opticalmace
Member
Bumpage for my bottleneck concern.
Just OC it to 4Ghz+ and you're set.
Bumpage for my bottleneck concern.
OK, how does this look?
Also I have no plans to OC the CPU, so stock cooler OK? And I should have all the hookups needed for both HDs?
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Hi againIf you're willing to build it yourself, you can get a much stronger PC for a similar price, Windows OS included. Therefore it's not a good deal at all.
Well.. if gaming isn't important, then it would be possible to spec a suitable office and light gaming PC for around $1000 AUD.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i3-4350 3.6GHz Dual-Core Processor ($159.00 @ CPL Online)
Motherboard: ASRock H81M-HDS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($69.00 @ CPL Online)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($78.00 @ IJK)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($135.00 @ Umart)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.00 @ IJK)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 270X 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($219.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Case: Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($44.00 @ Umart)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($95.00 @ Scorptec)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($125.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Total: $993.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-27 20:45 AEST+1000
The PC could be cheaper still if you don't mind dropping the SSD or going with a weaker graphics card. Can you give us an example of what games he might be playing? I think the R9 270X should be capable of handling most games quite well, even the latest games at medium settings or so.
You could also cut around $100 AUD off that price if you don't mind buying a Windows license key from Reddit. Here's my standard blurb about buying a Windows key from there:
Windows 7/8.1 licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for $25 AUD or less. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are not approved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may refuse to give you support and/or deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it. That's not very likely, usually it only happens if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months.
Edit: revised my post for clarity and readability.
Hi again
I sent off the list to cpl to see if they can build it for me. They said a few of their items were out of stock and quoted me this instead. How does it compare? Is it much worse? Should I grab it?
Since i'm waiting on Intel to send me my 4790k, I've been buying parts for my new computer as they go on sale between then.
Today I picked up the Samsung 500gb EVO and EVGA GeForce GTX 970 SSC ACX 2.0+, and the other day the Samsung 1440p 32" S32D850T Monitor.
I'm still very undecided on mITX vs mATX, which then I can pick my case. I want it to be sleek, small, quiet and low temps but I always have to compromise something.
Since i'm waiting on Intel to send me my 4790k, I've been buying parts for my new computer as they go on sale between then.
Today I picked up the Samsung 500gb EVO and EVGA GeForce GTX 970 SSC ACX 2.0+, and the other day the Samsung 1440p 32" S32D850T Monitor.
I'm still very undecided on mITX vs mATX, which then I can pick my case. I want it to be sleek, small, quiet and low temps but I always have to compromise something.
What should I look for in a power supply? Gold rating, bronze rating? Wattage seems easy enough to determine, but it's always the surrounding stuff I don't know what to do with or how much to spend
All depends on what you want to spend, and what features you want i.e. modularity, passive fan mode.
If you can decide on the budget it'll be very easy to suggest a good unit for whatever your system is.
http://wccftech.com/evga-geforce-gtx-980-ti-799-msrp-pricing/#ixzz3bWM0VrsC
980ti pricing for anyone holding out:
$799.99 (give or take depending on the model).
Have you tried a different port?Need some help, Gaf...
Issue #1: At times, my 2nd SSD will not be recognizable in the BIOS or in Windows. If I reboot or unplug the cable from the motherboard and plug it back in and boot up, it will become visible again. The port I am connecting to is a SATA 6 (the 2nd SATA 6 port)
Issue #2: When the SSD is recognized and I use Samsung magician to verify some settings, at times it will say my drive is not hooked up to a SATA 6 port and is only using SATA 3 settings and is not running at optimal performance. If I unplug the SATA cable and plug it back in, that error goes away but sometimes comes back.
SSD: 850 EVO
What I've tried
- SSD connected directly to SATA 6 slow on MB
- SSD connected with CD-ROM
- Replaced Sata 6 cable
- Updated MB drivers and BIOS.
- There is no firmware for the 850 EVO
Question:
Is it most likely a faulty SSD or a faulty SATA 6 port on my motherboard?
