Like I said, I was mainly just wondering if this even sounded like it might plausibly be the issue. I'm not expecting anyone here to be able to definitively troubleshoot this for me. Just a "yeah, a lockup like that is common with an insufficiently powered GPU." Or on the flipside, something like "that's probably not your issue. Despite nVidia's recommendation of a 600W PSU, 500W should power it just fine. And even if it didn't, that's not the kind of crashes you'd get."
Power issues wouldn't be my first suspect if only the graphics card/game is locking up. You absolutely sure the drivers from the old card got cleaned? Is it running hotter in the new machine? Does this have problems in other games too?
If it still looks like it might be power, a possible easier way to test is just unplug anything you possibly can (spare hard drives, etc).
I guess I could. I don't have an extra one sitting around. I guess I could swap out the power supply from my main PC, but as lazy as this sounds I really don't feel like taking that out to test just to have to put everything back in. I'll just order a new one and if it doesn't work I'll send it back. Like I said, I was mainly just wondering if this even sounded like it might plausibly be the issue. I'm not expecting anyone here to be able to definitively troubleshoot this for me. Just a "yeah, a lockup like that is common with an insufficiently powered GPU." Or on the flipside, something like "that's probably not your issue. Despite nVidia's recommendation of a 600W PSU, 500W should power it just fine. And even if it didn't, that's not the kind of crashes you'd get."
PSU issues don't manifest with the kind of symptoms you've presented. Witcher 3 is crashing randomly for a lot of people -- including myself -- so I'd suggest a driver rollback or somesuch and see if that helps.
I'm personally using the nVIDIA GTAV release drivers and not the Witcher 3 optimized ones. The newer drivers crashed every 5 minutes without fail whereas it's completely random with the older ones.
Power issues wouldn't be my first suspect if only the graphics card/game is locking up. You absolutely sure the drivers from the old card got cleaned? Is it running hotter in the new machine? Does this have problems in other games too?
If it still looks like it might be power, a possible easier way to test is just unplug anything you possibly can (spare hard drives, etc).
I'll check the drivers. I've never had an issue just switching out cards before, but you never know. I switched from nVidia to nVidia, so I didn't think it would be an issue, but I'm not the most competent hardware guy around. I'm on the latest nVidia drivers right now. I'll check.
I have a new PSU on the way that I'll ship back if I solve the problem before then. Could different types of RAM be an issue? What I originally had:
G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-8500CL5D-4GBPK
Prior to the RAM upgrade and swapping out the 560 Ti for the 770, it played games without issue. Mind you, I haven't used it much in the past 18 months since building a new machine. Trying to play Witcher 3 in the bedroom is the first use I've given it aside from streaming video and using it to remote into my work PC to do work.
I'm personally using the nVIDIA GTAV release drivers and not the Witcher 3 optimized ones. The newer drivers crashed every 5 minutes without fail whereas it's completely random with the older ones.
Maybe I'll try that. I guess it could be an issue with the hardware config and the drivers. I don't know. I'd just kind of written off needing to rollback the drivers because everything has been so stable on my primary machine. It crashed a few times the first couple of days, but since version 1.03 and making some tweaks, I've had zero crashes. And between me playing it and my wife playing Gwent, a lot of time (by our standards) has been logged in the game.
Anyone have experience with this product?(Gigabyte WiFi and Bluetooth PCI card) I'm tired of using USB slots for these features, and am thinking of purchasing this for compactness and the antenna's better performance.
X99 is the enthusiast platform. Ever since the move to the tick-tock release format, it's been basically pointless to compare the consumer platform to the enthusiast platform in terms of pricing for either of them. It's meant to support 42 PCI-E lanes, quad channel memory, and a host of other features that aren't on consumer socker processors.
Additionally, it's not really beneficial to consider the Core Duo products, since they, again, were not a part of the tick-tock format. As a result, the processor that you're talking about would now be more in line with what we have as the enthusiast platform today.
So, the history that we do have which is fairly accurate, is to look at all of the Core series consumer processors. That would be the 1156 socket and P55 motherboards. This was then replaced by the 1155 socket and P67/Z68 motherboards. That was refined with the Z77 motherboards and IvyBridge. That was then replaced by the Z87/Z97 motherboards, socket 1150 Haswell processors.
Those are literally the only releases that matter in any fashion when trying to determine what Skyline consumer socket stuff is going to be priced at.
