• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

Status
Not open for further replies.

Widdla

Neo Member
I called ASUS a few months back, and they kept telling me it was a graphics card issue or an issue with the cable. But now I've changed the cable and I'm having the same problem with another graphics card.

I wonder if the monitor is defective, or if there's something I can adjust to fix this... I just don't know what.
 

Random17

Member
I want to play Arma 3 at max/close to max settings while spending as little as possible on a GPU. What's the best value for money at the moment, including power consumption being taken into account?

Win 7 64bit
i5 3470
1600x900 monitor
8GB DDR3
Aiming for 40FPS at the minimum
No overclocking but something more powerful than the PS4 (theoretically)

I read the OP and I can't decide between an R265 or a 750ti.

Another issue is that my PC is in a relatively enclosed space, and it has only a few cm of room between a desk + curtains and its side + rear ventilation inlets. The top and front fans are not blocked. This is temporary until I get a new desk but I'd like to know that buying and using a GPU won't destroy my PC completely. I'm thinking of spending a little extra for the multifan 750ti as opposed to the single fan one.

http://www.pbtech.co.nz/index.php?z=c&p=video_cards&o=price&d=a
 

knitoe

Member
I called ASUS a few months back, and they kept telling me it was a graphics card issue or an issue with the cable. But now I've changed the cable and I'm having the same problem with another graphics card.

I wonder if the monitor is defective, or if there's something I can adjust to fix this... I just don't know what.
Go to local store with a full X days return policy and buy a monitor to test.
 

stabi

Neo Member
Yay I'm quite the noob in pc building but I managed to make it work

the issue was indeed about PSU to GPU connection.
The first "setup" of connecting with the 6+2pin and 6pin pcie cables was not the solution

What I did to make it work is what I suspected earlier today at work
- unplug GPU
- go to bios, disable onboard graphics
- plug GPU with 6+2 pcie cable + 8 pin pcie cable using molex connector
- start PC

I'm in a so relaaaxed & happy mood now;
Hardware stuff are so expensive and hard to troubleshoot, it really is stressing when it's not working

Just for the sake, I'd like to thank Sapphire for the lack of user/installation guide. I googled and navigated their website today and was not able to find anything helpful


Going to install dragon age and have some fun.
Thanks guys for providing info on component compatibilities =)
 
What do you guys think is going on with my friends computer? His PSU failed, he had it replaced by some fly by night place and when he got it back now his computer doesn't post to the OS or even the UEFI. It just turns on and off repeatedly. We've tried multiple power supplies but that doesn't appear to solve the issue. Does it sound like a motherboard issue?
 

knitoe

Member
What do you guys think is going on with my friends computer? His PSU failed, he had it replaced by some fly by night place and when he got it back now his computer doesn't post to the OS or even the UEFI. It just turns on and off repeatedly. We've tried multiple power supplies but that doesn't appear to solve the issue. Does it sound like a motherboard issue?
That would be my guess too, MB went bad.
 

RGM79

Member
thank you.

i noticed the mobo being a micro atx. isn't that for a smaller-sized tower? are there any drawbacks like heat and/or airflow or not really? probably not, since it'll be a single standard setup.

also, this is probably dumb to ask but wifi is available from the get-go with this setup, right? or do i need a wifi usb adapter?

i honestly thought this will be cheaper, buy holy smokes an i5-4690k and 970 setup runs in the 1000-dollar range.

Both the case and motherboard are mATX, they fit together, the motherboard won't be smaller than the case has room for. The airflow will depending on a bunch of things, mostly case design, but also fan placement, number of fans, internal components, etc. If you're worried, Hardware Secrets, Hardware Canucks and Tweaktown all loved the case, airflow should not be a problem.

What sort of keyboard should I get? Just any old regular keyboard? I'd rather not spend more than $50

Do you have any specific features in mind? Backlights, macros, media keys, etc?

I want to play Arma 3 at max/close to max settings while spending as little as possible on a GPU. What's the best value for money at the moment, including power consumption being taken into account?

Win 7 64bit
i5 3470
1600x900 monitor
8GB DDR3
Aiming for 40FPS at the minimum
No overclocking but something more powerful than the PS4 (theoretically)

I read the OP and I can't decide between an R265 or a 750ti.

