"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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780 gtx ti sli will last 3+ years at 4k

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It can barely do 60 FPS at 4k now, what makes you think it could last 3+ years?
 
It can barely do 60 FPS at 4k now, what makes you think it could last 3+ years?

Whether a 480 can run a game at 1080p60 has nothing to do with whether a 780 Ti can run a game at 4k.

Key word (or words?) "a game". Metro LL isn't just "a game", along with Crysis 3, its one of the most performance intensive games ever made. You're probably right the a pair of 780 ti won't be able to run the most intensive game of 2017 at 4k, but absolutely nothing? Not even at modest settings and 30fps?
 
Once you add in fans and the rest, it's quite a bit more.

But even with just two EK radiators and the D5 pump/res, you're already at $350. No fittings, blocks, or anything.

There's this one that I like too: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...oton_and_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g59c683s2176

I've used bay reservoirs and internal reservoirs, and I'll never go back to the bay res. The internal ones allow you to decouple them by mounting on foam pads and the like to even further reduce noise.

I have a kit like that....love the Pump/Res combo...so pretty (and nearly silent).

I do want to go with an EK CPU block in my next build. The Raystorm performs well, but I don't like the installation procedure. EK installation is thought out much better, you can watch a couple videos and see what I mean.

It does add up over time though. After my initial order of just the kit and better tubing, I ended up not liking the fittings that much and doing a second order and getting monsoon fittings....then I was like "might as well add on a GPU block as long as I am draining everything anyway." Then "naked GPU looks stupid without a backplate, might as well get one of those too. Also needed some LED lights for the case and better fans.

It's worth it because it is totally fun, and my machine looks oh so pretty.
 
780 gtx ti sli will last 3 years at 1080p?

I'm hesitant to say yes because we don't know what vram requirements will be like in 3 years (even at 1080p). It depends on if you want / must have max settings & ultra textures 3 years from now or not. It's best to buy what you can today for your needs now and re-evaluate 3 years from now.
 
Quick question. My 280x should arrive tomorrow and I want to play some "older" games (the Batman series or Witcher 2 for example) my 460 gtx wasn't quite able to handle on high/ultra. Can you guys link me a good faq/guide for downsampling? I really have no clue and the google results are quite overwhelming.
 
Quick question. My 280x should arrive tomorrow and I want to play some "older" games (the Batman series or Witcher 2 for example) my 460 gtx wasn't quite able to handle on high/ultra. Can you guys link me a good faq/guide for downsampling? I really have no clue and the google results are quite overwhelming.

Have you looked at GeDoSaTo? http://blog.metaclassofnil.com/?tag=gedosato there is also a thread here on it...not sure if it is compatible with the games you want to play, but I would check that out.
 
Question on choosing a motherboard. So, the current plan I have is getting a 4790k at Microcenter at $279 and ordering the Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H off of Amazon for $139. But! I noticed Microcenter has some good (I think) CPU/mobo deals. What do you guys think of these compared to what my current plan is?
 
I need a few more days testing, but it looks like I don't have to reinstall WOW or Windows. I think it was an add on that was crashing my Nvidia driver while playing WOW. I had worries that maybe my graphics card got damaged or something in the move from California.

Spoke too soon. I guess the next two things will be uninstalling WOW, then re-installing Windows.
 
Question on choosing a motherboard. So, the current plan I have is getting a 4790k at Microcenter at $279 and ordering the Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H off of Amazon for $139. But! I noticed Microcenter has some good (I think) CPU/mobo deals. What do you guys think of these compared to what my current plan is?
I have the MSI Gaming 5 and really like it. Tbh since that combo saves you $20 over the UD3H, I can't really think of a reason not to go for it.

Actually I forgot it has the Killer NIC which has a driver that can cause crashes in Windows 8. I haven't had any problems with it, hence why I forgot about it at first, but YMMV. You can get rid of the software anyway.
 
They aren't a nono, they are just not very good gaming CPUs. Excellent budget multimedia creation processors though.

They're inferior in every mkenyon... stop trying to be so politically correct. ALL AMD CPUs SHOULD BE TAKEN TO THE BACK ALLEY, SHOT IN THE HEAD, THEN HAVE THEIR SILICON BURIED IN A SHALLOW GRAVE.

...but their GPUs are God-like <3
 
So, this probably like a stupid question for those of you are clearly in the know about PC gaming, but I'm not so much.

In the OP, the build under Good-Very Capable, more or less, would it be a viable machine for gaming currently and a decent amount in the future?
 
