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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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Devildoll

Member
I reseated the ram because I have no idea where the motherboards manual is, and didn't know if the beeps were referencing a GPU problem or a ram problem. Google search had people saying both, until I searched further.

I have both pci-e connected, the leds on the card light up when power's flowing, stay lit up when the computers turned on.

alright, good.
seeing as your previous card works fine, it is a bit of a longshot, but have you tried hooking the 980 up to your 2nd pci-e port, to see if it works better there?

If you still need your manual, you can find it here.
Ended put self putting together my new PC.

Quick question:

What kind of temp is too high for an I5 4690k or when is it worth being concerned about? Am using just the OEM cooler that came with the processor.

Thanks!

I haven't read up on the 4000 series specifically, but typically you dont want intel cpu's to run over 80c for 24/7 use, 100 c is the max, at which point they throttle to keep cool, and if they fail, they shut down.
 

natjjohn

Member
Thanks for all the feedback.

Did BF4 on Ultra for a little over 30 mins and CPU maxed at 71C (one of the cores). Other cores were sub 70.

GPU maxed at 74 which seemed fine from my little knowledge.

So seems things are fine. Please correct me if my thoughts are wrong!!
 

OraleeWey

Member
Finally built my PC. Now I'm deciding on a keyboard. Im going with the Logitech G502 mouse. Any suggestions on the keyboard? I just don't want something too expensive and something backlit with the option to turn it off.
 

KePoW

Banned
Quick question:

What kind of temp is too high for an I5 4690k or when is it worth being concerned about? Am using just the OEM cooler that came with the processor.

I wouldn't run it over 80 (for apps/games you actually use I mean, I don't count Prime)
 

KePoW

Banned
I have another question if anyone could help me. What's a good mass storage hdd for internal? It's been a while since I needed one and I mostly see Toshibas and WD's rainbow of colors and just not sure what I should get anymore. I mostly just want it for media. I think the last two I got were a samsung and a WD black but that was a while ago. Any suggestions of what's a good brand anymore? Thanks.

For media, I would recommend WD Red

They are much quieter than Black, just slightly slower
 

Gambit61

Member
So It looks like I finally got a stable OC on my 4690k. 4.3GHz @ 1.230 Vcore. I re-enabled the power saving options in the BIOS (EIST and C-states) but the voltage doesn't go down. Is it okay to just leave the voltage at a constant 1.230V?
 

Fracas

#fuckonami
Oh man, the xonar dgx is such a huge jump over my onboard audio. Blasting through my headphones and it's sooo good.
 
So It looks like I finally got a stable OC on my 4690k. 4.3GHz @ 1.230 Vcore. I re-enabled the power saving options in the BIOS (EIST and C-states) but the voltage doesn't go down. Is it okay to just leave the voltage at a constant 1.230V?
1.23 is fine. As long as you have decent cooling. If it is under 75 under normal use then no need to worry.
 

KePoW

Banned
So It looks like I finally got a stable OC on my 4690k. 4.3GHz @ 1.230 Vcore. I re-enabled the power saving options in the BIOS (EIST and C-states) but the voltage doesn't go down. Is it okay to just leave the voltage at a constant 1.230V?

Nothing wrong with that, but I would still look into Adaptive voltage. Are you on the Adaptive setting? that's how you do it
 

Ragona

Member
Hey guys :) After a year of mainly using my PS4 im starting to wonder if i should hop back to my good old pc... now I would like a small check on how iam doing -
Iam currently running:
Asrock Z68 pro 3 gen 3
i5- 2500k 4,2 Ghz
8 gb Ram
Gtx 670 2Gb

So i know this has most likely been asked a couple of times by now but how am i doing with the 2500k? if i could rock that a little longer that would save me alot of money i recon.
I would like to get a stronger GPU though, but then im hitting the issue, that my PSU is quite old (Corsair TX650W) and doesnt have the supply pins for newer GPUs.

