Quick question,
Whats the best Overclocking software.
Should be coming already mounted. What do you mean the stock cooler? The one that would be on already on the CPU when you buy it? You can remove that?
I have some Cougar CF-12SB4 fans that are practically silent when I'm sitting like two or three feet from my PC. My Cooler Master 200mm and 140mm fans are louder.Anyone got suggestion for jet black super silent fans? I wish the Noctua black versions didn't have brown...
When you buy the CPU new, it usually comes in a box with a stock cooler, like this:
![]()
You'd mount the CPU on the motherboard socket. The cooler then goes on top of that with the 4 feet going through holes in the motherboard. So yes, you can take that off, and you have to if you want to replace the motherboard or the cooler.
But if your processor and cooler are already mounted on the motherboard, you don't have to worry about that.
Anyone got suggestion for jet black super silent fans? I wish the Noctua black versions didn't have brown... two for sp and one for af.
Someone else can give you more specific advice, but I'd get a cheaper motherboard, a 970 instead of a 980, and definitely get an SSD.So I'm coming to the last stages of ordering and just want to see everyones opinion on the build I'm going for. I could do last minute changes
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII IMPACT Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($229.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($155.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: ASUS Graphics Cards STRIX-GTX980-DC2OC-4GD5 (569.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 (White) Mini ITX Tower Case ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($76.99 @ Newegg)
would it be possible to add SSD also or should i just increase my Hard drive to 3TB?
So I'm coming to the last stages of ordering and just want to see everyones opinion on the build I'm going for. I could do last minute changes
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII IMPACT Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($229.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($155.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: ASUS Graphics Cards STRIX-GTX980-DC2OC-4GD5 (569.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 (White) Mini ITX Tower Case ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($76.99 @ Newegg)
would it be possible to add SSD also or should i just increase my Hard drive to 3TB?
Hey guys, I'm not sure if it's kosher to ask this here, but I pulled the trigger on this XFX R7 250E (don't laugh) bc of a price error on Amazon (it was CDN$50).
http://xfxforce.com/en-us/products/amd-radeon-r7-series/amd-radeon-r7-250e-core-edition-r7-250e-znp4
It runs at 800MHz and has 512 stream processors and a 4500MHz memory clock.
Any ideas on what kind of performance I might get with an i5 4460? I'm still to put together my new system, but was curious/nervous about my purchase.
All I care about for now is playing Dragon Age: Origins and Skyrim, preferably at 1080p, but not married to the idea.
You can add whatever you like. What's your budget? You can definitely save over $100, maybe around $200. What is it for, compact gaming?
Barely adequate for 1080p gaming. Expect to play on low settings for better framerate. If you have a lower resolution screen like 1680x1050, 1600x900, etc, then it's ok. Techpowerup recommends only playing on high settings at 720p.
Barely adequate for 1080p gaming. Expect to play on low settings for better framerate. If you have a lower resolution screen like 1680x1050, 1600x900, etc, then it's ok. Techpowerup recommends only playing on high settings at 720p.
1500 is my budget
Would you like to spend $1500 or do you want to go for better price-to-performance?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97N-Gaming 5 Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($132.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Red 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($98.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($50.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($329.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1024.55
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-19 22:16 EST-0500
Going with alternative parts gives you 90% of the power of the build you had above but with about $500 savings, and there's a 256GB SSD included.
If you have $1500 to burn, how about going with mATX instead of mITX and SLI GTX 970 or something, that will be better value than a single GTX 980.
i could go with mATX but that would require me to change a few things up?
i could also do GTX 970 SLI
Id also love to have 16GB ram
Here's the new build. Went with SLI GTX 970, 16GB, 750 watt gold modular PSU and 3TB hard drive.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($114.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Red 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($98.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($99.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($329.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($329.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 350D MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1510.64
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-19 23:01 EST-0500
Now, I don't really want to change my case, the HAF 932, but I'm wondering what good CPU cooler I should get.
The V8 was already big, but after doing some research on what should go well with the new i7 4790k, I am lost...
Air:
Noctua D14/15 http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Noctua/NH-D15/
Phanteks PH-TC14PE http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Phanteks/PH-TC14PE/
Watercooling:
Corsaire Hydro (110 or 100i)
Coolermaster Seidon or Nepton
I think that the watercooling one with dual 120mm fans will not fit in my HAF 932 case, and the big Air Coolers are also going to be eating the slots for my ram...
I'm not sure where you are buying the parts and what product pricing and availability is like where you are, so here's lists of the best performing CPU coolers for thermal or noise performance, arranged by descending height.
I also wonder if a D14 would not go too close to the fan on the back of the case :/
Best 1080p monitors right now?
