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[Echelon079]

I need advice. I am looking to do a new PC in the living room and I have decided to go with the Fractal Design Mini. What would be the best micro atx mobo to throw in there, or some ideas, if I want to do CFX in the future? Do I need twoPCIE 3.0 slots? Going to go with a 7950.

 

[Hazaro]

vcore at idle is about 1.32

and yeah, im giving up and blaming it on the board being cheap, at least for now.

maybe i'll try a way to cool down those vrms

for now I think im just gonna use the OC (4.5ghz) and just dont run stress tests. I doubt it'll throttle down even during intense games (managed to get cpu usage to 80% on a game and it was fine). At least it's not like the blend tests are giving me freezes or BSOD. Should be stable enough.

I wouldn't run it that high. Something is clearly happening. I had a 67 Pro and my 2500K needed 1.31 for 4.3 stable which I knocked down to 4.2 after a few months. Just luck of the draw. I only suggest 4.2 as a base OC target and you are WAY past that. 4.4 to 4.5 is a giant stabilty bump.

 

[Salsa]

I wouldn't run it that high. Something is clearly happening. I had a 67 Pro and my 2500K needed 1.31 for 4.3 stable which I knocked down to 4.2 after a few months. Just luck of the draw. I only suggest 4.2 as a base OC target and you are WAY past that. 4.4 to 4.5 is a giant stabilty bump.

well, look at it this way: evidently as soon as it gets too hot/high/demanding, it starts winding down, so even if something IS happening and it could become risky to run the CPU like that, the issue im having is precisely that the whole thing throttles back down, including temps.

I'll take it into consideration if I see ANYTHING weird or unstable. not like there's much of a difference from 4.2 to 4.5 (getting the issue in both, though, so there's that)

 

[Trojita]

What are you guys actually meaning when you say the i7 is good for multimedia?

How does it benefit multimedia use? It loads HD Streams a little bit faster? It can encode different projects at the same time?

 

[scogoth]

What are you guys actually meaning when you say the i7 is good for multimedia?

How does it benefit multimedia use? It loads HD Streams a little bit faster? It can encode different projects at the same time?

Multimedia = multimedia content creation.

It has hyperthreading which gives a little boost for highly threaded applications like video encoding, rendering, 3d modeling, photoshop plugins etc.

It has zero benefit for multimedia consumption like watching videos

 

[longdi]

looking at your photos,
i will try to turn of auto in cpu voltage offset. try a - or + 0.005v
turn load line calibration to normal or medium.
turn on intel enhanced speedstep. no reason to off it for real use.
try lowering your OC if these new settings cause instability. 4.3ghz is good.
never auto for both of these settings with asus, it will over shoot the load voltage and cause thermal throttling if your case is not well ventilated.

 

[mkenyon]

I need advice. I am looking to do a new PC in the living room and I have decided to go with the Fractal Design Mini. What would be the best micro atx mobo to throw in there, or some ideas, if I want to do CFX in the future? Do I need twoPCIE 3.0 slots? Going to go with a 7950.

Define or Arc mini?

Maximus Gene V is the best mATX motherboard out there, but you can get away with less.

I don't think that a 7950 fits in a define mini without pulling out the HDD tray. If you went crossfire, you would have to pull out both.

 

[Trojita]

Multimedia = multimedia content creation.

It has hyperthreading which gives a little boost for highly threaded applications like video encoding, rendering, 3d modeling, photoshop plugins etc.

It has zero benefit for multimedia consumption like watching videos

Thank you!

 

[Canis lupus]

Any recommendations on a 27" monitor? Are the Dell and Samsung that were posted earlier my only options? I went into an Apple store earlier today and played around with those 27" macs. Not that I want to buy a Mac but to see how big a 27" screen is. Way bigger than I thought.

 

[LCGeek]

Thanks for the help with the new pc guys. Couldn't get the 3570k like I wanted to due ambient temp concerns and budget problems. For a non k processor to do about 4.2 far more than core 2 duo I had which was far less powerful clock for clock.

 

[Trojita]

I decided to get the R4 Fractal like recommended.

Now I don't know what to do. I was looking at the Sabretooth at first and then was looking at the Asus P8Z77-V LK and now I'm looking at the more expensive Gigabyte (The G1 Sniper 3) and Asus (Maximus V Formula) motherboards with the better audio that was mentioned before. Does the R4 even have room for an EATX?

Do people agree that the Asus Xonar STX is good to buy or not?

 

[Echelon079]

Define or Arc mini?

Maximus Gene V is the best mATX motherboard out there, but you can get away with less.

