Anton668
Member
positive nothing else got changed in BIOS by accident?
no viruses, malware, etc.. ?
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
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positive nothing else got changed in BIOS by accident?
no viruses, malware, etc.. ?
OminoMichelin
Member
Potentially dumb question: is your copy of windows legit?
Anton668
Member
runnin_blue
Banned
It's a legit copy of windows 7 it's just not activated yet.
Definitely no virus', computer is 2 hours old.
Definitely no changes in bios either.
Edit: fixed! Updatted the wifi card drivers & the AHCI drivers and it fixed it.
Dunno which one was causing the problem but I suspect the wifi card.
awanderingsoul
Member
I know I could probably find this out myself fairly quickly but i'm stuck at work for the next couple of hours so hoping someone could steer me in the right direction on this..
A friend of mine is selling the following for £500, a) is this good value and b) what sort of performance would I be getting out of it. Started to get into PC gaming a bit more following a few excellent indie games but I wouldn't mind something that runs some of the prettier high end games.
I5 - 3330 3.0GHz processor
8GB (2 x 4GB) Corsair Veangence RAM DDR3 1600 MHz
ATI Radeon HD ASUS 7870 DC2 2gb GDDR5 graphics card
600W Cooler Master Silent Pro power unit
1TB 3.5 inch Hard Drive
DVD RW Drive
Cooler Master 690 II white PC case with perspex window I installed and Assassins Creed logo cut out on other side to be painted
20 inch LG Flatron Wide LCD Monitor
Logitech keyboard and Corsair Gaming Mouse
A friend of mine is selling the following for £500, a) is this good value and b) what sort of performance would I be getting out of it. Started to get into PC gaming a bit more following a few excellent indie games but I wouldn't mind something that runs some of the prettier high end games.
I5 - 3330 3.0GHz processor
8GB (2 x 4GB) Corsair Veangence RAM DDR3 1600 MHz
ATI Radeon HD ASUS 7870 DC2 2gb GDDR5 graphics card
600W Cooler Master Silent Pro power unit
1TB 3.5 inch Hard Drive
DVD RW Drive
Cooler Master 690 II white PC case with perspex window I installed and Assassins Creed logo cut out on other side to be painted
20 inch LG Flatron Wide LCD Monitor
Logitech keyboard and Corsair Gaming Mouse
Eugh, I think my GPU is taking the long ride into the sunset. Was playing Max Payne 3 earlier and after about 2 hours of play the screen locked up with artifacts for about 6-8 seconds, then promptly booted my ass back to the desktop with a "the display driver has stopped working" error message. Thoughts, PCgaf? The card (5870) is over 4 years old now and the 9000 series (or whatever they're calling it) is coming up pretty fast, so if I guess if I *had* to upgrade now wouldn't be the worst time imaginable, but I'd rather wait off a bit 'till the 9000 series dips a bit in price if I could.
Any and all responses will be much appreciated.
EDIT: Might be worth mentioning I'm on the newest Beta drivers, lol...
Any and all responses will be much appreciated.
EDIT: Might be worth mentioning I'm on the newest Beta drivers, lol...
Anton668
Member
i'd try non beta drivers
also, at some point, with older cards its better to stop upgrading drivers as they just arent designed for your card anymore and do more harm then good. my card prior to my 5770 was like that. I would run out and get the latest drivers, only to mess everything up and have to revert
Yeah I'll try the non-beta drivers for sure, and yeah I know what you mean with the drivers. Only reason I snagged these is because I reformatted earlier this week and needed to download some anyways, plus it noted improved performance in Metro LL so I thought eh why not.
Felix Lighter
Member
Is it likely that the 7000 series cards are going to be removed from the Never Settle promotion when the next gen cards are officially released? I know if you have a gold code it will be available until Dec 31st but my concern is 7950 sold after the launch will not include the code.
So I see on slickdeals MSI Twin Frozr Radeon HD 7850 for $125 after rebate which seems like an awesome price.
Should I grab it or wait for the new AMD cards to drop?
Currently running a 6870 card.
EDIT:
Actually there are lots of cards on sale including a 7950 3GB for $180 after rebate.
