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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Hey GAF, quick question about some RAM. I built this machine about 4-5 years ago, and it's since been given to my brother, and parts replaced (due to it being on it's last legs).

Looking to upgrade the RAM, but I'm having trouble working out what kind it is (short of taking a stick out and punching in the serial number). PCPartPicker (and other sites) suggest it's 1.6v - it's Patriot, silver with heatspreaders. However, RAMMon gives me this (sorry for this chunk of text):

Code:
RAMMon v1.0 Build: 1014 built with SysInfo v1.0 Build: 1087
PassMark (R) Software
www.passmark.com

Memmory summary for FAMILY-PC:
Number of Memory Devices: 2	Total Physical Memory: 3961 MB (4096 MB)
				Total Available Physical Memory: 1559 MB
				Memory Load: 60%	I'm looking to upgrade it to 8GB, but I'd rather buy 2x 2GB to add to it, vs 2x 8GB.  It's currently using a stock cooler, so there's space.  

This suggests that it's 1.5v (and my BIOS says similar, to 3 decimal places).  Could I pick up any 2x 2GB sticks, with the same voltage, and it'll be fine?  Again, sites suggest it's DDR-1600, but this is telling me 1066.  Could I mix-and-match with [URL="http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002TISFCG/"]these[/URL]?[/QUOTE]
Yeah you'll be fine. Those chips are probably a bit older (hence 1.6V) and them only having built in info for 1066. Go ahead and add the Corsair and you can run both sets at 1.60V / 1333Mhz
 

RGM79

Member
I have a Windows 7 install flash drive.

Can I put Windows WIndows 8.1 on it as well? Or do I need a different flash drive?

You can put multiple OS installers on a single flash drive if you have the room. You usually need to use some kind of USB menu system for it, though. I used RMPrepUSB and Easy2Boot, but there are other tools out there.

http://www.easy2boot.com/make-an-easy2boot-usb-drive/
http://www.easy2boot.com/make-an-easy2boot-usb-drive/make-and-e2b-usb-drive-using-rmprepusb/
http://www.pendrivelinux.com/xboot-multiboot-iso-usb-creator/
http://multibootusb.org/

Hey GAF, quick question about some RAM. I built this machine about 4-5 years ago, and it's since been given to my brother, and parts replaced (due to it being on it's last legs).

Looking to upgrade the RAM, but I'm having trouble working out what kind it is (short of taking a stick out and punching in the serial number). PCPartPicker (and other sites) suggest it's 1.6v - it's Patriot, silver with heatspreaders. However, RAMMon gives me this (sorry for this chunk of text):

I'm looking to upgrade it to 8GB, but I'd rather buy 2x 2GB to add to it, vs 2x 8GB. It's currently using a stock cooler, so there's space.

This suggests that it's 1.5v (and my BIOS says similar, to 3 decimal places). Could I pick up any 2x 2GB sticks, with the same voltage, and it'll be fine? Again, sites suggest it's DDR-1600, but this is telling me 1066. Could I mix-and-match with these?

Might be that it's 1600MHz but is forced to run at 1066MHz for whatever reason. I don't use RAMMon, and I don't see anything from that text log that tells me exactly what RAM model it is other than "1600EL Series" which is somewhat vague and takes me to a product page for something that isn't silver. Can you run CPU-Z for me and send me a screenshot of the SPD tab?

http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html

Hazaro is right, technically any DDR3 RAM is compatible and putting it in your system just means that all the RAM defaults to running at the lowest compatible speed, which is probably 1.5 or 1.6 volts and 1066MHz or 1333MHz.

I was looking at the Haz's excellent build which said which is a 750W PSU and when I was looking at some of the 290X's on the OCUK website they also recommended a 750W PSU ( think the actual wording was "750W PSU required" ) but in all honesty I wouldn't know and I'll take the word of you guys. Been off the game far too long and haven't kept up with all the changes in tech.

Anywho, thanks a million for all the advice, I've decided to go with the EVGA Supernova as it seems to offer a lot of the stuff I'm after for a good price. Time to hit that "Order" button and hope my stuff gets here before X-mas so I can build during my days off.

You're buying an excellent power supply, the extra wattage and warranty means you can reuse it in a bigger system down the line.

But yeah, on the page with the hardware recommendations, for all three parts lists ($1215, $1450, $2790) it does say to go with 750 watts but that's because it's assumed you want the option to crossfire or SLI later. Two rows below where it says to go with 750 watts for the R9 290, it says "a good 750W for above that, or any high end dual card setup".
 

element

Member
Humor me here.