Another issue is that my PC is in a relatively enclosed space, and it has only a few cm of room between a desk + curtains and its side + rear ventilation inlets. The top and front fans are not blocked. This is temporary until I get a new desk but I'd like to know that buying and using a GPU won't destroy my PC completely. I'm thinking of spending a little extra for the multifan 750ti as opposed to the single fan one.

http://www.pbtech.co.nz/index.php?z=c&p=video_cards&o=price&d=a

That's not going to be easy, Arma 3 requires a very high end CPU and GPU for ultra settings. The 750 Ti won't cut it for 40FPS, just 30FPS. Assuming you won't upgrade your CPU. What's your budget for a graphics card? Judging from the choices you mentioned, $120?

http--www.gamegpu.ru-images-stories-Test_GPU-Action-ARMA_III-test-a3_1920_u.jpg
 
i noticed the mobo being a micro atx. isn't that for a smaller-sized tower? are there any drawbacks like heat and/or airflow or not really? probably not, since it'll be a single standard setup.
Depending on the design and manufacturer of your mobo, mATX models have the top PCI-E 3.0 slot be really close to the bottom of any aftermarket heat sink you install and if you have two PCI-E x16 slots, the bottom one might only have 8 channels, which does cause a minor performance hit if you put your GPU there (it was like 1-2% back when the GTX680 was the top dog, might be worse now).
 

ricki42

Member
I want to play Arma 3 at max/close to max settings while spending as little as possible on a GPU. What's the best value for money at the moment, including power consumption being taken into account?

I read the OP and I can't decide between an R265 or a 750ti.

Another issue is that my PC is in a relatively enclosed space, and it has only a few cm of room between a desk + curtains and its side + rear ventilation inlets. The top and front fans are not blocked. This is temporary until I get a new desk but I'd like to know that buying and using a GPU won't destroy my PC completely. I'm thinking of spending a little extra for the multifan 750ti as opposed to the single fan one.

I found this benchmark that includes both cards specifically for Arma 3. The frame rate on the R7 265 is on average ~10 fps higher than on the 750 Ti.
The 265 performs better in most games but also has a higher power consumption.
 

RGM79

Member
Yay I'm quite the noob in pc building but I managed to make it work

the issue was indeed about PSU to GPU connection.
The first "setup" of connecting with the 6+2pin and 6pin pcie cables was not the solution

What I did to make it work is what I suspected earlier today at work
- unplug GPU
- go to bios, disable onboard graphics
- plug GPU with 6+2 pcie cable + 8 pin pcie cable using molex connector
- start PC

I'm in a so relaaaxed & happy mood now;
Hardware stuff are so expensive and hard to troubleshoot, it really is stressing when it's not working

Just for the sake, I'd like to thank Sapphire for the lack of user/installation guide. I googled and navigated their website today and was not able to find anything helpful


Going to install dragon age and have some fun.
Thanks guys for providing info on component compatibilities =)

What power supply do you have? It doesn't have enough connectors so you need to use a molex adaptor?

What do you guys think is going on with my friends computer? His PSU failed, he had it replaced by some fly by night place and when he got it back now his computer doesn't post to the OS or even the UEFI. It just turns on and off repeatedly. We've tried multiple power supplies but that doesn't appear to solve the issue. Does it sound like a motherboard issue?

Doesn't sound like the PSU. Any LED status lights? Confirm with the manual to check what they mean.
 

stabi

Neo Member
I have the antec bp550

It has two built-in cables:
a 4-4 pin that I connected to the cpu
a 6+2 pcie pin that i connected to the gpu
the cable for the mobo

then it has
four 6pin 12v1/hdd slots. As of now, two of them are connected to hdd and one to my gpu with a molex adaptor so it becomes a 8pin on the end
one 6pin 12v3 pcie/hdd

when i tried to connect with the 6pin 12v3 pcie/hdd and connected it to the gpu (6 pin on the end), it wasn't working
 

Random17

Member
I found this benchmark that includes both cards specifically for Arma 3. The frame rate on the R7 265 is on average ~10 fps higher than on the 750 Ti.
The 265 performs better in most games but also has a higher power consumption.

That's not going to be easy, Arma 3 requires a very high end CPU and GPU for ultra settings. The 750 Ti won't cut it for 40FPS, just 30FPS. Assuming you won't upgrade your CPU. What's your budget for a graphics card? Judging from the choices you mentioned, $120?
Huh, thanks. Do you think at 1600x900 with shadows disabled, 40FPS will be doable?

My budget extends no more than the 270x, but I'd like to spend as little as I can get away with.
 

The Llama

Member
Huh, thanks. Do you think at 1600x900 with shadows disabled, 40FPS will be doable?

My budget extends no more than the 270x, but I'd like to spend as little as I can get away with.

It's really hard to say. Arma 3 is just a very demanding game in general, so don't have high expectations.
 