I don't think that a 7950 fits in a define mini without pulling out the HDD tray. If you went crossfire, you would have to pull out both.

I was referring to the define. I'll have to take another look at the measurements. So let me rephrase my question. What's the best micro atx for the price? I don't need all the bells and whistles but i would like to be able to crossfire down the road, hence the question if two p c i e 3 would be needed.

 

[Trojita]

What are you building for? Multimedia? Some thoughts:

If you want a 670, get the Gigabyte Windforce, ASUS DCII or Twin Frozr. You only need a ~500W PSU for that.

The i7 over i5 only offers benefits in multimedia.

Sabertooth is a lot of motherboard, unless you really like it for the aesthetics.

Is there a reason why you want a huge case?

Get low profile RAM like the OP suggests.

I'm looking at the graphics cards right now. The Gigabyte Windforce has 2x and 3x variants (Fan amounts). Which should I go for? Also if I should go for the 3x should I also upgrade to 4GB of Video Ram? Or is 2GB enough?

Also is the 680 worth the extra to get it over the 670?

 

[Ledsen]

My 2500k is OC:d to 4.5 GHz and in a quick IBT run, the auto voltage doesn't seem to take it past 1.308V. That's fine, right?

 

[t-ramp]

My 2500k is OC:d to 4.5 GHz and in a quick IBT run, the auto voltage doesn't seem to take it past 1.308V. That's fine, right?

I think I had mine at 4.5Ghz at 1.3v but had some sporadic issues. It could be it runs mostly okay at 1.308v but not entirely stable under sustained heavy load.

 

[Trojita]

This is what I have configured now:

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($169.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital VelociRaptor 600GB 3.5" 10000RPM Internal Hard Drive ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M4 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($199.00 @ B&H)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card ($457.86 @ Newegg)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DS 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($39.68 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower Grand 650W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1423.46 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)

Soooo. How does it look. I could remove the Raptor but the prices look really good now and I figure it would be good for the games that can't fit on the SSD?

Should I upgrade the Asus Xonar DS to the STX?

I also plan on getting Audio Engine 5+ Speakers or the Swan MKIII Speakers, or any other speakers that are recommended. I currently own Logitech Z5500 Speakers and for headphones I have Senheisser 598HD's and ATH-AD700's

 

[kharma45]

I'm looking at the graphics cards right now. The Gigabyte Windforce has 2x and 3x variants (Fan amounts). Which should I go for? Also if I should go for the 3x should I also upgrade to 4GB of Video Ram? Or is 2GB enough?

Also is the 680 worth the extra to get it over the 670?

I personally wouldn't bother with the 680.

 

[Hazaro]

GB 670. Samsung 830 / 840 Ssd.

This is what I have configured now:

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($169.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital VelociRaptor 600GB 3.5" 10000RPM Internal Hard Drive ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M4 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($199.00 @ B&H)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card ($457.86 @ Newegg)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DS 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($39.68 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower Grand 650W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1423.46 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)

Soooo. How does it look. I could remove the Raptor but the prices look really good now and I figure it would be good for the games that can't fit on the SSD?

Should I upgrade the Asus Xonar DS to the STX?

I also plan on getting Audio Engine 5+ Speakers or the Swan MKIII Speakers, or any other speakers that are recommended. I currently own Logitech Z5500 Speakers and for headphones I have Senheisser 598HD's and ATH-AD700's

 

[drkOne]

Should I bother upgrading my 5850 to a 660ti if I keep my i5 750?
Wondering if I can skip a Mobo/CPU upgrade for now.

 

[kharma45]

Should I bother upgrading my 5850 to a 660ti if I keep my i5 750?
Wondering if I can skip a Mobo/CPU upgrade for now.

Overclock your i5 and it'll do for another while

 

[Ledsen]

I think I had mine at 4.5Ghz at 1.3v but had some sporadic issues. It could be it runs mostly okay at 1.308v but not entirely stable under sustained heavy load.

Well i've had it at 4.5 for almost a year without issue.

 

[mkenyon]

This is what I have configured now:

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($169.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital VelociRaptor 600GB 3.5" 10000RPM Internal Hard Drive ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M4 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($199.00 @ B&H)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card ($457.86 @ Newegg)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DS 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($39.68 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower Grand 650W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1423.46 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)

Soooo. How does it look. I could remove the Raptor but the prices look really good now and I figure it would be good for the games that can't fit on the SSD?

Should I upgrade the Asus Xonar DS to the STX?

I also plan on getting Audio Engine 5+ Speakers or the Swan MKIII Speakers, or any other speakers that are recommended. I currently own Logitech Z5500 Speakers and for headphones I have Senheisser 598HD's and ATH-AD700's

To get the most out of those headphones, yeah, I'd look at getting the STX or an external DAC.

