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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]

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Windam

Scaley member
Both will work, but you are overpaying for them. IMO you don't need the upgrade kit and try Amazon if you can. Do you live in Canada or the US?

Live in Canada, but yeah it does seem like I'm overpaying (would only be able to order from NCIX I think). But the Norton Ghost seems like a nice thing to have, though I may not use it. Have an Antec 300 Illusion case so would a 2.5" SSD fit in the case snugly despite it only being advertised to fit 3.5" and 5.25" drives?
 

kennah

Member
There is better software out there for less.

The Samsung is really hard to find in Canada and sadly you just missed a mega Crucial sale at memoryexpress.com

Search for the drives you are loOking for in the Canada links in the OP.
 

Akkad

Banned
Live in Canada, but yeah it does seem like I'm overpaying (would only be able to order from NCIX I think). But the Norton Ghost seems like a nice thing to have, though I may not use it. Have an Antec 300 Illusion case so would a 2.5" SSD fit in the case snugly despite it only being advertised to fit 3.5" and 5.25" drives?

The great thing about SSDs is that you can drop them anywhere in the case and you don't need to secure them.
 

Windam

Scaley member
The great thing about SSDs is that you can drop them anywhere in the case and you don't need to secure them.

Ah thanks! Guess I'll go with the 128GB 830 model then ($109 CAD everywhere ._.). Thanks you guys :)

EDIT: Bit the bullet and ordered it. So excited for it to get here! :D
 

Windam

Scaley member
Hope you enjoy it :)

I know I most definitely will! Just a quick question though, how would I go about wiping my current HDD so that I could boot Windows off of the SSD? The HDD will just be used as storage, and I would like to perform a clean install of Windows on the SSD rather than copy it over with a bunch of junk. Just start fresh, you know?
 

FinKL

Member
I know I most definitely will! Just a quick question though, how would I go about wiping my current HDD so that I could boot Windows off of the SSD? The HDD will just be used as storage, and I would like to perform a clean install of Windows on the SSD rather than copy it over with a bunch of junk. Just start fresh, you know?

I would put in the SSD, connect the SSD to same SATA port where the HDD is connected to, connect HDD to another port, wipe the HDD partitions using the Windows installer from USB/CD. You can choose to make a new partition here as well for the HDD if you don't want to boot into Windows to use Disk Manager to recreate the 1 large partition on the HDD. Finally, install Windows to SSD. :) I think I've edited this post like 5 times lol
 

Windam

Scaley member
I would put in the SSD, connect the SSD to same SATA port where the HDD is connected to, connect HDD to another port, wipe the HDD partitions using the Windows installer from USB/CD. You can choose to make a new partition here as well for the HDD if you don't want to boot into Windows to use Disk Manager to recreate the 1 large partition on the HDD. Finally, install Windows to SSD. :) I think I've edited this post like 5 times lol

Haha thank you for all the information. I appreciate as much as I can get as I always have a fear of messing up the process (for anything, really).

Thanks to all you guys, you've made this process 100x easier. :)
 

Tomodachi

Member
So I think I'm about to pull the trigger on an SSD, right now on the local amazon there's like a 10€ difference in price between the samsung 830 and 840 (respectively 128/120 GB). Worth it?
 

kharma45

Member
So I think I'm about to pull the trigger on an SSD, right now on the local amazon there's like a 10€ difference in price between the samsung 830 and 840 (respectively 128/120 GB). Worth it?

Get the 830 and save your money, plus it's a bigger drive and has a reputation for reliability.
 

DarthWoo

I'm glad Grandpa porked a Chinese Muslim
Finished upgrading my CPU and am now posting from the intact PC. I think I may have somehow damaged the USB ports though, as when I started it up for the first time, it didn't detect my keyboard and mouse (mouse is plugged into the keyboard) so I restarted it, whereupon everything was fine. I had the KB/M lose connection about an hour later though, whereupon I plugged the pair into a different port and it went through the motions of installing their drivers even though it should be quite familiar with them. For a while I kept hearing the sound Windows makes when you plug something in or remove it. Anyone know what's up with that?
 
Does anyone have any experience with Logi K400 Wirelles keyboard?

Im considering it because it has all the features i need, save for backlit at a competitive price. Im holding back the purchase because i need to know if at least is decent enough to play for "wasd" use. So it is serviceable enough to at least play some FPS campaigns?

Hope anyone can share experiences with this device.
 
Does anyone have any experience with Logi K400 Wirelles keyboard?

Im considering it because it has all the features i need, save for backlit at a competitive price. Im holding back the purchase because i need to know if at least is decent enough to play for "wasd" use. So it is serviceable enough to at least play some FPS campaigns?

Hope anyone can share experiences with this device.

It's fine for browsing/htpc from the couch, but I don't think I'd try to wasd with it. It's really light and I don't think you can simultaneously press "w" and "a" or "d."
 
