"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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Having troubles with CCLONLINE.COM currently, anyone else had any problem with them?

I basically contacted them to ask if the Benq XL2411Z monitors they have are firmware v2, I had an email back Monday saying that they are indeed v2 firmware. That was enough for me to bite and order one.

On Tuesday I had a confirmation email to say the monitor had been dispatched in the morning. At lunch time I had another email from a different member of staff saying that the monitors they had were actually NOT v2 and were the original firmware.. Not cool. I specifically ordered this BECAUSE of the previous confirmation email... I rang them and after lots of transfers and wating around, I found out that they think there is a mixture of v1 and v2 monitors and that if I recieve a v1, refuse the delivery and ring them back.

Fast forward today and of course, the monitor was v1. I refused to sign, sent it back and rang them. After more waiting around I was told that they are not sure now whether the stock they've got even has ANY v2 models (what) and they are going to contact Benq directly in order to get a v2 sent to me for Friday... They said they would ring me back by the end of the day to confirm either my refund or if they managed to secure a v2 to send me.

I heard nothing back.

I am furious about this, had the original email come back saying that they didnt have any v2's (or weren't sure) I would have ordered elsewhere from someone who COULD confirm they had v2's. Really pissed off with this hassle and basic lack of understanding about this whole situation. Entire week wasted basically. I would NOT recommend these guys even though they have somehow found themselves in the list in the OP of this thread.

Their Customer Service maybe piss poor, but generally they are fine, i got 16GB of Samsung Green "Wonder Ram" form these guys just recently.
Why not just get a refund and buy elsewhere?
 
Their Customer Service maybe piss poor, but generally they are fine, i got 16GB of Samsung Green "Wonder Ram" form these guys just recently.
Why not just get a refund and buy elsewhere?

I will if I don't hear anything back. They're cheap though and if I can definitely ensure they send me a v2, then I'll be laughing... I worry now that I may encounter this sort of crap with other places (at a more expensive price..)
 
This is true, NV's OpenCL support has certainly been a bit half-assed, especially over the past year or two.
I guess it's like AMD doubling down on Mantle making their OpenGL implementation and DX11 CPU performance comparatively shitty.
True.

FWIW though, Intel*** is basing a lot of DX12 on Mantle code. Might be the dawn of a new day. You know, like 10 years from now when most games are DX12. :P

EDIT ***I mean Microsoft.
 
I know this thread is mostly for builds but where can I *buy* a decent desktop system these days. It doesn't seem like you can just walk into a store and get one anymore. I've gotten a few good ASUS systems that way but even those seem to be involved in the race to the bottom. Looking for gaming/editing capabilities for around $1000-1200, with a little wiggle room.
 
guys will Asus Z97I-PLUS support Broadwell ?
No way to know for sure. Intel have been weird about this sort of thing.

It most likely will, I think.
I know this thread is mostly for builds but where can I *buy* a decent desktop system these days. It doesn't seem like you can just walk into a store and get one anymore. I've gotten a few good ASUS systems that way but even those seem to be involved in the race to the bottom. Looking for gaming/editing capabilities for around $1000-1200, with a little wiggle room.
Where are you located?

There's a host of websites that do customized builds, and that'd probably be what you'd want to use. You can also do things like have Frys or Microcenter build them for you, for a small fee. You can get Frys to pricematch Newegg and Amazon, so it's not the total ripoff it once was.
 
I have a problem with possibly my motherboard.

It is now starting to disconnect/reconnect my input devices (keyboard/mouse) and on an every time occurrence, it will crap out and fail to reconnect them, forcing me to do a hard shut down.

Is it time for a new motherboard or can this problem be fixed somehow?
I had this issue on my motherboard. I'm not exactly sure what I did to fix it, but I moved my input devices to USB 3.0 ports and made sure I was using the same port 'hub' for any USB hubs that could attach to the KB.

I disabled some low power states and Sleep too while I was at it, but it was probably overkill.

First thing I'd do would be to dust out your case and rear ports and replug everything back in. Most likely there is a short somewhere rather than something else.
 
No way to know for sure. Intel have been weird about this sort of thing.

It most likely will, I think.

Where are you located?