5930k or 4790k?

Either build I would have to buy a new mobo. With 5930k, I'd have to buy RAM as well. Would it be worth it?
 

RGM79

Member
Humor me here.

5930k or 4790k?

Either build I would have to buy a new mobo. With 5930k, I'd have to buy RAM as well. Would it be worth it?

I'd say that depends on your overall budget and what you plan to do with the computer. The price point at which X99 is preferred over Z97 would be above $1500, closer to $2000 I think.
 

The Llama

Member
Plus, due to the lower clock speeds, a 4790k at stock will beat a stock 5930k in almost all games anyway. You really have to be willing to overclock the 5930k, and they won't end up higher than a 4790k will overclock to anyway.
 

Addnan

Member
Humor me here.

5930k or 4790k?

Either build I would have to buy a new mobo. With 5930k, I'd have to buy RAM as well. Would it be worth it?

Well 5930K is not worth it unless you need 40 PCIE lanes. 5820K is the better option, but obviously will need to buy expensive DDR4. Do you need 6C/12T for anything? If not then a decent Z97 board is cheaper as is DDR3.
 

element

Member
Getting huge discount on either, so price is actually making it difficult choice. I can get a 5930k less than 4790k at retail.

My desktop has really just turned into a machine for video editing/after effects and sometimes the random game.
 

kennah

Member
Getting huge discount on either, so price is actually making it difficult choice. I can get a 5930k less than 4790k at retail.

My desktop has really just turned into a machine for video editing/after effects and sometimes the random game.
Do it. Totally worth it in the long run
 

sk3tch

Member
Getting huge discount on either, so price is actually making it difficult choice. I can get a 5930k less than 4790k at retail.

My desktop has really just turned into a machine for video editing/after effects and sometimes the random game.

Definitely worth it if money is not a factor. X99 is nice. Nice...not great. My 5930K is actually slower than my 4930K because it won't clock as high (4.2 GHz so far, versus 4.5 GHz) - even with the new architecture, trusty old X79 is better. Heh.

I have a 4770K and it's nice...but just doesn't compare to the X79/X99 6C procs. Can you get a 5960X? Maybe I can buy it off of you and get you a profit (and trade you my 5930K). :)
 
Just finished putting together my new PC, but now it is on an infinite restart loop. Not sure where to go from here.

It flashes on, the disc drive and processor heatsink rev up.... then off.
 

Gruso

Member
Just finished putting together my new PC, but now it is on an infinite restart loop. Not sure where to go from here.

It flashes on, the disc drive and processor heatsink rev up.... then off.
I would step through a basic process of elimination. Disconnect everything you can from the mobo (RAM, GPU, hard drives, etc). Plug a monitor into the onboard video output, plug in one stick of RAM, and attempt to boot. No luck? Power off, swap RAM to other slot, try again. Then repeat the process with the other stick, again by itself.

Once you've eliminated RAM as the issue, keep the process going, adding one more component with each restart until you identify the problem child.
 
Do any LEDs on the motherboard light up? What's your build?

Ok. Plugged in a connector I had loose, now it starts, but no video and it does still restart after a while.

[PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/TtQ6P6) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/TtQ6P6/by_merchant/)

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i54690k) | $219.98 @ OutletPC
**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gaz97xud3h) | $140.00 @ Amazon
**Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f310666cl7d8gbrh) | $74.98 @ Newegg
**Video Card** | [Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB DirectCU II Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-video-card-gtx760dc2oc2gd5) | $169.50 @ Newegg
**Power Supply** | [Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/antec-power-supply-bp550plus) | $64.98 @ OutletPC
| | **Total**
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $669.44
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-20 18:17 EST-0500 |

I would step through a basic process of elimination. Disconnect everything you can from the mobo (RAM, GPU, hard drives, etc). Plug a monitor into the onboard video output, plug in one stick of RAM, and attempt to boot. No luck? Power off, swap RAM to other slot, try again. Then repeat the process with the other stick, again by itself.

Once you've eliminated RAM as the issue, keep the process going, adding one more component with each restart until you identify the problem child.


Will start trying this
 

Buburibon

Member
Just finished putting together my new PC, but now it is on an infinite restart loop. Not sure where to go from here.

It flashes on, the disc drive and processor heatsink rev up.... then off.

My week-old X99 build behaved just the same until I reconnected all of the front I/O leads. I hope you find a solution soon.
 

