"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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Calibus said:
When I build my new system in the near future, I will have enough old parts to build a second PC (save for RAM, which is cheap anyway).

My thought is: Keep the new, high-end PC as a dedicated gaming machine and re-build my old one as a dedicated everyday use system (browsing, videos, email, etc).

Downside is that I will have to split off another cable from my router (or buy a wireless dongle) to share internets, as well as having to physically set the thing up on another computer desk.

So what I am wondering is: has anyone else here gone with a similar set up? Or should I just stick with the new high-end and do it all.

Specs that matter on the new one will be: i5-4690, 16 GB DDR3 RAM, Radeon HD 7950, 750W PSU
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You probably want a switch to add more wired connections, should you decide to keep your old system. I'm using my old laptop as a desktop. I have both my desktop and laptop connected to two monitors. The desktop is connected via hdmi and display port, while the laptop is connected via hdmi and vga. The hdmi connections for both computers are connected to an hdmi switch as well. Basically, my laptop is a backup computer/experimental computer/torrent box. I'll probably be in your boat about 2, 2 and a half years from now with my current rig on whether I want to salvage some parts for new build, or go completely new and use old rig for another purpose such as a file server/nas.
 
Corpsepyre said:
Hey guys, need some advice.

I gave a Gigabyte AMD Radeon R9 270x, Intel Core i3, 4130 ghz and 4 GB of Corsair Vengeance ram. Not having any problems running games at 1080p with a lot turned to ultra and high. Ran BF4 at a mix of Ultra and High settings and was getting 60 plus, but some drops to 40-45 in places where there shouldn't be drops, but maybe thats because of optimization.

My question is, do you think I will need to upgrade my CPU in 2015 for games like The Witcher 3 and whatever else is coming out? I gave at 1080p only.

Thanks!
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Maybe? No one knows. Did you get a z series motherboard to allow an upgrade?
 
kennah said:
Nope. But you could still put an i7 in there if you needed to upgrade in the future. You just can't overclock.

It might take the 4790k which has a stock speed of 4.0ghz
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How does one figure this out? The Mobo box does say it supports all 4th Gen processors. I don't plan on overclocking the CPU though. Don't want to risk it.
 
Corpsepyre said:
How does one figure this out? The Mobo box does say it supports all 4th Gen processors. I don't plan on overclocking the CPU though. Don't want to risk it.
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You can't overclock on your motherboard anyway. (There is no risk anymore. The chips are designed for it)

Yours with a B85 chipset should be able to support the 4970K but you'd need to update your bios.


BUT. you should only upgrade when your computer is starting to feel slow TO YOU. Wait until 2015. There might be different stuff you'd want to buy out then.
 
If you were to build the dream machine in the summer of 2015, based on what we know today, what parts would it contain? Money would be no object and it would need to play everything at 4k/60fps minimum.
 
So I'm a complete IDIOT and knocked a half full water bottle onto my computer earlier today. Immediately the screen went black (but the system stayed on, making me initially think that the GPU got the worst of it) and so I turned it off and did my best to dry it off (it got probably ~1/4 of a water bottle worth of water on it, but it went in through the fan which kinda sprayed it all over).

I just tried turning it back on, but nothing happens at all. Like, the fans don't even come on. So that means its 99% certain that its at least a dead PSU, right? I guess there's no easy way to test the rest of the system without a new PSU? I think I just threw out the one from my last build too, ugh. Really hoping the rest of the system is ok, but I don't have high hopes for the GPU (which took the brunt of the water).

Am I right in thinking my plan of attack is to do the paper clip test on my PSU and see if its dead or not, then get a new PSU and go from there? I'm so surprised the PSU died, to be honest. Its pretty much completely covered by the GPU (a big one, an R9 290) and sound card, AND I have the fan facing down, so there wouldn't even be an obvious place for water to get inside it.

Edit: Actually, thinking about it, seems most likely the mobo is dead, right? I'll test the PSU tomorrow (don't feel like dealing with it tonight...) and if that works, guess its the mobo. Sigh. At least Microcenter is relatively close so I can go get a new one...
 
kennah said:
You can't overclock on your motherboard anyway. (There is no risk anymore. The chips are designed for it)

Yours with a B85 chipset should be able to support the 4970K but you'd need to update your bios.


