They have a really helpful and supportive PR person that responds to almost all questions over at XtremeSystems - http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?315-Lian-Li-Product-Support&I've looked everywhere for the release date, but could not find anything. So I e-mail Lian Li, lol
http://youtu.be/qli9EjIpdJQ
I have a question.
So, when I build my PC, I'll need to install Windows 7 from a USB. So I downloaded the ISO, and also the "Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool" to I can create a bootable ISO. However, the Download Tool is an exe file, and I'm currently using a Macbook. Does anyone know a way to put a bootable version of Windows 7 on a USB using a Mac?
I have a question.
So, when I build my PC, I'll need to install Windows 7 from a USB. So I downloaded the ISO, and also the "Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool" to I can create a bootable ISO. However, the Download Tool is an exe file, and I'm currently using a Macbook. Does anyone know a way to put a bootable version of Windows 7 on a USB using a Mac?
For Lenovo, methinks GTX760 will underserve the i7. For your partpicker, K CPUs with H97 mobo is a waste.
That's a rather weird question - you want to play games on it so you need GPU now. And besides nearest rumored launch is november so that's 4 months.
And as for question not really - it's simplest upgrade you can make - you just remove slot protectors from rear of case, drop gpu into pci-express slot and connect cables from psu.
Metro 2033 is still a system hog, correct? Very High @ 1080p is dipping down to 25 FPS at times on my i-2500k/760gtx.
Can someone weigh in on this laptop for me?
Dell Inspiron 15:
- Intel® Celeron® Dual Core N2830 Processor
- Windows(R) 8.1 with Bing, English
- 4GB Single Channel DDR3 1600MHz (4GBx1)
- 500GB 5400 rpm SATA Hard Drive
- 15.6 inch LED Backlit Display with Truelife and HD resolution (1366 x 768)
- HDMITM 1.4a, USB 2.0 (2), Security slot, 4-in-1 Media Card (SD/SDHC/MS/MS Pro)
My friend has an old Compaq Presario CQ60-300EV with a broken power button, broken speakers, broken battery, and constantly overheats. She's been toying with the idea of a new laptop, and currently the Dell can be had for about £165.
Now, the Dell is obviously better than hers (physical faults aside) with double the RAM, a much newer processor, more HDD space. However, my trouble with tech help is I can't come at a problem without looking through the eyes of someone who plays games.
I've already told her not to expect to run games on it, and possibly even HD movies, but what's the general consensus on the specs vs. price? Obviously you get what you pay for.
I need some decent quiet 120mm fans for a H80i, ive made a decision to stop overclocking cause frankly its not worth it on 8350FX currently for me cause i've don't some testing and the games I play run at the same speed regardless of if its a @4.0 or 4.8. I typically lock my games at 60 and anything above is pointless so I might as well drop my power usage.
Ok... my RAM situation is making me a little crazy right
now.
I ordered 16gb (2x8) of RAM from Amazon Warehouse Deals.
When it arrives I install it and the BIOS tells me I have 8gb of RAM (2 sticks of 4gb, specifically).
I say WTF and register a complaint with Amazon.
Amazon, to their credit, immediately sends me a package containing 16gb (2x8) of RAM free of charge.
This morning I switch out the old RAM for the new RAM.
AGAIN the BIOS tells me I am packing 8gb (2 sticks of 4gb). WAT THE SHIT.
For my sanity's sake I put ALL FOUR sticks of RAM into my motherboard. THIS, the BIOS tells me, equals 16gb of RAM.
Did Amazon REALLY send me 8gb instead of 16gb TWICE? Do I not know how to correctly install DDR3 RAM? I'm a bit hungover and packing for a camping trip and this is just tweaking me out...
Can you post pictures of the actual sticks?
Oh and link us to the product page.
Stick is a 4gig 1600 stick. The "8g kit of 2" means two four gig sticks.
Stick is a 4gig 1600 stick. The "8g kit of 2" means two four gig sticks.
Website says it should be 1833 2x8.
They sent you the wrong stuff twice. Raise some hell.
Soo... realtemp is saying my mate's CPU is idling at 30-something degrees and hitting 100 degrees on load...
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Do you reckon the heatsink isn't seated properly? Or are the numbers just not accurate?
If that's the case it's somewhat embarrassing, as I fitted it. It's the stock cooler, seemed to lock down fine with some solid clicks... :/I would be inclined to think the heatsink isn't on right.
