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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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This may be an odd question but i'll go ahead and ask anyway :)

I know the 980Ti isn't out yet but there were leaks and benchmarks that were considered legit (at least i read they were legit).

How much faster is the 980TI compared to a 780Ti?

I guess my question is this:

Does one 980Ti = 2 780Ti ?

I currently have a 780Ti SLI system and i'm wondering if it would be a good or bad move to sell both and get a single 980Ti when they come out.

If im talking nonsense just tell me to go sit in the corner :p
 

mkenyon

Banned
I need a new USB WiFi adapter. The one I got (TL-WN722N) 4 years ago is shitting the bed. Any suggestions?

edit: here are my down/upload speeds
4392348969.png
Have you looked into Powerline Adapters? I'd be more helpful, but I no little to nothing about various wireless adapters because I'm an old man that doesn't trust that stuff for my desktop :p
This may be an odd question but i'll go ahead and ask anyway :)

I know the 980Ti isn't out yet but there were leaks and benchmarks that were considered legit (at least i read they were legit).

How much faster is the 980TI compared to a 780Ti?

I guess my question is this:

Does one 980Ti = 2 780Ti ?

I currently have a 780Ti SLI system and i'm wondering if it would be a good or bad move to sell both and get a single 980Ti when they come out.

If im talking nonsense just tell me to go sit in the corner :p
You can really roughly base it on Titan X performance, maybe about 5%ish less powerful. Perhaps even less than that. Google Titan X Review, and try to find something that compares and contrasts it with two 780 Tis.

tl;dr

It won't be as powerful, but you also will have a frame less of input lag (because of SLI), as well as having consistent performance as you won't have to rely on SLI profiles.
Hey folks. Has there been any issues of note with the GTX 970 Zotac or EVGA SC ACX 2.0? Generally favor one over the other? EVGA cooling solution questionable? May need to replace my video card soon, and I'm looking up info on these (because of price on newegg, heh).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500362

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
EVGA has a three year warranty based on serial #, which drastically increases it's resale value.
 
When are Intel's new CPUs supposed to come out? I want to do a full upgrade, but can wait if they are coming out sometime this year. I always get this crazy anxiety that I will be missing the next big thing when building a new computer.

No hard and fast date, but Skylake-K will supposedly be out by late summer / early fall.

However, the leaked benches are only showing 4-8% increased multicore performance over a 4790k, while the price difference will no doubt be astronomical. I'm still rocking a 2500k that I am dying to find an excuse to replace, but I still haven't found one. Maybe the leaked benches are not accurate. We'll see.

http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/flagship-intel-skylake-s-core-i7-6700k-cpu-benchmarked,2.html
 

Arkanius

Member
Guys, I'm thinking of replacing my case fans for Noctua fans for silence and better cooling performance.

I have two front intakes of 140mm
3 exhauts of 120mm (Rear and 2x Top)

Does anyone have a suggestion on which models I buy?
 

mkenyon

Banned
No hard and fast date, but Skylake-K will supposedly be out by late summer / early fall.

However, the leaked benches are only showing 4-8% increased multicore performance over a 4790k, while the price difference will no doubt be astronomical. I'm still rocking a 2500k that I am dying to find an excuse to replace, but I still haven't found one. Maybe the leaked benches are not accurate. We'll see.

http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/flagship-intel-skylake-s-core-i7-6700k-cpu-benchmarked,2.html
Say what?
Guys, I'm thinking of replacing my case fans for Noctua fans for silence and better cooling performance.

I have two front intakes of 140mm
3 exhauts of 120mm (Rear and 2x Top)

Does anyone have a suggestion on which models I buy?
Current case? Internal parts?

It's likely, unless you have some seriously crazy hardware setup inside, that you could probably cut that down to 2-3 fans, which would help a lot with noise.
 

Arkanius

Member
Say what?

Current case? Internal parts?

It's likely, unless you have some seriously crazy hardware setup inside, that you could probably cut that down to 2-3 fans, which would help a lot with noise.

