"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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oh, nice! let us know what they say.

edit: oh, and I should've said "little brother." angle threw me off. thought I was looking at the Q36.
 
I have a question.

So, when I build my PC, I'll need to install Windows 7 from a USB. So I downloaded the ISO, and also the "Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool" to I can create a bootable ISO. However, the Download Tool is an exe file, and I'm currently using a Macbook. Does anyone know a way to put a bootable version of Windows 7 on a USB using a Mac?
 
I have a question.

So, when I build my PC, I'll need to install Windows 7 from a USB. So I downloaded the ISO, and also the "Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool" to I can create a bootable ISO. However, the Download Tool is an exe file, and I'm currently using a Macbook. Does anyone know a way to put a bootable version of Windows 7 on a USB using a Mac?

Yes, I think you can use dd and thus can just use https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/USB_Flash_Installation_Media#In_Mac_OS_X but instead of using the Arch ISO you use the Win7 one instead.
(Note that if you fuck up dd you will lose all data on what ever drive you pointed dd to write to by mistake).
 
So guys I just ordered the lg 34um95 and zotac 780ti oc edition (not amp).

The only thing I am unsure about is the 3d card. I have never gotten a zotac before. This was about 150 dollars cheaper so I ordered it. But now I wonder if I should get the EVGA version.
 
I have a question.

So, when I build my PC, I'll need to install Windows 7 from a USB. So I downloaded the ISO, and also the "Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool" to I can create a bootable ISO. However, the Download Tool is an exe file, and I'm currently using a Macbook. Does anyone know a way to put a bootable version of Windows 7 on a USB using a Mac?

Just use BootCamp. It'll make one for you, no problem.
 
I'm not crazy for thinking this isn't too bad of a pre-build am I?

Lenovo Erazer X510

Building a similar machine on Partpicker was around $1450, which I am sure with some hunting and pecking I could lower that, but the Lenovo is prebuilt.

I have always sweated too many bullets when building, and am not comfortable enough to build yet.

I think my budget is between $1000 to $1300, I just don't know if I should wait.

on part picker I went,

CPU; Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
MB; Gigabyte GA-H97-GAMING 3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
RAM; Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory <- I couldn't really pick one, just went with a balanced option
SSD; None Yet, but I will probably get the MX for another $100 for either machine
Storage; Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card; MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card

here is the actual link; My odd ball build cause I don't know what I am doing

Would love any opinions, I searched lenovo in the thread and didn't get a lot of relevant hits
 
I'm not crazy for thinking this isn't too bad of a pre-build am I?

Lenovo Erazer X510
For Lenovo, methinks GTX760 will underserve the i7. For your partpicker, K CPUs with H97 mobo is a waste.

If you hate building, just go with a vendor that assembles for you.

If you're leery of bios OC, just go with non-K i5 with H97, put the extra moolah into better GPU like GTX770 or r9 290.
 
Hello guys! I am looking to build my first PC, based around the $100 Microcenter G3258+z97 mobo combo. Is it better to buy a graphics card now or wait? I'm not really that interested in pc gaming yet, but how hard would it be to install it after the mobo is in the case? Would i have to take everything out to install it? if so, then I will buy it with everything. Looking at the XFX R9 270 as it is really affordable and only a few bucks more than the 750ti but much better performance and I can get two free games through the AMD promotion.

My parts: All bought at Microcenter except 2 red LED fans by Corsair on Amazon
CPU: Pentium G3258 ($60)
Mobo: MSI PC Mate Z97 ($40)
SSD: Crucial MX100 256GB ($110) OR Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM ($50)
Memory: Adata 4GB DDR3-1600 ($36)
PSU: Corsair CX430M ($50)
(VGA: XFX R9 270 Double Dissipation ($170))
Case: Inwin GT1 series ($60)

Should I downgrade to a HDD and put the remainder money towards improving the other parts? Are they at least somewhat silent and is the speed performance somewhat comparable to an SSD? I would like to stay under $550 as I want to buy a monitor as well.
 
That's a rather weird question - you want to play games on it so you need GPU now. And besides nearest rumored launch is november so that's 4 months.

And as for question not really - it's simplest upgrade you can make - you just remove slot protectors from rear of case, drop gpu into pci-express slot and connect cables from psu.
 
That's a rather weird question - you want to play games on it so you need GPU now. And besides nearest rumored launch is november so that's 4 months.

