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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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tarheel91

Member
A Noctua D15 performs almost equal to a top end AIO water cooler. I, myself, went from a Noctua U12S to a Cryorig R1 Ultimate air cooler which performs only slightly worse than the D15, but I prefer it's looks more. Anyway, my 5930K@4.2GHz with 1.17V is ~70Cs. Just jumping to 4.3GHz, it requires 1.26V and temps raises to low 90Cs. I tried 4.4GHz@1.32V for a split sec and almost hit 100C. I am staying at 4.2GHz because the jump beyond gets crazy hot. Really, if you want to hit 4.4-4.5GHz, you are going to need a very good custom water setup.

I've got a 420mm radiator with three Noctua PWM 1300RPM fans and my 4820k is getting up to high 70s low 80s package, high 60s low 70s core set to 4.4@1.275V depending on ambient. Should probably have gone with higher speed fans as I can't even hear them at full speed over the 295X2 fan at idle (which is still pretty quiet). I've got them spinning 350RPM at idle and my cores are 1-5C over ambient. That makes me happy. Not sure if package temps significantly higher than the core temps is a good thing, but it is what it is.

But yes, heat grows exponentially after a certain point, and stopping right before the neck is usually the best idea.
 

Hindl

Member
For your standard gaming rig they are not worth it. For multi GPU setups with 3 or more cards and some sort of video editing machine, then it can be worth it.

Would you still say this for DK2 development? The MicroCenter by me has i7 5820K for $299.99 and I could pick up an MSI X99 mobo with it for like $530, which is around, if not better, than prices I'm finding for the 4790K. Right now I'm getting 1 970 but I plan on SLI soon, but should I go with the 4790K to save some money?
 
I'm considering returning the 1TB Samsung 840 Evo when it arrives and go with a different drive. If there was an ETA for the firmware fix I'd hold on to it but since returning it would be effortless at this point, I think that may be my best choice,
 
Hey guys, did I make a mistake on the Cooler? Should I of went with water cooling instead?

I want to ask is whether I should of went with Water Cooling and a different Mobo(better overclocking), I'm hoping the I7 5820K can reach 4.4GHZ at least, preferably 4..5GHZ.

I worry because I've seen some posts around the net and i7 5820K seems to be having issues going over 4.0-4.2 GHZ.

Mordecai, Have you overclocked your i7 5820K yet?

This is my partial system, the main components:

PC Case : Cooler Master CM Storm Trooper Full Tower Case with Side Window $199.00
CPU Processor: Intel Core i7 5820K Haswell-E 6-Core LGA 2011-3 3.3GHz $449.00
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X99-UD4 $399.00
Memory: Crucial 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 2133MHz $269.00
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000W P2 $299
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 Multi-Socket PWM CPU Cooler $109.00



Thanks.

EDIT: The i7 5960X is $1200 while the i7 5930K is $679, so to get the i7 5930K it would be $200 more, I'm already over my budget.

However I'll be willing to pay an extra $30-50 for a water cooling solution, however I'm hoping the Noctua can pull of 4.4GHZ-4.5GHZ.

Yep, currently sitting at 4.2GHz, thinking about raising it to 4.5 because it still says fairly cool under Prime95. I'm on 1.1v, this thing is overclocking much better than I would have thought it would!
 

tarheel91

Member
Yep, currently sitting at 4.2GHz, thinking about raising it to 4.5 because it still says fairly cool under Prime95. I'm on 1.1v, this thing is overclocking much better than I would have thought it would!

I wouldn't go straight there. I went from 58C to 72C going from 4.2 to 4.4.
 

xBladeM6x

Member
Managed to snag a 980, finally. I'm too excited for this, as I have been putting games on hold, just so I can play them at max first time around, and I'm upgrading from a 660 Ti. :3
 

Rootbeer

Banned
I want to make sure the PC i am building will be Oculus-ready once it hits retail. Assuming everything else is up to snuff, is a single GTX 970 not going to be enough? Does Oculus play well with SLI if I just got two 970s? Or would 980 be a better way to go.
 

crunozaurus

Neo Member
Anyone is running GTX 780 DirectCu II SLI? 780 prices dropped and I might have a good deal on second Asus GPU, for my dual GPU configuration. My PSU should handle it ezpz.

The only thing I am concerned are temperatures. My case is quite well ventilated and I have a spare fan for side panel in case it would be needed. Is non-reference SLI (780 DirectCu II) a good idea? Can I keep it cool and relatively silent? (<70% fan speed on this GPU is what I am okay with) Ideally, I would like to OC both cards to ~1200MHz@boost (mine is currently running 1250)
 
I wouldn't go straight there. I went from 58C to 72C going from 4.2 to 4.4.