Assuming i want to be up to date for 2015 releases how would you guys recommend me to act? (300-500 Euros [tops])

thank you in advance
 

KePoW

Banned
Hey guys :) After a year of mainly using my PS4 im starting to wonder if i should hop back to my good old pc... now I would like a small check on how iam doing -
Iam currently running:
Asrock Z68 pro 3 gen 3
i5- 2500k 4,2 Ghz
8 gb Ram
Gtx 670 2Gb

So i know this has most likely been asked a couple of times by now but how am i doing with the 2500k? if i could rock that a little longer that would save me alot of money i recon.
I would like to get a stronger GPU though, but then im hitting the issue, that my PSU is quite old (Corsair TX650W) and doesnt have the supply pins for newer GPUs.

Assuming i want to be up to date for 2015 releases how would you guys recommend me to act? (300-500 Euros [tops])

thank you in advance

that's still a pretty good computer

Maybe just get a GTX 970. That way you don't have to upgrade your power-supply because Nvidia's 900 series are extremely power efficient
 

no maam

Banned
Hey guys :) After a year of mainly using my PS4 im starting to wonder if i should hop back to my good old pc... now I would like a small check on how iam doing -
Iam currently running:
Asrock Z68 pro 3 gen 3
i5- 2500k 4,2 Ghz
8 gb Ram
Gtx 670 2Gb

So i know this has most likely been asked a couple of times by now but how am i doing with the 2500k? if i could rock that a little longer that would save me alot of money i recon.
I would like to get a stronger GPU though, but then im hitting the issue, that my PSU is quite old (Corsair TX650W) and doesnt have the supply pins for newer GPUs.

Assuming i want to be up to date for 2015 releases how would you guys recommend me to act? (300-500 Euros [tops])

thank you in advance

I have the same cpu. Just oc'd it to 4.2. Also just got a new 980. My lil shit slays through all the games on ulta with vsync on. The 2500k is an amazing lil chip. Your power supply seems a lil low though. Do what I did, a mini rebuild. Get a new heatsink,a 980, psu and call it a day till skylake.
 

Gambit61

Member
Nothing wrong with that, but I would still look into Adaptive voltage. Are you on the Adaptive setting? that's how you do it

I think an adaptive voltage setting is missing in Gigabyte BIOS for some reason. Does anyone here know what the Gigabyte equivalent is? My board is the UD5H.
 

Ragona

Member
thanks alot for those advices, just one last one :
is it advisable to buy a 970 now or should I wait a month for the (possible) new AMD cards?
 

sk3tch

Member
thanks alot for those advices, just one last one :
is it advisable to buy a 970 now or should I wait a month for the (possible) new AMD cards?

They're due in June (announcement-wise). Probably available for purchase shortly thereafter.

AMD has a glut of product in the channel (2xx series) - so they're holding back the release of the 3xx series.
 
Hey guys what type of configuration do you think would be able to run The Witcher 3 on High, 1080p and 60fps? I'm building a Gaming pc soon and would like to run this game nicely
 
Hey guys what type of configuration do you think would be able to run The Witcher 3 on High, 1080p and 60fps? I'm building a Gaming pc soon and would like to run this game nicely

well look at the recommended settings (i7-3770, 8gb, 290) and that will get you 1080p 30fps.

I'd say:

i7-4770, 8GB or 16GB RAM, GTX 970/980 or top end AMD 300 series when they come out.
 
If you can stretch another $10 you can get a R9 280 for $160 after rebate: http://www.microcenter.com/product/440775/Radeon_R9_280_BOOST_3GB_DDR5_Video_Card

If not then a R9 270X or a 270 would be an okay upgrade. Look for used cards as well, you might be able to get something even better. Try and overclock your CPU a little more if you can, if you're going to be recording.

Assuming you are from the US.

Radeon 280 160$ after 25$ rebate.
Radeon 270 150$ after 10$ rebate.
Radeon 270x 144$ after 20$ rebate.

Option 1 recommended. AMD outperform NVIDIA in this range.