And as for question not really - it's simplest upgrade you can make - you just remove slot protectors from rear of case, drop gpu into pci-express slot and connect cables from psu.

No i said not interested in pc gaming now, but down the line in a few months then yeah.
 
Can someone weigh in on this laptop for me?

Dell Inspiron 15:
  • Intel® Celeron® Dual Core N2830 Processor
  • Windows(R) 8.1 with Bing, English
  • 4GB Single Channel DDR3 1600MHz (4GBx1)
  • 500GB 5400 rpm SATA Hard Drive
  • 15.6 inch LED Backlit Display with Truelife and HD resolution (1366 x 768)
  • HDMITM 1.4a, USB 2.0 (2), Security slot, 4-in-1 Media Card (SD/SDHC/MS/MS Pro)

My friend has an old Compaq Presario CQ60-300EV with a broken power button, broken speakers, broken battery, and constantly overheats. She's been toying with the idea of a new laptop, and currently the Dell can be had for about £165.

Now, the Dell is obviously better than hers (physical faults aside) with double the RAM, a much newer processor, more HDD space. However, my trouble with tech help is I can't come at a problem without looking through the eyes of someone who plays games.

I've already told her not to expect to run games on it, and possibly even HD movies, but what's the general consensus on the specs vs. price? Obviously you get what you pay for.
 
Can someone weigh in on this laptop for me?

Dell Inspiron 15:
  • Intel® Celeron® Dual Core N2830 Processor
  • Windows(R) 8.1 with Bing, English
  • 4GB Single Channel DDR3 1600MHz (4GBx1)
  • 500GB 5400 rpm SATA Hard Drive
  • 15.6 inch LED Backlit Display with Truelife and HD resolution (1366 x 768)
  • HDMITM 1.4a, USB 2.0 (2), Security slot, 4-in-1 Media Card (SD/SDHC/MS/MS Pro)

My friend has an old Compaq Presario CQ60-300EV with a broken power button, broken speakers, broken battery, and constantly overheats. She's been toying with the idea of a new laptop, and currently the Dell can be had for about £165.

Now, the Dell is obviously better than hers (physical faults aside) with double the RAM, a much newer processor, more HDD space. However, my trouble with tech help is I can't come at a problem without looking through the eyes of someone who plays games.

I've already told her not to expect to run games on it, and possibly even HD movies, but what's the general consensus on the specs vs. price? Obviously you get what you pay for.

Is that the same one that's on Hot UK Deals?

There are some comments there that might be useful, or try the GAF gaming laptops thread.
 
I need some decent quiet 120mm fans for a H80i, ive made a decision to stop overclocking cause frankly its not worth it on 8350FX currently for me cause i've don't some testing and the games I play run at the same speed regardless of if its a @4.0 or 4.8. I typically lock my games at 60 and anything above is pointless so I might as well drop my power usage.
 
I need some decent quiet 120mm fans for a H80i, ive made a decision to stop overclocking cause frankly its not worth it on 8350FX currently for me cause i've don't some testing and the games I play run at the same speed regardless of if its a @4.0 or 4.8. I typically lock my games at 60 and anything above is pointless so I might as well drop my power usage.

Are you already running the fans at the lowest rpm either using corsair link or motherboard headers? Running a single fan on the radiator would also help.

Personally I'd sell the H80i and get a Hyper 212 Evo for silence. The H80i will always be louder due to pump noise.
 
On Friday I posted this:

Ok... my RAM situation is making me a little crazy right
now.

I ordered 16gb (2x8) of RAM from Amazon Warehouse Deals.

When it arrives I install it and the BIOS tells me I have 8gb of RAM (2 sticks of 4gb, specifically).

I say WTF and register a complaint with Amazon.

Amazon, to their credit, immediately sends me a package containing 16gb (2x8) of RAM free of charge.

This morning I switch out the old RAM for the new RAM.

AGAIN the BIOS tells me I am packing 8gb (2 sticks of 4gb). WAT THE SHIT.

For my sanity's sake I put ALL FOUR sticks of RAM into my motherboard. THIS, the BIOS tells me, equals 16gb of RAM.

Did Amazon REALLY send me 8gb instead of 16gb TWICE? Do I not know how to correctly install DDR3 RAM? I'm a bit hungover and packing for a camping trip and this is just tweaking me out...

Can you post pictures of the actual sticks?

hl1EhBc.jpg


Oh and link us to the product page.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJO92I0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

So... what gives??
 
