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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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How much are you willing to spend?
$160-ish
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0ST0DV4412
You can OC to 1866 if you want, and it matches the board very well.
It's too bad that these wouldn't match the colour scheme of your motherboard.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231539
Charrettizard
Member
I have a couple questions and both are related:
Well, I recently decided to purchase a 500GB HDD because I was sick of dealing with the measly amount of space my 64 GB SSD provided (all I could install on it was DOTA); however, I can't quite figure out how to see both drives in Windows. If I go to 'My Computer', I only see my SSD visible (which I'm hoping to use only for Windows) and the HDD doesn't automatically appear - I believe my motherboard (Intel) has the feature to allows to allocate what data goes to what drive.
Also, does anyone know how to get ride of the windows.old file without having software that blows away a partition? Seems like a rather pointless feature.
Well, I recently decided to purchase a 500GB HDD because I was sick of dealing with the measly amount of space my 64 GB SSD provided (all I could install on it was DOTA); however, I can't quite figure out how to see both drives in Windows. If I go to 'My Computer', I only see my SSD visible (which I'm hoping to use only for Windows) and the HDD doesn't automatically appear - I believe my motherboard (Intel) has the feature to allows to allocate what data goes to what drive.
Also, does anyone know how to get ride of the windows.old file without having software that blows away a partition? Seems like a rather pointless feature.
Shadowhaxor
Member
Just goto control panel -> programs and run the AMD catalyst install manager. When prompted choose express uninstall all.
Let it finish and reboot. Afterwards run Driver Sweeper (http://www.guru3d.com/content-page/guru3d-driver-sweeper.html) to remove any traces of the driver that may have got left behind.
For the drive issue, you have to go into the drive management and activate / bring online that drive. Otherwise it will not show.Afterwards you'll be able to format / partition it. For the windows.old, if you already moved your stuff from the documents, desktop, etc.... you can delete it.
Shadowhaxor
Member
Adding to what was already said, you can get some decent cooling involved and overclock that bad boy to 4.3. easily. I'm sitting at 4.4 on air cooling but will be going to liquid fairly shortly. Crank it up~! Pretty sure that Dolphin emulation is just as intensive as Metro and you can run that will ease on that setup with some bells and whistles turned down.
Does anybody know how conservative the auto-detect best setting is for the Witcher 2. I just built my first pc (gtx 770 4gb, i7 3770k, 16gb ram) and I'm not sure how high to put the settings. I've been playing on high settings right now but I was wondering if I could go up to ultra
Hey guys, I use an Antec 300 case for my pc right now and the 2 front USB ports are busted... I've looked on the Antec website and they are out of stock on the front port assembly and I can't seem to find any available online anywhere.
I'm starting to think that I might have to buy a front USB assembly that goes in a drive bay.
Anybody has good suggestions for a USB3 front port assembly that's not too expensive?
I'm starting to think that I might have to buy a front USB assembly that goes in a drive bay.
Anybody has good suggestions for a USB3 front port assembly that's not too expensive?
Shadowhaxor
Member
Do you already have a monitor? Also any preference; AMD or Intel? AMD or Nvidia?
nope ,intel , Nvidia
Hello GAF. I'm ordering PC parts tomorrow! I made a post earlier about buying a new PC, but I looked at some benchmarks comparing Sandy Bridge and Haswell's performance in games and don't see a 300 dollar difference in performance.
I currently have an i5 2500k, a MSI P67-G45 (B3) mobo, 8 gigs of RAM, a 1TB HD, an optical drive, and a 1920x1200 monitor. Here's what I'm currently looking at.
Case: Corsair 500r
PSU: Seasonic M12II 650w
SSD: Samsung 840 250GB
Video Card: Whatever 760 I can find.
Cooler: Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo
Mouse: Logitech g400s
Total comes to around 700. The max I'd want to spend is 1k, but I'd prefer to keep it around 800.
Questions!
1. Would you consider a 770 for 1920x1200? There's a not zero chance I upgrade to a 27" Korean IPS monitor in the future, but assume we're purchasing for my current monitor. SLI isn't an option with this motherboard.
2. Windows 7 OEM locks to the mobo, so I won't need to repurchase Windows, right?
Sanity check me ASAP. Thanks!
I currently have an i5 2500k, a MSI P67-G45 (B3) mobo, 8 gigs of RAM, a 1TB HD, an optical drive, and a 1920x1200 monitor. Here's what I'm currently looking at.
Case: Corsair 500r
PSU: Seasonic M12II 650w
SSD: Samsung 840 250GB
Video Card: Whatever 760 I can find.
Cooler: Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo
Mouse: Logitech g400s
Total comes to around 700. The max I'd want to spend is 1k, but I'd prefer to keep it around 800.
Questions!
