RumblingRosco
Member
Thanks for the quick reply.
"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
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Thanks for the quick reply.
What BIOS version are you using? I have the exact same set of options as you, I'm sure of it. I don't have an 'Adaptive' setting or anything, but I can guarantee you the voltage goes up and down accordingly. But when I stress tested for my overclock, it never kept a constant voltage. I am confus.
Depends on what storage size you need. WD Blue is for consumers but exists only in 1TB. WD Black tends to cost a lot for the specs, but comes in a larger variety and has longer warranty coverage.
For those looking to save money, Toshiba and Hitachi/HGST drives are decent.
Hey guysAfter a year of mainly using my PS4 im starting to wonder if i should hop back to my good old pc... now I would like a small check on how iam doing -
Iam currently running:
Asrock Z68 pro 3 gen 3
i5- 2500k 4,2 Ghz
8 gb Ram
Gtx 670 2Gb
So i know this has most likely been asked a couple of times by now but how am i doing with the 2500k? if i could rock that a little longer that would save me alot of money i recon.
I would like to get a stronger GPU though, but then im hitting the issue, that my PSU is quite old (Corsair TX650W) and doesnt have the supply pins for newer GPUs.
Assuming i want to be up to date for 2015 releases how would you guys recommend me to act? (300-500 Euros [tops])
thank you in advance
What country are you in?
The 2500K is fine, it just needs to be overclocked and it'll be within a stone's throw of the latest i5 4670K/4690K.
I am pretty sure your TX650 power supply is adequate, though. According to SPCR and OuterVision Extreme's reviews it says it has two 6+2 pin GPU power cables which is more than enough for a GTX 980 or R9 290X, they haven't changed the type of supplemental power cables that graphics cards need. However, it is getting kind of old so you could get a replacement if you wanted.
No need to worry about the 750 Ti being a bottleneck when it comes to memory. If you are thinking of overall cost instead of absolute performance, then then 750 Ti is right up your alley, I guess. The next step up would be the GTX 960 which is also similarly power efficient and costs about $200, but does still require a power cable. That said, some GTX 750 Ti models still come with a connector for a power cable, it helps when running at high load and/or overclocking.
For best cost there are these two EVGA models, they differ in cooler size. The first model is the same as yours, but it's $5 cheaper at NCIXUS and also comes with the game currency voucher. The one with the twin fan probably runs slightly cooler, but in terms of clock speed and overall performance they are nearly identical (1.18 GHz VS 1.19 GHz).
EVGA GTX 750 Ti Superclocked for $125 after $20 rebate - no power cable needed
EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW ACX for $130 plus shipping after $20 rebate - has a 6 pin power connector
Asus does make a GTX 750 Ti that's pricier but has a semi-fanless mode that turns off the fans completely when at low temperature and not gaming, and turns them on when you actually need it.
Asus GTX 750 Ti Strix for $159 - no power cable needed
Shark Attack
Banned
Offset should allow the vcore to change
Zenaku
Member
I've tried it in the 2nd port, yes. Still just gives the 1-long, 3-short beep and never displays anything on screen.
Thanks for the manual.
While it might be irrelevant, as I wanted to test how the GPU performs I ran my 660ti through a few benchmarks before switching. For Alien Isolation, I set it to downsample from 4K with everything at max, with some modified settings, getting average 20fps. When I switched the 980 and tested it, it went right up to 40 (I've been testing 3D vision over the last week or so, and forgot I had FPS limit to 40) and didn't seem to have any trouble until the fans went haywire (which I found odd as I've heard the GPU is quiet) and the video feed died a few seconds later, while the computer (and GPU) kept running.
I can't help but think it might just be dead, but I have no other setup to test with.
Version F8. Yeah that's weird. So you have turbo on, with a custom core clock and no change in the voltage settings? Do you get high voltage like mine did? (around 1.355V)
Yeah, I'm guessing that's my only option. I'm still surprised they don't have an adaptive option with a custom max voltage setting.
