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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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LilJoka

Member

kharma45

Member
Its sad that Ubi limited FC4, there is a tool to allow this to run on a dual core though, and it runs pretty decent!

Also, from September 2015, my opinion will be to sell your PC and buy an X1, ill let you guys work out why ;)

Yeah the tool is in the links I posted :p

I honestly don't know why lol Does Halo launch then or something?
 
Sorry if this is the wrong place to post but is there a safe place to back up my game save files online? Similar to how it works with PS4 game saves on PS+? I'm looking for an easy way to upload my saves to cloud storage and then easily retrieve them when I want to play a game again.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 

garath

Member
Sorry if this is the wrong place to post but is there a safe place to back up my game save files online? Similar to how it works with PS4 game saves on PS+? I'm looking for an easy way to upload my saves to cloud storage and then easily retrieve them when I want to play a game again.

Thanks in advance for the help.

There's a program called gamesave manager which fits the bill. It's matured into a pretty good product from what I've heard. Otherwise no, you'd be relying on each individual game/service to manage cloud saves. i.e. dragon age has cloud saves through Origin but another game on Origin might not. Same with steam.

http://www.gamesave-manager.com/
 
so with my gtx 970 i got a nvidia pick your path thing where i can get either ac: unity, far cry 4 or the crew for free.

is the only way to get these things through uplay codes? cause i kind of wanted to play this through steam, everything else i have is on there.

plus there's this big shitstorm with far cry 4 not being on the uk steam store atm, god damn ubisoft.
 

The Llama

Member
so with my gtx 970 i got a nvidia pick your path thing where i can get either ac: unity, far cry 4 or the crew for free.

is the only way to get these things through uplay codes? cause i kind of wanted to play this through steam, everything else i have is on there.

plus there's this big shitstorm with far cry 4 not being on the uk steam store atm, god damn ubisoft.

Yeah, they just give you a Uplay code, not a Steam code. You can sell it on ebay or whatever if you don't want to bother with Uplay.
 

garath

Member
so with my gtx 970 i got a nvidia pick your path thing where i can get either ac: unity, far cry 4 or the crew for free.

is the only way to get these things through uplay codes? cause i kind of wanted to play this through steam, everything else i have is on there.

plus there's this big shitstorm with far cry 4 not being on the uk steam store atm, god damn ubisoft.

Uplay is crap but at least you can play the game through it. I've been enjoying Farcry 4.
 
There's a program called gamesave manager which fits the bill. It's matured into a pretty good product from what I've heard. Otherwise no, you'd be relying on each individual game/service to manage cloud saves. i.e. dragon age has cloud saves through Origin but another game on Origin might not. Same with steam.

http://www.gamesave-manager.com/

Hmmm maybe I should buy a good sized external drive to back up my saves on? Think thats a decent idea?

Basically I really need to make room on my internal SSD and don't want to lose my saves but need to delete some stuff :-\
 

garath

Member
Hmmm maybe I should buy a good sized external drive to back up my saves on? Think thats a decent idea?

Basically I really need to make room on my internal SSD and don't want to lose my saves but need to delete some stuff :-\

It looks like gamesave manager supports cloud drives like dropbox and google drive. You can just back them up to that. Alternatively just keeping the saves on your SSD will be nice and small. No biggie. The program will help you find them and get them backed up properly. In PC gaming they are spread all over the place. Some in userdata, some in program files, some in my documents, some in their own game directory. It's bad.
 
It looks like gamesave manager supports cloud drives like dropbox and google drive. You can just back them up to that. Alternatively just keeping the saves on your SSD will be nice and small. No biggie. The program will help you find them and get them backed up properly. In PC gaming they are spread all over the place. Some in userdata, some in program files, some in my documents, some in their own game directory. It's bad.

Ok so one last major n00b question even though I've been PC gaming for nearly 2 years. If I uninstall a game from say...Steam does it delete my saves?
 

RGM79

Member
I'd like to make a low budget system to play recent games at lowish settings, certainly nothing at 1080p. I'd like to base the system around an expensive part that can be scored cheaply from Craigslist.