Gruso

Member
Yep, could be as simple as something not seated properly. The old "pulling it apart and putting it back together fixed it" fix.
 

Croatoan

They/Them A-10 Warthog
Should I plug cup power into atx 12v(4 pin) or atx 2x4 (8 pin).

My pay has 2 4 pin connectors so I can only do one or the other.
 

DrForester

Kills Photobucket
So, going for a quiet build, and I am wondering if anyone knows of a good noise comparisons of the 970 cards.

Also, is there a preferred card if you're thinking of doing an SLI build?
 
Posting to ask a question that doesn't appear to be in the OP.
Sorry I'm a mac/ps4 guy and I'm helping a mate help his son build a PC for christmas.

The hardware part is easy however windows 7 blew out the budget, list price in australia was $119. So I suggested (from memory) that he get a key from Reddit.

Now I look at Reddit and it seems there is some controversy about the origin of these keys. People abusing programs to get them and resell them for a profit. Of course. However there are still active sellers. So far so good.

I think Windows 8.1 64 bit is what to get, right, and he can pickup a key for $15 from a reddit user. Now at this point it gets murky.

The page
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows-8/upgrade-product-key-only

apparently lets you obtain usable ISOs after entering a valid key. I'm not sure if this works for the keys that got sold on Reddit though.

Another option is torrents and checking checksums, although the myriad versions seem to make that whole thing a headache. Where are the official ISO checksums for all the versions of windows 8.1? or 8?

Another option is buying dvd+key on ebay. Well now we're back to $129 for 8.1 x64:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Microsof...1237642003?pt=AU_software&hash=item4acb416b13

So was I wrong in telling him not to worry, the license cost of windows is circa $20, not $120 ?
 

Gruso

Member
Yes there is some rabble around the keys from some people, but they are legally generated. It is normal to be directed to MS or a third party site for the ISO download. Just follow the directions of the seller - they should tell you exactly where to source the ISO. And of course check that the seller has a good reputation in the subreddit (often the seller is one of the mods). I've had a couple of keys not work, and they've always helped me out with a new one. But I would err on the side of caution and not get too deep into the discussion on GAF, especially when it comes to "alternate" ISO sources!

Go forth and get 8.1 x64.

Heads up: The MS page you linked appears to be for upgrading from an existing Win7 install only. It sounds like you need a full version, not an upgrade.
 
yeah I didn't see that upgrade only part of the page.

So the seller (should) help with the rest of the "procedure" too, ok cool.

I feel dirty now. Going to take a shower.
 

XBP

Member
So I'm overclocking my CPU right now. I have a 5820k and a corsair 105 cooler. Aiming for 4.2@ 1.2 volts.

How long should i run AIDA64 to ensure system stability? I've seen people use it for 24 hours but that seems a bit excessive? Would 3-4 hours be fine?
 

RGM79

Member
So, going for a quiet build, and I am wondering if anyone knows of a good noise comparisons of the 970 cards.

Also, is there a preferred card if you're thinking of doing an SLI build?

Asus Strix, MSI Gaming 4G and the EVGA GTX 970 FTW models all feature idle fans at temperatures below 60 degrees, I believe. Some other models may also have the feature.

Most of the GTX 970 models available are fairly quiet. As far as I know, I've never heard of a noisy one. Even the Gigabyte Windforce cooler on their GTX 970 apparently never gets louder than 40 decibels at load.

Should I plug cup power into atx 12v(4 pin) or atx 2x4 (8 pin).

My pay has 2 4 pin connectors so I can only do one or the other.
I don't quite understand. What power supply and motherboard do you have?

Your motherboard should have either a 4 pin or 8 pin connector near the CPU, and your power supply should have a matching CPU power cable connector. Simply plug it in.

If the motherboard only has a 4 pin CPU power connector and the PSU has an 8 pin power cable , you only need to connect half of the power cable's connector, it will fit. If your motherboard has an 8 pin CPU power connector and your power supply has a 4 pin power cable, you can still plug it in.

b0IPDnX.png
 
UPDATE

So. Right now the PC turns on, but I get nothing when I plug in monitor.

Also.... I get no beep when I have no RAM installed. Not sure if that is important.


UPDATE 2

I have VIDEO! :D

I also have blue screen of death about 3 seconds into windows starting to load :(
 

Gruso

Member
Check your mobo manual for interpreting beeps. You will get different beeps depending on status of RAM, among other things.

