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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
If you're using chrome then there's a bug that causes insane amount of tearing. I know you said you had it during games aswell, in which case d3doverrider should work for most games.
Try installing the original flash player and use firefox and you should not have any tearing. You could also use Chromium (not to be mistaken with chrome).
Thanks so much RGM! You are awesome as always!
I was only curious as I've not used Nvidia since the 8800GTX, and I'm not familiar with their SLI performance etc.
trailmix16
Member
Hi guys, I'm having some trouble using PCPartPicker, it doesn't seem to recognize some of the older components in my build.
Is it possible to find a small-as-possible-case that can incorporate some or all of these components?
ATI Radeon 5700
Gigabyte GA-MA74GM-S2
Athlon II X4 620
Is it possible to find a small-as-possible-case that can incorporate some or all of these components?
ATI Radeon 5700
Gigabyte GA-MA74GM-S2
Athlon II X4 620
The fan of my GPU has started to make a terrible grinding noise. Tried to clean it, even pulling it apart, but to no avail; I guess it has just expired its lifetime (they always die before the chips themselves).
I don't want to buy a new gpu since I don't game much these days, (and when I do it's always some old game). I don't want to change the whole cooling pack, because it seems quite a big hassle that involves spending money spending too (and my gpu is old: geforce gtx 560 vanilla; wouldn't make sense).
So my idea was to use one of these overclocking utilities to turn the fan off (or make it spin so slowly that the noise is bearable) and alongside downclock the gpu so the temperature stays safe.
I don't know anything about this.
Can it even be done?
Is MSI afterburner the tool of choice to do these things? Does it monitor temperatures too?
Are memory and gpu clock the ones involved in heat buildup, or there's something else that could catch fire once the fan is off?
Do I need to lower the voltages too, or the normal voltage will be fine (AKA no damage) even if the gpu is running slower?
Thanks.
I don't want to buy a new gpu since I don't game much these days, (and when I do it's always some old game). I don't want to change the whole cooling pack, because it seems quite a big hassle that involves spending money spending too (and my gpu is old: geforce gtx 560 vanilla; wouldn't make sense).
So my idea was to use one of these overclocking utilities to turn the fan off (or make it spin so slowly that the noise is bearable) and alongside downclock the gpu so the temperature stays safe.
I don't know anything about this.
Can it even be done?
Is MSI afterburner the tool of choice to do these things? Does it monitor temperatures too?
Are memory and gpu clock the ones involved in heat buildup, or there's something else that could catch fire once the fan is off?
Do I need to lower the voltages too, or the normal voltage will be fine (AKA no damage) even if the gpu is running slower?
Thanks.
Very few GPUs allow the fans to turn off entirely. Those that do usually already have it automatically enabled, like the latest GTX 970 models. Try MSI Afterburner to limit fan speed to an acceptable level. Unfortunately, I'm not knowledgeable about GPU undervolting. You'll have to go through some trial and error to find the right levels. I don't actually know if your GTX 560 Ti will run well that way.
If you find that undervolting isn't the answer (temperatures too high or performance too low), consider another alternative: if you're open to the idea of improvising, take off the old fan and use cable ties to strap a case fan (80mm, 92mm, or 120mm) to the heatsink. Ugly, but it'll work.
Fake edit: on eBay I see that replacement GPU cooler fans are available for less than $10, you could buy one and simply replace the faulty fan. Fan sizes and connectors are fairly standard.
Expect to get around 40FPS with that GPU.
No problem.
What other parts do you have? Stock CPU cooler? Do you already have a disc drive you want to keep using? Just one or two hard drives? Do you need the case to fit any specific dimensions? What's your budget?
Here's a list of slim compact cases, some come with a power supply to match their small size.
If you can tell me more, I can help you find a better fit. You could substitute similar sized PC parts tto find a compatible case in PCPartPicker, but I kinda need specifics.
trailmix16
Member
Thanks, I am sort of clueless about this. I don't have/want a disc drive. The cooler is stock. I need a new hard drive, and am ok with disc-based. The case doesn't need to fit any specifics, I mostly just want it really small so it doesn't take up space and i can watch movies and play low-spec games.
What I didn't list is 4 GB of ram, and a 150GB hard drive that can be replaced.
Thanks for the case link, I have a rosewill now with a build in power supply.
