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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
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Xdrive05
Member
Haswell is being geared toward efficiency and lower power consumption for mobile/laptop platforms rather than higher performance for top end desktops, so don't expect a 50% gain over Ivy for a gaming machine. That said, it probably will be the usual 5-15% bump, and presumably it will be a great overclocker if the hype is true.
Not worth waiting for IMO unless you're still mostly happy with your current CPU.
Just built another PC for a friend using the setups in the OP.
I get an CPU Fan error when booting. I check the Bios and the hyper 212 evo fan is only running between 500-570 rpm when idle. This error goes away when setting the CPU warning limit in BiOS, down to 400rpm. Everything is plugged correct as far as i can see.
Is there a reason that the ASUS P8Z77 -V motherboard is doing this? Should i update Bios?
I get an CPU Fan error when booting. I check the Bios and the hyper 212 evo fan is only running between 500-570 rpm when idle. This error goes away when setting the CPU warning limit in BiOS, down to 400rpm. Everything is plugged correct as far as i can see.
Is there a reason that the ASUS P8Z77 -V motherboard is doing this? Should i update Bios?
FallingEdge
Member
I had this issue as well. There is nothing wrong and it is as simple as changing the default values like you did. If you google CPU Fan Error, you will see lots of people in the same situation.
Hey guys, I need some help.
Can I put this processor:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116501
Into this motherboard:
http://www.asus.com/Motherboard/P7P55DE/
I'm confused about the wattage as well... how can I tell what wattage my MB supports? Or does it support any wattage?
Also, how hard is it to switch CPUs these days? The last time I did it was on a pentium 5. (I currently have a 2.6 ghz i5 on the motherboard)
On a sidenote, I'm open for any advice as to what new processor I should put on that motherboard.
Thanks!
Can I put this processor:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116501
Into this motherboard:
http://www.asus.com/Motherboard/P7P55DE/
I'm confused about the wattage as well... how can I tell what wattage my MB supports? Or does it support any wattage?
Also, how hard is it to switch CPUs these days? The last time I did it was on a pentium 5. (I currently have a 2.6 ghz i5 on the motherboard)
On a sidenote, I'm open for any advice as to what new processor I should put on that motherboard.
Thanks!
Anton668
Member
I was thinking about ordering a new desktop within the next couple of months. Sounds like I really don't need to wait till Haswell. Thx.
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WRONG
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Those two parts are not compatible. You can't put a Socket 1155 CPU into a Socket 1156 Motherboard! Good way to kill both..
Edit. To see what CPUs are compatible with that motherboard, click the Support tab on the page you linked then click "CPU Support"
SO I'm in the process of building a computer, slowly buying the parts as they go on sale and stuff like that, but I need to ask you guys..
Windows 8 or Windows 7? I've played around with Windows 8 (cousin had a Surface and a Laptop with it installed), and I honestly didn't care for the interface (yes, I know 8 has a desktop view too). Any reason why I should use Windows 8 over Windows 7?
Windows 8 or Windows 7? I've played around with Windows 8 (cousin had a Surface and a Laptop with it installed), and I honestly didn't care for the interface (yes, I know 8 has a desktop view too). Any reason why I should use Windows 8 over Windows 7?
No real reason not to use it. No real reason to use it.
Windows 7 has the advantage of being proven and polished because it is old, but it's old and support will begin to slow
Windows 8 has the advantage of being the forward looker, though slight issues are being found among a very small crop of titles; Windows 8, under the hood, is a better performer than 7, though it has been having latency issues in some titles. The Win8 App store is getting exclusive titles like Pacman DX, Skulls of the Shogun etc..etc...
At this point, I'm okay with Windows 8. I've used it enough to adjust to the start screen interface even using a trackpad or mouse. The integration with social and cloud services make for a nice experience. I like the Windows 8 apps and store and having Xbox games tie into the Live ecosystem doesn't hurt.
If you don't like it, you can always install Classic Shell or any other number or start menu replacements to get it looking and working like Windows 7 or any other previous version of Windows.
