Went a little crazy when I saw Micro Center had 3770ks for $240. I ended up getting a new mobo too. Asus Sabertooth z77. Pretty happy to be able to get my 3770k up to 4.7GHZ. Running a few hours in Prime 95 and so far no problems. Temps are in the 73~80 range. Seems decent enough. Does vcore @ 1.275 sound safe for this particular cpu?
"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Well, I might have messed up. I was installing the H60's radiator and I saw the Covering over the H60's thermal paste had come off and was slightly hit by other computer parts. Now, with this picture, does it warrant me going and buy new paste and applying it before giving this a shot, or do you think it is ok and should go for the install?
Thanks.
If the paste isn't solid, it's more than fine. Remember the point of thermal paste is to fill in tiny, tiny, tiny imperfections between the heatsink and the CPU. When you do thermal paste manually, you put a near pea size bead in the center and allow gravity and heat to spread it. Thermal paste isn't paint.
CharpyImpact
Member
Great thanks. Thought I was ok, just wanted to a sanity check.
Last Question of the night:
How do I attach a 120mm fan to this mesh metal thing? The holes won't line up near the top of the case since I have the DVD-ROM in there, covering a few key holes. I might be able to get 3 of the 4 screws in or do some creative work with antivibration clips. Or do I just say screw it and get a 230mm Spectre Pro to fill the gap that actually fits those holes? If you think I should get the 230mm, should I get Spectre Pro or Spectre Pro PWMs?
Thanks.
Dreams-Visions
Member
I'm interested only in so far as this stuff is beautiful. I wouldn't build my own rig like this. Not enough time. But these are beautiful to look at.
That's pretty high for 24/7 load, as far as temps go. Volts are fine though.
Doh. I will probably drop it by .1 and get the vcore down some more.
When you say 24/7 load do you mean disabling all the power saver settings and just letting it run at peak speed all day long? I don't usually do that. I know lots of people advice against it but I always leave them on. No point in wasting power. I've never had any stability problems once I get the right clock and vcore combo.
My mock up for accessories section. Comments would be appreciated! I would like to add more into the paragraphs in each section to explain what to look for and the differences between various products but was focused on getting all the images first.
Headsets
If a good mic isn't as important, check out Headphone GAF. The headphones there will always be better quality than the ones listed here (for the price).
Plantronics .Audio 655 - $35 . . . .
Fatal1ty - $40-50 . . . . . .
CM STORM Sonuz - $70
ROCCAT Kave - $110 . . . . . . . . .
ASUS Vulcan - $120 . . .
Sennheiser PC-350/360 - $150/$225 - Best microphone, worth it for that alone.
Microphones
Stand alone microphones so you can use your own headphones.
Zalman Clip on Mic - $9 - Works for a budget
Logitech USB Mic - $15 (eBay) - Much clearer, but picks up a lot if you aren't talking
ModMic - $35 Preorder - TBD
Keyboards
MX Brown = Quiet tactile, MX Blue = loud tactile, MX Black = stiff linear, MX Red = soft linear. Get Thermaltake/Razer if you need a numpad.
Rosewill RIKB - $10 . . . .
Logitech K200 - $25 . . . . . .
Razer Arctosa - $44
ROCCAT Arvo - $40-55 . .
Logitech K750 - $60-70 . . . .
CM Storm - Quickfire Rapid - $80
Thermaltake Meka -$80 . . .
Razer Blackwidow - $80 . .
Filco Majestouch 2 Tenkeyless - $140
Noppoo Choc - $100 . . . . .
Happy Hacking Pro - $344
Mice
Xornet is the best buy in mice below $60. Spawn for claw, Kova for palm, Kana for smallish hand palm. RAW is the best mouse. Normal sensei the best mouse with more.
Logitech SBF-96 - $15. . . . . . .
CM Storm Xornet - $30 . .
CM Storm Spawn - $40
ROCCAT Kova - $50. . . . . . . . . .
SteelSeries Kana - $55
SteelSeries Sensei RAW - $60 . .
SteelSeries Sensei - $100
mkenyon should write all the content and I'll format >_>
Headsets
If a good mic isn't as important, check out Headphone GAF. The headphones there will always be better quality than the ones listed here (for the price).
Microphones
Stand alone microphones so you can use your own headphones.