Others have already recommended the AMD option for better performance for the price, but if recording is very important, an alternative would be the GTX 750 Ti with ShadowPlay for recording. It's much less of a performance hit when it comes to game recording than FRAPS or even AMD's GVR, as these benchmarks show, although performance varies by the game.

Thanks all. Stretching up to $160 or so is within my range pretty easily. I'll look into each of these options and see what is best for me. The idea of using Shadowplay seems really helpful so even if the non-recording perfornance isn't quite as good I'm leaning towards that 750 Ti. Gonna read up more though to decide.
 

Gambit61

Member
Okay so I looked around and saw that the closest thing Gigabyte has to Adaptive voltage is Manual Offset. Temps and voltage with a 0.082V offset are close to what the locked 1.230V was giving me.
 

KePoW

Banned
Okay so I looked around and saw that the closest thing Gigabyte has to Adaptive voltage is Manual Offset. Temps and voltage with a 0.082V offset are close to what the locked 1.230V was giving me.

ah ok, sucks that your MB doesn't have Adaptive voltage. Manual Offset isn't a bad alternative though
 

kiyomi

Member
Okay so I looked around and saw that the closest thing Gigabyte has to Adaptive voltage is Manual Offset. Temps and voltage with a 0.082V offset are close to what the locked 1.230V was giving me.

Offset isn't a bad way to go, but I'm pretty sure your Gigabyte board has some kind of adapative control even if it's not listed. I'm on a Z97M-D3H and my voltage is absolutely adapting. If anything, I think I've had trouble keeping the voltage fixed, haha.
 

Gambit61

Member
Offset isn't a bad way to go, but I'm pretty sure your Gigabyte board has some kind of adapative control even if it's not listed. I'm on a Z97M-D3H and my voltage is absolutely adapting. If anything, I think I've had trouble keeping the voltage fixed, haha.

Are you overclocked? For some reason when everything is on their default settings (basically auto) with turbo activated I get adaptive voltage, but when i disable turbo and change the clock to 43 the voltage is constant. Maybe it's a weird bug with the UD5H?
 

KePoW

Banned
Are you overclocked? For some reason when everything is on their default settings (basically auto) with turbo activated I get adaptive voltage, but when i disable turbo and change the clock to 43 the voltage is constant. Maybe it's a weird bug with the UD5H?

I don't know about your Gigabyte, but you do not want to disable Turbo

On my ASUS MB with a 4690k, you literally only change two settings from default BIOS. The core ratio multiplier of course, and then core voltage (Adaptive in my case)

You shouldn't change/disable anything else if you're just doing a moderate 4.3ghz OC
 
Hey guys :) After a year of mainly using my PS4 im starting to wonder if i should hop back to my good old pc... now I would like a small check on how iam doing -
Iam currently running:
Asrock Z68 pro 3 gen 3
i5- 2500k 4,2 Ghz
8 gb Ram
Gtx 670 2Gb

So i know this has most likely been asked a couple of times by now but how am i doing with the 2500k? if i could rock that a little longer that would save me alot of money i recon.
I would like to get a stronger GPU though, but then im hitting the issue, that my PSU is quite old (Corsair TX650W) and doesnt have the supply pins for newer GPUs.

Assuming i want to be up to date for 2015 releases how would you guys recommend me to act? (300-500 Euros [tops])

thank you in advance

I was in your same position, had a 2500k @ stock and a GTX 670 and had been playing mainly on my PS4 and X1 for about a year after they were released. Felt the itch to go back to PC, so I first installed an aftermarket cooler and overclocked the CPU...settled on 4.0 ghz for the time being. I also added a 970.

I've been demolishing every major game and its made my consoles feel dated already. I think if you just add a 970 with your current OC you should be totally fine.
 