What's a reliable AVR brand? PC load peaks to around 350w tops. My cheap UPS is making a funny crackling noise when I turn it on so I unplugged everything. Can't afford APC UPS with enough VA.

Do I need to shoot for 1000w?

Edit:I guess my PC peaks at 350w ish. I3 2100, hd5850, 1 ssd, 2 hdds, 1 dvd drive, 20" lcd
 
Soo... realtemp is saying my mate's CPU is idling at 30-something degrees and hitting 100 degrees on load...

realtempreadings7vk7n.jpg


Do you reckon the heatsink isn't seated properly? Or are the numbers just not accurate?
 
Soo... realtemp is saying my mate's CPU is idling at 30-something degrees and hitting 100 degrees on load...

realtempreadings7vk7n.jpg


Do you reckon the heatsink isn't seated properly? Or are the numbers just not accurate?

I would be inclined to think the heatsink isn't on right.
 
So after purchasing a new MB/CPU/RAM, my GTX 660 Ti is still not coming up. IGFX works though. (i7-4790K / Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H / 16GB 1866Mhz RAM)

SPECULATION: Either my card is dead or the PS is not giving enough power any longer (GS700). I'll bring it to Memory Express (the GTX) to have it tested later today.

Now if it is GTX, what is everyone's thoughts on where to go from here for a new video card? I'm pretty happy with NVidia and I am thinking of a 680. I don't have the time to check out every benchmark today online to see if there is significant gains against the 670 to 680 or what not.

So another question to the community: I'm looking for a video card, $400-$600 range, that will give me the most bang for my buck and at least 3 years longevity. (Its going to need to rock the Witcher 3's socks off)

Cheers folks.
 
Oh. So not something to be overly concerned about?

I don't know what CPU those temps are from, but my 4790k hits about 75c under load (at stock boost) using Aida64 stress test (I keep the IGP turned off in the BIOS), and that's with an NH-D14. Unless your friend is going to be running video encodes 24/7 it's probably not a huge deal since your idle temps don't seem bad for the cooler.

Of course, it only takes like ten minutes to remove, clean the heatsink and cpu, and reapply thermal compound and reseat the heatsink if it would make you feel better to try and get a better seat.
 
I don't know what CPU those temps are from, but my 4790k hits 70c under load using Aida64 stress test (I keep the IGP turned off in the BIOS), and that's with an NH-D14. Unless your friend is going to be running video encodes 24/7 it's probably not a huge deal since your idle temps don't seem bad for the cooler.

Of course, it only takes like ten minutes to remove, clean the heatsink and cpu, and reapply thermal compound and reseat the heatsink if it would make you feel better to try and get a better seat.
It's a 4790K also, at the stock 4GHz.
 
Soo... realtemp is saying my mate's CPU is idling at 30-something degrees and hitting 100 degrees on load...

realtempreadings7vk7n.jpg


Do you reckon the heatsink isn't seated properly? Or are the numbers just not accurate?

My i5 2500K also idles at 33-36 degrees. CPU cooler is a Scythe Mugen 2. I shouldn't be worried though?
 
Soo... realtemp is saying my mate's CPU is idling at 30-something degrees and hitting 100 degrees on load...

realtempreadings7vk7n.jpg


Do you reckon the heatsink isn't seated properly? Or are the numbers just not accurate?

Try re-seating, also check your vcore incase it is pumping extra through it when it is not needed, I manually set my vcore to avoid such issues.

They are hot, but no way should it be getting that hot, when I first installed mine it would hit 95c after a couple of hours of prime95, I re-seated and got it down to 89c, that was running at stock speed but manually setting vcore to 1.13v, Both instances were using a scythe shuriken low profile air cooler.

In the end I decided to get a H100i and it now hits 60c after a few hours of Prime.
 
Try re-seating, also check your vcore incase it is pumping extra through it when it is not needed, I manually set my vcore to avoid such issues.

They are hot, but no way should it be getting that hot, when I first installed mine it would hit 95c after a couple of hours of prime95, I re-seated and got it down to 89c, that was running at stock speed but manually setting vcore to 1.13v, Both instances were using a scythe shuriken low profile air cooler.

In the end I decided to get a H100i and it now hits 60c after a few hours of Prime.
Interesting. I can't check all this stuff myself as my friend lives miles away, but I'll see if he can reseat it. Everything is stock, it's a Gigabyte Z97 mobo and no changes were made to the BIOS... so the vcore should be fine right?
 
