Read this, hopefully it helps explain the difference between sgssaa and ogssaa and the blurriness that happens.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Read this, hopefully it helps explain the difference between sgssaa and ogssaa and the blurriness that happens.
Do they not though have the thing in their warranty where they send you the replacement first before you actually send back your defective card? That's a pretty awesome thing to have imo.
RumblingRosco
Member
Sent in a $15 rebate to Zalman a few weeks ago for a monitor I purchased. Got an email today that said my rebate won't be accepted for the following reason:
I didn't really understand what this meant and assumed that I some how accidently sent in the shipping label barcode instead of the product UPC code. So, I double checked my monitor box, and sure enough, I sent in the correct UPC code. Confused, I checked the link they sent me that had an uploaded PDF of my paperwork:
That's just a portion of the upload, but that big black space in the bottom left? That's where the UPC was taped. I tried to email them, and surprisingly, their email was automatically returned with an error (Gmail essentially said the email didn't exist). I was feeling like this was going to be one of those times that a rebate simply fails, but as a last effort, I gave their help line a call. Got through some automated shit to a real person and once there the person said that the reason they couldn't process it is because they couldn't read the UPC based on the scanned image (same one as I showed above).
At which point, I'm saying, "Wait, you cannot read the file because the scan you made is bad, and now I am out my rebate? Can you go look again at the physical paperwork I sent you?" Apparently, it would take "6-8 weeks to locate the specific documentation after it has been initially received and scanned" which would put my rebate application material in well after the deadline (January 31st, I think). They seemed to be suggesting that the only route from here was for me to re-send my materials again.
The good news, was that I literally said "As a courtesy and a personal favor, would you possibly accept my paperwork as-is?" and they simply said "Sure, that's fine" and I got a confirmation email about 5 minutes later saying it has been approved and my rebate card would be here in a few weeks.
Summary: Rebate almost got denied, but their customer service, while a bit weird to handle, was very accommodating in the end. I'm batting 1.000 on getting rebates through my first roughly 8 rebates I've ever sent in for computer parts, so I'm pretty happy with that!
I didn't really understand what this meant and assumed that I some how accidently sent in the shipping label barcode instead of the product UPC code. So, I double checked my monitor box, and sure enough, I sent in the correct UPC code. Confused, I checked the link they sent me that had an uploaded PDF of my paperwork:
That's just a portion of the upload, but that big black space in the bottom left? That's where the UPC was taped. I tried to email them, and surprisingly, their email was automatically returned with an error (Gmail essentially said the email didn't exist). I was feeling like this was going to be one of those times that a rebate simply fails, but as a last effort, I gave their help line a call. Got through some automated shit to a real person and once there the person said that the reason they couldn't process it is because they couldn't read the UPC based on the scanned image (same one as I showed above).
At which point, I'm saying, "Wait, you cannot read the file because the scan you made is bad, and now I am out my rebate? Can you go look again at the physical paperwork I sent you?" Apparently, it would take "6-8 weeks to locate the specific documentation after it has been initially received and scanned" which would put my rebate application material in well after the deadline (January 31st, I think). They seemed to be suggesting that the only route from here was for me to re-send my materials again.
The good news, was that I literally said "As a courtesy and a personal favor, would you possibly accept my paperwork as-is?" and they simply said "Sure, that's fine" and I got a confirmation email about 5 minutes later saying it has been approved and my rebate card would be here in a few weeks.
Summary: Rebate almost got denied, but their customer service, while a bit weird to handle, was very accommodating in the end. I'm batting 1.000 on getting rebates through my first roughly 8 rebates I've ever sent in for computer parts, so I'm pretty happy with that!
Koroviev
Member
I have a $15 rebate on my 7850, but I'm feeling pretty lazy.
Only if you pay extra for it
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
Hmm. Very technical but I think I follow. So supersampling is essentially rendering a very large image and then downsizing it to fit your screens native res, right? And when you do that you lose detail because you are degrading the signal/data.. so you change the LOD bias to account for the lost detail that occurs when the image is downsampled? Is that kind of the jist of it?
At any rate, in a lolworthy comedy of errors I had lod bias set to 1.5 instead of -1.5. I had reset to defaults when I finished episode2 a few nights ago and just hastily reconfigured the settings this morning before playing L4D, lol. Game looks gorgeous now.
Not sure if they do matching but their prices are fairly competitive, total build is $50-80 more than the big online retailers so I'll check that out. Will definitely build myself. I'm getting incredibly excited now. Will be building it sometime before the end of this weekend, I think. Woo!
Only need to nail down the GPU now. Their 670 selection is a bit limited but I'll probably go with the MSI over their EVGA options. Not sure if jumping up to the 680 will be worthwhile for me, but any opinions on the MSI Twin Frozr OC 680?
Koroviev
Member
My 7850 is a Twin Frozr OC and it's great. Runs very cool and quiet.
Only if you pay extra for it
Oh, damn
I thought that was just part of it, too good to be true!This looks like the thread to ask this in so here goes. I've been looking for a new case and had initially decided on checking out the Corsair 600t but after reading a few things and a pm later I decided to keep looking. Anywho, anyone have the NZXT Switch 810 and, if so, can you share your thoughts/opinions on it as that is the case I've decided to go for at the moment.
