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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Delete old stuff through add/remove. Delete C:\NVIDIA\. Restart. Install new ones.
Some indie stuff maybe? Nothing too intense at all. Might ask in laptop GAF as laptop parts, despite similar names, can perform wildly different to their desktop counterparts.
Awesome, glad you like it!mkenyon, i finally got the Define R4 the other day. Really neat and my GPU temps went down considerably. Idling at ~27c and the upper 50's when playing FIFA; which before got to the higher 70's.
I was surprised how bigger it is compared to my old antic case.
Evidence submitted is thus:
Wireless USB = Latency.
I rest my case.
Still waiting on my actual bench to do some of my own testing, but from what I've seen, you still can't beat GT's. The Corsair SP Quiet Edition fans are also stellar for lower noise. Noiseblocker eloops if you are okay with spending $20/fan.
Hawk269
Member
Money is not an issue, I just want the best air flow for the RADS but also quiet. Which NB's are the best now?
It's hardly a regular wireless receiver. While I can see where you're coming from and it won't be theoretically as perfect as a cable, from using the mouse it really doesn't seem very far off.
It does have 1000 reports/sec polling rate support, so it's pretty good in that regard, and certainly better than some of the wired mice overall in my opinion.
Just one more stupid question, when I restart the computer it automatically installs old nvidia drivers, is there a way to stop it from doing it?
Damn.
Dropped my vcore to 1.2. It's sticking to the 64~72 range now. Just started my prime 95 run... hopefully it remains stable.
How did you manage to keep the cpu stable with that voltage? Nearly every guide/situation I read online pretty much says 1.25v is the min for just 4.5GHZ. 1.2 for that OC seems pretty rare. Hell, I can't even find anyone running 4.6 @ 1.22 either.
I'm still running 1333 ram. Any suggestions on a better set? I hear Ivy doesn't play well with certain ram.
Yeah, but by cheap, I mean like $30 Xornet. It doesn't really hold a candle. I tried out a friends during a LAN and at least in fast response games (Dota, Warsow) it completely threw me off. I think the polling rate, although similar, doesn't take into account the wireless lag. Just because something is being polled at 1000rps doesn't mean that the response is coming through at a similar rate. Seems like advertising BS.
soulassssns
Banned
Can anybody tell me what the difference is between the ASRock Pro3 and Pro4? Z77 chipset.
I see no difference other than price.
I see no difference other than price.
DJ_Lae
Member
It looks light, but it's cheap enough that I'll give the Xornet a shot as a backup. $11 at NCIX after rebate.
Right now I have my G5 with full weights and the sensitivity on max. I claw grip it which works well considering how little I have to move it, and the weight keeps it planted.
Yeah, delete everything in C:\NVIDIA\.
Gigabyte UP7. The power control and CPU socket section of the board alone supposedly costs Gigabyte $250 to make. Best RAM out there is the Samsung 30nm RAM. Runs at 2133MHz/1.5V almost guaranteed.
Thank you! All went fine.
Thank you!
Okay, I posted my to be build a while ago, but now that it is actually happening very soon. Thought I would get some last minute input.
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H
i5 3570K
Cooler master hyper 212
WD Caviar black 1tb
Samsung 128gb 830 (already own)
Fractal design R4 (Will that be big enough for two GTX 670s?
Seasonic 750KM X-Series (Will be adding a second 670 within a month.)
8GB Samsung
+ a cheap DVD drive.
This is quite a bit of money to spend at once and so just need to make sure everything looks good. Will there be any issues, eg cables with PSU not being long enough to route round the back of case etc.
Last build I did was a while back when the wolfdale chips had just launched
RumblingRosco
Member
One single stuck pixel on my new monitor, made by Zalman, but they only allow me to send it back if it has more than 5 stuck pixels. Any suggested potential home-fixes for a stuck pixel? Not the end of the world, but would like to fix it if possible. I found this website that has a few ideas I'll possibly try (except that fifth one... that seems scary), but I have zero experience dealing with this, so I was hoping GAF might have some ideas.
Could that small PSU run 2x 670 with overclock on cpu?
opticalmace
Member
Does anyone use an automatic backup solution? Preferably something that does differential backups. Thanks.
I need some networking advice.
I have the whole house wired for ethernet. And one nice n wireless router. But the house is three floors and wireless gets weak at the other end.
I am looking for something to add to the wireless. I can plug it into the wired port in the far room. Do I need to just get a second wap and set up a new ssid network? Can I use anything to keep the same ssid and simply have devices connect to either device?
I saw the Cisco linksys 1200 for $20 on amazon. Seems ok.
I have the whole house wired for ethernet. And one nice n wireless router. But the house is three floors and wireless gets weak at the other end.
I am looking for something to add to the wireless. I can plug it into the wired port in the far room. Do I need to just get a second wap and set up a new ssid network? Can I use anything to keep the same ssid and simply have devices connect to either device?