Should I grab it or wait for the new AMD cards to drop?
Currently running a 6870 card.
EDIT:
Actually there are lots of cards on sale including a 7950 3GB for $180 after rebate.
Quick, easy question.
Just installed my new PSU. How can I check to see that my computer actually recognizes the new one? Is there some type of "system info" in the Control Panel where it lists the GPU, PSU, etc.? It's running perfectly, but I'm just curious.
Thanks, new to Windows and Windows 8.
Just installed my new PSU. How can I check to see that my computer actually recognizes the new one? Is there some type of "system info" in the Control Panel where it lists the GPU, PSU, etc.? It's running perfectly, but I'm just curious.
Thanks, new to Windows and Windows 8.
If your computer is on, the PSU is recognised.
OldAsUrSock
Banned
I am not sure if it was the adapter or my old monitor, but when I used the DVI to VGA adapter from Sapphire, my monitor would flicker a bit. It was mostly only noticeable if you were viewing something dark like Steam.
Anton668
Member
pretty much this...
but....
why are you asking?
what information were you thinking of finding out?
cuz the only thing the PSU sends to the PC is power. no information is being sent from the PSU. taking the side of the case and reading the label is really your only way to get PSU info.
now unless your thinking of data they gather from stress testing/reviewing PSU that some places do, but that requires special equipment
no reason at all. i'm just curious if it now says "SeaSonic 650W" in the control panel somewhere. guess not though, thanks.
another noob question, does upgrading from a stock PSU to one with higher wattage give any type of performance boost such as a few extra FPS or is that completely reliant on the GPU? thanks.
another noob question, does upgrading from a stock PSU to one with higher wattage give any type of performance boost such as a few extra FPS or is that completely reliant on the GPU? thanks.
Akros
Neo Member
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: none
Budget: 1500 USA
Main Use: 5 mainly gaming, streaming in hd, watching movies
Monitor Resolution: want a new monitor idk whats good out there
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: i want an excellent fps ratio, tired of playing at low graphics...i wanna max out for once or at least get close
Looking to reuse any parts?: NO!
When will you build?: by 2014 but the sooner the better i can unleash my gaming urge
Will you be overclocking?: YMaybe
The non-Gaming version doesn't have SLI/Crossfire support, which is probably the big difference.
factorybelt
Neo Member
Nah, they both support multiple video cards.
The gaming version has a different network chipset, and is red and black. Pretty much it.
terrdactycalsrock
Member
Finally got my PC running right, and it is AMAZING! Seriously, I've never owned a gaming PC before and seeing every maxed at 60 fps is wild. I am in need of a monitor though, and Im curious about one thing. What is a good contrast ratio? After getting a laptop that always looked washed out I've been very cautious of the color my monitors can produce
Gaming has more power phases i think, not sure about the MOSFETS. ASUS LK i still view as a better buy than either at £105 if you can stretch to it, great quality board.
How does the below look to you?Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: none
Budget: 1500 USA
Main Use: 5 mainly gaming, streaming in hd, watching movies
Monitor Resolution: want a new monitor idk whats good out there
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: i want an excellent fps ratio, tired of playing at low graphics...i wanna max out for once or at least get close
Looking to reuse any parts?: NO!
When will you build?: by 2014 but the sooner the better i can unleash my gaming urge
Will you be overclocking?: YMaybe
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($144.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7970 3GB Video Card ($283.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($95.87 @ Outlet PC)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($266.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1500.73
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-09-27 15:02 EDT-0400)
The main reason I went for an i7 is for the streaming part, although you would likely still be fine on an i5. Monitor wise I've gone for the 144Hz Asus for you for dat smoothness
From where? I would definitely be interested in doing that over the 7950's I've been seeing.
I tend to see 1000:1 as a decent starting point. Ignore all the bullshit standards and see what the monitor is capable of by real reviews or benchmarks of them.
Laptop monitors are just pure garbage. Basically atm it comes down to really good ips or amazing tn panels that drive 120hz or 144hz with very low input or pixel persistence.
Anton668
Member
obviously, the higher the better. but! if im not mistaken, if it says dynamic contrast ratio, ignore it as every company has there own way of rating. there is no universal measurement used.
