I love my 500R. I recently broke the front usb ports (I'm stupid) but I just emailed Corsair and there sending out a replacement part for free.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
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I love my 500R. I recently broke the front usb ports (I'm stupid) but I just emailed Corsair and there sending out a replacement part for free.
Thanks for the clarification, I do appreciate it.
So if I were to try and drawn an analogy in my head, those Corsair units are kind of an extension of heat-pipe systems? Basically something sealed and not user-serviceable. I do like the compact nature though. I always hated having a gigantic heatsink/fan tower hanging off, or I guess in this case on top of, the mobo.
I think I'm gonna spend the day pricing and looking at my credit card, back at newegg, then back at the card.
Dual PSU?
Can't think of any reason why you shouldn't be able to no matter what your GPU is.
I am liking the Outlaw.
I just ordered a 7950 here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0082D58PE/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Its what you recommended I think, a Sapphire, dual cooler, but non toxic.
Ill see if it fits in my current case, if not, I'll order one of those too.
For the price you won't go far wrong, the ones I'd tend to stick with are MSI and Gigabyte but they're another $70 or so and aren't worth that premium imo. Had two Sapphire cards myself and they've been good.
diztrukted
Member
I'm going to leave this here.
man thats a looker, what am i looking at exactly (specs)
edit: thank you google image search http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55264
Amazon isn't on the list of retailers that will give the Never Settle Game Bundle, in case someone was thinking about getting this and expecting it. Cheapest I've seen a 7950
blindrocket
Member
Ah, thanks. So are these essentially the same PSU?
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=61488&vpn=CP-9020006-NA&manufacture=Corsair&promoid=1226
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151088
Got it working. Thanks!
Edit: I'm assuming if I wanted to use two screens for gaming screens with the same size and resolution would be ideal? I could see tons of complications in my case with one being 20" and the other being 23" and on top of that one monitor is 16:9 and the other is 16:10.
If you game on two monitors, you would have a line right down the middle. You also need a beefy video card setup.
Yep, same thing. Corsair allows purchasing of single braided cables though, which is why I have been going AX as of late. Always Seasonic before though.
blindrocket
Member
Okay, thanks. Do you have a link for the cables?
http://www.corsair.com/us/power-supply-units/psu-accessories.html
This is something that previously took ~45 hours of labor or $600 to have someone do them for you.
This is something that previously took ~45 hours of labor or $600 to have someone do them for you.
blindrocket
Member
I want it with one gold stripe =P
Anyone know about the recent EVGA GTX 670 FTW 2GB driver issues?
Artifacts all over the place and constant driver crashes when I play any game.
My specs:
MOBO: Gigabyte H61M-DS2 rev1.0
PSU: Antec 520W HCG
CPU: I5 3570K
Memory : Kingston KHX1600C9D3B1-4GB
I already changed the drivers, updated the card Bios, changed the voltage, downclock, and the temperatures are not high.
I really close to give up and start the RMA process.
Artifacts all over the place and constant driver crashes when I play any game.
My specs:
MOBO: Gigabyte H61M-DS2 rev1.0
PSU: Antec 520W HCG
CPU: I5 3570K
Memory : Kingston KHX1600C9D3B1-4GB
I already changed the drivers, updated the card Bios, changed the voltage, downclock, and the temperatures are not high.
I really close to give up and start the RMA process.
I have the same model and I have zero issues with the 306.97 drivers.
Salacious Crumb
Junior Member
I have the same card and I'm experiencing nothing like that on the 310.33 beta driver.
I tested 3 different drivers including 310.33, I really doubt the driver itself is the issue.
The thing about the driver is that he stops responding for a few seconds before the Windows recovers it.
The reason why that happens can be something else.
Higher AA or higher resolution gaming
Just if it's viable. I was thinking of just getting a couple 12+' extension cables and putting them at the ends of the (probably) 6' cables for the keyboard and mouse with USB in the back of the tower.
As for a specific keyboard and mouse models, probably standard ones. I've been using a regular DELL SK-8115 for five years now and it's worked just fine. Even thought abut tracking down an oldschool IBM Model M for a minute.
as mkenyon suggested I took my issues to overclock.net
only one guy so far tried to kinda help me out after 1 day, but i'll keep checking and updating that thread
still, figured might as well post what I just posted there over here just in case. Pictures of how I have everything set up for the turbo boost OC on BIOS, maybe someone can find something off, even though I already tried changing and playing around with pretty much everything:
only one guy so far tried to kinda help me out after 1 day, but i'll keep checking and updating that thread
still, figured might as well post what I just posted there over here just in case. Pictures of how I have everything set up for the turbo boost OC on BIOS, maybe someone can find something off, even though I already tried changing and playing around with pretty much everything:
Try xtremesystems.org as well. People there are pretty cool/knowledgeable.
Fans IIRC.
