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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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Quick question for y'all. I build a while ago without adding a bluetooth card. If i wanted to pick something up to start using bluetooth devices with my PC, namely a Dualshock 4, should I get one of those USB adapters, or look into a card?
 

RGM79

Member
No existing system.

720p is more than fine, solid 30fps is fine.

I've been crusing my local used PC sections but nothing seems to come with anything above an integrated video card.

If you absolutely just want a barebones PC just for New Vegas..

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($64.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-GAMING 3 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($44.45 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Pareema 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($46.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital AV 160GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($18.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 320GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($24.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R7 250 2GB Video Card ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Raidmax ATX-809B (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $313.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-11 02:05 EDT-0400

It's heavy on mail-in rebates, but there's not much that can be done about that. You might be able to bring down the costs if you can find used parts for the case and graphics card. I don't really recommend buying a used processor and motherboard unless you find a particularly good deal and the seller can demonstrate that it's in working condition, and I'd be wary of used power supplies unless it's a good brand and model..
Just pulled the trigger on this. Very scary, most money I've dropped in one go in a very long time!

Thanks so very much for your help again RGM79, and everyone else.

Enjoy your new PC!
Quick question for y'all. I build a while ago without adding a bluetooth card. If i wanted to pick something up to start using bluetooth devices with my PC, namely a Dualshock 4, should I get one of those USB adapters, or look into a card?

USB adaptor is the standard. I don't think they make PCI-E cards just for bluetooth anymore, unless you buy one of those PCI-E wifi cards that also happen to include bluetooth capability.

As far as I know you should be able to use any common bluetooth adaptor you can get at a local store, but just so you know, you're probably better off buying a newer bluetooth 4.0 adaptor than getting an older bluetooth 1.x/2.x/3.x model.
 

RGM79

Member
Ello. Long while ago I was about to upgrade my rig, but as usual other crap came up and I had to put it off. Basically, getting ready for VR with most likely the HTC Vive, perhaps the Oculus. Plan is, new base rig with my old 5770 for a little while longer, than get a graphics card closer to the back end of the year when some prices have dropped. Was gungho on a 970 until the memory stuff, 980 still too high priced for me right now, and dont want to rule a Radeon out, they normally require 750w PSU+ so would affect the build. Hopefully will be able to make more sense of GPUs in Q3/4.

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/Pie_and_Beans/saved/RqbfrH
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£178.00 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Deepcool GAMMAXX 400 66.3 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For £0.00)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£95.99 @ Aria PC)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory (£61.28 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For £0.00)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon HD 5570 1GB Video Card (Purchased For £0.00)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (£49.19 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£48.99 @ Amazon UK)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For £0.00)
Total: £433.45
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-10 17:52 BST+0100

Want it to be pretty darn VR ready as I only get a PC upgrade shot once every like 6-7 years and I want in on the beginning of the multiverse something fierce. I also do illustration/animation work. Part picker is already telling me my RAM choice may not be the best so... have at it.
The processor is good, and the Gigabyte Gaming 3 motherboard is a decent choice. However, the Gigabyte Z97X Gaming 5 model (£98) is only £2 more. Both motherboards have the same set of features but the Gigabyte Gaming 5 model comes with some gold-plated connectors, slightly better Nichicon capacitors for the audio chipset, and should be somewhat better suited for overclocking with slightly larger mosfet heatsinks and 8 power phases compared to the Gaming 3's 4 power phases. If you're interested in saving money, you could also consider the MSI Z97 Gaming 3 model (£80). It offers a very competitive feature set for less money, and should be quite close to the Gigabyte Z97X Gaming 3 and 5 models in most respects.

A lot of higher speed RAM will only run at 1.6 or 1.65 volts anyway, it's still compatible. It's alright for the RAM to run at 1.65 volts, all it means is that it'll run a few degrees warmer than normal 1.5 volt RAM modules. That said.. £61 is a high price for 2x4GB. How about this 2x4GB kit of G.Skill 2400MHz RAM for £44?

