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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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RGM79

Member
I can find out, though I doubt he will do any upgrading or move the modem to a better position. The other option is getting our own internet but its a bit hard to justify right now.

Would getting a wifi extender to help?

Wifi extenders would increase signal range if you place it in the right spot, but I'm not sure if they would increase speed in your situation. If you're limited to making changes on your end, then there's not a lot you can do..

The cheapest solution would be to use a USB extension cord, so you sort of get the same thing as an antenna on a wire. Plug the wifi adaptor into the USB extension cord and place the adaptor closer to your uncle's house. If the computer is near any windows facing your uncle's house, I'd try to put the wifi adaptor at the window, it should interfere less than a wooden/brick wall.

Really, it's sort of hard to say definitely what to replace or change. I assume you're using wireless N, but I have no idea what speeds or capabilities your devices support, such as the USB adaptor you have or the modem or router at your uncle's house is working at. Stuff like antenna type (slow but cheap and compact 1x1? high end 3x3?) and frequency (2.4GHz is better for range and wall penetration than 5GHz) can matter a lot. If there's a lot of other wifi networks in the same area, there could also be congestion and interference.

For example, if the wifi signal is broadcast with a device using 2x2 antennas, getting a new wifi adaptor that supports 3x3 won't make a difference if your current adaptor already handles 2x2. And if the wifi signal is wireless N only, getting that Gigabyte PCI-E wifi card which supports wireless AC might not make a huge difference, although it is compatible with wireless N and has 2x2 antennas.

This document is a little long, but it goes into more detail about wireless N networking and how to optimize it.
 

ruttyboy

Member
The last "equivalent" I remember someone was saying fitted the 8800GT was the GTS 450.. Maybe a GT 740 or even a GT 730 would be a match today?

Does it need to have equal gaming performance, or do you just need HDMI output for as cheap as possible? If it's the latter case, then something cheap like the GT 210/610 would suffice.

Thanks for replying. I still game on it, so it needs to have the same grunt ideally. Looking at some benchmark sites last night it seems the 720 isn't very far ahead of it and is only about £30-40 so that might be my best bet.
 

Darkone

Member
ok, glad you replied. Ill tell you my story.


I built a gaming PC a couple of years ago. My onboard MOBO had SPDIF out. I had a super old receiver (like 10 years old, a Yamaha one). I thought if I just hook up from my computer to my receiver with SPDIF, then I would be perfect for 5.1 for games and movies. My receiver did have DD and DTS decoding.

BUT when I actually hooked it up, I could not get "true" 5.1 unless I was playing a retail DVD from my DVD drive on my computer (one where the sound was already encoded in DD or DTS). I could not figure it out. I did lots of research and realized that SPIDF cannot handle uncompressed 5.1 audio. Therefore if you are playing a game with a true 5.1 channels (not a game with dolby digital) or watching say a downloaded movie which also has a 5.1 track (again a raw 5.1 track), 5.1 will not work on your receiver, only 2.0.

If you turn on a "5.1 mix" mode on your receiver then it will play sound out of all speakers, but it is not true discrete 5.1.



Anyways its a long story but be warned. That SPDIF header card I sent is pretty cheap, so you can always try it. However your MOBO has 3.5 mm audio outs for front, side, rear and center/sub.


Check the back of your receiver, it should have a section called "AUX IN" or "AUDIO IN" something like that with (I assume) 6 RCA ins labled "front" "Surround (or side)" and "center/sub".


If I were you I would skip the SPDIF and go straight for the solution I did, which was buy 3 sets of these 3.5mm to RCA splitters - http://www.ebay.com/itm/12ft-Aux-Au...965?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d56bea425

It doesnt have to be those exact ones but just make sure the end that plugs into your MOBO is a bit smaller because sometimes the plugs are close together and if the shielding around the plug is too big they wont all fit (again I know from experience :( ).


Plug those from Front/Side/Center+Sub from your Mobo to the same inputs on your receiver.



That should be the proper solution for getting true 5.1 without running HDMI to a receiver.



Sorry for the long explanation, but that shit took me forever to figure out. If you need something else let me know.

Thanks for the info, i ordered the Header card, its cheap so what the hell.
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks for replying. I still game on it, so it needs to have the same grunt ideally. Looking at some benchmark sites last night it seems the 720 isn't very far ahead of it and is only about £30-40 so that might be my best bet.