Just use offset. Adaptive is similar to offset except the vcore supplied is more managed by the CPU, it can demand more voltage than the offset permits. But i have a feeling Gigbaytes is the same as its part of the CPU.
If you are doing any sort of OCing, do not use Auto voltage (as you found out)
Looks like your only option is Manual Offset, which works. Just slightly not as ideal as Adaptive
Damerman
Member
I need help picking between two of these motherboards;
Z97i-plus
m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16813132122
And
H97i-plus
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16813132123
I don't really need the wifi capabilities or the overclocking capabilities. Blutooth 4.0 is a little bit tempting. I just want to know if the h97 performs less than the z97.
Z97i-plus
m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16813132122
And
H97i-plus
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16813132123
I don't really need the wifi capabilities or the overclocking capabilities. Blutooth 4.0 is a little bit tempting. I just want to know if the h97 performs less than the z97.
AdmiralSnackbar
Member
I'm not sure if this is the right thread to ask, but is this thing any sort of decent?
http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/174882/Dell-XPS-8700-Desktop-Computer-With/
Like do I have any chance of playing a PC game the same year it is released, and is there any way to check if has any kind of capacity to be upgraded?
http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/174882/Dell-XPS-8700-Desktop-Computer-With/
Like do I have any chance of playing a PC game the same year it is released, and is there any way to check if has any kind of capacity to be upgraded?
michaelius
Banned
Maybe less demanging indie titles. GPU in that thing is trash tier.
No, H97 performs the same as Z97.
Overclocking is only possible with a K series CPU and Z series board.
Damerman
Member
U need to remove that gpu asap. Ur budget is gonna end up being 1000 bucks and you could have a much better self built machine at that price.
Damerman
Member
Appreciate the help.
H97 it is then.
GPU ain't worth shit.
For $800 you could get a really nice gaming PC with an SSD.
I'd pass.
Graphics card isn't meant for gaming.
Can't find any info on the PSU wattage. You might be able to upgrade the PSU, but some prebuilt computers don't have a standard 24 pin connector layout.
Looks to small to fit a standard length graphics card if you plan on upgrading.
Thanks guys! This was my first real attempt at overclocking a CPU. Now to give Dolphin and F-Zero GX another shot.
Big Chungus
Member
My friend gave me his old 560 Ti but i'm getting a replacement R7 265 after a RMA so...
560 Ti or R7 265?
560 Ti or R7 265?
Just built a box! Consolidated a bunch of stuff.
(click to enlarge)
And yeah - before you ask - very, very likely not going with the Titan X. Who knows, though. Picked up all of those 980s for below retail. Have a 4th in another box. Even tri-SLI is stupid - just wanted to build a beast (had mITX for a min) Maybe I'll roll 2x Titan X if I can get ahold of them on 3/17.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
265. Faster, more VRAM, runs cooler and consumes less power, easy choice.
Treechopper
Member
Performance wise, is it close between the 290 and 970? AMD helps a little with the price, but I don't know if it's worth it.
Also, what are some of the more respectable card vendors? I had XFX and it was ok, but I'm willing to try something else.
Also, what are some of the more respectable card vendors? I had XFX and it was ok, but I'm willing to try something else.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
How cheaper can you get it? It is quite close. XFX is fine. ASUS, MSI, Gigabyte, EVGA are good.
What are the rest of your specs? The H97 won't really perform much differently from the Z97, especially if you're not overclocking. If bluetooth is all you want, then save yourself $45 and get the H97 motherboard and buy a separate USB bluetooth adaptor for $10 or less.
Can't recommend that at all. Definitely won't work well for triple-A titles, although maybe for 2D/indie games. The GT720 is so low end that most sites don't bother to look at it, it really only works for lowest possible settings. The power supply is probably some low end ~200 watt model that you'd need to replace in order to support a better graphics card.
This build costs a little bit more but will be much more upgradeable and perform many times better for gaming.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($222.75 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-E ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 290 4GB Tri-X OC Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $821.67
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-14 20:17 EDT-0400
It's still possible to shave off a couple of dollars here and there to get it to about $800.