ChoklitCow
Member
Alright, I waited a day to curb impulse buying and still am going to upgrade. I am thinking the upper end of Haz's Enthusiast build. This rig is probably going to be used 80% of the time for gaming. Depending on if I get back in the competitive spirit, there may be some streaming and overlays as well. I like purchasing solid core components that are more than I need and then update GPUs and RAM as needed over the years. Did this with an i7 in 2008 and it last me comfortably until now. Just wanted to see if anyone had any additional ideas or changes:
http://pcpartpicker.com/b/Dq7hP6
CPU -Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler - Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard - Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SOC FORCE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory - Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage - Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Case - Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply - Cooler Master GXII 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Monitor - BenQ XL2411Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor
GPU - GTX 770 from current rig
DVD drive and 8-in-1 card drive from current rig
Few noob questions as well:
1) What additional supplies should I buy? Any thermal paste recommendations? Do I need any additional power chord or adapters that won't come with the PSU? Co-worker has the tools needed.
2) I currently own a BenQ Gaming Monitor RL2455HM (24-Inch LED) that I would move to a secondary. Since it it isn't 144hz does that mess with things on a single card setup? Will the new Benq be forced at 75hz or would they work independently?
3) RAM - What are the advantages of two large sticks vs a full board of smaller ones? 1600 ok or should I go higher?
4) Currently I'm cpu bottlenecked. With this build Im worried about my GPU. How bad is it that I'm wanting to keep my GTX 770 currently? I know with the 2gb v-ram there are going to be some high-texture games I can't max.
http://pcpartpicker.com/b/Dq7hP6
CPU -Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler - Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard - Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SOC FORCE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory - Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage - Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Case - Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply - Cooler Master GXII 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Monitor - BenQ XL2411Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor
GPU - GTX 770 from current rig
DVD drive and 8-in-1 card drive from current rig
Few noob questions as well:
1) What additional supplies should I buy? Any thermal paste recommendations? Do I need any additional power chord or adapters that won't come with the PSU? Co-worker has the tools needed.
2) I currently own a BenQ Gaming Monitor RL2455HM (24-Inch LED) that I would move to a secondary. Since it it isn't 144hz does that mess with things on a single card setup? Will the new Benq be forced at 75hz or would they work independently?
3) RAM - What are the advantages of two large sticks vs a full board of smaller ones? 1600 ok or should I go higher?
4) Currently I'm cpu bottlenecked. With this build Im worried about my GPU. How bad is it that I'm wanting to keep my GTX 770 currently? I know with the 2gb v-ram there are going to be some high-texture games I can't max.
Needlecrash
Member
Arctic Silver 5 is the best. Go with that.
I have the same setup right now (GTX 970 is arriving in the mail today). You won't really be bottle necked by the GTX 770 unless you're running at crazy high resolutions. You'll hit plenty games around 100+ fps, if you turn down a few settings. Just the heavy hitters will get the card down into the 30s. What games are you planning on playing?
Quick question - is everything in this combo all I need? http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1806345 I'll also be getting a DVD drive & artic silver (and of course already have peripherals + Windows).
Yes, but its awful.
You want to keep the GTX 770, but already acknowledge that its 2gb vram is going to hold you back pretty soon from really giving you the real potential of your rig. Therefore it makes no sense to SLI the 770 in the near future. It makes sense to buy something like the "GTX 1070 4GB" maybe in a year.
So that means you wont SLI in atleast a year. And then im betting you wont ever SLI, because the single GPU will do what you want for long enough until you are in the same situation again a few years later. My point is, have you considered building a rig that doesnt cater for SLI but spends money in higher quality parts? Or smaller form factor (mATX/mITX)?
For example go with a mATX board for $120, a quality 550-650W PSU for $80, a larger HDD (Toshiba 2TB), Corsair 350D or similar.
As for your questions, the thermal paste that comes with the Hyper 212 is fine, nothing is going to help the manufacturing issues under the CPU heatspreader. No you dont need any extra cables.
On the RAM, 2 sticks make it easier to overclock the CPU than 4 sticks. Less modules mean more expansion in the future.
Yep a fair few games are using more than 2GB Vram nowadays.
I think you misread his post, because he doesn't say he wants to SLI.
SweetJohnnyCage
Member
Heya GAF. I'm making the purchase of my 980 within the next couple of days, likely on the 26th. Microcenter has some pretty good prices on the 4790K and a MAXIMUS board, which I was considering picking up as well. I want to know, however, if I will need a new PSU in order to support a Haswell chip? Here's the PSU I have right now
Nah i meant his whole rig config is set out for SLI, there is no other reason to run a 750W PSU or go for an ATX case/board in this scenario, unless of course he likes running a large empty case.