Make sure the one you're looking at has 2GB VRAM. It's just a difference of a few pounds but better to have 2GB than just 1GB VRAM even if you play at low settings. The AMD R7 240 might also be an option as it's apparently designed to compete with the GT 630 which might be slightly stronger than the GT 720, there's this XFX model with 2GB VRAM for less than £40. It's difficult to find graphics card benchmarks featuring the GT 720 or the R7 240, though. I only really found this one study by Tom's Hardware and it features the R7 240 and GT 630.
 

Fitts

Member
What are the drawbacks of going mini-ITX? I'm considering going with a Thermaltake Core V1 for my build due to convenience, but I'm aware that going ATX is more flexible. From what I gather, I'll be limited to 16GB RAM, (shouldn't be a big deal for future proofing, right?) won't be able to SLI, and have more limited connectivity. (not a huge deal to me) Concerning the case itself, it looks like the Gigabyte Windforce cards wouldn't be a possibility but all the others I'm considering are a go.

The two boards I'm considering are the Asus Z97I-Plus for m-ITX or Z97-A for ATX. Would there be any difference in performance/reliability? If it matters, it looks like I'll be ending up with an i7 and am still deciding between a GTX 970 or 960.
 

LilJoka

Member
What are the drawbacks of going mini-ITX? I'm considering going with a Thermaltake Core V1 for my build due to convenience, but I'm aware that going ATX is more flexible. From what I gather, I'll be limited to 16GB RAM, (shouldn't be a big deal for future proofing, right?) won't be able to SLI, and have more limited connectivity. (not a huge deal to me) Concerning the case itself, it looks like the Gigabyte Windforce cards wouldn't be a possibility but all the others I'm considering are a go.

The two boards I'm considering are the Asus Z97I-Plus for m-ITX or Z97-A for ATX. Would there be any difference in performance/reliability? If it matters, it looks like I'll be ending up with an i7 and am still deciding between a GTX 970 or 960.

I would say there are not too many cons especially if you are able to well define what you want to get out of the system.

Main cons:
No SLI
You need to be clever with cable management
Airflow, the above point helps a lot here
No PCIE expansion

There is no difference in performance in motherboards, the only difference can be on the edge overclocking potential. GTX 970 would be what i would buy definitely.

Consider the Fractal Node 304 as an alternative case.

16GB RAM is fine.
 

ekim

Member
Are there more interactive tech-demos like the Unreal Paris and Titanic thing? I want some showcase stuff for my new PC :p
 

SeppOCE

Member
Looking into upping my PC a little bit in the graphics department. I'm currently on a Radeon HD 7850 and I'm not sure whether I should buy another one and double up with crossfire or get a completely new graphics card, any help?

I have 10 gigs of ram and an 8320 eight core processor also.
 

RGM79

Member
Looking into upping my PC a little bit in the graphics department. I'm currently on a Radeon HD 7850 and I'm not sure whether I should buy another one and double up with crossfire or get a completely new graphics card, any help?

I have 10 gigs of ram and an 8320 eight core processor also.
What power supply do you have and what resolution do you play games at? The 7850 is still a decent midrange graphics card for 1080p so what kind of improvements are you looking for? Maxing out graphics settings? Higher framerate?

We generally recommend upgrading to a stronger graphics card rather than running twin mid-range cards. It may be cheaper to get a second used 7850 for crossfire but not all games support crossfire, and of those that do, performance scaling varies so you'll need to look for crossfire benchmarks on a per-game basis to see if it's worth it for you.

Anecdotally, I've heard of 7000 series cards having microstutter issues when in crossfire, I myself had twin R9 270X cards (rebadged and slightly updated 7870 model) in crossfire for a bit over half a year and personally had no issues.
 

ACE 1991

Member
Noticed a really odd thing with my PC. Whenever I move the mouse (i've tried multiple usb ports) there is a very slight high-pitched noise coming from what seems to be my motherboard, not the PSU or anything. Anyone else ever experience this/know how to fix it?
 

ACE 1991

Member
Does the noise come from the case, or do you hear it through headphones that are plugged into it's front panel?

Definitely coming from the case, NOT headphones or speakers. I put my ear up to the PC and it doesn't seem like it's coming from the PSU either. It's slight enough where I won't hear it when I'm using my headphones, but it is audible when using just the mouse and there isn't any other background noise near my desk.
 

