"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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Building a system from scratch and was offered an untouched 1TB WD Caviar Green from a friend as opposed to the 1TB WD Caviar Blue I was planning on buying. Is there really any difference with the two that makes it worth buying the Blue over getting the Green for free?
 
He has just enough money for a 290x and a PSU that goes for around $100.

So instead of getting a 290X grab the 290 and a decent PSU. What price is the 290X he's looking at?

Building a system from scratch and was offered an untouched 1TB WD Caviar Green from a friend as opposed to the 1TB WD Caviar Blue I was planning on buying. Is there really any difference with the two that makes it worth buying the Blue over getting the Green for free?

If it's free go for it.
 
Question:

If my Mobo has 1xFront Panel header or 1x USB 2.0/3.0 header and my case has 2 USB 3.0 Ports and 2 USB 2.0 Ports on the front, will it run all of the ports or do I need a better mobo?

This is the Mobo's specifications and this is the case's.
A single USB 3 header runs 2 USB 3 ports and a single USB 2 header runs 2 USB 2 ports, so you are fine.
 
Does anyone have a suggestion for raising the PC tower off of the floor? I've ordered a third fan for my Fractal case and I'm going to have it pulling air up from under the case, towards my graphics card. However, my case is sat under my desk on some laminated flooring. There's not much room between it and the floor (however big the feet are... 1 or 2cm?), so I wanted to raise it higher. Plus, I have a small dog that likes to explore, so the closer it is to the ground the more dog hairs it'll pull in (and clog the dust filter).

I'm toying with the idea of just four wooden blocks/slabs of wood, but that's a ghetto and slightly unsecured way. At the same time, I don't want to ruin the aesthetics of the case.
 
Does anyone have a suggestion for raising the PC tower off of the floor? I've ordered a third fan for my Fractal case and I'm going to have it pulling air up from under the case, towards my graphics card. However, my case is sat under my desk on some laminated flooring. There's not much room between it and the floor (however big the feet are... 1 or 2cm?), so I wanted to raise it higher. Plus, I have a small dog that likes to explore, so the closer it is to the ground the more dog hairs it'll pull in (and clog the dust filter).

I'm toying with the idea of just four wooden blocks/slabs of wood, but that's a ghetto and slightly unsecured way. At the same time, I don't want to ruin the aesthetics of the case.
It's fine as is. That's what the filter is for.
 
Are you using the power switch on the case itself, or are you bridging the two power pins on the board? It could potentially just be the case swtich...

I wish, but I tried bridging the power pins with a screwdriver... Still nothing.

Thankfully I'm still within 30 days of the invoice from NCIX so I can deal with them and not gigabyte, that should speed things up a bit.
 
I think I have a virus on my computer and have decided to re-install Windows 7.

But how do I make a clean install without getting a Windows.old folder afterward?
 
Does anyone have a suggestion for raising the PC tower off of the floor? I've ordered a third fan for my Fractal case and I'm going to have it pulling air up from under the case, towards my graphics card. However, my case is sat under my desk on some laminated flooring. There's not much room between it and the floor (however big the feet are... 1 or 2cm?), so I wanted to raise it higher. Plus, I have a small dog that likes to explore, so the closer it is to the ground the more dog hairs it'll pull in (and clog the dust filter).

I'm toying with the idea of just four wooden blocks/slabs of wood, but that's a ghetto and slightly unsecured way. At the same time, I don't want to ruin the aesthetics of the case.

Id just not run the fan, bet you will notice no difference.
 
It looks like AMD is the best thing to get when it comes to price/performance GPU's. Are there any disadvantages going for AMD though? Microstuttering, drivers, etc compared to Nvidia?
 
It looks like AMD is the best thing to get when it comes to price/performance GPU's. Are there any disadvantages going for AMD though? Microstuttering, drivers, etc compared to Nvidia?

Nvidia tends to be better with Day 0 support for drivers still if games are to have any issues, and they have a more mature software ecosystem.

Driver stability with AMD is fine though, and they've addressed their microstutter issues even with Crossfire (bar DX9).

You'll not go wrong with either.
 
Sorry if I sound like a complete dumbass. But does replacing a processor literally just come down to popping the old one out and putting the new one? Or is there more to it?
 
Okay screw the all-watercooling idea, I ain't got the time or money for that noise.

