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[Deleted member 22576]

So I"m using an aluminum apple keyboard... i spilled beer on it last night and now im getting the usb device not recognized "bubbump" noise every 5 seconds. The keyboard works fine, but that notification just going off rapid fire.

 

[mkenyon]

Apple devices prefer wine. They'll accept beer as long as it's a Belgian style that you've never heard of.

 

[Canis lupus]

Absolutely, yes. I don't mean to draw lines in the sand and sound like a snob, but if you're not serious about competitive gaming, it's not something that a lot of people notice or care about. If you are serious and like precision, then it's going to be frustrating.

I'd like to know this as well. Since I'm setting up an HTPC in an entertainment room I pretty much have no choice but to sit 10+ feet away from the computer when using it. They don't make keyboards with 15' cords do they?

Are there USB extension cables? I'd rather connect them wired like that if its possible.

 

[ithorien]

Das keyboard? More like das gorgeous.

 

[Rubbish King]

Friend asked if i could post this and ask opinions on his build, he's a lurker, doesn't have an account


CPU Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler Corsair Hydro Series H60 74.4 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory Corsair XMS3 6GB (3 x 2GB) DDR3-1333 Memory
Storage Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card Sapphire Radeon HD 6950 2GB Video Card
Case Corsair Obsidian Series 800D ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply Corsair Professional Gold 750W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V

What you think?

 

[mkenyon]

PSU and case are really odd fits for the build.

If he likes the aluminum look, have him check out the Lian Li PC-7HX. If he wants it because he really likes Corsair products, look at the 550D (would never otherwise recommend this case), or the 500R. I'd also suggest checking out the Fractal Define R4 or Arc Midi. All of the mentioned cases will perform a lot better than the 800D. If he wants a really really big aluminum chassis with sights set on watercooling (purpose of the 800D), then check out the Lian Li PC-A75X.

He'll want a dual channel kit, get one of the ones from the OP. 8GB 1.5V RAM is good.

The PSU could go down to 500W. With a 7850/7870, even a 450W would suffice. If he's after the AX series for the single braided cables (why I buy them myself), then go with the AX650.

*edit*

Also, the H60 fans run really loud. Get a single Corsair SP 120 Quiet Edition to replace it.

 

[sixghost]

I'm thinking about building my first desktop over winter break, so I have a few questions I don't think were in the OP.

I noticed that a monitor wasn't included in the OP budget guide. About how much would a good monitor cost?

Also, is black friday a good time to buy parts?

sorry, one more. On newegg, when it says "Recommended Resolution", does that the same as native resolution?

 

[Boaty McBoatface]

Friend asked if i could post this and ask opinions on his build, he's a lurker, doesn't have an account


CPU Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler Corsair Hydro Series H60 74.4 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory Corsair XMS3 6GB (3 x 2GB) DDR3-1333 Memory
Storage Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card Sapphire Radeon HD 6950 2GB Video Card
Case Corsair Obsidian Series 800D ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply Corsair Professional Gold 750W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V

What you think?

I have that board, and can attest to it's rock bloody solid-ness. Very good value imo.

Also I agree with mkenyon; the PSU is a bit much.

I have to ask since I'm not aware on this, but is the 6950 better/cheaper than going for a current gen 7*** card?

 

[mkenyon]

I was assuming it was a used one, in which case, yes.

*edit*

Ty4on's answer is way better.

 

[Ty4on]

I have that board, and can attest to it's rock bloody solid-ness. Very good value imo.

Also I agree with mkenyon; the PSU is a bit much.

I have to ask since I'm not aware on this, but is the 6950 better/cheaper than going for a current gen 7*** card?

Pretty sure that varies a lot. Up here (Norway) the 6950s go for 7870/7950 cash which they are not worth. The 6950 is as good or worse than the 7850 in benches while the 6970 trade blows. I mentioned the 6970 because some 6950s can be unlocked to a 6970.

If they're much cheaper they can be a decent choice, but for the same price then you'll get a hotter, hungrier and noiser card which is likely to get worse as drivers and games are optimized for the newer cards.