Agree with what Haz said too. Gigabyte 670 (the one with three fans), and Samsung 830/840 if you can find one for the same/less.

Also swap out the PSU for something in the OP. The Seasonic M12II 520 Modular is on sale for super cheap right now. Same with the X650.

Keep in mind that Raptor HDD is really loud. Don't know if that bugs you or not.

Any recommendations on a 27" monitor? Are the Dell and Samsung that were posted earlier my only options? I went into an Apple store earlier today and played around with those 27" macs. Not that I want to buy a Mac but to see how big a 27" screen is. Way bigger than I thought.

If you're set on a 27", get the Crossover 27Q from AccessoriesWhole on ebay.

If you can be convinced otherwise, get a Samsung S23A700/750/950D. 120hz is so amazing.

 

[chixdiggit]

Need a case suggestion. Doing a build for somebody and they are hoping for a case that is black with red light and no window. any suggestions? Hoping to keep the price under $80 as I have a budget to work with.

 

[Hazaro]

Oh yeah, drop the Raptor it's loud as hell and games don't benefits thaaaaat much.
Forgot that when I was typing the response.

Kept the PSU in since it's $110 + 20% off for a gold unit and probably fine.

Disagree with the need for an STX/DAC. Start with onboard for a day. Try the Xonar and see if you hear a difference. Work your way up from there if you feel it's not adequate (It should be to almost everyone IMO).

 

[Hazaro]

Need a case suggestion. Doing a build for somebody and they are hoping for a case that is black with red light and no window. any suggestions? Hoping to keep the price under $80 as I have a budget to work with.

HAF 912 / 922
Storm Scout + $5 black spray paint

 

[mkenyon]

Disagree with the need for an STX/DAC. Start with onboard for a day. Try the Xonar and see if you hear a difference. Work your way up from there if you feel it's not adequate (It should be to almost everyone IMO).

I figured with the speakers/cans listed, he probably listens to pretty high bitrate music. It sure as hell makes a difference in that situation. Even my really nice amped G1.Assassin 2 on board sound is noticeably worse than a NuForce uDAC-2 with my PC-350s when playing FLAC music.

Need a case suggestion. Doing a build for somebody and they are hoping for a case that is black with red light and no window. any suggestions? Hoping to keep the price under $80 as I have a budget to work with.

Get a black case and put some BitFenix Alchemy Red LED strips in it.

*edit*

Arc Midi is $70 right now on Newegg.

 

[Hazaro]

I figured with the speakers/cans listed, he probably listens to pretty high bitrate music. It sure as hell makes a difference in that situation. Even my really nice amped G1.Assassin 2 on board sound is noticeably worse than a NuForce uDAC-2 with my PC-350s when playing FLAC music.

Get a black case and put some BitFenix Alchemy Red LED strips in it.

*edit*

Arc Midi is $70 right now on Newegg.

Well I saw ATH 700s and Z5500s. I guess those speakers are expensive.
I'd still try the cheaper card out first because I'm cheap.

Arc Midi for $70 is a nice deal. Slap on Red LED fans in there or the strip above if you like.

 

[Canis lupus]

If you're set on a 27", get the Crossover 27Q from AccessoriesWhole on ebay.

If you can be convinced otherwise, get a Samsung S23A700/750/950D. 120hz is so amazing.

Thanks for the recommendation! Ive never heard of this brand before, and I see the other Ebay sellers have it for +-€100 less. Should I cheapen out and go with them?

 

[big_z]

those with a hr-02 macho and 3770k what temps do you get at idle?

regarding 3770k temps. is it normal for the idle core temps to flucuate constantly(like every second) within a 5 degree range and see quick spikes in temp when opening programs like itunes?


also does anyone use the corsair af140 fans?? how much air noise do they create? (i like near silent)
im looking for an extra fan or two for my R4 but im not sure if i should put a thermalright ty-140 on the back and a corsair on the top or use two corsairs. suggestions?

 

[Guri]

Is there any chance that I can catch a Black Friday deal for the Samsung 840 Pro?

 

[Psychotext]

Would like some assistance if possible from the experts here!

I'm looking to try and get a remote control of some sort for my (Windows 7) laptop. Basically all I really want to be able to do is change the volume and pause / play / rewind / fast forward films. Anyone know something that might fit the bill?

I'm wondering if one of those presentation mice might do the job as long as it's got enough buttons. I'll be using it from a bike (turbo trainer) so I'm not going to have any surface to move it on, meaning that I guess it'll have to have a trackball if I go that way.

