Haha actually no im not even from Europe, Just visiting Berlin for the weekend.
Is the price difference big? As far as i know the titans are the only difference, and i am getting those in the US.
Where is the best place to see prices in Berlin?
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Haha actually no im not even from Europe, Just visiting Berlin for the weekend.
Is the price difference big? As far as i know the titans are the only difference, and i am getting those in the US.
Where is the best place to see prices in Berlin?
Geizhals.de is a nice price comparison website for PC parts. I guess it's not a big deal then, I'm mostly sure that parts prices in the US are cheaper than in Germany, even after currency conversion. Not sure if you'd be subject to customs taxes if you bring parts back to the US. Probably not worth dealing with, just stick to the US parts list then.
Ok.
What about Saturn? Do you know if they sell? I much rather buy there if its a 100-200$ difference total
Sorry, what is Saturn? Is that a shop?
It's basically the German BestBuy, saturn.de
You can check the prices on saturn.de.
But why do you want to buy parts there when you are only visiting? As RGM said, it's likely more expensive, you'll have to somehow get the stuff home, and, most importantly, if something is broken and you need to return it, you'll probably have to go back to the store you bought it.
xplicitone
Member
I have a 120GB SSD with my OS on it, and most other information on my 1TB HDD.
I want to install my new 750GB SSD and have the OS be on it (Windows 7). What's the best way to go about this? Copy contents over or start a fresh Windows 7 install?
(I have a 3 TB empty external drive if I need to make a backup of anything first).
I want to install my new 750GB SSD and have the OS be on it (Windows 7). What's the best way to go about this? Copy contents over or start a fresh Windows 7 install?
(I have a 3 TB empty external drive if I need to make a backup of anything first).
Because where i live, its almost double the price. So i much rather take the risk
The site is German only, so its kind of a problem.
Nvm, even i can figure PC KOMPONENTEN
Where do you live? There's no way Germany is cheaper than the US.
A fresh install would be ideal to clear away accumulated junk and other issues if you have any. Otherwise if you're happy with the way things are and want to keep things as is, cloning your current OS over to the new drive word take less time and effort. Refer to these two guides for help:
http://www.howtogeek.com/199068/how-to-upgrade-your-existing-hard-drive-in-under-an-hour/
http://www.howtogeek.com/97242/how-to-migrate-windows-7-to-a-solid-state-drive/
xplicitone
Member
Thank you! I'm still torn between which method but this gives a lot of good info
I dont live in the US.
I simply get the 2x Titan from someone who is living in the US. The rest im buying here in Germany.
Hey thanks RGM,
At Geizhals are often shops that I do not know or are not that known in Geramany, so I just went the the most popular one. Maybe I will go to alocal store and see what price they can offer for the parts. it was just a example with mindfactory. So all I need to look out for are faster Rams and better power supply ?
That's mainly it. Z97 can support faster RAM, there's little reason to go with slower RAM if it costs nearly the same as the faster one. The EVGA Supernova G1 isn't that bad of a power supply, it's just a previous model. Since then, EVGA has come out with the Supernova G2 and GS models.Hey thanks RGM,
At Geizhals are often shops that I do not know or are not that known in Geramany, so I just went the the most popular one. Maybe I will go to alocal store and see what price they can offer for the parts. it was just a example with mindfactory. So all I need to look out for are faster Rams and better power supply ?
Nostremitus
Member
I just don't want a stagnant market... Or maybe it really is time for x86 to decline...
Barajas_201
Member
Hey guys, I'm in a bit of a problem. My parents bought me an HP Compact 6005 Pro desktop PC and I see that it has a PSI port so I can put a graphics card... but the problem is that the PSU is only 240w. The case is also very small so I don't think any video card can fit. Am I out of luck for any upgrades?
I'm an expert
Formerly worldrevolution. The only reason I am nice to anyone else is to avoid being banned.
