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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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kennah

Member
Early reports say that Haswell is better for emulation. Also some of the ITX motherboards are bad ass. So it would be worth a look.
 

peakish

Member
Early reports say that Haswell is better for emulation. Also some of the ITX motherboards are bad ass. So it would be worth a look.
Humm, this is a good point. I assumed a Haswell setup would be a bit more expensive, but checking the prices I'd actually come out a few dollars ahead by switching to a 4670k + ASRock Z87E-ITX mITX (which the Noctua cooler also fits, with the same extra backplate).

As I understand it Haswell overclocks a bit worse than Ivy Bridge - I'm not really interested in overclocking heavily, I value a quiet rig more than a fast, so I wouldn't do too much of that. I guess that this would be a small step up for me?
 

asdad123

Member
So I'm returning the 670FTW I bought for my brother today. Microcenter is running 25% off clearance now instead of 20% so I'm exchanging it for a MSI twinforzer III GTX680 for only $7 more. It also has the possibility of a $15 rebate so it might end up being cheaper than the 670 lol.

So a gtx680 for $277 total a good deal?

I might also pick up a fully loaded RMBP for myself for only $1800. This is the one with the 768gb ssd and 16gb ram that retails for $3200 o_O. I don't think I can pass that kind of a discount.

Edit: they have a Titan for $675 after dicount.. Fuuuuu. Why you tempt me microcenter?!
 
For best value what should I get between a 7970, 660, 670, and 680?

I'm wanting the GPU to last me a couple of years at least and I'm a 1080p guy about to build his first computer.
 

kennah

Member
For best value what should I get between a 7970, 660, 670, and 680?

I'm wanting the GPU to last me a couple of years at least and I'm a 1080p guy about to build his first computer.
760 is best value in that class.

Or used 680 for around $300 if you can.
 

Addnan

Member
For best value what should I get between a 7970, 660, 670, and 680?

I'm wanting the GPU to last me a couple of years at least and I'm a 1080p guy about to build his first computer.
Whats your budget?

The 770 and 7970 are very closely matched in the $400 range can't go wrong with either, the 760 is great for $250.
 

AndyBNV

Nvidia
So I'm returning the 670FTW I bought for my brother today. Microcenter is running 25% off clearance now instead of 20% so I'm exchanging it for a MSI twinforzer III GTX680 for only $7 more. It also has the possibility of a $15 rebate so it might end up being cheaper than the 670 lol.

So a gtx680 for $277 total a good deal?

I might also pick up a fully loaded RMBP for myself for only $1800. This is the one with the 768gb ssd and 16gb ram that retails for $3200 o_O. I don't think I can pass that kind of a discount.

Edit: they have a Titan for $675 after dicount.. Fuuuuu. Why you tempt me microcenter?!

A new 680 for $277? That's an incredible deal.
 

Osiris

I permanently banned my 6 year old daughter from using the PS4 for mistakenly sending grief reports as it's too hard to watch or talk to her
So, just spoke to the bank and have been told the money for my build should be available at midnight :D, so planning is done now just waiting to hit the order button on the following:

Case: Fractal Design Define R4
CPU: Intel i7-4770K Haswell
Mobo: Asus Maximus VI Hero
RAM: Corsair 8GB (2x4GB) Low Profile CL9 1600Mhz DDR3
GPU: MSI Twin Frozr 2GB GTX 760
Cooler: Corsair Hydro H90 CLC.
DVD: Samsung 24x DVD-RW
SSD: SanDisk 120GB Extreme II
HDD: 1 TB Western Digital Blue
PSU: Corsair TX650 v2
Fans: 2 x Noctua NF-A14 PWM

Total including discounts gets me the all of the above for £1109.62.

Should be building by the weekend :D

Oh, and ordered a 75mm tabletop vice for obvious reasons :p
 
CPU: AMD FX-8150 8 Core 3.6ghz
Motherboard: Asus Crosshair V Republic of Gamers
RAM: Corsair Dominator GT 8gb
Video Card: MSI 7970 3gb
HDD1: OCZ Agility 3 120gb SSD
HDD2: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1tb 7200rpm
Case: COOLER MASTER HAF X RC-942-KKN1
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower 1000W

This setup is on sale for a grand, will it least me a couple of years/does it seem like good value?
 

mkenyon

Banned
So, just spoke to the bank and have been told the money for my build should be available at midnight :D, so planning is done now just waiting to hit the order button on the following:

Case: Fractal Design Define R4
CPU: Intel i7-4770K Haswell
Mobo: Asus Maximus VI Hero
RAM: Corsair 8GB (2x4GB) Low Profile CL9 1600Mhz DDR3
GPU: MSI Twin Frozr 2GB GTX 760
Cooler: Corsair Hydro H90 CLC.
DVD: Samsung 24x DVD-RW
SSD: SanDisk 120GB Extreme II
HDD: 1 TB Western Digital Blue
PSU: Corsair TX650 v2
Fans: 2 x Noctua NF-A14 PWM

Total including discounts gets me the all of the above for £1109.62.

