opticalmace
Member
Just OC it to 4Ghz+ and you're set.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Just OC it to 4Ghz+ and you're set.
Fotheringay
Member
OK, how does this look?
Also I have no plans to OC the CPU, so stock cooler OK? And I should have all the hookups needed for both HDs?
If you're anywhere near a Microcenter, they've got quite a deal going on for that CPU.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/434176/Core_i7-4790K_40GHz_LGA_1150_Boxed_Processor
Zeyphersan
Banned
I'm definitely getting a 4K monitor for my next build, that's not a question. What is a question is do I still need AA when running games at 4K?
charlequin
Banned
Okay, when I said I got everything right on my first try for this last build I clearly spoke too soon.
I guess with these ITX boards, they "include" wireless but actually make you install a PCI card to do it? I'd never seen that before so it didn't even occur to me to look... then I discovered it after the whole system was assembled and neatly put away, with the slot hidden down there somewhere between three thousand other pieces of hardware....
The whole thing seems like a bit of a pain too -- gotta run little wires out of it through the motherboard and everything -- so I decided to just leave it alone and plug in a USB adapter instead. Live and learn I guess. :/
I guess with these ITX boards, they "include" wireless but actually make you install a PCI card to do it? I'd never seen that before so it didn't even occur to me to look... then I discovered it after the whole system was assembled and neatly put away, with the slot hidden down there somewhere between three thousand other pieces of hardware....
The whole thing seems like a bit of a pain too -- gotta run little wires out of it through the motherboard and everything -- so I decided to just leave it alone and plug in a USB adapter instead. Live and learn I guess. :/
Hi again
I sent off the list to cpl to see if they can build it for me. They said a few of their items were out of stock and quoted me this instead. How does it compare? Is it much worse? Should I grab it?
Overall it looks fine and is mostly the same. How much does it cost with taxes included? I would be wary about a few things, though..
I'm not sure if the guy you talked to made a mistake or not, but the SSD he recommended you is the much more expensive M.2 type Samsung 850 Evo SSD. You want the regular 2.5" model, not the M.2 model which needs a special connector and is incompatible with the low cost motherboard I recommended you.
Also, he quoted you the MSI R9 270 for $215 instead of the R9 270X for $219 that I recommended. For your needs the R9 270 is still an alright graphics card, but $215 is high. The R9 270X is the better performing sibling of the R9 270 and that means the R9 270 should cost less. You can see here that Australian prices for the R9 270 start around $175 and the R9 270X starts at around $200. It's up to you which one you want to get, but $215 for the R9 270 seems somewhat expensive. Looking at CPL's prices for the R9 270 and 270X, they're kind of high.
Quote
Member
Since i'm waiting on Intel to send me my 4790k, I've been buying parts for my new computer as they go on sale between then.
Today I picked up the Samsung 500gb EVO and EVGA GeForce GTX 970 SSC ACX 2.0+, and the other day the Samsung 1440p 32" S32D850T Monitor.
I'm still very undecided on mITX vs mATX, which then I can pick my case. I want it to be sleek, small, quiet and low temps but I always have to compromise something.
Today I picked up the Samsung 500gb EVO and EVGA GeForce GTX 970 SSC ACX 2.0+, and the other day the Samsung 1440p 32" S32D850T Monitor.
I'm still very undecided on mITX vs mATX, which then I can pick my case. I want it to be sleek, small, quiet and low temps but I always have to compromise something.
I'm still having this infuriating cold boot problem. So far here are the symptoms. On first cold boot, I always have to turn it off and and on once to get the thing to work.
1) Only on first boot of the day after 8+ hours off. Does not occur when I try to simulate cold boot by leaving it unplugged for 30 minutes or so.
2) Lights and fans come on. HDD light also comes on. No power light
So far, to fix it I've tried
1) Updating the BIOS
2) Reseating all plugs. Switching outlets
3) Setting XMP on.
I've also tested the memory and confirmed it was good. My PSU was good in my last machine. I did notice that the BIOS was setting my 4690k to 1.014v as a default, which seemed low but I've seen people online running lower no issues. Do you guys think it's the PSU or is it perhaps the MOBO and I should try and RMA this Z97-E to ASUS? Could it be something else I'm missing? I could just live with it, but I kind of want to solve the issue now to stop it getting worse. PC works perfectly besides this with no instability I have noticed.
