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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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E

ekgrey

Member
CreepingFear said:
I just have that itch. My computer minus the graphics card upgrade, will be 4 years old this March. I successfully didn't buy a thing during the steam sale, so I think deep down I want to save the money for when I really need to upgrade.
Click to expand...

i definitely understand. and yeah, the winter sale was pretty disappointing. i still got a few things, but that's because i had Xmas money and my wishlist is huge since i'm fairly new to Steam, not because the deals were great.

the itch is real though. besides Steam, i bought:
-an Xbox 360 controller for PC
-Corsair AF140 LED fan
-NZXT LED strip
-mouse bungee

none of which could be called "necessary" by any stretch. :D i thought pretty hard about getting a Corsair closed loop CPU cooler, but since i think i'm going to end up doing a custom loop eventually, it'd be a waste.
 
K

knitoe

Member
CreepingFear said:
I just have that itch. My computer minus the graphics card upgrade, will be 4 years old this March. I successfully didn't buy a thing during the steam sale, so I think deep down I want to save the money for when I really need to upgrade.
Click to expand...
You could upgrade to X99 Build. I also had the itch and went from 2600K to 5930K. This year, going to upgrade my SLI Titans to better handle 4K gaming.
 
I

ISOM

Member
Jothel said:
hey guys - I live in Japan and want to build a PC. I've built one before so I know I can do I it but I'm far from an expert - not sure what is compatible with what etc. I have a budget of around 150k Yen, around $1500 I guess? I don't really know where to start with this budget and I've been out of the loop for a while so any help would be great thanks =D
Click to expand...

Are you planning on using your system for heavy gaming?
 
I

ISOM

Member
Jothel said:
sorry should have mentioned that in the original post but yeah, it will ideally be for gaming rather than video processing etc.
Click to expand...

Here is a list that should have you set gaming wise for the next couple of years. SSD's are the current must have storage drive so that you have a very fast and responsive system. I added an extra 2tb harddrive just in case you needed the space.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($317.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($146.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($76.97 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($169.98 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($149.75 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card ($329.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1355.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-02 23:43 EST-0500

The pricing of these parts may differ drastically since you may be importing them into Japan. I don't know how Japan's pc building scene is so you may need to go lower in specs if your limit is set at $1500 but the parts are marked up due to your location.
 
H

hitgirl

Member
Every fan I plug into my Maximus Gene VI CPU Fan header has a grinding noise. When I switch it over to a motherboard Fan header it's fine. Anyone got any ideas on why this is so? Both fans I'm trying with are PWM. Noctuas have a much worse grinding noise than my corsairs, but it's evident on both.
 
I

ISOM

Member
hitgirl said:
Every fan I plug into my Maximus Gene VI CPU Fan header has a grinding noise. When I switch it over to a motherboard Fan header it's fine. Anyone got any ideas on why this is so? Both fans I'm trying with are PWM. Noctuas have a much worse grinding noise than my corsairs, but it's evident on both.
Click to expand...

Did you check the screws on both? It might not be tight enough.
 
M

McBryBry

Member
Guys, I need help fast. I went to flash my BIOS (MSI Gaming 5) and now nothings happening. The screen said it updated successfully. Now my monitor is getting no signal. The PC is on, but the CPU temp numbers on the MB are stuck at zero and as I said, no DVI signal via MB or video card. What do I do?
 
T

teiresias

Member
I'm not sure whether to post this here or in the old 970 and 980 release thread, but I'll put it here anyway.

Does anyone else here have an MSI 980 Gaming 4G and notice asynchronous fan behavior? I'm wondering if this is normal or if my card has a problem.

If I start up something like Heaven Benchmark and watch the temp and the reported Fan RPM in GPU-Z it will keep the fans off until it hits some temperature. At which point it will report a 40% fan setting in GPU-Z however, only one fan will come on, the other won't kick in until it hits about 50% or a little above and the fan on the display cable end (not the PCI-E power connector end) will always spin slower than the other.