My focus is the same though: quiet and small. I have a full tower right now and while it looks great, I can't deal with that size anymore.

The Corsair Carbine Air 240 looks really slick, and the micro ATX is something I hadn't considered. I'd hook an H100i up to the processor assuming it can use the two vents and keep the front and the back just running on fans, will they sound loud? I know the case isn't out yet so these questions are probably left unanswered, but hey, maybe someone knows.
 
Sorry if I sound like a complete dumbass. But does replacing a processor literally just come down to popping the old one out and putting the new one? Or is there more to it?

If its the same socket then yes, youll need a fresh application of thermal paste too, unless using the Intel/AMD cooler supplied with the new CPU.

If its a different socket, then you need a new motherboard, and in most cases resintall of windows.

Okay screw the all-watercooling idea, I ain't got the time or money for that noise.

My focus is the same though: quiet and small. I have a full tower right now and while it looks great, I can't deal with that size anymore.

The Corsair Carbine Air 240 looks really slick, and the micro ATX is something I hadn't considered. I'd hook an H100i up to the processor assuming it can use the two vents and keep the front and the back just running on fans, will they sound loud? I know the case isn't out yet so these questions are probably left unanswered, but hey, maybe someone knows.

Wont be loud, but itll be slighty louder than a system which was just air cooled with all fans at 6-800rpm in both scenarios. Mainly due to the hum of the pump (which cannot be slowed down on the AIO units).

Did you not look at the basic EK/XSPC kits, they are actually really easy to put togethor. Takes time, but its not difficult, then after the first time its easy as pie. On the noise front, depending on the pump it can be a little quieter, but of course better performance. These loops let you either undervolt pumps, or yu can even get PWM ones that change speed with CPU temp.

Heres my rig with an EK 120 Kit, CPU is 3960X at 4.8Ghz. Case is Lian Li PC-354B,

928291_1435971046670965_839378144_n.jpg

These EK DCP pumps are a bit rubbish though, they have a slight buzzing noise, been through 2 of them, both same crap. Performance is few degres better than the H80i i had before, but these rad fans are at 1600rpm (under stress test) and H80i was 2400rpm.

Another option for a case is the Silverstone TJ08E.
 
Wont be loud, but itll be slighty louder than a system which was just air cooled with all fans at 6-800rpm in both scenarios. Mainly due to the hum of the pump (which cannot be slowed down on the AIO units).

Did you not look at the basic EK/XSPC kits, they are actually really easy to put togethor. Takes time, but its not difficult, then after the first time its easy as pie. On the noise front, depending on the pump it can be a little quieter, but of course better performance. These loops let you either undervolt pumps, or yu can even get PWM ones that change speed with CPU temp.

Heres my rig with an EK 120 Kit, CPU is 3960X at 4.8Ghz. Case is Lian Li PC-354B,



These EK DCP pumps are a bit rubbish though, they have a slight buzzing noise, been through 2 of them, both same crap. Performance is few degres better than the H80i i had before, but these rad fans are at 1600rpm (under stress test) and H80i was 2400rpm.

Another option for a case is the Silverstone TJ08E.

Thanks for the info, I definitely will look into those. I'll be the first to admit that I can't make heads or tails of your case, though I love how compact it is. Where's the graphics card? I'd be trying to fit a full-size 880 into mine, when the time comes
 
Thanks for the info, I definitely will look into those. I'll be the first to admit that I can't make heads or tails of your case, though I love how compact it is. Where's the graphics card? I'd be trying to fit a full-size 880 into mine, when the time comes

Doubt the 880 will be as big as my Asus 5870, its 279mm. GTX 780 Windforce is 292mm.

The Lian Li wont fit a 240mm rad without removing both the bottom and top drive cage. So 120mm rad is the biggest if you want to install a HDD (up to 3) like me. As the case is quite wide, i have an SSD behind the HDD cage, and one under the bottom HDD. So that 2 SSDs, 3 HDDs, full length GPU.

Also my radiator is the EK Coolstream PE, its 38mm, then a 38mm push fan and 25mm pull fan. Thats a total of 111mm width of rad, then about 20mm gap to the GPU. More than enough room for any GPU, push pull setup is probably unnecessary too.
 
Has anyone from the UK ordered a BenQ XL2411Z 144Hz monitor and received it with the V2 firmware pre-installed, and if so, from where? It seems like it's a lottery whether you get one or not.