Keyboards
MX Brown = Quiet tactile, MX Blue = loud tactile, MX Black = stiff linear, MX Red = soft linear. Get Thermaltake/Razer if you need a numpad.
Mice
Xornet is the best buy in mice below $60. Spawn for claw, Kova for palm, Kana for smallish hand palm. RAW is the best mouse. Normal sensei the best mouse with more.
I took a drill and made my own mounting holes =$ Or you can try looping elastic/rubber bands trough the holes, I was doing that before.
EDIT: Also for above should I go 4 to a row? I was worried if there are any gaffers at 1366x768 it would be too tight.
shykyoichi
Member
Is the recommended GeFORCE GTX560Ti 1GB better than a Palit GTX650Ti 1GB OC?
if you're buying new get neither, a 660 or 7850 is a better buy in that price band.
what card is it? Ill guess a 5xx nvidia or 6xxx AMD if its a TF2 cooler.
even before knowing the card you'll more than likely be fine, the manufacturers always over estimate how much power you need to play it safe. As long as you e a good quality 450w you'll be fine.
Soodanim
Member
I don't know what sparked it (maybe the visit to PCworld.co.uk and seeing what I could get for the same sort of money), but I've achieved a state of clarity regarding how much to spend. I will definitely go for a 7950, but is the Gigabyte a good shout? The IceQ 7950 BOOST is on sale for £230.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£161.99 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£25.45 @ Scan.co.uk)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (£101.98 @ Dabs) Decent enough, right?
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£35.53 @ CCL Computers)
Storage: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£67.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Storage: Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (£77.90 @ Amazon UK) Both this and the Sammy 830 seem to be out of production, but this is more widely available
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card (£235.99 @ Dabs)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (£89.29 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (£49.98 @ Ebuyer)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer (£12.98 @ Scan.co.uk) This won't be the drive I get - it's a rough placeholder
Total: £859.08
OS is taken care of.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£161.99 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£25.45 @ Scan.co.uk)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (£101.98 @ Dabs) Decent enough, right?
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£35.53 @ CCL Computers)
Storage: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£67.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Storage: Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (£77.90 @ Amazon UK) Both this and the Sammy 830 seem to be out of production, but this is more widely available
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card (£235.99 @ Dabs)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (£89.29 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (£49.98 @ Ebuyer)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer (£12.98 @ Scan.co.uk) This won't be the drive I get - it's a rough placeholder
Total: £859.08
OS is taken care of.
Are those PC's with metal pipes cooled by Nitrogen?
Has anyone done a Nitrogen cooling here before?
I think Nitrogen cooling is very exaggerated.
Edit: At least for "normal" OC and gaming.
vvvv Edit 2: That's what I thought and I would never do a Nitrogen cooling, because like I said, it's too exxaggerated.
Has anyone done a Nitrogen cooling here before?
I think Nitrogen cooling is very exaggerated.
Edit: At least for "normal" OC and gaming.
vvvv Edit 2: That's what I thought and I would never do a Nitrogen cooling, because like I said, it's too exxaggerated.
no just water like with regular tubes
nitrogen (ln2), dry ice and other extreme solutions need to be constantly filled (as they evaporate), and will eventually freeze up the components so much (despite all insulation) that they're completely unsuitable for anything but short extreme overclocking/benchmarking sessions
the only daily usable cooling that goes below ambient is Phase-Change (like a refrigerator) or TEC plates, and even then it's usually a pain to insulate and very costly in terms of energy usage...
just start out with regular watercooling, that has more than enough cooling capacity, doesn't need insulation, is very silent and doesn't use extreme amounts of energy
Should have money in one week and that's when I should start building, but am still putting some final touches. I see these samsung memory being linked a lot in here. http://www.cclonline.com/product/84...12/?siteID=8BacdVP0GFs-3gry..uQUwuvbuz3QvHZvg
Are they a lot better than these Corsair I was about to buy.
Also has anyone in the UK ordered from CCL online? Never heard of them and scan nor amazon stock the samsung sticks.
Are they a lot better than these Corsair I was about to buy.
Also has anyone in the UK ordered from CCL online? Never heard of them and scan nor amazon stock the samsung sticks.
Great thanks. Thought I was ok, just wanted to a sanity check.