1) Only on first boot of the day after 8+ hours off. Does not occur when I try to simulate cold boot by leaving it unplugged for 30 minutes or so.
2) Lights and fans come on. HDD light also comes on. No power light
So far, to fix it I've tried
1) Updating the BIOS
2) Reseating all plugs. Switching outlets
3) Setting XMP on.
I've also tested the memory and confirmed it was good. My PSU was good in my last machine. I did notice that the BIOS was setting my 4690k to 1.014v as a default, which seemed low but I've seen people online running lower no issues. Do you guys think it's the PSU or is it perhaps the MOBO and I should try and RMA this Z97-E to ASUS? Could it be something else I'm missing? I could just live with it, but I kind of want to solve the issue now to stop it getting worse. PC works perfectly besides this with no instability I have noticed.
Hows S32D850T Monitor? Been debating if I should grab that one or BenQ BL3200PT.
I know theirs a few reports saying the Samsung monitor has white flickering, It's more obvious during gaming. Not sure if that's true or not.
I'm in the same boat. However, I started planning long before ordering the processor and, when all is said and done, my build will have been coordinated over the course of nearly 3 months. I can't complain because in choosing a few component options in advance and then pouncing on deals as they become available I've literally saved myself hundreds of dollars. (super cool that you can see pricing history on PCPP to ensure that you're getting everything while they're at rock bottom) What was originally an $800+ build that I was willing to extend to $1000 is currently tracking to finish sub-$600. (doesn't include a monitor since I already had a 1080p Asus that has been fine)
Anyway, I too had to consider form factor. I wanted to get a full sized ATX board since it allows for more options and removes compromises, but as an apartment dweller there just wasn't a good way to integrate it into my current living situation. For where I wanted to place the tower I needed it to be under 16" tall. (accounts for sufficient airflow) There's simply nothing out there unless I was willing to go the HTPC route (this Silverstone case looks lovely) but that would require some heavy reconfiguration of my home theater and it was far from the most convenient option.
I swung in the opposite direction and gravitated toward an mITX build. The Thermaltake Core V1 in particular piqued my interest since its footprint is ultra-compact, it can house most full-sized components, and it allows for great airflow. My concerns with going this route, however, were that I really only had one mobo option that I felt comfortable going with after doing a ton of research, (the Asus Z97I-Plus) I would be limited to 16gb RAM, (not important now, but who knows what the future may hold and I've read a lot of debate/speculation on the subject) CPU cooler clearance is limited meaning that I would have to go with a less than ideal option, and the maximum graphics card length is limited stunting my options for future upgrades. The Fractal Node 304 alleviates some of these issues, but I honestly dislike the aesthetics of that case and airflow doesn't appear to be anything special with it.
I finally landed on mATX and purchased a Cooler Master N200 case when it was on sale for $35. I obviously haven't built with it yet, but I did already unbox it to inspect for damage and I'm more than pleased with the build quality and it ticks all the boxes I was looking for. It's just shy of 15" tall, (and shorter than that if you remove the feet) houses pretty much anything you want to throw in it, (supports the Gigabyte Windforce cards no problem and allows for bulky CPU coolers like the Hyper 212 Evo) and has great airflow options with its front mesh design. (I'm planning to add the optional second fan) In addition, mATX can allow for SLI/Crossfire if that's your thing and the boards can support 32GB RAM. (again, probably not important for gaming but I'd rather have the option) It also gave me a good deal of mobo options that I personally deemed worth considering and I ended up getting a great price on this Gigabyte. The only compromise that I feel like I made was getting a mobo that doesn't support M.2 thus limiting that as a future upgrade option, but that wasn't high priority to me.
As a first time builder, this process has been far from easy -- but it's already been fun and the knowledge gained has been incredibly rewarding. Just keep reading and you're sure to find something that will mitigate (eliminate?) compromise.
Zeyphersan
Banned
What should I look for in a power supply? Gold rating, bronze rating? Wattage seems easy enough to determine, but it's always the surrounding stuff I don't know what to do with or how much to spend
All depends on what you want to spend, and what features you want i.e. modularity, passive fan mode.
If you can decide on the budget it'll be very easy to suggest a good unit for whatever your system is.