ACE 1991

Member
That's coil whine then and probably coming from your GPU.

Try this:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1527808/...oil-whine-during-mouse-movement-video-updated

This is EXACTLY the same noise I'm experiencing. I'll have to try this when I get home, thanks! This doesn't indicate that anything is critically wrong with the GPU though, right? I only recently upgraded to a r9 290 (asus brand) in February.

EDIT: Wow, this guy has the same GPU I do as well.

EDIT 2: Weird, the link you sent me is someone experience my problem but reversed. I'll give it a shot when I get home, but I'm hoping the first link you sent me will fix it, especially since the noise sounds so similar to the one I have, and he has the same GPU I do.

EDIT 3: Additional info: The noise is totally gone if I move the mouse when in the BIOS menu, if this helps at all.
 

LilJoka

Member
This is EXACTLY the same noise I'm experiencing. I'll have to try this when I get home, thanks! This doesn't indicate that anything is critically wrong with the GPU though, right? I only recently upgraded to a r9 290 (asus brand) in February.

EDIT: Wow, this guy has the same GPU I do as well.

EDIT 2: Weird, the link you sent me is someone experience my problem but reversed. I'll give it a shot when I get home, but I'm hoping the first link you sent me will fix it, especially since the noise sounds so similar to the one I have, and he has the same GPU I do.

EDIT 3: Additional info: The noise is totally gone if I move the mouse when in the BIOS menu, if this helps at all.

You can also get coil whine from the motherboard when its switching between C States.
 

LilJoka

Member
Does this still make sense as a possible explanation when the noise only occurs when I move the mouse?

It does since the CPU can be hopping in and out of different C States when the mouse is moving vs not moving (idle). You can just go into BIOS and disable the C States to test. You can also stick your ear inside the PC and try to hear where its coming from lol.
 

ACE 1991

Member
It does since the CPU can be hopping in and out of different C States when the mouse is moving vs not moving (idle). You can just go into BIOS and disable the C States to test. You can also stick your ear inside the PC and try to hear where its coming from lol.

I don't think I have a C States option on my motherboard, unless "C1e" is the same thing? Thanks for all the help guys, this is one of the best communities on GAF.
 

Fitts

Member
I would say there are not too many cons especially if you are able to well define what you want to get out of the system.

Main cons:
No SLI
You need to be clever with cable management
Airflow, the above point helps a lot here
No PCIE expansion

There is no difference in performance in motherboards, the only difference can be on the edge overclocking potential. GTX 970 would be what i would buy definitely.

Consider the Fractal Node 304 as an alternative case.

16GB RAM is fine.

Sorry for the delayed thank you, but thank you!
 

AndyD

aka andydumi
So I'm building a basic office/youtube PC. Someone showed me a brief rundown earlier in the thread, but I lost the post so how's this:

Intel G3258 - $50 and use stock cooler - Bought
AsRock Z97 - $80 can go for H97 and save a bit, or maybe a cheap openbox at newegg?
8GB DDR - $?
120B Samsung SSD - have
1-2 TB WD Blue - $80-90
GPU, audio, ethernet - builtin
Case - have
Power - Antec VP450 - $50

Any feedback? Any pitfalls or sales I should be aware of?

Any issues with this RAM:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16820233186&cm_sp=

CORSAIR Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)

Any better deals on perhaps 1866RAM?
 

LilJoka

Member
I don't think I have a C States option on my motherboard, unless "C1e" is the same thing? Thanks for all the help guys, this is one of the best communities on GAF.

Yes that is one of the C State options. Usually there will be a setting for C3 and C6 States too. Although i think disabling C1E automatically disables the lower states. Youll see the CPU frequency is static in CPUz at idle when C States are disabled.
 

garath

Member
Any issues with this RAM:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16820233186&cm_sp=

CORSAIR Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)

Any better deals on perhaps 1866RAM?

That's the exact RAM I have. Works like RAM should. I started with 2 sticks (8gigs) and a couple weeks ago I bought another 2 sticks to bring me to 16gigs. Everything works as intended.

Low profile is important to me because my CM 212 hangs over the RAM :/
 

Quotient

Member
My thinking for this - would you buy a 670 to SLI now or just sell the 670 and buy a single 970/980? I'd go with the latter.