*edit*
It's pretty clear to me that you don't understand that Intel has three separate divisions of processors that serve entirely different needs. There's the consumer socket stuff (Haswell/1150/Z97), Enthusiast socket stuff (Haswell-E/2011v3/X99) and then Server stuff (Haswell-EP/Xeon 2011v3/C612). They don't really have any bearing on each other.
That's the way that it has been since the first series of core processors through a total of 4 gens with the Tick-Tock release structure, and it's what they are planning to continue to do for the forseeable future.
So, Skylake will be about the same price as the current stuff, except DDR4 is a bit pricier than DDR3. There's really no debate on this.
*edit #2 to help bring a bit more clarity*
P55->P67/Z68->Z77->Z87/97
X58->X79 (no second release for IvyBridge E) ->X99
Those are two totally different product ranges each with their own successors and replacements.
Yeah, I clearly don't understand they have multiple ranges, yet I somehow knew all the chipset codes and the launch price of a nearly 10 year old processor. Cool on you for being a snarky asshole about it though.
What do you think is going to happen to Devil's Canyon prices when Skylake launches? Nothing? According to you, the prices will be identical, so the retailers must just hope they get enough suckers to buy Devil's Canyon for the same price as Skylake just to play along with Intel's cannibalization strategy? You can buy a 4770k right now for $240, but a 4790k will cost closer to $300.
There is going to be a price premium for a Skylake system, and it's going to come from the motherboard, the memory, and the price difference between it and Devil's Canyon parts whether the MSRP is identical or not.
Anyone have experience with this product?(Gigabyte WiFi and Bluetooth PCI card) I'm tired of using USB slots for these features, and am thinking of purchasing this for compactness and the antenna's better performance.
That was my original choice for my machine because I've heard good things about it. However, an external antenna is of marginal difference unless you're in a room with poor WiFi reception.
Yeah, I clearly don't understand they have multiple ranges, yet I somehow knew all the chipset codes and the launch price of a nearly 10 year old processor. Cool on you for being a snarky asshole about it though.
What do you think is going to happen to Devil's Canyon prices when Skylake launches? Nothing? According to you, the prices will be identical, so the retailers must just hope they get enough suckers to buy Devil's Canyon for the same price as Skylake just to play along with Intel's cannibalization strategy? You can buy a 4770k right now for $240, but a 4790k will cost closer to $300.
There is going to be a price premium for a Skylake system, and it's going to come from the motherboard, the memory, and the price difference between it and Devil's Canyon parts whether the MSRP is identical or not.
Well, considering that's exactly what happened with Lynnfield, Sandy, Ivy, and non-DC Haswell, yes.
What happens is that Intel cuts supply well beforehand, and then as the new product launches, retailers slowly reduce their own prices on the product. Intel's MSRP doesn't change. As far as Intel is concerned, Haswell (consumer) is a dead product once Skylake (consumer) launches. They're competing with themsleves a tiny bit, as this very thread often suggests sticking with the previous platform unless there's some major benefit to be had.
However, this time around, we get DDR4. So, there really is no competition. It's most certainly not competing with X99 and Haswell-E, as the consumer socket proc is only at 16 PCI-E lanes with dual channel memory as well as topping out at 4C/8T, compared to Haswell-E with 48 PCI-E lanes, quad channel memory, and procs with 6C/12T for starters and topping out at 8C/16T.
*edit*
I mean, motherboards and processors on the consumer socket have been in the $100+ range on the Z series mobos, and $330 for the top i7 product every launch. Maybe $5-10 differences here and there, but it's stayed that way ever since they switched to the Tick-Tock release. There's nothing to indicate that situation is going to change.
If you run fans at 1200-1400RPM, the differences in noise created at similar RPM is almost negligible. The only difference is the sound characteristic. But even then, most should be at or lower than ambient noise in a room.
That was my original choice for my machine because I've heard good things about it. However, an external antenna is of marginal difference unless you're in a room with poor WiFi reception.
My computer is inside a cabinet, but I would mainly get it for neatness / all-in-one reasons rather than performance. can you actually run one of these cards without the antenna attached, and just have a the brass nubs be the receivers or would the signal be total shit?
Wouldn't be surprised to see launch prices which were $10-$20 higher like last time if there is actual good performance gain. Plus you already have the built in Intel vs AMD motherboard tax. The $210 chip became $235 with coupons.
