The cable doesn't make a difference so it doesn't matter which one they included.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
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The cable doesn't make a difference so it doesn't matter which one they included.
CharpyImpact
Member
Great. Thanks. The one that came with the Mobo looked completely different and was marked. I guess it was just so you don't plug it into the wrong sata port.
The whole Sata II vs Sata III cables is just a marketing gimmick, it really doesn't affect performance and all Sata cables are able to transfer up to 6GB/s. It comes down to the controller (port) and drive to use it.
Dreams-Visions
Member
Can anyone advise me regarding a PC mic?
So I tried a Gamecom Commander, but the sound sucks and the headset is very uncomfortable. It's headed back to the store. I'd really rather use my existing headphones and instead find a quality lapel mic that I can attach to my shirt or to one of the cables coming from my headphones. Anyone know of a noise-cancelling lapel mic (or similar) that can connect straight to PC without need for pre-amping or anything?
Help!
So I tried a Gamecom Commander, but the sound sucks and the headset is very uncomfortable. It's headed back to the store. I'd really rather use my existing headphones and instead find a quality lapel mic that I can attach to my shirt or to one of the cables coming from my headphones. Anyone know of a noise-cancelling lapel mic (or similar) that can connect straight to PC without need for pre-amping or anything?
Help!
DeathGlobe
Member
I have a z77 extreme 4 running a 1.40 bios I just checked theres now a 2.70 which is way ahead of the one i have installed is it usually ok to install these? I looked at the past updates and they seem to add more feature such as win 8 support
CharpyImpact
Member
Ok. Last question of the night. Going to stop since this has gotten to be a pain in the butt and I need to relax.
So, I have the Corsair h60, which requires 2 molex 4 Pin power sources (Pump and Fan), and I have 2 case fans, a 120 mm and a 230 mm. Now, I have a mobo that only has 2 molex 4 pin power sources (CPU and Chasis) and a power supply that can feed another two 4 pins. What is the ideal setup for this?
This a good theory:
The H60 Fan directly connected to the CPU 4 pin, 120 and the 230 connected to the chasis 4 pin by splitter and the H60 pump directly to the power supply?
Man, this whole process was so much more complex than I thought it would be. I can't wait to be done with this. I have learned a lot, but going mITX right from the start has been not great.
So, I have the Corsair h60, which requires 2 molex 4 Pin power sources (Pump and Fan), and I have 2 case fans, a 120 mm and a 230 mm. Now, I have a mobo that only has 2 molex 4 pin power sources (CPU and Chasis) and a power supply that can feed another two 4 pins. What is the ideal setup for this?
This a good theory:
The H60 Fan directly connected to the CPU 4 pin, 120 and the 230 connected to the chasis 4 pin by splitter and the H60 pump directly to the power supply?
Man, this whole process was so much more complex than I thought it would be. I can't wait to be done with this. I have learned a lot, but going mITX right from the start has been not great.
DrForester
Kills Photobucket
I use an old logitech desktop mic. Use it in TF2, and FFXI, works fine. The model is out of production, but it's been running for a good 3+ years. I'd trust whatever model they use now.
This hasn't really done anything significant, my steam is still downloading very low, and the speedtest hasn't changed much.
maybe you should invest into powerline. It's more reliable than wireless by miles
Dreams-Visions
Member
I'd prefer a lapel style mic to a mic sitting on the desktop.
I may have to just get a XLR preamp for a decent lapel mic.
Run fans off of motherboard, remaining off of PSU. In either case, everything is going to be running at 100% (that 230mm spectre pro is going to be really loud at 100% too, consider an in-line voltage reducer). Don't run splitters off of the motherboard though, run splitters on the PSU. The Spectre Pro should have come with a Molex -> 3/4 pin fan adapter as well.
Appreciate it, thanks!
CharpyImpact
Member
Thanks. Let me see if understand you correctly, I should do this
CPU Fan slot = Corsair H60 Fan (Noctua NF-F12)
Chasis Slot = 120 mm Fan
PSU = 230 mm fan
PSU = Corsair H60 Pump
That right?!