AMD Graphics cards like the R9 290 don't actually require 750 watts. Those are just overstated "better to be on the safe side" numbers than anything else. Actual power consumption is somewhat under 300 watts for the R9 290 itself, but overclocking can bring that up well past 300 watts. If you don't mind spending up to £20 more on the power supply, you can get a PSU with modular cabling or up to 750 watts. Here's some decent power supplies:
XFX 650 watt gold rated non-modular PSU for £58
XFX 650 watt bronze rated semi-modular PSU for £62
XFX 750 watt gold rated non-modular PSU for £63
EVGA Supernova B2 750 watt bronze rated semi-modular PSU for £65

According to this, you can do a clean install after the upgrade. I'm expecting people to be able to figure out a way to force a clean install without needing to run it as an upgrade first. Microsoft always has their policy about upgrade keys being used for upgrades, but there's always a way around being forced to do upgrade-installs rather than clean installs that people have discovered for Windows Vista, 7, 8, 8.1, etc.
 
According to this, you can do a clean install after the upgrade. I'm expecting people to be able to figure out a way to force a clean install without needing to run it as an upgrade first. Microsoft always has their policy about upgrade keys being used for upgrades, but there's always a way around being forced to do upgrade-installs rather than clean installs that people have discovered for Windows Vista, 7, 8, 8.1, etc.
Uggghhh. Why are they doing this? Smells like licensing protection.
Never did an OS upgrade in my life.
 

Yudoken

Member
I'm not sure if this belongs here but I'm using SLI and it's a pain in the butt with Titanfall which I hoped to be working great with SLI (which it kinda does) but I get weird light flickering all over the map.
Every light source causes weird flickering and it's unplayable with SLI on with the included Nvidia provided profile (which uses the cards well).
In the comments he stated that he could fix this problem by overclocking his ram which I can't do (at least with the ones I have).
The ram is actually the worst part of my rig, those were just some ram I got for really cheap and are different ones but work as intended.
Does new, better ram would solve my sli issues?
I also get similar problems with "The Witcher Enhanced Edition Director's Cut" and "Evolve".

My rig:

Silverstone SG10 (mATX case)
i7 4790k CPU
Asus Maximus Gene IV mainboard
2x KFA 2 GTX 970 extreme oc Black Edition
2x 2gb DDR3 1333 Samsung
1x 4gb DDR3 1333 GEIL
Corsair RM 750W PSU
500GB MX100 SSD 2,5 inch
2TB WD 5200rpm HDD 3,5 inch
1TB Seagate 5200rpm HDD 3,5 inch
 

Jimrpg

Member
How much do cases impact builds? I would want this case but is it too small to be able to put in the parts to achieve 4k gaming with 60pfs+?

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/obsidian-series-350d-windowed-micro-atx-pc-case

I've got this case, it's a great looking case.

Its can fit two graphics cards, fits my GTX 970 G1 gaming which is around 300mm.

Despite being a pretty big case, it can only fit 2 3.5" drives and I think 2 2.5" drives.

Oh and another thing is it fits the CM hyper 212 evo and 212x CPU cooler which is rather tall if you're fine with having an air cooler.
 

OmegaDL50

Member
I currently am using a Radeon HD7950.

My current display is 1080p HDTV.

I am seriously considering picking up either a GTX 970 or 980.

Naturally I'll be running at 1080/60 since I'm limited by display, and I currently cannot afford to upgrade both my display and graphics card to take advantage of resolutions higher then 1920x1080.

So I'm thinking of maybe going the downsample angle.

The thing I understand about downsampling is it's effectively the best form of anti-aliasing. As it's taking a much higher res and pushing at a lower one via the renderer.

This is my question.

Say I had a 1440p monitor, and wanted to run a game at 2560x1440

Is running a PC game at 2560x1440 equally demanding as downsampling from 2560x1440 to 1080p.

I'm asking this in the sense to the GPU it running the game at 1440p either native or downsampled. It's still the same amount of pixels being pushed right?

I basically want to get the experience of running 1440p all of the time, but not needing replacing my current screen until I can afford to at a later date, this is what I want to do.
 