It doesn't seem to be affecting my clocks or temps at all (it boosts to 1329core out of the box in "OC Mode" in the MSI app - I haven't tried manually overclocking via Afterburner yet), so it's meeting all specs, and the temps are great. I've just never seen this kind of behavior on a card before, it's like they consider RPM% total RPM of the card so one span spinning and one not would be 50% in GPU-Z.

As I said, not terribly concerned - I can't hear the fans anyway so the only reason I noticed this was looking into the case tonight - just wondering if anyone else sees the same behavior.

[EDIT] Awww, after browsing the MSI forum it seems that the asynchronous behavior is normal since one fan is for the actual GPU die heatsink and one is for the VRMs. There does seem to be an issue with fans starting randomly when in idle and they have various vbios files on the forum to fix it (maybe) but I haven't had that issue (and probably wouldn't notice it if I did since the card is so quiet regardless).
 
V

vocab

Member
bmoore1321 said:
Guys, I need help fast. I went to flash my BIOS (MSI Gaming 5) and now nothings happening. The screen said it updated successfully. Now my monitor is getting no signal. The PC is on, but the CPU temp numbers on the MB are stuck at zero and as I said, no DVI signal via MB or video card. What do I do?
Click to expand...
Clear CMOS and hope it didn't shit it self.
 
J

Jothel

Member
ISOM said:
Here is a list that should have you set gaming wise for the next couple of years. SSD's are the current must have storage drive so that you have a very fast and responsive system. I added an extra 2tb harddrive just in case you needed the space.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($317.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($146.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($76.97 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($169.98 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($149.75 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card ($329.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1355.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-02 23:43 EST-0500

The pricing of these parts may differ drastically since you may be importing them into Japan. I don't know how Japan's pc building scene is so you may need to go lower in specs if your limit is set at $1500 but the parts are marked up due to your location.
Click to expand...

Amazing, I'll check out Japanese Amazon along with some other sites and see how it prices out.
Thanks!
 
M

McBryBry

Member
Easy_D said:
A relatively easy way is to remove the battery on your motherboard (if possible) and let it be for a few minutes.

Here's an easy guide with helpful pics It also details other means to do so, should your motherboard be a model that doesn't allow you to remove the battery.
Click to expand...

I cannot figure out at ALL how to remove this battery. Is this a jumper next to it?

eN50dJG.jpg
Click to expand...

EDIT: Nevermind I got the battery out. Just leave it out for a few, put it back on, power switch on PSU and then power on?
 
M

McBryBry

Member
I apologize for the double post, but I put the battery back in, switched the PSU to on and powered on, and still no post on the screen. I'm panicking a little :(
 
O

OldGangWarily

Member
A silly question here...

For anyone that made the upgrade, is the jump from GTX 780 TI SLI to GTX 980 SLI worth the upgrade? I have a 4K Gsync monitor and all the little hitches and stutters, even with Gsync on, is starting to drive me bonkers. HardOCP seems to think that the upgrade will result in a much smoother 4K gaming experience but...what do you think GAF?

I'm also planning on holding out a few months to see if the 8GB version of the 980 actually come to fruition.
 
K

Kambing

Member
haveheart said:
I just cannot decide: These are my three favs and I know they differ in every aspect.

- the Dell P2414h. Modern IPS (!= U2414) and according to reviews decent input lag and responsiveness.
- the Iiyama XB2483. AMVA+ panel, no ips problems, also decent lag/ms for gaming
- and a 144hz display, maybe also a iiyama (prolite GB2773HS-GB1), since it comes cheapest (I ignore acer products)

Primarily, I play CS:GO and occasionally a Blizzard game. I also do lots of office work, i.e. writing/word and statistics/excel.
I've read a 144hz display is really good for office work because it's comfy for the eyes. On the other hand there a reports that excel work on 144hz TNs is horrible due to bad contrast and viewing angle so that u can't even see the cell lines...
Click to expand...