I got my processor running at 4.5GHz on 1.25v. I ran Prime95, temperatures topped out at 80C. Keep in mind that I have a silent case, the NZXT H440.

Just for fun I took the front and top panels off to simulate having a high airflow case such as a HAF X, my temperatures dropped down to a flat 70C and never went up beyond that.

I'm more than happy to trade temps for silence in this case since 4.2 is going to be my daily overclock, but it was nice to know that 4.5 is easily doable for normal workloads if I really wanted to.

Edit: This is with a Corsair H110 cooler with Rosewill Hyperborea fans on it.
 

knitoe

Member
Thanks man, that is kind of sad to hear...I mean 4.2GHZ is nothing to sneeze at, however I need to ask a stupid question, how much of a performance hit will I get going from i7 2600K@4.5GHZ to i7 5820K@4.2-4.3GHZ gaming wise?

The results for the Temps you posted, you used Prime 95 right? Never exceeded say 75C?

Thanks again Knitoe.
My 5930K@4.2GHz is faster than 2600K@4.5GHz. A higher frequency doesn't along tell the story. Clock for clock, Haswell-E is 8% faster than Ivy Bridge-E which translate to 300-500MHz. Plus, you also need to add in the Ivy Bridge is 10% faster than Sandy Bridge.

And, YES, those temps are under Prime95.
 

tarheel91

Member
I got my processor running at 4.5GHz on 1.25v. I ran Prime95, temperatures topped out at 80C. Keep in mind that I have a silent case, the NZXT H440.

Just for fun I took the front and top panels off to simulate having a high airflow case such as a HAF X, my temperatures dropped down to a flat 70C and never went up beyond that.

I'm more than happy to trade temps for silence in this case since 4.2 is going to be my daily overclock, but it was nice to know that 4.5 is easily doable for normal workloads if I really wanted to.

Edit: This is with a Corsair H110 cooler with Rosewill Hyperborea fans on it.

I'm 4.4@1.275. Damn chip lottery.
 

Smokey

Member
You planning on moving to 9xx series Smokey? (Can't remember your build)

I have three Titan Blacks. This Classified is for a friend.

I've thought of selling one Black, moving the remaining two into my backup rig, and plugging 3x 970s or 980s in my main. Or wait for Big Dog Maxwell.I'm undecided at the moment. Doing a lot of reading of reviews and user impressions.
 

xBladeM6x

Member
I have three Titan Blacks. This Classified is for a friend.

I've thought of selling one Black, moving the remaining two into my backup rig, and plugging 3x 970s or 980s in my main. Or wait for Big Dog Maxwell.I'm undecided at the moment. Doing a lot of reading of reviews and user impressions.

Ah, that's right. Lol. I'm wondering what kind of real world boost in performance I should expect when going from a 660 Ti -> 980 when playing games like BF4 Ultra / Metro / Crysis and things of that nature.

Big Dog Maxwell got a laugh out of me for some reason. Lol
 

Ravijn

Member
can this case fit a H100i?
It's got 2x 120mm fan support on top but pcpartpicker says its not compatible with my cpu cooler.

Take a look here - Link

Not much room but it looks like it fits.

K0fosJC.jpg
 

yatesl

Member
I'm 'concerned' about my temps. Currently my PC idles at about 40c, sometimes jumping up to 50c for no reason. I'm sure this wasn't the case last year, when it was around 30c. It's not super warm in England right now (currently about 20c, according to weather sites), and it's not super warm in my room either (just comfortable). Here's some photos I've just taken from inside my PC:



Now, I don't think cable management is an issue. I have 2 fans intaking from the front, and one exhausting to the back. The exhaust is maybe 4~5cm from the wall, so quite close but there's room for air to escape. I picture air coming in from the front, over the HDD, either passing the GPU (that idles at ~50c) or sucking up in to the fan, going through the CPU and then out the back.

My CPU is an i5-4670k, running at 4.2GHz with a vcore of 1.23v. Running Prime95 takes it to ~95c, but Aida only takes it to 65~70c.

Are these to be concerned with? I'm having no crashes, but I just wonder why the temps have gone up ~10c in a year. I doubt the LED strip is giving off that much heat, and I really don't want to remount the cooler with new thermal paste.

Well I finally got round to replacing the thermal paste and reseating the heatsink, but the temps are no different - maybe I'm just terrible at putting on thermal paste (or fitting the cooler - I hate doing that).

Never mind, I can live with 35-40c idle temps I guess. Maybe I'm comparing it to winter last year, or something.
 

knitoe

Member
Well I finally got round to replacing the thermal paste and reseating the heatsink, but the temps are no different - maybe I'm just terrible at putting on thermal paste (or fitting the cooler - I hate doing that).