Mystic654

Member
Quick Question: I have a old PC with a AMD Radeon HD 6670 graphics card could it display 1440p via HDMI? Just the Desktop, No games and such.
 

RGM79

Member
Quick Question: I have a old PC with a AMD Radeon HD 6670 graphics card could it display 1440p via HDMI? Just the Desktop, No games and such.

The official specs say that HDMI for that card only supports up to 1920x1200. However, the DVI port can handle 1440p since it goes up to 2560x1600.

I currently am using a Radeon HD7950.

My current display is 1080p HDTV.

I am seriously considering picking up either a GTX 970 or 980.

Naturally I'll be running at 1080/60 since I'm limited by display, and I currently cannot afford to upgrade both my display and graphics card to take advantage of resolutions higher then 1920x1080.

So I'm thinking of maybe going the downsample angle.

The thing I understand about downsampling is it's effectively the best form of anti-aliasing. As it's taking a much higher res and pushing at a lower one via the renderer.

This is my question.

Say I had a 1440p monitor, and wanted to run a game at 2560x1440

Is running a PC game at 2560x1440 equally demanding as downsampling from 2560x1440 to 1080p.

I'm asking this in the sense to the GPU it running the game at 1440p either native or downsampled. It's still the same amount of pixels being pushed right?

I basically want to get the experience of running 1440p all of the time, but not needing replacing my current screen until I can afford to at a later date, this is what I want to do.

I haven't looked at any conclusive performance tests done with DSR, but I think you're right, it's still the same number of pixels being processed. The game being rendered at a higher resolution with DSR still requires the same amount of processing power as if you were playing at that higher resolution. And then the graphics card also has to downscale it back to your monitor's lower actual resolution, which also requires a bit of processing power. But of course when you have DSR enabled, you can turn off other anti-aliasing options like FXAA/MSAA.
 

OmegaDL50

Member
I haven't looked at any conclusive performance tests done with DSR, but I think you're right, it's still the same number of pixels being processed. The game being rendered at a higher resolution with DSR still requires the same amount of processing power as if you were playing at that higher resolution. And then the graphics card also has to downscale it back to your monitor's lower actual resolution, which also requires a bit of processing power. But of course when you have DSR enabled, you can turn off other anti-aliasing options like FXAA/MSAA.

Yeah basically I'll have my PC running in 1440p mode via DSR at all times, and never need to use any software based AA in a game, since the downsampling is a form of AA on it's own.

I can probably manage to even throw in another 8GB of ram into my PC to bump it up to 16GB so that might help with any memory issues as well.

Because right now I think I can only reasonably afford the 970 GTX and I'm fully aware of the 3.5GB ram thing, but if luck turns my way, I can probably squeeze the extra $150 to get the GTX 980 instead.
 

Rebel Leader

THE POWER OF BUTTERSCOTCH BOTTOMS
I have a question, Can I use the Windows that's have on my usb flash drive to get a non-genuine windows? (I used a 1-time windows key)

Because the computer I'm having problems with keeps happening. So I want to make a new computer but not pay for windows again until I know I won't have a problem with it.
 

The_Poet

Banned
If you have a buyer, I'd say do it, unless you're trying to get a little more.

Yeh might go for it, thanks.

Does anyone know of the EVGA step up programme works for stepping up to cards that are already out? The 980tis are hard to get hold of at the moment so I wan thinking of getting a 970 or 980 for now then stepping up later, do they allow that?
 

KingV

Member
Is it possible to get a 120GB SSD ? You can pair it with a normal HDD for storage . It's only like $67.99 now 850 EVO . Your dad will be shocked to see the 15minutes shaved to 15seconds :D

SSD is seriously the god tier upgrade. I'm still amazed at how fast my computer boots. I don't even use sleep mode anymore, there's no point since my PC boots faster than a console.

I wouldn't be surprised to find out that I can be browsing the web faster than my computers from 20 years ago could post.
 
Ducking Logitech and they stupid shit drivers have completely fucked me over.

The mouse is normally super slow before the software loads in on start, has been loke this forever, so I decided to change to onboard memory and change the sensitivity or something.