1. Would you consider a 770 for 1920x1200? There's a not zero chance I upgrade to a 27" Korean IPS monitor in the future, but assume we're purchasing for my current monitor. SLI isn't an option with this motherboard.
2. Windows 7 OEM locks to the mobo, so I won't need to repurchase Windows, right?
Sanity check me ASAP. Thanks!
Charrettizard
Member
I cannot thank you enough! Everything is working perfectly and it's all thanks to your quick response.
greatnorthern
Member
You're going to get recommendations for Driver Sweeper, but it does have a tendency to remove files that have nothing to do with your video card or drivers.
I've found this to be a good primer and wiping the slate completely clean:
http://www.overclock.net/t/988215/h...l-ati-amd-software-drivers-for-graphics-cards
theshizzle
Member
Hey guys, I'm looking at buying the Asus CM6870-US014S straight outta the box from frys.
Heres the specs and link:
CPU: Intel® Core i7-3770
Graphic: Nvidia GTX650 1GB DDR5
Memory: 32GB at 1600MHz
Storage: 1TB SATA hard drive (7200rpmRPM)
http://www.frys.com/product/7546316?
I know the graphics card isn't the best, but I won't be doing too much heavy gaming on it, mostly using it for everyday stuff. Any thoughts on it?
Heres the specs and link:
CPU: Intel® Core i7-3770
Graphic: Nvidia GTX650 1GB DDR5
Memory: 32GB at 1600MHz
Storage: 1TB SATA hard drive (7200rpmRPM)
http://www.frys.com/product/7546316?
I know the graphics card isn't the best, but I won't be doing too much heavy gaming on it, mostly using it for everyday stuff. Any thoughts on it?
Shadowhaxor
Member
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=20101591
Added a SSD to the build as I wasn't sure if you would want one for the OS drive or not, so feel free to drop that. You could probably drop to a GTX 680 if you can find one for cheap. Still a good card but the prices haven't dropped and you wanted to stay under $1500.00 On the other hand if you drop the SSD you can pick up a decent heatsink / fan for the processor; http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099&Tpk=Hyper 212 EVO&IsVirtualParent=1
- ASUS GTX760-DC2OC-2GD5 GeForce GTX 760 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
- SeaSonic M12II 650 SS-650AM 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Semi-modular Power
- ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
- SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD128BW 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
- Western Digital WD Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
- ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
- Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155
- G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL
- Corsair Obsidian Series 350D CC-9011029-WW Black Aluminum / Steel MicroATX Case with Window
- ASUS VG248QE Black 24" 144Hz 1ms (GTG) HDMI Widescreen LED Backlight LCD 3D Monitor
You could save money on the excessive RAM and upgrade to a better graphics card. You will never need 32GB RAM for anything at all. Heck, most games barely use more than 4GB. 8GB is probably optimal if you're only using the PC for gaming, you only need 16GB if you'll be doing video and photoshop editing. There is literally nothing right now that uses 32GB RAM at all. You're just wasting your money.
There is some stuff that uses it. But yeah 32 gig is a waste for most purposes and with that processor. You can build a MUCH better machine for that $999 yourself.
theshizzle
Member
Ok cool, thank you both, looks like I'm gonna lower the ram for a better processor and maybe even add an ssd, I think the graphics card is fine, maybe even too much because the most intensive thing I might play is probably dota 2, and some mmo's and I can handle those on my current gtx460, any recommendations for downgrading the graphics card?
Even if you aren't going to play that many graphic intense games I'd still get the 650Ti Boost.
Last I checked more DIMMS = More stress on the NB/Mem controller. It really will only affect going for a maximum 24/7 OC though.
Who says that?
Last I checked more DIMMS = More stress on the NB/Mem controller. It really will only affect going for a maximum 24/7 OC though.
Based on every single person that quoted me, and in the OP.
Dunno if it'll get answered but I'll ask in here anyway:
My dad's PC doesn't seem to want to install the nvidia drivers. Tried a few versions like 314.22 and even the ones that introduced the 600 series (he bought a gt61). The problem is regardless of the driver version the installer pretty much immediately quits as soon as it tries to install the display drivers.
I've booted, rebooted, uninstalled everything, driver sweepered everything and even removed whatever couldn't be (for one reason or another) by hand and still as soon as I try to install them it will sit for a few seconds on installing the display driver then immediately fail. Googling didn't seem to provide any concrete solutions. The XP hardware driver wizard seems to recognize it is a GT610 but I can't even get it to point at the folder with the drivers in it (it'll also fail out after that step). Any advice?
My dad's PC doesn't seem to want to install the nvidia drivers. Tried a few versions like 314.22 and even the ones that introduced the 600 series (he bought a gt61). The problem is regardless of the driver version the installer pretty much immediately quits as soon as it tries to install the display drivers.