I initially had the plan of building a mini-ITX gaming machine, but am tossing about the idea of going to micro-ATX so i have the option of SLI, though i can't find any micro-ATX cases that i like. I want something as compact as possible - equivalent of the Node 304 but for mATX. Though perhaps as you suggestion it just makes more sense to go single powerful GPU and trade-up every 18-24 months.
 

ACE 1991

Member
Yes that is one of the C State options. Usually there will be a setting for C3 and C6 States too. Although i think disabling C1E automatically disables the lower states. Youll see the CPU frequency is static in CPUz at idle when C States are disabled.

Ah. So disabling c1e will make my 2500k run at 4.3ghz even when idling? Not sure I wanna disable this even with the sound then. Will test these options when I am home from work.
 

kennah

Member
I initially had the plan of building a mini-ITX gaming machine, but am tossing about the idea of going to micro-ATX so i have the option of SLI, though i can't find any micro-ATX cases that i like. I want something as compact as possible - equivalent of the Node 304 but for mATX. Though perhaps it just makes more sense to go single powerful GPU and trade-up every 18-24 months.
Node 804.

Corsair air 540

Caselabs mercury s5
 

Quotient

Member
Node 804.

Corsair air 540

Caselabs mercury s5

I have had a look at the first 2 - they are still quiet big in comparison to the Node 304 (twice the volume), and the Mercury S5 is super expensive.

I guess if i don't plan on doing SLI and instead trade-up every 24 months, then mini-ITX is the best option.
 

Pakkidis

Member
Don't want to start a new threat for a computer question so I will ask hear. I've been reading some conflicting information on the net and wanted neogafs opinion.

So windows 8 automatically defrags your ssd/hardrive when not in use for a period of time however defragging your ssd is really bad for it. Now some say windows 8 defrags the ssd the proper way while others say you should disable the feature for your ssd....

Which one is it?
 

kennah

Member
Don't want to start a new threat for a computer question so I will ask hear. I've been reading some conflicting information on the net and wanted neogafs opinion.

So windows 8 automatically defrags your ssd/hardrive when not in use for a period of time however defragging your ssd is really bad for it. Now some say windows 8 defrags the ssd the proper way while others say you should disable the feature for your ssd....

Which one is it?

5 years ago and in Windows 7, disable defrag.

now and in Windows 8, it doesn't matter. You'd need to defrag your SSD for 12 years straight to get degradation, and windows 8 (and I think even updates to 7) handles SSD data properly.
 
So guys, I'm switching from an ATI to Nvidia card in a few days. Whats the proper way to switch?

Do I just plug my monitor into the onboard port, remove all the ATI drivers, remove the card, add the new card, download all the Nvidia drivers, then plug the monitor back into the card?

Also, I order a larger SSD. Whats the best software to copy everything from one SSD to another when my OS is on the SSD?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yes that is one of the C State options. Usually there will be a setting for C3 and C6 States too. Although i think disabling C1E automatically disables the lower states. Youll see the CPU frequency is static in CPUz at idle when C States are disabled.
Isn't that Intel Speed Stepping?
So guys, I'm switching from an ATI to Nvidia card in a few days. Whats the proper way to switch?

Do I just plug my monitor into the onboard port, remove all the ATI drivers, remove the card, add the new card, download all the Nvidia drivers, then plug the monitor back into the card?

Also, I order a larger SSD. Whats the best software to copy everything from one SSD to another when my OS is on the SSD?
Download this: http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html

I've had a lot of success with Acronis for moving OS installations on all my office workstations. Though, between both things for you, I really do suggest a total reformat.
 

Shadownet

Banned
Hey GAF, I'm at Micro center right now about to buy a GTX 970. Which brand should I get? I was dead set on getting the MSI GTX 970 1 Million Edition.

But the guy there told me to get the EVGA one instead because he had an MSI one and he had to replace it twice because of malfunctioning fans.

Halp?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Hey GAF, I'm at Micro center right now about to buy a GTX 970. Which brand should I get? I was dead set on getting the MSI GTX 970 1 Million Edition.

But the guy there told me to get the EVGA one instead because he had an MSI one and he had to replace it twice because of malfunctioning fans.

Halp?
Whatever is cheaper. Anecdotes aren't really a thing to go off of.
 