6950 vs 7850.

 

[blindrocket]

If he's after the AX series for the single braided cables (why I buy them myself), then go with the AX650.

Newegg says that particular model is discontinued. Looking for a PSU myself and I liked your recommendations. 650 seems like more wattage than necessary, but perhaps it's a bit future-proof.

 

[Hazaro]

Party time. Next 5 hours going to be painful at work.

Oooh an Xsoft. Let me know if it's some amazing revalation.

Das keyboard? More like das gorgeous.

Das fingerprint magnet

Thanks, I will look into a 7850 then. Is the power consumption significantly higher compared to the 4850?

Should be ok for you. Adding watts via CPU OC is something to keep in check though.

I want to learn/try to build a PC in the near future, but for now it's all too overwhelming.
OP's guide seems wonderful for me, and I may go for a $600-800 range later.
I will keep reading the thread and wait until prices go down.

Now is great to buy. Haswell will release when Intel stop milking Ivy in 4-6 months and will be another small PERFORMANCE jump. But a big power saving one.

 

[mkenyon]

ithorien-

Didn't notice the Artisan pad in there! Love my artisan so freaking much. Best pad ever. Hope you like it.

Newegg says that particular model is discontinued. Looking for a PSU myself and I liked your recommendations. 650 seems like more wattage than necessary, but perhaps it's a bit future-proof.

Its at NCIX US. Seasonic revamped their X series a bit (what the Corsair AX is) so they are probably switching to those. AX660/760.

 

[Recon]

Okay, I think I narrowed down my problem. As stated earlier, I have had weird GPU temp spikes whenever Im doing more than watching video. Anytime I enter a game(even just the menu) it spikes to around 103C.

I think the thermal paste I used when installing my aftermarket cooler wasnt applied right. Does this sound right based on my problems?

 

[Hazaro]

Okay, I think I narrowed down my problem. As stated earlier, I have had weird GPU temp spikes whenever Im doing more than watching video. Anytime I enter a game(even just the menu) it spikes to around 103C.

I think the thermal paste I used when installing my aftermarket cooler wasnt applied right. Does this sound right based on my problems?

Yes. Your heatsink / paste is not installed correctly.

 

[AndyD]

Anyone have any experience with the Antec 302 case? I am in an older Sonata case, and I don't think I can fit a 7950 in there (limit is about 10.5 inches). So I think I may need to get a roomier case.

I am looking for something quieter but with good airflow like the Sonata. And the 302 seems to be the right size without breaking the bank. Its also in the living room, so nothing gaudy.

 

[x3r0123]

has anyone tried the pb238q?

 

[Recon]

Yes. Your heatsink / paste is not installed correctly.

Thanks, I have some more thermal paste coming in on wed.

 

[Salsa]

welp, new issue

PSU seems to be emiting some weird random short electrical buzzes after using the PC for like half a day

it's not coil whine or anything like that, and it happens randomly and could not happen at all for a while. I did have one instance where it started happening uncontrollably and I had to turn the PC off.

When I did that it kept doing it as long as the power chord was plugged in, even when the PC was turned off by the switch besides the plug.

It's like it got supercharged or something. I think there's something wrong about the voltage, but it's not the outlets in my room or anything cause I checked all that, unscrewing everything and checking that everything was alright.

Here's the weird part: I could swear at one point the SAME random short buzz was coming off the monitor.

During the time this happened the whole case was also prone to electrocute me a bit, you could feel the whole thing being.. idk, charged.

IDK what the fuck is happening. Only voltage-related thing I did recently was when I overclocked my CPU. the Vcore is not manually set cause my mobo wont let me, but according to CPU-Z it never surpases 1.38 or near that.

I ran argus monitr for a couple minutes and the spikes in CPU voltage seemed to be a bit more frequent?

any ideas?

