Definitely. BF3 is completely GPU bound, pretty sure a P4 could run it at 60 with a 7950
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Definitely. BF3 is completely GPU bound, pretty sure a P4 could run it at 60 with a 7950
Sportbilly
Member
Personally holding out for the Samsung. Though this is definitely the cheapest I've seen of a 24" 120hz
Shadowhaxor
Member
It's not discontinued, it's just MS being asses. Instead of letting us spend $20 or less they shoehorn us into pay $50 for the receiver and controller, even if you already have some xbox 360 controllers on tap.
As for the knock-offs, I haven't heard any issues other than getting drivers to work / not wanting to use the provided drivers, for good reason;
http://www.selfsimilar.org/2011/07/counterfeit-xbox-360-wireless-receiver-drivers/
That said you can get an official one for under 20 at amazon - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HZFCT2/?tag=neogaf0e-20
If you still want to go with the knock-off, this one has so-so reviews;
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F1ZUU4/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Just follow the following if you go this route;
1.Right click on Computer
2. Go to Properties
3. Click on Device Manager
4. Right click on the Unidentified Device
5. Go to Properties
6. Go to the Drive tab
7. Click on Update Driver...
8. Browse my computer for driver software
9. Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer
10. Choose "Microsoft Common Controller for Window Class
Xbox 360 Wireless Receiver for Windows Version: 2.1.0.1349 [8/13/2009]"
11. Accpet "Update Driver Warning"
12. Click Yes
Thanks! The reviews for that "official" one say that it is indeed fake, though. I'll probably go for the second one you listed, which I was also checking out, since it's cheaper and Prime-eligible.
is there any benefit to getting a 120hz monitor if I only play games at 60fps?
PedroPanache
Member
I've been thinking about buying a new PC, one that could play stuff like Skyrim etc. at 1080p and 60fps, also I'd like it to be able to play Wii/PS2 emulated games at 1080p and full speed. I haven't built a PC since my last one five or six years ago, but there are a couple of components I could use from that.
Bearing in mind I'm from the UK, and I already have a DVD drive and SSD, would I be able to build a PC capable of doing what I said above with a budget of around £500?
Bearing in mind I'm from the UK, and I already have a DVD drive and SSD, would I be able to build a PC capable of doing what I said above with a budget of around £500?
Infinite Justice
Member
Apparently its actually a fake version but works nonetheless.
Why not play at 120fps?
It's not a big deal for most people, granted, but I'm planning a MiniITX (hackintosh) build for non-gaming use (will have a separate machine for gaming), and I want to maximize the amount of memory so as to not need to replace the RAM if I needed more down the road. With current availability and pricing on RAM, that means 2x8GB sticks, which means I'd have to get something other than the Samsung 30nm.
I'm not opposed to it, but I don't think my computer can really handle it for most games (HD7870/i52500k). On most games I can downsample from 1440p and still get 60fps, I think I'd prefer that to 1080p/120fps, but i've never seen my fps go that high on any game. I guess games have fps locks in place that I have to disable somehow
Asrock Z77 Pro3 (ATX). I could switch to a Z77 Pro4-M or similar and sell mine, I'd barely lose 10 bucks.
It's a pretty 'not so great' 120Hz tbh.
Just about the only thing it has going for it is 120Hz, so I wouldn't recommend it.
So I bought a new computer and put it together from advice from this thread
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=42644987&highlight=#post42644987
I wanted it to be powerful, but very quiet, and it really is. So comfortable and even at gaming at max it doesn't change a thing (still cool and quiet).
But the funny thing is, it DID make a lot of annoying sounds for quite a while.. I tried a lot of things, tweaking fans especially...until I just simplylifted it up from the floor and I noticed it was completely quiet LOL. I was shocked, i didn't know resonance/vibrations made from contact with the floor in certain ways could make that much noise!
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=42644987&highlight=#post42644987
I wanted it to be powerful, but very quiet, and it really is. So comfortable and even at gaming at max it doesn't change a thing (still cool and quiet).
But the funny thing is, it DID make a lot of annoying sounds for quite a while.. I tried a lot of things, tweaking fans especially...until I just simplylifted it up from the floor and I noticed it was completely quiet LOL. I was shocked, i didn't know resonance/vibrations made from contact with the floor in certain ways could make that much noise!
That would do it
Didn't think about it before, but it sure makes sense now, yes.
Personally, I haven't seen 120hz, but I want to take the plunge from all the recommendations here. It was an ongoing discussion a couple months back.