Except apparently the default onboard memory profile or w/e not only moved as slow as molasses but the left click is disabled too.

So now I CAN'T FUCKING DO ANYTHING, since I can't click so I can't even change the profile settings.

And no, plugging in another mouse doesn't work. It does nothing.

Never buying anything from those fuckers again.
 

RGM79

Member
I have a question, Can I use the Windows that's have on my usb flash drive to get a non-genuine windows? (I used a 1-time windows key)

Because the computer I'm having problems with keeps happening. So I want to make a new computer but not pay for windows again until I know I won't have a problem with it.
It's possible to skip entering the product key for Windows 7 and 8/8.1 installation so you can boot to desktop to see if there's anything wrong. For 7 I think it was possible to simply click next and skip entering a key, while for 8/8.1 you can see the answer for a method to bypass the key entry for the Windows 8/8.1 installer. You can also use these generic KMS keys provided by Microsoft for Windows 8/8.1 to bypass the key entry screen.

What problems are you having? If you do build a new PC, it shouldn't have the same problems as your old PC so there isn't really a need for this.

How long do you intend to run the system for? Windows usually only allows for a 30 day grace period without activation. For Windows 8.1, every couple of hours it'll automatically pop up a fullscreen prompt to activate Windows.

Ducking Logitech and they stupid shit drivers have completely fucked me over.

The mouse is normally super slow before the software loads in on start, has been loke this forever, so I decided to change to onboard memory and change the sensitivity or something.

Except apparently the default onboard memory profile or w/e not only moved as slow as molasses but the left click is disabled too.

So now I CAN'T FUCKING DO ANYTHING, since I can't click so I can't even change the profile settings.

And no, plugging in another mouse doesn't work. It does nothing.

Never buying anything from those fuckers again.
Huh, that doesn't make any sense. Default settings aren't anything like that and other mice wouldn't use the same drivers.

What mouse do you have?
 

Rebel Leader

THE POWER OF BUTTERSCOTCH BOTTOMS
It's possible to skip entering the product key for Windows 7 and 8/8.1 installation so you can boot to desktop to see if there's anything wrong. For 7 I think it was possible to simply click next and skip entering a key, while for 8/8.1 you can see the answer for a method to bypass the key entry for the Windows 8/8.1 installer. You can also use these generic KMS keys provided by Microsoft for Windows 8/8.1 to bypass the key entry screen.

What problems are you having? If you do build a new PC, it shouldn't have the same problems as your old PC so there isn't really a need for this.

How long do you intend to run the system for? Windows usually only allows for a 30 day grace period without activation. For Windows 8.1, every couple of hours it'll automatically pop up a fullscreen prompt to activate Windows

30days qould be perfect

The problem o have is this.
  • I turn computer on, it shuts down
  • It starts up again, 1 beep, shows ufei bios, shuts down
  • starts up agian, 1 beep, loads windows

Note this does not happen all the time. Sometimes it doesn't happen for days, sometimes it happens for days.

It never shuts down while in use

It has been in 3 repair shops none of them have any fucking clue
 
Sorry i forgot to put, the g600.

And it has to be the default drivers because I'm literally never ever touched on board memory stuff.


Naga wouldn't work, neither would some cheepo logitec wirless. Some default Microsoft wired Mouse he saved the day prbably because it popped up some Microsoft Windows drivers thing. I just had to change the onboard settings with it every button was unassigned.

Where are the kouse button settings unassigned by default? Makes zero sense.

On the bright side now I have to wait 30 seconds before the mouse is usable on every startup waiting for Logitech software to load in.

Still pisse tho, was almost late for work cause of it, if the mouse wasn't so great hardware wise and reasonably priced I probably would be a lot more pissed.
 
Yeh might go for it, thanks.

Does anyone know of the EVGA step up programme works for stepping up to cards that are already out? The 980tis are hard to get hold of at the moment so I wan thinking of getting a 970 or 980 for now then stepping up later, do they allow that?