Zeyphersan
Banned
To be honest, I'm not building my system until the end of the year, and I don't know how much the PSU market changes in ~6 months. I was just curious about all the things that go into a PSU decision besides pure wattage. I'll be putting an i7 Skylake in it (5790K?) and a 980Ti. I think a 600W would do me well, right? Also fully modular is a must
Edit: An unrelated question I just thought of: I know Skylake will support DDR3 as well as DDR4. Any reason to get DDR4? The speeds are pretty high but the CAS latency seems awful (lowest I've seen is 14) is that a big deal?
Mad Season
Banned
Need some help, Gaf...
Issue #1: At times, my 2nd SSD will not be recognizable in the BIOS or in Windows. If I reboot or unplug the cable from the motherboard and plug it back in and boot up, it will become visible again. The port I am connecting to is a SATA 6 (the 2nd SATA 6 port)
Issue #2: When the SSD is recognized and I use Samsung magician to verify some settings, at times it will say my drive is not hooked up to a SATA 6 port and is only using SATA 3 settings and is not running at optimal performance. If I unplug the SATA cable and plug it back in, that error goes away but sometimes comes back.
SSD: 850 EVO
What I've tried
Question:
Is it most likely a faulty SSD or a faulty SATA 6 port on my motherboard?
Motherboard: ASUS Maximus GENE Z IV
Issue #1: At times, my 2nd SSD will not be recognizable in the BIOS or in Windows. If I reboot or unplug the cable from the motherboard and plug it back in and boot up, it will become visible again. The port I am connecting to is a SATA 6 (the 2nd SATA 6 port)
Issue #2: When the SSD is recognized and I use Samsung magician to verify some settings, at times it will say my drive is not hooked up to a SATA 6 port and is only using SATA 3 settings and is not running at optimal performance. If I unplug the SATA cable and plug it back in, that error goes away but sometimes comes back.
SSD: 850 EVO
What I've tried
- SSD connected directly to SATA 6 slow on MB
- SSD connected with CD-ROM
- Replaced Sata 6 cable
- Updated MB drivers and BIOS.
- There is no firmware for the 850 EVO
Question:
Is it most likely a faulty SSD or a faulty SATA 6 port on my motherboard?
Motherboard: ASUS Maximus GENE Z IV
Yoda
Member
http://wccftech.com/evga-geforce-gtx-980-ti-799-msrp-pricing/#ixzz3bWM0VrsC
980ti pricing for anyone holding out:
EDIT: Apparently they came to their senses! $649
980ti pricing for anyone holding out:
EDIT: Apparently they came to their senses! $649
Haloid1177
Banned
They updated the article to say $649.
Hoping to get some feedback on this build.
Your Current Specs:
Q6600, 6GB DDR2, GTX 460, the original Antec Sonata, Antec TruePower New 750W Blue PSU, Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3Gb/s, and some Kingston HyperX crap that disconnects too much for me to install my OS on.
Budget: Canada. Aiming for roughly $1100 before tax. Avoiding MIR. Could go up to $1200 if it would really help
Main Use: Gaming: 5, General Usage: 5, Streaming: 3, Emulation (PS2/Wii/Linux VM): 2, Video Editing: 1
Monitor Resolution: 1920 * 1080. Not planning on a new monitor.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: DOTA2/Source games, Witcher 3, generally any modern game at 60fps on high or max settings.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Internal storage and the TruePower New 750W if it's suitable for the new build
When will you build?: Soon. I'd like to make use of the Witcher / Arkham Knight promotion.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes.
This is what I picked based on reading about other builds. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Not sure if my old PSU is fine but it seems okay for a single card setup? I am favouring the GTX970 over the R290 due to lower heat output / power consumption, access to PhysX gimmicks, and the double game promo.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($38.95 @ DirectCanada)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Cooling MX-2 4g Thermal Paste (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($102.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: Team Dark 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($55.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Crucial MX200 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($129.98 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card ($384.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Antec TruePower New 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (32/64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1122.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-29 11:09 EDT-0400
Your Current Specs:
Q6600, 6GB DDR2, GTX 460, the original Antec Sonata, Antec TruePower New 750W Blue PSU, Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3Gb/s, and some Kingston HyperX crap that disconnects too much for me to install my OS on.