Does it even matter? I'm pretty set on getting a high refresh rate monitor and the price on this is the cheapest while also having some great reviews, but am I right in thinking you need the V2 firmware in order to take advantage of motion blur reduction utilities, or is it still a top monitor even without all that?
 
Probably (read: definitely) a stupid thing to ask, but I'm vaguely tempted to pull the trigger on this instead of waiting for the release of the 800 series. I know I probably should just suck it up and wait until September, but it seems like the actual release isn't going to happen until at least October and even at that point I'm not sure what happens. Been waiting to upgrade my card for ages and it feels like the rumblings about the inevitable release of the 800 series has been going on for quite some time. I'm starting to think that unless an 880 is a solid 30-40% increase in performance over the 780, I might just buy a 780 and stop waiting.

/uninformedrambling.
 
Doubt the 880 will be as big as my Asus 5870, its 279mm. GTX 780 Windforce is 292mm.

The Lian Li wont fit a 240mm rad without removing both the bottom and top drive cage. So 120mm rad is the biggest if you want to install a HDD (up to 3) like me. As the case is quite wide, i have an SSD behind the HDD cage, and one under the bottom HDD. So that 2 SSDs, 3 HDDs, full length GPU.

Also my radiator is the EK Coolstream PE, its 38mm, then a 38mm push fan and 25mm pull fan. Thats a total of 111mm width of rad, then about 20mm gap to the GPU. More than enough room for any GPU, push pull setup is probably unnecessary too.

I actually am going to not have an HDD, and instead get a 1TB SSD, so I don't think I'll need those HDD cages? That means I could get a 240 rad on top for the CPU and just rely in fans for the rest, right? Assuming I get the same case
 
I actually am going to not have an HDD, and instead get a 1TB SSD, so I don't think I'll need those HDD cages? That means I could get a 240 rad on top for the CPU and just rely in fans for the rest, right? Assuming I get the same case

Yeah that should work, worst case you may have to remove the DVD drive cage too.one more thing, the fans aren't mounted to the case via screws on the front of the case. The screws are longer than normal for the fans and only screw partially into the fan, the remaining portion has a rubber ring which allows the fan to slide into the mounting holes. Hard to explain, but the fan holes on the front part of the case have a large portion and a small portion, you push the fan into the large portion then slide the fan along the chassis so the rubber slides and locks into the small portion. Just need to make sure you have a way to secure the rads, I used a strip of Velcro and it's tightly sandwiched with the HDD cage above. So take the 8 special screws off the original fans and screw then into the rad fans, then screw the rad fans onto the rad, then slide it in.

Why aren't you going for mITX? Fractal Node 304, EVGA Hadron are ones to look at. I guess cooling is compromised, but if your going with Haswell then you have to delid anyways to do anything decent, and after delid a Hyper 212 Evo works great.
 
Well this is embarrassing. I think I fucked myself over completely on my first time building this PC.

I had to replug the case's Audio cable from my Mobo to my new sound card. I accidentally yanked it though and the end that was concealed somewhere in the front of the case came flying out. The connectors are still wholly intact but I have no idea where the hell I plug it in.

Using an Arc Midi R2 case. How fucked am I?


Disregard, I am a moron who didn't realize how much empty space was made once I temporarily removed the optimal disc drive.
 
My fiance wants to have her own pc for gaming (Dragon Age 3) and work. I would offer to do the research and build it since I did that for my own PC but right we're really really busy now (building furniture and other moving together stuff that we've been doing for 3 months now to get the whole living together situation comfortable) and I'd rather she just spends a few bucks more and buys a custom-built PC online that we can get shipped to us. She's down with that.

Her budget is about $1,000. What's the best site to get pre-built custom pc's and what should she be looking at for that price range?
 
Is there a big difference between laser and optical mice?

I've had a logitech G9x for years now, and was thinking of getting something different. I was looking at the steel series rival as listed in the OP, but noticed it was optical as opposed to laser.

EDIT:

After trying out the Rival, I didn't really like it that much. I think it was almost too big for my hand? That said, I really want a wireless mouse. Does anyone have any input on the Logitech G602 or the G700s? The G602 is a tad cheaper, but I saw the G700s was in the OP.
 
I'm gonna try reinstalling Windows 7 now and see if everything will be intact on all of my internal hard drives.