Wouldn't be surprised to see launch prices which were $10-$20 higher like last time if there is actual good performance gain. Plus you already have the built in Intel vs AMD motherboard tax. The $210 chip became $235 with coupons.
Yeah, some small incremental gain on price is likely. The motherboard hike when we went from Z77->Z87 was a bit hard to swallow at first. It was only like $15 on most of the range, but it made the budget builds a *lot* harder to put together.
So I recently got my faulty logic board replaced on my 2011 MacBook Pro and the replacement board is already on the fritz. I'm about to bite the bullet and finally build myself a gaming PC.
Couple of questions:
1. Is this a good time to buy components? I've read some things about new GPU's and CPU's coming out in a few months. Would it be better to wait for those and/or a price drop on the current models or will it not really make much of a difference? My MacBook could probably hang on for another few months, but I've got an itchy trigger finger and a loaded Amazon basket...
2. How does this look as a first timers build? Are there any things I'm missing or things I have that aren't necessary? I've done a fair amount of reading and research, but like I said, I'm a first-timer so any and all feedback would be fantastic.
Well, considering that's exactly what happened with Lynnfield, Sandy, Ivy, and non-DC Haswell, yes.
What happens is that Intel cuts supply well beforehand, and then as the new product launches, retailers slowly reduce their own prices on the product. Intel's MSRP doesn't change. As far as Intel is concerned, Haswell (consumer) is a dead product once Skylake (consumer) launches. They're competing with themsleves a tiny bit, as this very thread often suggests sticking with the previous platform unless there's some major benefit to be had.
However, this time around, we get DDR4. So, there really is no competition. It's most certainly not competing with X99 and Haswell-E, as the consumer socket proc is only at 16 PCI-E lanes with dual channel memory as well as topping out at 4C/8T, compared to Haswell-E with 48 PCI-E lanes, quad channel memory, and procs with 6C/12T for starters and topping out at 8C/16T.
*edit*
I mean, motherboards and processors on the consumer socket have been in the $100+ range on the Z series mobos, and $330 for the top i7 product every launch. Maybe $5-10 differences here and there, but it's stayed that way ever since they switched to the Tick-Tock release. There's nothing to indicate that situation is going to change.
If you run fans at 1200-1400RPM, the differences in noise created at similar RPM is almost negligible. The only difference is the sound characteristic. But even then, most should be at or lower than ambient noise in a room.
Which is why I said "whether MSRP changes or not." There will be deals to be had and if the leaked benchmarks on single core performance hold up, the price may not justify it for gaming. We're all GPU bound at this point anyway unless DX12 really does provide better multi-core CPU support.
Hopefully, some of this will get sorted out at Computex. I'm still sitting on a 2500k that has been doing 4.7ghz 24/7 for years, and I'd like to upgrade, but I haven't been motivated yet. If DX12 does what it says, X99 might be the better option anyway.
I'm running over budget, so I can't really afford to spend much more. However, if these monitors are crap I suppose I could scrounge a few more pennies together.
Hello again, all. As my build continues to take shape, I'd like an opinion on my choice of PSU.
i7-4790K and GTX 960 have already been purchased. I would also like to have the option to upgrade to a 970 if I choose to do so sooner than later. Would a Seasonic 520W M12II be sufficient for my needs? Would it be able to handle overclocking?
Hello again, all. As my build continues to take shape, I'd like an opinion on my choice of PSU.
i7-4790K and GTX 960 have already been purchased. I would also like to have the option to upgrade to a 970 if I choose to do so sooner than later. Would a Seasonic 520W M12II be sufficient for my needs? Would it be able to handle overclocking?
I see little sense in upgrading from a 960 to a 960 honestly... At the very least wait for the new nvidia GPUs.
520W might be a little tight but it should work.
Hello again, all. As my build continues to take shape, I'd like an opinion on my choice of PSU.
i7-4790K and GTX 960 have already been purchased. I would also like to have the option to upgrade to a 970 if I choose to do so sooner than later. Would a Seasonic 520W M12II be sufficient for my needs? Would it be able to handle overclocking?
So I recently got my faulty logic board replaced on my 2011 MacBook Pro and the replacement board is already on the fritz. I'm about to bite the bullet and finally build myself a gaming PC.