Let me know how that works out, I'm putting roughly the same amount of stuff in there, although I guess you have no optical drive? One thing that seems like it might be challenging (for me at least) is the mechanical HDD - I think we're going to have to remove the drive cage to get the radiator for the AIO liquid cooler to fit in the front, so I think the HDD will have to go on the side drive cage, which Cooler Master also removed in their demo video. There seems to be a spot under the optical bay for an SSD, so that's where I was planning to stash that...
Jzero
Member
I do have an optical drive. I manually turned on the LED fan i put in to see how it's going to look when finished. Damn it i really want to finish it already.
I don't know where to place this, I can't make a thread in OT so I am going to post this here. If it is not supposed to be here, just tell me so, and I will redact my post with the quickness. Also forgive me if that is the case. Well onto my question...
I forgot that I had a EVGA Classified x58 SLI-4 motherboard. I bought this motherboard a few years ago, and the day I got it was the day my dog died so I tucked it away cause it brought up sad memories. But now that I stumbled upon it, I am wondering what should I do with it. Should I sell it, or should I build a PC out of it? If I should build a PC, what would you fellows recommend? Before I had planned to build my first PC using this board, but I stopped cause of you know why.
I forgot that I had a EVGA Classified x58 SLI-4 motherboard. I bought this motherboard a few years ago, and the day I got it was the day my dog died so I tucked it away cause it brought up sad memories. But now that I stumbled upon it, I am wondering what should I do with it. Should I sell it, or should I build a PC out of it? If I should build a PC, what would you fellows recommend? Before I had planned to build my first PC using this board, but I stopped cause of you know why.
Erebus
Member
CreepingFear
Member
So with the disappointing news on the console version of Watch Dogs, what kind of fps should I see at 1080p on max settings with a 2600k oced to 4.4ghz and a evga gtx 670 ftw? I'm hoping for at least 60fps.
I'm gonna guess this will run decently on PC and not the usual Ubisoft port. Black List ran great and Watch Dogs is another game where they are partnered with Nvidia to make the game run better on PC. As long as the settings are not SSAA I don't see anything special about it that won't allow you to keep 60.
We won't know until it is released but you have a pretty solid setup so you should be fine.
Jzero
Member
What do you mean? I guess it depends on the seller's feedback score if that's what you're talking about.
Oh no, it's straight from amazon itself. I just wondered if they provide the correct plug.
In Belgium, we have these
I think UK has different ones. I'm a noob at this stuff, don't know if they provide multiple plugs or something
Should be as simple as using an adapter to convert from our 3 pin to your 2 pin. Or use another cable if it is detachable. You will need to get either of these separately.
A couple of weeks if you send it to the manufacturer. If it's not all sticks you can RMA just what's wrong. If it's the vendor they have their own policies.
I bought one for Win 8 Pro from trekstar. Haven't used it yet, since I'm still waiting for my parts to arrive
Celcius
°Temp. member
Lets say I have a gtx 560 now and plan on getting a R9 290X. Can I use the radeon for graphics and the geforce for physx?
If so, would I just:
1. Leave the nvidia graphics + physx drivers installed or only the physx drivers?
2. Then just slide the geforce down to pci-e slot 2 and put the radeon in pci-e slot 1 & install amd drivers as normal?
Are there any issues such as compatibility?
If so, would I just:
1. Leave the nvidia graphics + physx drivers installed or only the physx drivers?
2. Then just slide the geforce down to pci-e slot 2 and put the radeon in pci-e slot 1 & install amd drivers as normal?
Are there any issues such as compatibility?
longdi
Banned
wont work this way...
Only works with games that run a physx version older than v3 and needs a hacked nvidia driver.
www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352031
For me a G.Skill or Corsair RMA takes 5 days (California, US), but in the EU it can take a lot longer since they have different divisions and their product shipments are from elsewhere(?)
If you live in Greece I have no idea. You'd look up EU return centers and probably just try and get a return from where you bought it if possible rather than the maker of the part.
For me a G.Skill or Corsair RMA takes 5 days (California, US), but in the EU it can take a lot longer since they have different divisions and their product shipments are from elsewhere(?)
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