is that? Do they make a big difference?
I use all six macro keys on my G15 along with the different memory banks, so having more available at once is a great boon.
Also, I'm done with Razer. I had a Lycosa which died on me in six months and another which lasted less than that, plus I'm on my second Deathadder. When this one dies I'll probably pick up a RAT5 or RAT7.
I H8 Memes
Member
Better quality and better stability when you OC. The mobo has to be able to handle overclocking as well.
I didn't get one of these boards, but right now it seems like the ASRock and to a lesser extent the Asus Gen3 1155 boards are the most popular. I'm sure they have multiple models of Gen3 boards so you will have to look closer into that to see which ones you want. In the US I believe they can be had for around $150.
p67 and z68 can overclock. Z68 has more features and is newer. It's around the same price which is why almost all the boards listed are Z68.
z68 gets you onboard video out, quick sync, and some ssd thing you can use
Some of that info is in the build list under the mobo section.
Razer seems to be one of those companies you really want to like but they just keep breaking your heart (and bank) over and over again with cheaply made overpriced crap.
Went out to Fry's and picked up the Samsung S23A750D this weekend.
I can definitively say that going to a 120hz monitor has been the most significant improvement to my gaming experience in years. It's simply amazing, even just moving the cursor around. Games at 120fps/120hz are mind blowingly smooth. Even when dropping to lower FPS, it's always smooth. No screen tearing, no stutters, no weird anything. This picture is the best possible way that I can represent what it looks like.
If you want to buy a nice monitor, 120hz is the first feature you need to look at in your checkbox. The S23A700D is a bit less expensive, but is the same panel. It just lacks some eco features and 3D glasses. The Benq 2420 and 2410 are great monitors as well, and support 120hz out through Dual Link DVI if you don't have displayport.
I can definitively say that going to a 120hz monitor has been the most significant improvement to my gaming experience in years. It's simply amazing, even just moving the cursor around. Games at 120fps/120hz are mind blowingly smooth. Even when dropping to lower FPS, it's always smooth. No screen tearing, no stutters, no weird anything. This picture is the best possible way that I can represent what it looks like.
If you want to buy a nice monitor, 120hz is the first feature you need to look at in your checkbox. The S23A700D is a bit less expensive, but is the same panel. It just lacks some eco features and 3D glasses. The Benq 2420 and 2410 are great monitors as well, and support 120hz out through Dual Link DVI if you don't have displayport.
You take what you can get at lower pricing, but I'd get the Samsung.
Thanks!
If that's directed at me, $275. Was an open box item, but I asked them to open it and test it in front of me to make sure it works. They open it, and the 3D glasses are missing (good for me, as I can't see 3D images in movies/games), so they take an extra $100 off. But it does work! Bring it home and have an issue where it auto hibernates every 10 minutes. Look it up, and it's due to a fan in the back of the stand not turning on. Open up the back, and the fan is that kind of blower style you see on reference cards. One of the blades is actually damaged and hitting against the side preventing it from moving. I cut the single blade off and all is well.
Pretty good score.
G500 would like to have a word with you.
Newegg has the 23" Asus for 289.99 after 30 MIR rebate. It's got a glossy screen (which is a plus or minus depending on viewpoint). I just can't justify the price to drop an inch. And the 27 inch just seems excessively overpriced (and has quality issues in the US). 500 would tempt me.
Think I saw someone here claim they got a 27 inch Samsung for 400 at Compusa. That I would have jumped at. But there must have been some special circumstance, because I don't think they ever had it listed for that.
Think I saw someone here claim they got a 27 inch Samsung for 400 at Compusa. That I would have jumped at. But there must have been some special circumstance, because I don't think they ever had it listed for that.
It's something that is hard to swallow at first, certainly. I hate hyperbole, I hate it when others use it, and I hate the phrases that have now been rendered useless due to overuse of them. I genuinely mean that this is the single best upgrade to my gaming experience since I logged on to T1 after going from a 28.8kbps connection to an @home cable internet. It's that significant.