CM 690 Advanced II
I5 3570k OC at 4.4 Ghz (Noctua cooler)
AMD 280X (which I have limited to be running at 50% fan speed due the insane noise it makes. Hovering 80 degrees on 100% load with 31 degrees of ambient temp)
3 HDD's
1 SSD
AX750W PSU
 

mkenyon

Banned
CM 690 Advanced II
I5 3570k OC at 4.4 Ghz (Noctua cooler)
AMD 280X (which I have limited to be running at 50% fan speed due the insane noise it makes. Hovering 80 degrees on 100% load with 31 degrees of ambient temp)
3 HDD's
1 SSD
AX750W PSU
Yeah, you could seriously just have 2 intake and 1 exhaust no problem. I'd stick with 120mm fans because they're typically better (and less expensive). Really, any <$10 fan that runs around 1200-1400rpm is going to give you almost identical performance.

The point of Noctua fans is that they typically sound better at higher RPMs, which isn't really necessary for case fans.
 

SRG01

Member
So, my strange computer issues seem to have resolved themselves.

Additionally, I managed to "fit" a 200mm Mega Flow fan into the case -- which brought temperatures down drastically -- but I'm starting to look at 140mm fans instead. Namely, is it better to use more 140mm fans instead of a larger 200mm fan (both in terms of noise and CFM)? My case also has filters at the fan intakes, and I've read that this impacts 200mm fan performance because of the lack of static pressure...
 

mkenyon

Banned
Depends, generally 120mm fans are the best performing. Most 140mm are the same design as the 120 but just sized up a bit, which completely changes the way it works.

Just as an example, generally 120mm rads are right on par with 140mm rads, or even better, simply because 140mm fans don't provide the same performance:noise that 120mm fans can. This is despite a hugely increased surface area on the radiator.
 

Arkanius

Member
Yeah, you could seriously just have 2 intake and 1 exhaust no problem. I'd stick with 120mm fans because they're typically better (and less expensive). Really, any <$10 fan that runs around 1200-1400rpm is going to give you almost identical performance.

The point of Noctua fans is that they typically sound better at higher RPMs, which isn't really necessary for case fans.

You suggest replacing the front 140mm for a 120mm?

I was recommended this setup with the side fan optional.

 
Say what?

The price difference between building a Skylake system and a Devil's Canyon system will be high compared to the performance difference.

You don't think Intel is going to squeeze every penny out of a new processor architecture? Even if the processors cost the same, the motherboards and DDR4 will cost more than building a Z97 system. I'd guess prices will fall somewhere between Z97 and X99 parts.
 

finalflame

Member
Looking into producing some higher quality gaming videos + streaming. What's a good quality standalone mic and pop filter? Looking to get the kind of clean, crisp sound you find in the nicer content out there.

Also, recommendations for a good quality capture device that'll do 1080p/60 capture via HDMI?
 

LtOrange

Member
The price difference between building a Skylake system and a Devil's Canyon system will be high compared to the performance difference.

You don't think Intel is going to squeeze every penny out of a new processor architecture? Even if the processors cost the same, the motherboards and DDR4 will cost more than building a Z97 system. I'd guess prices will fall somewhere between Z97 and X99 parts.

Maybe I need to rethink about waiting if that is the case.
 

Drop

Member
Hi PcGaf! I'm planning on building my first gaming pc, being the first pc I build I don't have much experience, so I'm looking for advices. I'd like to spend between 800-850€
This is what I put together using PcPartPicker, I had to fix some prices that are actually lower than what's displayed or were not present. The prices are all from Amazon Italia because it's the only site pcPartPicker uses for Italy, and I don't really know of another good place to buy pc parts here, every site I checked has higher prices.