Unless you play comp, you could probably rock a wireless mouse. Lots of people do and swear by it.
do I send you what to post? not sure if I got what you mean
btw.. is there any game out there that is gonna take your CPU load even near prime95 blend levels? I dont mean to give up but im stressed out trying to fix it. Wanna know if it's safe to still run a 4.5ghz OC knowing it wont drop, considering the most ive seen a game use CPU load was always no more than 60%..
I mean it's a fucking annoying issue of course, but im not sure if it'll affect me much by just playing games as opposed to using my PC just for stress tests and whatnot. This people clearly have a goal to see how far their PCs can go, I just wanna have a stable OC that lets me play games at max settings
I mean im running Crysis 2 in the background right now just to test, and CPU load is at about 50%, but I assume it is still taking advantage of the 4.5ghz of speed, right?
btw.. is there any game out there that is gonna take your CPU load even near prime95 blend levels? I dont mean to give up but im stressed out trying to fix it. Wanna know if it's safe to still run a 4.5ghz OC knowing it wont drop, considering the most ive seen a game use CPU load was always no more than 60%..
I mean it's a fucking annoying issue of course, but im not sure if it'll affect me much by just playing games as opposed to using my PC just for stress tests and whatnot. This people clearly have a goal to see how far their PCs can go, I just wanna have a stable OC that lets me play games at max settings
I mean im running Crysis 2 in the background right now just to test, and CPU load is at about 50%, but I assume it is still taking advantage of the 4.5ghz of speed, right?
Celcius
°Temp. member
SalsaShark,
I believe your mobo has a feature where you can take a print screen while in the bios and automatically save to usb instead of having to use a camera (press F12 and the usb drive must be formatted using FAT32). It would be easier and make the screens more readable.
After glancing over your screens, I wanted to ask - have you tried:
1. OCing your cpu manually instead of using offset and disabling turbo mode
2. Setting your memory freq/timings manually instead of using auto?
3. Did you also try setting cpu current capability to 140% and VRM fixed frequency mode to 350?
I've got an asus p8z68v-pro gen3 mobo, but judging by the look of your bios I assume you're using a z68/z77 variant of the asus mobos.
If those don't work, feel free to try my old settings (though my cpu now needs 1.32v for 4.5ghz):
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123538.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123524.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123511.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123456.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123433.jpg
edit: hmm, I'm still having a hard time deciding on a case. I can't order a 500r knowing how much I liked the layout and aluminum body of my old FT02 (and especially after seeing the water-cooled ft02 posted in the thread lol). Then looking at their website, the similarly gorgeous TJ11 also uses the 90 degree layout.
I believe your mobo has a feature where you can take a print screen while in the bios and automatically save to usb instead of having to use a camera (press F12 and the usb drive must be formatted using FAT32). It would be easier and make the screens more readable.
After glancing over your screens, I wanted to ask - have you tried:
1. OCing your cpu manually instead of using offset and disabling turbo mode
2. Setting your memory freq/timings manually instead of using auto?
3. Did you also try setting cpu current capability to 140% and VRM fixed frequency mode to 350?
I've got an asus p8z68v-pro gen3 mobo, but judging by the look of your bios I assume you're using a z68/z77 variant of the asus mobos.
If those don't work, feel free to try my old settings (though my cpu now needs 1.32v for 4.5ghz):
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123538.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123524.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123511.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123456.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123433.jpg
edit: hmm, I'm still having a hard time deciding on a case. I can't order a 500r knowing how much I liked the layout and aluminum body of my old FT02 (and especially after seeing the water-cooled ft02 posted in the thread lol). Then looking at their website, the similarly gorgeous TJ11 also uses the 90 degree layout.
SalsaShark,
I believe your mobo has a feature where you can take a print screen while in the bios and automatically save to usb instead of having to use a camera (press F12 and the usb drive must be formatted using FAT32). It would be easier and make the screens more readable.
After glancing over your screens, I wanted to ask - have you tried:
1. OCing your cpu manually instead of using offset and disabling turbo mode
2. Setting your memory freq/timings manually instead of using auto?
3. Did you also try setting cpu current capability to 140% and VRM fixed frequency mode to 350?
I've got an asus p8z68v-pro gen3 mobo, but judging by the look of your bios I assume you're using a z68/z77 variant of the asus mobos.
If those don't work, feel free to try my old settings (though my cpu (sandy bridge) now needs 1.32v for 4.5ghz):
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123538.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123524.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123511.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123456.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/vocelcius/111213123433.jpg
im using the LE version of the p8p67, wich rules out the first option since I cant manually set Vcore and stuff like that, so I went with OCing the turbo boost
what options from those listed in my screens are the ones I'd have to change to achieve what you describe in your other points? and in that case what would be good values? thanks for the help!
this is the first time I tried pushing hardware in basically.. 6 years
Celcius
°Temp. member
hmm, since you're on the LE and need to use turbo mode, at a quick glance the only other interesting option I see is "primary plane current limit", which you have set to auto. I found this doing a quick search:
"Long Duration Power Limit: Max
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Max
Primary Plane Current Limit: Max
Secondary Plane Current Limit: Max
~To get "Max", type in 10000 and press Enter.