I'm planning to get a new SSD for my PC, a 256GB one to replace my current 128GB drive. The current drive is also my primary one, containing the operating system and all that. I've got an external drive, so would it be safe to back up the contents of the drive, change the drive, reinstall windows, then restore the backup from my external drive?
 
So, this probably like a stupid question for those of you are clearly in the know about PC gaming, but I'm not so much.

In the OP, the build under Good-Very Capable, more or less, would it be a viable machine for gaming currently and a decent amount in the future?

I would say with the i5 derivative you'd be capable of decent 1080p gaming for some time.

PC gaming is a personal thing, some just like playing at native resolution and medium settings, others insist on 1080p+ resolutions on ultra at 60fps+. That's when the money goes up and up.
 
I'm hesitant to say yes because we don't know what vram requirements will be like in 3 years (even at 1080p). It depends on if you want / must have max settings & ultra textures 3 years from now or not. It's best to buy what you can today for your needs now and re-evaluate 3 years from now.

Indeed, and this is also why I would caution against SLI and buying overly expensive cards. Just because you have money doesn't mean you need to waste it. At the moment the best advice is to wait for the 800 series. If you must have a card today, then I'd go with the 780, you can sell it back on ebay easily enough without taking a massive hit on it, should you wish to upgrade in the near future, and you'll be ready to go until 20nm gets here, hopefully next year.
 
I would say with the i5 derivative you'd be capable of decent 1080p gaming for some time.

PC gaming is a personal thing, some just like playing at native resolution and medium settings, others insist on 1080p+ resolutions on ultra at 60fps+. That's when the money goes up and up.

Hm, thanks for the reply. I think that option is probably a good bet for me then.
 
Made my new build yesterday,

Case : Corsair Graphite 600T
CPU : Intel i7 4790K
Mobo : Asus Sabertooth Z97 Mark1
Cooler : Corsair H75

and transfered all my other stuff in it : 16GB Corsair Vengeance, HDD and SSD and my SLI ASUS GTX 670.

I essentially went from Ivy Bridge i5 3570K @4,3ghz to Haswell i7 4790K @4,4ghz (for now) and damn does it make a difference. I'm getting 60 fps average on Rome 2 benchmark with max settings, and played a bit of Planetside 2 and while I was dipping to the low 20's I never went down 55fps yesterday, even during huge battles and most of the time hovering around 76fps :o

Haven't tried Watch Dogs yet but imo i7 does matter when it comes to gaming.
 
GAF, me current BIOS version dates from 2008 and I want to update. My Mobo is a GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 and the latest version is F12 (I have version F8). I have never done this before. Can someone give me a quick run down on the best way to do this?

All I know is to download the driver, put that on a USB and then? Go to the BIOS and somehow find the file on my USB and update?
 
Made my new build yesterday,


Case : Corsair Graphite 600T
CPU : Intel i7 4790K
Mobo : Asus Sabertooth Z97 Mark1
Cooler : Corsair H75

and transfered all my other stuff in it : 16GB Corsair Vengeance, HDD and SSD and my SLI ASUS GTX 670.

I essentially went from Ivy Bridge i5 3570K @4,3ghz to Haswell i7 4790K @4,4ghz (for now) and damn does it make a difference. I'm getting 60 fps average on Rome 2 benchmark with max settings, and played a bit of Planetside 2 and while I was dipping to the low 20's I never went down 55fps yesterday, even during huge battles and most of the time hovering around 76fps :o

Haven't tried Watch Dogs yet but imo i7 does matter when it comes to gaming.
What the?

This isn't anything to do with driver or game optimisation since the last time you played? That's pretty crazy if not.
 
GAF, me current BIOS version dates from 2008 and I want to update. My Mobo is a GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 and the latest version is F12 (I have version F8). I have never done this before. Can someone give me a quick run down on the best way to do this?

All I know is to download the driver, put that on a USB and then? Go to the BIOS and somehow find the file on my USB and update?
 
What the?

This isn't anything to do with driver or game optimisation since the last time you played? That's pretty crazy if not.

Nah I kept the same drivers and the same graphic cards, game has never been so fluid. I'm baffled why they never test cpu hungry games like PS2 and put shit like Tomb Raider and Bioshock Infinite in benchmarks.

Basically anytime the fps dips now, it's due my GPU in Planetside 2 and not the CPU anymore.

Edit : and it's been like 1.5 months I haven't played Planetside 2, I cameback to check their optimizations but the game still didn't run in an acceptable way on my rig. In any case, I'm glad I took an i7 instead of i5 this time around.
 
