When it comes to USB extension cables for my keyboard and mouse, I'm only finding USB 2.0 here. Is that gonna be okay?
Just to recap. Will buy this weekend unless you guys think changes may need to be required:
Intel i5 3570 – $205
ASRock B75 Pro3-M – $69
8GB Ram Kingston hyper X 1600 – $43
2TB Seagate SATA 3 – $99
Samsung 830 128GB – $94
Gigabyte N670OC GTX670 – $425
Antec HCG 520W – $83
Fractal Design Define R3 USB3.0 Titanium Grey – $135
Noctua U12P-SE2 – $69
Windows 7 – $92
Total: $1314
(don't freak out it's aus pricing)
What sort of performance can i expect out of this machine?
also is there a cheaper way to find a copy of windows? I already have win7 on my other pc
Okay this is what I have so far:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/nTN2
Note that this would be an HTPC so I don't plan on having to get a monitor. I also may be able to get a deal on Windows 7 from somewhere else.
I have no clue exactly what kind of Z77 motherboard I should get, and I would also like a suggestion for a sound card (if I need one).
The last thing that's still kicking my ass is making sure I can get a decent wi-fi adapter. This computer might never have access to ethernet.
Promoting a fuckton of VRAM has been a dubious selling point since like forever.
Just look at the GPU's in laptops for example. There's always that "its 2gb of video ram!!!!!!!"
and then you realize it's one of those shitty iterations only suitable for light web browsing and emails.
Most people i know jumped the gun on 1gb vram models back when that was the new thing only to discover it couldn't play shit and of course had to pay more money for a decent gpu.
But yea, more VRAM is starting to matter since more and more people tend to run multiple displays and such. 1gb is fine for the most part if you're just gaming on one monitor at like 1080p.
Have you used a mechanical keyboard before? I have the blackwidow and I love it but the blue switches in it are hard to get used to. For gaming red switches are considered the best, blue for typing, brown for in between, black if you hate your fingers and want them sore after gaming (they're the stiffest)
Didn't see any particulars mentioned in the OP, but can anyone recommend me a good SSD for my Macbook Pro 17"?
Currently mine houses a regular 512gb 2.5" notebook HDD, but I wanted to swap it out for a decent SSD. I'm thinking Crucial, but have no idea what's good and what's solid bang for buck these days. Only mentioned Crucial because I bought an SSD of that brand a few years back for my PC (was on a great deal).
MBP is a mid 2010 model with an i5 processor.
Apparently not, and I have no idea what you are talking about in regards to "switches."
Question everybody, I'm looking to upgrade a couple computers with SSDs soon, is the difference between the Samsung 830 and 840 enough to warrant spending the extra money?
Some of the Ducky keyboards are more regular and have LED backlighting TMKI am looking to purchase a mechanical keyboard and my budget limit $200. ATM I am looking at this keyboard:
http://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=leopold,fullsize&pid=fc500rrabn
I like the elegant design, but I wish it was backlit as sometimes I find myself browsing in the dark, and I've realized it truly helps to have a backlit keyboard. Is there any elegant quality mechanical keyboard with a backlit functionality out there?
Thanks for the awnser. Maybe I'll go to z77 board. The other stuff are ok?Hmm one thing to consider is H77 Chipset is no O/C, yet you got a 3570k which allows O/C. You would want one or the other if I remember correctly? Unless you were aiming for the Intel HD4000 in the 3570k? z77 & 3570k or h77 & 3570 (cheaper no o/c).
CPU :i5 3570K (Overclocked to 4.4GHz)
BOARD : Asrock Z77 Pro3
RAM : Corsair CMZ4GX3M1A1600C9 4GB 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Vengeance
I've decided to get these based on beje's advice that the Asrock Z77 is a good, inexpensive motherboard that overclocks rather nicely. I haven't decided on a case yet, but will probably plump for one in the £30-50 price range. As for the GPU, I want a good one within the price range of £180-220; though I can't quite afford that yet, so will wait a month or so. For now, I'll just use my old 9500GT card until I can properly upgrade.
I have an OCZ Agility3 120gb SSD and wanted to know whether it was worth upgrading to a newer model or will this one suffice?
Just to recap. Will buy this weekend unless you guys think changes may need to be required:
Intel i5 3570 $205
ASRock B75 Pro3-M $69
8GB Ram Kingston hyper X 1600 $43
2TB Seagate SATA 3 $99
Samsung 830 128GB $94
Gigabyte N670OC GTX670 $425
Antec HCG 520W $83
Fractal Design Define R3 USB3.0 Titanium Grey $135
Noctua U12P-SE2 $69
Windows 7 $92
Total: $1314
(don't freak out it's aus pricing)
What sort of performance can i expect out of this machine?
also is there a cheaper way to find a copy of windows? I already have win7 on my other pc
Also on the GPU, I know someone suggested me the 7850, but I would still really rather go Nvidia this time around, and is it still possible to stay cheap while going for a 2GB card? Is that has high as VRAM goes for mid-range cards these days?