RyuHei

Member
What do you guys think is going on with my friends computer? His PSU failed, he had it replaced by some fly by night place and when he got it back now his computer doesn't post to the OS or even the UEFI. It just turns on and off repeatedly. We've tried multiple power supplies but that doesn't appear to solve the issue. Does it sound like a motherboard issue?



It's 100% motherboard. I just had something like that last week. Replaced motherboard and was all working again.
 

RGM79

Member
I have the antec bp550

It has two built-in cables:
a 4-4 pin that I connected to the cpu
a 6+2 pcie pin that i connected to the gpu
the cable for the mobo

then it has
four 6pin 12v1/hdd slots. As of now, two of them are connected to hdd and one to my gpu with a molex adaptor so it becomes a 8pin on the end
one 6pin 12v3 pcie/hdd

when i tried to connect with the 6pin 12v3 pcie/hdd and connected it to the gpu (6 pin on the end), it wasn't working

Odd. Well, if you have to use the molex adaptor, make sure the molex adaptor is connected to two different 12v cables to ensure it's getting enough power.

Huh, thanks. Do you think at 1600x900 with shadows disabled, 40FPS will be doable?

My budget extends no more than the 270x, but I'd like to spend as little as I can get away with.

Just wondering, where are you buying the graphics card? In the US at least, the cheapest R9 270X is just $5 more than the cheapest R7 265, making the 270X a much better deal.
 

Flandy

Member
Do you have any specific features in mind? Backlights, macros, media keys, etc?

Not really. Just something that can take a lot of use, is comfortable, and quiet. Are backlights useful?

edit: What's so special about mechanical keyboards?
 

Archaonlotr

Neo Member
Welp that makes things easy. I have an MSI 980 Gaming.

You will need some twist ties. For the second power connector (left in the picture) (on both cards), you will want to tie it to the right most power cable so that it is flat/flush with the cable. Second, you want both your power cables going flat. Since you have them facing upward, this make take some bending and twisting to get them to set in a different position. Finally, on both cards, you should be able to tie the power cable to the actual outside frame of the chassis (just makes sure you do not block the heat sink).

Ultimately the best thing I can say is try to train the power cables to run flat with the card. You may have to take them all off and bend and hold them. But that with twist ties should do the trick. If you case does not allow this (cable slot is higher than the bottom card) then you will have to some bending of the cable for the bottom card and get some of the cable to go along the side of the case and then bend 90 degrees to the card. Not sure how your case is arranged so I can't really help there.

After redoing the video cards for best airflow, clean cable install as you suggested
the drooping video cards annoyed me to much

So i got some Velcro cable ties - and make a homemade solution, cards run great now :)

15868479119_689c24ce84_b.jpg
 
im looking to buy a new keyboard and im split between the K70 or the Logitech Illuminated. mechanical vs illumination reliability. i would buy a Corsair K30 if it didn't have the function keys. does anyone have suggestions?
 

RGM79

Member
Not really. Just something that can take a lot of use, is comfortable, and quiet. Are backlights useful?

edit: What's so special about mechanical keyboards?

Something basic then? Backlights are for use in dark environments or at night. Not really useful if you can touch type.

Mechanical keyboards use mechanical key switches rather than a rubber pad under each key. It's mostly a subjective thing, people who prefer mechanical keyboards like the tactile feel and some say it's more comfortable to type on. Generally, mechanical keyboards will be louder than rubber dome keyboards (the most common kind), although there are mechanical key switches that are meant to be quiet. They do tend to cost more than $50, though.

As for comfort, do you mean you want an ergonomic keyboard that curves?

Here, let me just link you to a keyboard guide.


im looking to buy a new keyboard and im split between the K70 or the Logitech Illuminated. mechanical vs illumination reliability. i would buy a Corsair K30 if it didn't have the function keys. does anyone have suggestions?

What do you mean by "illumination reliability"? All of the keyboards you mentioned are backlit.
 
What do you mean by "illumination reliability"? All of the keyboards you mentioned are backlit.

i read a lot about the K70's back light problems.. people experienced the LED's going out entirely or a few at a time after several months of use. I think its why Corsair decided to revise the location of the lights from above the switch to inside or below it? i have the Logitech illuminated for the last 2 years and i never had any problems with it. its just incredibly difficult to clean.
 
i read a lot about the K70's back light problems.. people experienced the LED's going out entirely or a few at a time after several months of use. I think its why Corsair decided to revise the location of the lights from above the switch to inside or below it? i have the Logitech illuminated for the last 2 years and i never had any problems with it. its just incredibly difficult to clean.

I don't know about the problems. I bought a K70 maybe 8-10 months ago and it's been perfectly fine for me.

I'd just go with whichever one feels better to you, if you can test them out in a store somewhere.
 