These are the items that are currently available in the step-up program;

http://www.evga.com/support/stepup/

EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti ACX 2.0+ (06G-P4-4991-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 980 ACX 2.0 (04G-P4-2981-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 970 SSC ACX 2.0+ (04G-P4-3975-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 970 FTW+ ACX 2.0+ (04G-P4-3978-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 970 FTW ACX 2.0 (04G-P4-2978-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 970 ACX 2.0 (04G-P4-3973-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 960 SuperSC ACX 2.0+ (02G-P4-2966-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ (04G-P4-3966-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti (02G-P4-3751-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 750 (01G-P4-2751-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 660 Superclocked (02G-P4-2662-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 650 Ti BOOST Superclocked (01G-P4-3656-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 650 (01G-P4-2650-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GT 610 2GB (02G-P3-2619-KR) (PDF)
 
I think I'm almost done with a build, does this look like it will be able to play 4k games at 60fps or is that not a reasonable goal? (Also I'm confused with fans, do I need to buy more than 1 since this case can hold 3-4)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($325.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Maximus VI Gene Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($122.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($70.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($649.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($649.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($156.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) ($87.98 @ OutletPC)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster Zx 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($114.99 @ Micro Center)
Total: $2685.63
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-11 09:26 EDT-0400
 

The_Poet

Banned
These are the items that are currently available in the step-up program;

http://www.evga.com/support/stepup/

EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti ACX 2.0+ (06G-P4-4991-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 980 ACX 2.0 (04G-P4-2981-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 970 SSC ACX 2.0+ (04G-P4-3975-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 970 FTW+ ACX 2.0+ (04G-P4-3978-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 970 FTW ACX 2.0 (04G-P4-2978-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 970 ACX 2.0 (04G-P4-3973-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 960 SuperSC ACX 2.0+ (02G-P4-2966-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ (04G-P4-3966-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti (02G-P4-3751-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 750 (01G-P4-2751-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 660 Superclocked (02G-P4-2662-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 650 Ti BOOST Superclocked (01G-P4-3656-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GTX 650 (01G-P4-2650-KR) (PDF)
EVGA GeForce GT 610 2GB (02G-P3-2619-KR) (PDF)

Right, but does that mean I can buy a 970 now and still step up to a 980ti? or would I have had to purchase the 970 before the 980ti's got released?
 
Right, but does that mean I can buy a 970 now and still step up to a 980ti? or would I have had to purchase the 970 before the 980ti's got released?

If you purchased the card, you have a 30 day window regardless. I would register on EVGA's website and enter your info and receipt. It will tell you if you are eligible to step-up or not. And if you are worried about the warranty if you sell the card, you are able to remove it as well.

Keep in mind however if you are not the original owner, then you can't use the step-up program.

I think I'm almost done with a build, does this look like it will be able to play 4k games at 60fps or is that not a reasonable goal? (Also I'm confused with fans, do I need to buy more than 1 since this case can hold 3-4)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($325.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Maximus VI Gene Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($122.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($70.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($649.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($649.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($156.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) ($87.98 @ OutletPC)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster Zx 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($114.99 @ Micro Center)
Total: $2685.63
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-11 09:26 EDT-0400

Well 1x 980 Ti was knocking on the frontdoor of 60 fps, depending on the game. Two should get you there. Check out of these this Sli GTX 980 Ti benchies;

http://www.maximumpc.com/nvidia-gtx-980-ti-2-way-sli-crushing-performance/

980-ti-sli-bench-grid.png

980-ti-sli-bench-mordor-4k.png

980-ti-sli-bench-mll4k.png

980-ti-sli-bench-fc4-4k.png
 

Impulsor

Member
Ok, so I bought a new PC this week, my old PC was 7 years old and had a very serious bottleneck.

My old CPU is a Phenom II X4 955 and I had a GTX 580. I think the CPU was the bottleneck.

So this is my new PC:

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0Ghz Box
GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB GDDR5
MoBo: MSI Z97- Gaming 5
CPU Fan: Corsair Hydro H75
RAM: Corsair Vengenace Pro Series Red 16GB 2x8192Mb DDR3 (1866Mhz)
HDDs: Samsung 840 250Gb + HDD 1Tb 64Mb cache
Case: Corsair Obsidian 450D
PSU: Thermaltake Toughpower 750w 80+ Gold

I was doubting if I should have waited for X99 price to go lower but if you play the waiting game, you never bite the bullet.