There's a host of websites that do customized builds, and that'd probably be what you'd want to use. You can also do things like have Frys or Microcenter build them for you, for a small fee. You can get Frys to pricematch Newegg and Amazon, so it's not the total ripoff it once was.

Oregon. Unfortunately we have the standard big box stores with the only one specializing in electronics being Best Buy. My last ASUS I got from there and it ran all last gen games really well. Bought it maybe 5 years ago? I just don't see much in stores anymore that is future proof.

It looks like I'll have to go online but hate not being able to preview the system before making a purchase.
 
Oregon with only a Best Buy. Deschutes county?

I'm in Olympia, most my family lives in PDX, and I'm planning two trips to Bend within the next 3 months. I could build something for you and deliver it if you'd like.
 
Oregon with only a Best Buy. Deschutes county?

I'm in Olympia, most my family lives in PDX, and I'm planning two trips to Bend within the next 3 months. I could build something for you and deliver it if you'd like.

Eugene, Lane County. A couple hours south of that unfortunately. :)
 
Well if you're up for meeting somewhere near Salem/PDX, I'll be down that way a few times in the next month or two. If that's awkward (and I understand), then you could also consider to driving up to Wilsonville and picking it up at Frys. Not too far north.

The "order online" type of places will generally be $300-700 more than what you would pay to build something yourself. However there was a GAFer that documented their purchase from Ironside Computers recently, and I was pretty damn impressed.
 
"Parity" is a strong word, and so is "literally". E.g. does AMDs Shadowplay-alike support background Desktop capturing? That's my main use case for Shadowplay, since that way it also supports background capture in both borderless windowed mode and OpenGL.

You mention a standard here on the AMD side which isn't supported by any HW right now (Freesync), and you don't mention PhysX (unless you mean that by "CUDA physics", which would be confusing since there are actually games with custom CUDA physics that don't use PhysX) which is integrated in at least 40 or so games. And of course, the more advanced driver features like HBAO+ and SGSSAA profiles.

NV supports both CUDA and OpenCL so I really don't see how AMD is "more general purpose" in this regard.

I just hate reading threads about how shitty PC gaming is because someone's AMD stuff doesn't work right. And, admittedly, I hate getting bug reports because AMD randomly changed their interpretation of the OpenGL standard.

Of course, as I said earlier in the thread, how much someone is willing to pay for features, convenience and stability absolutely is their own decision. Just be prepared for an "I told you so" from my side when you make a thread complaining that OpenGL game X doesn't work well for you :P

When I said CUDA physics I was using it as a catch-all for custom and standard PhysX solutions. I wasn't trying to make a list of exhaustive features, only show that both companies provide unique features that appeal to various demographics. Freesync is obviously earlier in development than G-SYNC, but seems like the one more likely to pick up steam given that it requires no unique hardware and is open source. When I was talking about AMD being general purpose I was referring to the compute strength of the consumer cards. A 7950 frequently outperforms a Titan in some tests:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7481/the-amd-radeon-r9-290-review/14
 
airflow questionnnn

If there are spots for two fans on the top of the case, would it be preferable to do both exhaust, or an intake for the one toward the front and exhaust for the one near the back?

So you can see all the sources there will be:
PqMVNPd.jpg
 
airflow questionnnn

If there are spots for two fans on the top of the case, would it be preferable to do both exhaust, or an intake for the one toward the front and exhaust for the one near the back?

So you can see all the sources there will be:

Intake by exhaust is gonna create a ton of turbulence and and mess up your flow considerably. Turbulent air actually transfers heat better, but you'll have problems getting the hot air out of the system. Honestly, though, average air speeds in a case are so low it's really not THAT big of a deal either way.
 
airflow questionnnn

If there are spots for two fans on the top of the case, would it be preferable to do both exhaust, or an intake for the one toward the front and exhaust for the one near the back?

So you can see all the sources there will be:
Generally leave them be as most modern PCs only require 1-3 fans to operate at great temps. :P
 
1. Better everything, from power management, to NIC, to sound, to even the PCB itself. I think it's worth it.

2. Good. Yes, better than 760. BP550 is enough. Though the Rosewill Hive 650W is about the same price as the BP550 right now, and would be a much better pick.