So you have the monitor plugged directly into the mobo now (not via video card)? Any signs of life on the monitor at all - for example, seeing it come out of standby when the computer powers up?

Remember to factor all the stupid little things into your fault finding. Is monitor powered up, is the correct input selected, is the cable any good, etc.
 
Check your mobo manual for interpreting beeps. You will get different beeps depending on status of RAM, among other things.

So you have the monitor plugged directly into the mobo now (not via video card)? Any signs of life on the monitor at all - for example, seeing it come out of standby when the computer powers up?

Remember to factor all the stupid little things into your fault finding. Is monitor powered up, is the correct input selected, is the cable any good, etc.

I am getting no sounds of any kind from my mobo.
 

Croatoan

They/Them A-10 Warthog
Asus Strix, MSI Gaming 4G and the EVGA GTX 970 FTW models all feature idle fans at temperatures below 60 degrees, I believe. Some other models may also have the feature.

Most of the GTX 970 models available are fairly quiet. As far as I know, I've never heard of a noisy one. Even the Gigabyte Windforce cooler on their GTX 970 apparently never gets louder than 40 decibels at load.


I don't quite understand. What power supply and motherboard do you have?

Your motherboard should have either a 4 pin or 8 pin connector near the CPU, and your power supply should have a matching CPU power cable connector. Simply plug it in.

If the motherboard only has a 4 pin CPU power connector and the PSU has an 8 pin power cable , you only need to connect half of the power cable's connector, it will fit. If your motherboard has an 8 pin CPU power connector and your power supply has a 4 pin power cable, you can still plug it in.

b0IPDnX.png
My mobo has both a 4 pin and 8 pin cpu power connector. My power supply has 2 4 pin connectors.

On mobile right now so I can't give you the exact models.
 

element

Member
Definitely worth it if money is not a factor. X99 is nice. Nice...not great. My 5930K is actually slower than my 4930K because it won't clock as high (4.2 GHz so far, versus 4.5 GHz) - even with the new architecture, trusty old X79 is better. Heh.

I have a 4770K and it's nice...but just doesn't compare to the X79/X99 6C procs. Can you get a 5960X? Maybe I can buy it off of you and get you a profit (and trade you my 5930K). :)
only options are 4790k and 5930k. since my desktop is mostly used at this point for premiere/after effects work i'm seriously thinking of the 5930k.

Another stupid question, do you have to have 4 sticks of ram for x99/5930k?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Go 5930K. CPUs are going nowhere fast so it'll be a solid investment.
UPDATE

So. Right now the PC turns on, but I get nothing when I plug in monitor.

Also.... I get no beep when I have no RAM installed. Not sure if that is important.


UPDATE 2

I have VIDEO! :D

I also have blue screen of death about 3 seconds into windows starting to load :(
Make sure all your connections are secure (unplug, replug).

Most likely culprit is your heatsink not being mounted correctly.
 

knitoe

Member
only options are 4790k and 5930k. since my desktop is mostly used at this point for premiere/after effects work i'm seriously thinking of the 5930k.

Another stupid question, do you have to have 4 sticks of ram for x99/5930k?

No, but if you want the max memory bandwidth, you want to run with multiple of 4 ram sticks. So, yeah, I highly recommend running at least 4 sticks.
 
Make sure all your connections are secure (unplug, replug).

Most likely culprit is your heatsink not being mounted correctly.

I have victory!

Posting from my PC.



Though I find it very likely that my heatsink could be installed incorrectly. I found the instructions that came with it extremely lacking. It was essentially "slap this on and go".
 

knitoe

Member
I have victory!

Posting from my PC.



Though I find it very likely that my heatsink could be installed incorrectly. I found the instructions that came with it extremely lacking. It was essentially "slap this on and go".

Run a stress test in the OP and see what your temps are. If it's install incorrectly, you will see your temps way to high.
 

element

Member
Now time to make a decision.

5930k Build:
CPU: Intel Core i7-5930K 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock X99 Extreme4 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Case: NZXT Source 220 ATX Mid Tower Case

4790k Build:
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Red 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory
Case: NZXT Source 220 ATX Mid Tower Case

I'd move my Intel 480GB SSD, 670 GTX, Bluray drive over to the new machine.

5930k build would be around $650, while the 4790k build would be around $450. Is the $200 difference worth it? You really can't future proof yourself on either build since anything new from Intel would be a difference socket type.