I really dont wanna have to send this thing for RMA (not sure if its still under warranty), nor I have the money to exchange it after the new card. Im fuuuuuuuucked

edit: It's an Antec True Power 750 btw

 

[mkenyon]

Anyone have any experience with the Antec 302 case? I am in an older Sonata case, and I don't think I can fit a 7950 in there (limit is about 10.5 inches). So I think I may need to get a roomier case.

I am looking for something quieter but with good airflow like the Sonata. And the 302 seems to be the right size without breaking the bank. Its also in the living room, so nothing gaudy.

Check out the BitFenix Merc Alpha, Outlaw, Diablotek Evo, and NZXT Source 210 Elite. Those pretty much outshine everything in the sub-$70 category, and even cases in the $100-200 range.

@Salsa
I'd try a different power cord before anything. Make sure it's rated high for the wattage you are pulling.

 

[yankeeforever2]

I was able to get one of these for 800 before it sold out
http://www.microsoftstore.com/store...&ClickID=cfqapsqxpf4inf7wzzpxp4xfl4kpwslfqzzk

So what is going to be my limits of gaming with this guy?

 

[scogoth]

I was able to get one of these for 800 before it sold out
http://www.microsoftstore.com/store...&ClickID=cfqapsqxpf4inf7wzzpxp4xfl4kpwslfqzzk

So what is going to be my limits of gaming with this guy?

Med/high settings for current stuff.

 

[Salsa]

oh wow, discovered something quite.. important while running a long (longer than what I tested before) blend test on prime 95 to check the voltage thing..

this all started happening after having the CPU at 100% usage for a while

temp:

speed:

power:

(the steady drop is after stopping it)



looks like the OC isnt sticking. Or rather than it passed 70° and for some reason automatically started winding down (im gusesing there's some sort of anti-making-your-cpu-blow-up thing at work) and trying to get up again but to no avail. :/

im currently at x43 on the cores, but those numbers make me think that I should be dial it down quite a bit if I dont wanna pass 70°, right? what should I do? it's like at some point it decided to get super hot out of nowhere, since according to the graph it got cooler before going up again and getting way hotter

 

[mkenyon]

I'd post up the whole thing on xtremesystems.org or overclock.net. I've never heard of Ivy dialing itself down at that low of a temp.

 

[Salsa]

keep in mind that im OCing the turbo boost, and it winds down back to as if it wasnt using it

is it bad that it winds down at that temp tho? as in, if there was a way around it should I leave it reach those temps without worrying?

 

[Smokey]

New Corsair H100i and H80i closed water cooling units announced

Looks to have thicker tubing than the H100, and a supposed redesign. Depending on reviews I may "upgrade" from my current H100 to this. My H100 has served me very well, have no complaints about the unit.

Differences from rep over at overclock.net

Okay, here's a list of differences between the older versions and the new "i" variants.

1. Corsair Link compatibility in the box, so you can just plug in the included USB cable into a mbd header and download the software. This allows you to create your own fan and noise profiles, and to adjust the RGB LED logo on the top of the unit. (you can even have it changed color based on temp)
2. Moved from 4-pin "molex" power to a SATA power connector.
3. Upgraded cold plate
4. Upgraded impeller/bearing/motor design for lower noise pump unit.
5. Upgraded split-flow manifold design.
6. Upgraded to wider tubing with more flexibility, but retaining the same low evaporation rates.
7. Upgraded the fans to SP120L design. Same impeller as the SP120 retail, with a different housing. A high-torque motor keeps the fan spinning near its ideal RPM even with backpressure. The noise level of the units is significantly better than last year, as a result.
8. New Industrial Design.
9. Changed mounting mechanism for AMD/Intel bracket to be magnetic, so you can swap out the tops without any screws.
10. Price of H80i dropped from $109 to $99.

For anybody wondering about the "i" designator, we'll be using it on parts that offer full Corsair Link compatibility out of the box without having to add any additional purchase.

May not be new to some, but thought I'd post those differences.

 

[Salsa]

I do have EPU Power Saving Mode turned ON under AI tweaker. Something to do with that maybe?