Those are pretty normal numbers for the stock cooler.If that's the case it's somewhat embarrassing, as I fitted it. It's the stock cooler, seemed to lock down fine with some solid clicks... :/
Oh. So not something to be overly concerned about?Those are pretty normal numbers for the stock cooler.
They have a really helpful and supportive PR person that responds to almost all questions over at XtremeSystems - http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?315-Lian-Li-Product-Support&
Oh. So not something to be overly concerned about?
It's a 4790K also, at the stock 4GHz.I don't know what CPU those temps are from, but my 4790k hits 70c under load using Aida64 stress test (I keep the IGP turned off in the BIOS), and that's with an NH-D14. Unless your friend is going to be running video encodes 24/7 it's probably not a huge deal since your idle temps don't seem bad for the cooler.
Of course, it only takes like ten minutes to remove, clean the heatsink and cpu, and reapply thermal compound and reseat the heatsink if it would make you feel better to try and get a better seat.
Soo... realtemp is saying my mate's CPU is idling at 30-something degrees and hitting 100 degrees on load...
![]()
Do you reckon the heatsink isn't seated properly? Or are the numbers just not accurate?
The idling temp isn't the problem... it's the 100 degrees on load that is alarming...My i5 2500K also idles at 33-36 degrees. CPU cooler is a Scythe Mugen 2. I shouldn't be worried though?
Soo... realtemp is saying my mate's CPU is idling at 30-something degrees and hitting 100 degrees on load...
![]()
Do you reckon the heatsink isn't seated properly? Or are the numbers just not accurate?
Interesting. I can't check all this stuff myself as my friend lives miles away, but I'll see if he can reseat it. Everything is stock, it's a Gigabyte Z97 mobo and no changes were made to the BIOS... so the vcore should be fine right?Try re-seating, also check your vcore incase it is pumping extra through it when it is not needed, I manually set my vcore to avoid such issues.
They are hot, but no way should it be getting that hot, when I first installed mine it would hit 95c after a couple of hours of prime95, I re-seated and got it down to 89c, that was running at stock speed but manually setting vcore to 1.13v, Both instances were using a scythe shuriken low profile air cooler.
In the end I decided to get a H100i and it now hits 60c after a few hours of Prime.
Interesting. I can't check all this stuff myself as my friend lives miles away, but I'll see if he can reseat it. Everything is stock, it's a Gigabyte Z97 mobo and no changes were made to the BIOS... so the vcore should be fine right?
Nice!Lian Li got back to me; Next week it is.
The Gigabyte is faster out of the box, and has a three year warranty based on serial #, which transfers to second hand buyers. The Zotac does not, and requires proof of purchase. So, you'll have a much easier time reselling the Gigabyte.I'm kind of new to this whole "same video card from different companies" thing, so I was wondering...
Is there a difference in quality between this GTX 780 and this GTX 780?
I ask because Best Buy also carries the Zotac one, and I have gift cards at best buy that I would use if I could. But I don't want it if Zotac is a bunk company or something. It also might be worth noting that I am getting a Gigabyte motherboard (either this one or this one), so there may be some benefit to keeping those two components the same brand.
Any advice?
It's a 4790K also, at the stock 4GHz.
Nice!
The Gigabyte is faster out of the box, and has a three year warranty based on serial #, which transfers to second hand buyers. The Zotac does not, and requires proof of purchase. So, you'll have a much easier time reselling the Gigabyte.
There's zero benefit in having the same brand motherboard and GPU though, outside of aesthetics.
One is a Z97, which can overclock. The other is a H87, which can't.Thanks man! One more question, do you know if there is any major differences in the two motherboards I listed? One of them is "Gamer-centric", but that could all be a bunch of bullshit. I'm just trying ti figure out what components I can dump these best buy gift cards on, haha.
Interesting. I can't check all this stuff myself as my friend lives miles away, but I'll see if he can reseat it. Everything is stock, it's a Gigabyte Z97 mobo and no changes were made to the BIOS... so the vcore should be fine right?
1-core : x44
2-core : x44
3-core : x43
4-core : x42
Gotcha. BummerI won't be overclocking. I got a good deal on a regular i7 4790 from a Gaffer, which can't overclock anyway.
The idling temp isn't the problem... it's the 100 degrees on load that is alarming...
Gotcha. Bummer
Grats on the good deal though.