Treechopper
Member
We're talking $30 - $60. Not a lot, but enough to sway me.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
This build of RGM79 will take that XPS out back, roundhouse it so hard it spits that 720 card out and there will still be enough juice to run Crysis 3 better than that XPS ever could.
Exaggerate here but I can't help it.
AdmiralSnackbar
Member
My main thing is that it's a gift and a replacement for a dying 2007 machine that could never play anything either. Is there anything I can do with it or will I just have to build something completely new if I decide to get in on stuff like Occulus in the next few years?
What are the rest of your system specs?
Assuming you're in the US, right now the Sapphire R9 290 is $240 after $30 worth of discounts and rebates, while the GTX 970 runs about $90+ more. Sapphire's one of the better AMD card manufacturers, they have excellent coolers that don't run loudly but are still top end in terms of cooling performance. Anandtech, Tweaktown, and eTeknix all liked it a lot.
Sapphire Radeon R9 290 4GB Tri-X OC Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
In terms of performance the R9 290 performs generally anywhere from equally well to 20% slower than the GTX 970, depending on the game. That comparison is for the reference R9 290 and the EVGA GTX 970 FTW, so the Sapphire Tri-X OC will perform a bit better than the basic reference R9 290.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Well if it is a gift and you can't exchange it for cash then you can replace the PSU and the graphic card, as recommended by RGM above.
ThoseDeafMutes
Member
If you've already got it, and can't return it (on account of being a gift) you're up shit creek without a paddle if you want to play Oculus games. Or any modern, graphically intensive game at all really. The CPU and RAM are great/acceptable, but the GPU is going to be a gargantuan bottleneck. Replacing the GPU will probably require you to replace the power supply, since they tend not to give you much more than the PC needs.
Treechopper
Member
Relevant parts are i5-3570k, ASUS P8Z77-V, and ....some new Sandisk SSD. They work well, so I'm not worried about them being the bottleneck yet. Thanks for the heads up on that Sapphire card. I'll probably get that!
GetDigitized
Member
Alright, tom's hardware is useless... I've been having these issues since building the computer a year ago.1) When i put it in sleep mode for longer than 20-60 mins it will not boot back up. This is regardless of whetehr my cpu is overclocked or not. I have tried replacing the ram and that's not the issue. I can't find anything in the motherboard options to indicate that it's due to it.
2) My main montior is a 32" Samsung Ue32h5000 TV (For watching streaming+ffxiv). Every couple of boot ups the resolution of the computer goes down(The mouse pointer is significantly larger) but the system resolution points at 1080p. I borroed a r9 280 to see if it was due to the dedicated graphics,but it had the same problem. I know the resolution is lower as my video player reports it as being lower. Switching screens using windows +P or changing the resolution to a lower and back to 1080p using windows fixes the problem.
Drivers+Bios are updated.
Specs:
Dual monitor 2x 1080p monitors.
i5-4600k(currently using integrated graphics) - artic silver thermal paste + non-stock cooler - idles around 22-30C.
Gigabye z87 HD3
HyperX 8 GB 1600 MHz CL9 DDR3 HyperX Beast Desktop Memory Kit (2 x 4GB).
120GB Samsung 840EVO SSD - Windows is installed here.
1TB Blue Western Digital HDD.
600W Corsair Bronze+ power supply
2) My main montior is a 32" Samsung Ue32h5000 TV (For watching streaming+ffxiv). Every couple of boot ups the resolution of the computer goes down(The mouse pointer is significantly larger) but the system resolution points at 1080p. I borroed a r9 280 to see if it was due to the dedicated graphics,but it had the same problem. I know the resolution is lower as my video player reports it as being lower. Switching screens using windows +P or changing the resolution to a lower and back to 1080p using windows fixes the problem.
Drivers+Bios are updated.
Specs:
Dual monitor 2x 1080p monitors.
i5-4600k(currently using integrated graphics) - artic silver thermal paste + non-stock cooler - idles around 22-30C.
Gigabye z87 HD3
HyperX 8 GB 1600 MHz CL9 DDR3 HyperX Beast Desktop Memory Kit (2 x 4GB).