I'm not sure where you are buying the parts and what product pricing and availability is like where you are, so here's lists of the best performing CPU coolers for thermal or noise performance, arranged by descending height.
Yeah, I can recommend some changes. Your budget is $1300 overall? I don't know much about monitors, so I'll keep the one you selected.
That Cooler Master GX II power supply is alright, but for the same price the EVGA Supernova G2 750 watt is a far better choice, gold rated and fully modular. Jonny Guru reviewed it meticulously and loved it.
The SOC Force motherboard is marketed for overclocking, but the $170 Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H is just as good for overclocking, it just doesn't have physical buttons just for adjusting overclocking settings which is more of an enthusiast feature. Most people never need to make such adjustments, they just find a stable overclock and let it be. In terms of what the SOC Force doesn't have, the UD5H features an M2 slot, second LAN adaptor, and extra hard drive controller for more storage support. You can see the differences here.
If you were interested in features like M2 slots, you could drop down to the Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H-BK ($130), Newegg has a promotion where the 4790K and the UD3H can be purchased together with a $43 discount, which would bring down the cost significantly. It's comparable to the other motherboards like the SOC Force and UD5H in terms of gaming performance and daily use, and not a downgrade by any means, other than slight differences and fewer VRM phases for overclocking. It's still an alright motherboard for overclocking (4.7GHz attainable), just not the absolute greatest for liquid nitrogen enthusiast setups.
That RAM is grossly overpriced for the speed. There's cheaper, smaller, and faster 16GB 2133MHz Patriot RAM for $40 less.
Here's my version of your build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($299.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H-BK ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($136.13 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Red 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($194.29 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.85 @ OutletPC)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: BenQ XL2411Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($248.98 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1214.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-19 12:36 EST-0500
Now, for your questions:
1. Typically, the thermal paste that comes with the heatsink is good enough for most people. If you want the absolute best, then according to Tom's Hardware, Coollaboratory Liquid Pro ($15) is what you want. It idled at 32 degrees whereas Cooler Master idled at 38.3 degrees. That's $15 for ~6 degrees difference, although actual temperatures will vary due to installation, cooler, etc. Up to you. If you wanted better higher end cooling, look into a Noctua air cooler like the NH-D14 or NH-D15 - excellent performance, and Noctua's included thermal paste (NT-H1, 36.1 degrees) is pretty decent.
2. I assume you mean you'll only be gaming on the 144Hz monitor and not on both at the same time, in which case you will be absolutely fine. It won't matter at all what the second monitor is doing if the game isn't on it.
3. How many slots you fill up makes absolutely no difference, other than how much room you have to add more RAM in the future. Few people need 16GB or more, but there's no reason to go with 4 x 2GB instead of 2 x 8GB. RAM speed makes a tiny difference in everyday use, but some games and applications do see a speed increase. For prices today, it's very easy to find fast RAM (1866/2133/2400MHz) on sale at the same price as 1600MHz, so there's not much point with going for 1600MHz.
If you wanted to save another $60 off the cost of those parts, you could drop down to 8GB (2 x 4GB) for now and add another 8GB (2 x 4GB) or 16GB (2 x 8GB) in the future
4. No, you'll be fine. Few games require a CPU stronger than the i7 4790K. Generally speaking, it's better to have a stronger CPU than a strong GPU, because you don't upgrade the CPU as often as you can do the GPU. There's nothing wrong with wanting to use the GTX 770 with this new PC. When the times comes, you can just slot in a new graphics card, it'll be easier than replacing the CPU.
SweetJohnnyCage
Member
Last post got quite long, wanted to make this separate so it wouldn't be missed. Oh well, question was already answered.
You'll be fine, that PSU is already Haswell compatible. It will support the new Haswell C6/C7 sleep states. Some decent power supplies made in the last five years have support for C6/C7 sleep modes, while any PSU made in the last eight years, even if it lacks C6/C7 support, will still power a Haswell computer. They haven't changed any of the plug designs in the last ten years or so.