SlaughterX
Banned
Ok so I have never built a computer from the ground up before but I have an idea of what I want and added a bunch of stuff to my NewEgg cart and I was wanting some input on if all this stuff is even compatible and what I might need to add (obviously a motherboard, looking for suggestions there because I don't know where to start... I want the option of running Crossfire/SLi in the future, needs USB 3.0, maybe built in wifi).
SuperSonic1305
Member
Is there anything I need to know when buying a new case? The inside of mine is a mess of wires and dust. I was thinking of getting the 400R.
I'm also trying to choose a case for my mid-range build. 400R looks like a nice one.
This is the monitor I'm eying currently. Any suggestions for 1080p monitors I should consider in this price range? ($160-$200) Is the VS series preferred for Asus monitors?
Edit: Maybe I'm getting cold feet, but I'm starting to think I can get by just fine with a 660ti (or maybe 7950). Especially since I'll be running at 1080P. The gap between the 660Ti to 670 doesn't seem very large.
This is the monitor I'm eying currently. Any suggestions for 1080p monitors I should consider in this price range? ($160-$200) Is the VS series preferred for Asus monitors?
Edit: Maybe I'm getting cold feet, but I'm starting to think I can get by just fine with a 660ti (or maybe 7950). Especially since I'll be running at 1080P. The gap between the 660Ti to 670 doesn't seem very large.
Follow the OP.
Tell me what you would like and I can match you up just fine.
My personal preference, <$50 - BitFenix Outlaw, <$80 - CM 690II, ~100 - Fractal Define R4
You have to make sure, that your mobo will fit into the new one and other components, like fans and the CPU heatsink.
I don't know, what your current setup is, but the 400R seems pretty okay for cable management and additional fans. You should be fine.
SuperSonic1305
Member
My mobo is X58A-UD3R and Noctua NH-U12P
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
Says 169.99 for me. This is the PSU I settled on as well so it would be great if it was that cheap.
$20 rebate + $40 Promo code
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
Shizzlee
Member
I've been following the thread on and off for awhile, waiting for a chance to have the money to do this. Now I think I have enough. I made an account at PC Partpicker. Used that handy grid to help out a bit. I'd love to hear opinions since I'm really not sure what I'm doing.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/y2Co
I'm not sure which which way I'll go with the OS yet, but I'll most likely stick with Windows 7. On the monitor, keyboard, and mouse I'm completely stumped. Need some help with those.
Let me answer that nice questionnaire in the op.
Do I have to post this? It's a store-bought pos from almost six years ago.
I'd say between $1000 to $1500 but can go a little higher, USA
Video Editing, encoding, capturing, and maybe streaming (It won't be HD streaming that's for sure. My internet connection is not good enough) = 5
General Use = 4
Gaming = 3
Emulation = 2
Not sure on the exact resolution. I most likely will not upgrade later. Yes, I'm buying a new monitor.
Don't really care to be honest. I most likely won't be doing that much gaming on pc. I just want to build a new pc for as good as I can within that budget. I'd rather do this instead of buying another one out of a store.
Yes. I have one of these that I'd like to transfer over: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815100049
I'd like to do it next week. It's probably too late in the week to make this weekend feasible.
I doubt it. Maybe so I guess that means yes. A possibility if do get into pc gaming for whatever reason.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/y2Co
I'm not sure which which way I'll go with the OS yet, but I'll most likely stick with Windows 7. On the monitor, keyboard, and mouse I'm completely stumped. Need some help with those.
Let me answer that nice questionnaire in the op.
Do I have to post this? It's a store-bought pos from almost six years ago.
I'd say between $1000 to $1500 but can go a little higher, USA
Video Editing, encoding, capturing, and maybe streaming (It won't be HD streaming that's for sure. My internet connection is not good enough) = 5
General Use = 4
Gaming = 3
Emulation = 2
Not sure on the exact resolution. I most likely will not upgrade later. Yes, I'm buying a new monitor.
Don't really care to be honest. I most likely won't be doing that much gaming on pc. I just want to build a new pc for as good as I can within that budget. I'd rather do this instead of buying another one out of a store.
Yes. I have one of these that I'd like to transfer over: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815100049
I'd like to do it next week. It's probably too late in the week to make this weekend feasible.
I doubt it. Maybe so I guess that means yes. A possibility if do get into pc gaming for whatever reason.
They'll try to scam you out of it.
I always send mine in with a photo of the attached UPC and filled out form.
Good solid list. Some things are out of stock so I'd say get an m4 SSD and the RAM from Amazon. Upgrade the 3570K to a 3770K (or a cheap 2600K/2700K) if you are doing video editing and encoding.
Monitor depends on your need for color reproduction and size. If you don't care that much for gaming you can look at some of the $170 23" E-IPS panels from Dell and Acer.
Keyboard depends if you want mechanical, extra features, backlighting, matte, glossy, etc.
Mouse again depends on your grip and most in the OP are gaming mice.