I've booted, rebooted, uninstalled everything, driver sweepered everything and even removed whatever couldn't be (for one reason or another) by hand and still as soon as I try to install them it will sit for a few seconds on installing the display driver then immediately fail. Googling didn't seem to provide any concrete solutions. The XP hardware driver wizard seems to recognize it is a GT610 but I can't even get it to point at the folder with the drivers in it (it'll also fail out after that step). Any advice?
Update the BIOS of your dad's PC's motherboard.
What PC is it?
Your problem is that it's stuck in VGA resolution right without the drivers?
I dunno, it was running fine until I guess he got GeForce Experience-d and he went and updated the drivers because of a prompt or so he told me, so it shouldn't be a BIOS problem (he has had it for at least a month or two).
It's a stupid Dell Dimension E521 or something. I'm about to throw it out the window and just build him something better with about 500 bucks instead. He also has two laptops with intel i3s and W7 and doesn't use those over his WinXP single core AMD CPU desktop.
It isn't possible to even put in 16:9 resolutions (5:4/4:3 only) without drivers, much less the interface lag in this case.
"Where in the OP does it even say that"
*browses all text* and not the build sheet.
Oh.
The 4x4GB was a quick multiplication for price/cost. 4x4GB was cheaper, but it will require more voltage on your memory/NB controller to get to the same high OC, or possibibly limit your maximum overclock.
It's a non-issue for almost everyone except the people who will OC to above 4.5Ghz and with 2x8GB kits now at roughly the same prices for the given speed/timings it should be subbed in.
Just check for the BIOS update, and if there isn't one, it's time to move on. At least exhaust your fixing options first.
Tell him to use the laptop.
If he requires a bigger screen, then just set up the laptop like a desktop.
For casuals, it's kind of not worth it to build a power rig unless you feel like it. I still do it with an objective in mind (i.e. low power consumption).
ThoseDeafMutes
Member
Drawing up the list for my intended build again.
(Australian)
Is there anything obviously missing or wrong with this build? I'm recycling my 560ti for video card duties, so I have not included a GPU in the build (will buy next year).
(Australian)
Is there anything obviously missing or wrong with this build? I'm recycling my 560ti for video card duties, so I have not included a GPU in the build (will buy next year).
GravityMan
Member
Heh. That rig will easily run The Witcher 2 at a locked 60FPS on Ultra settings. Go for it. Just leave ubersampling disabled.
Drawing up the list for my intended build again.
(Australian)
Is there anything obviously missing or wrong with this build? I'm recycling my 560ti for video card duties, so I have not included a GPU in the build (will buy next year).
Are you going to OC at all? Haswell doesn't like OC'ing, and I doubt the stock cooler could cope. And if you're not going to bother you could probably buy a non-K chip or an Ivy/Sandy Bridge to save money (that would require changing the motherboard obviously).
Are you going to actually write Blu-Ray discs?
Are you doing video or photo editing? 8GB RAM is more than enough for gaming.
Do you need 4TB of space? You could get a far superior Western Digital Caviar Black with less space for a similar amount of money.
So, I've decided to stick to Sandy Bridge and I've just received this baby by UPS today. Should blow every Ivy Bridge/Haswell out of the water once I'm done OCing. It's the i7 3970X Extreme Edition. If Ivy Bridge releases it's own version of this I might upgrade for that. I'm thinking I can push this thing to to 4.8GHz stable if I'm lucky.
My question is about cooling. I've been using the Hydro H110 to OC my old 2600K to 4.5GHz. Should I keep using that for this six-core processor or should I go with the:
Noctua NH-D14 SE2011
or
Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK
Both are air coolers, but are absolute beasts. So I'm not sure if I should stick with the Hydro 110 or just go with air cooling. Which are my only crazy OCing options outside of closed case water cooling.
Also received this along with my new CPU I ordered together. So now I'm finally up to 32GBDDR3 RAM.
Final system specs together are:
Antec Twelve Hundred V3 Full Tower Case
Corei7 3970X Extreme Edition Six-Core (cooler being determined)
ASUS P9X79-E WS LGA 2011 Motherboard (recently upgraded to this)
32GB of G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series (I only buy G.Skill memory!)
SLI EVGA GTX Titans (I only buy EVGA!)
1050watt Seasonic PSU
3x 2TB 7200rpm HDD's
1 3.5 TB HDD
2 250GB SSD's
LG Blu-Ray Rewriter
Tons of 120mm LED fans all over the place
190cfm monster fan at my back exhaust (my rig is very loud)
Monitor: ASUS VG248QE 144Hz 1ms response time 24' (sort of a downgrade in size from my previous 27' Samsung) but worth it. Might go bigger in the future when the prices come down. Or maybe three 27' borderless monitors for a triple setup. Who knows, right now I'm stuck with the Asus.