Should be building by the weekend :D

Oh, and ordered a 75mm tabletop vice for obvious reasons :p
Looks good, but I am curious as to what drew you to the Hero over similar priced or lower priced boards.
CPU: AMD FX-8150 8 Core 3.6ghz
Motherboard: Asus Crosshair V Republic of Gamers
RAM: Corsair Dominator GT 8gb
Video Card: MSI 7970 3gb
HDD1: OCZ Agility 3 120gb SSD
HDD2: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1tb 7200rpm
Case: COOLER MASTER HAF X RC-942-KKN1
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower 1000W

This setup is on sale for a grand, will it least me a couple of years/does it seem like good value?
No. That's a ripoff.
 

Osiris

I permanently banned my 6 year old daughter from using the PS4 for mistakenly sending grief reports as it's too hard to watch or talk to her
Looks good, but I am curious as to what drew you to the Hero over similar priced or lower priced boards.

A substantial negotiated discount that offered the board at under £130 as part of a package. :D
 

duppolo

Member
processore haswell I5 4570K
ali XFX 650w
Case Midi Tower Enermax Ostrog Nero USB3
Scheda Madre Asus Z87-K Socket 1150 Intel Z87 DDR3 SATA3 USB3 ATX
Dissipatore CPU Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 CO Socket Intel 775/1155/1156/1366 Amd 754/939/AM2/AM3/FM1
sapphire radeon 7970 vapor ghz edition
RAM DDR3 Corsair Vengeance Blue Low Profile CML8GX3M2A1600C9B 1600MHz 8GB (2x4GB) CL9
Hard Disk Interno Seagate 1TB 3.5" 7200rpm 64MB SATA3
SSD Samsung 840 UltraSlim Series 120GB Lettura 530MB/s Scrittura 130MB/s SATA3
Masterizzatore Interno LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD 24x Sata Nero bulk
windows 8

should i be ok for 3-4 years and then ok for 1-2 years, after ill update the gpu?
 

Addnan

Member
processore haswell I5 4570K
ali XFX 650w
Case Midi Tower Enermax Ostrog Nero USB3
Scheda Madre Asus Z87-K Socket 1150 Intel Z87 DDR3 SATA3 USB3 ATX
Dissipatore CPU Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 CO Socket Intel 775/1155/1156/1366 Amd 754/939/AM2/AM3/FM1
sapphire radeon 7970 vapor ghz edition
RAM DDR3 Corsair Vengeance Blue Low Profile CML8GX3M2A1600C9B 1600MHz 8GB (2x4GB) CL9
Hard Disk Interno Seagate 1TB 3.5" 7200rpm 64MB SATA3
SSD Samsung 840 UltraSlim Series 120GB Lettura 530MB/s Scrittura 130MB/s SATA3
Masterizzatore Interno LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD 24x Sata Nero bulk
windows 8

should i be ok for 3-4 years and then ok for 1-2 years, after ill update the gpu?
Is that a 4670K or a 4570? Because there is no 4570K.

If it is a 4670K then yeah its a very good PC. Should last you a while. No way of knowing if it will last 5 years, but that will depend on what you find acceptable.
 
62C load under OCCT at stock is just dumb. OCCT defaults to large FFT which is not that demanding as far as stress testing goes.
JaZCPqS.jpg

Small FFT

27C ambient temp.

I'm very happy with these temps.
 
Hi there, PC GAF folk.

After a 15(!) year break, I decided it's time to get back into PC construction and gaming. I'm way past my prime, so I've been doing some serious lurking around this thread. I'm trying my best to catch up, but man...I have a lot of work ahead of me. This past weekend (using the outstanding guide in the OP), I sat down with a friend and went through PCPartPicker to design my rig. I came up with this:

CPU Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core
Motherboard Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155
Memory G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600
Storage Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" SSD
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM
Case BitFenix Shinobi XL (Black) ATX Full Tower
PowerSupply Corsair 750W ATX12V / EPS12V
Optical Drive LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Graphics GTX570 x2

I know the odd item that stands out are the two 570 cards. They are still in the box, and a gift from a friend. For now, I'll take free. That being said, any thoughts for me? Also, is there any reason to get an external heatsink? I feel pretty lost right now and would be thankful for any feedback!
 