That's a workstation/business tower. You probably will not find a psu in that form factor that goes above 300 or 400w anyway. Not to mention it's HP so it more than likely has proprietary sizes and screw placement. Doubt you'll be able to upgrade it, though obviously it's not meant for it.
Affeinvasion
Member
For those of you who ordered a qualifying NVIDIA GPU from Amazon, how long did it take for you to get a code for Witcher 3?
Barajas_201
Member
So is there no small form factor GPU? I'm not aiming for amazing graphics or anything so I'll go for anything this PC can handle
HarryDemeanor
Member
Around a week.
Celcius
°Temp. member
I think I may have caught a lucky break:
I booted my pc today and the 3.3v rail was low like before.
Just as I was about to disassemble my pc, I remembered that when you test your psu's 3.3v rail using a digital multimeter, you have to test directly on the 24-pin connector. I actually use a sleeved 24-pin extension cable but for convenience the other day I unplugged my psu from it when testing the voltages. Today I removed the 24-pin extension cable completely and plugged in my psu into the motherboard, then booted into the bios and all of my voltages looked perfect. Then I exited the bios and my pc booted right into windows and I've been installing programs for the past hour! I guess it's possible that the 24-pin cable has gone bad over the past almost 2 years that I've been using it? or perhaps the wire has become loose or damaged? I'll run some prime95 after I'm done with these updates but I'm a happy camper right now.
I booted my pc today and the 3.3v rail was low like before.
Just as I was about to disassemble my pc, I remembered that when you test your psu's 3.3v rail using a digital multimeter, you have to test directly on the 24-pin connector. I actually use a sleeved 24-pin extension cable but for convenience the other day I unplugged my psu from it when testing the voltages. Today I removed the 24-pin extension cable completely and plugged in my psu into the motherboard, then booted into the bios and all of my voltages looked perfect. Then I exited the bios and my pc booted right into windows and I've been installing programs for the past hour! I guess it's possible that the 24-pin cable has gone bad over the past almost 2 years that I've been using it? or perhaps the wire has become loose or damaged? I'll run some prime95 after I'm done with these updates but I'm a happy camper right now.
Hey guys! I'm looking to build a new PC, but I'm really not very knowledgeable on how to choose each part. Any help would be so appreciated. Looking for a good PC that I can game, design on (PS and Illustrator), and also do some video editing on:
Budget: $800-$1000, US.
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest:
Gaming 4/5
General use 5/5
Video editing 3-4/5
Monitor Resolution: unsure
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: skyrim, evolve, games like that. Also Photoshop and illustrator, and video editing programs.
Looking to reuse any parts?: no
When will you build?: within the next month
Will you be overclocking?: no
Budget: $800-$1000, US.
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest:
Gaming 4/5
General use 5/5
Video editing 3-4/5
Monitor Resolution: unsure
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: skyrim, evolve, games like that. Also Photoshop and illustrator, and video editing programs.
Looking to reuse any parts?: no
When will you build?: within the next month
Will you be overclocking?: no
m_shortpants
Member
So I got all my parts...except the RAM and PSU. Dammit.
NCIX is LAGGING HARD on shipping. If it's not here by Friday I'll pick up the PSU from Fry's and return the other one to them, or I'll have to wait another week entirely. Ugh. Should've just paid the extra to order it from Amazon without any hassle.
NCIX is LAGGING HARD on shipping. If it's not here by Friday I'll pick up the PSU from Fry's and return the other one to them, or I'll have to wait another week entirely. Ugh. Should've just paid the extra to order it from Amazon without any hassle.
HarryDemeanor
Member
They always take a few days to ship for some reason. Took them around 4 days just to pick-up a power supply from their warehouse.
m_shortpants
Member
The worst part is that in their system, it has "shipped" when all they've done is create a shipping label.
I even paid extra for expedited shipping -_-
I'm seriously considering just buying it from Amazon and sending this one back.