Folks looking for a keyboard, the Razer Blackwidow Tournament Edition (tenkeyless) is on sale at NCIX US for $70, regularly $90.
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=78285&vpn=RZ03-00810200-R3U1&manufacture=Razer&promoid=1366
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=78285&vpn=RZ03-00810200-R3U1&manufacture=Razer&promoid=1366
Yes.
CharpyImpact
Member
Again, thank you!
http://www.tomshardware.com/news/amd-gpu-oland-8800-radeon,17643.html
As far as I've seen, that hasn't been debunked. Next wave of cards will be an interesting one.
RumblingRosco
Member
Added a 250 GB 2.5" HDD to my new build after getting everything else up and running. The HDD has 2 partitions right now, and I would like to 1) de-partition it and 2) format it to have it nice and clean for the new PC. I'm having trouble figuring out how to de-partition a HDD in Windows 8. Any advice?
Nevermind, I just learned about Windows Key + X = omgamazing.
Nevermind, I just learned about Windows Key + X = omgamazing.
What do you guys think of this build? My past computers had liquid cooling and worked well but I didn't end up getting one when I bought everything the other day.
AMD FX 6300 (3.5GHZ-6-Core) $100
Gigabyte 970A-UD3 Motherboard $50
HIS Radeon HD 7770 Ghz Edition $110
Corsair Vengeance 1600 8GB(4GBx2) $40
Thermaltake MK-Chaser 1 $100
Western Digital Blue 500GB 7200RPM $55
Raidmax RX-530SS Power Supply $40
Asus Disc Drive $20
2 Cooler Master 200MM Fans on top of the 2 200MM fans that come stock with the case. $25
By getting deals through Microcenter exclusively I managed to spend only $540 for all of this. I thought it was amazing deal to be honest, but I wanted some thoughts. I am building it this weekend when I have the time. I really only game for WoW, Diablo, Starcraft. Usually leave my computer on always. Do you think it will stay at reasonable temperatures or is it that big of a deal to go with 4 fans over liquid cooling?
AMD FX 6300 (3.5GHZ-6-Core) $100
Gigabyte 970A-UD3 Motherboard $50
HIS Radeon HD 7770 Ghz Edition $110
Corsair Vengeance 1600 8GB(4GBx2) $40
Thermaltake MK-Chaser 1 $100
Western Digital Blue 500GB 7200RPM $55
Raidmax RX-530SS Power Supply $40
Asus Disc Drive $20
2 Cooler Master 200MM Fans on top of the 2 200MM fans that come stock with the case. $25
By getting deals through Microcenter exclusively I managed to spend only $540 for all of this. I thought it was amazing deal to be honest, but I wanted some thoughts. I am building it this weekend when I have the time. I really only game for WoW, Diablo, Starcraft. Usually leave my computer on always. Do you think it will stay at reasonable temperatures or is it that big of a deal to go with 4 fans over liquid cooling?
Widdly Scuds
Member
I want to get into PC gaming and have done some reading/research but still really don't know what I'm doing.
Your Current Specs: N/A
Budget+Country: $800-1300 + US
Main Use: Gaming (5), Emulation (PS2/Wii) (4), light video editing (2), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) (4)
Monitor Resolution: My current monitor is 1920 x 1080
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: SSF4, SFxTK, Saints Row 3rd, GTAIV (iCEnhancer), Dead Space (1-2-3). Overall, I would like to run modern games at a solid 60fps at settings at least slightly better than current consoles and decently run nextgen games at 30fps+
Looking to reuse any parts?: N/A
When will you build?: I can wait and buy the parts over the course of a month
Will you be overclocking?: Only if necessary
Here's a build I came up with:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vMpb
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H60 74.4 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe Mini ITX LGA1155 Motherboard ($179.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($45.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Adorama)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($349.99 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy (Red) Mini ITX Tower Case ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($16.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($87.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1250.89
I think I could save money by going with windows 7 and going with a smaller capacity SSD and HDD. Also, If I go with a build like this would I need to add some 200MM fans?
edit: Actually I think I might go for an i5 3570k and put the money the extra money towards a a better graphics card (7970 or 680).