Addnan

Member
Hi there, PC GAF folk.

After a 15(!) year break, I decided it's time to get back into PC construction and gaming. I'm way past my prime, so I've been doing some serious lurking around this thread. I'm trying my best to catch up, but man...I have a lot of work ahead of me. This past weekend (using the outstanding guide in the OP), I sat down with a friend and went through PCPartPicker to design my rig. I came up with this:

CPU Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core
Motherboard Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155
Memory G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600
Storage Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" SSD
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM
Case BitFenix Shinobi XL (Black) ATX Full Tower
PowerSupply Corsair 750W ATX12V / EPS12V
Optical Drive LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Graphics GTX570 x2

I know the odd item that stands out are the two 570 cards. They are still in the box, and a gift from a friend. For now, I'll take free. That being said, any thoughts for me? Also, is there any reason to get an external heatsink? I feel pretty lost right now and would be thankful for any feedback!
Change the case to something smaller. A Define R4 would be a good choice.

Since you are buying a 3570K you should buy the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO heatsink. It will allow you to overclock you processor and gain free performance. Its only around $20 and its well worth it.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Hi there, PC GAF folk.

After a 15(!) year break, I decided it's time to get back into PC construction and gaming. I'm way past my prime, so I've been doing some serious lurking around this thread. I'm trying my best to catch up, but man...I have a lot of work ahead of me. This past weekend (using the outstanding guide in the OP), I sat down with a friend and went through PCPartPicker to design my rig. I came up with this:

CPU Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core
Motherboard Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155
Memory G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600
Storage Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" SSD
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM
Case BitFenix Shinobi XL (Black) ATX Full Tower
PowerSupply Corsair 750W ATX12V / EPS12V
Optical Drive LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Graphics GTX570 x2

I know the odd item that stands out are the two 570 cards. They are still in the box, and a gift from a friend. For now, I'll take free. That being said, any thoughts for me? Also, is there any reason to get an external heatsink? I feel pretty lost right now and would be thankful for any feedback!
Change the case to something smaller. A Define R4 would be a good choice.
As someone who owned and loved his Shinobi XL, I agree with part of this.

However, with two 570s in there you are going to want some serious cooling potential. These are Fermi cards that are seriously power hungry.

Do you know if they are reference designed, or do they have custom coolers on them?

Initial suggestion is towards an Arc Midi R2 with replacement fans such as Arctic Cooling F12 or Cougar Vortex.
 
Change the case to something smaller. A Define R4 would be a good choice.

Oh, ok...I was staying away from the mid-tower. I didn't know if it was wise to go with a smaller case with my setup.

Since you are buying a 3570K you should buy the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO heatsink. It will allow you to overclock you processor and gain free performance. Its only around $20 and its well worth it.

Good to know. I was considering a heatsink for peace of mind. And really, what's $20 in the scheme of things. Thanks!


EDIT:

As someone who owned and loved his Shinobi XL, I agree with part of this.

However, with two 570s in there you are going to want some serious cooling potential. These are Fermi cards that are seriously power hungry.

Do you know if they are reference designed, or do they have custom coolers on them?

Initial suggestion is towards an Arc Midi R2 with replacement fans such as Arctic Cooling F12 or Cougar Vortex.

I'll have to ask my friend on that one. Good to know about the massive power cravings of the 570s.
 

Migu

Member
Bit of a noob question here...
I'm slowly gathering all the parts for my next build, to replace my 10y-old pc. I am however undecided whether to go for a new PSU or not. My current one is a Fortron 500W (>5 years old but never had a problem with it). I plan to setup a i3570K with GTX 760 so I figure 500W should do, but perhaps I'm a bit too close to the limit?

One reason why I'd stay with my current PSU is that I wish to keep my current case (Coolermaster Wavemaster). It has the PSU slot on top, as opposed to all those new cases with PSU on the bottom. So here's my question: are those new PSU's reversible? Meaning I could just install one upside down? Or am I looking at problems with screw placement etc.?
 

knitoe

Member
Bit of a noob question here...
I'm slowly gathering all the parts for my next build, to replace my 10y-old pc. I am however undecided whether to go for a new PSU or not. My current one is a Fortron 500W (>5 years old but never had a problem with it). I plan to setup a i3570K with GTX 760 so I figure 500W should do, but perhaps I'm a bit too close to the limit?