Some final questions.

Is the 650 W power supply enough? Even if i add two mechanical HDs later on?

What would be a good mouse & keyboard combo for the couch? I would only use sparingly. This is intended to be a big screen Steam box.

Is there anything wrong here, bad choices?


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($307.55 @ Newegg)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DG 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($30.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($124.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1208.46
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-11-16 16:36 EST-0500)
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Do you think haswell will be a major improvement?
No
Some final questions.

Is the 650 W power supply enough? Even if i add two mechanical HDs later on?

What would be a good mouse & keyboard combo for the couch? I would only use sparingly. This is intended to be a big screen Steam box.

Is there anything wrong here, bad choices?


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($307.55 @ Newegg)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DG 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($30.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($124.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1208.46
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-11-16 16:36 EST-0500)
600W is more than enough. That will draw like 300W load.
8GB should be fine as well if you want to save a bit.
Parts are all good.

Can't comment on M+KB
 

nib95

Banned
MBPs have some wonky problems with SSDs especially from that year. There was a problem with sandforce drives killing off the sata connection or something strange. I would go for Toshiba based drive (what apple used to use) or Samsung (what they currently use) to ensure compatability. Also I don't believe OS X supports trim for anything other than Apple supplied drives and thats only 10.7 and later.

So stick to a Samsung or Toshiba SSD? Also, I was going to put the latest OSX on there, don't know if that helps.
 
It's fine for browsing/htpc from the couch, but I don't think I'd try to wasd with it. It's really light and I don't think you can simultaneously press "w" and "a" or "d."
I rest my cuarrent keyboard on the lap, and the big size is unconfortable. What do you mean it can't wasd, does it only register 1 key at a time?

What would be an alternative product?

Thanks for answering.
 

sixghost

Member
Alright, I think I'm ready to get into this.

Your Current Specs: n/a, just a laptop
Budget: $900-1000 + United States
Main Use: Gaming (5), PS2/Wii/SNES Emulation (3), HD Streaming (4), General Usage (5). Rate importance on a 1-5 scale. (5 Being highest)
Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? 1900x1080 most likely.
Are you going to upgrade later? Probably not.
Are you buying a new monitor? Yes.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Starcraft 2, Most Wanted, Total War: Rome 2, Football Manager, TF2. @ 60 fps
Looking to reuse any parts?: Already purchased a i5 2500k.
When will you build?: Some time between now and the end of December
Will you be overclocking?: Yes

My attempt, mostly the Enhanced build from the OP, with a 7870: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/nYHO
CPU: i5 2500k, purchased but unopened.
Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155
RAM: G.Skill Value Series 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3-1333
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7870 2GB
Case: BitFenix Shinobi ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX 12V
Monitor: Acer S231HLbid 23.0"

Questions:
I was able to get a 2500k for $100, which freed up a bit of money to strengthen another component. Where would you recommend the extra $100 go? An SSD or upgrade to a 7950?
My original idea had a 1900x1200 monitor, but I had no idea how expensive those were, and how big actual monitors were. Is the jump in visual quality that big from 1080 to 1200?
 
I rest my cuarrent keyboard on the lap...does it only register 1 key at a time?

Yes, that's my recollection. I played DayZ with this thing briefly and ended up googling the weird lack of diagonal movement while wasd'ing. Apparently that's a thing with some wireless keyboards?

Also, if you're going to use it on your lap, the trackpad will pick up heat from your leg and not register properly. A lapboard or IKEA Dave would solve some of your issues.
 

kharma45

Member
guys quick before i lose my chance

is 1155 a dead platform? the 2500k price at microcenter is so tempting

Well you can upgrade to Ivy Bridge from it but that's it, Haswell will have a new socket.

I have triple channel ram from my i7 950, can I use three sticks without issues on a new ivy bridge processor?

What's making you want to change your CPU? Still a very capable processor even before overclocking it.
 

Katoki

Member
Just got my Gigabyte GTX 670 and plugged it in. First thing is that my monitor doesn't detect it so it hit reset. This time, I see these distorted lines running both vertically and horizontally across the screen everywhere and that HWMonitor doesn't detect the card at all despite my being able to get something to display through it while plugged into the card. Is the card screwed? I switched from an EVGA 670 to a Gigabyte 670 so the drivers shouldn't be the issue.

Looks like I should be contacting Gigabyte already.
 

FinKL

Member
Just got the 3570k for 110 at microcenter. Supposed to be a one day sale.

How does Microcenter get their CPU prices so low compared to others? PCPartpicker always points me to them, but I don't live nearby a store to pickup from :( It's either Frys or Newegg for me and even then, they are at least $30 more than Microcenter. Even right now 3570k is $50 more than nearest online competitor.
 

mr2xxx

Banned
How does Microcenter get their CPU prices so low compared to others? PCPartpicker always points me to them, but I don't live nearby a store to pickup from :( It's either Frys or Newegg for me and even then, they are at least $30 more than Microcenter. Even right now 3570k is $50 more than nearest online competitor.