I saw the Cisco linksys 1200 for $20 on amazon. Seems ok.
Yep. I'd double check the PSU to make sure it has 4xPCI-E plugs though.
You're looking at about 400ish watts at load.
Only if unstable.
Have you installed your video card drivers?My computer is not recognizing my Twin Frozr ii at all i think.
halp
FallingEdge
Member
Going all in. First PC that I'm buying/building.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vIwg
http://www.corsair.com/us/pc-cases/...e-c70-mid-tower-gaming-case-arctic-white.html
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vIwg
http://www.corsair.com/us/pc-cases/...e-c70-mid-tower-gaming-case-arctic-white.html
or for an extra £5 there is this
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/550w-seasonic-g-550-modular-80-plus-gold-eps-12v-quiet-fan-atx-psu
change to a 3770K, also a lesser wattage PSU unless you're going SLI, something like a Seasonic G550 or X650.
I'd also change your RAM to the 30nm Samsung stuff.
The Henery
Member
Complete PC noob here. My laptops motherboard failed (served me faithfully for four years) so I need a new computer.
I have between £300 and £450 to spend (not a lot I know).
From the little research I've done it appears that:
- With that amount of money I won't be able to play decent looking modern games on it, at least at a smooth framerate
- As a former XP and Vista user, Windows 7 would be preferable for me over Windows 8
- It's better to buy online. Maybe.
Gaf got any strong recommendations with where to put the money? One thing that is a stupid question but I'll ask it anyway: do you get more bang for your buck with a desktop rather than a laptop? It seems obvious you would but I cross referenced a few towers against laptops and many of the deals online had the laptops with more RAM and memory for similar prices...
Thanks!
I have between £300 and £450 to spend (not a lot I know).
From the little research I've done it appears that:
- With that amount of money I won't be able to play decent looking modern games on it, at least at a smooth framerate
- As a former XP and Vista user, Windows 7 would be preferable for me over Windows 8
- It's better to buy online. Maybe.
Gaf got any strong recommendations with where to put the money? One thing that is a stupid question but I'll ask it anyway: do you get more bang for your buck with a desktop rather than a laptop? It seems obvious you would but I cross referenced a few towers against laptops and many of the deals online had the laptops with more RAM and memory for similar prices...
Thanks!
Mine has been dying a slow death for a few months now. Fingers crossed that my wife gets this potential translation contract and that it survives until Haswell.
FallingEdge
Member
whoops, yeah, I was going to pick a different PSU, guess I didn't update it properly.
Why change the RAM? Just a better product?
you'll get the best bang for buck by building a desktop yourself.
with that money you'll be able to play most games a good settings, a Pentium G870 and a 7850/7870 or a 660 would come in within your budget.
for gaming id stick to W7 unless you get a good deal on 8. Remember if you are or know someone in education you could get Windows for free.
yeah its generally better stuff. Overclocks extremely well if you want it to and its very low profile.
You know what's funny is my AMD Socket A setups (Athlon XP) assembled in 2004/2005 still perfectly run fine today, and they've been used daily. Went from XP -> Vista -> 7 in those years.
I guess that's what overclocking does to the life of a system.
Just got done, skyrim on ultra high oh my god yes.
I'm running a 2600K @ 4.8 + 670 SLI @ 1250/3800 (1.21 voltage flash) on a Corsair HX650
games and benchmarks run absolutely fine, Furmark runs as well but CPU stress test + Furmark at the same time = PSU shutdown
so a quality 650W is fine, but if I had to buy a new PSU I'd go for a 750W to be honest
(or possibly even 850W to be more "future proof" in case AMD/Nvidia might have some more power hungry next gen chips/cards)
My laptop is currently turned off, i've installed the wireless drivers. and the signal strength seems fine.
Download the RTL8192CE-VA4 driver "Windows driver auto installation program (support WinXP/Vista/Win7)"
http://www.realtek.com/downloads/do...278&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false&Downloads=true
Extract the files to a folder.
Go to Device Manager.
Right click the current wireless driver -> properties -> driver -> update driver -> "Browse my computer for driver software" -> "Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer."
"Have Disk."
Navigate to the folder path: RTL8192ce_WindowsDriver_1005.43.0913.2012.F0066.P0830_ISS_1.00.0187.L\88_92_CE_Driver\Win7X64
Select from ASUS or the Realtek for the Manufacturer. You may try different drivers from that list to see which one will work best.
CharpyImpact
Member
So, this has been a fun process. I just broke one of the pins on the 3.0 usb connector that you plug the case USB plug into when trying to unbend a pin. Besides not being able to use USB 3.0, are there any other implications to this broken pin. Of course, I won't plug anything into this broken connector.
This hasn't really done anything significant, my steam is still downloading very low, and the speedtest hasn't changed much.
Nah, it's fine.
Is using a cable out of the question?This hasn't really done anything significant, my steam is still downloading very low, and the speedtest hasn't changed much.
Could be an issue between router and card of some sort?