BUT. you should only upgrade when your computer is starting to feel slow TO YOU. Wait until 2015. There might be different stuff you'd want to buy out then.
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What if I get a 4th gen i5? Is there a significant jump from my i3 to that?
 
Hawk269 said:
If you were to build the dream machine in the summer of 2015, based on what we know today, what parts would it contain? Money would be no object and it would need to play everything at 4k/60fps minimum.
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5930K + X99 + 32GB DDR4 + SLI Maxwell Titans.

Not a huge upgrade from your current system :P
 
mkenyon said:
5930K + X99 + 32GB DDR4 + SLI Maxwell Titans.

Not a huge upgrade from your current system :P
Click to expand...

A $500 CPU and a $300 mobo are now the cheapest part of your dream. 32 GB of bleeding-edge RAM will set you back a good $400 to $600 however a pair of those new Titans I bet will cost you $3000 :(

What happened to the GPU market man :(... you used to be able to comfortably build a bleeding edge system at the dawn of new tech for ~$3000 now you have to be ready to spend $5000+.
 
Very dumb newb question: if I build a new PC, once I install my HD, Windows will still be fine right? I don't have to redo an install just because I switch Mother Board/CPU right?
 
Ether_Snake said:
Very dumb newb question: if I build a new PC, once I install my HD, Windows will still be fine right? I don't have to redo an install just because I switch Mother Board/CPU right?
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Windows has been pretty good over the past few years in recognizing hardware change but some drivers are drastic enough changes that you may not successfully boot the first time. I remember Vista used to require reactivation if you made enough hardware changes that the OS thinks its a different PC.
 
ekgrey said:
i thought the install was associated with the mobo? to stop people just selling hard drives with a copy of the OS on it?
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The problem is a lot more complicated than that. Basically imagine the registry as a map and every motherboard as a different kind of compass. If you stay close (say sidegrading from a Z77 motherboard to a different Z77 motherboard) it should be fine, but if you get a new CPU and motherboard odds are Windows just isn't going to know where to send information properly and you will need a reformat anyway.
 
Ether_Snake said:
Very dumb newb question: if I build a new PC, once I install my HD, Windows will still be fine right? I don't have to redo an install just because I switch Mother Board/CPU right?
Click to expand...

True story incoming.
I recently switched from a Core2Duo 775 motherboard/cpu to a 1150motherboard/cpu and Linux booted up without issue, Windows7 blue screens a few seconds into it's bootup animation.
Apparently you might get lucky if you remove all motherboard related drivers from windows before you switch.
 
Just got an SSD and I want to do a complete reinstall of Windows on it. Now Windows is operating from my current HDD. I would like to keep my HDD in my build for storage matters, but what should I do with my Windows install on it? Should I first de-install Windows off of my HDD or can I just manually delete all Windows files after I've installed Windows on my SSD?

Any more tips for fresh installs of Windows on an SSD are welcome btw.
 
Dries said:
Just got an SSD and I want to do a complete reinstall of Windows on it. Now Windows is operating from my current HDD. I would like to keep my HDD in my build for storage matters, but what should I do with my Windows install on it? Should I first de-install Windows off of my HDD or can I just manually delete all Windows files after I've installed Windows on my SSD?

Any more tips for fresh installs of Windows on an SSD are welcome btw.
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Install a fresh copy of windows on the SSD without the HDD plugged in. Once windows is installed plug in the HDD. It should automatically boot from the SSD and then you should be able to copy the files off of the HDD that you want To keep to the SSD and then format the HDD from within windows and it will just be a completely empty drive to work with
 
I have built my PC over the weekend and all seems well. Praise Cthulhu!

I have one small issue. When i boot for the first few times i get "CPU Fan Error".

If i restart a few times it boots normally.

I'm using the Corsair H100i to cool my 4770k. Is there something in the BIOS i need to change?
 