The only games I've read that have FPS locks seem to be (multiplayer) Unreal Engine games, and even then there are some work arounds. (Chivalry can't be made to be over 90fps for example)
Hey guys, please take a look at my Steam Box build. please let me know if you think any changes might be necessary:
Intel i5 3570
ASRock B75 Pro3-M
8GB Ram Kingston hyper X 1600
2TB Seagate SATA 3
Samsung 830 128GB
Gigabyte N670OC GTX670
Antec HCG 520W
I haven't included a blu ray drive as I was hoping for some recommendations for a good cheap one. Also, I want the case to be as quiet as possible. What's a good case, and should I include an extra cooler as well?
Also, I only intend to play games on Steam and watch movies. Is it possible to control all of this through the Xbox 360 controller? Is there a good frontend which can control all of this?
Thanks guys
Intel i5 3570
ASRock B75 Pro3-M
8GB Ram Kingston hyper X 1600
2TB Seagate SATA 3
Samsung 830 128GB
Gigabyte N670OC GTX670
Antec HCG 520W
I haven't included a blu ray drive as I was hoping for some recommendations for a good cheap one. Also, I want the case to be as quiet as possible. What's a good case, and should I include an extra cooler as well?
Also, I only intend to play games on Steam and watch movies. Is it possible to control all of this through the Xbox 360 controller? Is there a good frontend which can control all of this?
Thanks guys
graywolf323
Member
so a bit of heresy here but I'm not looking at building or buying a top notch PC but looking for suggestions when it comes to a good low cost desktop that could be good for media center use
was looking at this one on Black Friday for $350
http://bfads.net/Best-Buy-Black-Friday-HP-Desktop-w-Intel-Core-i3-6GB-RAM-1TB-HDD-P21394-Link
was looking at this one on Black Friday for $350
http://bfads.net/Best-Buy-Black-Friday-HP-Desktop-w-Intel-Core-i3-6GB-RAM-1TB-HDD-P21394-Link
If you don't plan to overclock -> get an i5 3450 instead to save some money
If you plan to overclock -> get the "K" version of the 3570 and a Z77 chipset mobo
If you want a quiet PC, install a closed loop water cooler like the Antec H2O 620 or the Corsair H60 for the CPU. I recommend the first for the non-corrugated tubes that seem to be easier to work with. About the case, go for the "quiet options" from the OP.
The H60 and H100 have a non-corrugated tube version as well now. I'm not sure if it's listed yet on Newegg but I learned about them from NCIX I think a bit after I got my machine up and running with the old H60.
On a side note, anyone know if there're any desktop widgets that reflect your over-clock? I've been using All CPU Meter but noticed now when running Prime 95 that it doesn't reflect the values so I had to go download CPU-Z.
On a side note, anyone know if there're any desktop widgets that reflect your over-clock? I've been using All CPU Meter but noticed now when running Prime 95 that it doesn't reflect the values so I had to go download CPU-Z.
TouchMyBox
Member
A bit of a niche question over here:
I have have GTX 670, and it insists on treating displayport as a second-class citizen. While in an operating system, it defaults my displayport to being a secondary monitor, now that I can deal with, but outside of the OS (during BIOS and GRUB/BURG and whatnot) my displayport display is blank if I have a DVI display (which happens to be my TV) plugged in, so I have to always have my TV unplugged until I'm ready to use it.
I suppose I can just plug my monitor in via DVI as well, but it's kinda annoying that the displayport would essentially be a useless port, considering that my 5870 played nicely with displayport.
Anybody know if it's possible to sort this out?
I have have GTX 670, and it insists on treating displayport as a second-class citizen. While in an operating system, it defaults my displayport to being a secondary monitor, now that I can deal with, but outside of the OS (during BIOS and GRUB/BURG and whatnot) my displayport display is blank if I have a DVI display (which happens to be my TV) plugged in, so I have to always have my TV unplugged until I'm ready to use it.
I suppose I can just plug my monitor in via DVI as well, but it's kinda annoying that the displayport would essentially be a useless port, considering that my 5870 played nicely with displayport.
Anybody know if it's possible to sort this out?
Hey, guys. I really need to know a tad bit more on that Evo 212 120mm heatsink. After reading a few reviews about it being a pain in the ass to work in certain mid tower cases, as well as some people claiming it covered certain slots on the mobo, I find myself worried.
Should I spring for a full tower? Should I not get the heatsink? I want it, but not if it's going to be covering my ram slots or something.
Should I spring for a full tower? Should I not get the heatsink? I want it, but not if it's going to be covering my ram slots or something.
No, you don't need a full tower. Also, the way the fans clip onto that cooler means you can adjust them to clear your RAM if necessary. You're worrying too much about these things.
lostsupper
Banned
I'd point you towards the Small Form Factor guide.
They also have updated fans, basically simplified versions of the Corsair SP 120s. Great great fans.
CPU-Z, HWMonitor, and GPU-Z are the monitoring programs I use.