Last Question of the night:
How do I attach a 120mm fan to this mesh metal thing? The holes won't line up near the top of the case since I have the DVD-ROM in there, covering a few key holes. I might be able to get 3 of the 4 screws in or do some creative work with antivibration clips. Or do I just say screw it and get a 230mm Spectre Pro to fill the gap that actually fits those holes? If you think I should get the 230mm, should I get Spectre Pro or Spectre Pro PWMs?
Thanks.
I have the same case and the only way I see of putting 2X120 fans is to remove the dvd drive bracket (I don't use a dvd drive) but I haven't done it yet.
CharpyImpact
Member
Ya, only way I saw that too. I just bought a spectre pro 230mm instead, which doesn't require the drive removal. This is probably for the best since I was concerned about a lack of airflow.
cyen
Member
Hello, i have the exact same case and a H60, ive put the radiator on the back of the case and two intake fans on the front. The h60 is the old one, so the only way that the cables didnt get all bended was to put the radiator on the rear. Works pretty well that way.
Btw, this case have a fantastic airflow design (removed the extra HDDBAY and the DVD drive bay), it has so much room to do cable managment, when looking from outside one may think will be a clusterfuck but no, even with a 7970 and a non modular ATX powersupply (TX650) it gets plenty of space to the air flow between the front and the rear where the air goes out (almost like a straight tunnel). For 70$ this case was a bargain!.
CharpyImpact
Member
I agree about the case. The mITX guide in the first post suggesting this case was extremely useful. My build is basically the high end version from the guide. The only real decision I made was the gigabyte 7970. Originally I was going to go with the 660ti but the board convinced me otherwise.
I can't wait to finish the build process on Saturday to try this out. I will post pictures of my prodigy after everything explodes.
nextgeneration
Member
Buying parents a laptop. Which 128 GB ssd would you choose?
ocz vertex 4
or
intel 520
ocz vertex 4
or
intel 520
Is Haswell q3? 700/8000 series GPUs?
This summer 'The Beast' will turn two years old. For the most part its been consistent over this time. Only changes was going from the FT02 to the 500r, and flirting with a 690 for a few months l. And I guess adding a 2560x1600 monitor. Would like to do a refresh on it in the summer to keep it in top form.
This summer 'The Beast' will turn two years old. For the most part its been consistent over this time. Only changes was going from the FT02 to the 500r, and flirting with a 690 for a few months l. And I guess adding a 2560x1600 monitor. Would like to do a refresh on it in the summer to keep it in top form.
Looks really really nice, but we are going to replace a few things in there. Seems impossible to find a decent headset below $100. I think below the $100 mark, the only realistic option is the Steelseries Siberia v2. Everything else is just garbage. I think using a link to headphone GAF would make the most sense there.
For keyboards, it is good, but I'd throw in a link to www.mechanicalkeyboards.com, as well as replace the Choc with the Vortex KBT.
Mice are right on until CoolerMaster comes out with a new product that is rumored to be really good.
Just need monitors, which both Haz and I are fairly clueless on outisde of "120hz and korean IPS = good".
Glad you guys liked it. The Prodigy is one of my most favorite cases in recent years.
Still seems high. Fans? I'd also consider a remount. With the megahalems and a single Swiftech Helix, I was getting 72.5 average core temp at 4.6/1.20V.
Yes. The Samsungs can be clocked to 2100MHz pretty reliably. Plus they are very very low profile, and actually shorter than the clips on the end of the sockets.
Any idea on how good the sound/mic quality is for the Steelseries Siberia v2?
Im thisclose to buying the Sennheiser PC350 or 360 but I love the little retractable mic on the Steelseries. Sennheiser doesnt have anything like that....
Well, the Sennheiser sets are full on audiophile quality cans with THE BEST MIC. I can't stress how amazing the mic is on those. No one on my team uses anything else just because of the mic. If clear communication is important, there really isn't any other choice out there. Even in-game voice chat in Dota 2 sounds like the person is in the room with you.
If it isn't too much of a strain on the budget, it can't be beat.
Ive ordered a few parts from cclonline in recent times, without any problems, a reputable seller
This is pretty much what Ive been hearing. Everytime I headset shop, the Sennheisers come up at the top of my list.
They sound like they make good headphones too even when not using the mic.
Is the mic sturdy enough...like if I were to point it upward when not in use, its not going to fall down when I shake my head?
And are you referring to the PC350, 360, or both?
The whole headset is solid as a rock, I was skeptical because they are sorta collapsible but the build quality is stellar on them.