 

[mkenyon]

New Corsair H100i and H80i closed water cooling units announced

Looks to have thicker tubing than the H100, and a supposed redesign. Depending on reviews I may "upgrade" from my current H100 to this. My H100 has served me very well, have no complaints about the unit.

Differences from rep over at overclock.net

If you buy this instead of a proper kit, I'm going to be like 10000 disappoints. Don't you do it Smokey.

 

[Smokey]

If you buy this instead of a proper kit, I'm going to be like 10000 disappoints. Don't you do it Smokey.

i was waiting on you lol

until i get a new case that is more suited for a proper loop, i'm staying with the h100. I guess I still have the FT02 but the 500r is rather comfortable right now!

 

[Salsa]

fuck. EXACT same thing happened with EPU power save OFF

 

[mkenyon]

I'm going to leave this here.

 

[Smokey]

I'm going to leave this here.

i have that pic saved and some others it's awesome looking

 

[Infinite Justice]

I'm going to leave this here.

GODDAMN.

 

[Salsa]

welp after 20-25 minutes of testing this issue hasn't shown up when putting the multipliers at 4.0ghz.

so im guessing it definetly has to do with some sort of temp limit..

dont wanna settle for this shitty OC

 

[Iacobellis]

I'm going to leave this here.

Dare I ask...

Specs?

 

[Ledsen]

keep in mind that im OCing the turbo boost, and it winds down back to as if it wasnt using it

is it bad that it winds down at that temp tho? as in, if there was a way around it should I leave it reach those temps without worrying?

What's the difference between overclocking using Turbo Boost and doing it the "normal" way? I do it normally by upping the multiplier, and my proc still downclocks itself automatically based on what I'm using it for. I assume it's the same if you're doing it through Turbo Boost?

 

[Salsa]

What's the difference between overclocking using Turbo Boost and doing it the "normal" way? I do it normally by upping the multiplier, and my proc still downclocks itself automatically based on what I'm using it for. I assume it's the same if you're doing it through Turbo Boost?

mobo just doesnt let me do base clocks. It's basically the same thing, though I got it set up in a way that it never throttles down, it's always at 4.5ghz (x44 multiplier)



BTW: the Intel Adaptive Thermal monitor was activated, and I could swear it wasnt. Im guessing that option basically means: "we'll throttle this shit down if it gets to dangerous levels (aka above 70°C for their sake)"

so im testing right now with that turned off..


random PSU electrical buzz still there, just happened twice while rebooting. It scares the crap out of me, gonna get a new power chord asap, but somehow I doubt that's the issue..

 

[Ledsen]

mobo just doesnt let me do base clocks. It's basically the same thing, though I got it set up in a way that it never throttles down, it's always at 4.5ghz (x44 multiplier)



BTW: the Intel Adaptive Thermal monitor was activated, and I could swear it wasnt. Im guessing that option basically means: "we'll throttle this shit down if it gets to dangerous levels (aka above 70°C for their sake)"

so im testing right now with that turned off..


random PSU electrical buzz still there, just happened twice while rebooting. It scares the crap out of me, gonna get a new power chord asap, but somehow I doubt that's the issue..

Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor -

The Adaptive Thermal Monitor feature is intended to help protect the processor in the event that an application exceeds the TDP recommendation for a sustained time period. As such during the course of overclocking this can affect the stability of the frequnecy defined. As such it is advised it be disabled when under overclocking and stress testing with high load and high power consumption sythetics or applications. Be advised this will not disable the CPUs internal TCC functionality.

 

[Salsa]

yeah, but:

now the drops are random and dont even relate to being over 70°C

what the hell man running out of ideas

 

[diamount]

I'm going to leave this here.

The system of my dreams.

 

[Prozel]

I solved my USB3 on my Prodigy!

I forgot to unplug the USB2 cable between the mobo and case. Only the USB3 cable should be connected to the mobo, and USB2 still works.

So happy right now!

 

[mkenyon]

Dare I ask...

Specs?