Edit: Z77 motherboards - Asus or Gigabyte?
If I were to go with a cheaper GPU such as 7850 along with my i5 3570, how would it handle it recent games (Skyrim, Metro 2033, GTAIV Ice Mod etc.) running at 1080p? How much compromise would I need to make on settings to maintain 50-60fps at that resolution?
I have that exact same setup and, while Metro 2033 is an optimisation hell and needs a monster computer to run at the highest settins, games like Sleeping Dogs run at 60 fps locked with the highest settings and the HD texture pack except mid AA (and this is on the 1GB version of the card), and X-Com can be maxed out too. Haven't tried other recent games but it's a good enough combination to with it for 3 or 4 years until you have to find yourself compromising most settings to "mid" or "low", and by then it would probably still be better than future consoles at that point.
Just remember you can easily OC the CPU up to 4.4GHz (I hope you have the "K" version of the CPU) or further so Unreal Engine doesn't bottleneck, and that the GPU can be easily OC'd too using Sapphire Trixx up to almost 1200MHz (from stock ~900) if you start needing the extra juice without any fear, as the max voltage allowed is actually conservative and completely safe, which puts it in 7870 territory.
Edit: as a proof, here you have my 3D Mark benchmark score: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/4840410 and you can compare in our Race your PC thread how I'm doing in line with guys with an i7 and a 580, and better than a guy with a 7870 (by the way, I guess those charts need an update)
I have that exact same setup and, while Metro 2033 is an optimisation hell and needs a monster computer to run at the highest settins, games like Sleeping Dogs run at 60 fps locked with the highest settings and the HD texture pack except mid AA (and this is on the 1GB version of the card), and X-Com can be maxed out too. Haven't tried other recent games but it's a good enough combination to with it for 3 or 4 years until you have to find yourself compromising most settings to "mid" or "low", and by then it would probably still be better than future consoles at that point.
Just remember you can easily OC the CPU up to 4.4GHz (I hope you have the "K" version of the CPU) or further so Unreal Engine doesn't bottleneck, and that the GPU can be easily OC'd too using Sapphire Trixx up to almost 1200MHz (from stock ~900) if you start needing the extra juice without any fear, as the max voltage allowed is actually conservative and completely safe, which puts it in 7870 territory.
Edit: as a proof, here you have my 3D Mark benchmark score: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/4840410 and you can compare in our Race your PC thread how I'm doing in line with guys with an i7 and a 580, and better than a guy with a 7870 (by the way, I guess those charts need an update)
Yeah, when I buy the parts, it'll be the "K" version of the CPU, forgot to add that. Do you mind listing your set-up, with regards to what case and coolers you're using? Since, from the sounds of it, I'll be going for a similar set-up, it'd be good to get an idea of an adequate cooler and what kind of power supply to aim for. With regards to coolers and the like, it's something I've never bothered with in building previous PC's as they've always worked just fine without the need to add them. This will be the first time I've ever bothered to overclock something, so just want to avoid overheating my PC considering I'm a first time novice in this particular area.
Just to recap. Will buy this weekend unless you guys think changes may need to be required:
Fractal Design Define R3 USB3.0 Titanium Grey $135
they look great but I prefer a system with some internal breathing room.Are any of you guys wanting to change to mini-itx in the future?
I saw great builds on Bitfenix Prodigy and Silverstone FT03 Mini. There are some beautiful minimalistic Lian Li cases as well. Some fo them would be worth having on your desk. An art cube. A piece of asthetic. And I think - Why not.
Apple Computers are beautiful. I would love to see more OEM vendors make great beautiful enclousures, and even peripherals. We spend so much time on the computer, customizing the operating system.
I built a Prodigy and sometimes wonder if the FT03 Mini would be my thing, but then it would be even more costly since the case is more expensive and so are the PSU.
In the end I don't complain, my Prodigy is really silent, like not audible. When my 680 arrive it should become more noisy but under, where the sound is cranked up.
One funny thing though, I'm starting to check my room's temperature often just for the sake of my PC![]()
Just saw a deal on Intel Core i5 2500K for $100.
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.aspx?sku=200121
Wondering if I should bite...is the i5 3570K considerably better?
Just saw a deal on Intel Core i5 2500K for $100.