120GB Samsung 840EVO SSD - Windows is installed here.
1TB Blue Western Digital HDD.
600W Corsair Bronze+ power supply
MSI, Gigabyte, and Asus are the top three recommended brand you'll find amongst both AMD and Nvidia. I tend to lean over to MSI products since I never had a problem with them.
I had an XFX 280X and it ran great for the first few month, but then started to run over 100 degrees Celsius one time it reached 130 degrees. From what I gathered online it wasn't uncommon for the 280(X) to overheat, I'm assuming the same applies to higher TDP GPUs.
Instead of XFX I'd say Sapphire is the best AMD card manufacturer.
Cool, thanks.
What model of power supply do you have exactly? If it's old enough to not support the new Haswell C6/C7 low power states, it could be unstable because of the very low power draw and may not resume from sleep properly. Check your BIOS menu for something along the lines of "Haswell low power" or "C6/C7 state" and disable it.
Your second issue could be related to DPI settings, which is similar to resolution settings but not actually a different resolution, it just changes how large certain objects are. DPI settings shouldn't just change by themselves, though.
Does it make a difference if you load into Windows before the TV is turned on or vice versa?
wow wtf, I had no idea that makes a difference
(click to enlarge)
And yeah - before you ask - very, very likely not going with the Titan X. Who knows, though. Picked up all of those 980s for below retail. Have a 4th in another box. Even tri-SLI is stupid - just wanted to build a beast (had mITX for a min) Maybe I'll roll 2x Titan X if I can get ahold of them on 3/17.
brother where have you been ;__;
Ha, what's up, Smokey? You going Titan X? What are you running now? Saw that you dumped one of your 4Ks?
I put the Samsung 4k up for sale in the B/S/T thread. Just haven't really used it. Been maining my ROG Swift for a while. I had 3x Titan Blacks in a Air 540, but I sold two of them in the B/S/T thread a month or so ago. Running a Rampage IV Extreme Black Edition, 4930k, 16GB RAM, Titan Black, 2TB Samsung HDD+ 750GB evo 840 + 160GB Intel SSD.
Depends on how I feel Tuesday on Titan X. Not 100% sure at the moment.
Why do you keep leaving us sk3tch
What are you missing exactly? How about a screenshot of your device manager window?
Have you checked the manufacturer's website for driver downloads?
CreepingFear
Member
So far, I have $950 saved towards a future Skylake build. Hoping it comes out right around the time Windows 10 comes out. I'm going to make this 2600k, 780 Ti build a secondary pc/test pc/ linux box or something.
lol - I never leave, bro - just lurkin'!
ThoseDeafMutes
Member
Win 10 is probably closer to halfway through the year vs 3/4 for skylake.
I've heard the free upgrade promotion from Windows 7/8/8.1 to Windows 10 will be valid for a year from the date Windows 10 is released, so he should have plenty of time.
CreepingFear
Member
I'll probably still need to purchase 10 for the new Skylake build if I'm going to keep my old computers and upgrade them to 10 as well.
finalflame
Banned
I wanna show you the complete build, GAF. But it's just not ready yet. Tuesday can't come soon enough.
Yeah, since your old card works just fine, and the new one actually worked for a brief moment, it does not seem like an issue with the rest of the computer, nor a compatibility issue, but rather that the new card died.
You mean Celsius right?
Any cooler, especially Intel's stock ones will get a dust carpet between the fan and the heatsink, eventually cutting off airflow entirely.
One of my novice buddies didn't clean his computer, he told me he got random crashes, at which point i prompted him to check his temps.
Turns out his computer had been idling at 100c for at least three weeks.
This is less of a problem if you have dust filters on all your intake fans though.
Then the front of your computer will look like this after a while, but it is easier to clean than going inside
Glass Shark
Banned
So I figured out my weird problem with performance getting worse in some games after my overclock. For some reason my PhysX setting in GeForce Control Panel got turned to CPU instead of GPU. Arkham Origins and Metro: Last Light both used Advanced PhysX and I guess the CPU just wasn't cutting it for that.
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