Best to only have the HDD plugged in which you are about to install windows on. Prevents any mishaps and makes sure the boot loader is installed to the desired drive.
 
Nvidia

You have my attention.

Same here. I ended up sending my 3 Titan Black Hydro's back to Amazon because for 4k gaming, there was still some challenges with some games, not many but some. Investing in 3 of those right now was not wise, even though the wife approved of it. So now, I am in the waiting game for the "next big gpu". I really want something powerful enough to run at 4k/60fps with all the bells and whistles. I still don't believe that on GPU alone will do it, but I am fine with SLI, so if it takes 2 of them, then that is fine by me! :)
 
Ok, nm, looked at the prices of custom-build PCs and decided to just build it myself.



So I clicked on the Haz's PC builds and used Newegg and the prices are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay off. Like I tried doing the $1070 build but upgrading the card to a 580GTX (and the power supply) for an additional $200-300. But my cart right now before shipping and tax is saying: $1,605.89 which is even more than the $1,485 build with less stuff in it!! wtf. Have prices skyrocketed on some stuff since that spreadsheet was made in June?

Need to pair this $1,605.89 down to around $1,000.00.
 
My PSU fans only spin with the paper clip test.

I plug it into the Motherboard (with just CPU in and the two power connectors) and nothing. Not a beep, not even a little twitch on the fans.

..... My motherboard is fried isn't it? I've only had this comp for like 2 weeks ffs.

It's a gigabyte z97mx gaming 5 for what it's worth.

Quoting myself just to check if anyone else has any ideas. I don't have a multimeter so I can't check the voltage coming out of my PSU, but the fact that the Mobo doesn't even TRY and power up makes me think it's the culprit.
 
Ok, nm, looked at the prices of custom-build PCs and decided to just build it myself.



So I clicked on the Haz's PC builds and used Newegg and the prices are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay off. Like I tried doing the $1070 build but upgrading the card to a 580GTX (and the power supply) for an additional $200-300. But my cart right now before shipping and tax is saying: $1,605.89 which is even more than the $1,485 build with less stuff in it!! wtf. Have prices skyrocketed on some stuff since that spreadsheet was made in June?

Need to pair this $1,605.89 down to around $1,000.00.

Haz's build for $1070 using GTX 760, why would you change it to GTX 580?? 760 is mostly better than 580. more efficient too
 
Ok, nm, looked at the prices of custom-build PCs and decided to just build it myself.



So I clicked on the Haz's PC builds and used Newegg and the prices are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay off. Like I tried doing the $1070 build but upgrading the card to a 580GTX (and the power supply) for an additional $200-300. But my cart right now before shipping and tax is saying: $1,605.89 which is even more than the $1,485 build with less stuff in it!! wtf. Have prices skyrocketed on some stuff since that spreadsheet was made in June?

Need to pair this $1,605.89 down to around $1,000.00.

580 is worse.

OP prices are fine.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($231.91 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($136.00 @ Amazon)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Red 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($55.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($55.24 @ Amazon)
Total: $949.08
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-17 19:24 EDT-0400
 
Whoops I meant 780 and I see where I went wrong. Ordered the stuff was like $1,100 after shipping/tax.


Then totally forgot she needs a monitor, keyboard/mouse & headphones too! >_< Will grab those on another order.
 
Quick question, how do I know if my PSU is failing?

My hardware wattage is well under what my PSU is rated at, but I get shut downs with games like Crysis 3 and pCARS (>1hr of play). Games like The Witcher 2 and Sniper Elite 3 do not cause any problems, no matter how long I play.
 
Best to only have the HDD plugged in which you are about to install windows on. Prevents any mishaps and makes sure the boot loader is installed to the desired drive.
Yeah I'll do that. But won't it require me to format the hard drives again to be recognisable by Windows when it have been reinstalled?
 
Is the ASUS VG248QE the best monitor at the $300 range?

Canadian pricing if that matters.

Depends on what you value but in my readings online people actually think the BenQ 144hz monitors are nicer than the Asus. I don't remember which model people liked from BenQ maybe this?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...14376&ef_id=Uj0BhwAAAD78Z8SE:20140817233816:s

Anyways back to what I was saying about depending on what you value. For $300 you can get Korean PLS 1440p monitors. Better image quality/color reproduction and resolution, but you have lower refresh rate, lower response time, and likely your return/repair options were something to go wrong will be painful. Just recently newegg was even selling their evo II's at $290. However without that sale you would likely have to get one on ebay to fit in the $300 range, but it can certainly be done.
 