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.aspx?sku=200121
Wondering if I should bite...is the i5 3570K considerably better?
Does anyone have any insight as to how much cooler the i3 3220t runs vs the i3 3220/3225, either idle or under heavy load? I cannot find a single comparison online, just vague impressions that the 3220t is significantly cooler runner due to the lower power usage.
Just saw a deal on Intel Core i5 2500K for $100.
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.aspx?sku=200121
Wondering if I should bite...is the i5 3570K considerably better?
I am looking to purchase a mechanical keyboard and my budget limit $200. ATM I am looking at this keyboard:
http://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=leopold,fullsize&pid=fc500rrabn
I like the elegant design, but I wish it was backlit as sometimes I find myself browsing in the dark, and I've realized it truly helps to have a backlit keyboard. Is there any elegant quality mechanical keyboard with a backlit functionality out there?
My favs, only backlit, and a broader range of backlit mech boards.Yeah I need a new keyboard. I'm using a beer soaked apple aluminum keyboard with a few missing keys. Shit is nastay.
Yeah, you can run as many as you want off of a single molex, and yes they do make splitters where multiple headers come off of a single molex connection.For the rest of them, should I get a molex to 3pin adapter (how many can run off one molex, do they make a 3-4 splitter?), or I've also seen 3-pin splitters to get more directly off the mobo. Is either option better?
Also, for the one static pressure fan I picked up, what would be the best placement for that? I have room for one more on top, two in the front, one on bottom, and one on the side. In the front, I have two HDDs kinda blocking the bottom fan, just to let that be known as well.
Thanks for your input. You guys have really helped a lot in me getting my new machine purchased and running.
Fans dictate cooling capacity, not internal volume.they look great but I prefer a system with some internal breathing room.
You want me to build one of those for you? Cause I totally could and would.The complaint I've heard of the prodigy is that it is supposedly very big, almost a normal case. But then again, it has feet and handles which you can take off to remove that illusion further.
how many fans do you have in yours? it can have one front, and two tops right?
look at this guy. this is too insane: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TEAI0ohy4Ko&feature=channel&list=UL
how is it possible?? SERIOUSLY! HOW?
http://www.overclock.net/t/491752/mechanical-keyboard-guide
There are different types of switches in the keyboard that all feel different and have their strengths and weaknesses. Reds are generaly best for gamers and first time mechanical switch users. CMStorm trigger and quickfire are available in red switches and are rebranded filch keyboards (very good). The blackwidow only comes in blue switches. IIRC the blackwidow box has a window in it to test the keys so if possible visit a comp store and try it out yourself to see if you like it.
Hey guys, I'm looking to buy an affordable yet speedy SSD (it would be my first). Probably has to be SATA II as I doubt my motherboard (the ASUS M4A77TD) supports SATA III. Any suggestions?
Something like the Samsung 830 would be my choice, SATA 3 is backwards compatible so although you won't get full speed it'll still work fine.
Hey guys, I'm looking to buy an affordable yet speedy SSD (it would be my first). Probably has to be SATA II as I doubt my motherboard (the ASUS M4A77TD) supports SATA III. Any suggestions?
Ah thanks! It would be compatible with my mobo and everything, right? (Been out of the PC building scene since I built my PC in summer 2010.) Also, I just want to boot Windows from it, that's it. So it doesn't need to have a tonne of storage space or anything. I was really hoping for something under maybe $150, if that's even possible.
EDIT: Looking at the OCZ Agility 3 60GB. Good deal, or no?
EDIT: Beaten, o well
SSD's have come a long way, but I think people vouch on first hand experience that their Samsung 830's & Crucial M4's have been pretty reliable. SATA 3 (6gb/s) is backwards compatible with SATA 2 (3gb/s). Sometimes the #'s get confusing because you will see SATA 3GB/S and think SATA 3
I'd stick to someone like Samsung for the sake of reliability, OCZ's aren't the best from what I read about them.
The Samsung 830, Crucial M4 and Intel 330 are the three I'd look to myself, with the Samsung being my preferred choice.
The 3220 and 3220T are exactly the same chip, it's just the latter is lower clocked. The idle temperatures of both should be pretty much identical, and the temps of the latter under load should be a decent bit lower. The issue is that even the stock cooler in a tiny ITX case wouldn't have any trouble cooling the 3220 under load, so there's no real situation where the 3220T is beneficial, unless you're trying to run an entire system on a 50W power supply or something.
All right, looking at the Samsung 830 MZ-7PC064D/AM 64GB. NCIX doesn't have a tonne of info on it, but Newegg.com does. Good deal? Will it be compatible with my PC? Sorry for so many questions guys, just wanna make sure I get this right the first time.