----
Best from this list and under $250 NZD?
http://www.pbtech.co.nz/index.php?z=c&p=monitors
Getting ready to make purchases tomorrow! Really excited. Looks like I can get most of my parts at comparible prices from Newegg or Amazon to save on shipping. Issue is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO cooler is out at both locations.
I see it is highly rated. Anything compatible for the price? If not, might just have to Micro Center it separately. Time is of the essence because of the holiday season and lack of work computer. Otherwise I'd just wait for stock.
Here's the 212 Plus on top, 212 Evo on the bottom.
![]()
Would it be safe to put my PC on top of a subwoofer? I rarely have the volume particularly loud.
I wouldn't recommend it, but especially not if you also have a HDD.
Ok Gaf, I've reached the part in my quest of upgrading my pc where its time to pick a case and a PSU. Currently running an i5 4690k and the plan is to get a nvidia gtx 970 at the end of next month or potentially an r9 290x depending on what the prices are like at that time.
For the case I've decided on the NZXT Phantom 530 because I like the look of it and I got experience in working with its predecessor in the past when I built a rig for my stepson.
With the PSU however I could do with some advice. I'm basically after something thats:
- Modular
- 750w
- has all the necessary cables for connecting the afore mentioned gfx cards
- is available in the UK and preferably from the overclockers.co.uk site as I've dealt with them in the past and had good experiences.
Budget for the PSU is around £100, the less the better ( because bills suck!) but can go slightly over if needed.
Finally, not planning on OC'ing but would like to keep the option open. No intentions on going SLI / Crossfire though.
Thanks!
Ok Gaf, I've reached the part in my quest of upgrading my pc where its time to pick a case and a PSU. Currently running an i5 4690k and the plan is to get a nvidia gtx 970 at the end of next month or potentially an r9 290x depending on what the prices are like at that time.
For the case I've decided on the NZXT Phantom 530 because I like the look of it and I got experience in working with its predecessor in the past when I built a rig for my stepson.
With the PSU however I could do with some advice. I'm basically after something thats:
- Modular
- 750w
- has all the necessary cables for connecting the afore mentioned gfx cards
- is available in the UK and preferably from the overclockers.co.uk site as I've dealt with them in the past and had good experiences.
Budget for the PSU is around £100, the less the better ( because bills suck!) but can go slightly over if needed.
Finally, not planning on OC'ing but would like to keep the option open. No intentions on going SLI / Crossfire though.
Thanks!
I don't know where you read that, but the measured power draw of the flagship R9 290X is only 300 watts at most. You'll be fine with a 550-600 watt power supply.Sorry forgot to add that i got the mobo, cpu and ram sorted. Currently using them in my old case with old components but my old case isnt big enough to house new gfx cards so im having to buy a case and psu first.
The only reason i want a 750w psu is that ive read its recommended to have a 750w for the amd cards and since im unsure which card i end up buying i thought i'd play it safe.
Sorry forgot to add that i got the mobo, cpu and ram sorted. Currently using them in my old case with old components but my old case isnt big enough to house new gfx cards so im having to buy a case and psu first.
The only reason i want a 750w psu is that ive read its recommended to have a 750w for the amd cards and since im unsure which card i end up buying i thought i'd play it safe.
If I get a new motherboard do I need to get a new copy of Windows?
If I get a new motherboard do I need to get a new copy of Windows?
If I get a new motherboard do I need to get a new copy of Windows?
Deactivate?If you have a oem version before then yes unless you call them.and make a fuss.
If you bought the consumer version on the ms store or retail version then no. But be sure to deactivate windows before installing the new motherboard. Trust me its just better to do so.