Can you guys give me your opinion? Should I have waited, maybe change anything?

thanks in advance.
 

LilJoka

Member
Ok, so I bought a new PC this week, my old PC was 7 years old and had a very serious bottleneck.

My old CPU is a Phenom II X4 955 and I had a GTX 580. I think the CPU was the bottleneck.

So this is my new PC:

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0Ghz Box
GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB GDDR5
MoBo: MSI Z97- Gaming 5
CPU Fan: Corsair Hydro H75
RAM: Corsair Vengenace Pro Series Red 16GB 2x8192Mb DDR3 (1866Mhz)
HDDs: Samsung 840 250Gb + HDD 1Tb 64Mb cache
Case: Corsair Obsidian 450D
PSU: Thermaltake Toughpower 750w 80+ Gold

I was doubting if I should have waited for X99 price to go lower but if you play the waiting game, you never bite the bullet.

Can you guys give me your opinion? Should I have waited, maybe change anything?

thanks in advance.

Great PC. No point in X99 for gaming, by the time its useful, you can bet the mainstream socket will be faster.
 
When changing the graphic card, what's the best "method"? Uninstall the old card drivers, install the new graphic card, install the new drivers??
Also, do you guys use some software to completely remove old video drivers? I remember there was one, don't know if it's still used
 
Is the Corsair 350D case capable of having liquid cooling with 2 GPUs?

It depends on the size of the radiators, but if I recall correctly there is a space in the front for a 2 x 120mm radiator as well as 2 x 120mm on the top or 1 x 120 or 140mm on the back exhaust. Let us know the config, but Im fairly certain it'd work.

If by chance you mean custom loop, you have to factor in pump and resivour placement, as well as the radiator and routing the tubes. More complicated but I'm sure it could still suffice.

I for one found my new case :)

Mhhhmmm
 
When changing the graphic card, what's the best "method"? Uninstall the old card drivers, install the new graphic card, install the new drivers??
Also, do you guys use some software to completely remove old video drivers? I remember there was one, don't know if it's still used

Yep, remove, reboot, run the cleaner, reboot, install new drivers.
DDU or Download Display Driver Uninstaller is the mos popular and free.

http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html
 
It depends on the size of the radiators, but if I recall correctly there is a space in the front for a 2 x 120mm radiator as well as 2 x 120mm on the top or 1 x 120 or 140mm on the back exhaust. Let us know the config, but Im fairly certain it'd work.

If by chance you mean custom loop, you have to factor in pump and resivour placement, as well as the radiator and routing the tubes. More complicated but I'm sure it could still suffice.

I for one found my new case :)


Mhhhmmm
Thanks for the response, I'm not talking about a custom loop (that seems like too much for my first build).

I am debating the benefits of having a fan versus water cooling system right now.
 

Tweedy

Member
Sorry to repost but still having issues with this...

Hi guys, got a new cpu and mobo yesterday, i7 4790k and msi z97 gaming 3. Now... When i installed it yesterday everything was fine. Tried prime95 and it went to 4.4ghz (like I'd expect) was fine for a good 30 mins till I stopped it.

Today I fired up my PC and ran 3dMarks Fire strike and got 4711. Tanked badly on the physics part. Upon further inspection the CPU part said 800mhz.
Check CPUz again and it said 800mhz

I did a quick Google and most said to turn on the "oc genie" mode and I did that and it's returned to 4.4 and got a much more respectable score. Anyone ever had an issue like this with msi boards? I've done the "reset to defaults" button as well

I did read someone's suggestion of update the bios but I'm only 2 revisions behind and I don't really like updating the bios. But will if needs be.