Mainly because load in multiplayer games varies a great deal and makes direct benchmark comparisons difficult.

Glad you're happy with your new setup!
 
I'm considering buying one of those korean 1440p ips monitors, but I'm not sure if it's right for my situation. I'm going to be gaming on a PC powered by a 750ti and with a ps4.

As I understand it, most of these monitors don't have a scaler so the ps4 play would be iffy. And with the power level of the 750ti, playing at 1440p might require too many graphics and frame rate sacrifices.

What do you guys think? Would I be better off with a 1080p monitor?

Any opinions?
 
Nah I kept the same drivers and the same graphic cards, game has never been so fluid. I'm baffled why they never test cpu hungry games like PS2 and put shit like Tomb Raider and Bioshock Infinite in benchmarks.

Basically anytime the fps dips now, it's due my GPU in Planetside 2 and not the CPU anymore.

Edit : and it's been like 1.5 months I haven't played Planetside 2, I cameback to check their optimizations but the game still didn't run in an acceptable way on my rig. In any case, I'm glad I took an i7 instead of i5 this time around.

I dunno, man. I have an i5 3570K@4.2 and I never drop below 40fps even in massive 500 person battles where you can't see half the people shooting at you.
 
Any opinions?

I'm in a similar dilemma and have decided to upgrade in future but stick with 1080p for now. There will come a time in a couple of years when it will be necessary to upgrade my build a little just to keep up, and then that would prompt a significant outlay (by then DDR4 will be the norm, I'd have to get a new motherboard for a new chipset, etc.). This outlay would hopefully allow me to game at good framerates in 1440p.

Not to mention the Korean monitors I've been looking at apparently don't play ball with a PS4 at all.
 
I dunno, man. I have an i5 3570K@4.2 and I never drop below 40fps even in massive 500 person battles where you can't see half the people shooting at you.

40fps as a min in Planetside 2 sounds good, I wish I had that, maybe it was because of my SLI setup? In any case it definitely went into the low 20's for me during heated battles.
 
Random note, never let your CPU cooler get filled with dust. I let it go without properly cleaning it for 3 months. For reference, I wanted to see how much of a temperature difference it would make before and after cleaning, so I went max load (97-99% usage) on it with video rendering, for about 30 mins per test. (It's an i7-3770k Ivy Bridge w/ stock Intel cooler, which works surprisingly well.)

Before cleaning: 78-81 degrees across all cores.
After cleaning: 62-67 degrees across all cores.
 
I'm running into an odd situation - I've always used HWMonitor to track my CPU temps to see if things are getting too hot. I recently picked up a new motherboard that has a LED CPU temp gauge on the back that gives out a basic reading in Celsius. I picked up a 4790k to go along with it and installed a h90i (first time with anything water), and have been keeping tabs on my temps before I OC the CPU at all. However, HWMonitor is giving me readings 15-20 degrees above what the mobo shows in addition to the ASUS software that comes bundled with it (i.e. everything asus is giving me lower readings). Anyway to tell which is more reliable between HWMonitor and whatever the mobo is telling me? It's a big difference in my comfort level if I'm hitting 60 under loads versus a # in the 80s.
 
I'm running into an odd situation - I've always used HWMonitor to track my CPU temps to see if things are getting too hot. I recently picked up a new motherboard that has a LED CPU temp gauge on the back that gives out a basic reading in Celsius. I picked up a 4790k to go along with it and installed a h90i (first time with anything water), and have been keeping tabs on my temps before I OC the CPU at all. However, HWMonitor is giving me readings 15-20 degrees above what the mobo shows in addition to the ASUS software that comes bundled with it (i.e. everything asus is giving me lower readings). Anyway to tell which is more reliable between HWMonitor and whatever the mobo is telling me? It's a big difference in my comfort level if I'm hitting 60 under loads versus a # in the 80s.

Try out another CPU program like CoreTemp, and see if you get the same odd readings.
 
Can anyone suggest a good PSU?
I have an asus motherboard which gives me some surge protection bullshit and reboots by itself whenever I play certain games for 30 minutes or so.
My current PSU is a 7 year old Corsair VX550 which has been fantastic and I doubt it's the actual cause of the problem, but might as well upgrade it.
My dilemma is that I was set on getting another Corsair (AX760) or Seasonic (X650 or XP660) but, I stumbled onto the EVGA Supernova G2 750 which is made by super flower and reviewers seem to think it's the bees knees, it's also $80 cheaper than the corsair, $20 cheaper than the SSX and $50 cheaper than the SSXP.
Which of the above would be best?
Is the EVGA Supernova G2 really as good as a Seasonic made PSU, especially considering how much cheaper it is?
Do Seasonic made PSUs still have issues with coil whine?
 