PCPartPicker part list: http://it.pcpartpicker.com/p/RbNxdC
Price breakdown by merchant: http://it.pcpartpicker.com/p/RbNxdC/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (€238.00 @ Amazon Italia)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (€33.38 @ Amazon Italia)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (€106.15 @ Amazon Italia)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (€63.01 @ Amazon Italia)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive (€57.69 @ Amazon Italia)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€58.69 @ Amazon Italia)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280 3GB Dual-X Video Card (€183.99)
Case: Cooler Master K280 ATX Mid Tower Case (€42.07 @ Amazon Italia)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply (€58.10 @ Amazon Italia)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer (€17.81)
Total: €858.89

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-28 18:42 CEST+0200

I'll use it only for general purpose and gaming, I don't need graphics to be on ultra or even high as long as I can get a stable framerate from any game, even 30 fps would be fine with the most demanding games as long as there are no drops. I'd play with my monitor resolution, which is 1366 x 768(I plan on upgrading at a later time). Of course I'd still like to get the best performances I can with my budget, and also to have a good base to upgrade in the future.

Tell me what you think about the build. What could I improve?
Also, is this cpu cooler enough to overclock or would I need a better one? At first I was going to use the stock cooler, and only overclock in the future once I upgraded it, but since I've decided to get another cooler immediately just to be safe I'd like to overclock if I can.
 

Stubo

Member
You suggest replacing the front 140mm for a 120mm?

I was recommended this setup with the side fan optional.
I'd try this first:

That should give you good temps.

Definitely don't use the front-roof fan, that's going to take air away which would otherwise be going through your CPU cooler.

The side fan is the best way to get cold air onto your GPU, however it's up to you if you think having it there is worth it for you or not.
 

LilJoka

Member
Guys, I'm thinking of replacing my case fans for Noctua fans for silence and better cooling performance.

I have two front intakes of 140mm
3 exhauts of 120mm (Rear and 2x Top)

Does anyone have a suggestion on which models I buy?

Your hardware is pushing very little watts in such a huge case. Have you tried simply reducing your case fan speeds? Its very likely you can use your PC as you are without any thermal issues. At most you will drop a couple of degrees after spending 100bucks on Noctuas running at 600rpm vs stock fans at 600rpm.

What are your ambient temperatures?
CPU temperatures at idle/gaming?
GPU temperatures at idle/gaming?

Do you have your case fans connected to Molex or motherboard 3pin fan headers?

Fan config Stubo has shown is good, personally i would get rid of the side fan, its known to just disrupt the overall airflow. Have the PSU fan facing the bottom of the case if you have clean hard flooring, otherwise have the fan on the top side.
 

Arkanius

Member
Your hardware is pushing very little watts in such a huge case. Have you tried simply reducing your case fan speeds? Its very likely you can use your PC as you are without any thermal issues. At most you will drop a couple of degrees after spending 100bucks on Noctuas running at 600rpm vs stock fans at 600rpm.

What are your ambient temperatures?
CPU temperatures at idle/gaming?
GPU temperatures at idle/gaming?

Do you have your case fans connected to Molex or motherboard 3pin fan headers?

Fan config Stubo has shown is good, personally i would get rid of the side fan, its known to just disrupt the overall airflow. Have the PSU fan facing the bottom of the case if you have clean hard flooring, otherwise have the fan on the top side.


Reposting my temps.

MYWRh1w.png



On Full Load it's:
GPU: 80-85º at 50% fan speed (Manually forced for low noise)
CPU: 70º

Ambient temperatures right now: 30-35º

My fans are connected to the Mobo. Only the front fan is connected directly to the PSU, which means, it's at 100% constantly.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I'd try this first:


That should give you good temps.

Definitely don't use the front-roof fan, that's going to take air away which would otherwise be going through your CPU cooler.

The side fan is the best way to get cold air onto your GPU, however it's up to you if you think having it there is worth it for you or not.
+1, exactly what I'd suggest. The other one had crazy negative pressure, which isn't the best way to go about things.
The price difference between building a Skylake system and a Devil's Canyon system will be high compared to the performance difference.

You don't think Intel is going to squeeze every penny out of a new processor architecture? Even if the processors cost the same, the motherboards and DDR4 will cost more than building a Z97 system. I'd guess prices will fall somewhere between Z97 and X99 parts.
History says it shouldn't be considerably more at all. Maybe a $20-30 premium on motherboards. DDR4 is more expensive right now, but prices have been steadily declining and should continue to do so as production is ramped up further.