Thanks in advance :)

Other specs are:
Gtx 970 strix
Coolermaster 650w psu
8gb corsair vengeance RAM.
128 crucial m4
Windows 8.1 64bit

EDIT - Clearing CMOS seems to have helped resolve this issue. Thanks
 

Sullichin

Member
Stupid question.
I got this cheap bluetooth adaptor:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F25Z0FS/?tag=neogaf0e-20

I installed the drivers it came with from their website. It seems to install fine but my PC doesn't recognize that I have BT at all. When I go into Bluetooth settings and try to turn discovery on, I get an error "device not available". I don't think it shows up in Device Manager unless I missed it.

Are there perhaps some generic bluetooth drivers that are more reliable that I should use instead?

I want to use Bluetooth to pair my PS4 controller if it makes a difference.
 
Can I get feedback on this build?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($325.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Maximus VI Gene Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($122.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($70.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($649.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($649.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($156.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.89 @ OutletPC)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster Zx 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($114.99 @ Micro Center)
Total: $2660.66
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-11 11:26 EDT-0400
 

The_Poet

Banned
Can I get feedback on this build?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($325.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Maximus VI Gene Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($122.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($70.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($649.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($649.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($156.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.89 @ OutletPC)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster Zx 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($114.99 @ Micro Center)
Total: $2660.66
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-11 11:26 EDT-0400


Looks good, I would be a little wary of having 2 cards in a micro-atx case for airflow reasons but thats just me
 

SuperHans

Member
I'm wondering what to do with this PC. I was thinking of getting more memory (only 4GB at the moment), an SSD and a gfx card around the 300 euro mark. I'm just waiting to see what AMD will release for the 300 series.

Are CPUs a bottle neck these days? I play mostly console ports and don't use emulators. Will the arrival of DX12 get another 18 months of this PC. I only play at 1080P 60. Will only have around 500 euro to play with.

Mainboard Gigabyte GA-MA790XT-UD4P
Chipset AMD 790X
Processor AMD Phenom II X6 1090T @ 3200MHz
Physical Memory 4096MB (2 x 2048 DDR3-SDRAM )
Video Card AMD Radeon HD 6950 Series 1GB
Hard Disk Western Digital WD1001FALS-00E3A0 ATA Device (1000GB)
Hard Disk Western Digital WD20EARS-00MVWB0 ATA Device (2000GB)
 
I would like to upgrade my current PC to be able to play most Steam indy games, what sort of requirements should be I looking into? Is it enough just to upgrade my video card (which I would like to change anyway because the fan is really noisy)? Any recommendations are appreciated :)

My current setup:

CPU: Intel Core i5 760@2.80Ghz
Motherboard: Gigabyte p55m-ud2 (SATA2 + PCI-X 2.0 only)
HDD: 250GBSSD (1TB mechanical HDD)
RAM: 4GB
GPU: GTS250

Just to be clear, I am not interested in the "big games" that require tons of power such as Witcher 3, Crysis etc.
 
With remove you mean the graphic card? Like run the cleaner without any card installed or with the new one?

If you are switching card types; going from AMD to Nvidia or vice versa;

1. Uninstall drivers, reboot
2. Run Driver Cleaner, shutdown
3. Remove card, power on PC
4. Install new drivers.

If you're staying with the same company, then just uninstall the drivers, reboot, run driver cleaner, reboot, install new drivers.
 
Looks good, I would be a little wary of having 2 cards in a micro-atx case for airflow reasons but thats just me

I want considering getting an bigger case but aesthetically speaking it looks better to me and mid towers seem too build for what my fiancee and I would want.


I'm confused how people change the colors of their fan and gets lights within their case. Any information on how I can do this?
 

Glass

Member
So Witcher 3 is the game which has me finally interested in the inner workings of my PC once again. It was a fresh build for Deus Ex Human Revolution back in 2011, and it'd be great to have some sexy upgrades for the new Deus Ex as well.

Back then I spent a modest budget getting myself an i5 2500k 3.30Ghz and a Gigabyte Z68X mobo with 560 ti SLI's. What would people say is the 2015 equivalent? GPU wise I'm on a 1080p monitor so I'm guessing a 970 is a safe bet, but I don't mind waiting to get some more bang for me buck.
 
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