Couple of questions:
1. Is this a good time to buy components? I've read some things about new GPU's and CPU's coming out in a few months. Would it be better to wait for those and/or a price drop on the current models or will it not really make much of a difference? My MacBook could probably hang on for another few months, but I've got an itchy trigger finger and a loaded Amazon basket...
2. How does this look as a first timers build? Are there any things I'm missing or things I have that aren't necessary? I've done a fair amount of reading and research, but like I said, I'm a first-timer so any and all feedback would be fantastic.
1) I'd definitely suggest waiting on month on GPU stuff. Computex is soon, which is when AMD is doing their announcement and possibly even release.
2) It looks like a pretty good build, but you're definitely overspending in some areas that don't really pay off in any meaningful way. Mostly the PSU, SSD, and CPU cooler. Swap those out with a cheaper and solid 650W, a Crucial MX/BX, and a Cooler Master Hyper 212. If you drop the DVD drive, you could even squeeze a 120/144Hz monitor into the budget fairly easily. I'll edit in a list once I have a bit of time.
I see little sense in upgrading from a 960 to a 960 honestly... At the very least wait for the new nvidia GPUs.
520W might be a little tight but it should work.
Assuming you meant going from a 960 to a 970, I thought it was supposed to be a rather significant upgrade if one was staying at 1080p. I probably won't be swapping cards for a while regardless, but I just want to make sure that I have an upgrade path ready if I choose to take the plunge. The only reason why I would expedite the upgrade process is due to the fact that I was able to find a 960 cheap enough that if I were to resell it I wouldn't be losing money. If a 970 sale hits that's too good to pass up then I would seize the opportunity.
Ha, thanks! I just needed someone to double-check my work on this one. This is my first build and there's a whole lot to learn. As I've come to understand it, overspending on a PSU (i.e. buying more wattage than one realistically needs) has been commonplace for a long time. This makes validating your choices by comparing directly with others' builds (like those found on PC Part Picker) difficult.
...and it's a good thing I was right about the 520 being sufficient because I just got an email that it shipped. And my motherboard is pulling up to my front door as I type.
Which is why I said "whether MSRP changes or not." There will be deals to be had and if the leaked benchmarks on single core performance hold up, the price may not justify it for gaming. We're all GPU bound at this point anyway unless DX12 really does provide better multi-core CPU support.
Hopefully, some of this will get sorted out at Computex. I'm still sitting on a 2500k that has been doing 4.7ghz 24/7 for years, and I'd like to upgrade, but I haven't been motivated yet. If DX12 does what it says, X99 might be the better option anyway.
I've really been itching to buy a GTX 970 with the Witcher 3 and Batman promo, but I'm still not decided yet. =/
Problem is that this promo only runs until Monday, but is there any information on whether this promo will be updated with different games and what these games will be?
Or am I just missing out if I'm not buying it until Monday?
I've really been itching to buy a GTX 970 with the Witcher 3 and Batman promo, but I'm still not decided yet. =/
Problem is that this promo only runs until Monday, but is there any information on whether this promo will be updated with different games and what these games will be?
Or am I just missing out if I'm not buying it until Monday?
OK so I got my 970 and I went to take out my old 670 and I think I may have accidentally snapped that small plastic thing that you click the card into iin the PCIe slot. I'm really annoyed with myself . am I totally fucked?
I'm just worried it won't rest properly. But the thing did boot and display showed but still...don't want cause damage here.
I've really been itching to buy a GTX 970 with the Witcher 3 and Batman promo, but I'm still not decided yet. =/
Problem is that this promo only runs until Monday, but is there any information on whether this promo will be updated with different games and what these games will be?
Or am I just missing out if I'm not buying it until Monday?
OK so I got my 970 and I went to take out my old 670 and I think I may have accidentally snapped that small plastic thing that you click the card into iin the PCIe slot. I'm really annoyed with myself . am I totally fucked?
I'm just worried it won't rest properly. But the thing did boot and display showed but still...don't want cause damage here.
OK so I got my 970 and I went to take out my old 670 and I think I may have accidentally snapped that small plastic thing that you click the card into iin the PCIe slot. I'm really annoyed with myself . am I totally fucked?
I'm just worried it won't rest properly. But the thing did boot and display showed but still...don't want cause damage here.