Motherboard: ASUS Maximus GENE Z IV
100% certain it's the PSU? Not coming from your speakers and/or headphones?Is the Cooler Master V850 supposed to exhibit a slight "buzz" sound even when idle ? Each time I moved my mouse I could ear this buzz from the PSU.
Strange. I don't know what to do.
Solid, though I might hold out for the 980 Ti and 390/390X to be released.Hoping to get some feedback on this build.
Your Current Specs:
Q6600, 6GB DDR2, GTX 460, the original Antec Sonata, Antec TruePower New 750W Blue PSU, Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3Gb/s, and some Kingston HyperX crap that disconnects too much for me to install my OS on.
Budget: Canada. Aiming for roughly $1100 before tax. Avoiding MIR. Could go up to $1200 if it would really help
Main Use: Gaming: 5, General Usage: 5, Streaming: 3, Emulation (PS2/Wii/Linux VM): 2, Video Editing: 1
Monitor Resolution: 1920 * 1080. Not planning on a new monitor.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: DOTA2/Source games, Witcher 3, generally any modern game at 60fps on high or max settings.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Internal storage and the TruePower New 750W if it's suitable for the new build
When will you build?: Soon. I'd like to make use of the Witcher / Arkham Knight promotion.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes.
This is what I picked based on reading about other builds. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Not sure if my old PSU is fine but it seems okay for a single card setup? I am favouring the GTX970 over the R290 due to lower heat output / power consumption, access to PhysX gimmicks, and the double game promo.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($38.95 @ DirectCanada)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Cooling MX-2 4g Thermal Paste (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($102.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: Team Dark 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($55.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Crucial MX200 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($129.98 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card ($384.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Antec TruePower New 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (32/64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1122.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-29 11:09 EDT-0400
Do you have a Frys or Microcenter nearby?Starting to get depressed. The second case arrived from Amazon even more damaged than my first choice.
I can see all my parts sitting on the shelf taunting me..
Have you tried a different port?
100% certain it's the PSU? Not coming from your speakers and/or headphones?
I'd swap ports. If your other SSD starts having problems and the new one does not, then you know it's the port. If the new SSD continues to have problems, then you know it's the SSD.The only other SATA 6 port I have, my main SSD is using
Definitely a bit of coil whine then. Try a different outlet as well as a different cord that plugs into the back of the PSU.Coming from the PSU for sure. It's light but audible.
It's not my PSU, I'm just testing it.
Coming from the PSU for sure. It's light but audible.
It's not my PSU, I'm just testing it.
I'd swap ports. If your other SSD starts having problems and the new one does not, then you know it's the port. If the new SSD continues to have problems, then you know it's the SSD.
Definitely a bit of coil whine then. Try a different outlet as well as a different cord that plugs into the back of the PSU.
Buzzing, not whining. The sound is not high pitched at all, it's a light "zzzzz" sound. If I don't do anything I hear nothing but as soon as I move the mouse I can hear this sound.Buzzing or whining? Could be a loose rivet or screw hitting against the PSU housing or your case if it is buzzing. Could be normal capacitor noise, or could be "coil whine," which could also be normal.
Here's a decent explanation of PSU noise: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/20...ber/coil-whine
Asus support said to try the following. thoughts?I'd swap ports. If your other SSD starts having problems and the new one does not, then you know it's the port. If the new SSD continues to have problems, then you know it's the SSD.
.
okay try clearing the cmos on the board
Power down the board, remove the battery and go to the CLRTC jumper there should be 3 pins the caps should be on 1 and 2 move the caps over to 2-3 for a few minutes then move them back to 1-2 replace battery power the board back up.
Alright I'll try another power cord, I forgot an important detail : the PSU is plugged to an UPS (Eaton Ellipse Pro 1200).
Buzzing, not whining. The sound is not high pitched at all, it's a light "zzzzz" sound. If I don't do anything I hear nothing but as soon as I move the mouse I can hear this sound.
Idle/load (gaming benches, for some reason OCCT refuses to work) does not seem to make any difference.