I'd guess 2600K + 3 580s.

yeah, but:

now the drops are random and dont even relate to being over 70°C

what the hell man running out of ideas

I'm tellin' ya, you need to post on a specialist forum. I don't think you'll get many answers here. Xtremesystems is filled with engineers and smarties. They'll know what's up.

I'm assuming it's motherboard related, probably with not being able to supply the correct volts/power. It's MSI, right?

*edit*

New CaseLabs SM5. mATX chassis with watercooling in mind.

 

[Ridli]

So GAF I'm ready to build a new machine after over 6 years without doing a custom job. This isn't my first rodeo but I've been out of the game for so long that I feel noobish enough to want to clarify some stuff. I want to go small form factor due to aesthetics, and I'm currently leaning towards the BitFenix Prodigy or Lian-Li pc-q08 cases mentioned in the thread guides.

Heat and noise are my biggest concerns, and I'm wondering about 2 things in particular.

1. I'm a little apprehensive about liquid cooling. The last time I built a machine, liquid was still a super-niche option people did just to show off. But now I cant seem to find a guide that doesn't mention it. Has it really become idiot proof? Is ongoing maintenance ever a concern?

2. I notice a lot of the SFF GPU recommendations are between the 7800s and the 660. Is there an appreciable difference regarding heat and noise between the AMD and NVidia options at that price point? I was considering the 660 because I never had a physx card and those vids always look nice and shiney. But that's not a dealbreaker, and if one option will run quieter or cooler I might change my mind.

 

[RedSwirl]

Does anyone here actually have experience with USB extension keyboard/mouse setups?

 

[kennah]

Does anyone here actually have experience with USB extension keyboard/mouse setups?

I have done it in the past, but don't twitch game. USB allows a maximum cable length of 16 feet in between hubs. If you get a keyboard that has a USB hub built in you can plug the mouse into that. If you're really intense about it, you could run a cable along the wall and under your couch, so the cable just comes up from underneath your couch. If you need to go longer than 16 ft, any POWERED usb hub will function as a repeater.

The only thing you'd need to really 'worry' about is not enough power being sent through the cable. You'd be able to power a keyboard and mouse over that distance with no problem, but I'd be wary of running something like a Hard Drive at that distance.

What specific questions did you have?

 

[Piercedveil]

I'm going to leave this here.

Oh my.. Beautiful.

 

[mkenyon]

1. I'm a little apprehensive about liquid cooling. The last time I built a machine, liquid was still a super-niche option people did just to show off. But now I cant seem to find a guide that doesn't mention it. Has it really become idiot proof? Is ongoing maintenance ever a concern?

2. I notice a lot of the SFF GPU recommendations are between the 7800s and the 660. Is there an appreciable difference regarding heat and noise between the AMD and NVidia options at that price point? I was considering the 660 because I never had a physx card and those vids always look nice and shiney. But that's not a dealbreaker, and if one option will run quieter or cooler I might change my mind.

1) The corsair closed loop solutions should generally not be regarded as water cooling. I mean, it is technically, but it performs on par or worse than similarly priced air coolers. The reason why they are suggested with SFF builds is because you don't have to worry about fitment issues (just the block/pump on the board) and they are relatively compact. There is no maintenance with them, and if it leaks and hurts things (extremely rare), Corsair will pay for a whole new machine.

2) They are about the same. The 78xx will be a better performer down the road compared to the 660Ti though.

3) If silence is a big part of what you want, I'd really suggest the Prodigy as you can fit a number of low speed 120mm fans to keep it cool and quiet.

 

[Draft]

Monoprice is about to start selling Korean IPS 1440p monitors.

That's basically the most exciting PC gaming performance thing to happen since Crysis. Maybe I'll finally upgrade the trusty old 4xxx with it's roomy 512MB of VRAM.

 

[mkenyon]

Corsair 500R and C70 on sale at the Egg for $80 and you get a free AF120. Damn good deal on two great cases.

 

[IcyRhythms]

Still on my trusty GTX570. Should I upgrade next year when the 8xxx from AMD and 7xx from NVIDIA release? 2600K and 8GB RAM still going strong.