I do not know what your budget is but if you can bite the bullet, an eizo FG2421 is pretty much all those monitors combined into one. As a display snob i can tell you that:

+ With the 240hz turbo mode engaged there is no perceivable motion blur. Not as good as CRT, but holyshit, on testufo.com i can SEE the UFO move with no blur.
+ Best black levels i have seen on a computer monitor. When playing with a dim light source behind the display, it almost appears as if it is absolute black. Comparable to my Pioneer Kuro in this regard.
+ Can connect consoles via HDMI port and has audio out (so for example, PS4 -> HDMI -> Eizo FG2421 -> Audio Out cable -> Amp/DAC -> Headphones)
+ Low input lag
- Price tag.
- Color reproduction not as good as my Dell u2711, but way WAY better than any TN panel shit. Disgusting those displays.
- No G-sync. This one really sucks not to have, but ah well.
 
E

Easy_D

never left the stone age
bmoore1321 said:
I apologize for the double post, but I put the battery back in, switched the PSU to on and powered on, and still no post on the screen. I'm panicking a little :(
Click to expand...

Ugh, I know the feeling. Did you hold the front panel power switch down for a while after you removed the battery?
 
M

McBryBry

Member
Easy_D said:
Ugh, I know the feeling. Did you hold the front panel power switch down for a while after you removed the battery?
Click to expand...

Yes. I'm supposed to have the PSU switch off while I do all this, correct?

Also, my front panel LED's are off now. The buttons all still work. My GPU and mobo LED's still come on. CPU, GPU and case fans are on. Just for a little more info.
 
V

vocab

Member
MSI boards usually have a button for CMOS.

Does your manual have debug codes for the numbers that show up on the led display?
 
V

vocab

Member
OldGangWarily said:
A silly question here...

For anyone that made the upgrade, is the jump from GTX 780 TI SLI to GTX 980 SLI worth the upgrade? I have a 4K Gsync monitor and all the little hitches and stutters, even with Gsync on, is starting to drive me bonkers. HardOCP seems to think that the upgrade will result in a much smoother 4K gaming experience but...what do you think GAF?

I'm also planning on holding out a few months to see if the 8GB version of the 980 actually come to fruition.
Click to expand...

The drivers for 900 series right now are kinda ass. I'd wait. You'll have way more headaches.
 
T

teiresias

Member
The Gaming 5 doesn't have a button, but like all motherboards that came about prior to having clear CMOS buttons there's a jumper for the same function.

You should just have the computer off, move the jumper to the clear position for a few seconds and then move it back. You shouldn't apply power (though I don't think it's necessary to actually turn off the PSU switch).

Here's the page from the Gaming 5 manual (it's fairly standard CMOS behavior):
Mna7FKs.jpg
 
M

McBryBry

Member
teiresias said:
The Gaming 5 doesn't have a button, but like all motherboards that came about prior to having clear CMOS buttons there's a jumper for the same function.

You should just have the computer off, move the jumper to the clear position for a few seconds and then move it back. You shouldn't apply power (though I don't think it's necessary to actually turn off the PSU switch).

Here's the page from the Gaming 5 manual (it's fairly standard CMOS behavior):
Click to expand...

Here's my issue. I'm not sure what the clear position is. Is there supposed to be something on the jumper that I move or take off? Because there's nothing there. Just the two pins.
 
N

nightmare-slain

Banned
bmoore1321 said:
Here's my issue. I'm not sure what the clear position is. Is there supposed to be something on the jumper that I move or take off? Because there's nothing there. Just the two pins.
Click to expand...

just short the two pins when the mobo is off. use a flathead screwdriver or something. that will clear the CMOS.
 
R

RGM79

Member
espher said:
So, I had this power supply in a build I purchased from NCIX. I am now being told they don't actually have it, and my options are either to wait (can potentially cause problems for my MIRs), or see about substituting it for something else.

Any recommendations for a swap that are in a range they would likely be willing to sub? I'm tempted to just ask about the 750 since it's in stock and has a $10 higher MSRP (and I'd probably eat that difference), but is there a 'better' alternative for me to explore? I've had good experience with Corsair stuff (I know others here have said they haven't), but my brand loyalty isn't super strong... the issue is I got it at a good price w/ a MIR on top, so... yeah.
Click to expand...