Budget: Canada. Aiming for roughly $1100 before tax. Avoiding MIR. Could go up to $1200 if it would really help
Main Use: Gaming: 5, General Usage: 5, Streaming: 3, Emulation (PS2/Wii/Linux VM): 2, Video Editing: 1
Monitor Resolution: 1920 * 1080. Not planning on a new monitor.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: DOTA2/Source games, Witcher 3, generally any modern game at 60fps on high or max settings.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Internal storage and the TruePower New 750W if it's suitable for the new build
When will you build?: Soon. I'd like to make use of the Witcher / Arkham Knight promotion.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes.
This is what I picked based on reading about other builds. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Not sure if my old PSU is fine but it seems okay for a single card setup? I am favouring the GTX970 over the R290 due to lower heat output / power consumption, access to PhysX gimmicks, and the double game promo.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($38.95 @ DirectCanada)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Cooling MX-2 4g Thermal Paste (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($102.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: Team Dark 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($55.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Crucial MX200 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($129.98 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card ($384.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Antec TruePower New 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (32/64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1122.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-29 11:09 EDT-0400
LostMyNarbles
Member
Starting to get depressed. The second case arrived from Amazon even more damaged than my first choice.
I can see all my parts sitting on the shelf taunting me..
I can see all my parts sitting on the shelf taunting me..
Chairman Yang
if he talks about books, you better damn well listen
I need a new video card...in the $200-300 CDN range, preferably. If I wait a week or so, will there be some better deals due to these new video card announcements?
Have you tried a different port?
100% certain it's the PSU? Not coming from your speakers and/or headphones?
Solid, though I might hold out for the 980 Ti and 390/390X to be released.
Do you have a Frys or Microcenter nearby?
Mad Season
Banned
The only other SATA 6 port I have, my main SSD is using
Coming from the PSU for sure. It's light but audible.
It's not my PSU, I'm just testing it.
I'd swap ports. If your other SSD starts having problems and the new one does not, then you know it's the port. If the new SSD continues to have problems, then you know it's the SSD.
Definitely a bit of coil whine then. Try a different outlet as well as a different cord that plugs into the back of the PSU.
GatticusFinch
Member
Buzzing or whining? Could be a loose rivet or screw hitting against the PSU housing or your case if it is buzzing. Could be normal capacitor noise, or could be "coil whine," which could also be normal.
Here's a decent explanation of PSU noise: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2013/september/coil-whine
Alright I'll try another power cord, I forgot an important detail : the PSU is plugged to an UPS (Eaton Ellipse Pro 1200).
Buzzing, not whining. The sound is not high pitched at all, it's a light "zzzzz" sound. If I don't do anything I hear nothing but as soon as I move the mouse I can hear this sound.
Idle/load (gaming benches, for some reason OCCT refuses to work) does not seem to make any difference.
In comparison my Corsair AX760 is silent most of the time but does emit a buzzing sound from time to time.
Mad Season
Banned
Asus support said to try the following. thoughts?
I asked if it was a common issue and she said yes...
GatticusFinch
Member
Everything you have said points to a electrical interference issue, except that it is coming from the PSU. If it is truly coming from the PSU, and it only happens when you move the mouse, I have no clue. Everything else points to EMI noise.
ReadingRambo
Member
So a $649 980ti would pretty much necessitate a $449 price point for the 980 yeah?
zerokoolpsx
Member
980ti is going for $799.
http://wccftech.com/evga-geforce-gtx-980-ti-799-msrp-pricing/
http://wccftech.com/evga-geforce-gtx-980-ti-799-msrp-pricing/
Is it dangerous for my PC, is it the sign of a faulty PSU ?
A different power cord, plugging it to a different outlet didn't solve anything it seems but the unit is fully functional.
CreepingFear
Member
I usually go for the EVGA Classified version that's $30-50 more than the standard version. At say $850, I'm thinking I might as well just go with a Titan X for the extra VRAM.
What if it's the mouse causing it? Could that happen?
ReadingRambo
Member
Read the update at the top of the article you posted.
dolabla
Member
Gaf, my parents are having problems with their computer and I think it may be the power supply. The computer is just locking up.
The power supply currently in it is a little underpowered from the original power supply that came with it (the one that came with it was a 460 watt). It's only been in there for a few months. The computer is a Dell Studio XPS 7100.
What I want to know is if this PSU would be be fine to use? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPHK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
If not, can you show me one that would work?
The power supply currently in it is a little underpowered from the original power supply that came with it (the one that came with it was a 460 watt). It's only been in there for a few months. The computer is a Dell Studio XPS 7100.