Your Current Specs: N/A
Budget+Country: $800-1300 + US
Main Use: Gaming (5), Emulation (PS2/Wii) (4), light video editing (2), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) (4)
Monitor Resolution: My current monitor is 1920 x 1080
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: SSF4, SFxTK, Saints Row 3rd, GTAIV (iCEnhancer), Dead Space (1-2-3). Overall, I would like to run modern games at a solid 60fps at settings at least slightly better than current consoles and decently run nextgen games at 30fps+
Looking to reuse any parts?: N/A
When will you build?: I can wait and buy the parts over the course of a month
Will you be overclocking?: Only if necessary
Here's a build I came up with:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vMpb
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H60 74.4 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe Mini ITX LGA1155 Motherboard ($179.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($45.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Adorama)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($349.99 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy (Red) Mini ITX Tower Case ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($16.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($87.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1250.89
I think I could save money by going with windows 7 and going with a smaller capacity SSD and HDD. Also, If I go with a build like this would I need to add some 200MM fans?
edit: Actually I think I might go for an i5 3570k and put the money the extra money towards a a better graphics card (7970 or 680).
Why you buying the OEM version of windows 8? you can get it for $40 from Microsoft.
Widdly Scuds
Member
That OEM copy was the cheapest option pcpartpicker gave me. Isn't $40 the price to upgrade from a previous version of Windows? I don't have any prior copies of a Windows os as I've been using OS X for the past six years.
fake edit: Actually I think I may have a windows xp disc in somewhere
fake edit: Actually I think I may have a windows xp disc in somewhere
I bought my 7950 last week anyway. Wait and you'll always be waiting when it comes to tech, especially when there's no set date.
IcyRhythms
Member
Looking to reinstall Windows soon and want to get some nice antivirus/internet security that will give me little to no trouble trying to game. Any suggestions? I'm willing to pay as opposed to the free ones.
Windows defender/security essentials is all I've ever needed for years now. Never had one issue crop up, when scanning nightly. If you're installing 7, it might still be an external download. I'm not sure. If 8, its built in.
IcyRhythms
Member
I'll be sticking with 7 for sometime to come.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
So there is a technician position opening up at work in the next few months, which should pay significantly more than what I do now.. Anyway, yesterday one of the lead engineers who is picking/training/whatever came up to ask me about it. I was caught off guard because it was the first day back to work after New Years, etc. Well, when he asked me about mechanical/technical aptitude the first thing that kept to ind was my computer I built about 2 months ago. As luck would have it he just did a build too! So we immediately jumped into nerd out mode. (my rig is better 
) Anyway, I'm feeling pretty good about my chances of being picked/promoted now! Granted there's not exactly a ton of competition, but it was still a nice thing to have happen. My computer might have got me a better position!
) Anyway, I'm feeling pretty good about my chances of being picked/promoted now! Granted there's not exactly a ton of competition, but it was still a nice thing to have happen. My computer might have got me a better position!Dreams-Visions
Member
jack_nicholson_headnod.gif
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
I want like a desktop conference mic.. Something flat and noise canceling so I can have a few people locally all chat through it to my buddy down south.
The standard build in the OP is better all around than this build for the same amount. You could even squeeze a 7870 with it for less than 600 with the standard build.
Problem is shipping time. But they seem to have it mostly worked out. If your onboard mic input sucks you might need a soundcard.
I don't know about the noise cancelling part (Hopefully you could have some activation limit in software you are using), but I'm pretty impressed with the Blue Yeti mic I just picked up. *And I guess I grabbed the last of them at sub $80
Dreams-Visions
Member
we'll see soon enough.
x3r0123 said:
I had similar issues, I just moved and got a new cable modem with built in wifi, which was much weaker in range than my old router. I could get a signal everywhere, but it was particularly weak in my home office (was seeing sub 10mbps speeds...and my internet connection is 50mbps)...and of course my wife would kill me if I started stringing Ethernet cables across the ceiling from room to room. I tried turning my old router into a wifi bridge (as my desktop didn't have a wifi adapter at all) but the connection was so unreliable that you really couldn't download anything, it would drop every 10-20 minutes.