SuicideUZI said:
Install a fresh copy of windows on the SSD without the HDD plugged in. Once windows is installed plug in the HDD. It should automatically boot from the SSD and then you should be able to copy the files off of the HDD that you want To keep to the SSD and then format the HDD from within windows and it will just be a completely empty drive to work with
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Thanks man. Will do. Another question: Using which socket in my mobo should I connect my SSD? There isn't really much of a manual here. Maybe it'll be obvious once I open my case but it doesn't hurt to ask. My SSD is a Samsung 840 EVO and my mobo is a GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3
 
Great help guys. One last question. Does anyone have any experience updating the BIOS of a Gigabyte mobo? The update I found here is just a single .exe file. I'm wondering if I just run that .exe in windows or copy the .exe to a USB and boot that up via my BIOS.
 
Dries said:
Great help guys. One last question. Does anyone have any experience updating the BIOS of a Gigabyte mobo? The update I found here is just a single .exe file. I'm wondering if I just run that .exe in windows or copy the .exe to a USB and boot that up via my BIOS.
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Typically Gigabyte use a program called @BIOS to update the BIOS. It's in Utilities. Download the program and run it and then it should download the most recent BIOS version by itself to install. You can ignore the Face Wizard if you're happy with the 'Insist on Ultra Durable' splash screen when you turn on.
 
Josman said:
Out of curiosity what do you clean it with? I've got a hyper 212 evo and a pretty dusty room, that thing looks like a pain to clean well.
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I used this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW/?tag=neogaf0e-20

You could be more extensive, and take the cooler off from the board and give it a proper wipe down / reapply new Thermal Paste, but I wanted to just see the difference dust would make on CPU temps. Either way, that blower I linked is fucking boss. As soon as you point it at the computer, it will be a dust explosion. When I do dust removal, I'll use that, then a dust rag for everything aside from the motherboard / anything with components showing.
 
Does anyone know how to fix this scenario?

I installed Windows 8.1 Pro earlier today after buying an SSD. It all went smoothly, activated nicely and I've been using it to play some games and listen to music.

Then I remember that I had gotten a free Windows 8 Media Centre key back in 2012 when MS were giving them out. I went and found it in my emails and activated it in Windows. All went well, it downloaded the pack and rebooted.

Then after an hour or so I get a message that my Windows isn't activated... I check and sure enough it needs to be activated and says I have a bad key.

When I checked the last digits of the key, they were the Windows 8 Media Centre add-on key and not my Windows 8.1 Pro key. I checked my email and apparently that key expired in Jan 2013, but still activated on my account.

So now I have an expired key that has overwritten my good key and I can't put in the good one (not for this product error message).

I tried calling the activation line and both the computer and the person said it was a bad key and I'd need to talk to tech support. She put me through to tech and then after 15 minutes on hold it said the offices were closed and to call back another time...
 
Hi everybody, I wonder if a PSU by Coolmaster G450M can handle a i5-4460 + r9-270x or more? I miss to double check before confirming the order. Thx
 
Looks like I have to re-install Windows 8.1 Pro if I want to do it without waiting for tech support =\

Now to copy 300GB of Steam games back off of my SSD...
 
The Llama said:
So I'm a complete IDIOT and knocked a half full water bottle onto my computer earlier today. Immediately the screen went black (but the system stayed on, making me initially think that the GPU got the worst of it) and so I turned it off and did my best to dry it off (it got probably ~1/4 of a water bottle worth of water on it, but it went in through the fan which kinda sprayed it all over).

I just tried turning it back on, but nothing happens at all. Like, the fans don't even come on. So that means its 99% certain that its at least a dead PSU, right? I guess there's no easy way to test the rest of the system without a new PSU? I think I just threw out the one from my last build too, ugh. Really hoping the rest of the system is ok, but I don't have high hopes for the GPU (which took the brunt of the water).

Am I right in thinking my plan of attack is to do the paper clip test on my PSU and see if its dead or not, then get a new PSU and go from there? I'm so surprised the PSU died, to be honest. Its pretty much completely covered by the GPU (a big one, an R9 290) and sound card, AND I have the fan facing down, so there wouldn't even be an obvious place for water to get inside it.