You should be able to select which monitor is primary and which is secondary. Are you saying that you are constantly switching inputs? Once they are plugged in, just go into your display settings and hit the check box that says 'Make this my primary'.
But yeah, the issues with NVIDIA and displayport are endless. SMH.
It's totally cool, and unless you bought RAM with giant fins (which is totally useless on DDR3), then you're cool. This is why we put low profile RAM in the OP builds.
RumblingRosco
Member
Just a heads-up, the Cooler Master Elite 120 mITX case is only $39.99 after rebate with free shipping on Newegg; it was $49.99 + $10.00 shipping just yesterday, and in general sells for $50-60 before shipping/tax at most places. Just bought it for the build I've been mentioning on-and-off for the past week; this saves me $20 and makes it very, very easy for me to fit into my $650 budget at this point. I'm hoping to find a few more quick sales on the pieces I want to get it down closer to $600.
Question: Is it worthwhile to replace the stock heatsink from AMD's A6/A8/A10 line? I'm not going to be using a dedicated GPU, just going to stick with the integrated graphics.
Question: Is it worthwhile to replace the stock heatsink from AMD's A6/A8/A10 line? I'm not going to be using a dedicated GPU, just going to stick with the integrated graphics.
chixdiggit
Member
Thanks That was my problem. Gave the drive a letter and it works great.
What's the best way to go about hooking up multiple case fans? I just got a few Corsair AF120s for my new build, and they've all got 3pin adapters. There's the one 3pin on the mobo (where the current exhaust fan is), which I intend to replace with a new fan. But then looking at the cables I have on the PSU, it seems I've only got 1 (maybe 2) 3pins on there to plug into. What's the best route? Should I buy some Y-splitters, or is it better to get a fan controller card?
Plug them in the 4pin headers on your motherboard. If you are out of those too, then you'll need to get some molex->fan header adapters.
Probably, especially if you'll be overclocking it.
Thanks. I'll give that a go when I install them in the morning.
RumblingRosco
Member
I won't be overclocking whatsoever. It'll never be used for anything more intense than 1080p Youtube videos. Still necessary? If so, any suggestions?
Actually, I may want to replace it anyway because I'm assuming the stock heatsink is pretty loud. A quieter alternative would be good. I'll look into it.
MiniBossman
Member
So I am thinking this is my final configuration. Hoping maybe there might be some sales next week to make it a little easier to swallow.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($169.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.29 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($184.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.72 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic M12II 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($130.17 @ Newegg)
Total: $1111.13
Nothing to change here right?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($169.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.29 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($184.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.72 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic M12II 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($130.17 @ Newegg)
Total: $1111.13
Nothing to change here right?
Whiteshirt
Member
Even 120hz isn't a saving grace for that monitor. I'd rather get a good IPS monitor rather than that 120hz monitor.
Everything about that Acer is bad: TN technology, horrible contrast, horrible motion performance.
Nope. Should still be fine though.
Well, yeah. But that's like saying you'd rather buy some GTX680 over a reference 560Ti or something.
how'saboot
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231548
Instead?
This is my last part! My bank account can feel itself getting $1000 lighter!
(and feel free to recommend me RAM. I know you guys already did recommend sticks, but I don't plan to OC any time soon, and I'd prefer the lower timings)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231548
Instead?
This is my last part! My bank account can feel itself getting $1000 lighter!
(and feel free to recommend me RAM. I know you guys already did recommend sticks, but I don't plan to OC any time soon, and I'd prefer the lower timings)
You'll have to set the timings manually anyway, so if you consider that 'overclocking' then it's the same thing.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147096
Get these.
Put 9-9-9-24, 1600, 1.5V
You are done! 20 seconds. Also you are fretting something that will affect your performance <0.2% so just buy those sticks anyway yo. Save some $.
*The Corsair ones are fine too
That'll work or you can go with these and save ten bucks. The timings not as low as the Ares but I think it looks nicer.
RumblingRosco
Member
One final check-in before I start going crazy buying this all. Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated.
For my mITX build, which will only be used for web browsing, Youtube/Netflix, Office products, and iTunes/Pandora. It will not be used for a drop of gaming, video editing, overclocking, or large file-crunching.
CPU/iGPU: Intel Core i3-3220 Ivy Bridge 3.3GHz LGA 1155 55W Dual-Core Intel HD2500 - $130
Motherboard: ASUS P8H77-I LGA 1155 Intel H77 mITX - $80 (normally $100, but NE has a combo deal with the case)
RAM: SAMSUNG 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) - $36
SSD: SAMSUNG 840 Series MZ-7TD120BW 2.5" 120GB SATA III - $90
Case: CM Elite 120 mITX - $40 AR
Power Supply: PC Power & Cooling 400w modular 80+ Bronze - $40 AR
Total: $416, or $395 after I count in cashback bonuses from my Discover card. That includes all taxes and shipping charges. That leaves me ~$250 for the OS, a monitor, a wifi stick (or card, haven't decided yet) and cheap speakers. I might replace that SSD with another one if I see a good deal pop up in the next few weeks. How does it look, PC-GAF?