I am going to (cross) post this here, I am not getting any responses in the Tech help Thread.
Is the issue with my power supply unit?
After swapping the secondary HDD (Not the main OS C:/ drive) this is what my computer is doing when I attempt to turn it on. https://vid.me/e/WFWq
Just in case the video is not clear, like a car or a motorcycle engine, it revs for a second in attempt to start, but fails to contiue staring, shuts down and it automatically cycles through by reving again, until I turn the power switch off on the PSU box or unplug the machine,
In the past it used to freeze for a few seconds and shut down on me, I always suspected the Power supply unit is slowly and surely dying. It is 650Watts, I do have two GPUs in my computer (not SLI) but I do run two graphic cards (one tiny one) and two hard drives, but yeah, even when I removed one of the GPU, no cigar.
Also, worth to mention, I took a can of dust buster (with a straw tip) and blew it all over the insides of the machine, nothing too drastic, but I did that as well..
I honestly don't remember the exact idle voltage without checking in the bios. Somewhere around 0.9 to 1.050 idle. Load I had to use a +0.040 offset to get it stable and keep speedstep working, and it hits around 1.330 during Prime or BurnTest.
High 30s idle, mid 60s burn load usually. Hyper 212+ push/pull in a corsair 600T SE. I'm glad you asked, because I just discovered my front intake fan has died. The LEDs still work, so I assumed it was running. The supplied Corsair fans in this thing are terrible. Second one that has died on me.
I am going to (cross) post this here, I am not getting any responses in the Tech help Thread.
Is the issue with my power supply unit?
After swapping the secondary HDD (Not the main OS C:/ drive) this is what my computer is doing when I attempt to turn it on. https://vid.me/e/WFWq
Just in case the video is not clear, like a car or a motorcycle engine, it revs for a second in attempt to start, but fails to contiue staring, shuts down and it automatically cycles through by reving again, until I turn the power switch off on the PSU box or unplug the machine,
In the past it used to freeze for a few seconds and shut down on me, I always suspected the Power supply unit is slowly and surely dying. It is 650Watts, I do have two GPUs in my computer (not SLI) but I do run two graphic cards (one tiny one) and two hard drives, but yeah, even when I removed one of the GPU, no cigar.
Also, worth to mention, I took a can of dust buster (with a straw tip) and blew it all over the insides of the machine, nothing too drastic, but I did that as well..
After doing a lot of research I am leaning towards upgrading from a evga gtx 780 classified to a msi gaming gtx 980. Am I going to see any smother frames at high settings on a 1080p screen and a 1440p screen? I don't plan on going to 4k anytime soon at all. I really just want a nice upgrade to what I have while I wait for good 4k cards to come out. I thought about a gtx 970 but it seems like that is basically the same power to what I have now. Thinking about the gtx 980 ti as well but I don't think I could stomach $700 for it if that is the price. Any help on this decision would be awesome.
After doing a lot of research I am leaning towards upgrading from a evga gtx 780 classified to a msi gaming gtx 980. Am I going to see any smother frames at high settings on a 1080p screen and a 1440p screen? I don't plan on going to 4k anytime soon at all. I really just want a nice upgrade to what I have while I wait for good 4k cards to come out. I thought about a gtx 970 but it seems like that is basically the same power to what I have now. Thinking about the gtx 980 ti as well but I don't think I could stomach $700 for it if that is the price. Any help on this decision would be awesome.
980 is a great card, smooth frame rates depends on your settings as per usual, 1440p downsampled also depends on the game, i was getting about 40 frames on the witcher 3 downsampling from 1440 tp 1080 with everything on ultra and hairworks off, is a great card, i would suggest to wait until next week to see if a miracle happens, either the 980ti is $650 or the 980 get a price cut
980 is a great card, smooth frame rates depends on your settings as per usual, 1440p downsampled also depends on the game, i was getting about 40 frames on the witcher 3 downsampling from 1440 tp 1080 with everything on ultra and hairworks off, is a great card, i would suggest to wait until next week to see if a miracle happens, either the 980ti is $650 or the 980 get a price cut
Thanks for the input. That sounds like a plan. I am thinking about buying one now to get the free games and wait till next week before taking it out of the box so I don't miss out on the free games. Is there a restocking fee for returning unopened items to newegg? Haven't ever sent anything back that was still new hardware.