One reason why I'd stay with my current PSU is that I wish to keep my current case (Coolermaster Wavemaster). It has the PSU slot on top, as opposed to all those new cases with PSU on the bottom. So here's my question: are those new PSU's reversible? Meaning I could just install one upside down? Or am I looking at problems with screw placement etc.?
I would get a new PSU. Never heard of that brand so not sure of quality / power rating and PSU do degrade overtime. What was once a 500W could now be 400W after 5 years.

PSU design haven't change for about a decade. The difference between top vs bottom is just their placement. Nothing else changed. You could install them with fan facing up, but it's better with fan facing down top or bottom of the computer case. Only exception is if the PSU sitting at the bottom and the computer case doesn't have bottom holes for fresh air.
 

GK86

Homeland Security Fail
Need help. My PC won't turn on at all. Whenever I hit the on button, everything turns on for a quick second and then shuts down. I know its probably the PSU, but is there anything else that it could be that I might be able to try?

I don't have another PSU to try and plug in. I have cleaned the inside a bit thinking it might be dust/whatever clogging up the fans/airflow.

Any help would be much appreciative.

Edit- If it helps, mid range rig. Put together last fall. PSU is a seasonic x-650.
 

Mutagenic

Permanent Junior Member
Thoughts on this build? I'm open to suggestions. I won't be overclocking. Also, why does the OP recommend 2x4 chips instead of 1x8?

Intel Core i5-4670 Haswell 3.4GHz LGA 1150 84W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX80646I54670

GIGABYTE GA-G1.Sniper M5 LGA 1150 Intel Z87 SATA 6Gb/s uATX Intel Motherboard

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL10S-8GBXL

EVGA 04G-P4-2766-KR GeForce GTX 760 4GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 SLI Support Video Card

SAMSUNG 840 Series MZ-7TD120BW 2.5" 120GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

EDIT: Just realized my mobo is a micro, crap.
EDIT: I just realized my mobo was a micro, crap.
Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - OEM

Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl w/ USB 3.0 ATX Mid Tower Silent PC Computer Case

SeaSonic M12II 620 Bronze 620W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
 

mkenyon

Banned
Need help. My PC won't turn on at all. Whenever I hit the on button, everything turns on for a quick second and then shuts down. I know its probably the PSU, but is there anything else that it could be that I might be able to try?

I don't have another PSU to try and plug in. I have cleaned the inside a bit thinking it might be dust/whatever clogging up the fans/airflow.

Any help would be much appreciative.

Edit- If it helps, mid range rig. Put together last fall. PSU is a seasonic x-650.
First make sure there isn't some random part that is shorting it. Then make sure that all of your cables are indeed secure. Pull each one all the way out, and then plug it back in. Last, try booting with one stick of RAM, then just the other one, then change up the slot it is in.

If all of those failed, trying a new PSU would be your next bet.

Any recent changes?
Thoughts on this build? I'm open to suggestions. I won't be overclocking. Also, why does the OP recommend 2x4 chips instead of 1x8?

Intel Core i5-4670 Haswell 3.4GHz LGA 1150 84W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX80646I54670

GIGABYTE GA-G1.Sniper M5 LGA 1150 Intel Z87 SATA 6Gb/s uATX Intel Motherboard

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL10S-8GBXL

EVGA 04G-P4-2766-KR GeForce GTX 760 4GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 SLI Support Video Card

SAMSUNG 840 Series MZ-7TD120BW 2.5" 120GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

EDIT: I just realized my mobo was a micro, crap.
Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - OEM

Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl w/ USB 3.0 ATX Mid Tower Silent PC Computer Case

SeaSonic M12II 620 Bronze 620W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
1) Nothing wrong with mATX. Unless you want tri-sli, there's no reason to get a full sized ATX.

2) If you aren't going to overclock, get an H87 board that is a lot cheaper.

3) You really should overclock though. Change one setting in BIOS for a 4.0GHz OC. That's increased linear performance for no negative side effect other than a bit more heat.
 

Mutagenic

Permanent Junior Member
First make sure there isn't some random part that is shorting it. Then make sure that all of your cables are indeed secure. Pull each one all the way out, and then plug it back in. Last, try booting with one stick of RAM, then just the other one, then change up the slot it is in.

If all of those failed, trying a new PSU would be your next bet.

Any recent changes?

1) Nothing wrong with mATX. Unless you want tri-sli, there's no reason to get a full sized ATX.

2) If you aren't going to overclock, get an H87 board that is a lot cheaper.