I'm currently running a OC'ed 2500k, but it has started having issues which is why I'm looking to upgrade (and got access to this deal).
 
Run a stress test in the OP and see what your temps are. If it's install incorrectly, you will see your temps way to high.

Will do.

I am going to wait until after I can get some heatsink paste stuff. Didn't realize that I needed it until I read my mobo installation guide.



Other than that the process seems really simple. Not sure what I could have messed up.
 
Now time to make a decision.

5930k Build:
CPU: Intel Core i7-5930K 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock X99 Extreme4 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Case: NZXT Source 220 ATX Mid Tower Case
Go with the 5930k, since it seems like it'll fit help you more with your video editing and it gets you more value out of whatever deal you've got going. Also, you probably won't have to worry about required CPUs for gaming for a long time.
 
Will do.

I am going to wait until after I can get some heatsink paste stuff. Didn't realize that I needed it until I read my mobo installation guide.



Other than that the process seems really simple. Not sure what I could have messed up.

There's no thermal paste on your CPU right now?
 

element

Member
Go with the 5930k, since it seems like it'll fit help you more with your video editing and it gets you more value out of whatever deal you've got going. Also, you probably won't have to worry about required CPUs for gaming for a long time.
Pull the trigger and went with 5930k. Now I have to wait a couple weeks for it and I'll order the rest of the hardware when it arrives. Maybe something will drop in price by then.
 

XBP

Member
So I'm overclocking my CPU right now. I have a 5820k and a corsair 105 cooler. Aiming for 4.2@ 1.2 volts.

How long should i run AIDA64 to ensure system stability? I've seen people use it for 24 hours but that seems a bit excessive? Would 3-4 hours be fine?

So AIDA64 has been running for 4 hours now and the system seems to be stable. Should I keep running it until something happens?
 

RGM79

Member
So AIDA64 has been running for 4 hours now and the system seems to be stable. Should I keep running it until something happens?

Well, the point of stress testing is to see if the system works well under pressure. Some say you should run it for a day, half a day, others say a few hours. If you see any errors, then it's time to tinker with settings again.

I'd say you're fine to go, if you haven't seen any issues or errors pop up at all.
 

XBP

Member
Well, the point of stress testing is to see if the system works well under pressure. Some say you should run it for a day, half a day, others say a few hours. If you see any errors, then it's time to tinker with settings again.

I'd say you're fine to go, if you haven't seen any issues or errors pop up at all.

No errors yet, no lock downs or anything not normal. Its at 4:40 right now. I'll run it until 5 hours and then stop the test. Some BF4 after this should test the stability in real world usage I think.
 

hitgirl

Member
Now time to make a decision.

5930k Build:
CPU: Intel Core i7-5930K 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock X99 Extreme4 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Case: NZXT Source 220 ATX Mid Tower Case

4790k Build:
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Red 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory
Case: NZXT Source 220 ATX Mid Tower Case

I'd move my Intel 480GB SSD, 670 GTX, Bluray drive over to the new machine.

5930k build would be around $650, while the 4790k build would be around $450. Is the $200 difference worth it? You really can't future proof yourself on either build since anything new from Intel would be a difference socket type.

I'm currently running a OC'ed 2500k, but it has started having issues which is why I'm looking to upgrade (and got access to this deal).

Ah, I got the same deal. I got both the 5930k and 4790k. I think i'll use the 4790k since all I do is game on my PC and I don't want to pay the premium for a 99 motherboard and DDR4 right now. Will wait until skylake. Sounds too me like the 5930k will be best for your situation though with aftereffects.
 
New issue. I can't seem to install my GPU drivers.

Every time I try it asks me to restart my PC, and when I do it goes to a black screen and never reaches the login screen.


I assume this means I did something wrong while installing the GPU?
 

element

Member
Ah, I got the same deal. I got both the 5930k and 4790k. I think i'll use the 4790k since all I do is game on my PC and I don't want to pay the premium for a 99 motherboard and DDR4 right now. Will wait until skylake. Sounds too me like the 5930k will be best for your situation though with aftereffects.
How did you get both? I've been holding off until Skylake as well, but this was too good of a deal to pass up and Skylake sounds like fall 2015 at this point.
 

RGM79

Member
New issue. I can't seem to install my GPU drivers.

Every time I try it asks me to restart my PC, and when I do it goes to a black screen and never reaches the login screen.


I assume this means I did something wrong while installing the GPU?

So Windows is loading but never finishes?
 
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