Latency and batteries suck.NoRéN;46017136 said:
I can see why people would like a wireless mouse but for keyboard if you are at a desk it never moves.
DJ_Lae
Member
That reminds me I need to pick up a replacement for whenever my G5 finally dies. I'm going to miss it.
Unfortunately most of the ones (if not all) I've seen online have been the ugly crackly purple ones. I have one of the older models that's coloured to look like it was in a bomb blast.
But maybe there's a newer model worth picking up if I can't get a G5 cheap...and at this point, they're pretty uncommon and expensive.
Unfortunately most of the ones (if not all) I've seen online have been the ugly crackly purple ones. I have one of the older models that's coloured to look like it was in a bomb blast.
But maybe there's a newer model worth picking up if I can't get a G5 cheap...and at this point, they're pretty uncommon and expensive.
I ended up getting a good deal on a wireless combo so it's nice to have keyboard and mouse hooked up through one mini usb device. I use rechargeable batteries so that's not a problem.
Are the mice more comfortable? My mouse is ok. However, I'm sure my keyboard leaves room for improvement. Are gaming keyboards more comfortable? Bigger keys or something?
Both. They're basically the same set, 360 = open ear, 350 = closed ear.
There's one wireless keyboard listed. Wireless mice are pretty much all bad, unless a bit of latency is fine with you. The G700 is supposedly the best out there, but even then it's still really bad compared to even cheap wired mice.NoRéN;46017136 said:
Get yourself the Sensei Raw. Or the Xornet/Spawn if you claw grip.
Most of the gaming keyboards listed in there are mechanical keyboards. They offer full NKRO through PS/2, which means every key that is depressed is then registered. There's a ton of times where key presses are either screwed up or flat out ignored on most USB keyboards, most people think it was their own error, but it isn't. In addition, the key is registered on a signal interrupt basis rather than a polling basis. Think of it this way: a USB keyboard is basically constantly being asked if a key is being depressed. It takes time for that to be answered and then put into the system.NoRéN;46017766 said:
The mice use better and more accurate sensors. Some, like the Sensei, can have the X, Y, and Z axes can all be independently configured to tailor the mouse exactly to how you play.
BolognaSoup
Member
I'm using a Fractal Arc Midi case with all the factory fans. Would I likely notice quieter fan performance if I replace the 140mm fans (at least the front one) with an after market Cooler Master 1000 RPM or something else?
Annnd...bought.
Ill make sure to tell Sennheiser to send you guys a royalty check
Great information. Thank you. Looks like I will be investing in a good keyboard/mouse. Already eyeing the CM Storm Spawn.
One last question, how do these mice hook up? I ask because my motherboard seems to only have one PS/2 connection. I have the ASUS P8H61-M LE/CSM from the Standard Build.
Mice are USB.
Nope. The stock fans are fairly quiet. To get a solid set of fans to replace them, you'd need to look at ~$10-15/fan replacements. Cougar Vortex 1200 and Arctic Cooling F12s are both around $10/fan, will push more air, and run more quietly.
How about the Uniengine Heaven benchmark?
RumblingRosco
Member
Just about done setting up my girlfriend's computer. One last thing I noticed; I was in the BIOS and realized my SSD is in IDE rather than AHCI. I'm not going to be using more than one SSD, but I'll be popping in a HDD for mass storage later on. Am I going to see any major issues leaving it as IDE instead of AHCI, short- or long-term? If yes, how do I go about changing this setting? I know I can manually adjust it through the BIOS, but I get a bad feeling that it may cause major issues since Windows 8 is already on there... basically, I'm worried it cause some problem where the system would no longer boot properly.
Any insight?
Any insight?
Your evidence, show it to me!
Without AHCI trim will not be enabled, which you want on a SSD sharpish.
I did this in Windows 7 and it meant a slight reg tweak, a reboot into bios to change the setting and all was good.
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=313676
It should still work....
*Edit* This looks more relevant.
http://www.ithinkdiff.com/how-to-enable-ahci-in-windows-8-after-installation/
Confidence Man
Member
I hope it's not too bad as I just ordered one (on sale at amazon now)
At least for the G700 you can use it wired too.
RumblingRosco
Member
I have read that TRIM will work in IDE, but that second guide is simple enough I might as well do it, so thank you! It's the last tweak needed for this build, I'm excited to finish it up tonight!
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