Yeah that should work, worst case you may have to remove the DVD drive cage too.one more thing, the fans aren't mounted to the case via screws on the front of the case. The screws are longer than normal for the fans and only screw partially into the fan, the remaining portion has a rubber ring which allows the fan to slide into the mounting holes. Hard to explain, but the fan holes on the front part of the case have a large portion and a small portion, you push the fan into the large portion then slide the fan along the chassis so the rubber slides and locks into the small portion. Just need to make sure you have a way to secure the rads, I used a strip of Velcro and it's tightly sandwiched with the HDD cage above. So take the 8 special screws off the original fans and screw then into the rad fans, then screw the rad fans onto the rad, then slide it in.

Why aren't you going for mITX? Fractal Node 304, EVGA Hadron are ones to look at. I guess cooling is compromised, but if your going with Haswell then you have to delid anyways to do anything decent, and after delid a Hyper 212 Evo works great.

First I want to say thank you for the help. I've built a couple PCs but I get more detail-oriented with each one, and it's people like you who help with that. Hopefully I can pay it forward

I'm hoping to just keep my i5-3570k ivy bridge and move it into a smaller mobo, since I've had no problems with it and don't see a real reason to upgrade from that. Watercooling, like I said, is a noise preference versus super-serious overclocking so that holds the appeal over a 212. As for mATX vs mITX, I actually don't know the difference between them so I can't give a solid answer on why I chose one over the other. What's the deal with them?
 
Need recommendation for Cable Modem
Motorola SB-6141. It's frequently on sale on Newegg and it's pretty great except for the weird diffused look you get from the front LEDs (and maybe the white color, if you care about that).

Remember to double check to see if this one is on your ISP's supported modem list.
 
I asked this last time, but I guess no one answered.

Is this a good deal for 500 dollars: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=125738780&postcount=17363

I don't know much about building computers, so buying is the only option for me, I guess.

I wouldn't. That is not going to be very ideal for anything except low-mid end as a gaming machine....

How much are you looking to spend on a PC? You should consider building one....it is really easy and there are a million knowledgable people here to help you. You will get so much more bang for your buck that way....and have a great time doing it.

Don't worry about not knowing much....we were all in that spot once! I suggest you maybe start off by watching the PC building video at techreport.com....then you will see that it is easy to do and not scary.

....and the peeps in this thread will help you make a gaming build to fit whatever your budget is.
 
I decided to go ahead and make room in my case for my inbound CPU and Mobo.
Thanks based Mkenyon.

I didn't want the old CPU and mobo to sit around unused so i decided to replace the laptop I'd been using as my HTPC. I pulled the HDD from it and got to work.

I'd seen open air builds before and really liked the idea of a wall mounted PC, so I looked through my toolbox for various supplies.


I started by placing the mobo on my backing and marking the mounting holes with a sharpie.

I then started small holes and screwed plastic snap-on spacers with fix-all adhesive to ensure they stayed put. Then i just had to snap the mobo down onto the plastic tabs once the glue had dried.

I then modified a couple of gate hinges I happend to have and grabbed a wayward bracket.

I removed a couple of fan screws from the PSU and secured the modified hinges to create a makeshift shelf, then attached the small bracket to one of the normal mounting points to hold it in place.



I didn't realize my HDD tray had shifted while I was forcing wood screws through it until it was too late. It's mounted a little crooked, but that just adds character.
I can't fix that, but I'll make it look a little neater overall before I'm done. This isn't where it's going to stay, I just moved a piece of art that had mounts that could hold it.


I'm posting from it now, it's working great. I finally found a use for the crappy PSU that came with my case.

I realize it would look better with the connections on the side, but this way all of the words on the mobo are right-side up.
 
It might be that the capacitors aren't providing quite enough power on boot and need to take longer to charge. What psu and full specs of your pc.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($74.23 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($84.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($55.98 @ OutletPC)
Case: Rosewill Challenger-U3 ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $455.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-17 21:18 EDT-0400

The psu is EVGA 500B 500W 80PLUS Bronze Certified

No GPU yet
 
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