So is there no small form factor GPU? I'm not aiming for amazing graphics or anything so I'll go for anything this PC can handle
I dunno what your specs are, but I think the strongest graphics card you can get would be a GTX 750 Ti, it's fairly power efficient and will run fine with even a relatively weak 200 watt power supply. PCPer did an article about upgrading low end OEM PCs with the GTX 750 Ti and it was quite successful. And yeah, that graphics card also comes in low form factor size, like these two models.
MSI GTX 750 Ti low profile for $154
Gigabyte GTX 750 Ti low profile for $152
Both should fit in that small HP case, I believe they come with low profile brackets.
If it's within the next month then prices can still change, especially for things like case, motherboard, and RAM. Use this build as a guideline, you should check back here and we'll redo the parts list for best pricing just before you buy.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($316.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card ($314.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Graphite Series 230T Black ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($43.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1002.32
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-29 22:30 EDT-0400
For the strongest graphics card performance, I decided to recommend the GTX 970. If you don't mind dropping down to the cheaper but only slightly lower performing R9 290, you could fit an SSD or larger hard drive in there.
Without graphics benchmarks, it's hard to say for certain what graphics card to recommend. I feel that the GTX 970 should be very capable if the gaming press reports are true that the GTX 980 can handle Witcher 3 max graphics settings at 1080p. Although the R9 290 generally performs just under the GTX 970, driver performance and optimization may make a difference for the R9 290.
Another place to save money would be the processor. Although I can recommend the 4790K for video editing and encoding, the 4690K doesn't really lag that far behind in applications like Photoshop and Premiere, and is a solid option if you don't need the fastest render times. You didn't say what video editing programs you use but if you use Sony Vegas, the R9 290 is a very good option as it beats the GTX 970 in rendering performance for much less money.
One last thing: If you live near a Microcenter, I recommend you try to pick up their in-store only i5 4690K and ASrock Z97 Pro4 motherboard bundle for $250. That'll save you quite a bit of money that you could put towards an SSD or larger hard drive, or just pocket the difference.
I got two out of three boxes yesterday. Unfortunately, the third box is my RAM, shipped from a different Newegg depot. Doh. Tomorrow, hopefully...
Got everything so far assembled in the case, bar hooking up power connectors to the drives. So far so good. I ended up going with 16GB of ram & the overclockable i7 after a talk with our lead tech dude at work - the hyper threading should, allegedly, make a difference for me with our application. I'd rather pay an extra $100 or so & not second guess myself. Thanks again, everyone, for the build choice help. I'm sure I'll be back tomorrow for build questions
I think I may have caught a lucky break:
I booted my pc today and the 3.3v rail was low like before.
Just as I was about to disassemble my pc, I remembered that when you test your psu's 3.3v rail using a digital multimeter, you have to test directly on the 24-pin connector. I actually use a sleeved 24-pin extension cable but for convenience the other day I unplugged my psu from it when testing the voltages. Today I removed the 24-pin extension cable completely and plugged in my psu into the motherboard, then booted into the bios and all of my voltages looked perfect. Then I exited the bios and my pc booted right into windows and I've been installing programs for the past hour! I guess it's possible that the 24-pin cable has gone bad over the past almost 2 years that I've been using it? or perhaps the wire has become loose or damaged? I'll run some prime95 after I'm done with these updates but I'm a happy camper right now.
Man, I hate problems like that. At least you don't have to worry about a bad PSU or motherboard now.
m_shortpants
Member
I got two out of three boxes yesterday. Unfortunately, the third box is my RAM, shipped from a different Newegg depot. Doh. Tomorrow, hopefully...
Got everything so far assembled in the case, bar hooking up power connectors to the drives. So far so good. I ended up going with 16GB of ram & the overclockable i7 after a talk with our lead tech dude at work - the hyper threading should, allegedly, make a difference for me with our application. I'd rather pay an extra $100 or so & not second guess myself. Thanks again, everyone, for the build choice help. I'm sure I'll be back tomorrow for build questions
Same here...got my mobo, cpu, ssd, and gpu from Newegg CA and the RAM is coming from Newegg Indiana. But at least with Newegg's shipping I have a guaranteed delivery date later this week and it's actually already in California, which is great!