Edit: Actually, thinking about it, seems most likely the mobo is dead, right? I'll test the PSU tomorrow (don't feel like dealing with it tonight...) and if that works, guess its the mobo. Sigh. At least Microcenter is relatively close so I can go get a new one...
Click to expand...

So I was able to turn it on this morning! Partial success! The GPU's fans spin but nothing displays on the screen :( Connected my monitor to the integrated GPU and was able to get Windows to load. Obviously doesn't mean nothing else is damaged (I'll run Prime95 overnight to verify CPU/RAM stability) but if its just the GPU, thats not the worst case scenario. And obviously I removed the GPU and will let it chill for a little longer before I officially declare it dead.
 
Can anyone offer any advice on switching from Nvidia to AMD without having to reinstall windows? How do I uninstall the Nvidia drivers without messing up my Windows 8.1 installation?

edit, and can anyone give me the link to the reddit person with the cheap windows keys?
 
Untalkative_Bunny said:
Can anyone offer any advice on switching from Nvidia to AMD without having to reinstall windows? How do I uninstall the Nvidia drivers without messing up my Windows 8.1 installation?

edit, and can anyone give me the link to the reddit person with the cheap windows keys?
Click to expand...
You just run the uninstaller in the control panel. changing a video card won't poop windows. You don't even haaaaave to uninstall the old drivers, but it's a good idea.
 
I have a random hypothetical question. So I just bought a rig with an R9 290. Say in a couple years, I want a performance boost out of my games. Would it be more worthwhile (generally speaking) to buy a new card for $400-600, or would I benefit from adding on a second R9 290 for like $150-200 (which I assume they'll drop to at some point).
 
puffyshirt said:
I have a random hypothetical question. So I just bought a rig with an R9 290. Say in a couple years, I want a performance boost out of my games. Would it be more worthwhile (generally speaking) to buy a new card for $400-600, or would I benefit from adding on a second R9 290 for like $150-200 (which I assume they'll drop to at some point).
Click to expand...
Always go single card when you can. The only reason to go multi card is if te fastest single card inst fast enough for you
 
kennah said:
Always go single card when you can. The only reason to go multi card is if te fastest single card inst fast enough for you
Click to expand...

Pretty much, the biggest deciding factor will be the resolution you will be gaming at.

I game at 4k and single card doesn't seem like it would be an option for some time.
 
Ok I think I have my "rough draft" for what I want my upgraded components to be and wanted to get opinions are a couple items:

CPU: i5-4690 (non-K, I will not be overclocking)

Mobo: Gigabyte Z97-HD3

OS: Win 8.1

(Already have GPU, Case, 16 GB RAM, PSU, etc)


Now, for the components I wanted to get input on:

SSD: Crucial MX100 256GB -- I already have a Crucial 128GB SSD which skirts close to being full from time to time, but I have been able to manage. At $115 is the upgrade worth it? I normally have about 100 GB of data installed on PC at any given time, but that of course can change at any moment.

Cooling: Corsair H90 -- Air cooling has served me well fro non-OC, but lower temps on the CPU can prolong its life and get better performance. However, I have heard Corsair CLCs have noise problems. Another consideration is the H60 since I am not needing a cooler for high performance. Anyone had experience with the H-series coolers? Do they generally run good and quiet?

Budget: Trying to say as close to 5-600USD as possible.
 
Why are you getting a Z board if you aren't overclocking?

And the H series cooler for that matter. Longevity wouldn't be affected at all and the performance wouldn't change since you aren't overclocking. It's a big pointless waste.
 
kennah said:
Why are you getting a Z board if you aren't overclocking?

And the H series cooler for that matter. Longevity wouldn't be affected at all and the performance wouldn't change since you aren't overclocking. It's a big pointless waste.
Click to expand...

More for future-proofing. Will non-Z97s be forward compatible with Broadwell? If so, I could downgrade the board.