You'll be fine, that PSU is already Haswell compatible. It will support the new Haswell C6/C7 sleep states. Some decent power supplies made in the last five years have support for C6/C7 sleep modes, while any PSU made in the last eight years, even if it lacks C6/C7 support, will still power a Haswell computer. They haven't changed any of the plug designs in the last ten years or so.
SweetJohnnyCage
Member
Thanks for the information. I remember when Haswell was coming out, the main advertising point was "better power management" or something like that. Figured I'd make sure before I start spending my Christmas bonus. Thanks again!
Broadbandito
Member
My neighbors have a Dell Dimension 5100 pc and are looking to get a new pc. I told them let me figure out a build instead of them shelling out for a prebuilt.
Either will be a huge performance increase for them. Is it worth going higher on the APU? Any changes yall would recommend?
Either will be a huge performance increase for them. Is it worth going higher on the APU? Any changes yall would recommend?
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
I bought the ASUS VS239H-P monitor from the OP. $140 after rebate is really awesome.
Only other thing I want is a fairly priced set of speakers. Anything out there that won't break the bank that doesn't sound like poo?
Only other thing I want is a fairly priced set of speakers. Anything out there that won't break the bank that doesn't sound like poo?
My neighbors have a Dell Dimension 5100 pc and are looking to get a new pc. I told them let me figure out a build instead of them shelling out for a prebuilt.
Either will be a huge performance increase for them. Is it worth going higher on the APU? Any changes yall would recommend?
If they're not going to play games I don't see the need for the APU. 4GB RAM a bit tight too.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i3-4150 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($99.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H81M-H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($42.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.85 @ OutletPC)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $324.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-19 13:59 EST-0500
Broadbandito
Member
I can up the ram to 8gb for $19. So that leaves me sitting at $320 on newegg. This build leaves me at $365.
I also noticed the AMD A8-7600 at $99 that is either 65w or 45w. It seems the AMD APUs are a better bang for the buck even if they are more towards gaming. Trying to maximize the $ for them and it seems to way to go.
How is http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1806345 that awful? Comparing it to the "Good - very capable" list in the OP (that goes around for the same price), it has the same video card, same size hard drive / SSD, 8 GB of RAM, and a 6 core CPU.
I'm only looking to get a decent gaming machine for around that price (as its actually a Christmas gift for my parents, not really looking to give them a $1,300+ christmas gift).
There's the Bitfenix Phenom for $60.
If you don't mind spending a bit more money, look at the Silverstone SG09 ($91) or SG10 ($110).
Cases with power supplies in the front are what you need, but are few and far between.
Broadbandito
Member
Ok now it's really down to i3 4130 (65w) vs a8-7600 (65w or 45w)
Is it really worth going intel? They may not be gamers but for an actual cheaper price wouldn't it make sense to go with the APU?
adamantypants
Member
Quick question GAF;
Is it generally a bad idea to SLI with an mATX board/case? I'm on the verge of downsizing my rig but I don't want to close the door on SLI.
Is it generally a bad idea to SLI with an mATX board/case? I'm on the verge of downsizing my rig but I don't want to close the door on SLI.
Dead socket, CPU is weak compared to a 4 core Intel CPU, even a dual core hypertheaded Intel CPU like an i3 can compete. No real upgrade path and when you want to put a high end GPU in maybe a year or so, the CPUs on offer wont cope.
Biostar notoriously bad quality these days.
This Corsair PSU, not really up to the brands reputation.
Seagate HDD, reported to have the highest failure rate, rather go Toshiba as these are Hitachis rebranded using a single 1TB platter for higher performance, and Hitachi have the lowest failure rate on average.
This is a tad over what you wanted, but its higher quality and has a proper upgrade path for the future, for example using a 4790k. Also i chose high quality parts, you can tone the case down, but its definatly worth investing once in a case, prevents having to do it again when you find the first case has lots of issues that annoy you later on. Its also smaller for factor, you only need ATX nowadays for multi GPU setups.
I also got a R9 270 2Gb in there, but you can swap for the 265 if its enough.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M Anniversary Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Team Xtreem Dark Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.97 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series
T01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ NCIX US) Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 270 2GB Core Edition Video Card ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 350D MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Essential 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($62.99 @ Directron)
Total: $701.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-19 14:39 EST-0500
My neighbors have a Dell Dimension 5100 pc and are looking to get a new pc. I told them let me figure out a build instead of them shelling out for a prebuilt.
Either will be a huge performance increase for them. Is it worth going higher on the APU? Any changes yall would recommend?