SRG01

Member
So, any suggestions on how to control the fan noise coming from my new rig? The huge front fan on my V21 is a 3-pin fan and is apparently spinning at about 500 rpm or so. It's not loud by any means, but it reminds me of sitting in an airplane and it's starting to drive me nutty.

Maybe a seprate fan controller of some sort, since 3-pin fans don't have speed control when they're plugged into the motherboard 4-pin fan connector? Or should I just replace the fan with something quieter?

There's a chance that my CPU fan is noisy too, but I'm 90% certain that my case fan is making the bulk of the sound...

I have an MSI 760 right now that I'm very happy with. So I thought MSI would be the way to go?

I'm personally an EVGA kind of person but there's nothing wrong with MSI.
 

cormack12

Gold Member
Is a 970 a safe card to go with now to last for 3-4 years and play games at 1080/60 with 'High' post processing and enhancements?
 

UberLevi

Member
Building a new PC over the summer. Was gonna get an FX 8320 cpu, GTX 960 card, and an msi 970 for the motherboard, but from what I've heard that's a bad board. Any other suggestions for that piece?
 

mkenyon

Banned
I have an MSI 760 right now that I'm very happy with. So I thought MSI would be the way to go?
Sure. MSI is great.
So, any suggestions on how to control the fan noise coming from my new rig? The huge front fan on my V21 is a 3-pin fan and is apparently spinning at about 500 rpm or so. It's not loud by any means, but it reminds me of sitting in an airplane and it's starting to drive me nutty.

Maybe a seprate fan controller of some sort, since 3-pin fans don't have speed control when they're plugged into the motherboard 4-pin fan connector? Or should I just replace the fan with something quieter?

There's a chance that my CPU fan is noisy too, but I'm 90% certain that my case fan is making the bulk of the sound...
Your motherboard might be able to control fan speed on the 3 pin connectors.

Otherwise, you can just get an in-line voltage regulator.
Is a 970 a safe card to go with now to last for 3-4 years and play games at 1080/60 with 'High' post processing and enhancements?
No one can give you an accurate answer to that. But maybe/probably.
Building a new PC over the summer. Was gonna get an FX 8320 cpu, GTX 960 card, and an msi 970 for the motherboard, but from what I've heard that's a bad board. Any other suggestions for that piece?
Avoid AMD processors. They're just not competitive. The 8320 isn't even on par with Sandy Bridge, which was many years ago.
 

Chitown B

Member
Avoid AMD processors. They're just not competitive. The 8320 isn't even on par with Sandy Bridge, which was many years ago.

I had a lot of luck with my 6800K which was only $150, but compared to the $220 I paid for my new 4690K I'd have to agree - IF you have a discrete graphics card in addition. Otherwise AMD is a good APU for gaming and media center videos, on the mid-range.
 

SpyGuy239

Member
GAF I need help. Everything was fine today with my monitor then I played Fleet Command on Steam (a very old game) anyway the game was flickering so I closed it but now my LED monitor keeps on flickering.

I thought the refresh rate might have changed so I checked, and it's still at 60Hz which is the native.

I tried reinstalling graphics cards drivers but still flickering.

I connected my laptop to my monitor and you could still see the flickering.

Can a game really break a monitor

Appreciate all help. Thanks!
 

mkenyon

Banned
https://pcpartpicker.com/parts/compare/evga-video-card-04gp42983kr,evga-video-card-04gp42986kr/

So I am very close to finding all the parts I want for my first Custom PC and I am looking at these two cards and wondering is the super clocked version worth the extra money? I am not sure what the difference is or what it actually means. Thanks to every one who has been very helpful.
It just means they ship with a mild overclock. There's no guarantee of the actual card being a better sample than the other, as they only bin chips for their Classified series of cards.
The ASUS Z97 Plus is literally the same motherboard as the Hero, but not red and black.

I like the Crucial drives over the Samsung EVO stuff, but get whatever is cheaper really.

Two Titans on a Consumer Socket (1155) board seems wrong to me.

1200W is ridiculous overkill. You'll need 850 max.

No CPU cooler?

This is almost the same price, and a much better PC:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($299.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI X99S SLI Plus ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($149.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($169.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Crucial MX200 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($189.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($71.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX Titan X 12GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($1226.44 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX Titan X 12GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($1226.44 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($149.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $3684.65
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-28 13:35 EDT-0400
 
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