If you don't like it, you can always install Classic Shell or any other number or start menu replacements to get it looking and working like Windows 7 or any other previous version of Windows.
The fastest CPU that the support page says it supports is a 3.06ghz i7. Are these lists definite, or could they be outdated?
For instance, would this CPU work (it's a 1155 socket):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116502
Also, I notice that particular processor has a built-in graphics card. I don't need that, is there a cheaper version of the same processor that doesn't include built-in graphics?
You need to look at the socket, that motherboard is 1156 the processors you're looking at are 1155.
For a 1155 processor you need a new motherboard.
Oh sorry I was confused.
It seems that every 1156 processor has been discontinued, I'm only seeing them for sale on eBay. That can't be right, can it? I just bought this motherboard about a year and a half ago...
I'd stick with Windows 7. I've had annoying issues with Windows 8 so far...most notably XSplit which barely works on Windows 8 (runs incredibly slow), and d3doverrider that doesn't work without some annoying fiddling. Steam has also been very crash and freeze prone for me since installing Windows 8. Activating a new key takes about 30 seconds to a minute, for example.
Intel changes the socket every two years. It's changing again in a couple months. The CPUs that work on your board are long discontinued.
Anton668
Member
my bad, didnt catch the 6
1156 was discontinued back in January 2011 with the launch of 1155, as has been said Intel typically change socket every two generations of CPU.
It's all good, I hope I didn't make you feel bad, just wanted to make sure it was noticed before he went ahead and bought it
Ok, thanks. I found a few 1156 processors on Amazon.
How much of a performance difference is there between a 2.8ghz i7 and a 3.2 ghz i5? (I'm currently running a 2.6ghz i5)
Man the 1556 i7 processors are expensive compared to much faster 1555s. $354 for a 2.8ghz 1156 vs $329 for a 3.5ghz 1155.
Ah great.
Also, thanks for bolding that previous post telling me they weren't compatible. I was literally about to hit the buy button on that processor.
Anyone?
It is much better to fresh install Windows on your new SSD. My 830 came with Norton Ghost, which is for transfering your Windows from your HDD to your SSD, but I don't know, how well it works.
SSDs are really picky when it comes to transfers. I've heard some good things about Norton Ghost though.Anyone?
Just reformat. It's always the right choice.
You were very, very lucky then!
What's different about going SDD -> SSD as opposed to HDD -> SSD?
I've never had an issue going from a hard drive to an SSD. I'd assume going from SSD to another SSD would be just as easy. I don't recall what software I have installed at home to do it, I believe it might have been Acronis Disk Image. Why bother re-installing an entire system that can't be more than several months old?
Because everything going smoothly is always the rare case.
I know that with HDD->SSD, the way that software clones the installation, if there is data in the middle of the drive as well as the outer layers, it needs the space from the outer layers to where the other data is, which of course fails unless you're installing from a 500GB drive to a 512GB SSD.
SSD->SSD is not the case. But reformatting is so simple, I'd rather avoid complications and just take the 10 minutes to do it.
I know that with HDD->SSD, the way that software clones the installation, if there is data in the middle of the drive as well as the outer layers, it needs the space from the outer layers to where the other data is, which of course fails unless you're installing from a 500GB drive to a 512GB SSD.
SSD->SSD is not the case. But reformatting is so simple, I'd rather avoid complications and just take the 10 minutes to do it.
Still on my first install for 1,5 years and switched drives in the mean time! #YOLO.
I used Norton Ghost for the transfer btw(included with the 830).The disk imaging software shouldn't be cloning the empty data on the drive. It should just be moving the non-empty space so you should be fine as long as your SSD isn't smaller than the data you've used on the old drive. You can customize how it treats the empty space so you can force it to do an exact image if you want but there's no point. Especially if you're making an image for backup purposes, it's just a waste of space. Unless he happens to have made an image of a clean install it's going to take a lot longer than 10 minutes to get his system back to the point of how he had it configured earlier. It's a much faster process simply to plug both SSDs into SATA ports and do a direct drive to drive copy. I'm a big proponent of clean installs when it comes to a new operating system. But doing a clean install to get to the exact same point you're at now is just a large waste of time.