 

[mkenyon]

Thanks for the recommendation! Ive never heard of this brand before, and I see the other Ebay sellers have it for +-€100 less. Should I cheapen out and go with them?

Check out the shipping costs, which others hide.

The reason to buy from AccessoriesWhole is that they have really good customer service support. You run the risk of getting these panels without the correct power cords, dead pixels, weird backlighting, that sort of thing. The risk is already reduced with these guys, but if something is wrong with your panel, then you will have someone that is communicative who will help you fix it.

These are the same panels that they put into the 27" Apple Cinema Displays.

Make sure your video card has a DUAL LINK DVI out, as you will need one to display it.

Is there any chance that I can catch a Black Friday deal for the Samsung 840 Pro?

Maybe, maybe not. Black Friday is totally hit or miss with computer parts. Generally things go on sale for the same price that they go on sale monthly. I don't imagine 840s being one of those things.

those with a hr-02 macho and 3770k what temps do you get at idle?

regarding 3770k temps. is it normal for the idle core temps to flucuate constantly(like every second) within a 5 degree range and see quick spikes in temp when opening programs like itunes?


also does anyone use the corsair af140 fans?? how much air noise do they create? (i like near silent)
im looking for an extra fan or two for my R4 but im not sure if i should put a thermalright ty-140 on the back and a corsair on the top or use two corsairs. suggestions?

Lots of variables in your questions here, and it all depends on 1) Chip lottery, 2) voltage, 3) frequency, 4) mount quality, 5) TIM. Also, idle temps don't mean very much at all.

Yes, it is normal for those temps to fluctuate.

With a heatsink fan, the most important thing for it is to have a high static pressure rating. The corsair AF140 has a very low pressure rating because it's meant for case airflow. It will perform worse than the fan you have on there.

If you want more airflow, I'd suggest getting one or two Corsair AF 120 Quiet Editions. For a case with a really hot video card that is not reference design, you wouldn't need any more than two intake and two exhaust (with slightly higher CFM on the intake fans as the goal) to have really nice temps.

The Corsair AF 120 Quiet Edition has slightly higher CFM than the Fractal 140mm fans.

Would like some assistance if possible from the experts here!

I'm looking to try and get a remote control of some sort for my (Windows 7) laptop. Basically all I really want to be able to do is change the volume and pause / play / rewind / fast forward films. Anyone know something that might fit the bill?

I'm wondering if one of those presentation mice might do the job as long as it's got enough buttons. I'll be using it from a bike (turbo trainer) so I'm not going to have any surface to move it on, meaning that I guess it'll have to have a trackball if I go that way.

I think you are on to something with the presentation mouse. I think the guys in the Laptop (first link in OP) thread or the Alienware X51 thread might have a better idea than us desk jockeys.

 

[ScepticMatt]

I got a WD Caviar Red (3 TB), but I can only access around 800 GB of it
I tried using different tools on Windows/Linux without success.

EDIT: found problem: USB Dock only supports up to 2 TB. (thanks kennah)

 

[beje]

I got a WD Caviar Red (3 TB), but I can only access around 800 GB of it
I tried using different tools on Windows/Linux without success.

Any idea how to fix it? (Jumper settings/ Firmware fix maybe?)

Are you sure there's only one partition in there, and that it's the largest size it can be?

 

[kennah]

Is it plugged in through a USB controller?

 

[Psychotext]

I think you are on to something with the presentation mouse. I think the guys in the Laptop (first link in OP) thread or the Alienware X51 thread might have a better idea than us desk jockeys.

Thanks, I didn't realise there was one.

 

[Canis lupus]

Check out the shipping costs, which others hide.

The reason to buy from AccessoriesWhole is that they have really good customer service support. You run the risk of getting these panels without the correct power cords, dead pixels, weird backlighting, that sort of thing. The risk is already reduced with these guys, but if something is wrong with your panel, then you will have someone that is communicative who will help you fix it.

These are the same panels that they put into the 27" Apple Cinema Displays.

Make sure your video card has a DUAL LINK DVI out, as you will need one to display it.

I'll buy from them. I did my research and it looks like the Crossovers have the best built quality. My 6870 does have a dual link DVI so I'm okay. I do however need a very long(5m) DVI cable.

 

[ScepticMatt]

I use a Sharkoon QuickPort USB 2.0 Hot-Swap bay
I see 800 GB unallocated space in total (no partitions)

The Caviar Green 2 TB works without problems in this setup.

 

[kennah]

Your USB controller doesn't support 3tb drives.

 

[ScepticMatt]

thanks kennah, that's the problem.

