You reinstalled the NVIDIA HDMI audio drivers?
Reseat the GPU, unplug the power plugs and then put them all the way back in. Something probably came loose when you transported it.
"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!
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That Wont Fit In There
Member
I think I did, but most likely not since everything was working before. I'm assuming that would be included with the NVIDIA disc that came with the Video card?
Edit: I reinstalled the audio drivers. I'll have to check the NVIDIA drivers really quick. Misread your post, sorry.
Edit 2: If the NVIDIA High Definition Audio driver is what you're talking about then I did reinstall it.
Getting fed up with my EVGA GTX 680's fans kicking in for the slightest thing, it ramps up just playing Divinity!
Is it worth getting a non-reference 780 or an ATI card? Or if I go SLI (I've got an 800w PSU) and put a non-reference 680 as the primary card, I take it the EVGA wouldn't get used as much as so the fans wouldn't be as loud?
Is it worth getting a non-reference 780 or an ATI card? Or if I go SLI (I've got an 800w PSU) and put a non-reference 680 as the primary card, I take it the EVGA wouldn't get used as much as so the fans wouldn't be as loud?
That Wont Fit In There
Member
I just fixed it. It finally read the NVIDIA audio drivers. Thanks for the help 
maneil99
Member
Change your fan curve
Definitely not.
This, and clean it. You could get an aftermarket cooler for it too.
Manufacturer quotes times are largely BS. It's also a function of the start and end point in terms of light level (there isn't one number). Response time also isn't a single authoritative value. There are other things to worry about like overshoot and steady state error. In general, improving response time comes with increased overshoot (assuming the system isn't overdamped).
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/asus_rog_swift_pg278q.htm
I was just pointing out that there is another high refresh rate 1440p panel. This one comes with better color accuracy/viewing angles at the cost of response time/some blurring. Both will be considerable improvements over a 60Hz display.
Thanks! Have a 1150, so I'm good
Up to a 780 should fine with Nvidia. Valve had 450w Gold unit, a 780 and an i5 in their Steambox.
AMD stuff uses more power iirc. Need to look it up.
puffyshirt
Banned
okay, so I got it working, i literally had to just jig around the cord at the back of the video card. it seems to be a bit fussy, i think the conneciton might be not great (i've tried two cords), but it's working now and I have no reason to move the pc anymore, so I won't worry yet.
//DEVIL//
Member
Hi. so I recently in a move to switch to PC gaming and away from the consoles I was able to get from my friend his I7 2660k Processor, 8Gig DDR 3 1666, I bought an OK motherboard for it and 2T HDD.
and today I was able to get my hands on a brand new XFX R9 290 4 Gig DRR5. for like 350$.
anyway. I used to have a 470 GTX and Nvidia drivers in the PC. now I have few questions I would like to ask.
1- is there a way to delete all the Nvidia drivers completely ?
2- is there a program to show the FPS count on the side of the screen during game play ?
3- I am experiencing a weird bug that I really need help with. for example. when I play Crysis 2. when I put it on ultra at everything. if its full screen full hd, its choppy as hell. even if its on normal settings. when I keep it full HD but turn off the full screen option. its smooth as butter. why is that ?
for the records, I also played titan fall and I believe at full settings and it was smooth as butter as well. I wish to try BF3 or BF4 at least a demo to see the performance. but I do not have those games and I do not know where I can get a code for BF3 or something for free. but that is something else.
and today I was able to get my hands on a brand new XFX R9 290 4 Gig DRR5. for like 350$.
anyway. I used to have a 470 GTX and Nvidia drivers in the PC. now I have few questions I would like to ask.
1- is there a way to delete all the Nvidia drivers completely ?
2- is there a program to show the FPS count on the side of the screen during game play ?
3- I am experiencing a weird bug that I really need help with. for example. when I play Crysis 2. when I put it on ultra at everything. if its full screen full hd, its choppy as hell. even if its on normal settings. when I keep it full HD but turn off the full screen option. its smooth as butter. why is that ?
for the records, I also played titan fall and I believe at full settings and it was smooth as butter as well. I wish to try BF3 or BF4 at least a demo to see the performance. but I do not have those games and I do not know where I can get a code for BF3 or something for free. but that is something else.
King Gilga
Member
So I just put together my computer in a Cooler Master CM690 II case, this thing was left over, anyone know where it goes?
I checked the case's manual didn't see anything that would help.
Cheers.
I checked the case's manual didn't see anything that would help.
Cheers.
Looks like a dust filter for the PSU.
King Gilga
Member
You're right, it is, thanks a lot.
Search for DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller) and you can get that part sorted out.
I personally use MSI afterburner or Fraps.
Ray Wonder
Founder of the Wounded Tagless Children
Can someone recommend me a mouse for under $50. I'm topping off my build with a few accessories, and I don't know which mouse to get. Any favorites?
I have this mouse (on sale!) and I really like it. I don't know how regularly it pops up as recommended but for that price, I think it's fantastic.
Ray Wonder
Founder of the Wounded Tagless Children
Looked at a few reviews. I liked it, and bought it. Thanks for the recommendation.
eBay Huckster
Member
CurlySaysX
Banned
Just ordered two. thanks for the tip.
Ray Wonder
Founder of the Wounded Tagless Children
Gumbie
Member
Ordered 3 next day delivery.
Hi guys, I was looking to build a new PC last year but ran into a bit of financial trouble. Things are looking better now so I'm back to give it another shot.
Your Current Specs: I have an e8400 dual core and 5670 at the moment.
Budget: Roughly $1000 (Canada)
Main Use: Gaming and general usage
Monitor Resolution: Currently using 1650x1080, but I'm hoping to upgrade to 1080p in a year or two.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Nothing in particular, hoping to be able to pull 60fps at high for a few years.
Looking to reuse any parts?: I'll probably reuse my 1TB WD Blue.
When will you build?: Looking to get everything together by September.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes.
This is what I've thrown together so far, but I have a few questions.
1) What's the difference between the Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H and ASRock Z97 Pro3?
2) How's the Gigabyte Windforce version of the R9 280? Should I be taking it over the 760, and would the BP550 be enough for it?
3) Having a bit of trouble picking a case. I'd love to pick up an R4 or Enthoo Pro but might need to go with something a bit cheaper. Recommendations for ones with decent cable management and that aren't hideous?
4) Is there currently a go-to low-profile DDR3 stick people use?
Your Current Specs: I have an e8400 dual core and 5670 at the moment.
Budget: Roughly $1000 (Canada)
Main Use: Gaming and general usage
Monitor Resolution: Currently using 1650x1080, but I'm hoping to upgrade to 1080p in a year or two.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Nothing in particular, hoping to be able to pull 60fps at high for a few years.
Looking to reuse any parts?: I'll probably reuse my 1TB WD Blue.
When will you build?: Looking to get everything together by September.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes.
This is what I've thrown together so far, but I have a few questions.
1) What's the difference between the Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H and ASRock Z97 Pro3?
2) How's the Gigabyte Windforce version of the R9 280? Should I be taking it over the 760, and would the BP550 be enough for it?
3) Having a bit of trouble picking a case. I'd love to pick up an R4 or Enthoo Pro but might need to go with something a bit cheaper. Recommendations for ones with decent cable management and that aren't hideous?
4) Is there currently a go-to low-profile DDR3 stick people use?
eBay Huckster
Member
I should probably mention that my monitor budget's almost exactly $100 under what that costs
Ok. I must be getting old because I've build my last four gaming PCs but after digging around for the past day or so on how to make a mini-tower that'll meet my specifications I have decided to go pre-built. I don't really have the patience any more to build and figure out what fits ideally with other parts and then packing them all into a small case in a way that doesn't run incredibly hot. I just want a high(ish) end gaming system where I have decent upgradability without dozens of hours of set-up and tweaking when I first get it.
I ended up with these components which met my goal requirements:
CPU: i7 4790K
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 120XL (with upgraded fan)
Graphics: MSI Geforce GTX 780 3GB Twin Frozr
MB: Gigabyte GA-Z97N Mini ITX
Memory: A-data XPG V2 16GB DDR3-1866
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500 GB
Case: mini tower
Power supply: Cooler Master VSM 650W 80+ Gold
Optical: some random DVD r/w
Windows 8.1
After a lot of research, I ended up going with a Cyberpowerpc Zeus Mini for about $40-50 more than I priced everything out via pcpartpicker (not counting the mail in rebates which total like $40 more but my record with actually sending in MIRs is sketchy at best). I also have to spend probably $50 in shipping more than I would having all the parts delivered. So, I'm spending anywhere from $80 to $140 more than I would have to.
In return I get a good labor/parts/tech support warranty, OC'ing (10%+ guaranteed) done as part of the build and, best of all for me at this point in my life, I get to just plug my accessories in and start using it. If anything goes wrong or doesn't work right I just call them right up or send it back.
If I had the time and patience I'd like to build again at some point but now it just wouldn't work. I'm definitely not a pro at building this stuff and, if my previous builds are any indication, I'm saving about 20-30hrs of work (and also the worry of whether or not I did it 'optimally' so constant tweaking and re-tweaking). I'll definitely do a little review when I receive it (which should be sometime next week).
I ended up with these components which met my goal requirements:
CPU: i7 4790K
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 120XL (with upgraded fan)
Graphics: MSI Geforce GTX 780 3GB Twin Frozr
MB: Gigabyte GA-Z97N Mini ITX
Memory: A-data XPG V2 16GB DDR3-1866
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500 GB
Case: mini tower
Power supply: Cooler Master VSM 650W 80+ Gold
Optical: some random DVD r/w
Windows 8.1
After a lot of research, I ended up going with a Cyberpowerpc Zeus Mini for about $40-50 more than I priced everything out via pcpartpicker (not counting the mail in rebates which total like $40 more but my record with actually sending in MIRs is sketchy at best). I also have to spend probably $50 in shipping more than I would having all the parts delivered. So, I'm spending anywhere from $80 to $140 more than I would have to.
In return I get a good labor/parts/tech support warranty, OC'ing (10%+ guaranteed) done as part of the build and, best of all for me at this point in my life, I get to just plug my accessories in and start using it. If anything goes wrong or doesn't work right I just call them right up or send it back.
If I had the time and patience I'd like to build again at some point but now it just wouldn't work. I'm definitely not a pro at building this stuff and, if my previous builds are any indication, I'm saving about 20-30hrs of work (and also the worry of whether or not I did it 'optimally' so constant tweaking and re-tweaking). I'll definitely do a little review when I receive it (which should be sometime next week).
Long shot, but this has solved many people's problems recently... have you tried updating the BIOs for the motherboard?
Ether_Snake
å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®
Any idea why when I booted my PC, I ended up in the Gigabyte title menu, and my keyboard was not working at all. I changed the USB port and after some time it worked. Then when I go to the Windows longon screen, neither my keyboard nor my mouse worked, I waited maybe 3 or 4 mins and then both worked without me doing anything.
This happened the first time I booted this new PC yesterday.
Also; any recommendation for a really quiet fan? I used one of my old ones and it turns out it's very loud.
This happened the first time I booted this new PC yesterday.
Also; any recommendation for a really quiet fan? I used one of my old ones and it turns out it's very loud.
Infinite Justice
Member
WUT?
Unless you are doing some fancy CPU and GPU cooling stuff (like creating the pipes, etc) that's a fuckton of tweaking and retweaking you are doing there.
Seriously haha. Building a computer is like 2-3 hours max, especially now with SSD's that don't take forever to install Windows...
eBay Huckster
Member
I've done a couple builds before and I can guarantee one thing: it's going to take me more time to get to/from Micro Center than it's going to take me to actually finish my build.
Yeah I'm not that good at it and a bit obsessive about doing it optimally so I work very slowly. I'm glad there are people out there that can slap them together in 2-3hrs as I'll happily give them $60 to do it. As long as they guarantee their work that is (as well as OC it and do some stability testing as well).
Anyways, for a price damn close to pcpartpicker it is a plug-and-play solution that, I hope, works well for me.
Infinite Justice
Member
ok. thats kinda wild in regards the just building the machine without the fancy stuff or DOA parts fucking up the timeline.
@ bold i can see that time for something like this though since it's usually the best to run that for some hours (and maybe a full day just to be sure), then tweak accordingly.
and yea if you don't mind paying and its done well then why not go for it. It will be their problem to deal with if it doesn't work
mkenyon already answered you but those estimates are a little high to cover their asses
i have a 280X running with a 4690K on a seasonic s12g 650W with no troubles
DarkDios666
Neo Member
Im on a budget and deadline.
$800 to $1000 is my budget.
im ordering all my parts from newegg.com
do not post something to other sites only from newegg thank you.
i am looking for a great great gaming PC.
so far my friend said to stick with the 750ti nvidia.
if you got something better please do.
like i said that is my budget Please help me build the best possible PC for gaming within that budget also i do not need a mouse or KB or moniter. just well you all know.
thank you my deadline is august 8th 2014.
$800 to $1000 is my budget.
im ordering all my parts from newegg.com
do not post something to other sites only from newegg thank you.
i am looking for a great great gaming PC.
so far my friend said to stick with the 750ti nvidia.
if you got something better please do.
like i said that is my budget Please help me build the best possible PC for gaming within that budget also i do not need a mouse or KB or moniter. just well you all know.
thank you my deadline is august 8th 2014.
We'll get right to work, boss.
You can probably do better than the 750Ti.
Newegg only will limit your options, though.
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4bPyt6
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4bPyt6/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280X 3GB Dual-X Video Card ($285.66 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($102.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1003.57
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-05 03:54 EDT-0400
DarkDios666
Neo Member
Sorry if i came off rude or bossy. im just really happy im finally getting a NEW and my OWN PC. this pc i have that i am using is about 10years old. i have been missing OUT big time.
and now that i finally have this budget i do not want to F*** it up. you know.
the CPU cooler is out of stock it says. sir seanspeed.
OH YEAH!!! that looks fantastic. thank you so much seanspeed. ordering it today. ill let you know how it is ill post pics.
Its good man, was just messing with ya. People here love to help.
Posted an option for ya above, pushing your budget to get pretty much the best stuff you could find.
You might do better with the GPU by not limiting yourself to Newegg, though(although that's still a good price for that card). The rest should be ok.
Oh, goody goody! Parts are coming in and I will be assembling the whole thing together with a friend this coming Saturday. Thank you for the input, will keep you updated.
Oh, and in the end I went with the Corsair CP-9020060-JP, 600W.
Oh, and in the end I went with the Corsair CP-9020060-JP, 600W.
Dries
Member
Guys, what is the actual difference between Intel SpeedStep (EIST) and C1E (CPU Advanced Halt)? I've read a bit and what I understand is that both functions do the same thing (lower clock speed when idle to benefit power saving) with the only difference being that Intel SpeedStep is controlled via the OS and C1E is controlled directly via the CPU.
Now, for stability reasons, I've disabled Intel SpeedStep and my C3/C6 states. I haven't touched C1E in my BIOS at all though. Since Intel SpeedStep is disabled, what should I do with C1E?
Now, for stability reasons, I've disabled Intel SpeedStep and my C3/C6 states. I haven't touched C1E in my BIOS at all though. Since Intel SpeedStep is disabled, what should I do with C1E?
Speedstep allows frequency and voltage scaling, CStates actually turn parts of the die completely off. You can have any configuration of them enabled/disabled. Find out how many options you can keep enabled whilst preventing the cold boot error. So slowly turn each option on until you find it creates an error. My bet is C6 or C7 states (if your on Haswell) are likely the issue or Speedstep.
Dries
Member
Don't know if you've seen the last post on the last page, but I haven't had a cold boot for some days now! So first of all, thanks for that. It just seems strange though that Intel provides two features that kinda do the same thing (C1E and EIST) and you can enable or disable both of these as you wish. It would seem to me that having one enabled and the other disabled would be contradicting.
Hi guys
Ive been thinking about building a new pc for quite some time now, but I need some advice on a few things:
1. I need a small mini itx case.
Ive been searching for one for ages, these in the op (bitfenix, CM, silverstone) dont really appeal.
Maybe one of you could recommend me one that you have experience with. (maybe a small lian li)
needed features (descending importance):
!-small footprint: limited depht and width (the case will sit on the desk), height is not a deciding factor
-fit a gtx760 (well actually an 860, but obviously no one knows how big or whatever it wil be)
-fit a cpu cooler that is better than stock (e.g. CM 212 evo)
-simple minimalistic looks
-should not fry the components
-maximum silence within given requirements
2. Is OCing on a mini itx MB worth shit ?
what Im looking at: 4690k overclocked on a gigabyte ga-z97n-wifi in a very small case
why do I ask: if OCing results in higher temperature and therefore faster spinning coolers I could be better off with another MB that is cheaper but lacks the OC features + a xeon e3-1231v3 which is basically an i7 without the iGPU (I dont need the iGPU and hyperthreading could be useful in the long run I suppose).
Thanks!
Ive been thinking about building a new pc for quite some time now, but I need some advice on a few things:
1. I need a small mini itx case.
Ive been searching for one for ages, these in the op (bitfenix, CM, silverstone) dont really appeal.
Maybe one of you could recommend me one that you have experience with. (maybe a small lian li)
needed features (descending importance):
!-small footprint: limited depht and width (the case will sit on the desk), height is not a deciding factor
-fit a gtx760 (well actually an 860, but obviously no one knows how big or whatever it wil be)
-fit a cpu cooler that is better than stock (e.g. CM 212 evo)
-simple minimalistic looks
-should not fry the components
-maximum silence within given requirements
2. Is OCing on a mini itx MB worth shit ?
what Im looking at: 4690k overclocked on a gigabyte ga-z97n-wifi in a very small case
why do I ask: if OCing results in higher temperature and therefore faster spinning coolers I could be better off with another MB that is cheaper but lacks the OC features + a xeon e3-1231v3 which is basically an i7 without the iGPU (I dont need the iGPU and hyperthreading could be useful in the long run I suppose).
Thanks!
Pixel Samurai
Member
Hi, super noob here.
I purchased a hodge podge of parts from the spreadsheets thanks all. Where do I get wifi from, the motherboard? Should I have bought a seperate network card? Am I stuck in 2007?
Thanks in advancs!
I purchased a hodge podge of parts from the spreadsheets thanks all. Where do I get wifi from, the motherboard? Should I have bought a seperate network card? Am I stuck in 2007?
Thanks in advancs!
Prophet Steve
Member
There are motherboards with wifi, but it is not very common. Likely you'll need a network card yes.
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