Archaonlotr

Neo Member
i read a lot about the K70's back light problems.. people experienced the LED's going out entirely or a few at a time after several months of use. I think its why Corsair decided to revise the location of the lights from above the switch to inside or below it? i have the Logitech illuminated for the last 2 years and i never had any problems with it. its just incredibly difficult to clean.

I had the K70 but hated how dirty it got, the keys stick out to much and hair / dirt / etc... just gathers underneath and looks really bad

If you want a good mech keyboard that is illuminated - check out the "Ducky" range
 
I had the K70 but hated how dirty it got, the keys stick out to much and hair / dirt / etc... just gathers underneath and looks really bad

If you want a good mech keyboard that is illuminated - check out the "Ducky" range

i thought Corsair included the key cap remover and the design is open? how long does it take for the keyboard to look dirty? maybe a can of air will help.
 

Archaonlotr

Neo Member
i thought Corsair included the key cap remover and the design is open? how long does it take for the keyboard to look dirty? maybe a can of air will help.

It was also the worst mech keyboard i have owned to type with imo

as of 2014 - owned the below

Corsair K90 (basically the K70 + all the macro buttons)
Ducky Shine v2 and v3
DAS Pro model 3

Just hated how the switches were raised on the Corsair, in my personal experience it was the worst of the bunch
 

RGM79

Member
I had the K70 but hated how dirty it got, the keys stick out to much and hair / dirt / etc... just gathers underneath and looks really bad

If you want a good mech keyboard that is illuminated - check out the "Ducky" range

i thought Corsair included the key cap remover and the design is open? how long does it take for the keyboard to look dirty? maybe a can of air will help.

Due to the exposed design it's easier for stuff to get in there, but also easier to clean out.

?

Also what's the PC3 number for? Also looking at this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-231-653 The speed is higher but so is the voltage.

The numbers refer to different speeds. The higher the number, the faster it is. However, high speed RAM can come with higher latency (the CL number, generally somewhere from CL8 to CL13) and some RAM needs to run at higher voltages.

I wouldn't recommend either of those two memory kits, they're expensive. Right now there's a good deal on low profile memory - 8GB of Patriot Viper 3 DDR3-2133 for $60 after $7 mail in rebate.
 

nick nacc

Banned
Anyone here use an inwin 901 and a r9 290 combo. I was wondering if it would fit.


I currently have a nzxt h440 white. I just think its too big and the inwin is outside a hackintosh the only case that I think is actually good looking. It's a shame I might have to get the inwin 904 if I don't feel like selling my mobo. Ugh.
 

RGM79

Member
Anyone here use an inwin 901 and a r9 290 combo. I was wondering if it would fit.


I currently have a nzxt h440 white. I just think its too big and the inwin is outside a hackintosh the only case that I think is actually good looking. It's a shame I might have to get the inwin 904 if I don't feel like selling my mobo. Ugh.
Which R9 290 model do you have, exactly? Dimensions can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer because of different cooler sizes.
 
Due to the exposed design it's easier for stuff to get in there, but also easier to clean out.



The numbers refer to different speeds. The higher the number, the faster it is. However, high speed RAM can come with higher latency (the CL number, generally somewhere from CL8 to CL13) and some RAM needs to run at higher voltages.

I wouldn't recommend either of those two memory kits, they're expensive. Right now there's a good deal on low profile memory - 8GB of Patriot Viper 3 DDR3-2133 for $60 after $7 mail in rebate.
Thanks but I just ordered the second set. The $15 off promo worked so it was only $64.98.
 
Looking for a good <$150 case that would fit 11.5-12 inch gpu. Without having to removing the HDD cage preferably.

What you guys recommend?
 

RGM79

Member
Looking for a good <$150 case that would fit 11.5-12 inch gpu. Without having to removing the HDD cage preferably.

What you guys recommend?

Do you have any preference for the type of case you want? A budget of $150 will get you a lot of different cases. Case size (ATX, micro ATX, mini ITX)? Sound absorbing? Design style?

Because you don't want to remove drive cages, I assume you have a lot of hard drives you need the case to accommodate? What graphics card do you have?

The Fractal Define R5 ($120) can accommodate 300mm which is just shy of 12 inches.
 
Oh. I think it'd be better spent on something that rarely drops under $75 like a SSD or something, but it's your call.
I had placed the order before I saw your post. I figure it will be too much of a hassle to cancel. Also the set you linked didn't have any reviews.
 

Random17

Member
Looking around, it seems that the GTX 750 Ti is best, when taking power consumption into account. At 1600x900, it will probably do 40FPS at high-ish settings.