Interesting. I can't check all this stuff myself as my friend lives miles away, but I'll see if he can reseat it. Everything is stock, it's a Gigabyte Z97 mobo and no changes were made to the BIOS... so the vcore should be fine right?

If no changes were made to the Bios it will pump what it thinks it needs through the CPU, and some boards on auto push and extra 0.1v through the chip as a voltage offset, manually setting it overrides that.
 
I'm kind of new to this whole "same video card from different companies" thing, so I was wondering...

Is there a difference in quality between this GTX 780 and this GTX 780?

I ask because Best Buy also carries the Zotac one, and I have gift cards at best buy that I would use if I could. But I don't want it if Zotac is a bunk company or something. It also might be worth noting that I am getting a Gigabyte motherboard (either this one or this one), so there may be some benefit to keeping those two components the same brand.

Any advice?
 
Lian Li got back to me; Next week it is.
Nice!

Lately it seems like FrozenCPU and Performance PCs gets new Lian Li cases before Newegg. I think Newegg has scaled back their relationship pretty substantially. You might consider emailing both of them to see if they are going to get stock.

I have a discount code for both places that is 5.5% off, let me know if you end up ordering from them.
I'm kind of new to this whole "same video card from different companies" thing, so I was wondering...

Is there a difference in quality between this GTX 780 and this GTX 780?

I ask because Best Buy also carries the Zotac one, and I have gift cards at best buy that I would use if I could. But I don't want it if Zotac is a bunk company or something. It also might be worth noting that I am getting a Gigabyte motherboard (either this one or this one), so there may be some benefit to keeping those two components the same brand.

Any advice?
The Gigabyte is faster out of the box, and has a three year warranty based on serial #, which transfers to second hand buyers. The Zotac does not, and requires proof of purchase. So, you'll have a much easier time reselling the Gigabyte.

There's zero benefit in having the same brand motherboard and GPU though, outside of aesthetics.
 
Nice!



The Gigabyte is faster out of the box, and has a three year warranty based on serial #, which transfers to second hand buyers. The Zotac does not, and requires proof of purchase. So, you'll have a much easier time reselling the Gigabyte.

There's zero benefit in having the same brand motherboard and GPU though, outside of aesthetics.

Thanks man! One more question, do you know if there is any major differences in the two motherboards I listed? One of them is "Gamer-centric", but that could all be a bunch of bullshit. I'm just trying ti figure out what components I can dump these best buy gift cards on, haha.
 
Thanks man! One more question, do you know if there is any major differences in the two motherboards I listed? One of them is "Gamer-centric", but that could all be a bunch of bullshit. I'm just trying ti figure out what components I can dump these best buy gift cards on, haha.
One is a Z97, which can overclock. The other is a H87, which can't.

Get this one instead.
 
Interesting. I can't check all this stuff myself as my friend lives miles away, but I'll see if he can reseat it. Everything is stock, it's a Gigabyte Z97 mobo and no changes were made to the BIOS... so the vcore should be fine right?

I have a Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H and the board does have a few behavior quirks.

As mentioned, it defaults my vcore to about 1.2-something. I haven't bothered to manually change it since my temps aren't horrible and I'm running stock, but I guess I could.

However, the board doesn't seem to even abide by it's own BIOS setting concerning boost clocks. In the BIOS the boost multipliers are set like so:

Code:
1-core : x44
2-core : x44
3-core : x43
4-core : x42

So, under a stress test with all 4 course at full load I'd expect them all to be running at 4.2GHz, however all four actually are at 4.4GHZ as reported by HWinfo and CPU-Z (well, actually 4.389GHz, but close enough), so I'm not really sure what the board is doing, but I won't complain since I'm getting more boost for my buck with moderate temps.
 
The idling temp isn't the problem... it's the 100 degrees on load that is alarming...

My laptop's CPU hangs out around 100C under load. What's the big deal? It's wonderful for making some grilled cheese or eggs while you're gaming.

/s
 
Gotcha. Bummer :(

Grats on the good deal though.

Do you think the H87 would be a sufficient mobo then? Just for reference, this will act solely as a gaming rig hooked up to a TV, and will be in a smaller case.

If the Z97 will give legitimate benefits, I will grab it, especially since I will be gaming and watching movies almost exclusively.. I just don't want to spend money on things I don't need.
 
How come motherboards that can be overclocked begin with a Z, but CPUs that can be overclocked end with a K? Wouldn't a little consistency be helpful?
 
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