I've also heard some murmurings of DDR3 and DDR4 compatibility, so there should be some less expensive DDR3 motherboards available.

However, that's not astronomical, which is what you originally said. Though NeoGAF is the home of hyperbole, we generally try to keep it out of this thread since it's oriented around consumer advice.
 

Thorgal

Member
It's neither true nor false. Ones that come with that essentially ship with a USB dongle that is a DAC which virtualizes it. That has no bearing on speaker quality.

late response :

thanks again .

I bought the kingston one and i love it , was well worth the money .
 

LilJoka

Member
Reposting my temps.

MYWRh1w.png



On Full Load it's:
GPU: 80-85º at 50% fan speed (Manually forced for low noise)
CPU: 70º

Ambient temperatures right now: 30-35º

My fans are connected to the Mobo. Only the front fan is connected directly to the PSU, which means, it's at 100% constantly.

Your temps arent really bad for your 31c ambient, pretty good actually. See how the noise is if you unplug that front fan for a few minutes. Im sure itll be a lot quieter. If that solves the noise, there is no reason to swap out fans for new fans for lots of bucks to gain a few degrees. Concentrate on the flow and the right rpm. For example, your CPU fan RPM is at 1200RPM at 70c, see what happens if that is tuned to 900RPM, maybe on 1/2*c difference. Tune your setup and you can probably shave a few dB and it makes a fair difference.

As an example, i run my i7 3770 at about 75c in games with a 7v fan on the CPU, about 800rpm.

If that doesnt achieve what you want, then start looking for new fans, just dont expect miracles! The case design also will exaggerate/attenuate noise, and so will HDD's. You might want to boot your PC with all SATA Power plugs removed from the HDDs and boot into the SSD. See how much it effects noise.

You may end up conclusion that its not really fans that are making a ton of noise, but a combination of things.

As for the GPU, nothing you will do will make it better, except a more efficient GPU/better GPU cooler design.
 

Arkanius

Member
Your temps arent really bad for your 31c ambient, pretty good actually. See how the noise is if you unplug that front fan for a few minutes. Im sure itll be a lot quieter. If that solves the noise, there is no reason to swap out fans for new fans for lots of bucks to gain a few degrees. Concentrate on the flow and the right rpm. For example, your CPU fan RPM is at 1200RPM at 70c, see what happens if that is tuned to 900RPM, maybe on 1/2*c difference. Tune your setup and you can probably shave a few dB and it makes a fair difference.

As an example, i run my i7 3770 at about 75c in games with a 7v fan on the CPU, about 800rpm.

If that doesnt achieve what you want, then start looking for new fans, just dont expect miracles! The case design also will exaggerate/attenuate noise, and so will HDD's. You might want to boot your PC with all SATA Power plugs removed from the HDDs and boot into the SSD. See how much it effects noise.

You may end up conclusion that its not really fans that are making a ton of noise, but a combination of things.

As for the GPU, nothing you will do will make it better, except a more efficient GPU/better GPU cooler design.

The objective of replacing the fans was to:
Cool the case better
Maintain the level of noise or reduce it.

This is because my GPU is noisy as hell if the fans go above 50% (it's a Windforce cooler with 3 fans), so i reduced it. The temperatures at full load no stay around 80-85 which makes me anxious.

Replacing the fans or optimizing the flow was to cool down the whole case inside, and reduce both CPU and GPU at the same time.

I'm satisfied with the current noise (and the fans aren't that good other than the cooler, which is already a Noctua).

I'll try disabling the top fans and see if they are indeed ruinining tunnel effect.
 

Stubo

Member
Your hardware is pushing very little watts in such a huge case. Have you tried simply reducing your case fan speeds? Its very likely you can use your PC as you are without any thermal issues. At most you will drop a couple of degrees after spending 100bucks on Noctuas running at 600rpm vs stock fans at 600rpm.

What are your ambient temperatures?
CPU temperatures at idle/gaming?
GPU temperatures at idle/gaming?

Do you have your case fans connected to Molex or motherboard 3pin fan headers?