Foxyone

Member
Is there any particular reason games "hitch" every now and again? I didn't really have it on my laptop, but with my 750 ti (no power connector or overclock), games will sometimes momentarily freeze.
 
ok I think my monitor is messed up because its producing some nasty visuals that aren't there on my console version of the games like bf4 and red faction and just overall nasty looking visuals anyway to find and fix the issue? it's an asus vs247h-p
 

KePoW

Banned
ok I think my monitor is messed up because its producing some nasty visuals that aren't there on my console version of the games like bf4 and red faction and just overall nasty looking visuals anyway to find and fix the issue? it's an asus vs247h-p

are you sure it's not the GPU?
 
Hi PC GAF. Is there a video card out there that is a worthwhile upgrade for a 1GB 560ti that costs $150 (or less)? I am interested in playing Heroes of the Storm at 1080p while recording with Fraps with as high as settings as that price will allow.

Current specs:

i5 2500k @ 4.1 GHz
1 GB 560ti (stock clock)
8 GB 1600 MHz DDR3
Windows 8.1

Any advice is appreciated. The 560ti has served me super well actually, so I wouldn't mind waiting longer, but I'm just trying to figure out if anything exists in my budget at this time. Maybe I'll need to wait for another cycle of new cards.

So, based on a few helpful posts in here today, I am thinking of going with an EVGA 750 Ti. This card specifically. It is $130 after rebate and it seems like I can sell the in-game voucher code for $5-$10 and probably sell my old 560 Ti for about $40, so the final cost to me would be under $100. This should provide me a modest boost in-game but mainly would be a big asset for recording gameplay via Shadowplay instead of using Fraps.

My one concern is that my 560 Ti has 256-bit GDDR vs 128-bit GDDR on the 750 Ti. Benchmarks show the 750 Ti is clearly an improvement. Is there anything I should be worried about moving from my 560 Ti to this 750 Ti? I also like the size and lack of need for an external power supply, meaning I can pull out one more cable within my system and thus improve the airflow a tiny bit.
 
So, based on a few helpful posts in here today, I am thinking of going with an EVGA 750 Ti. This card specifically. It is $130 after rebate and it seems like I can sell the in-game voucher code for $5-$10 and probably sell my old 560 Ti for about $40, so the final cost to me would be under $100. This should provide me a modest boost in-game but mainly would be a big asset for recording gameplay via Shadowplay instead of using Fraps.

My one concern is that my 560 Ti has 256-bit GDDR vs 128-bit GDDR on the 750 Ti. Benchmarks show the 750 Ti is clearly an improvement. Is there anything I should be worried about moving from my 560 Ti to this 750 Ti? I also like the size and lack of need for an external power supply, meaning I can pull out one more cable within my system and thus improve the airflow a tiny bit.

No need to worry about anything.
 

Gambit61

Member
I don't know about your Gigabyte, but you do not want to disable Turbo

On my ASUS MB with a 4690k, you literally only change two settings from default BIOS. The core ratio multiplier of course, and then core voltage (Adaptive in my case)

You shouldn't change/disable anything else if you're just doing a moderate 4.3ghz OC

Gigabyte goes crazy with turbo on.
4.3GHz and 1.230V locked
BoagF6D.png


Defaults with 4.3GHz and Auto voltage
DrYfUPS.png
 
Your critique on this NUC office/multimedia build?

Code:
306.48		Dell UltraSharp U2515H, 25" 
389.89		Intel NUC Kit NUC5i5RYH 
140.90		Crucial MX200 250GB (M.2 2280) 
132.99		Crucial Memory for Mac SO-DIMM Kit 16GB 
108.90		Samsung Spinpoint M9T 2TB 2.5"
29.35		Dell AC511 Stereo USB Soundbar
15.90		Cherry KW 3000 Wireless
12.20		Logitech M185 Wireless Mouse 
1136.61

The "For Mac" part was chosen because of compatibility issues with many other 8GB modules.
Price in Euro/Austria including shipping
 

Gambit61

Member
Sorry for the crappy camera pics. This is what the voltage settings look like. In the Vcore option you can only choose Auto (the default), Normal (for vcore offset) or just pick a constant voltage. I'm surprised this thing is missing such a common setting.
 
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