Never mind, I can live with 35-40c idle temps I guess. Maybe I'm comparing it to winter last year, or something.
Ambient temps makes a big difference. If you can't control the temps, yes, seasonal temperature changes will have a big affect.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
I'm about to move an internal HDD from one computer to another. I've already backed up or uninstalled everything on it. Any other precautions I need to take? It's an HDD I've been using for a few years now.
 
Yep, currently sitting at 4.2GHz, thinking about raising it to 4.5 because it still says fairly cool under Prime95. I'm on 1.1v, this thing is overclocking much better than I would have thought it would!

Cool sounds good, that is the h110 correct? I was thinking of switching my Noctua NH-D15 for the Corsair 100i,would that be ill advised?

The H110 is out of stock and ETA at my local store is October 3rd, I cant wait as I need it ASAP.

I like the Noctua, however the fact it blocks the first expansion slot on the mobo and is lacking memory clearance in dual-fan mode is kind of putting me off.
 

NeOak

Member
So looking at that 3770k at microcenter for $250 atm for my Z87 to replace a i5-2400 and get a case with a good CPU cooler now.

Should I jump? I only have a 7970 GE anyway. I may even get DDR3-2133 too.
 

xBladeM6x

Member
So looking at that 3770k at microcenter for $250 atm for my Z87 to replace a i5-2400 and get a case with a good CPU cooler now.

Should I jump? I only have a 7970 GE anyway. I may even get DDR3-2133 too.

Yes. I use a 3770k, and it's still completely OP for gaming.
 
Hey guys what are normal temps for the i7 4790k? I have an evo 212 on it and it idles around 28-31c. I also ran the stress test using the intel extreme test utility and was mostly between 60-70 in the couple minutes I ran it. I think the highest was 72
 

Durante

Member
My new PC is up and running now. One of my HDDs didn't survive the migration, but it didn't contain any important data. Still, that means I'm down to just 6TB of HDD space and 750 GB of SSD space :p

Anyway, a few points:
  • The Jonsbo UMX2 is a beautiful and well-designed case, but it's not designed for easy installation. It was a real pain to get everything built compared to my previous case (which was the Lian Li PC-P50 - admittedly, the best implementation of tool-less installation I've ever seen by a large margin.
  • However, if you do invest some time during installation it really allows you to do a neat job, and you end up with one of the most compact, but nonetheless well ventilated, full-size ATX builds. it also does a fantastic job at decoupling any possible source of vibrations.
  • In terms of OC, I initially failed to even OC to 4 GHz (on my 5820k) without increasing voltage. However, then I updated my UEFI (doing that simply by clicking a button inside it which does the download and patching is unbelievably convenient for someone who remembers booting a DOS floppy for the same purpose :p), and afterwards it's been rock solid at 4Ghz even at base voltage. I get 71° maximum after 20 minutes full load with with prime and other usual tests, and 80° with the heaviest, hottest AVX2 test I could find. During normal game loads, it's <<65°. That seems perfectly acceptable as a long-term clock to me.
  • Windows 7 is pretty impressive. Moving from a 5 year old build to this one: boot, install new chipset drivers, no issues at all.

And a few images...

Front - I think it's pretty clean considering the space restrictions, and the fact that it houses 3 PCIe cards, 3 HDDs and 3 SSDs:
20140918_221805gbpui.jpg


Back (before going to work with cable zippers - lots of them):
20140918_215335ijqw5.jpg

Note the stacked SSDs :p

Whole thing:
20140919_141534q6q6w.jpg

The only point that disturbs me is the front panel audio cable hanging in the air right in the front. But it needs to go to the sound card, so I don't think there's much I can do about that.
 

Durante

Member
Could you go into more detail about the difficulty building inside that case?
Sure, here are a few points:
  • Putting the PSU in its box (secured by 8 screws in total) and then sliding it into place while getting all the cables in/out of it where you want them to be is somewhat challenging.
  • The above is made worse if you have a modular power supply, think you know what cables you need, and then notice that your PSUs SATA power plugs don't work for the SSDs mounted on the back of the mainboard tray, as they need a mm or so of vertical space. (This happened to me, so I had to remove and re-install the PSU with a different cable attached, now I use molex adapters to straight SATA power plugs)
  • You basically need to connect the front panel stuff and things like front USB2 headers -- anything towards the bottom of the MB -- before putting it in. Or alternatively, remove both bottom fans to do it. And then reinstall them with everything else already inside, which requires a right angle screw driving tool (luckily I have one).

None of this is really a design error, it's just a result of the compact size and design of the case. And once you've got everything in it's beautiful.