RAMMon v1.0 Build: 1014 built with SysInfo v1.0 Build: 1087
PassMark (R) Software
www.passmark.com
Memmory summary for FAMILY-PC:
Number of Memory Devices: 2 Total Physical Memory: 3961 MB (4096 MB)
Total Available Physical Memory: 1559 MB
Memory Load: 60%
Item | Slot #1 | Slot #2 | Slot #3 | Slot #4 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------|--------------------------------|--------------------------------|-----------------|-----------------|-
Ram Type | DDR3 | DDR3 | Not Populated | Not Populated |
Maximum Clock Speed (MHz) | 533 (JEDEC) | 533 (JEDEC) | | |
Maximum Transfer Speed (MHz) | DDR3-1066 | DDR3-1066 | | |
Maximum Bandwidth (MB/s) | PC3-8500 | PC3-8500 | | |
Memory Capacity (MB) | 2048 | 2048 | | |
Jedec Manufacture Name | Patriot Memory (PDP Systems) | Patriot Memory (PDP Systems) | | |
Search Amazon.com | Search! | Search! | | |
SPD Revision | 1.0 | 1.0 | | |
Registered | No | No | | |
ECC | No | No | | |
DIMM Slot # | 1 | 2 | | |
Manufactured | | | | |
Module Part # | 1600EL Series | 1600EL Series | | |
Module Revision | 0x0 | 0x0 | | |
Module Serial # | 0x0 | 0x0 | | |
Module Manufacturing Location | 1 | 1 | | |
# of Row Addressing Bits | 14 | 14 | | |
# of Column Addressing Bits | 10 | 10 | | |
# of Banks | 8 | 8 | | |
# of Ranks | 2 | 2 | | |
Device Width in Bits | 8 | 8 | | |
Bus Width in Bits | 64 | 64 | | |
Module Voltage | 1.5V | 1.5V | | |
CAS Latencies Supported | 6 7 | 6 7 | | |
Timings @ Max Frequency (JEDEC) | 7-7-7-20 | 7-7-7-20 | | |
Maximum frequency (MHz) | 533 | 533 | | |
Maximum Transfer Speed (MHz) | DDR3-1066 | DDR3-1066 | | |
Maximum Bandwidth (MB/s) | PC3-8500 | PC3-8500 | | |
Minimum Clock Cycle Time, tCK (ns) | 1.875 | 1.875 | | |
Minimum CAS Latency Time, tAA (ns) | 13.125 | 13.125 | | |
Minimum RAS to CAS Delay, tRCD (ns) | 13.125 | 13.125 | | |
Minimum Row Precharge Time, tRP (ns) | 13.125 | 13.125 | | |
Minimum Active to Precharge Time, tRAS (ns) | 37.500 | 37.500 | | |
Minimum Row Active to Row Active Delay, tRRD (ns) | 7.500 | 7.500 | | |
Minimum Auto-Refresh to Active/Auto-Refresh Time, tRC (ns) | 50.625 | 50.625 | | |
Minimum Auto-Refresh to Active/Auto-Refresh Command Period, tRFC (ns) | 110.000 | 110.000 | | |
| | | | |
DDR3 Specific SPD Attributes | | | | |
Write Recovery Time, tWR (ns) | 15.000 | 15.000 | | |
Internal Write to Read Command Delay, tWTR (ns) | 7.500 | 7.500 | | |
Internal Read to Precharge Command Delay, tRTP (ns) | 7.500 | 7.500 | | |
Minimum Four Activate Window Delay, tFAW (ns) | 37.500 | 37.500 | | |
RZQ / 6 Supported | No | No | | |
RZQ / 7 Supported | Yes | Yes | | |
DLL-Off Mode Supported | Yes | Yes | | |
Maximum Operating Temperature Range (C) | 0-95 | 0-95 | | |
Refresh Rate at Extended Operating Temperature Range | 2X | 2X | | |
Auto-self Refresh Supported | Yes | Yes | | |
On-die Thermal Sensor Readout Supported | No | No | | |
Partial Array Self Refresh Supported | No | No | | |
Thermal Sensor Present | No | No | | |
Non-standard SDRAM Type | Standard Monolithic | Standard Monolithic | | |
Module Type | UDIMM | UDIMM | | |
Module Height (mm) | 30 | 30 | | |
Module Thickness (front), (mm) | 2 | 2 | | |
Module Thickness (back), (mm) | 2 | 2 | | |
Module Width (mm) | 133.5 | 133.5 | | |
Reference Raw Card Used | Raw Card B Rev. 0 | Raw Card B Rev. 0 | | |
DRAM Manufacture | | | | |
Because my computery sometimes starts up then shuts down, starts up again shows UEFI bios (nothing there) shuts down, starts up again and boots windows.
So I think I need a new MB
A cpu test and memtest show no errors
Deactivate?
Is anyone selling some DDR4, 970/980's,or a 5960x?
Have a near new 4gb 770 and sealed Wasteland 2 to barter with as well in case someone wants to trade.
For a 290X 650w would be fine, for an Nvidia card like a 970 or a 980 I'd go for a good 550w.
Still, the G2 is one of the best units on the market and is extremely hard to beat. Whilst the power output is overkill the warranty is killer, the quality is fantastic and it will offer the chance to SLI (not Crossfire) if you ever wanted to.
which is a 750W PSU and when I was looking at some of the 290X's on the OCUK website they also recommended a 750W PSU ( think the actual wording was "750W PSU required" ) but in all honesty I wouldn't know and I'll take the word of you guys. Been off the game far too long and haven't kept up with all the changes in tech."Bump PSU to V750 if going R9 290"