I was strongly leaning going for one of the AMD A6/A8 processors, but it seems like they have great iGPUs but fall behind on single-core processing compared to the i3 line, and I expect single-core usage to be more important for everyday tasks.
Oh, and I've already got cable ties and thermal paste from my summer 2011 build. I'm ready to put some excellent cable management into this thing... which won't be hard without a dedicated GPU, HDD (which I may add later from an old laptop, not sure yet), CD/DVD drive, and having a modular power supply.
For my mITX build, which will only be used for web browsing, Youtube/Netflix, Office products, and iTunes/Pandora. It will not be used for a drop of gaming, video editing, overclocking, or large file-crunching.
CPU/iGPU: Intel Core i3-3220 Ivy Bridge 3.3GHz LGA 1155 55W Dual-Core Intel HD2500 - $130
Motherboard: ASUS P8H77-I LGA 1155 Intel H77 mITX - $80 (normally $100, but NE has a combo deal with the case)
RAM: SAMSUNG 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) - $36
SSD: SAMSUNG 840 Series MZ-7TD120BW 2.5" 120GB SATA III - $90
Case: CM Elite 120 mITX - $40 AR
Power Supply: PC Power & Cooling 400w modular 80+ Bronze - $40 AR
Total: $416, or $395 after I count in cashback bonuses from my Discover card. That includes all taxes and shipping charges. That leaves me ~$250 for the OS, a monitor, a wifi stick (or card, haven't decided yet) and cheap speakers. I might replace that SSD with another one if I see a good deal pop up in the next few weeks. How does it look, PC-GAF?
I was strongly leaning going for one of the AMD A6/A8 processors, but it seems like they have great iGPUs but fall behind on single-core processing compared to the i3 line, and I expect single-core usage to be more important for everyday tasks.
Oh, and I've already got cable ties and thermal paste from my summer 2011 build. I'm ready to put some excellent cable management into this thing... which won't be hard without a dedicated GPU, HDD (which I may add later from an old laptop, not sure yet), CD/DVD drive, and having a modular power supply.
How difficult is it to set? Just a quick hop into the BIOS?
How well will the RAM run out of the box prior to OC'ing?
Alot of the reviews are saying it comes at 1333 out of the box and has to be set, and a few saying it's unstable at 1600. Could be nothing, but it's enough to scare me :\
Hazaro, by no means am I trying to deliberately disregard your advice, because you've been immensely helpful as I've honed my build, but I'm afraid I have to go with the EVGA card (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130787). Higher clock speeds, draws slightly less power, and is slightly smaller overall. I know you placed the quietness on the Gigabyte above the admittedly slight advantages of the EVGA, but I read enough horror stories in the reviews about Gigabyte's customer support (compared to my excellent dealings with EVGA on two separate occasions) that I have to go with the EVGA. Plus, while base price is slightly more expensive, with the deals, it's a bit cheaper.
I think I might have to end up going for the ram you recommended me though, based on your answer to my previous questions.
I think I might have to end up going for the ram you recommended me though, based on your answer to my previous questions.
EVGA defense force and marketing successful.
RMA is RMA is RMA is RMA. Horror stories exist about everyone, and it's all anecdotal. EVGA cards being twice as loud is empirical.
Per-thread performance (single core use) is good in gaming and some rendering/encoding stuff that only uses a single thread. Everyday tasks are a joke for just about any processor released in the last 5 years.
Any comfy couch gamers here? I'm trying to run Civ 5 on my TV, but the game refuses to let me choose 1366x768 full screen. It only offers 1080p.
It's true that my TV doesn't accept resolutions between 720p and 1080p, but the GPU should be able to scale it. I'm running it windowed with the desktop set to 1366x768 with no problems. AMD GPU.
It's true that my TV doesn't accept resolutions between 720p and 1080p, but the GPU should be able to scale it. I'm running it windowed with the desktop set to 1366x768 with no problems. AMD GPU.
Based on a few different reviews I just read and discussing it with a friend who built a Gigabyte system, I'll go with the Gigabyte. Though the benchmarks I saw in some of those reviews were awfully tempting.
PedroPanache
Member
I asked this a page ago, but it kind of got missed, or maybe there aren't UK gaffers perusing this thread. Anyway, would a budget of £500 be enough to build a gaming PC to run the likes of Skyrim at 1080p/60fps and run PS2/Wii games at full speed in 1080p? I've already got a SSD I can move over, so that'll save me a few quid.
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