CPU to get you there and people will get the rest of thier parts there to make up the loss.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Hard OCP Fall Video Card Roundup

High pricing band – Throughout the course of the evaluation, the Radeon HD 7970 traded blows with the GTX 680 and are more or less equals when it comes to the overall game play experience. This is expected given that their pricing is within a few dollars of each other. For those that must have the absolute highest frame rates (even if it makes no difference to the overall game play experience), the Radeon HD 7970 seems to pull ahead of the GTX 680. The GTX 670 brings up the rear in this price band, but ultimately provides a slightly lower game play experience for a lower price.

Middle pricing band – This pricing band was far less competitive as the Radeon HD 7950 with Boost simply demolished the GTX 660 Ti across the board with regards to raw frame rates and overall game play experience across our suite of testing.

Low pricing band – Not to be left out, the Radeon HD 7870 held up well on its own, matching the game play experience and raw frame rates to the GTX 660 Ti from the middle pricing band (except for Sleeping Dogs).

The most interesting stand out from this evaluation has been the NVIDIA GTX 660 Ti, which is priced significantly higher than the Radeon HD 7870 while turning in similar performance numbers. The GTX 660 Ti has lost its value at this point in time, lending way to the Radeon HD 7950 which has benefited from falling prices and new drivers.

If you are in the video card market today, the current offerings tend to scale very well with price and you will receive a higher level of performance for your incremental dollar spent.

tl;dr: HardOCP months late on what GAF has been saying. OP is best guide.
 

Jharp

Member
Hmm, so I may have already run into issues as I start to build. My case has three fans installed out of the box, two in front, one in back, but the guide it came with contains information on installing both bottom and top fans. Is this merely supplemental information in case I want to buy extra fans or was my case supposed to come with them? Because they ain't here.

Also odd is... bottom fans? Why would I have fans in the bottom of my computer, where it's going to be lying on a flat surface? As it is, trying to stand it up on the designated "bottom" leads it to wobble because of all the shit that's down there for fan installation.

Case is a BitFenix Raider (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811345009), I'd love some help from anyone who's worked with one.

EDIT: So according to the newegg page, it "can also be outfitted with up to two huge 200mm fans for unmatched air cooling." I suppose this means the extra fans are not included with the case, which is fine, but that still leaves the problem of my bottom panel being kind of fucked by the airfilters that are there and cause the case to wobble. They're easy to take off, but then that leaves the bottom of my case rather open, which I can't imagine is very good for airflow of it's so exposed to all the shit on my floor, right? My current case's base is totally solid, which seems like the ideal...

EDIT #2: Okay so it came with feet. Ignore this post, except for one last question: Will having the exposed fan intakes with air filters over them be an issues as far as dust/airflow goes?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
EDIT #2: Okay so it came with feet. Ignore this post, except for one last question: Will having the exposed fan intakes with air filters over them be an issues as far as dust/airflow goes?
Not sure I follow? The case is made to be used with filters. With fans or not on them.

Read the manuals, specially the motherboard one!
 

Jharp

Member
Am I suppose to take off these little metal pegs protruding out of the I/O panel inwards to the case? They seem to be forcing my motherboard's ports from alligning with them. According to my mobo manual, it just shows the I/O panel slide in, then the motherboard lining up with it perfectly, but something is keep me from being able to do that.
 

scogoth

Member
Finally got my internal lighting done. Everything is now complete! Don't worry mkenyon they are dimmable, I only put them on blinding light mode for the photo.

Ouyik.jpg

W9eHy.jpg

kZWH2.jpg

last photos of this build I swear
 
People with a Microcenter near them make me mad with jealousy. I'd hop on that right now if I could.

for me living in NYC, the closest would be in Yonkers which is outside the city. so it's 13-15 dollars to take the train and a 10 minute train ride (not including the 1.5 hours to get to the metro north trains, not to be confused with the nyc subway)
to get there and then of course taxes. so it's already at 200.
then of course I have to go with my girlfriend. so that means eating as well. then she might want something... nah, just not worth it. :D but it is more fun to buy it in person.

quick question to clarify, if I buy a Z77 Mobo, I can use my 2500K correct? and I can upgrade later on to a 3770K?
 

Jharp

Member
These fucking teeth are preventing me from lining my mobo up with the screws. What the hell am I supposed to do here? Surely I'm doing something wrong.

iopanelteeeth.png
 

tafer

Member
Finally got my internal lighting done. Everything is now complete! Don't worry mkenyon they are dimmable, I only put them on blinding light mode for the photo.



last photos of this build I swear

Wow, that's one tidy machine... I'm starting to feel bad for all the builds I end with.
 
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