My question is about cooling. I've been using the Hydro H110 to OC my old 2600K to 4.5GHz. Should I keep using that for this six-core processor or should I go with the:
Noctua NH-D14 SE2011
or
Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK
Both are air coolers, but are absolute beasts. So I'm not sure if I should stick with the Hydro 110 or just go with air cooling. Which are my only crazy OCing options outside of closed case water cooling.
Also received this along with my new CPU I ordered together. So now I'm finally up to 32GBDDR3 RAM.
Final system specs together are:
Antec Twelve Hundred V3 Full Tower Case
Corei7 3970X Extreme Edition Six-Core (cooler being determined)
ASUS P9X79-E WS LGA 2011 Motherboard (recently upgraded to this)
32GB of G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series (I only buy G.Skill memory!)
SLI EVGA GTX Titans (I only buy EVGA!)
1050watt Seasonic PSU
3x 2TB 7200rpm HDD's
1 3.5 TB HDD
2 250GB SSD's
LG Blu-Ray Rewriter
Tons of 120mm LED fans all over the place
190cfm monster fan at my back exhaust (my rig is very loud)
Monitor: ASUS VG248QE 144Hz 1ms response time 24' (sort of a downgrade in size from my previous 27' Samsung) but worth it. Might go bigger in the future when the prices come down. Or maybe three 27' borderless monitors for a triple setup. Who knows, right now I'm stuck with the Asus.
Good catch on the BR burner.
Everything else I can justify in my head, although the regular 840 240GB is a great value purchase. Haswell Z87 boards are nice and it's a nifty ITX board.
It looks like a long term base to work with, but money certainly be cut if need be.
I don't know why would would downgrade from an H110 to air unless you wanted looks or something quieter.
I've just heard that in some cases with certain CPU's top tier air coolers can easily beat water coolers when it comes to stability in overclocking. Also seen benches where those two air coolers slightly beat the H110 in temps, in gaming benchmarks.
On a off note to anyone building a new PC, ALWAYS USE Shin-Etsu thermal paste, best paste there is hands down. No burn in time either. Link here. Only 6 bucks too.
I'm dubious of 'easily'. Under some lighter loads you may get very slightly better temps.
Since you already have an H110 it offers scaling of different fans if you ever do need to go cooler for whatever reason.
I did a lot of research before moving to my Kraken X60 from a TPC 812 (Which was a side-grade from a TRUE 120). In some cases the Phantek or D14 was competitive, in others a CLC was the winner. I was pleasantly surprised by air doing so well tbh.
Still since you have an H110 I'd say stick with it. If you filter from some reviews that use and OC'd Intel 3930K/Hexacore I'd imagine they'd lean towards the CLC.
The problem is you have to view the testing methodology for each review (Open bench or case? Delta or Max Temp? Average or highest? What load program? What CPU? What OC? What voltage? What fans?
Each of those things are usually different or not listed in a cooling review so you have to dig though a ton of them to figure out something. Blehhhhhhh
This was my driving force from moving from a TPC812 2 weeks ago FWIW:
Stupidly hot under P95_64 Small FFT.
SP120 / TPC812 Fan (CM Fan better by 3C)
Contact Testing
End Results:
I went from a 4.6Ghz 2600K at 1.37C that loaded at 92C with Small FFT on a TPC 812 (stock fan ~2000RPM) to a Kraken X60 with stock fans (~1200 RPM, higher gives marginal benefits) that loads at ~80C. From all the reviews I read this temperature drop was consistent from going from a top end air to the top end CLC (X60/H110). So it turns out the TPC 812 isn't shit, my chip is just stupidly hot. Yay. Maybe I have the only TIM Sandy.
Alright then, thanks man. I'll just stick with the H110 for now. No reason to increase my credit card debt any further.
Roland1979
Junior Member
Drawing up the list for my intended build again.
(Australian)
Is there anything obviously missing or wrong with this build? I'm recycling my 560ti for video card duties, so I have not included a GPU in the build (will buy next year).
A PSU is missing, if you're not recycling that as well.
LossLess009
Member
the SG08 is already packed with one.
Roland1979
Junior Member
Comes with the case? Are they generally good, if they include a PSU with a case?
LossLess009
Member
Depends on the case, I've seen cases that come with no-name 480watt PSU's. So in general, the better the case the better the PSU might be. I personally use nothing but Antec or Seasonic for my PSU's.
Roland1979
Junior Member
I decided to go with the Sea Sonic X-650 v2. It there a better model for that kind of money?
I mean you can get better and better but it's bordering the limit I want to spend on a PSU.
The Seasonic X-series is one of the best PSU on the market.
Roland1979
Junior Member
Thnx, then I'll stick with ti. Think it was around Euro 130,- here. However in Euroland we always include TAX in the amounts.
Still, a bit expensive. But if you spend a lot you might as well spend it all.
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