Can anyone suggest a good PSU?
I have an asus motherboard which gives me some surge protection bullshit and reboots by itself whenever I play certain games for 30 minutes or so.
My current PSU is a 7 year old Corsair VX550 which has been fantastic and I doubt it's the actual cause of the problem, but might as well upgrade it.
My dilemma is that I was set on getting another Corsair (AX760) or Seasonic (X650 or XP660) but, I stumbled onto the EVGA Supernova G2 750 which is made by super flower and reviewers seem to think it's the bees knees, it's also $80 cheaper than the corsair, $20 cheaper than the SSX and $50 cheaper than the SSXP.
Which of the above would be best?
Is the EVGA Supernova G2 really as good as a Seasonic made PSU, especially considering how much cheaper it is?
Do Seasonic made PSUs still have issues with coil whine?

The G2 is the fucking bomb.
 
Random note, never let your CPU cooler get filled with dust. I let it go without properly cleaning it for 3 months. For reference, I wanted to see how much of a temperature difference it would make before and after cleaning, so I went max load (97-99% usage) on it with video rendering, for about 30 mins per test. (It's an i7-3770k Ivy Bridge w/ stock Intel cooler, which works surprisingly well.)

Before cleaning: 78-81 degrees across all cores.
After cleaning: 62-67 degrees across all cores.

Out of curiosity what do you clean it with? I've got a hyper 212 evo and a pretty dusty room, that thing looks like a pain to clean well.
 
I'm in a similar dilemma and have decided to upgrade in future but stick with 1080p for now. There will come a time in a couple of years when it will be necessary to upgrade my build a little just to keep up, and then that would prompt a significant outlay (by then DDR4 will be the norm, I'd have to get a new motherboard for a new chipset, etc.). This outlay would hopefully allow me to game at good framerates in 1440p.

Not to mention the Korean monitors I've been looking at apparently don't play ball with a PS4 at all.

Same problem here, everything is 1080p optimized as of now, most of my media is too. And I don't have $$$ for multiple 780 tis lol. I'll wait for UHD (4K) in a few years.
 
Any point in waiting for Haswell-E? (focus on streaming/ games/ rendering)
 
When I build my new system in the near future, I will have enough old parts to build a second PC (save for RAM, which is cheap anyway).

My thought is: Keep the new, high-end PC as a dedicated gaming machine and re-build my old one as a dedicated everyday use system (browsing, videos, email, etc).

Downside is that I will have to split off another cable from my router (or buy a wireless dongle) to share internets, as well as having to physically set the thing up on another computer desk.

So what I am wondering is: has anyone else here gone with a similar set up? Or should I just stick with the new high-end and do it all.

Specs that matter on the new one will be: i5-4690, 16 GB DDR3 RAM, Radeon HD 7950, 750W PSU
 
When I build my new system in the near future, I will have enough old parts to build a second PC (save for RAM, which is cheap anyway).

My thought is: Keep the new, high-end PC as a dedicated gaming machine and re-build my old one as a dedicated everyday use system (browsing, videos, email, etc).

Downside is that I will have to split off another cable from my router (or buy a wireless dongle) to share internets, as well as having to physically set the thing up on another computer desk.

So what I am wondering is: has anyone else here gone with a similar set up? Or should I just stick with the new high-end and do it all.

Specs that matter on the new one will be: i5-4690, 16 GB DDR3 RAM, Radeon HD 7950, 750W PSU

I used to do that. In the end I abandoned the second machine. Desk space was out of hand with the two machines and frankly there was nothing I could do on the second machine that I couldn't dual screen with my main machine. It was really only useful in dual boxing everquest.
 
Hey guys, need some advice.

I gave a Gigabyte AMD Radeon R9 270x, Intel Core i3, 4130 ghz and 4 GB of Corsair Vengeance ram. Not having any problems running games at 1080p with a lot turned to ultra and high. Ran BF4 at a mix of Ultra and High settings and was getting 60 plus, but some drops to 40-45 in places where there shouldn't be drops, but maybe thats because of optimization.

My question is, do you think I will need to upgrade my CPU in 2015 for games like The Witcher 3 and whatever else is coming out? I gave at 1080p only.

Thanks!
 
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