What I want to know is if this PSU would be be fine to use? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPHK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
If not, can you show me one that would work?
Nah, it's not really an issue outside of the noise that it makes. CM would RMA it based on that though.
They updated the article saying the price may be closer to $649, which may also indicate a price drop for the GTX 980.
GatticusFinch
Member
I'm not sure that's what it is, because if the sound is just electrical interference, it isn't coming from your PSU.
I'd guess it's just normal PSU noise if that's where it is coming from. The only thing that suggests otherwise to me is that it only happens when you move the mouse, which is a typical interference/audio shielding issue.
GatticusFinch
Member
If the noise is coming from speakers (or, the usual culprit, the front headphone jack) the thing you are doing that you perceive as "causing" the noise (moving the mouse) is just the symptom. For example, I have a bluetooth adapter on a work computer. If that is plugged in at the front USB and I have headphones in the front jack, it interferes with it and I hear a buzzing noise whenever I move the mouse.
I don't know the whole science behind it, but my understanding is you're hearing the normally inaudible electrical noise through the speaker. Nothing is broken, per se, other than just having bad audio shielding.
You know those big tubes you see near the ends of certain cables surrounding the cable? Those are ferrite beads designed to prevent interference.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead
Anyone here overclocked their 980? I'm wondering what values to push mine up to.
With a 200 boost to core and 400 to memory, I get mostly 60FPS on all ultra (minus shadows and no hairworks) on TW3, but I was wondering if I'm being conservative.
Temps don't go above 74 ever at stock fan speeds. Is there a ratio for core/memory clock that I should be keeping too? Literally no idea what I'm doing other than monitoring temps and checking for artifacts. No hard crashes either so far outside of the normal TW3 related ones.
With a 200 boost to core and 400 to memory, I get mostly 60FPS on all ultra (minus shadows and no hairworks) on TW3, but I was wondering if I'm being conservative.
Temps don't go above 74 ever at stock fan speeds. Is there a ratio for core/memory clock that I should be keeping too? Literally no idea what I'm doing other than monitoring temps and checking for artifacts. No hard crashes either so far outside of the normal TW3 related ones.
GAF, I need your input on something.
I've been meaning to put together a new system, but some unforeseen circumstances crippled my budget. All in all, I'll have ~700 € left, tops.
Thanks to a less than stellar Euro and generally high hardware prices in Germany at this time, even a barebones assembly of my intended configuration is outta the window. If I went down my original intended route, I'd sit before impossible compromises, so I'm thinking of putting together a shell:
Mobo: ASRock H97 Pro4
CPU: i5-4460 FC-LGA4
RAM: G.Skill DIMM 8 GB DDR3-1600, F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL, Ripjaws
SSD: MZ-75E250B 250 GB SATA 600 850 EVO Basic
Tower: SilverStone RV03B-WA
The whole setup would run me 577 €. I'd cannibalize my old PSU, GPU, disc drives and HDDs for storage. The PSU at least is a good Enermax which I plunked down 300 € for at an earlier time, 750 watts so total overkill, but beats getting a new one when cash is short. Some things I wanted on top like a non-stock CPU cooler and dedicated souncard will be
put on hold too.
I might be able to get my hands on a Win 8 license for free from a colleague from university, they hand out licenses like candy. Otherwise it's about another 100 on top.
I'm honestly a bit stumped. On one hand, it'd work at least. On the downside, the Mobo isn't what I intended for, so later on I couldn't get as much mileage out of it as I'd like. RAM clocks only go up to 1600 there. Losing out on a new GPU hurts bad, but it just isn't on the table at this time. Upgrades there are at least easy, no worry about Mobo incompability.
Mainly, I do a lot of 3D graphics, where I can use both CPU and GPU in tandem - the latter especially can be utilized well, but a modern i5 will pack plenty juice for the time being. I *want* to move focus onto realtime computing via UE4, which is why the loss of a new GPU sucks big time. However, overall decent CPU power is the deciding factor, so out of all
things I could sacrifice, this isn't it - no i3 suggestions please.
I don't see myself upgrading the system at all, given the circumstance, rather than just keeping it as a renderstation in the future and building another PC from scratch once money allows - to that end, I'm all open to not futureproofing it too much. The tower and SSD I could yet again cannibalize in the future, though I'd get a new Mobo and CPU then anyway.