Budget: $300
Main Use: Gaming
TV Resolution: 1360x798 or 1280x720
Games: I'd like to play Alien isolation and Evil Within at low to medium settings, 30FPS is okay, and PhysX would be nice.
Will you be overclocking?: I'd rather not

Here's what I came up with:

Intel Core 2 Quad Q9400 2.66Ghz Quad-Core $79.40
Arctic Cooling Alpine 11 Plus Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler $8.99
Gigabyte GA-G41MT-S2PT Micro ATX LGA775 Motherboard $69.62
Team Elite 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory $29.99
Hitachi Ultrastar 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $48.00
Gigabyte GTX 460 1GB Video Card $40.00 (craigslist)
Rosewill FBM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case $23.99
XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply $27.99

Base Total: $357.58
Promo Discounts: -$10.00
Mail-in Rebates: -$25.00
Shipping: $5.40
Total: $327.98

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/QgFPhM

What's a better build for what I'm looking for?

I wouldn't buy that Q9400 and socket 775 motherboard. As Kharma45 showed you, a Pentium and socket 1150 motherboard can be had for the same price, and that Pentium will have a lot more potential and greater processing power than an old Q6600, despite being only a dual core processor.

You'll need to scour Craigslist for as many parts as you can. CPU, RAM, and computer cases can be bought used with relatively lower risk, usually parts like those don't really get damaged nor are prone to failure from wear as factory QC is usually pretty good, they are protected by the nature of their design (CPU is sandwiched between motherboard and heatsink, RAM heatsinks cover everything, the only exposed parts on either are the gold contacts which you should check for damage) and should be good as long as the seller can demonstrate that they are in working condition and/or has seen little wear.

I'd be wary of buying motherboards, graphics cards, hard drives, and power supplies due to those parts generally being more fragile - exposed circuitry means they're easier to damage and even a small amount of physical damage could irreparably stop them from working properly. Graphics cards, especially AMD models, were recently popular for cryptocoin mining (that means run at high stress near 24/7 doing calculations) and while they may be selling used for a relatively deep discount compared to normal retail prices, you never know how much wear and tear they have and could fail due to heavy use.

Kharma45's build is a pretty good place to start from. Who knows, maybe you'll find an i3 processor for sale used for $100 or so, and it'll make a big difference in how strong your PC is. I recently was able to put together an HTPC with a Pentium G3258 (overclockable) for under $150 with used parts and some spares I had lying around, but parts availability and used prices will differ where you are.
 

garath

Member
Ok so one last major n00b question even though I've been PC gaming for nearly 2 years. If I uninstall a game from say...Steam does it delete my saves?

I've been PC gaming for 25 years. I have no idea. :) It'll vary by game. I always assume uninstalling a game will delete the saves unless it has cloud saves. If I really care about the save, I'll find it first and back it up. That's why gamesave manager is good too. Takes away that uncertainty.
 

Sickbean

Member
You'll be able to sync your DS4 to your PC via bluetooth, but it won't register as an X-Input device until you install DS4Windows. The DS4 is amazing with Windows using DS4Windows. Works perfectly with all X-Input supported games, and you can even use the touchpad as a mouse, which has come quite in handy for me, especially with older games where you need to navigate the menus or splashscreen with a mouse before playing. You can open Big Picture mode in Steam from the desktop by just holding the PS button as well. Nice stuff.

Heres' the official DS4Windows thread, from the creator:

http://forums.pcsx2.net/Thread-DS4Windows-Another-fork-another-thread

Great guide on how to install. It's very simple.

Wow, looks awesome. Cheers for the info.
 

e90Mark

Member
Would a 970 be the only upgrade I need to stay relatively current if my current pc specs are as follows..? I haven't really followed anything PC closely in about 2 years and my rig is currently sitting disconnected in a corner, but looking to hook it back up..

3570k stock clock/cooler
8GB ddr3 1600
z77 pro3
600w corsair psu
evga gtx 570 sc
antec 900 illusion
23" lg ips 1080p
128gb m4
1tb seagate
 

The Llama

Member
Would a 970 be the only upgrade I need to stay relatively current if my current pc specs are as follows..? I haven't really followed anything PC closely in about 2 years and my rig is currently sitting disconnected in a corner, but looking to hook it back up..

3570k stock clock/cooler
8GB ddr3 1600
z77 pro3
600w corsair psu
evga gtx 570 sc
antec 900 illusion
23" lg ips 1080p
128gb m4
1tb seagate

Yeah, a 970 would be a great update. Get a new CPU cooler and overclock your CPU too, and you'll be good for another few years.
 
Do you have any preference for the type of case you want? A budget of $150 will get you a lot of different cases. Case size (ATX, micro ATX, mini ITX)? Sound absorbing? Design style?

Because you don't want to remove drive cages, I assume you have a lot of hard drives you need the case to accommodate? What graphics card do you have?

The Fractal Define R5 ($120) can accommodate 300mm which is just shy of 12 inches.

hey sry kinda forgot about this thread

thinking of going with the gigabyte 970 G1 which slightly longer than 12 inch.

don't care about style, just want decent case with enough space.
 

RGM79

Member
hey sry kinda forgot about this thread

thinking of going with the gigabyte 970 G1 which slightly longer than 12 inch.

don't care about style, just want decent case with enough space.

The Corsair 200R is only $40 after $10 rebate and has more than enough space to accomodate the Gigabyte G1 GTX 970.

Well, if you want to look for something else, here's a definitive list of PC cases that are compatible with the Gigabyte G1 GTX 970. The list is filtered to show cases from what I think are quality brands (Antec, Bitfenix, Cooler Master, Corsair, Fractal, NZXT, Phanteks, Silverstone). If you click the yellow "add" button for any one of them, the site will tell you more detailed information like if you need to remove a drive cage for it to fit or if it'll block expansion bays.
 

Oxn

Member
Would a 970 be the only upgrade I need to stay relatively current if my current pc specs are as follows..? I haven't really followed anything PC closely in about 2 years and my rig is currently sitting disconnected in a corner, but looking to hook it back up..

3570k stock clock/cooler
8GB ddr3 1600
z77 pro3
600w corsair psu
evga gtx 570 sc
antec 900 illusion
23" lg ips 1080p
128gb m4
1tb seagate

Why has it been unused? And a 3570K will easily last you 2-3 years. EASILY with the way CPUs are moving.
 

jarosh

Member
Ugh, was gonna get myself the ASUS Strix (970) for Christmas. Turns out it's too wide (5.5"). I can only fit 4.92" width and 11" height in my SilverStone case. Though supposedly ASUS has the quietest fans now, which would have been awesome...

Can anyone recommend a 970 that fits my case per the above restrictions and that is known for being similarly quiet/near silent?
 

garath

Member
Ugh, was gonna get myself the ASUS Strix (970) for Christmas. Turns out it's too wide (5.5"). I can only fit 4.92" width and 11" height in my SilverStone case. Though supposedly ASUS has the quietest fans now, which would have been awesome...

Can anyone recommend a 970 that fits my case per the above restrictions and that is known for being similarly quiet/near silent?

MSI or EVGA will be equally quiet because of the no fan on idle and gentle fan curve (neither will get much above 40% fan speed and only keeps it under 70C).

I don't know the dimensions offhand though. I bet you can find it on the website though. I know the EVGA I have is smaller than the ASUS I RMA'd.
 

Thorgal

Member
I had quite the same symptoms for a while with my pc, couldn't find out why...until I finaly understood it was a memory problem: happened that my msi mobo (z87-g45) didn't like my G skill ram. Was working fine 90% of the time, but pc would randomly bsod like you describe. Changed the ram's brand and all my problems went away.
Not saying G-skill is a bad brand, but it does seem to be causing issues with msi mobos.

Thanks , but it seems Hazaro 's suggestion of rolling back my drivers seems to have fixed it .
 

BigAT

Member
Here's a question, I'm curious if anyone has heard of this before.

I've been having some problems with my audio input/microphone for a while now. Basically whenever I'm speaking, there is a high pitched buzzing in the background. I've heard it described as being like a dentist's drill, although the intensity isn't quite that loud.

I've gotten it when using two different headsets, so I don't think it is my mic. I have gotten it in multiple VOIP programs, so I don't think it's the software. I have tried both the front and back mic ports on my PC. Do I just need to buy a new soundcard or something? I currently just use the onboard sound on my MB.
 

Afro

Member
Anyone else find an improvement in stuttering after changing your power plan from "balanced" to "performance" in Windows Control Panel?

I was getting an occasional stutter in Ground Zeroes when moving the camera around. It was pretty minor, but annoying nonetheless.

Ran 3DMark and found that my my maximum turbo core clock was at a measly 1,596 mhz.

Changed my power plan to "performance' and the clock shot up to what it's supposed to be (3,860 mhz).

Micro stutter pretty much gone after a few tests. Running the clock at 100% must be beneficial for gaming rather than having the clock start low and have to quickly ramp up under stress, no?
 
Hey guys, I've been asked by a couple of family members to build computers for them for the coming year.

Build 1

My aunt and uncle want a new computer for their home office. Its main purpose will be for using QuickBooks for their home business. The only other uses will be basic web browsing and photo/video viewing. They don't need it for games, video editing, or anything too demanding. I'm thinking a 20 inch 1080p monitor will work fine. I'd like to go as low cost and as quiet as possible.

Build 2

My mom needs a new work computer for her kitchen cabinet/counter top business. The most demanding program that the system needs to run is ProKitchen (System Requirements). I'm thinking we will want an SSD for the OS and programs, and a standard HD for backup. We will need a reasonably large and high quality monitor, I'm thinking 24 inch 1080p. The budget is about $1000 but can go higher.

I'd like to come close to the "Super Performance" specs from ProKitchen's website.
Processor: Quad Core i7-4700QM
Supported Platforms: Windows 7, 8.0, 8.1
Hard Drive: 500 Gb
RAM: 12 Gb
Video Card: 2Gb NVIDIA, ATI

Here is what I have come up with so far.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($96.48 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Red 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 270X 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($137.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT H230 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX Power Supply ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro (OEM) (64-bit) ($129.00 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Acer G246HLAbd 60Hz 24.0" Monitor ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1222.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-23 16:07 EST-0500

Thanks in advance. A few of you guys helped me with my sister's computer last year which turned out great so I'm sure these will turn out great as well.
 

Echo Six

Neo Member
So do you guys think DDR4 ram will be the standard by early 2016? I wanted to drop some more DDR3 in my 2011 rig to play Star Citizen then use it in a new build before the PU releases, but I might not bother if it's going to be obsolete by then.
 
I'm wondering that too. After throwing down a good chunk of money I'm having remorse I didn't wait a bit. But then that is always the game with electronics.

Side note, anyone using an i7-4790 with a gigabyte UD3H? Purchased it because of the nice package deal that RGM79 directed me too. Now I'm reading about overheating issues. Kinda scared. Fortunately my friend who is helping me set everything is our main campus tech so I have faith in stress testing. Just wondering if I should jump ship before opening anything.
 

NeoFaff

Member
Ok so one last major n00b question even though I've been PC gaming for nearly 2 years. If I uninstall a game from say...Steam does it delete my saves?

Varies by game. If the saves are in the install folder, uninstalling will usually delete them.

My Documents and %appdata% save data is almost always left alone. The few games that save to the registry don't really follow a pattern.

Also keep in mind that the uninstaller may ask you if you want to keep your settings when removing a game. Sometimes saves fall under that category :/


I really wish Microsoft would force the use of the Documents\My Games folder.
 
going to shoot this to you guys because i need help with a small budgetof 700 canadian - want to be able to play games like witcher 3/H1Z1 and stream ...so something that can work good with dual monitors i guess? any help would be amazing.
 

TomPUH

Member
So do you guys think DDR4 ram will be the standard by early 2016? I wanted to drop some more DDR3 in my 2011 rig to play Star Citizen then use it in a new build before the PU releases, but I might not bother if it's going to be obsolete by then.

God I hope so, I'm going to do a full PC rebuild once DDR4 is commonplace.
 

kharma45

Member
So do you guys think DDR4 ram will be the standard by early 2016? I wanted to drop some more DDR3 in my 2011 rig to play Star Citizen then use it in a new build before the PU releases, but I might not bother if it's going to be obsolete by then.

God I hope so, I'm using DDR4 as the go ahead for a full PC rebuild.

It will be. Skylake onwards will be using DDR4. Broadwell will be the last to use DDR3.

going to shoot this to you guys because i need help with a small budgetof 700 canadian - want to be able to play games like witcher 3/H1Z1 and stream ...so something that can work good with dual monitors i guess? any help would be amazing.

For $700 CA I'd look at this as a starting point

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($204.89 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi H81S2 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($62.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.96 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($61.98 @ DirectCanada)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 285 2GB TurboDuo Video Card ($199.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.95 @ Vuugo)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $709.74
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-23 17:13 EST-0500
 

JustinBB7

Member
My headset is dying, the wire has been tangled up for years, and it got so bad I was too scared to ever untangle it. I switched my desk around a bit and now I can't wear it without hunching forward. Tried to untangle it and my sound went gone, put it back the way it was and now it works again luckily. Using a Creative Fatal1ty Pro HS-800 now.

But anyway, I'd like a wireless headset, are those ok for gaming now? Delay wise and all. I don't really like wireless for that stuff, but I'm sick of the wires tangling. Was looking at the Logitech H800, looks nice fairly positive reviews and decent price. Just wondering if it's alright to buy for games with delay in mind. Would I even notice it?
 

RGM79

Member
Anyone else find an improvement in stuttering after changing your power plan from "balanced" to "performance" in Windows Control Panel?

I was getting an occasional stutter in Ground Zeroes when moving the camera around. It was pretty minor, but annoying nonetheless.

Ran 3DMark and found that my my maximum turbo core clock was at a measly 1,596 mhz.

Changed my power plan to "performance' and the clock shot up to what it's supposed to be (3,860 mhz).

Micro stutter pretty much gone after a few tests. Running the clock at 100% must be beneficial for gaming rather than having the clock start low and have to quickly ramp up under stress, no?

That depends on your hardware specs. I assume you have a laptop? Performance plan usually makes the most difference on laptops.

Hey guys, I've been asked by a couple of family members to build computers for them for the coming year.

My aunt and uncle want a new computer for their home office. Its main purpose will be for using QuickBooks for their home business. The only other uses will be basic web browsing and photo/video viewing. They don't need it for games, video editing, or anything too demanding. I'm thinking a 20 inch 1080p monitor will work fine. I'd like to go as low cost and as quiet as possible.

My mom needs a new work computer for her kitchen cabinet/counter top business. The most demanding program that the system needs to run is ProKitchen (System Requirements). I'm thinking we will want an SSD for the OS and programs, and a standard HD for backup. We will need a reasonably large and high quality monitor, I'm thinking 24 inch 1080p. The budget is about $1000 but can go higher.

I'd like to come close to the "Super Performance" specs from ProKitchen's website. Here is what I have come up with so far.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Thanks in advance. A few of you guys helped me with my sister's computer last year which turned out great so I'm sure these will turn out great as well.

Build #1 won't be too difficult. That could be done for $500, definitely less. If your aunt and uncle don't need a lot of storage space, then a 256GB SSD wouldn't be a bad choice - it'd mean a fast loading system for them. Otherwise if they need the storage or to save more money, they could go to a regular hard drive instead. I'm not really knowledgeable about monitor recommendations so I went with the same monitor you had picked for your mother.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD A8-6600K 3.9GHz Quad-Core Processor ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus A78M-E Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Red 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($37.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Acer G246HLAbd 60Hz 24.0" Monitor ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $492.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-23 18:08 EST-0500

As for build #2, ProKitchen have specified a high end.. laptop processor? And 12GB of RAM? Not sure what's going on there. Midrange desktop parts will be more than adequate, going by the fact that their minimum specs are extremely low. I get the feeling that i7 and 16GB RAM will be overkill. I assume build #2 won't be overclocked, so there's money to be saved here and there. Going by the parts list, you want everything to be from either Newegg or Amazon? That's doable. Here's my recommended build - comes in under $900 including everything, and is more compact.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.29 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($81.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Red 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($43.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($37.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($13.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Acer G246HLAbd 60Hz 24.0" Monitor ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $835.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-23 17:52 EST-0500

You could drop the DVD drive for even more savings. You can get Windows 7 or 8.1 for $20 and less each for both computers from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap, and download and install it through USB with Microsoft's official USB tools.

I'm wondering that too. After throwing down a good chunk of money I'm having remorse I didn't wait a bit. But then that is always the game with electronics.

Side note, anyone using an i7-4790 with a gigabyte UD3H? Purchased it because of the nice package deal that RGM79 directed me too. Now I'm reading about overheating issues. Kinda scared. Fortunately my friend who is helping me set everything is our main campus tech so I have faith in stress testing. Just wondering if I should jump ship before opening anything.

Overheating? I kind of doubt the Hyper 212 Evo would be that bad for cooling - it's highly rated and good enough for even overclocking, or are you referring to something else overheating?
 

jarosh

Member
MSI or EVGA will be equally quiet because of the no fan on idle and gentle fan curve (neither will get much above 40% fan speed and only keeps it under 70C).

I don't know the dimensions offhand though. I bet you can find it on the website though. I know the EVGA I have is smaller than the ASUS I RMA'd.

Thanks. I looked into it a bit and it seems that generally the smaller versions of all the cards run quite a bit louder. It's apparently only the big "gaming" editions that run cooler and quieter under load :(
 
Overheating? I kind of doubt the Hyper 212 Evo would be that bad for cooling - it's highly rated and good enough for even overclocking, or are you referring to something else overheating?

When looking at the mobo on newegg one of the reviews mentioned this intel thread

Throughout it, there are a lot of u3dh boards mentioned. When i google searched ud3h and i7 4970k together a majority of the threads were heat issues with it ramping up to 100c with very little usage. I found fixes ranging from updating the bios, to tweeking power settings.

Some of these threads started as early as august, but there were still a few up to even December. I'm assuming things are ok or it would be really weird for them to package these together. Also, with everything people are less prone to speak up when everything works so there is bias in the search alone. Was just wanting to hear any testimonials of this grouping.
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks. I looked into it a bit and it seems that generally the smaller versions of all the cards run quite a bit louder. It's apparently only the big "gaming" editions that run cooler and quieter under load :(

Well, a bigger heatsink with larger fans means the fans don't have to spin as quickly and loudly to cool better.

nah, desktop. i7 3770 + 970. i swear it fixed my stuttering.

Wow, yeah, 1.6GHz is awful. You're not using the stock Intel cooler, are you?

When looking at the mobo on newegg one of the reviews mentioned this intel thread

Throughout it, there are a lot of u3dh boards mentioned. When i google searched ud3h and i7 4970k together a majority of the threads were heat issues with it ramping up to 100c with very little usage. I found fixes ranging from updating the bios, to tweeking power settings.

Some of these threads started as early as august, but there were still a few up to even December. I'm assuming things are ok or it would be really weird for them to package these together. Also, with everything people are less prone to speak up when everything works so there is bias in the search alone. Was just wanting to hear any testimonials of this grouping.

At first I saw the guy at the top of the thread with the NH-L12 cooler and thought that he might just be running the system too hard for a small heatsink. Then the guy with the Corsair watercooler confirmed the same issue.

Looking around myself, I see that the Z97X-UD5H had issues with overheating when automatically overclocking the 4770K in an Anandtech review.

I found the same Intel forum thread. Seems to me that the problem may be with Gigabyte motherboard and excessively high voltage applied to CPU by default..

Other than that, not much was found. I'm hoping this was a small issue with select Gigabyte motherboards. Still, something like this is awful.. I was recommending the UD3H a bit frequently while it had the $43 discount paired with Intel CPUs.
 
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