NCIX on the other hand is really lagging. I emailed their support and she was bullshitting telling me that UPS takes 48 hours to update...when it never takes that long with Amazon or Newegg?
Seriously considering just sending theirs back if I don't get it by Friday. I'd rather pay extra and just get the PSU locally and be able to build this weekend. I kind of regret getting it from them just to save a bit of money. Amazon has really spoiled me *_*
xplicitone
Member
Well, just got my GTX 980 FTW in the mail today. I'm fairly pumped. Haven't opened it yet.
I'm just not ready to give up my 580 SuperClocked (even though a couple of people are interested from B/S/T). It was my first graphics card I ever bought. Not only that, I'd be fairly upset at myself if 980 Ti comes out by June.
I'll probably open it tomorrow after I finalize a deal with my old.
I'm just not ready to give up my 580 SuperClocked (even though a couple of people are interested from B/S/T). It was my first graphics card I ever bought. Not only that, I'd be fairly upset at myself if 980 Ti comes out by June.
I'll probably open it tomorrow after I finalize a deal with my old.
Well im having thoughts about adding another 970 gtx so.. I have 970 gtx, asus p8p67 , i7 2600k @ 5ghz and 16 gb ram .. So in order to add another 970 i have to get a new mobo, my question is , do you guys think it worth it im not some freak about 4k and stuff just wanna get a smooth 60 fps+ on 1440p +- on the newest game , is it worth it ?
That's what the EVGA "Step-Up" trade-in program is for. No idea if the 980 Ti will drop in June, though.
Some people have reservations about GTX 970 SLI because of the 3.5GB VRAM issue. Getting a new socket 1155 motherboard actually does cost a lot, though, more or less in the same price range as a decent current-generation Z97 motherboard.
Yea if im gonna get a new motherboard ill get asus one i saw earlier dont demember the exact model but u can 2 way sli on it and its about 150$ ahh idk if i should get another 970
Alright. I'm possibly looking to build a new PC now to replace my 6 year old one. It's certainly time to replace, because it's so old it's actually not hitting min-spec on most games. I'm looking for something that will be great now, but hopefully age gracefully like my old one so I can get a good 4-6 years out of it. Thought you guys could look over my part list. After looking at way too many articles and reviews, here's sort of what I landed on.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($224.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 EXTREME6 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($146.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($119.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($329.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT Phantom 410 (Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($92.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG UH12NS30 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($35.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1032.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-30 02:57 EDT-0400
Some basic info, I already have a decent regular HDD and power supply from my old one, so I think I'll just carry those over. I don't really need a new case, but I really want something that looks new and different just to give me that new PC feel. That's why I picked that one. Good combination of dumb over the top looks and price. Might grab a different color though. My needs ratings.
Budget: $800-$1000. Just over 1,000 is the absolute max
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest:
Gaming 5/5
General use 3/5
Video editing 1/5
Monitor Resolution: 1080p right now. Would like the option to push it up in the future without losing huge performance, but not a deal breaker
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Um, good question. For me, it's probably just the big hits. Witcher 3 is the big push for me to upgrade.
Looking to reuse any parts?: PSU, HDD
When will you build?: Hopefully 1-3 months. Will happen in the next 4 at the latest
Will you be overclocking?: No plans, but I've done it and am capable of doing it again.
Thanks guys! Really hope I actually get the cash around to build a new one. Would be super exciting.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($224.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 EXTREME6 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($146.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($119.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($329.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT Phantom 410 (Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($92.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG UH12NS30 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($35.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1032.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-30 02:57 EDT-0400
Some basic info, I already have a decent regular HDD and power supply from my old one, so I think I'll just carry those over. I don't really need a new case, but I really want something that looks new and different just to give me that new PC feel. That's why I picked that one. Good combination of dumb over the top looks and price. Might grab a different color though. My needs ratings.