Give Todo Backup a try
Big Baybee
Member
So I built my PC with a W7 disk, then upgraded to W8 digitally. Am I going to repeat this process or is there a way I can just start with W8?
Thank you sir.
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
I am pretty much sold on an air cooling Corsair H100i (unless that new one from CES hits soon). I am looking to see if my money would be better spent on this great air cooler in the Coolermaster V8. I know the new V8 GTS was just shown at CES but I have no clue when that's coming. I want the best solution for around 100-120 at most and these V8's go for 50-60 so the money savings are important especially if they can do the job better than some water based solutions.
Actually I take that back, the one I linked won't work with 2011 CPU's. This Noctua NH-D14 will though. I had a single heatsink Hyper 212 and this is 2 fan, 2 heatsink so I would only assume this would cool things even better than a closed loop water or most other air solutions?
Actually I take that back, the one I linked won't work with 2011 CPU's. This Noctua NH-D14 will though. I had a single heatsink Hyper 212 and this is 2 fan, 2 heatsink so I would only assume this would cool things even better than a closed loop water or most other air solutions?
Thermalright Macho, NZXT Havik 140, Prolimatech stuff, NZXT Kraken, Noctua NH-D14, and some others are all right there in the same ballpark. CM TPC 812 is the current CM champ, but the mounting mechanism causes a lot of inconsistency in seating.
I don't like huge air coolers though. Having a giant heatsink in the middle of your case makes it a PITA to work on. I think if you want to push a fairly sane limit, the Prolimatech Megahalems is hard to beat still, especially since you can match it with whatever 120mm fans you want without having to pay for included fans. Otherwise, Sandy-E is one of the instances where the increased cooling potential of something like an H100 does actually pay off. You'll almost always hit the thermal/voltage limit before hitting the silicon's limit with them.
Crucial M4 or Samsung 840 Pro for me. Kingston HyperX are good too, as well as Corsair Neutron GTX. OCZ Vector is good, but pricey.
I don't like huge air coolers though. Having a giant heatsink in the middle of your case makes it a PITA to work on. I think if you want to push a fairly sane limit, the Prolimatech Megahalems is hard to beat still, especially since you can match it with whatever 120mm fans you want without having to pay for included fans. Otherwise, Sandy-E is one of the instances where the increased cooling potential of something like an H100 does actually pay off. You'll almost always hit the thermal/voltage limit before hitting the silicon's limit with them.
Meh.
Crucial M4 or Samsung 840 Pro for me. Kingston HyperX are good too, as well as Corsair Neutron GTX. OCZ Vector is good, but pricey.
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
Thanks. That really clears things up enough for me to stick to my guns. I do like that new Swiftech H220 but I have no idea if it's going to be out within the next month or so as it looks like it cools better than anything out there for its type.
Well, their previous generation ones are out. AFAIK, the only difference is a more quiet pump and some aesthetic changes.
http://www.frozencpu.com/search.htm...3yBypPT&searchspec=swiftech+h20&go.x=0&go.y=0
http://www.frozencpu.com/search.htm...3yBypPT&searchspec=swiftech+h20&go.x=0&go.y=0
Wonder if these will address the 7950's microstuttering.
RumblingRosco
Member
I remember a while back using a guide for overclocking the 2500k specifically with the Asrock Pro3 P67 board; does anyone have a link to that exact guide handy?
Good news is I learned a ton about how CPUs work and all the associated power delivery, buses and clock generators work by struggling through every menu item in the BIOs. I can take it easy for a generation then get Haswell-E
Big Baybee
Member
Figured. Crucial M4 is my first choice.
Felix Lighter
Member
Thanks. I have one small issue with the 12.11 beta drivers. I hope it's fixed in the 13.1. I did report it months ago.
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