*edit*
Also, final pic from a build I did this weekend for one of my teammates. Documented the whole thing with pictures and an article that will be going up on teamzfz.com. Might also end up just posting it here to be included in the OP for an in-depth building guide aimed at amateurs and first timers.
Specs:
2500K @ 4.6Ghz
8GB Corsair Vengeance LP
Maximus IV Gene-Z
Corsair 300R
Corsair H40
Corsair HX650
MSI 560Ti Twin Frozr II
Corsair F90 SSD
(yeah, aiming for corsair sponsorship)
*edit*
Also, final pic from a build I did this weekend for one of my teammates. Documented the whole thing with pictures and an article that will be going up on teamzfz.com. Might also end up just posting it here to be included in the OP for an in-depth building guide aimed at amateurs and first timers.
Specs:
2500K @ 4.6Ghz
8GB Corsair Vengeance LP
Maximus IV Gene-Z
Corsair 300R
Corsair H40
Corsair HX650
MSI 560Ti Twin Frozr II
Corsair F90 SSD
(yeah, aiming for corsair sponsorship)
Is that the suggested way to mount the HS? Seems like pushing would be better.
Also PM me again, I've been real busy lately.
I have this keyboard and I use it for gaming (BF3, MW3, TERA Beta, etc) and I love it. I know it is not a full mechanical keyboard but I don't use those keys often enough or have problems pushing the keys that aren't mechanical fast enough.
It takes some time getting used to just how fast and sensitive this keyboard can be, when I first started playing with it I would just by accident just from my thumbs hovering over the spacebar getting too close and actually triggering the key.
The build quality and feel are excellent, it is the best looking functional gaming keyboard around IMO. Everyone that has sat down in front of my computer complements it.
Sounds great! I'm not bothered about the macro keys, F keys and Page cluster being non-mechanical, as I don't use them anywhere near as much as I would use the main keyboard.
Plus, build quality is a major plus point, as I've already been through two Lycosa's and am now using my old G15 which is just poor. Plus I like the style.
Will pick one up next week I think. Can get it for around £90 which is pretty decent. Thanks for your thoughts!
In case anyone wants to roll the dice:
http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1948173&CatId=3774
356 for an open box 27 inch Samsung 120hz.
If you're using an Nvidia card, would need this (doesn't have d-DVI and needs diplay port for 120hz):
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10428&cs_id=1042801&p_id=4827&seq=1&format=2
I was tempted, but with tax and shipping, it takes it up to 399.99. And I just can't get over how the product page says you can't return this item unless it's defective (and only for an exact replacement). So why did they accept the return if it wasn't defective?
Plus this thread seems to have lots of people with various issues:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1629640&page=21
Seems too risky. Although Compusa was selling this new for 399.99 when they had it in stock. I would have went for that.
http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1948173&CatId=3774
356 for an open box 27 inch Samsung 120hz.
If you're using an Nvidia card, would need this (doesn't have d-DVI and needs diplay port for 120hz):
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10428&cs_id=1042801&p_id=4827&seq=1&format=2
I was tempted, but with tax and shipping, it takes it up to 399.99. And I just can't get over how the product page says you can't return this item unless it's defective (and only for an exact replacement). So why did they accept the return if it wasn't defective?
Plus this thread seems to have lots of people with various issues:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1629640&page=21
Seems too risky. Although Compusa was selling this new for 399.99 when they had it in stock. I would have went for that.
He might have that set up as an intake.
That adapter won't work, it's a single dvi passive adapter and you would need a dual link DVI (different from DVI-D which just means DVI digital) active adapter to pass through the signal.
Can someone recommend me a good Asus board for OCing a 2500k? Not too expensive, though. I'm hoping for both for less than $400 if possible.
And I'm hoping to sell off my current motherboard/CPU, what's a fair price to ask for?
And I'm hoping to sell off my current motherboard/CPU, what's a fair price to ask for?
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