EDIT: Ok, so apparently the H97-series boards are going to be forward compatible as well, so here is my new rough draft build:

CPU = i5-4690

Mobo = ASRock H97M-PRO4

OS = Win 8.1

SSD (potentially) = Crucial MX100 256 GB

Cooler (going back to air) = Arctic Alpine 11 Rev. 2

Saves almost $80.
 
This is taken from the Maximum PC podcast. They had some nVidia reps on this past week. Take it for what it's worth.

At 1:39, Tom says "The 800's are going to be awesome! Keep your eyes peeled at Gamescom for a special announcement.. we've already got some folks deep in the trenches, busy making new 2nd-gen Maxwell threads, spreading rumors, and building that sweet green hype. All I can say is, it's gonna be more powerful and more cheaper than the 700's.. and it's gonna be so huge, you'll love it!" Rev then replies, "Yeah, and fuck ARM cores and TSMC's 20nm fab!"

They then proceed to high-five.. twice.
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Something else.

PIxgpBE.png


From 16:00 and from 14:00 on Saturday 26 [announcement] July, at Sofmap Akihabara reuse Integrated Research Building special space, I will be done the "product special session in Akihabara MSI summer". NVIDIA will also conduct a talk for the latest information on GeForce.
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Hey guys, I have a question. I've been noticing that I've had a couple of issues with my card that I got from Amazon and just wanted to see if it's either the card or another component causing problems in the build. I got an MSI 290 from Amazon warehouse for $300 since the Gigabytes were sold out. I was having screen flickering issues that seems to have been a result of the cable I was using. With that fixed, my other issues have been crashing with a slight overclock and my gpu usage being all over the place when playing games according to Afterburner's OSD. Most recently, I've been playing Witcher 2 and I see that besides I guess the cutscenes when they first load up, its mostly 60fps. Any ideas?
 
xBladeM6x said:
I used this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW/?tag=neogaf0e-20

You could be more extensive, and take the cooler off from the board and give it a proper wipe down / reapply new Thermal Paste, but I wanted to just see the difference dust would make on CPU temps. Either way, that blower I linked is fucking boss. As soon as you point it at the computer, it will be a dust explosion. When I do dust removal, I'll use that, then a dust rag for everything aside from the motherboard / anything with components showing.
Click to expand...

That thing looks great, I was thinking cans of compressed air but they're quiet expensive, I'm not American but the blower ships international, thanks man.

Btw is it safe blowing air to internal components at such a high pressure? I thought there was a risk of electrostatic discharges or something?
 
Josman said:
That thing looks great, I was thinking cans of compressed air but they're quiet expensive, I'm not American but the blower ships international, thanks man.

Btw is it safe blowing air to internal components at such a high pressure? I thought there was a risk of electrostatic discharges or something?
Click to expand...

I've heard that but I've never had a problem with that duster. Made in the USA too, fwiiw. Kinda loud though.
 
Hey guys...I know this is a stupid question, but I know nothing about networks.

My PC is currently wired to a modem. I have to move the PC downstairs as I've got a baby on the way and the office is turning into a nursery. There are no phone ports in the basement so I have to keep the modem in the same room.

What are my options for my PC to be able to connect to my wifi network? Like most desktop PCs, it does not have a wireless card.
 
The Lamonster said:
Hey guys...I know this is a stupid question, but I know nothing about networks.

My PC is currently wired to a modem. I have to move the PC downstairs as I've got a baby on the way and the office is turning into a nursery. There are no phone ports in the basement so I have to keep the modem in the same room.

What are my options for my PC to be able to connect to my wifi network? Like most desktop PCs, it does not have a wireless card.
Click to expand...

Buy a wifi adapter (internal or external) or use powerline adapters to keep it wired.
 
The Lamonster said:
Hey guys...I know this is a stupid question, but I know nothing about networks.

My PC is currently wired to a modem. I have to move the PC downstairs as I've got a baby on the way and the office is turning into a nursery. There are no phone ports in the basement so I have to keep the modem in the same room.

What are my options for my PC to be able to connect to my wifi network? Like most desktop PCs, it does not have a wireless card.
Click to expand...

Considered power line network adapters? As long as your wiring ain't shit it'll give a better experience than WiFi.
 
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