Thanks for the input. That sounds like a plan. I am thinking about buying one now to get the free games and wait till next week before taking it out of the box so I don't miss out on the free games. Is there a restocking fee for returning unopened items to newegg? Haven't ever sent anything back that was still new hardware.
Your Current Specs: None, starting from scratch
Budget: $500-$800 USD Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming: 1, Gaming: 5, Emulation (PS2/Wii): 0, Video Editing: 0, Streaming games in HD: 2, 3D/Model work: 0, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) 4. Monitor Resolution: 1080p living room TV, will probably not go 4K for a while
Looking to play new PC games like the Witcher 3, Arkham Knight, etc etc at least at 30fps running 1080p. That's fine with me as long as it still looks better than its console counterpart. How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you? PhysX would be nice, but I can live without it for a time if need be. When will you build?: During the second half of the year Will you be overclocking?: Yes
My question is, will a EVGA GTX 970 FTW+ ACX 2.0 fit with a 240 radiator inside? (H100/H100i)
My other alternative would be Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 with a 120mm AIO cooler hooked to the back.
I really want the G1 but the size wont let me have a 240mm radiator up front so I need to have an air cooler or one of the closed looped coolers on the CPU.
Just curious if anyone has one and their set up. Im looking for the best 120mm AIO cooler but cant find one yet. (dont want an air cooler atm)
So, I've successfully sold my Fractal Design R2 XL case, my Asrock extreme 4 (newly bought for SLI) and my i7 2600k and bought a good used (I would even say they're new) from a craigslist-like website a i7 4790k and a Asus Maximus gene IV.
Got them for about 280€ and 80€ which is a great price where I live (about 80-100€ less on both than retail!).
And I was a lucky guy and found a guy who sold me his good used (almost new) Silverstone SG10 mATX case for 45€.
My specs:
Silverstone SG10 (mATX case) (former Fractal Design R2 XL)
i7 4790k CPU (former i7 2600k)
Asus Maximus Gene IV mainboard (former Asrock extreme 4)
2x KFA 2 GTX 970 extreme oc Black Edition
2x 2gb DDR3 1333 Samsung
1x 4gb DDR3 1333 GEIL
Corsair RM 750W PSU
500GB MX100 SSD 2,5 inch
2TB WD 5200rpm HDD 3,5 inch
1TB Seagate 5200rpm HDD 3,5 inch
I was able to build everything in the case (cable management was hard, but possible) and I'm very happy with the result.
SSD is currently duck taped because the mounts for it are missing are on their way after a friendly conversation with the seller.
But first time booting I was really sad because it wasn't working and the led's were red 00 (which wasn't really telling me much even after reading the handbook) and after plugging everything differently I was trying a different approach.
I was really afraid that the cpu or the mainboard was broken which really would be really bad for me.
After doing research I was able to find a tutorial to how to flash a bios with just a usb drive and after copying the file from my phone and plugging it to the mainboard I was able to successfully flash it and it booted.
I've now set up almost everything and I'm really happy how it works/looks and it's really quiet for a small compact high end pc which is something I really love.
I still have a 120mm fan which I want to fit into the bay which already has one and allows two 80mm but I'm probably gonna try to fit it there which probably improve airflow of the graphic cards.
They don't have much to breathe and the first card ranges from 45c (idle) to 53c (after gaming) to 83c (gaming) which is fine but I would like to lower it if possible with a second 120mm fan.
The cpu is fine, ranges from 44c to 73c.
If you have any tips or recommendations I would like to hear them!
This was a huge switch, from a big spaced and heavy overkill XL R2 to one of the smallest mATX SLI cases =).
I wasn't planning buying a new CPU but I couldn't find a SLI mATX mainboard anywhere (one time I was almost be able to buy a previous version of my current mainboard for 1155 socket but it was already gone after I contacted the seller).
I've spend about 40-60€ doing this (selling the old parts got me almost everything back) which is quiet ok I think.
I never gonna look back to an ATX case or XL ATX case, I don't need all those hard drive cages and space =D
Any recommendations/suggestions/comments/questions about my build are welcome!
Also, I'm looking for a trolley which looks like this with two wheels but my case has to fit in it (with a little upholstery so it won't get scratched transporting it).
Any recommendations which one I should buy for my case?
It shouldn't be too big and I would really like to buy one like the above but I'm not sure if it would fit.