Since wireless runs off the technology of 'magic', sometimes you need to sacrifice a small animal to garner better support from the Wireless Gods. I've recently found that fresh kitten blood has been doing wonders for our wireless here at work.
Cables are out of the question mainly because our router is on the other side of our house. D:. It keeps going in and out at 1.5 mb/s and 5.6 mb/s
e:
Changed servers on steam. I'm guessing my internet is just slow tonight. If anyone knows what to do i'd be greatly appreciative.
e2:
Internet downloads are slow, steam is doing okay, this is annoying :lol
I see there's a bit of talk about the G700 so I'll throw in my two cents...
Been using one for about 4 months now and at the beginning I was using it wired because I really didn't want to depend on the battery but after a couple months I switched to wireless because the cable is a somewhat thick/hard cable and the way my setup is it was rubbing against my desk not letting me move the mouse with ease, especially when fast reactions were needed, so I switched to wireless about 2 months ago and I play a lot of games, especially online shooters and It's been rock solid so far, I haven't felt any lag whatsoever, the battery lasts between 2 to 5ish days depending how much you use it and it's charge time is pretty fast.
I definitely recommend it and even if you think you're getting lag or increased latency you can always plug in the cable but you might feel it's not really comfortable depending on your setup, also it adds a bit of weight/resistance to the mouse. What I do is I use another USB cable (the one from my phone) which is way lighter and easier to bend and move so I plug it in with that one if my battery dies.
Mind you I game on my desk and the reciever is right there maybe about 15-20 inches next to the mouse, if you plan to game from the couch or with an increased distance than that your mileage may vary and you might get latency issues.
Been using one for about 4 months now and at the beginning I was using it wired because I really didn't want to depend on the battery but after a couple months I switched to wireless because the cable is a somewhat thick/hard cable and the way my setup is it was rubbing against my desk not letting me move the mouse with ease, especially when fast reactions were needed, so I switched to wireless about 2 months ago and I play a lot of games, especially online shooters and It's been rock solid so far, I haven't felt any lag whatsoever, the battery lasts between 2 to 5ish days depending how much you use it and it's charge time is pretty fast.
I definitely recommend it and even if you think you're getting lag or increased latency you can always plug in the cable but you might feel it's not really comfortable depending on your setup, also it adds a bit of weight/resistance to the mouse. What I do is I use another USB cable (the one from my phone) which is way lighter and easier to bend and move so I plug it in with that one if my battery dies.
Mind you I game on my desk and the reciever is right there maybe about 15-20 inches next to the mouse, if you plan to game from the couch or with an increased distance than that your mileage may vary and you might get latency issues.
Hey guys I know this should be in the tech help thread but this one is more active so I thought I'd try here.
I thought I needed to change my power supply in order to support my new graphics card, on the box it says you need a minimum 400W PSU to run it.
My motherboard is old, discontinued old. It's an Intel Guardfish 965 series - DQ965GF
The graphics card is a Sapphire Radeon HD 5450 100292DDR3L.
The current PSU is the stock PSU. Power Man IP-350AJ2-0 (350W).
I also posted on gamefaqs - said because it's only a 10 watt card I should be fine with my curent PSU.. truth?
I thought I needed to change my power supply in order to support my new graphics card, on the box it says you need a minimum 400W PSU to run it.
My motherboard is old, discontinued old. It's an Intel Guardfish 965 series - DQ965GF
The graphics card is a Sapphire Radeon HD 5450 100292DDR3L.
The current PSU is the stock PSU. Power Man IP-350AJ2-0 (350W).
I also posted on gamefaqs - said because it's only a 10 watt card I should be fine with my curent PSU.. truth?
On a fresh install my BIOS only shows 2048mb of physical memory with 4gb installed, but in windows 7 (64bit) it says I have 4gb with only 2gb usable. Anyone know what this is? I already tried msconfig advanced boot settings but no dice? Also tried in BIOS settings but didn't find anything I could change
Yes you should be fine with your current PSU, usually videocard manufacturers will ask you for a PSU with more wattage than they actually need because they need to assume that you have more components so they have to up the wattage to compensate.
But the reality is that videocard consumption is much much lower, actually system consumption is really low and more often than not you do not need a high wattage PSU, it's better to go for a more reliable PSU than a high wattage PSU.
Also your videocard doesn't even have a power connector, it feeds from the motherboard and those cards require very little power.
This hasn't really done anything significant, my steam is still downloading very low, and the speedtest hasn't changed much.
Buy another wireless card.
CharpyImpact
Member
Wow. I am just not having luck with this whole PC building thing. So, I am really having a tough time determining what kind of SATA cable came with this Retail Seagate box 1 TB drive (St1000Dm003). There are no markings saying it is a 6 gb/s or 3 gb/s. How the heck do I figure this out?
EDIT: Wrong Model number. The says something different than the drive itself. What is going on.
EDIT: Wrong Model number. The says something different than the drive itself. What is going on.
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