3) You really should overclock though. Change one setting in BIOS for a 4.0GHz OC. That's increased linear performance for no negative side effect other than a bit more heat.

As dumb as this sounds, I had problems installing paste during my last build 10 years ago and am hesitant about installing heatsinks.
 

GK86

Homeland Security Fail
First make sure there isn't some random part that is shorting it. Then make sure that all of your cables are indeed secure. Pull each one all the way out, and then plug it back in. Last, try booting with one stick of RAM, then just the other one, then change up the slot it is in.

If all of those failed, trying a new PSU would be your next bet.

Any recent changes?

Thank you. Looks like a random part was shorting it. Pulled out everything and replugged them, and it worked fine.
 

Mutagenic

Permanent Junior Member
It's easy as pie.

To keep it easy, just put a little pea sized drop in the middle. Let the heatsink do the rest.

You could also go with one of the Corsair AIO coolers that have TIM pre-applied. The H60 is $50 on NCIX right now.

http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=77377&vpn=CW-9060007-WW&manufacture=Corsair&promoid=1316

Maybe I'll hit up the CM Hyper 212 Evo, although people seem to think it's not geared towards serious OC and is a bear to install. If I do OC, that means a K CPU and Z board, yes?
 
You really going to thumb your nose at 3 degrees?

Stock vs 700MHz overclock? I'm sorry but if I pay close to a hundred bucks for a cooler it better be doing better than 35 degrees above ambient at stock. It better be doing 35 above ambient with a hefty overclock.
 
Maybe I'll hit up the CM Hyper 212 Evo, although people seem to think it's not geared towards serious OC and is a bear to install. If I do OC, that means a K CPU and Z board, yes?

Yes. The Evo isn't that big a pig to install. If you have the mobo window cut out of your case it takes it from an hour long install to a 20 minute install. Just pay attention to the orientation and all of the notches and it will go much, much smoother.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Stock vs 700MHz overclock? I'm sorry but if I pay close to a hundred bucks for a cooler it better be doing better than 35 degrees above ambient at stock. It better be doing 35 above ambient with a hefty overclock.
It's Haswell.

Temps are a lottery on how shitty the internal TIM and gap is.

His cooler is also silent. H80i fans not as much. He might even be running the 7V inline adapters.
Maybe I'll hit up the CM Hyper 212 Evo, although people seem to think it's not geared towards serious OC and is a bear to install. If I do OC, that means a K CPU and Z board, yes?
212 Evo is great. Haswell can't sustain serious OC's anyway. See above.

Yes and yes to K and Z.
Is there a best 760 to get? I'm thinking of ordering this one http://www.ebuyer.com/520368-kfa2-g...-dual-dvi-hdmi-displayport-pci-e-76xph6dv6kkz due to cheaper price compared to some of the others and a glowing review on this KFA2 card.

The others are here http://www.ebuyer.com/search?q=gtx+760
I'd go for the KFA2 or Palit Jetstream. I'd assume those run the coolest/quietest.
 

bro1

Banned
Yes. The Evo isn't that big a pig to install. If you have the mobo window cut out of your case it takes it from an hour long install to a 20 minute install. Just pay attention to the orientation and all of the notches and it will go much, much smoother.

This. I was nervous as shit and then I watched some youtube videos. Did the install in 20 minutes. Since then, I've replaced the thermal paste and did the install in no time flat.

Also, thermal paste. PEA size is to big. If it looks like a glob, it's too big. go small.
 

Mutagenic

Permanent Junior Member
It seems like it'd be easy to tell if you put too much on, but I'm worried about not applying enough. Also, is the paste that comes with the Evo good enough?
 

mkenyon

Banned
It seems like it'd be easy to tell if you put too much on, but I'm worried about not applying enough. Also, is the paste that comes with the Evo good enough?
Yes, and don't worry too much about that. It's there to fill in the gaps, not to be a solid contact.
 

Mutagenic

Permanent Junior Member
This is the motherboard I chose. Decent?

MSI Z87-G43 LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX High Performance CF Gaming Intel Motherboard

What would be a good solution on newegg for 16GB low-profile memory? I'd like something fairly good.
 

Mutagenic

Permanent Junior Member
Nevermind, going with the MSI Z87 MPOWER like the OP suggests. All I need is a RAM suggestion and I'm ordering. 4x4 or 2x8? Newegg recommendation link?
 
I'm eagerly awaiting my new GTX 760 to arrive Wednesday but in the meantime what is the protocol for switching GPUs from AMD to Nvidia? Should I be trying to wipe any trace of AMD drivers and software off of my PC before installing the 760?
 
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