Fan config Stubo has shown is good, personally i would get rid of the side fan, its known to just disrupt the overall airflow. Have the PSU fan facing the bottom of the case if you have clean hard flooring, otherwise have the fan on the top side.
I don't personally run a side fan because it would be detrimental to the silence of my build and I have 2 front intakes and a bottom intake already. However, I'll link to this comprehensive fan test.

The graph below shows that the side panel fan still continues to have a massive positive effect on cooling, even with three fans installed - the three setups that performed the best in this test all included a side panel fan.

If you can deal with the acoustics and the slight inconvenience of that cable being there whenever you take your side panel off, it is probably worth having.
 

Arkanius

Member
I don't personally run a side fan because it would be detrimental to the silence of my build and I have 2 front intakes and a bottom intake already. However, I'll link to this comprehensive fan test.



If you can deal with the acoustics and the slight inconvenience of that cable being there whenever you take your side panel off, it is probably worth having.

The fan would be away from me. The side that is nearer me is the right side of the case (front view). So it wouldn't impact acoustics that much I think?

That data that was presented in the link shows that the rear exhaust and top exhaust being as the most important fans for heat transfer to outside the case? Doesn't that go against the new diagram that removes both top fans?
 
Folks, I'm cross-posting from the Witcher Performance thread, but I'm looking for some feedback as to whether I'm barking up the right tree or not. Got a 970 to replace a 770 in my main machine. Everything works great there. No complaints with that machine. Took the 770 and threw it into my old machine to replace a 560 Ti. Coupled with an AMD Phenom II X4 940 and 8 GB of RAM, I know the CPU is on the low end of things (minimum recommended spec for Witcher 3), and as such it's not the greatest rig in the world, but it should be able to run, right? And run it did... for about 30 minutes. And I've been having frequent crashes ever since. Can't play for more than 5 - 10 minutes without the game locking up and needing to close it from the task manager.

Now, the 770 did have a factory overclock on it, so I tried lowering that. Didn't seem to help. Then, upon further inquiry, I started to wonder about the PSU. This was a machine built in 2009 with a 500W PSU that has never been replaced. I looked up the specifications of the 770, and it recommends a 600W PSU. Now, I never had this issue with my other machine that had a 550W PSU, but I'm wondering if this may be my problem. Would insufficient power be a likely culprit for frequent crashing? And by crashing, I mean the game freezes up, but the sound continues. Only way to close the app is through task manager.

I'm fine with buying a new PSU. But since this is my secondary machine, I'm not really interested in pumping money into it on a wild goose chase. I can and should just stick with playing it on my main machine anyway. If the other one is doomed to not running Witcher 3 then so be it. But if a better PSU will fix it, I'm willing to give it a shot. The feedback I'm looking for is just whether people who know more than I do think that a 500W PSU might be inadequate for the 770 and might account for the symptoms I'm having. If not, I won't bother with it.
 

LilJoka

Member
The objective of replacing the fans was to:
Cool the case better
Maintain the level of noise or reduce it.

This is because my GPU is noisy as hell if the fans go above 50% (it's a Windforce cooler with 3 fans), so i reduced it. The temperatures at full load no stay around 80-85 which makes me anxious.

Replacing the fans or optimizing the flow was to cool down the whole case inside, and reduce both CPU and GPU at the same time.

I'm satisfied with the current noise (and the fans aren't that good other than the cooler, which is already a Noctua).

I'll try disabling the top fans and see if they are indeed ruinining tunnel effect.

I will bet that nothing you will do will reduce case temps, apart from higher rpm fans and higher noise. You can buy any fan and run it it at a medium 1000rpm and itll perform just as good as any other branded fan. At most itll be 1-2*c difference.

Very surprised the GPU runs so hot with the Windforce cooler, possibly just the case fan config needs adjusting, rather than new fans.

I assume everything is properly dusted down?
 

Stubo

Member
The fan would be away from me. The side that is nearer me is the right side of the case (front view). So it wouldn't impact acoustics that much I think?