~These are simply power limits. They are only used to stop the CPU from using a certain amount of watts/amps.
~But since we are overclocking, we don't care for limits and should set them to max.
~It will not hurt the CPU at all (it won't suddenly use 1000 amps and blow up). Its not what it will use, just a limit of what it can use.
~This won't allow the CPU to user more than is should either. These are NOT safety limits."
This was for an asrock mobo, but the same principle applies. I would try changing the value to something like 500 and seeing if the issue continues.
edit: I have it set to auto in my screenshots above because I have turbo mode disabled so it doesn't affect my machine. If you have to use turbo mode, then you may want to try changing these to 500.
"Long Duration Power Limit: Max
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Max
Primary Plane Current Limit: Max
Secondary Plane Current Limit: Max
~To get "Max", type in 10000 and press Enter.
~These are simply power limits. They are only used to stop the CPU from using a certain amount of watts/amps.
~But since we are overclocking, we don't care for limits and should set them to max.
~It will not hurt the CPU at all (it won't suddenly use 1000 amps and blow up). Its not what it will use, just a limit of what it can use.
~This won't allow the CPU to user more than is should either. These are NOT safety limits."
This was for an asrock mobo, but the same principle applies. I would try changing the value to something like 500 and seeing if the issue continues.
edit: I have it set to auto in my screenshots above because I have turbo mode disabled so it doesn't affect my machine. If you have to use turbo mode, then you may want to try changing these to 500.
I tried with
short: 230
long: 230
primary: 500
dont seem to have a secondary plane option
a while ago and problem persisted. Guess i'll try going higher, but I doubt it was reaching those limits
also I just got this response in overclock.net
that seems plausible I guess? although mobo temps seem to be fine during the blend test
not sure if it would explain how instead of throtling it down, it throtles it off. It's not like it goes from 4.4 to 3.9 or something, it goes back to base 3.3 clock
that seems plausible I guess? although mobo temps seem to be fine during the blend test
not sure if it would explain how instead of throtling it down, it throtles it off. It's not like it goes from 4.4 to 3.9 or something, it goes back to base 3.3 clock
apparently they rolled out a new one with W8 that lists "improved stability", mh. Gonna download
dragonballjoseph
Member
I'm one who likes to not spend money. So basically forced myself to build my PC.
It's been 6 days since it's been built and I must say that this is one of the best purchasing decisions of my life. Soooooo good.
All I have left to buy is a GPU. But I'm going to wait a bit on that since I already have a backlog of games. And my PC can run a majority of my games at high settings. So hopefully the card I want is a bit cheaper by the time I'm ready to buy. ^_^
It's been 6 days since it's been built and I must say that this is one of the best purchasing decisions of my life. Soooooo good.
All I have left to buy is a GPU. But I'm going to wait a bit on that since I already have a backlog of games. And my PC can run a majority of my games at high settings. So hopefully the card I want is a bit cheaper by the time I'm ready to buy. ^_^
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO it was doing so well
it took longer than before after the BIOS update, but now it's stuck at the "winding up, winding down" loop again
temps and load are much better and more stable (never a spike above 70°) until it reaches this point, but yeah.. didnt fix the problem
That is how it is now too. They use PLX chips to increase it.
Fear not. Or go 2011 like real men.
VRM over heating sounds possible. It's an LE and you are trying 4.4 on it. I tell people 4.2 - 4.3 for a reason. That said what voltage are you running idle/load, and have you tried running fixed voltage , but with speed step?
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO it was doing so well
it took longer than before after the BIOS update, but now it's stuck at the "winding up, winding down" loop again
temps and load are much better and more stable (never a spike above 70°) until it reaches this point, but yeah.. didnt fix the problem
Also point a fan at your vrms ( small black boxes around the CPU )
Yup!
Yeah but I want to buy E class when its ahead of the curve not behind. Intel should skip ivy-e and go straight to haswell-e with soldered heat cap not tim
vcore at idle is about 1.32
and yeah, im giving up and blaming it on the board being cheap, at least for now.
maybe i'll try a way to cool down those vrms
for now I think im just gonna use the OC (4.5ghz) and just dont run stress tests. I doubt it'll throttle down even during intense games (managed to get cpu usage to 80% on a game and it was fine). At least it's not like the blend tests are giving me freezes or BSOD. Should be stable enough.
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO it was doing so well
it took longer than before after the BIOS update, but now it's stuck at the "winding up, winding down" loop again
temps and load are much better and more stable (never a spike above 70°) until it reaches this point, but yeah.. didnt fix the problem
You're trying to overclock right?
I'm asking because I don't wanna end up with problems like this just from building a PC.
black_vegeta
Member
Lolololol, DBJ PC lolololol
yes and im getting these issues because I got a cheaper version of a good board
nothing to worry about
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