What is the price you got it for? It shows up as $130 for me, so I don't know what to recommend you for the same price you bought it.

Shark Johnson said:
Is the PSU enough for all this, or will I need to get a new one?

Intel i5 4690k
ASRock Z97 Extreme 4
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970
Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB
SanDisk Ultra Plus 256GB
Toshiba 3TB HDD
LG DVD-RW Drive
NZXT Sentry Mix 2
Coolermaster 212 Evo
NZXT 140MM fans (x2)
NZXT 120MM fans (x2)
Click to expand...

It is enough - just don't expect to be able to add anything more, like a second graphics card.

hitgirl said:
Every fan I plug into my Maximus Gene VI CPU Fan header has a grinding noise. When I switch it over to a motherboard Fan header it's fine. Anyone got any ideas on why this is so? Both fans I'm trying with are PWM. Noctuas have a much worse grinding noise than my corsairs, but it's evident on both.
Click to expand...

Is it running at different speeds when you plug them into different headers?
 
H

haveheart

Banned
Kambing said:
I do not know what your budget is but if you can bite the bullet, an eizo FG2421 is pretty much all those monitors combined into one. As a display snob i can tell you that:

+ With the 240hz turbo mode engaged there is no perceivable motion blur. Not as good as CRT, but holyshit, on testufo.com i can SEE the UFO move with no blur.
+ Best black levels i have seen on a computer monitor. When playing with a dim light source behind the display, it almost appears as if it is absolute black. Comparable to my Pioneer Kuro in this regard.
+ Can connect consoles via HDMI port and has audio out (so for example, PS4 -> HDMI -> Eizo FG2421 -> Audio Out cable -> Amp/DAC -> Headphones)
+ Low input lag
- Price tag.
- Color reproduction not as good as my Dell u2711, but way WAY better than any TN panel shit. Disgusting those displays.
- No G-sync. This one really sucks not to have, but ah well.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I want this. It really seems to be perfect for allround needs. But, as you said, the price is way to high. Basically, anything above 250€ is out of the question. I know that I won't get the perfect display with a small and limited budget like that. But I wanna come close.

Does anyone have experience with AMVA+ and gaming?
 
N

nightmare-slain

Banned
first time building a pc. i know what parts i'm gonna get and i feel fairly confident i know how to put it together. i'm just worried i'll mess it up or something will break! it's mainly the motherboard/cpu i'm worried about.

just trying to bring myself to spend all this money. total build cost is £1020 (not including monitor/keyboard/mouse).

any tips you can share with me. something that everyone should know when building a pc?

thanks!
 
L

LilJoka

Member
blly155 said:
first time building a pc. i know what parts i'm gonna get and i feel fairly confident i know how to put it together. i'm just worried i'll mess it up or something will break! it's mainly the motherboard/cpu i'm worried about.

just trying to bring myself to spend all this money. total build cost is £1020 (not including monitor/keyboard/mouse).

any tips you can share with me. something that everyone should know when building a pc?

thanks!
Click to expand...

Give us the specs so we can help
 
L

LilJoka

Member
blly155 said:
yeah just to start off with. once i start overclocking ill buy a new cooler. kinda just buying the basics to get up and running. i will upgrade parts over time.
Click to expand...

Here's my tips assuming it's a ATX case.

Install CPU RAM and CPU Cooler onto the motherboard first.
Screw standoffs into the case.
Install the IO shield into the case
Slide motherboard in to the case and screw
Install GPU and HDDs
Put the PSU in and hook up cables

Should be a very simple build.

Tips on CPU installation:
Take note of the notches in the CPU and CPU socket. Hold the CPU from above so your fingers will align with the grooved outer sections of the CPU socket.
Lower the CPU straight down till your fingers touch the outside of the socket.
Let go and CPU will drop in to place.
If it doesn't do not slide the CPU, lift it straight up and try again.
 
P

Pinkuss

Member
Ta. I remember when I used to know all this, years out of the loop when my ex nicked my pc and having a laptop only and I've no idea what all these new parts/connectors do/go.
 