In comparison my Corsair AX760 is silent most of the time but does emit a buzzing sound from time to time.
Everything you have said points to a electrical interference issue, except that it is coming from the PSU. If it is truly coming from the PSU, and it only happens when you move the mouse, I have no clue. Everything else points to EMI noise.
980ti is going for $799.
http://wccftech.com/evga-geforce-gtx-980-ti-799-msrp-pricing/
What if it's the mouse causing it? Could that happen?Everything you have said points to a electrical interference issue, except that it is coming from the PSU. If it is truly coming from the PSU, and it only happens when you move the mouse, I have no clue. Everything else points to EMI noise.
980ti is going for $799.
http://wccftech.com/evga-geforce-gtx-980-ti-799-msrp-pricing/
Nah, it's not really an issue outside of the noise that it makes. CM would RMA it based on that though.Is it dangerous for my PC, is it the sign of a faulty PSU ?
A different power cord, plugging it to a different outlet didn't solve anything it seems but the unit is fully functional.
980ti is going for $799.
http://wccftech.com/evga-geforce-gtx-980-ti-799-msrp-pricing/
Update: HWBattle is claiming that the actual MSRP for the GTX 980 Ti is around $649 US. If true, this could be a serious deal breaker since the site also reports that the card will be bundled with Witcher 3 and Batman Akrham Knight. There’s also mentioned in the piece by the source that GeForce GTX 980 could be getting a price cut after 980 Ti launches.
Read more: http://wccftech.com/evga-geforce-gtx-980-ti-799-msrp-pricing/#ixzz3bY70xCpW
Is it dangerous for my PC, is it the sign of a faulty PSU ?
A different power cord, plugging it to a different outlet didn't solve anything it seems but the unit is fully functional.
What if it's the mouse causing it? Could that happen?
On that note! I do get a teeny bit of interference in my headphones on my new motherboard, can I buy an adapter to plug in to shield them? It's so low that pretty much any kind of sound cancels it out so it's not a huge problem. It's a constant tiny little electrical whirl so pretty much impossible to hear unless you're listening to it.If the noise is coming from speakers (or, the usual culprit, the front headphone jack) the thing you are doing that you perceive as "causing" the noise (moving the mouse) is just the symptom. For example, I have a bluetooth adapter on a work computer. If that is plugged in at the front USB and I have headphones in the front jack, it interferes with it and I hear a buzzing noise whenever I move the mouse.
I don't know the whole science behind it, but my understanding is you're hearing the normally inaudible electrical noise through the speaker. Nothing is broken, per se, other than just having bad audio shielding.
You know those big tubes you see near the ends of certain cables surrounding the cable? Those are ferrite beads designed to prevent interference.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead
Nah, it's not really an issue outside of the noise that it makes. CM would RMA it based on that though.
I'm not sure that's what it is, because if the sound is just electrical interference, it isn't coming from your PSU.
I'd guess it's just normal PSU noise if that's where it is coming from. The only thing that suggests otherwise to me is that it only happens when you move the mouse, which is a typical interference/audio shielding issue.
I'm looking for a cheap 1080p monitor. I do intend to game on it. I'm split between these two right now. Any recommendations?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BZNEVQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FE8MKTM/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I'm running over budget, so I can't really afford to spend much more. However, if these monitors are crap I suppose I could scrounge a few more pennies together.
Gaf, my parents are having problems with their computer and I think it may be the power supply. The computer is just locking up.
The power supply currently in it is a little underpowered from the original power supply that came with it (the one that came with it was a 460 watt). It's only been in there for a few months. The computer is a Dell Studio XPS 7100.
What I want to know is if this PSU would be be fine to use? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPHK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
If not, can you show me one that would work?
...........Will you be overclocking?: Yes
Here's a budget build I put together with a i3:
PCPartPicker part lists/Price Breakdown by merchant
CPU
Intel Core i3-4170 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor
$117.99
.........Or a build with a i5 and 960 as the only difference:
PCPartPicker Part list
Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
.....I just want performance better than what my PS4 can do for now without dropping too much. Any advice appreciated.