Budget: $800-$1000. Just over 1,000 is the absolute max
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest:
Gaming 5/5
General use 3/5
Video editing 1/5
Monitor Resolution: 1080p right now. Would like the option to push it up in the future without losing huge performance, but not a deal breaker
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Um, good question. For me, it's probably just the big hits. Witcher 3 is the big push for me to upgrade.
Looking to reuse any parts?: PSU, HDD
When will you build?: Hopefully 1-3 months. Will happen in the next 4 at the latest
Will you be overclocking?: No plans, but I've done it and am capable of doing it again.
Thanks guys! Really hope I actually get the cash around to build a new one. Would be super exciting.
For a starting build it's fine. Broadwell processors will probably be out by the time you plan to be building your new PC, so I expect your parts list to change quite a bit and I won't be doing my usual "costs optimization" thing here. Help in terms of general recommendations?
Maybe look for higher speed RAM, as 2x4GB of 1866/2133/2400MHz can often be found for $55 or less. No real downside to going with faster RAM if it's available for a good price.
I'd keep an eye on the graphics card situation in June. New cards are coming out, as well as possible price drops.
That blu-ray drive doesn't come with any blu-ray movie player software. Just a heads up, but given how blu-ray is a licensed tech, don't expect free players to just play blu-ray movie discs easily. There's free options like this VLC addon to decrypt blu-ray movies, but I haven't personally tried it, and who knows if it'll still be viable in the future. Otherwise, you'll have to pay for blu-ray movie player software.
I'm thinking about upgrading my rig. The current one is:
Intel i5-3470
Asus GeForce 660 Ti OC 2GB
8GB RAM
Power supply: Corsair HX520W
I'm thinking about changing GPU, since this card is a bit too weak for the most demanding games out there. So, I would like to ask what would currently be the best GPU for that config? Just have in mind the fact, that the power supply is around 5 years old so it may be not at the peak of its efficiency (just guessing here, though, since it's really good power supply afaik)
Intel i5-3470
Asus GeForce 660 Ti OC 2GB
8GB RAM
Power supply: Corsair HX520W
I'm thinking about changing GPU, since this card is a bit too weak for the most demanding games out there. So, I would like to ask what would currently be the best GPU for that config? Just have in mind the fact, that the power supply is around 5 years old so it may be not at the peak of its efficiency (just guessing here, though, since it's really good power supply afaik)
Good stuff to know. I feel like every time I learn how to shop for PC parts, by the time I shop again I lose all that ability and have to pick it back up. As for the Broadwell stuff, do we know when they're dropping? I always have a terrible time finding info about processor and graphics cards and such. Is it going to be a really significant improvement over the old stuff? My ideal, ideal time to get this done is by end of May when Witcher 3 hits. It might not happen, but I definitely would love to have an idea if it's worth pushing back my plans or if the boost isn't going to be that huge to warrant it.
As for the lack of player software, yeah I knew that. I mostly am getting a Blu-ray drive, because at this point why not. If I use it at all, it'll probably be to rip my current collection.
Broadwell's expected to release sometime this summer. Can't say for sure, but it seems like Broadwell will just be a slight improvement over the current stuff at best, mainly just more efficient and lower heat.
The rumors for the new high end graphics cards (R9 390X, GTX 980 Ti) say they will be higher performance than the GTX 980 and possibly close to the Titan X's performance for a better price, but those cards will probably be out of your price range. What you might be hoping and waiting for is a potential price cut on the existing Nvidia GTX 970/980 to counter the new AMD R9 3XX lineup. No idea about pricing on those R9 3XX cards, but if they are like the HD7XXX being rebadged into the middle R9 2XX line, then they'll be slightly updated cards for the same price as their predecessors.. I think, at least. I sort of remember the R9 280/280X costing the same as the HD7950/7970 that they were based on and replacing.
Good info. The 970 right is my perfect price range, so the higher end cards really aren't there for me. Sounds like if Broadwell's out by the time I build, I'll adjust my build for it, but otherwise I'll just grab the current stuff. I'll definitely keep an eye out for any video card price drops, because that would be super helpful for just tweaking the cost a bit lower.