MAX Budget and preferred spending amount for both of those would be helpful (as what you want from your mouse, how you hold it, etc.)
Horse Detective
Why the long case?
What happens when people try to game with a 21:9 monitor? Most games only have an option up to 16:9.
Are there black bars?
Are there black bars?
Shizzlee
Member
Ok. Thank you. I decided to upgrade to the 3770K.
Cool. I'll look into those.
Oh, there's a section in the op for mouse and keyboard. I missed it the first time. I looked through there and decided to go with the CM Storm Xornet for mouse. For keyboard, I'm still unsure. It doesn't have to be mechanical. I'd prefer it to be matte instead of glossy. A backlight would be nice. Price is not a big deal since I still seem to be within my budget. I actually saved $2000 for this, but I went lower than that for the budget to see if I could hang on to some of that $2000.
Take a look at the mechanical keyboard thread (Linked at the top of the first post) and Geekhack forums to figure out what type of mechanical key switch you'd like, then you can look at keyboards from there.
Backlighting limits your options.
Shizzlee
Member
Alright. Thanks. So, once I pick out the keyboard I should be set.
Hmmm, anyone else having problems with the latest Nvidia drivers? ( .90 ) - Whenever I start up my machine, it starts in 800x600 and can't find any GPU. Then I need to restart and everything works fine. Downgrade to .70 and it works perfectly, upgrade again and the issue comes back.
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
I have a nice ASUS DIRECTCU II 670 on my list but then spotted this MSI Lightning 680. It uses the Twin Frozr IV cooling design and looks to OC very well and be damn good temp wise.
Anyone have experience with MSI Lightning cards? Reviews are excellent on that one in particular.
Anyone have experience with MSI Lightning cards? Reviews are excellent on that one in particular.
Check with your uni to see if you're eligible for a free copy, or if you've any friends say doing electrical engineering for example they'll likely have MSDN access and could get you a copy.
By any chance, probably a long shot, do you have your CD key still?
memecomplex
Member
Yes I had to roll back. Apparently it has issues with some cards, GTX 690 that I know of. Also game performance is weird, I get artifacts and stuff in Hawken. A stealth revision is supposed to be out. Might worth redownloading it. Personally I'm waiting till the end of the week or so to see how this all pans out.
Thanks, running 680 SLI so might be an SLI issue overall. I'll try re-downloading from Nvidia and check.
I'm looking to build a Software controlled RAID server (ZFS) with 8x SATA ports and I'm wondering if this mobo would be a good fit:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157301
Thoughts?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157301
Thoughts?
Back from micro center with my stuff, yay. Now the fun part.
Quick question: I got a Fractal R4 that includes 2 fans in the case. Is that sufficient for my stock medium level build or should I add more where there are spots for them? That's my first real issue, should I get more 140mm fans?
Quick question: I got a Fractal R4 that includes 2 fans in the case. Is that sufficient for my stock medium level build or should I add more where there are spots for them? That's my first real issue, should I get more 140mm fans?
No.
If you end up going overclock crazy down the road get them then, but chances are you won't so don't waste the money and raise your noise floor for no reason now.
It has VT-D support, which I know is important for a lot of software RAIDs. A friend just used the same board in a Server 2012 build, and he loves it.
OC ability is all on chip lottery. There's nothing that these cards can do that really help push the boundaries of the GPUs. These were built initially to allow for volts beyond the NVIDIA specifications, but were locked down after NVIDIA threatened to remove RMA support.
7970 is the way to go if you want to push clocks for the purpose of pushing clocks.
Yeah, the two stock fans are sufficient for just about any standard build.
Check the Laptop Thread in the OP.
awesome. Does he have an recommendations for a cpu?
ok, thx for tip
AMD waiting on WHQL certification for the 13.1 drivers, supposed to be out tomorrow now.
Also mkenyon, this should interest you. AMD 13.2 beta, a driver update to reduce Radeon frame times.
Also mkenyon, this should interest you. AMD 13.2 beta, a driver update to reduce Radeon frame times.
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
I agree and have read the reviews but the things that matter to me are performance and temps as well. I read the reviews including this one here that I'm reading now and I am super impressed by the temps and some of the tech that MSI uses.
Very happy to read that. Makes me tempted to stick with AMD but I am still deciding on whether or not to get an AMD/nvidia GPU.
Seating my CPU now, the force needed is scaring me, maybe because it's making a little sound as I tighten it. CPU appears to be seated perfectly though.
Edit: seems fine, was just psyching myself out. So far so good. Seems like the toughest part will be the Hyper 212 Evo. I'm putting thermal paste on the cooler heatsink itself, is that correct? Would love to find a build video with the Asus P8z77 mobo, no luck so far
Edit: seems fine, was just psyching myself out. So far so good. Seems like the toughest part will be the Hyper 212 Evo. I'm putting thermal paste on the cooler heatsink itself, is that correct? Would love to find a build video with the Asus P8z77 mobo, no luck so far
I just installed a 212 EVO yesterday and it wanted it on the heatsink. Put it on the CPU. It's flat enough it shouldn't matter.
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