PCPartsPicker has a New Zealand price database, and the cheapest model is the Gigabyte Windforce GTX 750 Ti at PBTech for $229 NZD.

Thanks! Also, since my PC was never meant to be a gaming PC, it has a CM RS500W "Extreme Power Plus" which is (apparently) very bad. Is it worth spending $150NZD to get a Gold PSU with a 750ti or 270x? I've had the PSU for more than 2 years now so the warranty is gone as far as I know.
 

Shantom

Member
My motherboard has broke on my new PC. Does anyone have any experience with Asrock's UK support? How long would it take for them to send a replacement?
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks! Also, since my PC was never meant to be a gaming PC, it has a CM RS500W "Extreme Power Plus" which is (apparently) very bad. Is it worth spending $150NZD to get a Gold PSU with a 750ti or 270x? I've had the PSU for more than 2 years now so the warranty is gone as far as I know.

Looking up reviews, that model seems to have been a mediocre power supply in terms of efficiency and how clean the power output was. I checked PBTech for power supplies and unfortunately, there's not a big selection. The cheapest power supply from there that I can recommend is the Corsair CS450M at $110 NZD which seems overpriced, even accounting for NZ prices.

I'm not sure what your overall budget is, but I'm assuming you want to stay under $300 NZD for both parts. I don't know how trustworthy the following retailers are, so be mindful, I found them via pricespy.co.nz.

Antec HCG 520 watts for $96 NZD / Hardware Secrets review
Corsair CX430M for $70 NZD / Legit Reviews review
Silverstone Strider Essential 500 watts for $86 / Sweclockers review (scroll down)
Silverstone Strider Essential 400 watts for $60 / almost as good as the 500 watt version, also in the above review

As for actual power usage, You should be fine with 350 watts easily. The GTX 750 Ti requires no external power cables. A 500 watt power supply will leave room for upgrades in the future, though.
 
So, here is my final build:

(This pc is a gift for a couple of gamers. Recycling my previous build parts with some new ones, on a budget.)

New parts:
CPU: IntelCore i5 4460
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-H97M-D3H (micro atx)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy M
total= 347 euros
Recycled parts:
RAM: G.Skill Kit Extreme3 2 x 4 Go Sniper 1600 MHz CAS 9
GPU: Club 3D Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition - 1 Go
PSU: Corsair CX430M Bronze Modular - 430W
SSD: Samsung 830- 128 Go
HDD: 500 gig (from old alienware laptop)


I am now in the hunt of a good cpu cooler that's not too massive: I know the Prodigy M allows for quite big ones, but I'd like something smaller than the usual 16mm tall radiators if possible. Preferably on the cheap side.
 

Wounded

Member
I'm thinking of selling my R9 295x2 and buying SLI 980s or 970s.

It's just because I'm getting a bit sick of driver performance etc with AMD. Would anyone recommend against or for doing so?

Thanks.
 

diaspora

Member
I'm thinking of selling my R9 295x2 and buying SLI 980s or 970s.

It's just because I'm getting a bit sick of driver performance etc with AMD. Would anyone recommend against or for doing so?

Thanks.

You're going to get better day-1 performance, but imo it's not worth it. A setup like that isn't worth changing unless it's for a significant improvement in performance.
 

Wounded

Member
You're going to get better day-1 performance, but imo it's not worth it. A setup like that isn't worth changing unless it's for a significant improvement in performance.

I should have noted I have a 3440x1440 monitor, so SLI/Crossfire is a must for me really.

I'm probably suffering from grass is greener syndrome.
 
I'm thinking of selling my R9 295x2 and buying SLI 980s or 970s.

It's just because I'm getting a bit sick of driver performance etc with AMD. Would anyone recommend against or for doing so?

Thanks.
Both companies are going to have issues with new releases at times. That's just how it goes sometimes.

If you want to switch, then switch. Not sure why you would need someones opinion on that.
 

kharma45

Member
Switching to Nvidia would get you better multi GPU support, their nicer software ecosystem and less power consumption.

You'll still have issues no matter what brand you go with, always the case with multi GPU.
 

TMC

Member
I have a quick question about buying a Blu ray drive and I apologize if this is not the correct place to ask this. I am planning to get an OEM drive so it will not come with any kind of Blu ray playback software. I am interested in getting a Blu ray drive for the sole purpose of ripping my Blu ray collection to my HDD. Do I need that expensive software to rip Blu rays or is MakeMKV and Handbrake enough? I want to ensure I can buy a Blu ray drive without needing to drop $60-$100 on software to read/play the Blu ray discs.

Thanks guys!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom