Yeah, I'm gonna spend the next few hours cleaning it. But I'm not sure if I can find this thing in my PC, it's gonna take up a lot of space.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
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Yeah, I'm gonna spend the next few hours cleaning it. But I'm not sure if I can find this thing in my PC, it's gonna take up a lot of space.
What case do you have? It should fit in most 120mm fan mounts.
I have the older Fractal Define R3, the same basic case as you do. You will be able to mount the radiator in the rear fan mount to the left of the CPU in the same way this person has:
Sutton Dagger
Member
I have a 970 and I've just bought a 4k TV, is the 970 capable of running games in 4k at 30fps. I don't mind dropping some settings either. Im worried that if a game 1080p on a 4k screen it's going to look blurry...
Yeah, low to medium settings will do, but it depends on the game though. Anandtech has benchmarks for some games at 4K at varying quality levels. For 4K, SLI GTX 970 is more common and recommended, I can't find a lot of testing results for a single GTX 970 at 4K.
Sutton Dagger
Member
Cheers mate, those results look better than I thought. I could manage medium/high (not maximum) quality at 30fps in many of those games.
When I sort of accepted my faith as a low-end pc gamer 6 or so years ago, I recall a separate NVidia PhysX card being all the rage ie. you could use a lower spec NVidia card to do all the PhysX calculations along the side of your main card. Is this still the case and worth it seeing I'm planning on buying a GTX 970 and got an ancient 9600GT which I'm currently using as a placeholder ? So the idea would be to use the 9600GT to do the PhysX shit.
Short answer: Don't bother.
Long answer: You can still use a second card to do PhysX but in practice its not worth it because your main card will do the PhysX faster than the secondary card will.
Thanks, pretty much the answer I was expecting. Was just wondering if there was any real use for this old piece of shit aside from a paperweight or a weight for a fishnet in a lake.
Thinking about going from my 780 to a 970. I really like how the 970 or 980 fans don't spin unless it's under load. The thing is though I got really lucky with my Asus 780, this is my gpu z. I still guess that it will be a pretty decent upgrade though?
My 780 hit 1100mhz core, 3500Mhz memory on custom bios, so no downclocking whilst gaming. Hit about 80*c reference cooler. Pretty loud. Stock volts. I could bench 1251Mhz core.
MSI Gamer 970 hits 1500mhz core, 3900Mhz memory. Its faster in all games i tried, some more than others, from 10% to 20%. Hits 70*c max, and fans are off below 60*c, +20mV. Pretty quiet too. Thats without custom bios too, so probably a bit more juice left.
Most the MSI gamer cards OC well too. Its been worth it, but i only spent £50 to "upgrade".
Peterthumpa
Member
Hey GAF, thinking about buying a new rig for me, I'm missing the master race exclusive features. GPU is locked, a 970. For the CPU, I'm leaning towards the i5 4460. Is this choice the best bang for the buck considering the i5 line? Anything better taking into account value?
Also, what would be equally good, performance x value, when choosing the mobo?
I'm not thinking about overclocking or something similar, just something that runs every recent game @ 1080p with good AA and 30+ FPS.
Thanks!
Also, what would be equally good, performance x value, when choosing the mobo?
I'm not thinking about overclocking or something similar, just something that runs every recent game @ 1080p with good AA and 30+ FPS.
Thanks!
Gotcha. Thanks. Having lower temps and less noise is worth it just for the upgrade then. Thanks!
Yeah I'll lose a lot of money on selling my 780, but better than no money for it. And my Seasonic 650 is the non-modular one which I've been wanting to replace ever since I first wired my rig. Thanks for the links for the other PSUs, I think I'll go dual 970 and pick up a new supply.
My dad is awesome and simultaneously makes me feel guilty as hell. I just got to his house tonight and he basically forced me to tell him which brand GTX980 I wanted him to get me for Christmas. Love the man, but I hate when he decided he's going to spend alot of money on me.
Well, looks like my 680 will be retired next week. I told him the MSI.
Well, looks like my 680 will be retired next week. I told him the MSI.
I hope the new year brings more options for people who are looking for a SFF console-like solution for their next build. I feel like mITX boards ard in need of more options. At least offer x99 and DDR4 solutions for mobos. SFX PSUs could probably use a boost too. They're at 600 watts right now but the one I found has had nothing but complaints of noise. Hopefully, if more contenders enter that department the more qulaity products will appear and maybe we'll get a 700w psu available to us
In terms of aesthetics I really feel like Silverstone are the only ones going for that slim console design in the DIY department and succeeding at it with their new FT and ML SFF lines. LIAN-LI almost had me sold on their PC-O5S and their PCQ19, but one is huge and the other doesn't support full sized cards.
Now, for a Mini-ATX solution I feel Lian Li has what I want with the PC-O6s. I feel like I have plenty of room to go with a watercoolong solution and still maintain that slim design. Needless to say, the case is still pretty big compared to a console or the RVZ or FTZ cases.
With all that said, I'm definitely in the mentality that smaller is better now. I just don't see the sense in owning a big case when all I want is high end single GPU performance. I'm not looking to shatter any records.
In terms of aesthetics I really feel like Silverstone are the only ones going for that slim console design in the DIY department and succeeding at it with their new FT and ML SFF lines. LIAN-LI almost had me sold on their PC-O5S and their PCQ19, but one is huge and the other doesn't support full sized cards.
Now, for a Mini-ATX solution I feel Lian Li has what I want with the PC-O6s. I feel like I have plenty of room to go with a watercoolong solution and still maintain that slim design. Needless to say, the case is still pretty big compared to a console or the RVZ or FTZ cases.
With all that said, I'm definitely in the mentality that smaller is better now. I just don't see the sense in owning a big case when all I want is high end single GPU performance. I'm not looking to shatter any records.
Yep. With the CPU in, the socket won't get dust in the gold contacts, feel free to blow out the case.
Pegosaurus
Banned
hello PC GAF, I have a question for you.
For the "Good - Very Capable" build in the OP, can anyone tell me what kind of framerates it will get in current gen and last gen games? I'd really appreciate it.
For the "Good - Very Capable" build in the OP, can anyone tell me what kind of framerates it will get in current gen and last gen games? I'd really appreciate it.
Which games exactly and what quality settings you play at will make a difference, but generally you will be good for 1080p gaming at medium or better. Assuming you go with the i5 4460 CPU ($180 USD) and the R9 270X GPU (~$140 USD), expect these framerates:
Anandtech GPU Bench
Eurogamer review (scroll down halfway for framerate table)
Cydonian__Knight
Member
Hey PC-GAF. I am working on picking out parts for a PC and was hoping to get some advice on a build. I have never built a PC before, so I'm completely new to the process. I am building it mainly as a gaming PC and I would like to be able to max out games at 1080p & have decent FPS. I would like to keep the build under $1,500, but that needs to include a monitor and peripherals such as a mouse & keyboard.
Here is what I have come up with so far, based on doing some basic research. I have a couple specific questions as well.
1. For a lot of these parts, including the memory, storage, and power supply, there are a ton of options and I just picked one that was a part of a recommended build. If there are better options for what I'm going for, I'm not attached to anything listed.
2. Do I need a heat sink or a CPU cooler?
3. As far as video cards, how do I pick between different ones that are based on the same underlying card? For example, I decided on a GTX 970, but how would I decide between the MSI or the Gigabyte version of the card?
4. For the case, should I go with a mid or full tower? I'm not too concerned with how it looks, just looking for something black and basic.
Here is what I have come up with so far, based on doing some basic research. I have a couple specific questions as well.
1. For a lot of these parts, including the memory, storage, and power supply, there are a ton of options and I just picked one that was a part of a recommended build. If there are better options for what I'm going for, I'm not attached to anything listed.
2. Do I need a heat sink or a CPU cooler?
3. As far as video cards, how do I pick between different ones that are based on the same underlying card? For example, I decided on a GTX 970, but how would I decide between the MSI or the Gigabyte version of the card?
4. For the case, should I go with a mid or full tower? I'm not too concerned with how it looks, just looking for something black and basic.
I would really appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance for your time and help.
Hey guys, need some help here. Trying to get this PC up and running for my Dad's Xmas gift. It's a semi new build.
i3 4190
ASRock H97 Anniversary Mobo
8 GB of Ram
Western Digital HDD
The thing powers on, but won't display through the onboard on the mobo. I didn't put a GPU in this since my Pop wouldn't have much use for it since he mainly streams stuff at best. I get no POST beeps on start up. HDD sounds like its being accessed but nothing through either VGA or HDMI ( I don't have a DVI cable to test ).
I've tried booting with both sticks of rams, one stick, etc.
I'm not sure whats up. Any tips?
i3 4190
ASRock H97 Anniversary Mobo
8 GB of Ram
Western Digital HDD
The thing powers on, but won't display through the onboard on the mobo. I didn't put a GPU in this since my Pop wouldn't have much use for it since he mainly streams stuff at best. I get no POST beeps on start up. HDD sounds like its being accessed but nothing through either VGA or HDMI ( I don't have a DVI cable to test ).
I've tried booting with both sticks of rams, one stick, etc.
I'm not sure whats up. Any tips?
DeFiBkIlLeR
Banned
I'm don't think that 'H' series Motherboards support on board graphics, and I can't find an 'i3 4190' listed, did you mean 4130 or 4150?
Sorry, i3 - 4150. The mobo is the ASRock H97M Anniversary. Box itself states it supports onboard graphics and a triple monitor set up. =x
DeFiBkIlLeR
Banned
'no post beeps' definitely indicates that something is not connected or seated properly as it is not finding a piece of hardware that it needs to boot.
Do you have the CPU fan connected to the primary CPU Fan header?
Some Motherboards won't boot as a safety feature if it is not detecting a cooler on the CPU.
Do you have the CPU fan connected to the primary CPU Fan header?
Some Motherboards won't boot as a safety feature if it is not detecting a cooler on the CPU.
Everything seems to be seated properly. CPU cooler is plugged into the correct header. When I hit power, the CPU fan spins up and I can hear the HDD popping on as I normally would.
You've done decently well for a first try. I have some recommendations for alternate parts here and there to save quite a bit of money. I don't know much about monitors, but Asus seems to be a decent brand, I myself have the Asus VS247H-P. You didn't have a keyboard listed, I assume you haven't picked one yet.
Here's my version of your build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($126.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Red 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital 2TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Best Buy)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($339.99 @ B&H)
Case: Cooler Master N400 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Asus VS238H-P 23.0" Monitor ($147.58 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Mouse: Razer DeathAdder 2013 Wired Optical Mouse ($43.89 @ Amazon)
Total: $1255.11
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-25 03:56 EST-0500
Anyway, on to your questions:
1. It was possible to save around $120. Here are my reasons for those parts.
- CPU cooler: The bundled Intel cooler is basic, and gets very loud. The Hyper 212 Evo is pretty much the performance-to-price king for CPU cooling.
- Motherboard: The Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H is a well-featured top-end motherboard, but for most people, the Z97X-SLI model is enough and it comes with a bundle discount. I went with it for cost savings, you can keep the UD5H on the list if you prefer.
- RAM: The Patriot memory is cheaper and faster, not much else to say.
- Hard drive: The WD hard drive is a bit slower (5900RPM compared to the Seagate's 7200RPM), but because the SSD will be your main drive with the OS on it, you likely won't notice the speed difference unless you need to do a lot of media production work and need a fast large storage drive to load and work from.
- Case: This was another cost savings move. You can definitely choose another case if you like. It's a good case and has a $20 discount with the Gigabyte motherboard I chose above.
- Power supply: The EVGA Supernova G2 is one of the best power supplies you can buy. Gold rated, fully modular, 10 year warranty, countless glowing reviews. It normally costs twice as much, but is only $60 after rebate now. It'll also be good if you intend to go with twin GTX 970s in the future.
- Wireless adaptor: The Gigabyte wifi adaptor is a bit cheaper but has a longer and more effective antenna, as well as having Wireless AC and bluetooth which the TP-Link model doesn't have.
3. All of the GTX 970 models are very good, it's hard to go wrong. Certain manufacturer's models have certain benefits over the others. Asus Strix, MSI Gaming 4G, EVGA FTX ACX 2.0, and other GTX 970 models have passive modes in which the fans will only turn on when past a certain temperature, making them very quiet. For overclocking, I believe the MSI Gaming 4G Twin Frozr and Gigabyte G1 Gaming are best. For small size to fit smaller cases, the Asus, MSI, and EVGA models have more compact coolers.
4. The Phanteks Enthoo Pro is an excellent case with great features, but it is larger than most people will need. You can go with a mid-tower case instead with no negatives in terms of cooling or performance. The Cooler Master N200/N400/N600 line and the Corsair 200R/300R are good budget cases. Otherwise at a higher price point I'd recommend Fractal cases like the Define R5, which has sound absorbing/muffling qualities.
Putting this in a separate post so you won't be as likely to miss it:
Did you plug in the CPU power cable? Should be a black 4 pin power connector at the very top of the motherboard. Might be a good idea to double check all power supply cable connections anyway - unplug and replug them all.
The ASRock H97M Anniversary doesn't have a built in speaker, just a connector for attaching a small beep speaker. Not all motherboards have speakers and I don't see any speaker on this picture, anyway, so I don't think the lack of beeping is an issue, but it does make it harder to troubleshoot.
TerryLee81
Member
Damn I should stay away from this thread.
Always tempted to buy a Air 540 case and move my parts in there from the R4, but it doesn't make any sense! Must resist....
Always tempted to buy a Air 540 case and move my parts in there from the R4, but it doesn't make any sense! Must resist....
Yessir. CPU Power is plugged in. I can turn this thing on, it stays on, probably just waiting for something to happen, but I can't get a display out of any of the ports.
Overclocking is addictive, it's not worth an extra 100mhz. You'll have to put in a bunch of time to stability test too. Enjoy your rig.
Try each stick of ram individually.
Make sure you are using the display ports on the back of the GPU.
Edit just seen your not using a GPU.
Try a CMOS reset, remove the motherboard battery, unplug the PC from mains power. Leave a few minutes then replace the battery.
I've got the machine up and displaying now. Seems the problem is that only one of the ram slots is working right now on the mobo. I don't know why this is but I finally have it up with windows installing now. I'll have to do further testing later on. Right now, I'm just happy its up.
Thank you guys for helping me. Merry Xmas!
DeFiBkIlLeR
Banned
I'd say you've reached your limit.
The best Haswells will run 4.6Ghz @1.2vlts, and then usually go onto 4.8Ghz (or more if you have the cooling) @1.25-1.3vlts.
My 4690K is one such chip, it 'can' do 4.8Ghz but I don't bother as the difference in anything but synthetic benchmarks is unnoticeable and I'd need a better cooler.
So, I wanna build a new PC and pretty new to the PC scene. Currently got a PS4 and a BENQ RL2455HM but my friend convinced me to get a PC. I would like to get feedback on the build im currently planning.
Motherboard: Asus M5A97 R2.0
Harddrive: Seagate 2.5 inch SSHD 1TB
PSU: Corsair CX500 V3
Graphics Card: Gigabyte GTX 760 4G Windforce 3X
Case: Fractal Design Define R5
CPU: AMD FX 6300
RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600mhz 8GB (2X4GB)
Cooler: CM Hyper 212 Evo
Mouse&Keyboard: Logitech G502 and Logitech G105
Link to list: btw the site is in Norwegian
What do you think? What should i switch out? Budget is around 1000 USD. Also remember that prices here in Norway are quite high. About 25% tax.
Thanks in advance
Motherboard: Asus M5A97 R2.0
Harddrive: Seagate 2.5 inch SSHD 1TB
PSU: Corsair CX500 V3
Graphics Card: Gigabyte GTX 760 4G Windforce 3X
Case: Fractal Design Define R5
CPU: AMD FX 6300
RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600mhz 8GB (2X4GB)
Cooler: CM Hyper 212 Evo
Mouse&Keyboard: Logitech G502 and Logitech G105
Link to list: btw the site is in Norwegian
What do you think? What should i switch out? Budget is around 1000 USD. Also remember that prices here in Norway are quite high. About 25% tax.
Thanks in advance
Don't go AMD, it's a poor choice for gaming on an aged, dead socket.
Better going for an i3.
Corsair CX isn't great either.
Using that website, what does the build you've posted above come to in kr?
Thanks for the advice. The build comes into about 7800 kroner. There are a lot of after christmas sales that brings the price down a little.
Switched the CPU to Intel Core i3 4150 and the PSU to either Thermaltake Smart 530W or Cooler Master G450M or Cooler Master B600
Plinko
Wildcard berths that can't beat teams without a winning record should have homefield advantage
Video card question:
I don't know a ton about upgrading video cards so I figured I'd ask the experts.
I've got a GTX 460 in my i7 Dell XPS 8700. I want to upgrade the card and would like to spend under $200. I see the GTX 760 is on sale for $169 after rebate and looks like a decent card. Are there better options out there right now or is the 760 a good card?
I don't know a ton about upgrading video cards so I figured I'd ask the experts.
I've got a GTX 460 in my i7 Dell XPS 8700. I want to upgrade the card and would like to spend under $200. I see the GTX 760 is on sale for $169 after rebate and looks like a decent card. Are there better options out there right now or is the 760 a good card?
Yeah 760 is still a very solid card. For Under $200 it's either that or an R9 285. Both good cards.
Will MSI Z87-G55 hold up as motherboard?
Thinking about replacing the 760 with a R9 280 or maybe import | buy the 760 used to shave of a couple of hundred crowns(kroner)
It'd be fine but I'd prefer a Z97 if possible.
Both of those are solid cards. How does the R9 285 compare price wise to a 280? It's a similar card but uses less power and has support for AMDs newer technologies like Freesync and TrueAudio, plus their version of DSR called VSR.
How old is the unit? If it's less than a year try your retailer for a refund rather than an RMA.
Its almost 3 months now, return window for Amazon is over.
Horsemama1956
Member
Keep in mind there are plenty of situations where the i3 won't hold 60(if this matters to you) and there isn't fuck all you can do about it other than upgrade. You can generally get the AMD cpus to i3 performance at a minimum with overclocking and significantly higher(FX6300 and up) in multithreaded games.
Having run multiple AMD and Intel CPUs this year, there are only a handful of games that really suck on AMD.
Significantly higher my arse. Got anything to back that up?
There will be a handful of games where the FX might edge out an i3 but for the majority it's the better choice. Modern CPU socket, has a good upgrade path and uses a lot less power.
MGS
Dragon Age (last one is with Mantle)
The Crew
AC: Unity
COD: AF
AMD just isn't a viable option for gaming. We've been through this multiple times over the last year in this thread, so sorry if I sound a bit short about it.
Still worth a try, especially with Amazon.
Ok, added Asus H97M-E to my list.
Sapphire R9 285 2GB is currently on sale for 1.995 kroner while stock r9 280 is 1.649 kroner with branded ones cheaper and pricier than Sapphire 285. Which one would you recommend? I kinda want to go with 285 since its on sale.
||
Also, im not crazy for 60 fps locked. Im probably going to play most multiplayer games on PS4 and single player games on PC. (With a few exclusionns, like CS:GO and other PC exclusive games.)
I'm of the opinion that in the $150-250 range, AMD's price to performance beats Nvidia handily.
The XFX R9 280X is currently $190 after a $30 rebate at NCIXUS, it is the cheapest that it has ever been. Compared to the GTX 760, the $20 more expensive R9 280X gives you 3GB VRAM and 10-30% or so higher framerate. The performance of the 280X is on par with the GTX 770.
If you wanted to save a bit of money, the R9 270X roughly equals the GTX 760 and is available for $140-150. The XFX R9 270X is $150 after $25 rebate at NCIXUS, while the Gigabyte R9 270X is $145 after $30 rebate at Newegg.
What's your current power supply wattage rating? You may need a better power supply..
Plinko
Wildcard berths that can't beat teams without a winning record should have homefield advantage
I've got 750W.
How about the R9 285? Tigerdirect has the Powercolor version for $199 after rebate. I think I may go that direction bcause it fits easily into the XPS case.
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