That data that was presented in the link shows that the rear exhaust and top exhaust being as the most important fans for heat transfer to outside the case? Doesn't that go against the new diagram that removes both top fans?
As well as the raw temperatures it's important to consider the air pressure of your case to prevent dust from building up inside.

Simply put, you want more intakes than exhausts so that air is trying to escape from the gaps in your case which blows dust out, instead of sucking it in.

The balance of CPU vs GPU temps, combined with the air pressure inside your case would lead me to suggest front, side and rear fans.

You could always experiment to see which configuration works for you though!
 

thespot84

Member
Folks, I'm cross-posting from the Witcher Performance thread, but I'm looking for some feedback as to whether I'm barking up the right tree or not. Got a 970 to replace a 770 in my main machine. Everything works great there. No complaints with that machine. Took the 770 and threw it into my old machine to replace a 560 Ti. Coupled with an AMD Phenom II X4 940 and 8 GB of RAM, I know the CPU is on the low end of things (minimum recommended spec for Witcher 3), and as such it's not the greatest rig in the world, but it should be able to run, right? And run it did... for about 30 minutes. And I've been having frequent crashes ever since. Can't play for more than 5 - 10 minutes without the game locking up and needing to close it from the task manager.

Now, the 770 did have a factory overclock on it, so I tried lowering that. Didn't seem to help. Then, upon further inquiry, I started to wonder about the PSU. This was a machine built in 2009 with a 500W PSU that has never been replaced. I looked up the specifications of the 770, and it recommends a 600W PSU. Now, I never had this issue with my other machine that had a 550W PSU, but I'm wondering if this may be my problem. Would insufficient power be a likely culprit for frequent crashing? And by crashing, I mean the game freezes up, but the sound continues. Only way to close the app is through task manager.

I'm fine with buying a new PSU. But since this is my secondary machine, I'm not really interested in pumping money into it on a wild goose chase. I can and should just stick with playing it on my main machine anyway. If the other one is doomed to not running Witcher 3 then so be it. But if a better PSU will fix it, I'm willing to give it a shot. The feedback I'm looking for is just whether people who know more than I do think that a 500W PSU might be inadequate for the 770 and might account for the symptoms I'm having. If not, I won't bother with it.

When the game freezes does it blur and say 'loading'? or just insta-crashes? I'm running a 770 with a 660w, an SSD and an HDD, and an h100i cooler. I've had the game blur out once and then 'load' forever and I had to kill it via task manager. Is your ram from 2009 as well?
 

Arkanius

Member
I will bet that nothing you will do will reduce case temps, apart from higher rpm fans and higher noise. You can buy any fan and run it it at a medium 1000rpm and itll perform just as good as any other branded fan. At most itll be 1-2*c difference.

Very surprised the GPU runs so hot with the Windforce cooler, possibly just the case fan config needs adjusting, rather than new fans.

I assume everything is properly dusted down?

I'm limiting the speed of the fans to be 50% at 100% load for silence reasons. 2000 RPM if I'm not mistaken.

As well as the raw temperatures it's important to consider the air pressure of your case to prevent dust from building up inside.

Simply put, you want more intakes than exhausts so that air is trying to escape from the gaps in your case which blows dust out, instead of sucking it in.

The balance of CPU vs GPU temps, combined with the air pressure inside your case would lead me to suggest front, side and rear fans.

You could always experiment to see which configuration works for you though!

Didnt really consider the negative/positive pressure of the case. yeah right now, it's clearly exhausting more than intaking.
 
When the game freezes does it blur and say 'loading'? or just insta-crashes? I'm running a 770 with a 660w, an SSD and an HDD, and an h100i cooler. I've had the game blur out once and then 'load' forever and I had to kill it via task manager. Is your ram from 2009 as well?

When it freezes the image just freezes. No blurring it loading message. Some of the geometry distorts, but the image just locks locks up while the BGM plays on.

4 GB of the RAM is from 2009, 4 was bought about a year ago.
 

Rainy Dog

Member
What's the conscious on running an external hard drive enclosure fanless?