I just wouldn't suggest this case to anyone looking to get a new build every year. Since I don't plan to do more than change the GPU or get an M.2 SSD and maybe more RAM over then next 5 or 6 years it's perfect for me.

Where is the PSU?

/Looks great BTW
It's vertically mounted in the front, with all the power cables going to the other side.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
No idea, it just died.

From my experience, it's just what HDDs do, sadly. Can't wait until solid state memory is cheap enough to completely get rid of them.

So I should just take the thing out, drop it in the new computer, and hope it doesn't die in the process?
 

Durante

Member
So I should just take the thing out, drop it in the new computer, and hope it doesn't die in the process?
Yes. Though the "dropping" should only be done as a figure of speech ;)

Personally, I've moved about 15 mechanical HDDs between computers, this is the first time one has died doing so (and the fourth time I've had a HDD die in total).
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Yes. Though the "dropping" should only be done as a figure of speech ;)

Personally, I've moved about 15 mechanical HDDs between computers, this is the first time one has died doing so (and the fourth time I've had a HDD die in total).

To clarify, the destination computer already has an SSD with Windows 7 installed on it. I'm just adding this HDD as an additional drive. I was expecting to just strap it in there and then format it.
 

liezryou

Member
Ok you computer gurus. Thinking about upgrading my passed me down system that my little brother is now using.

It's currently using this AM3+ Socket mobo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131631 .

The processor is an AMD AMD Athlon II X3 445 Rana Triple-Core 3.1GHz: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103872.

RAM is 2x2GB of this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148323 .

So what are my upgrade options here? I think AM3+ is an obsolete socket right, so is it even plausible to upgrade here or would it better to make a new system from scratch?
 
Cool sounds good, that is the h110 correct? I was thinking of switching my Noctua NH-D15 for the Corsair 100i,would that be ill advised?

The H110 is out of stock and ETA at my local store is October 3rd, I cant wait as I need it ASAP.

I like the Noctua, however the fact it blocks the first expansion slot on the mobo and is lacking memory clearance in dual-fan mode is kind of putting me off.

The h100i will have slightly lower cooling power than the h110 due to the smaller radiator and the smaller fans. Is the h105 in stock? It has a thicker radiator which should keep it close to the h110 in cooling.

If the h100i is your only option, it's still a great cooler and should work just fine for you unless you plan on overclocking over 4.5GHz on the chip.
 

Woffls

Member
Okay, here's my finished build. Mostly happy with the cable situation... I spent hours making sure the back was tidy as well but I don't have a photo. Had a lot of fun building this, and the R4 is a pleasure to work with.

In case it wasn't obvious, I was going for a black scheme! The PSU is slightly annoying by being half orange, but my case doesn't even have a window so whatever.

After a quick session on Black Flag, the CPU core temps get to 47-50, which seems alright. Not overclocked properly yet... just going to see how it goes for a few days. And yeah, that's only a 750 Ti SC :(
Untitled_zpse9dd47d0.png
 

xBladeM6x

Member
I hope that whenever EVGA releases the 980 ACX, they offer it in the trade-up program, so I can do the trade while still using my 980 for now. :D
 

N-Forced

Neo Member
Anyone here have any experience using the EVGA Step-Up program? I started my step up process to upgrade my 780 to a 980 and am just wondering how long it usually takes for your queue number to show up.
 
Okay, here's my finished build. Mostly happy with the cable situation... I spent hours making sure the back was tidy as well but I don't have a photo. Had a lot of fun building this, and the R4 is a pleasure to work with.

In case it wasn't obvious, I was going for a black scheme! The PSU is slightly annoying by being half orange, but my case doesn't even have a window so whatever.

After a quick session on Black Flag, the CPU core temps get to 47-50, which seems alright. Not overclocked properly yet... just going to see how it goes for a few days. And yeah, that's only a 750 Ti SC :(

Untitled_zpse9dd47d0.png

My setup is 40% like yours. With the H60, MSI X99 SLI PLUS (I just love how it looks), and 5820k. I was getting 70-80 Celsius at 4.2GHz (42 x 100), Auto voltage option from the MSI bios (which was going around 1.250)
 

Manp

Member
Okay, here's my finished build. Mostly happy with the cable situation... I spent hours making sure the back was tidy as well but I don't have a photo. Had a lot of fun building this, and the R4 is a pleasure to work with.

In case it wasn't obvious, I was going for a black scheme! The PSU is slightly annoying by being half orange, but my case doesn't even have a window so whatever.

After a quick session on Black Flag, the CPU core temps get to 47-50, which seems alright. Not overclocked properly yet... just going to see how it goes for a few days. And yeah, that's only a 750 Ti SC :(

Untitled_zpse9dd47d0.png

where's your SSD?
 
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