The difference between the A10-6800K and the A8-6600K are minimal at best so go with the cheaper A8 6600K. Will they be reusing their old hard drive? I wonder if they're SATA or IDE.
I got an APU build for about $262, with a few rebates here and there.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD A8-6600K 3.9GHz Quad-Core Processor ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus A78M-E Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($33.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($50.88 @ OutletPC)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $261.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-19 14:56 EST-0500
Single channel RAM won't really be an issue. Higher memory speed is more important - in the future they can drop another stick of 4GB 1866MHz and it'll work wonders. If they don't do a lot a lot besides web browsing, you could cheap out on the hard drive. There's this WD Caviar Blue 160GB hard drive for just $19. Or even go for this Kingston V300 60GB SSD for $44, it's low capacity but enough for Windows, a some useful programs like word processors and etc, and will be much faster than any hard drive and slightly cheaper than the 1TB hard drive.
TC McQueen
Member
I dunno, but reference/blower coolers become a bigger priority for GPUs, due to the lack of distance between the cards. If you want WiFi on your PC, you'll probably have to either buy a mobo with built in WiFi or try to find a good USB dongle.
trailmix16
Member
hey the the bitfenix looks perfect, thanks!
Should I ignore this warning: "BitFenix Phenom M Nvidia Edition: Black MicroATX Mini Tower Case has front panel USB 3.0 ports, but the Gigabyte GA-MA74GM-S2 Micro ATX AM3/AM2+/AM2 Motherboard does not have onboard USB 3.0 headers"
I agree with Liljoka's sentiments about AM3+ these days, but I think I can do him one better on the build. The budget is $600? I managed to save about $84 while coming up with a stronger CPU, faster RAM, and a stronger graphics card. I went for a cheaper case and dropped the SSD, it won't affect gaming performance, just load times. Airflow and cooling should be adequate, it just won't look quite as nice as the Corsair 350D on the outside.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($174.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M Anniversary Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Red 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($50.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($199.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $617.58
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-19 15:08 EST-0500
All it means is that the case has USB 3.0 ports on the front, but because your motherboard doesn't support them, those USB 3.0 ports won't work. If you don't care about being able to use the case's ports, then don't worry about it. If you do want to use them, you need to buy one of the following:
This card adds USB 3.0 support to your computer for USB 3.0 superspeed ($19)
This cable adaptor lets you use the case's USB 3.0 ports as normal USB 2.0 speed ports instead ($7 plus $2 shipping)
ChoklitCow
Member
Thanks to everyone with the advice. Sorry I didn't reply sooner but I'm on mobile in another state. Your tips will help a ton when I actually order. You are all awesome to take time out of your days to help with these questions. Hopefully as I become more knowledgeable I can pay it forward.
Most CPUs come with a cooler that is sufficient if you don't overclock. But if you have un unlocked processor, getting a better cooler can give you quite a bit of extra performance for very little extra cost.
thanks for the help
Yeah, this. But I'll just add that it can't hurt to get one. Third party ones will run a lot quieter than the stock Intel one, and will keep the CPU cooler (which can help depending on your exact setup). Plus, if you're getting an unlocked CPU, it's better to get one now anyway in case you want to overclock in the future (which you will).
So it's not required then? I wouldn't mind buying one since they're only like $20, but I'm really short on cash right now and need every extra bit I can get. Maybe when I get paid.
This is the CPU I ordered if it matters.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FA8NOQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
opticalmace
Member
I hope you didn't pay that price for it...
Two things...
1. That's an unlocked CPU, so if you can get the ~$30 together, you're looking at a 25-30% performance increase for free.
2. The 2600K is an older CPU, are you buying it for an older mobo? Because if you're building a new computer, you shouldn't get a 2600K.
I didn't. It was just the most convenient link I found for it.
1. Alright thanks. Will have to wait a week or so until I get paid. The CPU won't explode on me or anything in the mean time will it? lol
2. Yeah the mobo is compatible.
I think you mentioned you were getting it used. Are you getting it already mounted on the motherboard? Because if not, do you know that it comes with the stock cooler? Also if the processor and cooler aren't mounted, you will probably need thermal paste. The stock cooler comes with thermal paste pre-applied, but if it was used and then taken off you'll have to apply fresh paste.
Should be coming already mounted. What do you mean the stock cooler? The one that would be on already on the CPU when you buy it? You can remove that?
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