3. Check out options in the OP. They're all good.

4. Whatever happens to be least expensive on the day you buy.

Thanks for the advice! I picked up the 280, still trying to decide on a mid-size case for now.
 
Any plaves with good back to school offers?

Was checking MicroCenter, really amazing deals but it requires in store pickups for the MotherBoard/Cpu combos (well for most any CPU i checked). So i need the place to ship their products.

What would be the best price/performance ratio for a cpu/motherboard combo near 160 U.S.?
 
First thing I'd try is disabling the onboard GPU in the BIOS.

Didn't work :( It still won't power on with a discreet card installed unless I hold in the reset button while powering up at just the right time. Oddly, the system restarts and comes out of hibernation mode just fine.
 
New X99 teaser:

6LFLfUt.png


DDR4HYPE

Have people posted their rough DDR4 builds? I'm planning to go in seeing what $3400 will get me (I started a savings account labeled computer fund specifically for DDR4). I'm not gonna slum it this time around. The last time I went this bleeding edge was when the first core i7 launched. I got shredded... everything ($400 Triple-channel RAM, $350 Gigabyte Mobo, $300 Coolmax PSU, $300 Audigy Soundcard, etc...) failed. In fact, only the case which was a first gen Cosmo-S (with the shitty dust magnet rubber) and the i7 920 CPU survived.

I haven't learned my lesson it seems... like a fool, I hope I don't get burned again but its too damn exciting to sit out.
 
Went to Microcenter.

Is this a good build for about $2300 (includes 2 year warranty on everything)
MOBO: Asus Maximus VII Hero
CPU: i7 4790k
GPU: GTX 780 ti
RAM: Crucial 16 GB 2 x 8 D3 CL9
HDD/SSD: WD Black 3.5 2TB/ Samsung Evo 850 pro 256GB
PSU: EVGA 750W ATX PSU
CASE: Nzxt h440
Should I change a few things since the 800 series comes out soon or just leave things as is?
 
Have people posted their rough DDR4 builds? I'm planning to go in seeing what $3400 will get me (I started a savings account labeled computer fund specifically for DDR4). I'm not gonna slum it this time around. The last time I went this bleeding edge was when the first core i7 launched. I got shredded... everything ($400 Triple-channel RAM, $350 Gigabyte Mobo, $300 Coolmax PSU, $300 Audigy Soundcard, etc...) failed. In fact, only the case which was a first gen Cosmo-S (with the shitty dust magnet rubber) and the i7 920 CPU survived.

I haven't learned my lesson it seems... like a fool, I hope I don't get burned again but its too damn exciting to sit out.

I dont see how its exciting, transition from DDR2 to DDR3 was rough, for a while DDR2 was even faster. From rumors it seems it will be the same between DDR4 and DDR3. And new architectures are plagued with problems...
 
So I tried updating my BIOS but when I run the file it says it's not compatible with my version of windows 7 64bit, yet I downloaded the right file. It's either http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4050#ov or http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4765#ov and neither work.

According to CPU-Z I have F18, the latest is F20.

Anyway I want to buy an additional fan to keep my GPU cool. Right now it goes to 80c when rendering, I want to keep it cooler. Any recommendation in terms of where I should put the fan? I'm guessing I could put it on the left side panel? Any good fan recommendation? My Noctua S-12 is pretty quiet, but used for CPU cooling. Could I buy another and use it for the left side?
 
So I tried updating my BIOS but when I run the file it says it's not compatible with my version of windows 7 64bit, yet I downloaded the right file. It's either http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4050#ov or http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4765#ov and neither work.

According to CPU-Z I have F18, the latest is F20.

Anyway I want to buy an additional fan to keep my GPU cool. Right now it goes to 80c when rendering, I want to keep it cooler. Any recommendation in terms of where I should put the fan? I'm guessing I could put it on the left side panel? Any good fan recommendation? My Noctua S-12 is pretty quiet, but used for CPU cooling. Could I buy another and use it for the left side?

You don't update your BIOS through Windows, you update it through the BIOS.
 
Went to Microcenter.

Is this a good build for about $2300 (includes 2 year warranty on everything)
MOBO: Asus Maximus VII Hero
CPU: i7 4790k
GPU: GTX 780 ti
RAM: Crucial 16 GB 2 x 8 D3 CL9
HDD/SSD: WD Black 3.5 2TB/ Samsung Evo 850 pro 256GB
PSU: EVGA 750W ATX PSU
CASE: Nzxt h440
Should I change a few things since the 800 series comes out soon or just leave things as is?

Is there a specific reason you need an 850 Pro specifically over an MX100 or 840 Evo?

Whether it's a good build depends on what you want to do with it. How do you plan to use it?
 
Generally leave them be as most modern PCs only require 1-3 fans to operate at great temps. :P
I guess I'll just check out the temps and play around. I've had overheating issues in the past. Ambient temperatures are pretty toasty here all year round :(
 
But then why would it give this message? And how do I run the file?

You need to use the Flash program within your motherboard (most motherboards have an in-BIOS program with the word "flash" in it.) Download the file you need onto a thumb drive and plug it in while in BIOS. Run the flash program and follow on-screen directions.

As for fans, Noctuas are ugly as sin, but they are Grade A fans.
 
You need to use the Flash program within your motherboard (most motherboards have an in-BIOS program with the word "flash" in it.) Download the file you need onto a thumb drive and plug it in while in BIOS. Run the flash program and follow on-screen directions.

As for fans, Noctuas are ugly as sin, but they are Grade A fans.

Ok thanks. Still curious why it would say that specific message when running the file.
 
Ok thanks. Still curious why it would say that specific message when running the file.

That is odd, because I think I tried it once in Windows and it just gave me the generic "could not be opened blah blah" message.

You may want to make sure you downloaded the BIOS file as opposed to the Driver file from the drop down. I only mention this because I accidentally did it once.
 
So I got the itch to build a PC again, but can't justify a serious cash outlay until DDR4 and Maxwell, so I decided to transplant my home machine from a NZXT Phantom into a Cooler Master Storm Scout II I had laying around (bought it to build a friend's PC in, but they changed their mind and I figured I might use it later). The case is a bit of a downgrade, but the box it shipped in is smaller than the Phantom is and the handle is super convenient, so I call it a wash.

JOqaezy.png
 
Pretty sure I've gone insane because my current plan has me spending more on a CaseLabs case than I spent on my entire first computer (sans monitor).

Though, this will be probably the last case I ever buy as I plan to use it for all my future upgrades to my personal rig.
 
So I tried updating my BIOS but when I run the file it says it's not compatible with my version of windows 7 64bit, yet I downloaded the right file. It's either http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4050#ov or http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4765#ov and neither work.

According to CPU-Z I have F18, the latest is F20.

Anyway I want to buy an additional fan to keep my GPU cool. Right now it goes to 80c when rendering, I want to keep it cooler. Any recommendation in terms of where I should put the fan? I'm guessing I could put it on the left side panel? Any good fan recommendation? My Noctua S-12 is pretty quiet, but used for CPU cooling. Could I buy another and use it for the left side?

If you haven't already and want to flash it while running Windows... Download this and install it: http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Utility/motherboard_utility_atbios_x79.exe

Then the latest BIOS file ( http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-x79-ud3_v1.0_f20.zip or http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-x79-ud3_f20.zip <--- I don't know if it's even anything different. ), extract it and use the @BIOS utility you downloaded above to flash/update the bios.

Some people say it's riskier to do it in Windows, but I've yet to actually come across a case where flashing it in Windows was any worse than flashing it through any other means. Plus, a backup BIOS is already installed on your motherboard so it's not likely that you can permanently brick the motherboard.
 
So any other suggestions on what to use to test and push my new R9 270x, for temps and performance? I want to make sure I have enough cooling/air flow through the case.

I was just playing Sleeping Dogs maxed out, and the GPU hit 64 degrees after about 15 minutes of play, all the fans ramped up fine, system ran smooth. So I feel like that is a good place to be, but I just want to be sure. I am considering another case fan to help air flow, but out side of that I don't know of anything else I can do.
 
I guess I'll just check out the temps and play around. I've had overheating issues in the past. Ambient temperatures are pretty toasty here all year round :(

I have a vague recollection of a good article on a major PC hardware site that did some experimenting with case fans testing various combos of intakes and exhaust. They concluded that a good rule of thumb for cooler temps is essentially: "when in doubt, go for more exhaust"
 
Wow it feels so good to leave 2010 behind.
4790K
1 TB M550 SSD
16 GB RAM
Z97i Plus
Node 304
Questionable cable management
many noctua fans

this thing FLIES, need my games to download so I can feel the epicnessss.
Only issue is this MX brown keyboard might be too loud for our house LOL
 
I'm in a bit of a GPU pickle. I have roughly enough money to pursue a $1000 build and I use the PC Spreadsheet in the OP as a reference point, as well as eyeing the video tutorial by Tech Report since I'm a complete amateur at PCs. I managed to reduce the amount I have to pay on account of someone close to me giving me a free i5 though, so I'm hoping to splurge a bit more on a GPU. I'm thinking around the $300-400 range. Anyone got any suggestions on a good GPU to go with? The GTX 770 seems nice.

I don't know if it's important to mention but just to note I'm not entirely sure what kind of i5 it is yet, assuming that has an impact on the GPU. Also, what would be a good Mobo to go with it?
 
Pretty sure I've gone insane because my current plan has me spending more on a CaseLabs case than I spent on my entire first computer (sans monitor).

Though, this will be probably the last case I ever buy as I plan to use it for all my future upgrades to my personal rig.
Welcome to the club! Which one are you getting?
Wow it feels so good to leave 2010 behind.
4790K
1 TB M550 SSD
16 GB RAM
Z97i Plus
Node 304
Questionable cable management
many noctua fans

this thing FLIES, need my games to download so I can feel the epicnessss.
Only issue is this MX brown keyboard might be too loud for our house LOL
Grats! Time to upgrade to the clearly superior MX Reds :P
 
holy cow, what heatsink is that? It's art.

I got my rig up and running. Must say I love the 200R dearly. Cable management has come a long way since I last worked with a custom build. Not nearly done tidying up and it already looks twice as clean as my last PC inside.
Got a couple things still to be tossed in there and I really want to mod the case a bit for both form and function, but it's in working order... without a hitch actually, having transplanted my SSD. It just booted up into my windows installation like it missed me. o.O It's like I took the soul of my old pc and put it in a shiny new body. and upgraded its brain.

Now to hit MSI for BIOS and Drivers...

edit: Boot speed is ridiculous btw. ludicrous.
I have a vague recollection of a good article on a major PC hardware site that did some experimenting with case fans testing various combos of intakes and exhaust. They concluded that a good rule of thumb for cooler temps is essentially: "when in doubt, go for more exhaust"
Interesting, thanks. That was sort of my instinct, especially if I can get the front of the case more open for way better intake. This is the 200R's only real weakness IMO.

I suppose here's as good a place as any to ask actually. What are some solid safe idle and load temps for the 4960K, as someone who plans to OC it a bit?
 
holy cow, what heatsink is that? It's art.

The heatsink is the Xigmatek Thor's Hammer, which was sold as a fanless solution some years back in the LGA775 days that you could put fans on to overclock like a madman with. You can still buy it, but it's not cheap and you have to supply your own fans.

I love big shiny heatsinks, and the dark chrome finish matched the metal on the Gigabyte card, so I went with it. That said, the mounting solution could be charitably described as 'tedious' and there are better options out there for pure cooling performance. None of them have that look, tho.

Congrats on the new PC - looks sharp!
 
Thanks! Yeah, i'm not surprised that thing is a chore to get onto your CPU
KuGsj.gif
Really stands out though.

Arg, the moment I need one I can't find a usb stick lying around for the life of me. Didn't I have like 20 of these things? There doesn't really seem to be any other way to flash BIOS either for this mobo... except Live Update which I hear is a major no-no.
 
Anyone got any advice on buying an R9 280x that's has likely been used for coin mining for the last 2-3 months. Price is around £130, is it likely to crap out on me or for that price should I risk it?
 
are you kidding me...

found aa USB hard drive and put the bios on and used mflash. said bios installed successfully and then rebooted. now it won't boot. shows absolutely nothing on screen?

what? help please :( MSI Z97-G45 gaming

can't believe it. I had a perfectly running brand new system and just did what I thought I was supposed to do, now I'm back to having no pc... shouldn't have tried to fix what wasn't broken I guess. damn it.
 
When I said CUDA physics I was using it as a catch-all for custom and standard PhysX solutions. I wasn't trying to make a list of exhaustive features, only show that both companies provide unique features that appeal to various demographics. Freesync is obviously earlier in development than G-SYNC, but seems like the one more likely to pick up steam given that it requires no unique hardware and is open source. When I was talking about AMD being general purpose I was referring to the compute strength of the consumer cards. A 7950 frequently outperforms a Titan in some tests:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7481/the-amd-radeon-r9-290-review/14

Your statement about FreeSync is a little inaccurate, but you could well be right about its adoption. I feel like it's worth explaining some things to those interested in this tech and G-Sync.

A monitor supporting FreeSync will not require any proprietary AMD technology in it, this seems to be accurate to say. However, FreeSync is a proprietary, AMD-only feature that uses DisplayPort Adaptive-Sync as its base. The difference between FreeSync and G-Sync is that, in the case of FreeSync, the proprietary technology is confined to the GPU and software alone. FreeSync is not open-source.

Although the display wont need a G-Sync-style ASIC or FPGA, it will require a panel that has suitable properties to support the features of FreeSync. This will cost more than your average panel of similar type. So while the display cost could be less than a similar G-Sync display, the price will still be greater than that of a panel that supports neither technology. This from AMD's FAQ.

"However, dynamic refresh rate technologies like Project FreeSync depend on robust LCD panels capable of utilizing a wide range of refresh rates without demonstrating visual artifacts. Such LCD panels naturally cost more to manufacture and validate, potentially making them economically unsuitable for &#8203;especially cost-conscious monitor SKUs."

As of right now, we still don't know if the two technologies are directly comparable in all ways. G-Sync in its current form apparently has to poll the display, whereas FreeSync does not. Polling adds latency. Having said that, the reviews of the ROG Swift show that the response time of the display is excellent, so who knows whether that matters in real world use. FreeSync can support refresh rates as low as 17Hz, whereas G-Sync's low end is 30Hz. FreeSync displays are still some way from being available, so we wont know how the two approaches compare for months yet.
 
are you kidding me...

found aa USB hard drive and put the bios on and used mflash. said bios installed successfully and then rebooted. now it won't boot. shows absolutely nothing on screen?

what? help please :( MSI Z97-G45 gaming

can't believe it. I had a perfectly running brand new system and just did what I thought I was supposed to do, now I'm back to having no pc... shouldn't have tried to fix what wasn't broken I guess. damn it.
Go through the steps in the second post [HELP MY COMPUTER WON'T TURN ON].

"Shows nothing" is not descriptive. Mobo light on? Fans turn? HDD powers on? Beeps?

My guess is that you just need to move the Video cable back and forth from mobo/GPU or reset the GPU if you didn't mention the above.
 
Go through the steps in the second post [HELP MY COMPUTER WON'T TURN ON].

"Shows nothing" is not descriptive. Mobo light on? Fans turn? HDD powers on? Beeps?

My guess is that you just need to move the Video cable back and forth from mobo/GPU or reset the GPU if you didn't mention the above.
Sorry for not being descriptive,

I meant it appears to simply be outputting no video, though of course I can't say for sure. Front panel lights come on (I don't know if there is a light on the mobo itself, didn't notice one), fans spin. only drive in there is an SSD so I can't tell if it's coming on, but the system sounds just like it did when booting up before. No beeps-nor were there any during the many successful POSTs prior to flashing the BIOS.

I need to get some sleep so I have shut down but I appreciate any advice for the morning.

What is the ideal video cable aarrangement after fresh BIOS? I had hdmi into the GPU. I tried moving it into the motherboard hdmi slot, and then VGA to VGA. Should I try DVD? when you say reset the GPU, just take it out and put it back in the same PCIE slot? Maybe I should try booting with no GPU
 
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