I recently picked up a Silverstone TS431U to house 4 HDD's but the noise from the couple of 60mm rear fans is far from ideal. I'd say it's actually louder than my PC on full throttle with multiple fans, a 3770k and a GTX 970 all going at it inside a Node 304.

Was considering trying to swap the fans for a couple of Noctua NF-A6x25's but it doesn't look I can really. So was just thinking about disconnecting them?
 
History says it shouldn't be considerably more at all. Maybe a $20-30 premium on motherboards. DDR4 is more expensive right now, but prices have been steadily declining and should continue to do so as production is ramped up further.

I've also heard some murmurings of DDR3 and DDR4 compatibility, so there should be some less expensive DDR3 motherboards available.

However, that's not astronomical, which is what you originally said. Though NeoGAF is the home of hyperbole, we generally try to keep it out of this thread since it's oriented around consumer advice.

What history would tell you that? I remember when the Q6600 launched and it was over $800.

I wouldn't be shocked to see the Skylake-K series commanding a $100-$200 premium over Devil's Canyon. If that's the case and DDR4 is still required, you are talking a $300-$500 price difference for what currently appears to be single digit performance gains in single core performance.

I very much doubt motherboards are only going to run $20 more when moving from Z97 to an X99 motherboard was $100 difference at launch, and you are still seeing similar price difference today between similar level motherboards for each chip set (the Asus X99 deluxe is $390 while the Z97 deluxe is $300). We are going to see Z170 boards at Computex shortly, so maybe they will have pricing then.

The fact of the matter is Intel is going to have Z97, X99, and Z170 platforms all at the same time, and they are certainly going to have price levels set to not cannibalize each other, so either they drop the floor on Z97 or raise the roof on Z170.
 

thespot84

Member
When it freezes the image just freezes. No blurring it loading message. Some of the geometry distorts, but the image just locks locks up while the BGM plays on.

4 GB of the RAM is from 2009, 4 was bought about a year ago.

could you swap PSU's in order to test the older build with proper power?
 
could you swap PSU's in order to test the older build with proper power?

I guess I could. I don't have an extra one sitting around. I guess I could swap out the power supply from my main PC, but as lazy as this sounds I really don't feel like taking that out to test just to have to put everything back in. I'll just order a new one and if it doesn't work I'll send it back. Like I said, I was mainly just wondering if this even sounded like it might plausibly be the issue. I'm not expecting anyone here to be able to definitively troubleshoot this for me. Just a "yeah, a lockup like that is common with an insufficiently powered GPU." Or on the flipside, something like "that's probably not your issue. Despite nVidia's recommendation of a 600W PSU, 500W should power it just fine. And even if it didn't, that's not the kind of crashes you'd get."
 
Ok PC gaf I need some help in deciding on some upgrades to my rig.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($49.00 @ CPL Online)
Motherboard: Gigabyte G1.Sniper Z87 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 750GB 2.5 Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($169.00 @ Centre Com)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Dual Classified ACX Video Card
Case: Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case ($195.99 @ Mwave Australia)
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 750W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply

Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-28 06:19 AEST+1000

This is my current rig that I build at the beginning of 2014. I am wanting to upgrade a bit on the graphics card and the monitor I have which is a Dell 1080p monitor. I would like to get a 1440p monitor for gaming. I like having my games as close to Ultra settings as I can. I do some pc gaming on my LG 47" tv as well. I would say that I would probably game 50% on the 1080p tv and 50% on the 1440p monitor when I get one. I understand the gtx 980 ti is coming out next week but I am not sure if it will be worth the cash. I am tempted right now to go with either gtx 970s in Sli mode or buy one gtx 980 and then another one a bit later for Sli mode.

My questions are simply what are your opinions on the gtx 9 series for 1440p gaming. Is there anything on the AMD side I should consider as well. (I would really like g-sync so that is why I am siding with nvidia right now.) My max budget would be around $650 dollars for a graphics card upgrade. Also I have a 750 watt psu. Should I upgrade that if I want to do Sli with the 9 series? Also as a side note I am running out of space for data. What are some HDD you would recommend? I have been looking at either a Seagate SSHD or getting another WD black hard drive.
 

mkenyon

Banned
What history would tell you that? I remember when the Q6600 launched and it was over $800.