Oh, I don't recommend you buy anything yet. Warranty coverage is just going to start running out early and you might not discover that something is defective until you build it a couple of weeks or months later. Current motherboards are going to need a new BIOS revision to support Broadwell CPUs, and you can't update the BIOS on an existing motherboard unless you already have a working CPU so you should probably just wait for Broadwell-compatible motherboards to start shipping. New motherboards this year are starting to incorporate USB 3.1 and the type C connector. Some are already available for sale, but there aren't a lot.
If you really want to start buying stuff, I guess the case, RAM, and blu-ray drive are safe to buy, no real worries about compatibility or defective returns there. Still.. it's not like the case is on sale, though. PCPartPicker's price tracker info says the Phantom 410 red model dropped to $75 in the past, so you might as well wait for that to happen again.
The blu-ray drive is at a sale price. It's $35 after rebate now, and it's been that low before, so it's good to buy.
If you want to buy RAM now, it's a alright time. DDR3 is actually dropping in price steadily for the last while. But maybe it will keep dropping to the point that you might be able to afford 16GB if you wait. Right now at the cheapest, even fairly high speed 8GB is about $50 and 16GB is $100.
I meant it more as if I get the cash for the build, I'll buy it at that time, rather than wait for Broadwell or anything since that doesn't seem like it'll be really worth putting off everything for. I would, ideally, like to have something for the Witcher 3 if I can afford it around then. Not going to part it out or anything. If I can't afford what I want to grab pre-broadwell, I'll adjust the MOBO and other parts to be compatible.
Also, yeah I would never part out and "stock up" ahead of time. That's a little silly unless you hit a really awesome sale. All the builds I've done I've just bought pretty much all at once. It's an easier (and way more fun) way to go.
Ah, sorry, misread what you meant. I think it's time for me to get some sleep, anyway.
Chinbo37
Member
Hi Gaf,
I built a gaming PC back in 2013 with the help of you guys and this thread.
I am just about to upgrade by 680 with a 970. Of course I am thinking about future upgrades.
I think my 3770K is still fine as I have yet to overclock it, my z77 MSI Mobo is fine as well.
Generally I was thinking - any reason to upgrade my DDR3 RAM from 1600 to 2100 or similar?
I built a gaming PC back in 2013 with the help of you guys and this thread.
I am just about to upgrade by 680 with a 970. Of course I am thinking about future upgrades.
I think my 3770K is still fine as I have yet to overclock it, my z77 MSI Mobo is fine as well.
Generally I was thinking - any reason to upgrade my DDR3 RAM from 1600 to 2100 or similar?
Spotty Ren
Member
(Errors in the post, will re-post later.)
You're golden. No point in upgrading the ram. Stick a good video card in and you're done. Congrats on the good purchase two years ago
Chinbo37
Member
You're golden. No point in upgrading the ram. Stick a good video card in and you're done. Congrats on the good purchase two years ago
LOL it was my first build in 20 years and basically copy pasted from the High End GAF suggestion build. So it was thanks to you guys!!!
sackboy2197
Member
I was reading on Reddit that using an HDMI directly while building might lead to problems; is that true? Should I keep a vga/dvi around for when I'm building?
Fudgepuppy
Banned
I'm playing GTA V on my 660ti and am very disappointed in the textures on medium. Was planning on getting a new GPU for Arkham Knight, but I've got some cash over and am thinking of buying a new GPU now instead.
Should I wait for a better GPU or splurge now?
Should I wait for a better GPU or splurge now?
Chinbo37
Member
Honestly if you check this thread and espeically the NVIDIA 980/970 thread you will see this question asked over and over.
Basic idea is that no one knows although there MIGHT be the following announced sometime soon;
- 980ti (or something similar, basically a better 980/cut down Titan X)
- 8 gig 980
But really I think no one knows.
I just bought a 970 and figure what the hell. NVIDIA retains a good resale value so I can always sell it later to recoup some of the costs.
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