K

Kayant

Member
Jothel said:
Amazing, I'll check out Japanese Amazon along with some other sites and see how it prices out.
Thanks!
Click to expand...

You could save some money also going with an i5 4690k instead if it's mainly gaming. i7 is mainly if you're doing heavy multitasking like streaming and gaming even then an i5 with serve you well. Unless you plan on doing heavy rendering or multi-threaded tasks that will benefit from hyper-threading there isn't much difference in performance for gaming(Give or take 2-5fps) which isn't worth the $80 or so more premium.
 
Dries

Dries

Member
I'm having trouble applying Nvidia Control Panel settings (AA settings to be particular) to Dragon Age: Origins. I can put the AA toggle to 32x CSAA and it won't apply in the game itself. It still is a jaggy mess. Does anyone have any idea what the reason of this is?
 
P

paperspace

Member
I need some help identifying what component is producing coil whine (or something similar).

When playing a moderately graphic intense game (power @ ~400W) you can hear a very audible noise (probably coil whine).

I can't really identify if it's the graphic cards or the PSU. What's the easiest way to go on about this?

Specs:

i7 4790K
2x Gigabyte G1 970
Corsair RM 850W

Is it possible to remove both GPUs and somehow pull >400W?

Dries said:
I'm having trouble applying Nvidia Control Panel settings (AA settings to be particular) to Dragon Age: Origins. I can put the AA toggle to 32x CSAA and it won't apply in the game itself. It still is a jaggy mess. Does anyone have any idea what the reason of this is?
Click to expand...

You can apply SGSSAA by using the flag 0x004010C0 in Nvidia Inspector.

inspectorypubw.png
Click to expand...
 
E

espher

Member
RGM79 said:
What is the price you got it for? It shows up as $130 for me, so I don't know what to recommend you for the same price you bought it.
Click to expand...

It cost me $120, w/ a $20 MIR on top of that. So, basically, I'd entertain looking at something a little higher end if I could get a comparable (or better) discount.

In theory, I can just wait for stock, but that could cost me that MIR and another $35 from other parts, so... yeah.
 
A

Addnan

Member
I lost my freaking cmos jumper cap, wtf. Having to short it to start the PC, where can I buy one in the UK. Such a stupid thing to lose. I'm not even sure that is what it is called.
 
B

Bad_Boy

time to take my meds
Addnan said:
I lost my freaking cmos jumper cap, wtf. Having to short it to start the PC, where can I buy one in the UK. Such a stupid thing to lose. I'm not even sure that is what it is called.
Click to expand...

if you have a old hard drive or disc drive laying around, take one off that.
 
D

davidcotton

Member
ctw0e said:
I need some help identifying what component is producing coil whine (or something similar).

When playing a moderately graphic intense game (power @ ~400W) you can hear a very audible noise (probably coil whine).

I can't really identify if it's the graphic cards or the PSU. What's the easiest way to go on about this?

Specs:

i7 4790K
2x Gigabyte G1 970
Corsair RM 850W

Is it possible to remove both GPUs and somehow pull >400W?



You can apply SGSSAA by using the flag 0x004010C0 in Nvidia Inspector.
Click to expand...

Could well be your graphics card. If you do a search for gigabyte 970 coil whine you should get some answers.
 
H

hitgirl

Member
Changed some stuff up with my computer. I added a pcie wifi card that is red and matches my build and prepped the case for my arriving 980. I wanted to simplify my build a bit so I removed the rear intake and push/pull intake, then placed my h100i as a top exhaust in push with the fans. I planned to use Noctuas on the radiator but once I got them in I noticed a loud motor noise, after some tested I noticed all fans I plug into my CPU fan headers have this motor noise for some reason. The corsairs have less of it so I just went with those instead. I then moved the 140mm fans I had as exhaust and use them as an intake. Oh and a few months ago I drilled out the top right drive bay in the 350D.

Build blog - http://imgur.com/a/4B2DX

hopnlWol.jpg
 
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