So! What do you suggest, guys? Go for it? Or maybe consider AMD for the CPU, I could get plenty of cores for little cash, always goes well with my programs which are heavily optimized for multiple cores. On that front, I'd personally hesitate, since Intels just outstrip them -_- .
I've been meaning to put together a new system, but some unforeseen circumstances crippled my budget. All in all, I'll have ~700 € left, tops.
Thanks to a less than stellar Euro and generally high hardware prices in Germany at this time, even a barebones assembly of my intended configuration is outta the window. If I went down my original intended route, I'd sit before impossible compromises, so I'm thinking of putting together a shell:
Mobo: ASRock H97 Pro4
CPU: i5-4460 FC-LGA4
RAM: G.Skill DIMM 8 GB DDR3-1600, F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL, Ripjaws
SSD: MZ-75E250B 250 GB SATA 600 850 EVO Basic
Tower: SilverStone RV03B-WA
The whole setup would run me 577 €. I'd cannibalize my old PSU, GPU, disc drives and HDDs for storage. The PSU at least is a good Enermax which I plunked down 300 € for at an earlier time, 750 watts so total overkill, but beats getting a new one when cash is short. Some things I wanted on top like a non-stock CPU cooler and dedicated souncard will be
put on hold too.
I might be able to get my hands on a Win 8 license for free from a colleague from university, they hand out licenses like candy. Otherwise it's about another 100 on top.
I'm honestly a bit stumped. On one hand, it'd work at least. On the downside, the Mobo isn't what I intended for, so later on I couldn't get as much mileage out of it as I'd like. RAM clocks only go up to 1600 there. Losing out on a new GPU hurts bad, but it just isn't on the table at this time. Upgrades there are at least easy, no worry about Mobo incompability.
Mainly, I do a lot of 3D graphics, where I can use both CPU and GPU in tandem - the latter especially can be utilized well, but a modern i5 will pack plenty juice for the time being. I *want* to move focus onto realtime computing via UE4, which is why the loss of a new GPU sucks big time. However, overall decent CPU power is the deciding factor, so out of all
things I could sacrifice, this isn't it - no i3 suggestions please.
I don't see myself upgrading the system at all, given the circumstance, rather than just keeping it as a renderstation in the future and building another PC from scratch once money allows - to that end, I'm all open to not futureproofing it too much. The tower and SSD I could yet again cannibalize in the future, though I'd get a new Mobo and CPU then anyway.
So! What do you suggest, guys? Go for it? Or maybe consider AMD for the CPU, I could get plenty of cores for little cash, always goes well with my programs which are heavily optimized for multiple cores. On that front, I'd personally hesitate, since Intels just outstrip them -_- .
On that note! I do get a teeny bit of interference in my headphones on my new motherboard, can I buy an adapter to plug in to shield them? It's so low that pretty much any kind of sound cancels it out so it's not a huge problem. It's a constant tiny little electrical whirl so pretty much impossible to hear unless you're listening to it.
Nothing will get worse than my Dad's old computer/speakers though. That thing picked up radio signals from Russia :lol.
Thanks to you both. It's not my PSU so I won't take the decision to RMA it alone, but so far (24h of testing) it has not shown any sign of weakness. Just this noise, for now I feel good about returning it back to him.
Fourth Storm
Member
Quoting since it's been a couple days. Would really appreciate if anyone has experience w/ these monitors or any other in the price bracket. It seems like each of these has its caveats, but if I'm gonna spring for the GTX 970 and get the 2 free games, I can't afford much more right now.
Nearly any ATX power supply will work in that case. However, PSU problems rarely result in lockups -- random BSODs, reboots, and drop-outs are more common.
If your motherboard supports it, you can use HWmonitor to check the voltages on each of the rails. That will tell you if your PSU is in good condition.
These are locked and cannot be overclocked!! Choose cpus that have a "k" at the end. The i3's unfortunately don't come in that variant.
ReadingRambo
Member
Just ordered.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($235.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97N-Gaming 5 Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($112.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($97.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 250D Mini ITX Tower Case ($80.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($53.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($264.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($264.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1594.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-29 16:14 EDT-0400
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($235.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97N-Gaming 5 Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($112.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($97.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 250D Mini ITX Tower Case ($80.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($53.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($264.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($264.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1594.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-29 16:14 EDT-0400
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