Now, what new dock would you get? (Thinking about the QuickPort Duo v.2 usb 3.0)

 

[mkenyon]

I'll buy from them. I did my research and it looks like the Crossovers have the best built quality. My 6870 does have a dual link DVI so I'm okay. I do however need a very long(5m) DVI cable.

Make sure it is a dual link cable.

I got a WD Caviar Red (3 TB), but I can only access around 800 GB of it
I tried using different tools on Windows/Linux without success.

Any idea how to fix it? (Jumper settings/ Firmware fix maybe?)

These drives aren't intended to be used as stand alone drives, so you need to disable the firmware to allow it to work as one. Google 'WD red single drive fix' or something similar.

 

[ledman]

Anyone knows if it's posible to change the PCI-E 3.0 to 2.0 in a gigabyte board.
My MOBO is a H61-DS2 (rev 1.0) , I looked in the bios and found nothing.

 

[mkenyon]

Anyone knows if it's posible to change the PCI-E 3.0 to 2.0 in a gigabyte board.
My MOBO is a H61-DS2 (rev 1.0) , I looked in the bios and found nothing.

Why would you want to?

 

[ledman]

Why would you want to?

My video card (GTX 670 FTW) driver is constantly crashing, EVGA support told me that a great numbers of GTX 670 and 680 are having problems on H61 micro ATX boards with PCI-E 3.0, and most users are solving this problem changing the PCI-E 3.0 to 2.0.
My problem is that they all use Asus MOBOs, they got the option to switch back to 3.0 in the bios, but I didn't find this option in my Gigabyte oard bios.

 

[mkenyon]

Are you sure you are running at PCI-E 3.0? Sandy or Ivy?

*edit*

Yeah, that mobo doesn't support 3.0.

 

[ledman]

Are you sure you are running at PCI-E 3.0? Sandy or Ivy?

Pretty sure, both Nvidia Control Panel and GPU-Z shows me that.
Ivy, a I5 3570K

From gigabyte site : http://br.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3970#sp

There is PCI-E 3.0 support.

 

[mkenyon]

It's not real PCI-E 3.0 support. Might have to do with their wacky system. I'd contact Gigabyte.

Do some Googling about MSI calling them out.

 

[Trojita]

This is what I have configured now:

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($169.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital VelociRaptor 600GB 3.5" 10000RPM Internal Hard Drive ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M4 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($199.00 @ B&H)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card ($457.86 @ Newegg)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DS 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($39.68 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower Grand 650W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1423.46 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)

Soooo. How does it look. I could remove the Raptor but the prices look really good now and I figure it would be good for the games that can't fit on the SSD?

Should I upgrade the Asus Xonar DS to the STX?

I also plan on getting Audio Engine 5+ Speakers or the Swan MKIII Speakers, or any other speakers that are recommended. I currently own Logitech Z5500 Speakers and for headphones I have Senheisser 598HD's and ATH-AD700's

Okay guys, I'm going to add a GTX 670 instead as recommended.

I'm thinking about changing up the motherboard from the Asus to this Gigabyte one:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128558

GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UP4 TH LGA 1155 Intel Z77

Mainly because I kind of wanted to get a Thunderbolt Display (Hopefully they refresh them soon) for my Macbook Pro Retina and I want the ability to also use it with my PC.

I still need to decide on a sound card. I will mainly be using the Speakers I think and not the headphones.

 

[Sullichin]

God damnit. having some sort of issue with my 128GB M4 SSD.

It randomly stopped being recognized (my BIOS says nothing is plugged into that SATA port). Then I switched SATA ports with my HDD, and they were both recognized. But at one point, the SSD stopped being recognized in the second SATA port too.

This has only been happening since I ran windows update and got (I think) W7SP1. Since then, my "primary disk speed" in the windows experience index has said 5.9, indicating that it's really reading my HDD and not my SSD...even though Windows is (only) installed on the SSD. Besides that, the SSD is working fine and my computer is snappy as ever. Until it stopped being recognized of course. I'm hoping maybe my SATA cable that I'm using for that one is just messed up somehow, because removing the SSD would be a huge pain in the ass -- it's mounted behind my motherboard and I'd have to take out the mobo to replace it.

Any ideas?

Also, I'm on the east coast and we've had a lot of storms, and a couple of times my PC shut itself off because it detected a power surge. Hope it's not related

 

[Astra]

A friend of mine finished building his PC, and is now looking at monitors. He plays Starcraft II a lot, and League of Legends, and we're wondering if he would benefit from a 120hz monitor with those games? It's been suggested he go that route, and I thought to get some opinions from PC-GAF. Currently looking at these two options BenQ XL2420T and ASUS VG278HE.