I wouldn't be shocked to see the Skylake-K series commanding a $100-$200 premium over Devil's Canyon. If that's the case and DDR4 is still required, you are talking a $300-$500 price difference for what currently appears to be single digit performance gains in single core performance.

I very much doubt motherboards are only going to run $20 more when moving from Z97 to an X99 motherboard was $100 difference at launch, and you are still seeing similar price difference today between similar level motherboards for each chip set (the Asus X99 deluxe is $390 while the Z97 deluxe is $300). We are going to see Z170 boards at Computex shortly, so maybe they will have pricing then.

The fact of the matter is Intel is going to have Z97, X99, and Z170 platforms all at the same time, and they are certainly going to have price levels set to not cannibalize each other, so either they drop the floor on Z97 or raise the roof on Z170.
So.....

X99 is the enthusiast platform. Ever since the move to the tick-tock release format, it's been basically pointless to compare the consumer platform to the enthusiast platform in terms of pricing for either of them. It's meant to support 42 PCI-E lanes, quad channel memory, and a host of other features that aren't on consumer socker processors.

Additionally, it's not really beneficial to consider the Core Duo products, since they, again, were not a part of the tick-tock format. As a result, the processor that you're talking about would now be more in line with what we have as the enthusiast platform today.

So, the history that we do have which is fairly accurate, is to look at all of the Core series consumer processors. That would be the 1156 socket and P55 motherboards. This was then replaced by the 1155 socket and P67/Z68 motherboards. That was refined with the Z77 motherboards and IvyBridge. That was then replaced by the Z87/Z97 motherboards, socket 1150 Haswell processors.

Those are literally the only releases that matter in any fashion when trying to determine what Skyline consumer socket stuff is going to be priced at.

*edit*

It's pretty clear to me that you don't understand that Intel has three separate divisions of processors that serve entirely different needs. There's the consumer socket stuff (Haswell/1150/Z97), Enthusiast socket stuff (Haswell-E/2011v3/X99) and then Server stuff (Haswell-EP/Xeon 2011v3/C612). They don't really have any bearing on each other.

That's the way that it has been since the first series of core processors through a total of 4 gens with the Tick-Tock release structure, and it's what they are planning to continue to do for the forseeable future.

So, Skylake will be about the same price as the current stuff, except DDR4 is a bit pricier than DDR3. There's really no debate on this.

*edit #2 to help bring a bit more clarity*

P55->P67/Z68->Z77->Z87/97

X58->X79 (no second release for IvyBridge E) ->X99

Those are two totally different product ranges each with their own successors and replacements.
 

The Llama

Member
Jeez I forgot the Q6600 cost that much when it came out. I went with the E6600 and IIRC like 6 months later the Q6600 dropped in price to cost what I had paid for the E6600 and I was pretty bummed haha.
 

kennah

Member
Haha yeah. May have been shorter than that (more like 3 months), I forget. But I was like 17 and had just used all the money I had earned from working at the local grocery store to buy it so I was pretty sad!

My Q6600 ownership story is amusing.

Bought a Core 2 Duo processor off of a friend who worked at Best Buy. It was an E6200 or something like that, nothing special, and I think he sold it to me for $100. Took me a while to go pick it up from him and he kept it at work for a while. So I finally went in, picked it up and took it home. On install and Boot it read as a Q6600. I called him up and asked if he had given me the wrong processor by mistake. He said that it was from where he left it and he couldn't find one anywhere else. Suspected that a co-worker had used his dual core to swap out and take the quad with the intent of swapping it later, and I just happened to come in at the right time. Co-worker nor customer never claimed the Q6600 and I later ended up selling it for what I paid. Woo
 

mkenyon

Banned
Oh man, I bet you almost lost it.

I was 100% AMD procs at that time, totally skipped the whole Intel Core Duo/Quad stuff.

#confession except for my MacBook Pro, all the college kids had to have one rite
 
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