So I ended up doing exactly x3r0123's suggestion - grabbed some 500mbps Powerline network adapters, and connected one end to the cable modem and another to a gigabit switch in my office. Then I took my old router and turned it into a wifi AP in my office - instant great wireless coverage throughout my home. I ended up buying another pair of Powerline adapters to use in other rooms for wired Ethernet only devices. BTW, if you need gigabit-ish speeds, make sure the 500mbps adapters you buy have gigabit Ethernet ports, some only have 100mbps Ethernet. (For my second pair I bought the cheaper ones for devices in other rooms that didn't really need the speed as much.)
sorijealut
Member
I agree. The new gains and a promising price range is very intriguing indeed, but I simply can't wait until Q2.
Stupid question, but I can't seem to find an answer elsewhere:
Just bought a 250GB Samsung 840 SSD from Amazon, but it's actually only 232GB. Going by the 1000kB = GB standard, it should be closer to 244GB, so that's a loss of 12GB.
Is that normal? Am I being nitpicky over nothing?
Just bought a 250GB Samsung 840 SSD from Amazon, but it's actually only 232GB. Going by the 1000kB = GB standard, it should be closer to 244GB, so that's a loss of 12GB.
Is that normal? Am I being nitpicky over nothing?
I looked into this a while ago and what I found suggested that the controller uses that space for over provisioning, basically keeping a certain amount of free space on an ssd at all times will allow it to perform better and last longer, this is built into some controllers and not into others thus the different drive sizes. Not sure if this is accurate or not.
Hmm.. Thanks for that. I recall seeing an option listed for this under Samsung's Magician Program but I didn't know what it was. I checked it out and it turns out it's not using any OP at all, but recommends a size of 23GB.
Is it normal for an SSD to be missing anywhere upwards to a full 12 GBs over just manufacturing variations?
There is 7% over provisioning by default, the setting in the Samsung tool is just extra.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/278446-32-samsung-magician-provisioning
Not the best source but apparently he's getting that from Samsung documentation.
Awesome. Thank you for that. I was doing a bit of research on Samsung's website and found this:
Solid State Drives: Why Is My Storage Capacity Less Than The Actual Drive Capacity?
Samsung SSDs conform to the International Disk Drive Equipment and Materials (IDEMA) standard, which classifies approximately 93 percent of their actual physical memory capacity as usable space for storage.
Samsung SSDs conform to the International Disk Drive Equipment and Materials (IDEMA) standard, which classifies approximately 93 percent of their actual physical memory capacity as usable space for storage.
And surprise, surprise. If we were to ignore hidden OP completely, the "93 percent" compliance accounts for exactly the amount I'm missing (232 VS 232.5). That's a huge amount of PSD files I could be using it for.
MichaelEM3
Banned
Hey PC GAF, do you guys have any recommendations for affordable speakers that work well with the ASUS VH236H? I'm really liking the everything else about the monitor, but the built-in speakers leave a lot to be desired. The audio seems really low in some YouTube videos and games.
So, I need to find a thinner 120mm fan. 25mm doesn't fit anymore since I added my 660ti. My temps are actually still pretty good, and this is the front fan in the case so it just needs to be an open-air fan.
I have a Gentle Typhoon blowing through my Hyper 212 and a S-Flex exhausting out the back, but I need a thinner than 25mm for the front of the case. Anyone have any suggestions? I see they used to make a 12mm Scythe, but it's apparently no longer in production. I found a 20mm Yate Loon on Amazon, but I'm not sure that's going to be quite thin enough.
I have a Gentle Typhoon blowing through my Hyper 212 and a S-Flex exhausting out the back, but I need a thinner than 25mm for the front of the case. Anyone have any suggestions? I see they used to make a 12mm Scythe, but it's apparently no longer in production. I found a 20mm Yate Loon on Amazon, but I'm not sure that's going to be quite thin enough.
Maybe he doesn't feel like spending money to upgrade a great OS?
If it was a new build, no reason not to go with 8, but if you already own 7 I don't see a good reason to upgrade. It'll be supported for years to come.
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